Shape_Malaysia__June_2017

Beauty Playbook
T
There’s a revolution taking place in the beauty world. Driven by science, the pros are
Tpioneering new formulas that are causing real—even amazing—changes to your
Tcomplexion at the molecular level. These breakthroughs, from a next-level vitamin
TC to microencapsulated particles that release inside your skin, are shielding your
Tcells from what ages them, successfully nourishing and hydrating the epidermis, and
Tpromoting the collagen production you need to look smoother and firmer. Here,
Tthe ingredients to know, and how to take full advantage of their power.
The alpha vitamin
Vitamin C is one of only two molecules
(Vitamin A is the other) to make it past
your skin’s upper layers and get inside
collagen-making cells . “Your cells are
naturally equipped with vitamin C, so
their transporters recognize it and
actually draw it in toward the nucleus,
which is really stunning,” says Ben
Fuchs, a cosmetic chemist in Boulder,
Colorado. Vitamin C’s effect on the
skin is pretty stunning too: “When
this vitamin gets into these cells, the
production of collagen—which is
what makes skin firm—increases up
to eightfold,” says Neal Schultz, M.D.,
a dermatologist in New York City. “It
also reduces the formation of melanin,
the pigment that produces age spots,
and protects against free radical
damage.” The thing is, regular vitamin
C is water-soluble and notoriously
unstable; it stops working before
it enters the cell . A new form, called
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, is more
stable and oil-soluble, so it’s much
easier for the skin to absorb. You’ll
find it in Cover FX Custom Infusion
Radiance Drop – Radiance (RM229)
and First Aid Beauty 5 in 1 Bouncy
Mask (RM182).
Powerhouse
botanicals
Natural extracts (from plants, herbs,
and flowers) have centuries’ worth
of proof that they work as potent
antioxidants and hydrators , but
a new innovation makes them even
more effective. “A process called
microencapsulation wraps each
botanical particle in a protective shell,
which helps protect the ingredient
from degrading and controls its release
until it has made its way into your
skin,” says Dendy Engelman, M.D.,
a derm in NYC. Think of them as teeny,
tiny pills inside your serum or cream.
(Get the technology in Origins Make
A Difference Plus+ Rejuvenating
Treatment (RM220). Of course, you
don’t want all your skin care to sink
into skin. On the surface, humectants
help to stop water from escaping,
while antioxidants can fight off
environmental aggressors. Royal jelly,
which comes from honey bees, is both
(find it in Burt’s Bees Intense Hydration
Day Lotion (RM147).
Moisture magnet
When hyaluronic acid (often referred
to as HA) comes into contact with
your skin, it absorbs 1,000 times its
own weight in water, doing wonders
for hydration. That’s critical, but more
fascinating is that “when HA levels
increase, the collagen in our skin
thrives,” says Sherry Ingraham, M.D.,
a dermatologist in Houston. “Hyaluronic
acid nourishes the collagen and elastin
fibers that plump and firm our skin,” and
that pumping becomes more important
as we age. In our 20s, our bodies begin
to produce less HA, and the decline
accelerates in our 40s, Dr. Ingraham
says. Annoyingly, the level of an enzyme
that breaks down HA stays the same,
while inflammation and UV damage are
causing it to degrade. You can inject
HA into the skin (that’s what fillers
like Juvéderm are made of) or apply it
topically. Try Neutrogena Hydro Boost
Hydrating Essence (RM84.70) or Estelle
& Thild Biohydrate Thirst Relief Serum
(RM189).
SUPERIOR SUDS Special molecules in micellar cleansers have oily tails that gently wick makeup
off the skin, unlike harsh surfactants, which can leave you dry. Try Garnier SkinActive Micellar
Cleansing Water (RM14.50) or Simple Micellar Cleansing Water (RM22.90).
SHAPE.COM.MY JUNE 2017 31