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At about that time, the sex gene on the Y-chromosome switches on. This sends a signal to a whole<br />

series of other genes situated on other chromosomes, which, between them, actively divert<br />

embryonic development away from female and towards male. Embryos that don’t have a Y-<br />

chromosome just carry on along the normal female development pathway and are born girls. The<br />

X-chromosome has nothing to do with it. Men truly are genetically modified women.<br />

This mechanism for deciding sex which humans have inherited from their distant mammalian<br />

ancestors creates the second of our guides to our genetic origins. Men carry both an X- and a Y-<br />

chromosome in all of their cells – except mature sperm. Sperm occur in two different genetic<br />

forms, indistinguishable under the microscope and in their swimming capabilities. Stem cells in the<br />

male testis are dividing furiously to keep up the supply of sperm and like the other cells in the body<br />

have the XY combination of sex chromosomes. At the final division, the cell divides one last time<br />

but the resulting sperm only get one of the sex chromosomes, not both. Half the sperm receive an X-<br />

chromosome from this division while the other half get a Y-chromosome. The sex of the child<br />

entirely depends on which sort of sperm wins the race to the egg. If it’s got an X-chromosome then<br />

the egg, which already has one X-chromosome, becomes XX after fertilization, develops as a<br />

female embryo and is born a girl. If, on the other hand, the winning sperm contains a Y-<br />

chromosome, the fertilized egg becomes XY and develops into a boy. The simple conclusion is<br />

this: Y-chromosomes get passed down the male line from father to son.<br />

Looking backwards, if you are a man, you got your Y-chromosome from your father, who got it<br />

from his father. Who got it from his father. Sounds familiar? It is the mirror image of the inheritance<br />

pattern for mitochondrial DNA. The Y-chromosome is the perfect complement to mDNA, telling<br />

the history of men. But does it have enough genetic variability to be practically useful? It took a<br />

very long time to find any mutations at all on the Y-chromosome. For those scientists involved, and<br />

thankfully I wasn’t one of them, it was a frustrating few years. In one of the first studies looking for<br />

diversity among human Y-chromosomes, 14,000 bases were sequenced from twelve men from<br />

widely scattered geographical localities. Only a single mutation was discovered. Another lab<br />

sequenced the same 700-base segment from the Y-chromosomes of thirty-eight different men and<br />

didn’t find a single mutation in any of them. At long last, and helped by an ingenious technique for<br />

finding the elusive mutations, the Y-chromosome began to show its genetic jewels. Slowly, slowly,<br />

mutations that had changed one DNA base to another were teased out of the otherwise barren desert<br />

of uniformity.<br />

With these two pieces of DNA we have the perfect companions for our exploration of the<br />

genetic past. One follows the female line, the other tracks the male genealogy. What could be<br />

better? They had been my guides in Polynesia and in Europe and I knew them well. Among their<br />

many qualities is that they both group people into clans. When my colleagues and I had been trying<br />

to make sense of the mDNA results from Europe in the early 1990s, we noticed that the 800 or so<br />

samples from volunteers from all over Europe fell into seven quite distinct groups based on their<br />

mDNA sequences.<br />

Unlike the chromosomes in the cell nucleus, which are straightforward linear strings of DNA,<br />

mitochondrial DNA is formed into a circle, which is a hangover from when the mitochondria<br />

themselves were free-living bacteria. The human mitochondrial DNA circle is exactly 16,589 DNA<br />

bases in length, but fortunately it is unnecessary to read the entire sequence. Most of the<br />

mitochondrial DNA circle is taken up with genes that code for the enzymes involved in aerobic

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