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still hope one day to find just one person with Neanderthal DNA. It is a vanishing hope as more<br />

and more DNA is tested from around the world. But could I recognize it if I found it, whether<br />

around Tregaron or Cardiff, or London or California? The answer is definitely yes – so long as it is<br />

mitochondrial DNA.<br />

I had once attempted, but failed, to recover Neanderthal DNA from the Tabun skull from the<br />

Natural History Museum in London. The Tabun skull was dated to 100,000 years ago and the teeth<br />

looked in fairly good shape. But when I tried to drill into a molar tooth, it was rock hard and I was<br />

terrified it would fracture. I did get a little dentine powder from the inside, but I did not smell the<br />

reassuring scent of burning flesh, the smell that meant success. However, I did manage to recover a<br />

few molecules of DNA from the Tabun tooth. When I put them through the DNA analyser, the<br />

mDNA sequences looked distinctly modern, with their closest matches in Israel, where the skull<br />

had been excavated. The big debate at the time, in the early 1990s, was whether Neanderthals were<br />

an extinct species of human, in which case their DNA should be very different from ours, or<br />

whether they were just a phase in the evolution of modern humans, in which case the DNA should<br />

be reasonably similar. I never felt confident enough about proclaiming that the modern-looking<br />

DNA that I had recovered from the Tabun skull was really from the skull, rather than from the<br />

archaeologists and museum curators who had handled it over the fifty years since it was excavated.<br />

I am glad I was cautious, because two years later what did appear to be genuinely ancient DNA<br />

was recovered from the Neanderthal-type specimen, the original one that had been found in the<br />

Neander Valley in Germany (Tal is valley in German) in 1863. This DNA was very different from<br />

any modern DNA. It had 27 mutations in comparison to the mitochondrial reference sequence,<br />

while even the most distinct modern DNA only varies from the reference by 12 changes. When<br />

similar DNA was found in two further Neanderthal remains, from Croatia and the Caucasus<br />

mountains, it provided reasonable proof that Neanderthals were indeed an extinct species of<br />

human. The last Neanderthal died in southern Spain about 27,000 years ago; at least that is where<br />

the most recently dated remains have been found. But that was before the world knew about the<br />

Tregaron twins!<br />

The brothers had passed away in the 1980s, so another trip up the track into the hills would be<br />

pointless. Since they were men, and bachelors at that, their mitochondrial DNA could not have<br />

been passed on to their children, even if they had any. And neither the man at the Talbot Inn, nor<br />

anyone else I spoke to in Tregaron, knew where the brothers had come from, so I could not track<br />

down a relative. The only chance was that, among the smiling children at the local school, there<br />

was one who, through maternal connections, would carry the tell-tale Neanderthal DNA. There<br />

was a lot to look out for in Wales.<br />

Examining first the matrilineal DNA from Wales, the living record of the journeys of women to<br />

this part of the Isles, the pattern of maternal clans is very similar to Ireland, and to what we have<br />

also seen in the two Pictland regions of Scotland, Tayside and Grampian. The clan of Helena<br />

predominates, as always, with 47 per cent of people in both regions belonging to that clan. When<br />

Ireland is compared to the whole of Wales, this close similarity extends to the other clans as well.<br />

When I divided Wales into three regions, north, mid- and south Wales, a few differences did<br />

emerge, mostly ones that showed a closer genetic link between north and mid-Wales than either did<br />

to the south of the country. But the overall pattern was one of continuity with Ireland and, to a<br />

lesser extent, with the Pictland regions of Scotland. But, unfortunately, there was no sign of any

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