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Trade Show Report panies ranged from dye houses, manufacturers of blank apparel, makers of screen-printing and embroidery machines, makers of specialty inks, suppliers of embroidery thread, makers of athletic team apparel, heat-transfer appliqué makers, digital ink jet and sublimation printers, and more. The two lone dye houses on the show floor, American Dye House of Gardena, Calif., and Los Angeles Dye & Wash Co. of City of Commerce, Calif., both made their ISS debuts this season. Tom Stanton of the Los Angeles Dye & Wash Co. partnered with New York–based S&S Fashions, a maker of PFD T-shirts and fleece thermals, to be able to offer a one-two punch of blanks and wash treatments to potential customers. The partnership, Stanton said, could create a variety of new opportunities for both companies. “Together we can offer better pricing than if we were working independently. We can work with mass marketers who need 800,000 pieces or we can work with smaller, independent printers who only need 800 pieces,” he said. Joe Ryan, American Dye House’s vice president of business development, said brands are looking for ways to differentiate themselves and washes are a good way to do that. The company—which specializes in novelty washes for denim and counts Joe’s Jeans, Fidelity and Dylan George among its clients—added PDF washes to its list of services one year ago. Since then, garment dyeing has become a significant part of American Dye House’s business. At ISS American Dye House showed a handful of its latest treatments, including a mix wash that results in a double-sided crinkle look, a velvet wash that results in a subtle tie-dye effect and a half-and-half wash that creates an ombré effect. On average, each treatment costs $3 per garment, Ryan said. Blank-apparel manufacturers took the opportunity to debut their latest wares. American Apparel brought new “50/50” unisex sweat pants made of polyester/cotton, fine jersey hoodies and a tri-blend leisure shirt to the show. 10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JANUARY 29–FEBRUARY 4, 2010 NEWS Attendance Up at Texworld USA Texworld USA, the New York–based textile trade show run by Messe Frankfurt USA, saw attendance surge over last year at its Jan. 19–21 show at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Organizers said the recent show saw 20 percent more attendees than the February 2009 edition and 5 percent over the January 2008 show. (Texworld USA’s February 2009 show drew 2,031 attendees from 25 countries.) “The record attendance we achieved at last week’s edition of Texworld USA confirms that the market in the U.S.A. is coming back,” said David Audrain, president of Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt USA, a division of Germany-based Messe Frankfurt Group, which produces more than 90 trade events annually. At the January show, Austrian fiber maker Lenzing, makers of Tencel and Modal, again partnered with Texworld by hosting its Lenzing Innovation pavilion to highlight the company’s latest offerings. The fiber maker also hosted a slate of seminars covering everything from sourcing, sustainability and trends to business strategies and innova- tions in knitwear. Texworld’s lineup highlights fabric and trim resources from around the world. At the January show, Lenzing put the spotlight on domestic resources. Eight North American companies—Buhler Quality Yarns, Design Knit Inc., Fessler USA, Manoir Inc., Laguna Fabrics/Enviro Fabrics, Mansfield Textile Inc., Pacific Coast Knitting Inc. and Tuscarora Yarns—participated in the Lenzing Innovation pavilion. Show organizers have plans to expand the offerings for Texworld USA’s next show July 13–15 in New York. Messe Frankfurt USA will launch two new concurrent shows targeting sourcing executives and the home textiles market. “With the launch of our new International Ap- ISS Continued from page 1 parel Sourcing Show and Home Textiles Fabric Sourcing Expo to run alongside the July 2010 Texworld USA, we expect to bring even more qualified buyers than ever before to New York this July,” Audrain said. International Apparel Sourcing Show will be a sourcing marketplace for American manufacturers, trading companies, wholesalers, retailers, agents, designers and buying offices looking for apparel DOMESTIC SPOTLIGHT: Design Knit Inc. was one of several domestic resources featured in the Lenzing Innovation pavilion at Texworld USA. manufacturers to source finished goods or contract manufacturing. The Home Textiles Fabric Sourcing Expo will offer fabric and material sourcing for home products, such as linens, towels, pillows, window coverings and furniture. The two new shows are to be launched in partnership with the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade. CCPIT TEX, an exhibition organizer for the textile and apparel industry in China, will help bring a group of textile manufacturers from China. Messe Frankfurt will recruit companies from other textile manufacturing centers.—Alison A. Nieder Buyers at the booth focused on American Apparel’s classics, said Mark Smalley, and seemed to be upbeat. “It’s been a great show for us,” he added. Delta Apparel brought a new men’s T-shirt made in part of recycled plastic bottles and a T-shirt that features an easy fit made of 6 percent organic cotton. “People are concerned with the environment, but most aren’t willing to pay extra for eco-friendly products—especially not right now. These two options are price-efficient and provide some level of eco-friendliness,” said Gina Pepe, a sales rep with Delta Apparel. The company also added 21 new colors to its promotional price-point collection. “Before, the promotional price-point T-shirts were offered in a limited range of basic colors,” Pepe said, adding that more premium offerings had a wider range of color options. In recent seasons buyers have been opting for the lower-priced T-shirts, prompting the company to expand its color options to better serve its priceconscious customers. Pepe said the show had been busy, with plenty of walk-in traffic. “Business is picking up—especially among mass retailers and men’s [brands],” she said. The Bella booth was busy with returning clients, said Erin Talbot, a national account executive with the company. Unisex styles are a major push for the Los Angeles–based blank-apparel manufacturer in 2010. In Canvas, Bella’s men’s line, new styles include a long-sleeve T-shirt, hoodies and a new deep- V-neck T-shirt. The women’s line has a new “Yoga T-shirt” with a sportier cut, a deep-V-neck tank top with a racer back, slouchy “boyfriend” fit T-shirts with deep V-necks and added tissue-weight jersey offerings. Commerce, Calif.–based Kavio brought colorful new burnout T-shirts with sublimation prints to ISS. Dean Vuong, Kavio’s vice president, said the T-shirts—available in V-neck, crew-neck and hoodie styles—are a good option for independent stores looking for unique shirts to print on. “Everyone is looking for something unique to help set them apart,” Vuong said. ● ADDED VALUE: Exhibitors focused on giving clients added value and additional options at the Imprinted Sportswear Show in Long Beach, Calif. Trade Show Report Majors Turnout For Kingpins NY Buyers at the Kingpins denim sourcing show in New York Jan. 19–20 shopped for Spring 2010 fabrics, looking for a mix of reliable staples and inspired new fabrics. Produced by New York–based fabric agent Olah Inc., Kingpins hosts biannual shows on the East and West coasts. Kingpins generally draws a large contingent of premium-denim brands to its West Coast editions. At the Jan. 19–20 run in New York, Kingpins’ attendees included major New York retailers and wholesalers. Representatives from Banana Republic, The Gap, Madewell, J. Crew, Club Monaco, Edun, Anthropologie, Free People, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Ann Taylor and American Eagle Outfitters shopped the show’s 27 vendors. “It was a great show, our biggest ever, in fact,” said Paul Cavazos, Olah’s director of marketing, sales, research and development. Exhibitors included Japanese trading company Amhot, Vietnamese piece-dye producer Burlington, Chinese piece-dye producer Zhonge, Japanese and Chinese corduroy maker Rainbow, Guatemalan jean maker Denimatrix, and the Cone Denim, Denim North America, Kurabo, Orta and Tavex denim mills. Attendees of the show were also treated to the debut screening of a short informational film about certified FiberMax cotton and cotton farming in Texas, which was produced by Olah. Cavazos said buyers’ must-have lists included perennial favorites such as chambray and new cotton-blend fabrics. “Interesting combinations of cotton were very desirable. Cotton/Tencel mixes, cotton/viscose mixes— anything that is drapey or more technical or refined than traditional casual cotton—were of high interest,” he said. Kingpins is an invitation-only show and will land in Los Angeles Feb. 9–10 at the Smog Shoppe in Culver City, Calif. —Erin Barajas Apparel News Group 1944-2010 Sixty-six years of news, fashion and information EXECUTIVE EDITOR ALISON A. NIEDER FASHION EDITOR N. JAYNE SEWARD SENIOR EDITOR DEBORAH BELGUM RETAIL EDITOR ANDREW ASCH MANUFACTURING EDITOR ERIN BARAJAS ASSOCIATE EDITOR RHEA CORTADO EDITORIAL MANAGER JOHN IRWIN COPY EDITOR KRISTINHA ANDING WEB EDITOR CONNIE CHO WEBMASTER GREG WILKER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CINZIA BLACK CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD CLAUDIA SCHOU JAMIE SHARPE DENA SMOLEK JOSELLE YOKOGAWA CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BEN COPE VOLKER CORELL JOHN ECKMIER RICHARD KNAPP FELIX SALZMAN MICHAEL SCHMIDT JESSICA SILVERSTEIN CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR LOUISE DAMBERG DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING TERRY MARTINEZ NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER BARBARA WOO ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES DANIELLA PLATT AMY VALENCIA SALES ASSISTANT MICHELLE ANDRIZZI CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ZENNY R. KATIGBAK JEFFERY YOUNGER CLASSIFIED ACCOUNTING MARILOU DELA CRUZ SERVICE DIRECTORY ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES JUNE ESPINO LISA GROVE PRODUCTION MANAGER KENDALL IN ART DIRECTORS RANDY DUNBAR DOT WILTZER PRODUCTION ARTIST JOHN FREEMAN FISH PHOTO EDITOR JOHN URQUIZA WEB PRODUCTION ZUKE OSHIRO CONTROLLER JIM PATEL CREDIT MANAGER RITA O’CONNOR PUBLISHER/ GENERAL MANAGER MOLLY RHODES MNM PUBLISHING CORP.: CO-CEOS TERI FELLMAN CARL WERNICKE PUBLISHER/CHAIRMAN/CEO MARTIN WERNICKE 1922-2000 PUBLISHED BY MNM PUBLISHING CORP. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News Waterwear Jr. EXECUTIVE OFFICE LOS ANGELES: California Market Center 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 �� Fax (213) 623-5707 Classified Advertising Fax (213) 623-1515 www.apparelnews.net webmaster@apparelnews.net PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
The STAR show debuted Jan. 26–28 with an eclectic mix that included juniors and young contemporary merchandise, as well as menswear, eveningwear, embellished tees and denim. Show organizers Greentide FT Corp. positioned the new apparel trade show to be a local option for apparel manufacturers and retailers. The show, held at the Los Angeles Convention Center, had a quiet debut, earning mixed reviews from exhibitors. Some said traffic was slow overall, while others said they were pleased with the caliber of retailers shopping the show, including larger discount chains; d.d.’s Discounts, a division of Ross Stores; AJWright, a division of The TJX Companies Inc.; and smaller boutiques. One of the busier booths at the show was New York– based Denim Group Ltd., whose labels include Paco Jeans, Vintage Brass, O.V. and 96North. National Sales Manager Sal Matari said the 22-yearold company was a long-time exhibitor at MAGIC but has opted in recent years to concentrate on regional shows, including Urban Suburban in San Francisco, Atlanta Apparel Exhibition Group’s Cobb Show in Atlanta and the Market at the Miami International Merchandise Mart in Miami. “I wasn’t expecting much [at the STAR show], but I’m pretty satisfied,” Matari said, adding, “We just had a retailer from Las Vegas with six doors.” The collections, which are produced primarily in China and Pakistan, sell to majors and the “mom-and-pop” stores. Matari said he’s seen business pick up a bit on the East Coast since the beginning of the year. “People have to stock their stores,” he said. And “since we started taking credit cards, we’ve upped our business,” he added. There were several new brands at the show, including Grace in L.A., a juniors embellished denim collection that launched in June. Some say the mood is always sunny at Outdoor Retailer, the biannual trade show held at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City. But at the recent Jan. 21– 24 run of the show’s Winter Market, exhibitors said the mood was a bit brighter than last year. “In my opinion, from the Patagonia booth, the show was buzzing the entire time,” said Jess Clayton, a spokesperson for Ventura, Calif.–based Patagonia. “I got the sense that companies have really honed in and focused on providing top-quality products that consumers need. A lot of the ‘riffraff’ seems to have gone away, most likely as a result of the 2009 recession.” Patagonia introduced several new items, including organic denim for women. The jeans come in two rises—low and regular— and are available in three washes: dark, medium and light gray. The company also introduced two dress styles, the “Au Bateau Dress” and the “Fortuity Flannel Dress,” for Fall 2010 at the show. Bill Inman, apparel business director for Rockford, Mich.–based Merrell, agreed that the mood at the show was lighter. “People seemed more optimistic,” he said. “My sense is people are looking for points of differentiation and also strong brands and a lot of value for the consumer at all price points.” Merrell introduced a new insulated jacket that can be folded into a travel neck pillow. Dubbed the “Guise” for men and the “Charade” for women, the style packs into its front pocket to form the pillow. The lining is made from PrimaLoft Eco, a mix of PrimaLoft fibers and recycled materials. Similarly, Merrell’s “Tri-Therm” jackets feature a soft shell and a removable down liner that can each be worn separately. The company also expanded its offers in its Ionic fabric, a poly/spandex blend that feels like cotton but performs like a synthetic. Focus on fair trade Matt Reynolds, co-founder of Indigenous, based in Santa Rosa, Calif., described the show—and the outdoor industry, in general—as “optimistic and fairly positive.” “The outdoor customer is hanging in there,” he said. “We had some of the best sell-throughs we ever had on Fall ’09 across the board.” In addition to outdoor stores—including Great Outdoors Provision Co., The Sports Den, Telluride Trappings & Toggery and REI—Reynolds said the show drew catalog retailers such as Sundance and resort stores—“which are perfect for us,” he said. “Even though we’re more of a contemporary fashion line, we have a special niche [at Outdoor Retailer],” said Rey nolds, who founded Indigenous with Scott Leonard in NEWS Trade Show Report STAR Show Bows With Broad Mix at the L.A. Convention Center Trade Show Report ECLECTIC SELECTION: The STAR show featured everything from young contemporary and menswear to eveningwear and embellished tees, including Los Angeles–based line I Love Marilyn. Mood Upbeat at Outdoor Retailer TRAVEL PACK: Merrell’s “Guise” insulated jacket folds into its front pocket to form a travel neck pillow. The company has already showed the collection in Dallas, Chicago, New York and Florida and plans to show at the MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas this February, according to sales representative Sue Tan. “My main purpose to come here is to catch out-of-state customers,” Tan said, adding that she primarily had seen locals at STAR. Another new company was Lovposh, which launched in October. Geared to the boutique customer, the Los Angeles–based young contemporary brand features tops, dresses and jumpers produced in China. “It’s very slow,” said co-owner Richard Lee. “We definitely made contacts, so it’s not a total loss. But I’ve been to other shows and it’s four to 10 times this capacity.” Lee said he didn’t mind the size of the show or the broad mix of merchandise but said he thought organizers should market the show to a broader range of retailers. “The No. 1 thing is to expand the customer base,” he said. “It seems the focus was on Asian retailers.” Another new brand was Hello Miss, a juniors collection featuring prints and bright colors. The Los Angeles–based label was founded about a year ago by parent company CB Pacific Trading Inc., which manufactures apparel and operates stores in Arizona. The show also featured several sublimation-print collections, including Miss Pinky, a 10-year-old company based in Los Angeles. The company has its own printing factory and produces everything in Los Angeles, according to Sales Manager Mike Jung, who said the target market is women in their 20s to early 30s looking for fashion items. Jung said the company had just shown the collection at the Intermoda show in Guadalajara, Mexico, and would be showing next month in Las Vegas. Miss Pinky also exhibits at trade shows in Atlanta, Chicago, Florida and New York.—Alison A. Nieder 1995. “We were birthed in the outdoor industry 15 years ago.” The company was founded with a commitment to fair trade and environmentally friendly materials and practices. Indigenous’ collection features hand-made sweaters and hand-knit accessories, all made by a team of artisans working in knitting cooperatives in Central and South America. The line also includes jersey pieces made by a small family-run operation using fair-trade practices. At Indigenous, retailers were looking for specialty pieces, as well as basics with contemporary style and accessories, Reynolds said. “The difference between Outdoor Retailer and other shows is the buyers book appointments at OR if you do your work ahead of time. We booked more appointments CHECKING AT RETAIL: Retailers were looking for accessories, basics with contemporary styling and specialty pieces, such as hand-knit sweaters, at Indigenous. FOR THE GIRLS: Patagonia introduced new dress styles “Au Bateau” (right) and “Fortuity Flannel” (left), as well as organic-cotton denim for women (middle) in a range of fits and washes. than last time, so we were very busy.” Reynolds had an especially busy schedule this show. A chance meeting with director Greg Reitman at the show led to a trip to nearby Park City for the Sundance Film Festival, where Reitman interviewed Reynolds for a film called “On the Green Carpet.” Reynolds said he and Reitman hit it off and soon discovered common ground between Indigenous’ focus on fair-trade practices and organic materials and the director’s “message about people needing to be more mindful of their purchases … and how we can make a difference through ac- cepting differences of others.” —A.A.N. JANUARY 29–FEBRUARY 4, 2010 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 11
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