Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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Figure 2.5 1470 frontpiece to Loyset Liédet’s Livre des fais d’Alexandre le grant, “Vasco de Lucena Presents Book to Charles the Bold of Burgundy” Figure 2.6 1475 Loyset Liédet and Pol Fruit’s Histoire du Charles Martel Layers and Fashion Terms Decoding Burgundian layers and levels of formality can be confusing if you’re not already familiar with the layers involved. It may help to compare the layers of a man's modern business suit to the layers in a Burgundian nobleman's formal get-up: Modern men's business wear Burgundian noble's formal attire Undershirt (optional) Shirt (not optional) Underwear (e.g. briefs or boxers) Underwear Dress shirt Doublet Dress pants Hose/hosen Suit coat Houppelande/over-gown Hat (optional, uncommon) Hat Shoes (not optional) Shoes (optional, but common) This analogy works relatively well from a formality standpoint; a fellow in a modern office may remove the jacket and tie and even roll up his sleeves, but that's decidedly less formal then wearing the full get-up, just like a Burgundian fellow may remove his overgown and belt/pouch etc. and go about in his doublet and hose to do athletic activities, but it's decidedly less formal and you wouldn’t want to wear either variation in a formal situation. The analogy does break down if you look at it from a construction standpoint; the Burgundian shirt is more similar to a modern dress shirt then to any of the other garments, while a doublet is tailored more like a suit coat. I could’ve drawn the analogy that an over-gown was like a modern overcoat but that implies something that is only 4
worn outside. Since buildings did not have modern heating systems there doesn’t seem to have been much difference between what was worn indoors and outdoors: Figure 3.1 A winter scene from a fifteenth century French Book of Hours The men in this snowball fight mostly wear the full ensemble of doublet, hose and over-gown, but the fellow in the center rolling the large snowball has stripped to his doublet, and has even unlaced his hose from the back of his doublet. 5
Page 1 and 2: Burgundian Noblemen’s Underclothe
Page 3: The Fashionable Silhouette Figure 2
Page 7 and 8: *Note, half of these pictures are n
Page 9 and 10: Figure 5.8 Ca. 1454 Master of the P
Page 11 and 12: Again, let’s start with the obvio
Page 13 and 14: Arguments for the high round neckli
Page 15 and 16: Informal wear/Middle Layer Hose/Hos
Page 17 and 18: Figure 6.11 1474-79 Hans Memling, A
Page 19 and 20: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~mar
Page 21 and 22: Figure 6.30 Late 15th-early 16th ce
Page 23 and 24: Construction-wise, if you have a se
Page 25 and 26: Figure 6.47 Mid-15th century, Franc
Page 27 and 28: Figure 7.6 Figure 7.7 Ca. 1473-5 Di
Page 29 and 30: etween the neck tie and the waist t
Page 31 and 32: 9. Most illustrations obscure the b
Page 33 and 34: Figure 7.26 late 1440s-late 1460s L
Page 35 and 36: Figure 7.41 1465 Loyset Liédet, Be
Page 37 and 38: Figures 47-56 above have no visible
Page 39 and 40: Figure 7.70 Image Copyright © I. M
Page 41 and 42: Bibliography Arnold, Janet Patterns
Page 43 and 44: Figure 4.1: I’ve lost the source
Page 45 and 46: Figure 6.41: Voronova 169. Figure 6

Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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