OnTrak Summer 2018

SUMMER
2018
WEEKENDER
RICHMOND, BC
ART
LUMMI ISLAND’S SCULPTURE WOODS
GETAWAYS
WITHOUT THE CROWDS
The pnw’s
BEST
BIKING
TAKE US
WITH YOU
Compliments of
Amtrak Cascades ®
PICTURED
HERE:
Burke-Gilman
trail in Seattle
R
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades route

OUTDOORS
Trappers Peak, North Cascades National Park
50TH ANNIVERSARY OF NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK
CRAFT BREWERIES | ADVENTURES BY LAND AND SEA
Community Boating Center
Spark Museum

Features
SUMMER 2018
46
Top Places to Get Away
Escape the crowds this summer
with trips to these far-flung locales.
written by Kevin Max
40
Biking in the PNW
This region loves bikes—from fixies
to mountain bikes, and everything in
between. We take a look at some of the
best destinations for bike rides.
written by Beau Eastes
52
Higher Ground
TreeHouse Point in Washington is a
grown-up getaway for those of us who
still want to sleep among the treetops.
photography by Cameron Zegers
Stehekin Valley Ranch
2 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Meet me in centralia
Explore in 360
Downtowncentralia.org

SUMMER 2018
Departments
INTRO
6 Letter
8 Contributors
10 Digital
Weekender: Richmond BC
pg. 32
BUSINESS
12 Green Biz
Portland’s Green Drop Garage is
trying to make Oregon go green,
one oil change at a time.
14
Q&A
A professor and his students
try to grow morel mushrooms
indoors—just for the challenge.
CULTURE
18 Art
On Lummi Island, the Sculpture
Woods beckon.
20 Music
Haley Heynderickx takes on
the Portland music scene with a
delicate, distinctive voice.
22 Chef Spotlight
Melissa McMillan started
Sammich in Ashland amid
turmoil. Today she’s expanding
the brand.
24 Event Calendar
Plan your travel around our
calendar of music, art, theater,
film, sports and festivals.
Biryani from Ember Indian Kitchen.
OUTDOORS
28 Athlete
Cole Paton may be 20 years old, but he’s a
pro cyclist pedaling toward stardom.
30 Notes from the Adventure
Grab your frisbees and head out to these
five picks for the best disc golf courses on
the I-5 corridor.
32
36
67
Richmond, BC
Richmond is more than the airport—get ready
for Asian delicacies and plenty of history.
Lake Oswego
This Portland suburb is all about art. It’s not
a bad stop for shopping and dining, either.
Exposure
Submit a photo for a chance to win
the photo contest.
EXPLORE GUIDE
Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop
58
Oregon
61 Washington
64 Vancouver
68 Route Maps
71 Special Deals
on Amtrak Cascades
72 Parting Shot
ON THE COVER: Cyclists on the Burke-Gilman trail in Seattle (see pg. 40). PHOTO BY JAMES HARNOIS
4 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Seattle Downtown Pioneer Square
EMBASSY SUITES
NOW OPEN
Proud Hotel Partner of the Seattle Seahawks
P
282 SUITES INCLUDING 5 VEGAS-STYLE PENTHOUSE SUITES
7,224 SQ. FT. BALLROOM AND OUTDOOR WEDDING DECK
12,072 SQ. FT. MEETING SPACE
SPECTACULAR CITY AND PUGET SOUND VIEWS
LARGE ATHLETIC FACILITY WITH SWIMMING POOL
HOME OF ICONIC 13 COINS 24-HOUR DINING
ADJACENT TO LIGHT RAIL AND KING STREET STATION
FOR BOOKING INFORMATION
CONTACT SEAPS-SALESADM@HILTON.COM OR 206-859-4400

A Note from Us
WE’VE UNPACKED OUR flip-flops and dusted off
our lawn chairs because—hooray!—it is festival season
in the Pacific Northwest.
From Seattle to Eugene, put your ear to the glass
and see if you can hear from the comfort of your club
chair all the events happening along our route. Towns
in Washington and Oregon are abuzz with music,
food, art, celebration and adventure.
In Oregon, we invite you to come and get your art
on at the Salem Art Fair & Festival, the largest of its
kind in our state. The fair features more than 200 artists,
live music, theater and dance on two stages, two
craft beer and wine gardens, more than twenty food
booths, plus a Kids’ Court with art activities for the
whole family—July 20-22, Bush’s Pasture Park, Salem.
Is it true that gentlemen and ladies prefer blondes?
Or maybe it’s Belgians, sours or pilsners. We can’t
decide. But YOU can when you hop (get it?) on the
train for Oregon’s biggest beer celebration. The Oregon
Brewers Festival marks thirty-one years of craft
brewing with more than 170 beers on tap—July 26-29,
at Tom McCall Waterfront Park, Portland.
Albany is famous for historic buildings—the most
varied collection of architectural styles in Oregon.
More than 700 historic buildings date from the 1840s
to the 1920s, and they’re all concentrated within 100
square blocks. The Albany Summer Historic Homes
Tour, July 28, includes trolley and horse-drawn wagon
rides. (Of course, we’re partial to the train.)
Finally, with fourteen concerts plus music talks,
films and events (including a jazz party, a golden-age
musical comedy, and community singalongs), the
Oregon Festival of American Music assembles musicians,
vocalists and scholars to celebrate the Great
American Songbook. From the Gershwins to Cole
Porter, Judy Garland and Barbra Streisand, we’ll have
you crooning into next year—Aug. 1-12 in Eugene.
You’ll find all these events within flip-flop distance
of our Amtrak Cascades station stops, so come on
down to the Oregon side and visit a while. We’ll dust
a chair off for you.
Cheers!
Michelle Godfrey
Education & Outreach Coordinator
Oregon Department of Transportation
6 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

enjoy
relax
The Smart Way to Travel
sip
Avoid gridlock and traffi c delays along the I-5 corridor on Amtrak Cascades. Relax,
sip Northwest wine, enjoy the scenery or use our free wi-fi while you cruise down the
tracks. Amtrak Cascades offers daily service between Vancouver BC and Eugene, with
convenient stops in Seattle, Portland and 14 other cities. Amtrak Cascades is the smart
and fun way to travel.
www.AmtrakCascades.com
surf
Save 25% with 14-day advance purchase | Children – 50% off
Restrictions Apply.
September 22, 2018
autumn
moon
festival
celebrating one of China’s most important cultural festivals
sponsored in part by
featuring expanded admission hours to Lan Su Chinese Garden | 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
and a free night market next door with performances, activities and vendors | 3-9 p.m.
www.lansugarden.org/autumnmoon

Contributors
SUMMER 2018
Lauren Kramer
Writer—Artist
(pg. 18)
A longtime resident of the
Pacific Northwest, I have a
special affinity for Lummi
Island and loved the
opportunity to showcase
one of its gems when I
wrote about the Sculpture
Woods. This quiet corner
of the island constitutes
a perfect outdoor gallery
for artistic expression, and
the sculptures are both
haunting and poignant.
Shauna Intelisano
Photographer—Green Biz
(pg. 12)
Farhad Ghafarzade, owner
and founder of Green
Drop Garage, inspired
me with his sensible and
innovative ways of creating
solutions. He told me he
built a rain catcher to solve
the problem of the water
splashing out of the gutters.
It impressed me to learn
how connected the garage
is with the community.
Sheila G. Miller
Writer—Weekender:
Lake Oswego, OR
(pg. 36)
Growing up in Beaverton,
I thought of Lake Oswego
as a fancy enclave for the
wealthy. Then I realized I’d
never really spent any time
there. So I took a weekend
to explore the ins and outs
of Lake Oswego, and I’m so
glad I did—its dedication
to public art, excellent
food and family-friendly
community living make it a
worthwhile destination.
Austin White
Photographer—Weekender:
Lake Oswego, OR
(pg. 36)
I had never been to Lake
Oswego before, so I was
excited to explore a new
area when I was assigned
the shoot. I was fortunate
enough to get into town
on a sunny, clear day and
the spring blossoming was
in full effect. I’m totally a
sucker for a good burger
and beer. The Lake Theater
and Cafe and Stickmen
Brewing had a great
selection of both, so I will
make them a regular stop
when I’m in town again!
8 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades ® route
Editor - Kevin Max
Managing Editor - Sheila G. Miller
Creative - Allison Bye
Marketing + Digital Manager - Kelly Rogers
Office Manager - Cindy Miskowiec
Director of Sales - Jenny Kamprath
Advertising Account Executives -
Cindy Guthrie, Jenn Redd
Contributing Writers - Beau Eastes, Lauren Kramer,
Ben Salmon, Arlo Vorhees, Chad Walsh
Contributing Photographers - Talia Jean Galvin, James Harnois,
Shauna Intelisano, Austin White, Cameron Zegers
statehoodmedia.com
facebook.com/AmtrakCascades
@Amtrak_Cascades
facebook.com/OnTrakMag
@OnTrakMag
PUBLISHED BY
Statehood Media, LLC
70 SW Century Drive, Suite 100-218
Bend, Oregon 97702
541•728•2764
Printed in Canada
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information
storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media.
Articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without
the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and Statehood Media are not responsible
for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles
are not necessarily those of Statehood Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 9

Digital Experience
SUMMER 2018
EXTENDED GALLERY
Portland’s Green Drop Garage
Shauna Intelisano
MOBILE
Follow us on facebook:
facebook.com/OnTrakMag
facebook.com/AmtrakCascades
Follow us on twitter:
@OnTrakMag
@Amtrak_Cascades
Follow us on instagram:
@OnTrakMag
EXPOSURE PHOTO CONTEST
What Does Your
PNW Look Like?
The Green Drop Garage is trying to save the environment, one oil change at a time. See
more photos from Green Drop at ontrakmag.com/greendropgarage
DEALS
SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE!
Want more Oregon and Washington?
Subscribe to 1859 and 1889 magazines and
discover the best the PNW has to offer.
Subscribe now and get a year’s subscription
to either 1859 or 1889 for only $9.95!
1859oregonmagazine.com/ontrak
1889mag.com/ontrak
Photo by Susan Carlson
Send us a photo that represents
your experience of the Pacific
Northwest. You’ll have a chance
to be published on the Exposure
page of this magazine.
Submit your photo to:
ontrakmag.com/exposure
ontrakmag.com
10 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Seattle Seaplane Tours
Whale Watching • Volcano Tours
Fly off the water on a Seattle Scenic tour, take a
1-day whale watching trip in the San Juan Islands,
or fly around Mount St. Helens & Mount Rainier
KenmoreAir.com • 866.435.9524
C
M
Seattle Scenic Tour & Whale Watching depart daily from Lake Union • Volcano Tour departs Saturdays from Boeing Field

Business
12. Green Biz | 14. Q&A
Green Drop Garage offers
maintenance memberships to
keep cars on the road longer.
Can an Oil Change
Change the World?
Green Drop Garage helps customers go green
WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHAUNA INTELISANO
FARHAD GHAFARZADE IS HELPING Oregon go
green, one oil change at a time.
Ghafarzade grew up in the Portland area, then got
a degree from University of California, Santa Cruz
in molecular biology. While considering dental
school, he took a year off and started helping
others convert cars to run on vegetable oil.
12 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

FROM LEFT Farhad Ghafarzade, center, is the owner and founder of Green Drop Garage.
At Green Drop, rain is captured, oil is stored in large barrels to reduce single-use
plastic bottles, and guests are offered kombucha, loaner bikes, car fresheners scented
with essential oils and company swag.
After posting an ad on Craiglist, people started contacting
him to do the conversions. That included a mechanic who
wanted to work with him, not just on conversions but on
other services, too. Dental school never came—Green Drop
Garage did, complete with car care classes in the evening.
“Growing up in Portland and going to school in Santa
Cruz, that’s just kind of what you do. You recycle,” he said.
“It’s just something that we should do. … It’s an imperative of
how I grew up. It’s that environmental aspect of doing what
you can to make it better.”
Green Drop Garage opened in 2009, when Ghafarzade
was 26. Since then, the number of vegetable oil car conversions
has slowed significantly. Today Green Drop Garage
has two locations in Southeast Portland, and the garage is as
eco-friendly as possible—using rerefined motor oil (85 percent
more efficient to use than virgin petroleum) and low-
VOC solvents. Ghafarzade doesn’t stop there—the company
harvests its rain water for use in fluids, recycles, and buys
wind power to be carbon neutral. As a result, the company
is a certified B corporation. The City of Portland named it a
gold-standard company through its Sustainability at Work
program, and the Oregon Department of Environmental
Quality named it an ecologically progressive shop.
Ghafarzade said some customers are drawn to the
eco-friendly brand, but he compares it to New Seasons
shoppers—some go because of the environmentally friendly
aspect, but most go because it’s a good place to shop. “Most
people aren’t dogmatic about the environment,” he said. “If it
fits their needs, they’ll do it. If it costs too much, they don’t
do it.”
The garage offers all traditional repairs and maintenance
(and on-tap kombucha—this is Portland, after all), and has
recently begun offering membership plans.
“The traditional model of car repair is you get someone in
on a loss leader like an oil change, then upsell them on what
they might or might not need,” Ghafarzade said. “Car care
shouldn’t be discretionary. You should get what you need.”
With that in mind, he created a $15 a month maintenance
membership that covers oil change, air filter, bulbs, tire rotations,
diagnostics, the usual stuff. He said he has thousands
of clients who take part in the plan. Next up, Ghafarzade is
planning a $99 a month plan that will cover any maintenance
and repair. “Instead of selling car repair, we’re selling peace
of mind,” he said. Plus, he said, it’s also good for the environment,
because if you take proper care of your car, it will stay
on the road longer.
Every small step helps, Ghafarzade said.
“Vegetable oil conversion is a home run that’s eco-friendly.
But you have to conform to a specific way of living,” he said.
“Or we can use rerefined motor oil and we’ll make you 5 or
10 percent more eco-friendly. It’s singles and doubles that
win the game, not the homeruns.”
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 13

Jakob Dewald and Patrick Morales
gather morels in the woods
near Eastern Oregon University.
A SIT DOWN Q A
Magic
Mushrooms
OSU students seek an
indoor source of morels
INTERVIEW BY SHEILA G. MILLER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TALIA JEAN GALVIN
LAST FALL, Oregon State University
crops science instructor Austin Hawks,
based at Eastern Oregon University in
La Grande, introduced two students, and
an exciting project was born. One, Jakob
Dewald, is from Hawaii and dreamed of
moving home and growing hard-to-raise
crops in greenhouses. The other, Patrick
Morales, was interested in growing “nontraditional”
crops. “I said, “Patrick, meet
Jakob. Jakob, meet Patrick. What kind of
crazy ideas do you have?”
Since then the pair, with Hawks’ guidance,
has set out to grow morel mushrooms
in the lab. It just might work.
How rare is this, and why?
We started looking at different ideas, and really, growing
a morel mushroom outdoors can be done, and it is
done. You can cultivate them—it’s all over the Internet,
on YouTube. But the kicker is, can we cultivate them indoors?
There are strict requirements that are going to
need to be met if we grow them indoors.
We knew very little about morels. We know we like
them and they taste great, and that’s all we know. An interesting
thing about the morel is everybody searches so
long and hard for it, so we thought the mycelium would
be very passive. What we’re seeing in the culture is that
it’s so rapidly growing, I would use the word aggressive.
Why is cultivating outdoors different from
cultivating indoors?
Outdoors there are a lot of climate conditions
and seasonal fluctuation that may go on with morels.
So you mimic those indoors—we’re trying to
14 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

3 WAYS TO DISCOVER SEATTLE
CHINATOWN-
INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT
The Tech Academy is a 20-week Software Developer Boot
Camp where students learn to code through real-world,
hands-on training in classrooms located in Portland, Seattle,
or online from anywhere in the world!
WHY ATTEND THE TECH ACADEMY?
• Online or in-person training
• Open enrollment — start anytime
• Several in-demand languages
• Self-paced, flexible scheduling
• Comprehensive curriculum
• Job placement training
LEARNCODINGANYWHERE.COM
INFO@LEARNCODINGANYWHERE.COM · (503) 206-6915
Steps from Amtrak's King St Station
RELIVE HISTORY
immersive exhibits and living
quarters of early Asian immigrants
TASTE LOCAL FLAVORS
popular tours featuring dumplings,
noodles, BBQ and more
GET TO KNOW BRUCE LEE
retrace his local roots before
he became famous
EXPERIENCE THE BEST
OF DOWNTOWN PORTLAND
NEWLY RENOVATED
GUESTROOMS!
VISIT HOTELMODERA.COM TODAY TO FIND THE BEST DEALS
wingluke.org

“These two students are getting to
test an idea—they’re saying, ‘Let’s
try this.’ They’re activating a portion
of their brain that says, ‘You need to
think. It’s good to think.’ They’ll be
thinkers for the rest of their lives.”
— Austin Hawks, Oregon State University
crops science instructor
find that pattern indoors of what exactly caused that to
fruit. It really matters. Mycelium is the root of the mushroom.
It’s what attaches to the organic matter in the soil
and gets energy from leaf matter, old sticks, old wood,
the nutrients in the soil. What we care about with mushrooms
is the fruiting body, that’s what we pick. What’s
given us some excitement is to watch how aggressive
that mycelium is. It fills the petri dish in maybe two days,
maybe faster. I mean, you’ve got to be kidding me!
What’s the ultimate goal of this project?
Our plan is hopefully to keep the spores we’ve collected,
and then in the fall these students will be here—fall,
winter and spring—and we’re going to shoot for fruiting.
Once we fruit them, we’ll have morels. And then we’ll
enjoy them!
FROM TOP Students label petri dishes in the lab. Austin Hawks, a crops science
instructor, is helping students grow morels indoors.
Who does this project benefit?
It could benefit the chefs—where right now we have
morels available at a certain time, we could control
when they’d be available. I do understand that the supply-and-demand
curve would change—this rare crop
would not be rare anymore, and I understand and respect
that. The biggest thing I think this does is it continues
and advances the learning model forward. A student
comes up with an idea and tests it. It’s been done for centuries.
I teach for a career, and I enjoy the student interactions
and to test hypotheses and push ideas forward.
That’s a big thing I will always do.
These two students are getting to test an idea—they’re
saying, ‘Let’s try this.’ They’re activating a portion of
their brain that says, ‘You need to think. It’s good to
think.’ They’ll be thinkers for the rest of their lives. I
think we’re a little crazy, but at the same time, we’ve had
really good success, so I guess we’re not that crazy. Plus,
we’re having fun.
16 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Beautifully Updated Throughout
Awarded No.14
out of 100 Best
in Oregon!
Bandon Inn
Complimentary
transportation to all
your favorite local
courses! Includes local
airport transportation.
355 HIGHWAY 101, BANDON, OR 97411 | 1.800.526.0209 | WWW.BANDONINN.COM
Oregon’s Premier Jet Boat Tour
Reserve your Rogue River
adventure today!
Code: ontrak
Tours May 1st thru October 15th!
Open Daily
800-451-3645 • RogueJets.com Year-Round
Southern Oregon Coast in Gold Beach on Hwy. 101

Culture
18. Art | 20. Musician
22. Chef Spotlight | 24. Events
Artist
An Outdoor Gallery of
MYSTERIES
Ann Morris’s hidden Sculpture Woods
WRITTEN BY LAUREN KRAMER
ON A WINDSWEPT BLUFF overlooking Rosario Strait
sits a creative retreat where tall hemlock and Douglas
firs share space with a series of arresting bronze
sculptures. The haunting pieces of art are set on
mossy embankments beneath trees and on stretches
of grass, and as you walk among them they feel
like timeless artifacts from a long distant past.
Photos: Dal Neitzel
18 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

FROM LEFT Morris’s sculptures are hidden throughout the grounds. In the studio are fiber boats and bone-shaped art.
One is shaped like the antlers and bones of an animal, but
with a human visage. There’s a beast hoisting a child into the
air, a kneeling man with arms stretched to the heavens, a human
skeleton resting in the embrace of a tree trunk, a naked
woman in a posture of submission and a massive bone
against which a half-naked couple leans in repose. “This is one
of the coolest places in the world,” says Kit Spicer, dean of the
College of Fine and Performing Arts at Western Washington
University in Bellingham.
He’s referring to the studio and outdoor gallery belonging to
Ann Morris, the sculptor who created these provocative pieces
of art on Lummi Island over the past twenty-three years
and arranged them in what she calls her Sculpture Woods.
Morris recently donated the 15 acres of forest containing her
sixteen bronze statues and her studio to the university. At
the studio, a large A-frame building with skylights and floorto-ceiling
windows, a spirit of raw creativity permeates the
room. Fiber boats made from plant materials hang from the
wooden beams in the ceiling, the skull of an animal from the
hook on a wall and large antlers adorn the doors, indicative of
the extent to which nature inspires Morris’s work.
Spicer says the donation of the Sculpture Woods will transform
how students and faculty engage with their own work.
“There’s a palpable creative energy here, and I think it will become
a creative generator for artists and others who visit,” he
reflected. Now that the university has become the steward of
this space, he has a clear mandate for the future. “We consider
this an exquisite gift and we want to use it to celebrate
[Morris], her art and her life,” he said. “Our goal is to maintain
the Sculpture Woods, conserve its physical ambience and to
make this a space where people can convene, create and celebrate
creativity.”
In a statement, Morris said her gift was given “in the hope
this place continues to inspire creativity in all who come
here—Western students, professors and the public. May it be
a gift that continues giving,” she said.
Morris will lease the premises from the university foundation
and continue her work until she is ready to move on.
“There’s a palpable creative energy here,
and I think it will become a creative generator
for artists and others who visit.”
— Kit Spicer, Dean of the College of Fine and Performing Arts
at Western Washington University
When
You Go
The Sculpture Woods, at 3851
Legoe Bay Road on Lummi Island
and accessible by ferry, are open
to the public from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
the first Saturday of each month.
Take the train to Bellingham, drive
to the Lummi Island Ferry, and take
the ferry to the island.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 19

Musicians
CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMING
There’s Beauty In Growth
Haley Heynderickx’s first
full-length doesn’t play it safe
WRITTEN BY BEN SALMON
Alessandra Leimer
Album Review
Haley Heynderickx’ I Need to Start a Garden
is a quiet album, but it is not soft. There
is a weight to these songs that belies their
sparse arrangements. You can hear it in the
confidently plucked acoustic guitar strings
of “No Face,” or the muted horns in “The
Bug Collector,” or the plainspoken refrain
in “Show You a Body”: “I am humbled by
breaking down,” Heynderickx sings a dozen
times as the song rumbles to a close. She has
a compelling voice and a natural knack for
melody, but on Garden, Heynderickx’ greatest
skill is her ability to sing a song and make
it feel like she’s singing it just for you.
Train Tracks | All available on Spotify
“Oom Sha La La” from I Need to Start a Garden
A highlight from Heynderickx’ debut album that juxtaposes a ’60s
doo-wop chorus with twenty-first century disquiet.
“First I’m Sorry” from Fish Eyes
Singing about a shattered relationship, this tune is evidence Heynderickx
knows how to optimize an electric guitar.
“Worth It” from I Need to Start a Garden
At nearly eight minutes, this labyrinthine epic veers back and forth
between uncertainty and empowerment.
“Sane” from Fish Eyes
Heynderickx rambles and rumbles here, staking out the boundaries
of her own new genre—the doom-folk waltz.
“Big Ol’ Miyazaki Tears” from Unpeeled (Live)
Recorded by Portland’s Banana Stand Media, the live treatment only
makes this song feel more intimate.
IN 2016, HALEY HEYNDERICKX
turned a lot of heads with her Fish
Eyes EP, a gentle collision of gorgeous
folk songs, mildly psychedelic
vibes and an exciting new voice on
the Portland music scene.
So when it came time to follow it
up with a full-length,
Heynderickx had to
walk a tricky line between
sonically satisfying
her new fans and
evolving her sound.
Too much of the former
and she’d be playing
it safe. Too much of
the latter and she’d run
the risk of running off
folks Fish Eyes brought
into the fold.
With the help of
producer Zak Kimball,
Heynderickx took time
to make sure she got it
right. The result is her
stunning new full-length album, I
Need to Start a Garden.
“We threw out ideas we loved, and
ones that felt massively embarrassing.
Each song on the record was recorded
in five different ways—electric,
acoustic, classical, with band or
Scan to listen
solo,” Heynderickx said. “It took us
forever to figure out which combination
felt right.”
I Need to Start a Garden is both
delicate and distinctive, and it feels
like it’s made up of tiny 3D snapshots
more so than songs. “They all have
a lot of different places
and people living in
them,” Heynderickx
said. “Putting all these
things into permanent
little pieces and putting
them out into the
world is like encasing
them in amber, or like
a tattoo.”
Tattoos, of course,
are deeply personal,
and so is I Need to Start
a Garden. It’s a tribute
to Heynderickx’ family—full
of “incredible
gardeners,” she said—
and a paean to growth.
But Heynderickx has a way of making
her personal songs feel universal.
“I’d like people to find their own
pieces of these songs that speak to
their experience,” she said. “If it’s
comfort or catharsis or a question—
whatever that means to them.”
on Spotify
20 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Recognized by OnTrak Magazine
as a Top Northwest Destination
Wander in. Stay awhile.
Great wines. Lingering welcome.
weekdays, 11 to 4:30 – weekends, 11 to 5
17770 ne Calkins Lane, Newberg, Or
arborbrookwines.com – 503.538.0959
A TASTE OF
TRANQUILITY
150 acres of gardens, woodlands,
ponds, and forest beckon for a
perfect two-hour pause.
Also enjoy concerts, family
activities, guided nature walks,
lectures, and more.
OPEN TUESDAY- SUNDAY | bloedelreserve.org

Melissa McMillan’s Sammich has
grown to include a Portland shop.
Chef Spotlight
The Cheers of Sandwich Shops
The fast, unlikely—and probably inevitable—
rise of Sammich’s Melissa McMillan
WRITTEN BY CHAD WALSH
MELISSA MCMILLAN swears, frequently. Tattooed on
her right arm is an axe with nods to the city that birthed
her (Houston) and the city that raised her (Chicago). And
the one-time volunteer Little League coach is a die-hard
Cubs fan with the intentionally mismatched blue and red
Chuck Taylors to prove it.
The Cubs won the World Series in 2016 after a 108-year
drought. That victory was in many ways inevitable—sooner
or later they were going to win it all. But McMillan’s
meteoric rise in the local food scene wasn’t. And it started
in the unlikeliest of places: Ashland, Oregon.
Since opening Sammich in the spring of 2013, McMillan
and her sandwiches have become local institutions. Sammich
is known as much for its Montreal-style pastrami
and Chicago beef as it is for its political activism and earnest,
sometimes heckling service. But the wheels almost
fell off right as the doors were opening.
A year in, Sammich’s chef and McMillan’s wife of a decade
told her she was no longer gay. With a looming divorce
and a rudderless kitchen on her hands, McMillan realized
she needed to teach herself to cook—and fast. Until
then, she’d only smoked the brisket used for her now-famous
Reubens.
She kept it together with lots of DIY Midwestern work
ethic (and presumably, lots of swearing) and five years
later, she has a second Sammich in Portland and plans to
scale with shops in Bend, Houston, eventually, the Windy
City.
“I want Sammich to be the Cheers of sandwich shops,”
she said—the kind of place where people gather to find
comfort and kindness after a bad day.
Her plan is ambitious, but it’s not her dream job. She
wants to go back to coaching.
“My goal is to sell enough sandwiches so I can retire and
be a volunteer baseball coach for the rest of my life,” she
said. “That’s my dream job.”
22 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

our
for us Join
28 th Annual
Grape Stomp &
Harvest Celebration
September
22 nd & 23 rd
Learn about the amazing story of our winery
as you take in the sweeping views of the vineyard.
Enjoy food pairings with our classic Oregon
wines in a relaxing setting featuring an
expansive patio and spacious courtyard.
Wine Tasting | Food Pairings Menu | Daily Winery Tours | Wine Dinners
OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 6 PM
FRIDAYS & SATURDAYS 11 AM - 8 PM
WillametteValleyVineyards.com
8800 Enchanted Way SE · Turner, OR · 503-588-9463 · info@wvv.com
Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower
McMinnville
Eugene
Experience McMinnville’s Best Kept Secret.
Taste wine in our garden terrace during our new summer hours:
Fridays & Saturdays 11 to 7pm | Sunday 11-6 pm
Monday-Thursday 11 am-5 pm
455 ne Irvine St. | McMinnville | 503-412-9765 | ElizabethChambersCellar.
From Pinot Noir to Malbec, experience an
outstanding collection of wines at
Eugene’s original winery.
open daily 12-5 pm | SilvanRidge.com | 541-345-1945

Oregon
EVENTS CALENDAR
The Big Float
Tom McCall Waterfront Park
July 14
$10
thebigfloat.com
Celebrate summer in Portland by joining 3,000+ floaters during The
Big Float event. Launch from Tom McCall Waterfront Park and join your
friends on the Willamette River for a fun-filled day of floating to benefit
the Human Access Project. There will also be two 100-foot-long slip ’n’
slides, a costume contest and a tube parade.
Portland
OREGON ZOO SUMMER
CONCERTS
Portland Zoo
June 14-September 7
Prices vary
zooconcerts.com
Celebrate summer nights under
the stars and surrounded by the
wild kingdom at the Oregon Zoo.
Well-known musical guests grace
the stage during the summer
concert series—bring your
favorite blanket or lawn chair,
grab a brew and dinner from one
of the food carts, and relax while
listening to some great tunes.
WATERFRONT BLUES
FESTIVAL
Tom McCall Waterfront Park
July 4-7
$20
waterfrontbluesfest.com
The Waterfront Blues Festival, held
at Tom McCall Waterfront Park,
showcases four blues-filled days
of nonstop entertainment. More
than thirty of the best blues bands
in the country come together for
this annual event that has become
one of the staple music festivals
in Portland.
24 | SUMMER 2018
FUELED BY FINE WINE
Dundee Hills AVA
July 8
$85
fueledbyfinewine.com
Fueled by Fine Wine is now a
marathon lover’s favorite in
Oregon. This unique running
opportunity takes runners
through the rolling hills of the
Dundee wine country and
past some of the most famous
wineries in the state. Join friends
and family for a fun afterparty
and tasting experience.
Tickets include shirt, bib and a
commemorative tasting glass.
CATHEDRAL PARK
JAZZ FESTIVAL
Cathedral Park
July 20-22
Free
jazzoregon.com
The Jazz Society of Oregon is
celebrating its thirty-eighth
annual Jazz Festival, free to the
public. Fifteen musical acts will
perform on the main stage at
the base of the St. Johns Bridge
in Cathedral Park. There will be
food vendors to grab a bite from
and a beer garden to enjoy during
the show.
Jordan Fox
PORTLAND HIGHLAND
GAMES
Mt. Hood Community College
July 21
$17
phga.org
The Highland Games in Portland
has been keeping Scottish
roots alive since 1960. Head to
Mt. Hood Community College
to see traditional Scottish
dancing, Highland music and
whiskey tasting. The event will
also feature a heavy athletics
competition and fifty Scottish
clan-member tents set up to
stroll through.
OREGON BREWERS FESTIVAL
Tom McCall Waterfront Park
July 29
$7
oregonbrewfest.com
The 31st Annual Oregon Brewers
Fest, at Tom McCall Waterfront
Park, is one of our favorites!
Sample the tastiest Northwest
craft brews while you listen to
live music, try out the food carts
and find your new favorite beer.
Oregon City
OREGON CITY FESTIVAL
OF THE ARTS
End of the Oregon Trail
Interpretive Center
August 11-12
Free
threeriversartistguild.com
Get your culture fix at the
Three Rivers Artist Guild’s arts,
culture and heritage event. The
weekend focuses on visual and
performing arts in a beautiful
outdoor setting. Support Oregon
and Washington artists while
enjoying local food and drink and
family-friendly activities.
Salem
CHERRYFEST NW
Riverfront Park
July 4-8
$9
thebiteandbrew.com
Cherryfest NW, formerly known
as the Bite and Brew of Salem,
is gearing up for a new take on
an already great event. This
isn’t just another brewfest with
food—it’s a full carnival with
rides, games and contests, a
5K run, plus bites and brews,
and it’s all happening down at
Riverfront Park.
THE GREAT WHITE
WINE FESTIVAL
Left Coast Cellars
July 8
$25
leftcoastcellars.com
If you are a white wine lover, this
is the event for you! The region’s
best white wines will be on
display and ready for tasting at
Left Coast Cellars. Sip in the sun
while you enjoy the live music or
participate in family yard games.
Your entry fee includes tasting
and game tickets and a souvenir
GoVino wine glass.
RIVER’S EDGE SUMMER
MOVIE AND CONCERT SERIES
Independence
July 14-August 25
Prices vary
independenceamphitheater.com
The River’s Edge Summer
Movie and Concert Series runs
from July 14 through August
25 and hosts an eclectic group
of musical acts and movies for
you to enjoy. The shows will
be held at the Independence
Amphitheater in Riverview Park
along the Willamette River.
SALEM ARTS FAIR
AND FESTIVAL
Bush’s Pasture Park
July 20-22
$5
salemart.org
Just a block from downtown
Salem, you will find more than
200 vendors displaying their
wares for you to admire, as
well as two stages of ongoing
entertainment, a beer and wine
garden, food vendors and kids
center filled with art activities.
Albany
WILLAMETTE COUNTRY
MUSIC FESTIVAL
Brownsville
August 16-19
$100
willamettecountrymusicfestival.
com
This country music festival,
known for always having an
impressive musical lineup, is a
fan favorite in the Willamette
Valley with exciting artists all
in one place for three full days
of hit country music. Claim a
campsite or just stay for the day
and enjoy your favorite band.
Food and libations are available.
NORTHWEST ART
AND AIR FESTIVAL
Timber Linn Park
August 24-26
Free
nwartandair.org
For three exciting days, Timber
Linn Park host the Northwest
Art and Air Festival free to the
public. You will love the morning
hot air balloon launches and
evening glow event that lights
up balloons on the ground for
everyone to admire. Spend time
looking at the many art vendors,
take in a classic car show, enjoy
the music and food or the family
fun zone.
Eugene
WHITEAKER BLOCK PARTY
Whiteaker Neighborhood
August 4
Free
whiteakerblockparty.com
The annual Whiteaker block
party has it all—food, music
and nonstop fun. This funky
little party brings together all
the things that make Eugene
different. Local bands and
performers fill multiple stages
with street performances,
carnival games, an art area and
kids zone for families to enjoy.
EUGENE BREWS CRUISE
Old Whiteaker School
September 3
$25
level32racing.com/brews_cruise.
html
Looking for a great 5K run this
Labor Day? The Eugene Brews
Cruise is a great one to try.
Runners take off from the Old
Whiteaker School site and head
through the north Whiteaker
neighborhood along the
Willamette River to the finish
line. Make sure to head over to
Hop Valley Brewing for the race
afterparty.
ontrakmag.com

Eat.
Drink.
Be dazzled.
See Albany
Discover Oregon
Fabulous cuisine,
artisanal brews,
historic districts,
and family fun.
Tel: 541-928-0911
www.albanyvisitors.com
110 3rd Ave SE
Albany, OR 97321
August 11-12, 2018
10 am - 5 pm
at the End of the Oregon trail
in Oregon City
(across from the Amtrak station)
More than 55 Artists’ booths, food
vendors, & all day entertainment.
threeriversartistguild.com

Washington
EVENTS CALENDAR
Bite of Seattle
Seattle Center
July 20-22
Free
biteofseattle.com
The Bite of Seattle is a foodie favorite with more than sixty food vendors
for your tasting pleasure. This three-day event offers up a free bite movie
night, beer and cider tasting, local chefs on stage performing cooking
demos and a mystery ingredient cook-off. Don’t forget to visit The Alley,
a local restaurant showcase benefiting Food Lifeline.
Seattle
SEATTLE INTERNATIONAL
BEERFEST
Seattle Center
July 6-8
$25
seattlebeerfest.com
This seventeen-year Seattle
weekend tradition is all about
the beer. Taste and sample
brews from all over the world
in one place. Entry includes a
collector’s glass and ten beertasting
tickets.
SEATTLE TO PORTLAND
BICYCLE CLASSIC
University of Washington
July 14-15
$145-$160, free to watch
cascade.org
This 200+ mile bike ride is the
largest in the Northwest with
more than 10,000 cyclists.
Riders go from Seattle to
Portland through the scenic
valleys, forests and farmlands
of western Washington and
Oregon in one or two days.
LAKE UNION WOODEN BOAT
FESTIVAL
Lake Union Park
September 29-30
Free
cwb.org
This maritime boating
celebration takes place at Lake
Union Park on September 29-30.
The four-day festival invites you
come and enjoy an old-fashioned
waterfront experience with an
impressive live music lineup,
vendor booths and a boat race.
Historic wooden boats will be
available for rides or just to
admire.
Vancouver
VANCOUVER FARMERS
MARKET
Sixth & Esther St.
Saturdays and Sundays
Free
vancouverfarmersmarket.com
Every Saturday and Sunday
throughout the summer, the
Vancouver Farmers Market
is open for business. Wander
through more than 250 vendors
and pick up local produce, fresh
flowers and local crafts.
Christopher Nelson
VANCOUVER BREWFEST
Esther Short Park
August 10-11
$17
vancouverbrewfest.com
Head over to Esther Short Park
in Vancouver to celebrate craft
beer at the Summer Brewfest.
Sip your favorite brew while
tasting some of the foods
brought by great local vendors.
There are two full days of
entertainment lined up for you to
enjoy, too.
VANCOUVER WINE AND JAZZ
FESTIVAL
Esther Short Park
August 24-26
$25-$60
vancouverwinejazz.com
Since 1998, the Vancouver Wine
and Jazz Festival has been the
place to go if you want to hear
internationally acclaimed jazz
artists. Celebrating its twentieth
year, the festival will feature
more than 200 wineries, artisans
from all around the Northwest
and some great tastes from local
restaurants.
Olympia
CAPITAL LAKEFAIR
Heritage Park
July 11-15
Price TBA
lakefair.org
Capital Lakefair has been an
Olympia celebration since
1957, with a week of fun and
entertainment for the whole
family. Activities include a
carnival, classic car show,
parade and grand finale
firework show and a kids day on
Saturday.
Tacoma
SUMMERFEST
Fort Steilacoom Park, Lakewood
July 14
Free
cityoflakewood.us
This memorable outdoor festival
is fun for the whole family.
Entertainment includes food and
vendors, a classic car show, live
entertainment, and the kids area,
as well as multisport events, art
activities, extreme trampoline
acts and more.
VASHON ISLAND
STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL
Cove Road and Bank Road on
Vashon Highway
July 20-22
Free
vashonchamber.com
The 109th annual Strawberry
Festival is a celebration of
all things strawberry, and a
great excuse to soak up all the
things that make Vashon Island
special. Choose between the
classic car show, parade, beer
garden, music stages and artisan
vendors. Event highlights are
the carnival, street dance and
fun run.
FOOD TRUCK FEST
Wright Park
July 22
Free
metroparkstacoma.org
All the best food trucks come
together for one night only to
sell their most-loved entrees and
showcase some new ones. Enjoy
your meal while you listen to live
music from the beer garden at
Wright Park.
GIG HARBOR WINE AND
FOOD FESTIVAL
Downtown Gig Harbor and
Waterfront
July 27-29
$40-150
harborwineandfoodfest.com
This wine-and-food festival is
made up of three memorable
events, starting with the pier-totable
dinner, which includes an
evening of dinner and dancing on
Friday night. The waterfront block
party spreads all throughout
downtown Gig Harbor on
Saturday afternoon. Finish the
weekend with the Gig Harbor
Waterfront Champagne Brunch
on Sunday, made up of foods
from a number of downtown
waterfront restaurants.
41ST ANNUAL LEMAY CAR
SHOW
Marymount Event Center
August 25
$15
lemaymarymount.org
Enjoy a full day of exclusive
access to the vintage car
collection at the Marymount
Event Center during the
LeMay Car Show. An amazing
assortment of more than 1,500
vintage vehicles will be on
display with a chance to view the
family’s private garage, too.
Edmonds
EDMONDS OUTDOOR MOVIE
NIGHTS
Frances Anderson Center
Grounds
July 27, August 3
Free
edmondswa.gov
Watch a Blockbuster hit from
the comfort of your own lawn
chair or blanket under the stars
at the Frances Anderson Center.
Movies start at 9 p.m., just
after dusk, and refreshments
are available for purchase. The
movies are free and familyfriendly.
Bellingham
BELLINGHAM SEAFEAST
Downtown Bellingham &
Zuanich Point/Squalicum
Harbor
September 21-22
Free
bellinghamseafeast.com
This two-day event is a seafood
lover’s paradise with gourmet
eats fresh from the sea and
nonstop fun and activity around
Bellingham. Enjoy the opening
ceremony at the Maritime
Heritage Park Amphitheater,
stop by the SeaFeed at the
harbor or take in the evening
events happening downtown.
26 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Vancouver, BC
EVENTS CALENDAR
Bike the Night
Downtown Vancouver
September 15
C$5-55
bikehub.ca
Grab your bike, throw on some lights and join more than 5,000 bike
riders on a 10K roll through the streets of downtown Vancouver. Preparty
begins at 6 p.m. and the ride starts at 8 p.m. Route map and start
location are still to be announced. The event benefits HUB Cycling, a
nonprofit that works to increase cycling participation.
THEATRE UNDER THE STARS
Malkin Bowl at Stanley Park
C$30-49
July 4-August 18
tuts.ca
For more than seventy-five years,
Theatre Under the Stars has
been bringing musical theater to
the masses in Stanley Park each
summer. This year, the nonprofit
will produce two musicals—
Cinderella and 42nd Street.
BRUNCH AFFAIR FOOD
FESTIVAL
The Pipe Shop & Shipyards
Square
July 7-8
C$5-45
brunchaffair.ca
Everyone loves brunch. Celebrate
the love child of breakfast and
lunch with food vendors offering
brunch dishes and mixing up
drinks, as well as live local music.
Think eggs benedict, fresh
doughnuts and Canada’s national
drink, the Caesar. Proceeds from
the event benefit the Society for
the Advancement of Musicians.
GIRO DI BURNABY
Hastings Street
July 12
Free to watch
girodiburnaby.com
Check out this professional
criterium run on a short course
through the streets of Burnaby.
Criterium racing is done at high
speeds with more than 100 riders
riding in very close proximity—
come for the crashes and stay
for the sprint to the finish! There
is a beer garden on site, as well
as a youth race. The professional
women’s race runs first, then the
professional men’s race.
VANCOUVER FOLK MUSIC
FESTIVAL
Jericho Beach Park
July 13-15
C$45-155
thefestival.bc.ca
This folk music festival has
become a Canadian institution
over the past forty years. Expect
to find nearly 40,000 people on
hand to see the more than sixty
acts performing at the festival,
including Neko Case and Ry
Cooder.
CARIBBEAN DAYS FESTIVAL
Waterfront Park
July 28-29
Free
caribbeandays.ca
Get your island vibes grooving
with this two-day event featuring
a street parade and festival. The
festival, put on by the Trinidad
& Tobago Cultural Society of
BC, includes performances of
a variety of Caribbean music
styles, including calypso and
reggae.
CELEBRATION OF LIGHT
English Bay
July 28, August 1, August 4
Free to view; VIP viewing areas
ticketed
hondacelebrationoflight.com
Three countries battle it out each
year for best fireworks show. This
year, South Korea, South Africa
and Sweden will each take their
turn to try to impress Vancouver
with their fireworks displays
set to music. The three-night
celebration also includes a music
festival at Sunset Beach.
HARMONY ARTS FESTIVAL
Argyle Avenue waterfront
August 3-12
Free
harmonyarts.ca
This longtime free festival
celebrates all things art. There
are more than 150 free events,
including musical performances,
culinary events and art exhibits.
Also on tap are free outdoor
movie screenings in the evenings.
VANCOUVER PRIDE
Robson Street
August 5
Free
vancouverpride.ca
Vancouver is one of the top
gay-friendly destinations around,
so it’s no surprise that this year
will mark the city’s fortieth
annual celebration of LGBTQA
pride. Events kick off with a noon
parade along the city streets and
a festival on Sunset Beach, and
more than 650,000 spectators
are traditionally on hand.
TD VANCOUVER CHINATOWN
FESTIVAL 2018
Chinatown
August 11-12
Free
Vancouver-chinatown.com
More than 57,000 people gather
at Columbia and Keefer streets in
Vancouver’s vibrant Chinatown
to enjoy a day of multicultural
fun. The festival offers a day
market, a walking tour, talent
show and of course, tons of food
vendors.
GAME OF THRONES: LIVE
CONCERT EXPERIENCE
Rogers Arena
September 5
C$39-135
rogersarena.com
If you love the HBO series or the
George R.R. Martin books about
the fantasy world of Westeros,
you’re going to want to check out
this concert. Composer Ramin
Djawadi directs an orchestra
and a choir in music from seven
seasons of the television show,
as well as new music and footage
from the upcoming season.
SKOOKUM FESTIVAL
Stanley Park
September 7-9
C$114-319
skookumfestival.com
With an impressive lineup of
local and international musical
acts, multimedia art installations,
local food, beer and wine, this
first-year festival promises to
be a smash. Headliners include
The Killers and Florence + The
Machine.
VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL
Various locations
September 27-October 12
C$15 for a single ticket
viff.org
This is among the five biggest
film festivals in North America.
The lineup includes movies
that are screened at the world’s
top festivals, but this festival is
unique in offering the largest
selection of East Asian films
outside, well, East Asia. The
festival also features Canadian
films. The lineup is available in
early September.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 27

Outdoors
28. Athlete | 30. Notes from the Adventure
Reading, Writing
& Professional Riding
Cole Paton mixes college
and pro cycling
INTERVIEW BY SHEILA G. MILLER
COLE PATON
Age: 20
Hometown: Cashmere, WA
Notable achievements:
5th, 2017 Under-23 U.S. XC
National Championships;
2nd, USA Collegiate
National Championships
28 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Cameron Baird
MOST 20-YEAR-OLDS spend the summer between
their sophomore and junior years of college slinging
burgers, perhaps photocopying endless packets at
an internship.
Then there’s Cole Paton, a professional mountain
biker from Cashmere, Washington, who will spend his
summer traveling the world with the Giant Factory Off-
Road Team.
So, not your average 20-year-old. Take heart, at least,
that he’s the youngest guy on the team and one of two
rookies (the other is his college teammate, Stephan
Davoust, 23). In contrast, Giant’s third cross-country pro
is a 43-year-old who has been
biking professionally almost as
long as Paton has been alive.
Paton came to cycling in about
the most natural way possible.
His family owns Arlberg Sports,
a bike shop with locations in
Wenatchee and Leavenworth.
“I was kind of always the little
shop boy riding around chasing
everyone,” he said. “My dad
took me to a few of these local
races around here, and I just fell
in love.”
In high school, Paton ran cross
country competitively for a few
years. “But then I decided that
riding bikes is a lot more fun, so
I made the switch over my sophomore
year,” he said. “I started following the Pro XCT circuit
and there’s been no looking back since.”
Being on Giant’s factory team has helped Paton’s racing.
“Giant is helping me get to a lot more races and then we
have factory team support at every race, mechanics and all
the equipment and stuff we would need,” he said. “It’s just a
lot more support from the team and the company, which
is really nice and allows a lot more doors to be opened.”
But just because he’s a bike wunderkind doesn’t mean
he wanted to skip straight to life as a professional racer.
He is currently studying at Fort Lewis College in Durango,
Colorado.
“I wanted to go to school, just because education is really
important to me,” Paton said. “But I also wanted to go to
a place that would allow me to continue cycling and bring
me to another level. The only school I really could find
that would really fit that was Fort Lewis, and I couldn’t be
happier with that choice.”
Fort Lewis College has a very active cycling program—
“I was kind of always
the little shop boy
riding around chasing
everyone. My dad took
me to a few of these
local races around here,
and I just fell in love.”
— Cole Paton
more than 100 riders, including his Giant teammate
Davoust. Plus, the season is from September to November,
after he’s finished riding for Giant each year.
“It’s pure collegiate racing,” he said.
During the winter and early spring, Paton gets ready for
the racing season with “more hours than intensity.” He also
spends a lot more time in the gym working on strength. “I
spend a lot more time putting myself under,” he said.
Once the pro season starts, he averages about sixteen
hours a week on the bike, but with more intensity. For the
not-so-important races, Paton continues to train through
them and use them as workouts. For more important
races, the team tapers its training
for several weeks. During
the season, Paton visits the gym
once or twice a week to do maintenance
strength work.
Depending on his workout,
Paton changes his diet. If he
does a hard ride, he eats plenty
of carbs. If he’s taking it easy, it’s
about healthy protein and fats.
More than anything, he’s hungry
all the time.
“I cannot get enough food
in,” he said, laughing. “I eat so
much. That’s a main thing that
concerns my coach, eating
enough. I try to do that with
healthy carbs and all that, but
I’m taking in, like, 5,000 or 6,000
calories a day. I’m still growing. It’s a real pain (to eat so
much), but it works.”
That’s made more challenging with the beer-and-pizza
ethos of college.
“It’s nice because I’m not in the dorms anymore,” Paton
said. “That was impossible. But being able to cook what I
want to cook is a lot better.”
Paton is currently targeting the U23 U.S. national championships
as his goal race this year. He’ll also compete in
August in the Mont-Sainte-Anne Mountain Bike World
Cup event in Canada, and in May he competed in Germany
and Czech Republic in another world cup race.
Long term, Paton has his eyes set on the Olympics—
likely 2024, but he’s going to give 2020 a shot. Short term,
he would like to win a national championship. And, you
know, be a 20-year-old.
“It’s been awesome to ride with Giant and the team is
a great environment,” he said. “I want to just keep having
fun and riding bikes.”
SUMMER 2018 | 29

Notes from the Adventure
TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN
Disc(o) Fever
A disc golf guide
for the Pacific Northwest
WRITTEN BY ARLO VORHEES
Tucked away in the Olympics and strung out on
jags of the Columbia Gorge, disc golf courses
are just about everywhere in the Pacific Northwest.
For the uninitiated, disc golf is sort of like
regular golf’s rebellious stepbrother. Traditional
lush fairways disappear in groves of old growth,
and curated greens become swamps or ravines
or both. Instead of pins, think chain-link baskets
and sub clubs for hard, fluorescent discs. Amateur
friendly and inexpensive—fees rarely exceed
$5 per car—disc golf (or Frisbee golf, or Folfing)
combines hiking, sightseeing and hucking into
one leisurely afternoon. Though myriad courses
dot the I-5 corridor from Eugene to Vancouver,
BC, here are six can’t-miss spots that are worth a
shot on your way out of town.
Dabney
Sadly, last year’s Eagle Creek Fire will keep most of the
Gorge beyond Multnomah Falls off limits for the foreseeable
future. Don’t despair, for situated along I-84 just
ten minutes from Multnomah Falls, Dabney State Park is
part-swimming hole, picnic area and disc golf course. Ignore
the weird placement of holes 1 and 2 (way too close
to the road) and let the drama unfold at Tee 3. From there,
a woodsy trifecta of swampy hazards, old cherry orchards
and stately firs await.
Insider Tip: From the southern parking lot walk toward
the grassy picnic area to find an upside-down tree—no
fooling.
Minutes from Portland Union Station: 35
Cost: $5 per car
Photos: Erika Unyatinszki
Riverbend
Located along the Clackamas River—the oft-neglected
tributary of the Willamette—forty minutes south of Portland
and just outside Estacada, behold the Riverbend Disc
Golf Course at Milo McIver Park. Home to the Beaver
State Fling and other major disc golf events, this course
consistently ranks as one of the best in the country. You’ll
find yourself awash in Douglas fir, Western red cedar and
cheered on by a cacophony of bird sounds while the Clackamas
hurries just seconds away.
Insider Tip: Scamper down the path to the river at hole 2
for a quick refresher.
Minutes from Portland Union Station: 40
Cost: $5 per car
30 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Dabney State Park’s course is just 10 minutes from
Multnomah Falls. Riverbend Disc Golf Course is home to big tournaments. Pier Park’s
course is in the heart of Portland.
Pier Park
Located in St. John’s—Portland’s charming township within
city limits—Pier Park is a huge city park that just so happens
to contain an 18-hole Frisbee golf course. An ideal
appetizer to a day at the St. John’s Farmers Market or a
nightcap to an afternoon lounging at Cathedral Park, this
course is well-designed and easy to navigate. Though you’ll
pass by playgrounds and tennis courts, plenty of buffer
abounds, so thrown down with your bad self.
Insider Tip: Remind your entourage that this park was the
inspiration and setting for the NBC show Grimm.
Minutes from Portland Union Station: 15
Cost: Free
Shelton Springs
Want to combine a scenic drive with a round of disc golf
and still get back to Olympia for happy hour? An easy meander
from Union Station (as the disc flies), Shelton Springs
State Park is situated southeast of Olympic National Park
and just west of the Hood Canal. Beware of log island on
hole 11. It’s a real whiz-banger.
Insider Tip: Go 25 miles north on Highway 101 to Hama
Hama and gorge indiscriminately on oysters.
Minutes from Centennial Station in Olympia: 60
Cost: Free
Fort Steilacoom State Park
Nestled in a piney wonderland just south of Tacoma, this
old federal barracks actually hosts three frisbee golf courses.
Choose your own path depending on your skill level. If
you just want to fling it, you can’t go wrong with the Northwest
course. Hole 11 is straight medieval—you basically
toss your disc into a forested abyss, valiantly descend to
re-claim what’s rightfully yours and conquer its shadowy
chains. It’s perfect for folks of all skill levels.
Insider Tip: Tell your friends they’re standing on the
grounds of a recently demolished, and allegedly haunted,
insane asylum.
Minutes from King Station in Seattle: 50
Cost: Free
Golf Island
Though there are several decent courses in the Vancouver
metro area, this spectacular course is worth the ferry ride
from Vancouver. Also accessible from Victoria, this 18-hole
masterpiece must land somewhere on your island-hopping
itinerary. It’s one of the region’s first courses (established in
1980) and ideal for amateurs and experts alike. You’ll tread
through a veritable gauntlet of mossy stones and Douglas
Firs. Home to the famous “Pender Bender” tournament
and teeming with helpful locals, this place is as much a
landmark as it is a disc golf course.
Insider Tip: If you forget your discs, just about every store
in Pender will sell them to you.
Minutes from Pacific Central Station in Vancouver: 180
(includes ferry)
Cost: Free
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 31

Weekender
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
Richmond’s Asian population is more
than half the city, and it shows in the
delicacies at local restaurants.
Noodles, Dumplings & More
Asian culinary concertos
in Richmond, British Columbia
WRITTEN BY LAUREN KRAMER
LONG KNOWN AS the home of
Vancouver International Airport,
BC’s Richmond has been quietly
incubating an array of behindthe-scenes
attractions for years.
After it built the speed skating
oval for the 2010 Olympics, the
city began to yield its secrets to
the many visitors passing this way.
One of those secrets is gastronomic.
With an Asian population
that constitutes more than half its
residents, Richmond has emerged
as a culinary hotspot for Asian
cuisine. Noodles are handmade
by the thousands each day, dumplings
are carefully folded and tofu
is unrecognizable when it arrives
fried, flavored and matched up
with an assortment of bamboo
shoots and Asian greens grown in
British Columbia.
Japanese restaurants with allyou-can-eat
menus rub
shoulders with eateries
specializing in the tastes
Richmond’s culinary
scene gives visitors
an opportunity to
immerse themselves
in an utterly different
dining experience
that can take them
straight to Asia and
back in an hour—
without the jetlag.
32 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

BLACK BUTTE RANCH
LODGING
DINING
GOLF
SPA
RECREATION
There is a place… Where family memories unfold.
Welcome to Black Butte Ranch. 1,800 pristine acres invite
exploration—by foot, bike, even paddle board. Play golf
on two scenic championship courses. Or cool off from a
hike in one of the Ranch’s five pools. Try some regional
cuisine—from fi ne dining to artisan pizza—while kiddos enjoy
our Activity Center. Our unique lodging has something for
everyone. Your Black Butte Ranch Adventure awaits.
855-773-9446 BlackButteRanch.com 7 miles west of Sisters
Paintings of whales are one thing.
Seeing them in person is another!
Whale Watching Packages
Available May-September
804 10 th St Bellingham WA 360.756.1005 thechrysalisinn.com
visitvancouverusa.com
big things are on the horizon in vancouver usa — new waterfront park coming summer 2018

EAT
Blue Canoe Waterfront Restaurant
bluecanoerestaurant.com
Catch Kitchen + Bar
catchkitchen.com
Ember Indian Kitchen
emberikitchen.com
Richmond Night Market
richmondnightmarket.com
Graham Osborne
STAY
Steveston Hotel
jrg.ca
Fairmont Vancouver Airport Hotel
fairmont.com/vancouver-airportrichmond
River Rock Casino Resort
riverrock.com
PLAY
Gulf of Georgia Cannery Museum
pc.gc.ca/gulfofgeorgiacannery
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Steveston Harbour Pier. At the Richmond Olympic Oval, visitors can test out their athletic prowess. The Gulf
of Georgia Cannery Museum teaches visitors about the area’s history.
Parks Canada
Britannia Heritage Shipyards
richmond.ca/britannia-hss.ca
Richmond Olympic Oval
richmondoval.ca
Tourism Richmond BC
visitrichmondbc.com
and textures of Shanghai, Hong Kong, Taiwan and
Malaysia. Offering an assortment of dishes you’d be
hard-pressed to find anywhere outside of Asia, Richmond’s
culinary scene gives visitors an opportunity
to immerse themselves in an utterly different dining
experience that can take them straight to Asia and
back in an hour—without the jetlag.
The historic heart of Richmond lies in Steveston,
a small fishing village on the cusp of the Fraser River.
Here, expect an eclectic mix of homestyle coffee
shops, boutiques, galleries and restaurants, a place
where locals chat with fishermen on the pier and families bask
in sunshine over plates loaded with fresh fish and chips.
A long boardwalk lines the river in Steveston, providing a
starting point for a leisurely walk or bike ride from the village.
Travel east, past the old cannery buildings, and you reach the
Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site. Here, a series of
historic buildings show the homes and working conditions of
shipyard residents and workers, painting a portrait of the lives
When
of the people who once toiled here.
In Steveston village, the Gulf of Georgia Cannery
Museum tells of Richmond’s beginnings in 1894 as
a central point for the salmon industry. Fishing fleets
would offload their catch here and employees of fifteen
canneries worked day and night to meet the
international demand for canned salmon. The museum
explains how the canning operations worked
and what the lives of cannery workers were like. An
airy, family-friendly place with lots of hands-on opportunities
for curious kids and adults, the cannery
museum gives visitors a perspective on life in this town more
than a hundred years ago.
Though the canneries have long since shut their doors, it’s
still possible to purchase wild salmon and shrimp directly off
boats moored at the pier. That’s where locals and visitors flock
when the sun shines—to eat fish and chips overlooking the
Fraser River while vessels sail by and eagles and seagulls provide
ample aerial entertainment.
You Go
Take Amtrak
Cascades to
Pacific Central
Station in
Vancouver.
From there, it’s
a 30-minute
drive.
34 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

ADVERTISE
HERE
OnTrak magazine brings together stories
of creative entrepreneurs, innovative companies,
adventurous journeys and intriguing artists
from across the Pacific Northwest to every seat
of Amtrak Cascades.
From Eugene to Portland, Tacoma, Seattle
and Vancouver, B.C., OnTrak is the official onboard
vehicle for culture and entertainment for more than
800,000
annual passengers
Contact Statehood Media at advertising@statehoodmedia.com or 541.728.2764

Weekender
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
A Stop in the Suburbs
Lake Oswego doesn’t disappoint
Austin White
WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER
Dine on the lake in Lake Oswego.
SOMETIMES, SUBURBS are the destination.
If you seek to escape the ever-increasing bustle of Portland
but maintain high standards for shopping, dining and living,
arts-centric and well-heeled Lake Oswego is your spot.
It’s important to have a good breakfast base when exploring,
and Babica Hen is the best breakfast in town. The
sheer number of waffle types will have your head spinning
at the possibilities. Earn the waffles with a brisk hike in Tryon
Creek State Natural Area. The more than 650-acre park
is filled with classic Portland green space—there is a nature
center to learn more about the flora and fauna you’re seeing,
as well as 8 miles of hiking trails and horse and bicycle trails.
Then it’s time to begin shopping in earnest, at its many
independent and small businesses that line the downtown
area. Start at Grapevine, an upscale boutique that sells all
kinds of women’s fashions and can ensure you look the part
while visiting this ritzy enclave.
A new, large-scale development just opened nearby on a
city block bounded by First and Second streets and A Avenue
and Evergreen Road, where a local grocery store once
stood. The Windward, which abuts Millennium Plaza Park
and has views of the lake, offers upscale apartments on the
upper floors and retail on the bottom floor. Among the most
hotly anticipated openings at the site were Salt & Straw, the
famed Portland ice cream store, and Adorn, a Portland boutique
that has opened a storefront here. Chuckie Pies, a locals
spot for thin-crust pizza owned by the same people who
run Chuck’s Place (another local favorite for breakfast
and lunch), has also relocated to the development.
Up State Street a bit, swing through pig’ments,
36 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Experience
ESTABLISHED 1970
OPEN DAILY
Just 40 minutes from Portland
19500 SW MOUNTAIN HOME ROAD, SHERWOOD, OR 97140
PONZIVINEYARDS.COM | 503-628-1227

EAT
Babica Hen
babicahencafe.com
Nicoletta’s Table
nicolettastable.com
Austin White
Chuck’s Place
chucksplaceonb.com
Baird’s on B
bairdsonb.com
Tavern on Kruse
tavernonkruse.com
STAY
Lakeshore Inn
thelakeshoreinn.com
Crowne Plaza Portland-
Lake Oswego
ihg.com
PLAY
Grapevine
grapevinefashion.com
pig’ments
pigmentsboutique.com
Lake Oswego
Festival of the Arts
lakewood-center.org
Lake Theater & Cafe
laketheatercafe.com
Tryon Creek State
Natural Area
oregonstateparks.org
Austin White
an adorable boutique in an unassuming strip
mall. The boutique sells a nice mix of clothing,
home decor and lighthearted treats like chocolate
bars whose wrappers feature celebrities
reimagined as dogs. And if it’s interior design
you crave, head to Vanillawood, a shop with
decor and gifts.
There’s more to Lake Oswego than shopping,
of course. Especially in the summer, the
city has a ton of options for getting outside.
The Lake Oswego Farmers’ Market begins in
mid-May on Saturdays and is one of the best
in the Portland metro area, with more than
eighty vendors, live music and a kids area. On
summer Thursdays, head to Millennium Plaza
Park, where the city hosts an outdoor movie
night. This year, the Lake Oswego Festival of
the Arts will take place June 22-24. The festival
will celebrate its 55th birthday this year
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP
Lake Theater
& Cafe is a
restaurant and
movie theater.
Rabbit stew
from Tavern on
Kruse. Pig’ments
is an adorable
boutique.
with six exhibits and other events at the Lakewood
Center for the Arts, as well as in George
Rogers Park. This year, the special exhibit
will focus on 3D printing. More than 25,000
visitors flock to Lake Oswego each year for
the festival.
When it’s time to refuel, try Nicoletta’s Table.
The homemade pasta and lasagna are divine,
and that’s before you even think about the tiramisu
and sorbet. Or go full dinner and a movie
all in one place with the Lake Theater and Cafe.
The theater shows first-run films and offers a
full menu of surprisingly upscale housemade
food that changes seasonally—think butternut
sage pizza, cracklins mac’n’cheese and baked
Brie. Or finish the day with a high-flavor, lowkey
meal at Baird’s on B or Tavern on Kruse.
Tavern on Kruse has an extensive wine list and
Baird’s on B is the local favorite.
38 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

DRIVER & VETERAN OWNED & OPERATED SINCE 1946 #1 IN SAFETY AND CUSTOMER SERVICE EXPERIENCED DRIVERS
HAILING A CAB AT PORTLAND’S UNION STATION HAS
NEVER BEEN EASIER!
Download the Radio Cab app while you ride, and we will
be ready when you arrive. Radio Cab services the greater
Portland metro area and surrounding cities, including
Beaverton, Clackamas, Gresham, Hillsboro, Happy Valley,
Lake Oswego, Oregon City, Milwaukie, Tualatin, Tigard,
West Linn and Vancouver, Washington.
Download the App at RadioCab.net
503.227.1212 Portland • 360.694.1234 Vancouver

THE BEST SPOTS TO RIDE BIKES, FROM DIRT
TO ROADS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN
WRITTEN BY BEAU EASTES
WE LIKE TO ride bikes in the Pacific Northwest.
Pavement, singletrack, gravel. Heck, we’ve even
embraced fat bikes so we can ride on sand along the
coast and on top of snow during the winter.
We bike to work, we bike for fun and some of our
favorite business folks have figured out a way to bike
for work. Bikepacking, bike-fishing, bike-hunting and
bike-rafting are all real things in the Upper Best Coast.
So where’s the best place to embrace your inner
LeMond? Where should you go on your first bikepacking
adventure? What community fully endorses
bike events with bacon AND beer handups (deliveries
of snack and drinks)?
We’re glad you asked. Here are five of
our favorite cities in the entire universe to
ride bikes.
40 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

EUGENE
Chris Pietsch
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Willamette Valley Scenic Bikeway is 134 miles through the heart of Oregon’s bounty. A 34-mile Covered Bridges Scenic Bikeway hits six bridges. The
Ruth Bascom Riverbank Trail System is family-friendly.
THERE’S A LOT to love about Eugene’s
bike scene, including its friendly
and easy-to-use commuter system. But
what lands Track Town, USA on this list
is its vast access to various road rides.
Head north out of town on Coburg
Road and you can jump on the Willamette
Valley Scenic Bikeway, a 134-
mile tour through the heart of one of
the most productive and diverse agricultural
regions in the country. You’ll
pass through hop fields, vineyards, hazelnut
farms and orchards as you work
your way north. Stop for a beer and a
stonefire pizza at Agrarian Ales north
of Coburg before, during or after your
ride. It’s a brewery on a chili pepper
farm that specializes in—you guessed
it—beers made with chili peppers and
local produce.
Looking for something a little more
WHERE TO RIDE
Cottage Grove lollipop road ride
Distance: 71 miles
This road ride, with almost 4,400 feet of
climbing, will open your eyes to the rough
and rugged beauty of the Eugene area. Take
off from downtown Cottage Grove and head
west 12 miles on the Cottage Grove-Lorane
Highway. When you hit Lorane, you’ll start a
45-mile clockwise loop that’s highlighted by
scenic climbs in Douglas and Lane counties
and approximately 10 miles of cycling along the
Siuslaw River. Head back to Cottage Grove the
same way you came in when you hit Lorane.
rugged? Head southwest into the Calapooya
Mountains, which rise to just
over 6,100 feet. Loops that dive into the
southern half of Lane County showcase
Oregon’s timber legacy. Start and end a
route in Cottage Grove—you’ll recognize
its cute downtown from the parade
scene in Animal House—then grab
a drink and catch a show at the Axe &
Fiddle, one of the coolest music venues
in the state.
Eugene’s also a great spot for a family
bike vacation. With more than 110 miles
of dedicated bikeways in operation or in
planning stages, the city’s a great place
for younger riders to get comfortable
on two wheels without constantly worrying
about traffic. The Ruth Bascom
Riverbank Path System, a 12-mile paved
trail on both sides of the Willamette
River, is perfect for little ones or anyone
just looking for a scenic, car-free ride.
Just as picturesque is the 34-mile Covered
Bridges Scenic Bikeway that starts
in Cottage Grove and heads east around
Dorena Lake. The route hits six covered
bridges, five of which can be accessed
on a 17-mile rails-to-trails section.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 41

BEND
Richard Bacon
There are plenty of places to ride your mountain bike in Bend.
IT’S ALL ABOUT dirt in Bend—and
beer—and if you plan things right, beers
immediately after you get off the dirt.
Take the Central Oregon Breeze from
Union Station to the high desert.
The flowy singletrack of the Phil’s
Trail Complex put Bend on the map for
mountain biking in the early 1990s and
it’s a great spot to kick off a mountain
biking adventure in Central Oregon.
Classic cross-country trails surround
the main trailhead, while more technical
options are located at higher elevations
farther west.
Want to release your inner racer?
Climb up Ben’s Trail 5.3 miles before
taking an old fire road up for 1.7 miles
to the start of Lower Whoops. It’s just
a shade under 2 miles, but this downhill-only
trail will have you hooting and
hollering with its multiple jumps, berms
and skinny tree gaps.
With nearly 300 miles of singletrack
WHERE TO RIDE
Cascade Lakes Welcome Station loop
Distance: 17 miles
Start at the Cascade Lakes Welcome Station
just 7 miles southwest of downtown Bend
for a 17-mile loop that showcases a little bit
of everything that makes Central Oregon a
destination for mountain bike junkies. Take
Catch and Release for about 1.5 miles until it
connects with the Storm King Trailhead. You’ll
start climbing west, gaining about 700 feet over
5 miles. The singletrack is expertly laid out and
you’re never bored. Eventually you’ll head east
on Tyler’s Traverse, a downhill-only trail, and be
rewarded with 3 miles of flowy singletrack with
views, armored climbs and more than enough
jumps and drops to get your blood flowing.
in and around Bend, Phil’s is just the
jumping-off point for fat-tire fanatics.
The Wanoga Trail Complex about 20
miles southwest of downtown on the
way to Mount Bachelor features more
enduro and technical riding and usually
smaller crowds due to its more challenging
terrain. Less than 10 miles up
the road from Wanoga is Mount Bachelor,
which offers downhill mountain
biking during the summer months.
Just as fun as Bend’s abundant singletrack
is the area’s numerous gravel and
dirt roads. “Gravel grinding” and bikepacking—backpacking
by bike—has
become hugely popular in the area as
Central Oregon is full of old logging and
forest roads just waiting to be explored.
One popular loop takes riders from
the gorgeous Shevlin Park on Bend’s
west side to the scenic, Western-themed
town of Sisters almost completely on
dirt, cinder and gravel roads. The adventurous
can even add some singletrack
on Sisters’ Pedersen Ridge Trail
System if they’re so inclined. It’s 40
miles round trip, but a donut and coffee
break at the Sisters Bakery or the Sisters
Coffee Company makes for a splendid
halfway point.
42 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

PORTLAND
Dylan VanWeelden
TAKE THE TRAIN
Amtrak Cascades offers
ten bike racks on each
train. Make reservations
for yourself, and your bike,
and head to these great
biking destinations.
Cyclocross, like this Alpenrose Dairy Cross Crusade event, can get messy.
FROM ZOO BOMBERS to bike messengers
to hardcore commuters, Portland
has major street cred with multiple
cycling subcultures. That said,
nothing encapsulates the Rose City’s
attitude toward bikes like its thriving
cyclocross scene.
The largest ’cross series in North
America, the River City Bikes Cyclocross
Crusades attracts more than a 1,000 racers
at each race and as many as 4,000 for
the crazy popular Alpenrose event. Mud,
snow, rain, sleet, hail—the nastier the
conditions, the more fun the races are.
Beer, bacon and donut handups—goodies
passed on from the crowd to racers—
WHERE TO RIDE
Alpenrose Dairy Cross Crusade race
To truly fall in love with cyclocross, you need
to dive in and experience it yourself. Alpenrose
is typically the first race of the season for the
Cyclocross Crusades, so jump right in this
October. Beginners race with other beginners in
the Cat 5 category, and you’ll find other newbies
on mountain bikes and hand-me-down ‘cross
rides full of just as much nervous energy as you.
You’ll ride your guts out for forty-five minutes,
feel like death is upon you, and then most likely
figure out how to sign up for the rest of the series.
are common, and heckling is encouraged.
Cyclocross is also one of the most
newbie-friendly cycling disciplines
on the planet. If you can ride a bike
for thirty minutes, hop over the occasional
barrier and not take yourself
too seriously you can probably enjoy
a ’cross race in the beginner category.
The aforementioned Alpenrose Dairy
races are extremely well attended, in
large part because of the course design
that at times has taken riders up stairs,
along a faux-Western Main Street,
through working barns and on a velodrome.
The ’Cross Crusades have also
incorporated flyover ramps, step-over
barriers made to look like coffins, and a
Thunderdome. Yes, for the love of Tina
Turner, a Thunderdome.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 43

SEATTLE
Nityia Photography
Sparkfly Photography
WE DARE YOU to find a place in the
Pacific Northwest, maybe the entire
country, that’s more fun than Seattle to
take your favorite townie bike and roam.
It doesn’t even have to be your own
bike—the birthplace of grunge rock,
Rainier beer and overpriced espresso
was the first place in the U.S. to adopt a
modern dockless bike-sharing program
(ask Portland natives about the Yellow
Bike Project of 1994 if you want to know
why we use the term “modern”).
Our favorite place to explore by bike
in Seattle is the Fremont neighborhood.
Good food, great beers and phenomenally
engaging public art—yes, that’s a
statue of Vladimir Lenin, not John Lennon—make
it easy to spend a day or
even a week carelessly cruising through
Fremont. Stay at the Hotel Hotel hostel
in the heart of the neighborhood,
right above an Irish pub, and find your
way to Fremont Brewing, Bluebird Ice
Cream, Jive Time Records and eventually
The Barrel Thief (You deserve the
truffle popcorn and the barrel-aged
cocktails). Just know Hotel Hotel won’t
WHERE TO RIDE
Georgetown Brewery to Odin Brewery
Distance: 27 (easy) miles
Start at Georgetown Brewing and head south
and connect with East Marginal Way South.
You’ll cruise along for about 12 miles and ride
past the Aviation Pavilion of the Museum
of Flight before hitting the Green River and
Interurban trails. About 13 miles into the ride
you’ll come upon Odin Brewing Company, a
great little halftime stop for your urban trek. Take
the Green River Trail back to Georgetown. About
half your 27 miles will be on car-free trails.
let you store your bike in your room—
the bike rack and hidden courtyard will
have to suffice.
If you’re looking to bounce around
from neighborhood to neighborhood,
you’re in luck—the 20-mile Burke-Gilman
trail, one of the most popular
cycling commuter routes in the entire
city, runs smack through Fremont
along the north side of the Ship Canal.
Head west toward Elliot Bay to check
out Ballard or pedal northeast along
Lake Washington and take in Kenmore
and Bothell.
ABOVE Fremont Brewing is a perfect stop while exploring. AT LEFT, FROM TOP The Barrel Thief has top-shelf cocktails.
Browse through used vinyl at Jive Time Records. Bluebird Ice Cream makes small-batch artisan treats.
44 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

VANCOUVER, BC
Cycle City Tours
Cycle City’s tours send you through Vancouver with stops for history and snacks.
WE SAVED OUR favorite for last.
Nowhere in North America offers
more variety and excellence in cycling
than our go-to community north of
the border.
Freestyle mountain biking was arguably
born in the North Shore, and the
BC Bike Race, a seven-day singletrack
stage race that starts in North Vancouver,
is on the bucket list of just about
anyone who’s ever considered herself a
disciple of dirt.
More comfortable on pavement? Vancouver
boasts some of the most spectacular
road rides in the country. Loop
around the Stanley Park Seawall and
you’ll take in views of Vancouver Harbor,
English Bay and of course Stanley
Park, the city’s 1,000-acre urban sanctuary.
Head west toward Wreck Beach
and ride past a host of beach parks and
the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club.
WHERE TO RIDE
Stanley Park Seawall
Distance: 6 miles
It’s pretty simple—if you’re in Vancouver, you
owe it to yourself to cruise from Vancouver
Harbor to English Bay, even if it’s a shorter ride
than your daily commute into work. The Stanley
Park Seawall ride, 10 kilometers of smooth
paved goodness, highlights the majestic North
Shore mountains, showcases the impressive
Lions Gate Bridge and lets visitors immediately
tap into the energy and radiance that makes up
the Vancouver bike community. Take your time,
enjoy the ride and prepare to be awed.
Treat yourself to a stay at the Pinnacle
Hotel at the Pier in North Vancouver.
Not only does it offer complimentary
bikes for guests and storage lockers for
cyclists who brought their own rides,
but the hotel is perfectly located for exploring
on two wheels.
One of the best ways to get the most
out of any trip to Vancouver is with an
urban cycling tour from Cycle City. Part
history tour, part culinary delight, Cycle
City’s Grand Tour through Stanley
Park, Chinatown, historic Gastown and
uber-hip Granville Island will have you
plotting how to convince your family to
move to Vancouver.
For bike rentals, you can’t go wrong
with Spokes Bike Rentals at the entrance
of Stanley Park, a friendly group
who rent out bikes for nearly any style
of riding.
That seems to be Vancouver’s style.
Genuinely friendly folks who love bikes
and are super excited to share their beloved
bike culture with anyone else who
enjoys life in the saddle. We can’t wait to
get back.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 45

Lake Chelan’s blue depths are
an out-of-the-way destination.
TOP PLACES
TO
GET
AWAY
Escape the crowds and find the bliss with woods, water & wine
WRITTEN BY KEVIN MAX
46 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Stehekin Valley Ranch
WASHINGTON
WOODS
Mount Rainier: Paradise Inn
and National Park Inn
Book a room at the historic Paradise Inn
and let the wooded adventure begin. One
of the Great Lodges of the West, Paradise
Lodge is the perfect combination of
history, architecture and craftsmanship.
Outside are miles of trails for hiking and
trail running.
Mount Rainier is a wonderland for
wilderness therapy. Hop on the Palisades
for an 8.4-mile out and back to Snoquera
Point while taking in waterfalls and
sweeping views of the White River Valley.
Fewer people take this trail because it’s
relatively steep for a hike, nonetheless it
has its visual reward.
Take another day to hike or run the
majestic waterfalls of Rainier. Doe Falls,
Denman Falls, Chenuis Falls and Ipsut Falls
via Carbon River are varying lengths, from
6.5 miles round-trip to 15 miles. Check
with Visit Rainier for the forest or park
passes required for trail use.
Pop over to Wellspring Spa in Ashford.
In a secluded forest setting, you can enjoy
a massage or soak in cedar tubs, the latter
for $15 per hour.
Take the gondola to Summit House
restaurant and reward yourself with
gourmet burgers, wraps, salads, and
regional beers and wines.
THIS SUMMER, ON an increasingly crowded
planet, we looked for places to get away from
the crowds using woods, water and wine—the
basic elements of the Pacific Northwest—as our
refuges. If you want to run with the in crowd, then follow
the noise to your common destination. If you want to find
some of the best places to get away and swim against the
current this summer, look to the elements of woods, water
and wine. The ship that Ralph Waldo Emerson launched in
1841 was that of Self-Reliance and nonconformity, instilling
generations of Americans with a sense of adventure and
solitude. These venues appeal to that sense.
Sol Duc Hot Springs,
Olympic National Park
Another take on the woods theme—just
add hot water. Out on the Olympic
Peninsula, Sol Duc Hot Springs is
surrounded by towering pines and nestled
in a quiet peace of mind. Reserve a cabin
and chill at one of three mineral hot
springs or one freshwater pool. Before
heading into the forest, grab a book by one
of Washington’s bestselling authors, Tom
Robbins, Kristin Hannah or Annie Proulx.
North Cascades Lodge
Dive into Lake Chelan in the North
Cascades. The remote North Cascades
Lodge at Stehekin is self-reliance at its
finest, accessible by two-and-a-half to
four-hour ferry or arduous and beautiful 12-
mile hike. Once there, let the games begin.
There is kayaking and fishing on the pristine
glacial Lake Chelan, hiking in the North
Cascades or taking the Stehekin red bus
with ceiling windows for maximum views
out to the 312-foot Rainbow Falls
and hitting up the Stehekin Garden
and Pastry Company for fresh
local produce and baked goods.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 47

1) Paradise Inn is designated one of the Great Lodges of
the West. 2) North Cascades Lodge at Stehekin sits on the
shores of Lake Chelan. 3) Eritage Resort in Walla Walla is
designed around good food and wine. 4) FivePine Lodge in
Sisters is a perfect hideout in the woods.
1 2
Donavon Preiser
WATER
Long Beach Peninsula
Finding solitude on the coast is not a
simple task. Long Beach Peninsula is an
old-school respite where solitude rolls
in on lazy breakers. Take up at one of the
area’s inns or hotels and head out into
the elements.
The 8-mile-long Discovery Trail is a
paved path along the beach that weaves
through coastal dunes and south to
Cape Disappointment State Park, visited
by Lewis and Clark in 1805. The 1,872-
acre park is also home to two stunning
lighthouses and clamming on Benson
Beach. Just a dozen miles northeast of
Long Beach is Willapa National Wildlife
Refuge, where you can step along a
boardwalk on the Willapa Art Trail, a
University of Washington Public Arts
Program, in the midst of a pristine
birding paradise.
For endurance athletes, know that from
top to bottom of the Long Beach Peninsula
are 22 miles of uninterrupted solid-pack
beach running. This is the scenic route to
putting in miles. At the northern terminus
lies Ledbetter State Park, a beautiful jetty
that separates the Pacific Ocean from the
eastern Willapa Bay. In summer, you may
catch the chicks of the endangered snowy
plover, looking like speckled cotton balls
and teetering on too-thin toothpick legs.
Shelburne Inn, Long Beach
Built in 1896, Shelburne Inn holds the
distinction of being Washington’s longest
continuously operating hotel. This quaint
Victorian inn offers hospitality at the
ocean’s door. Sitting in Shelburne’s pub
transports you to the English countryside
or a New England bay. Billiards,
shuffleboard and a quiet den make this
retreat special.
Adrift Hotel, Long Beach
Slip over to the Adrift Hotel in Long Beach,
where the hospitality includes the Adrift
Distillers’ cranberry liqueur and live local
music nightly. The menu at the restaurant,
Pickled Fish, is a case study in keeping it
local: salmon and oysters are on the menu,
as well as the PF burger from local grassfed
beef, microgreens and locally foraged
mushrooms.
Bellingham
Bellingham offers a different take on the
water-borne escape. Just 90 miles north
of Seattle, Bellingham is a world apart. Get
away from the crowds by taking to sea for
fishing or whale watching and combining it
all with local brews. Go for halibut, lingcod
or salmon and catch your own dinner. Or
go big with any number of whale watching
charters out of Bellingham, in search of
Humpback, Minke and Orca. If you have
your sea legs, pair the salty sea with a
malty drink. The Bellingham Bay Brewers
Cruise offered by San Juan Cruises brings
together tastings from three brewers
on an hour-and-a-half cruise through
Bellingham and Chukanut bays. Back on
land, hop on the Bellingham Tap Trail and
drink in the local terroir. More than twenty
breweries and tap houses are part of this
network for beer lovers.
Three of our favorite lodging venues
in Bellingham include: Heliotrope, a
hip grouping of suites and community
fireplace and lounge; the comely Chrysalis
Inn & Spa with bay views, fireplaces
and down comforters as well as a full
restaurant and spa; and the Oxford
Suites, featuring a nightly reception with
48 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

3
4
Benjamin Edwards
complimentary wine and beer.
If you prefer the equanimity of a
babbling brook in the midst of national
forest set in a cool mountain town, head
to Winthrop in the North Cascades.
River’s Edge Resort is such a place, where
the serene Methow River runs below it,
and is best viewed from a hot tub on a
private deck.
WINE
Walla Walla
The new Eritage Resort in Walla Walla
is a solo masterpiece designed for good
food and wine. It has ten luxury suites,
a restaurant menu from James Beard
Award-winning chef Jason Wilson and set
in rolling hills of grape vines and wheat
just outside downtown Walla Walla,
where dozens of tasting rooms showcase
fabulous local wines.
Richland
The Lodge at Columbia Point in Richland
goes to the heart of wine country. The
Columbia Valley AVA is Washington’s
largest, extending north of Lake Chelan
and dipping into Oregon at its southern
border and from Yakima in the west to the
Idaho border. Within that is the vaunted
Red Mountain AVA, the smallest AVA in
Washington, comprising only 600 acres.
Nonetheless, this small area puts out
some of the state’s best cabernet grapes
and is home to a couple of dozen wineries
including Upchurch Estate, Tapteil
Vineyard Winery and Col Solare. The
Lodge at Columbia Point is your jumping
off point for wine tasting on Red Mountain
AVA, or sample the wines of the region
from Vine Wine & Craft Bar, with small
plates from the restaurant’s chef.
Unwind in the Lodge’s covered, openair
pool and hot tubs and look out over the
fertile land that yields such great wines.
OREGON
WOODS
Joseph
Drop it all and head out to Joseph in
the lap of the Wallowa Mountains. Art
and nature come together in this tiny
northeastern Oregon town. The breweries
are vibrant, the mood optimistic and the
temps moderate enough in summer to
keep you outdoors. Often referred to as
Little Switzerland, the Wallowas offer
many good hikes ranging from short and
close to town to epic and multiday. High
Ridge Trail is an easy 8-mile out-andback
trail, with spectacular views over
the Minam Creek Canyon and along the
Eagle Cap Wilderness boundary. Another
favorite is Bonny Lakes Trail, a moderate
7.8-mile hike with the reward of glacial
lakes atop.
Joseph is also an artsy town dotted with
bronze statues from its bronze foundry.
The craftsmanship carries over to its
libations, too, with Stein Distillery making
good whiskey and liqueurs and Terminal
Gravity Brewery in nearby Enterprise
combining craft with laid-back culture.
The boutique Jennings Hotel in Joseph
brings a dash of hip to this Western town.
There are nine guest rooms, a kitchen,
library and a sauna at this property.
Sisters
Another hidden little gem in
the woods is FivePine Lodge in
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 49

1
2
3
Sisters. Once a logging mecca, Central
Oregon’s mills began closing in the
’80s and ’90s until tourism became the
real cry. The small Western-themed
town of Sisters, however, doesn’t seem
contrived. The bakeries are world-class,
the restaurants very good and the
surrounding national forest sublime.
Sisters is the ideal setting for attainable
recreation close by and an entertaining
town to retire to at night.
The Sisters Folk Festival, September
7-9, is an amazing musical experience.
Make plans ahead of time, because
this is a packed scene. Great emerging
bands take to outdoor and indoor stages
throughout town over the weekend. It
has the buzz of Park City’s Sundance Film
Festival, but with music. I know this may
not at first seem like an escape, but the
first sweet note reaching out from a folk
singer on a stage not more than 10 feet
from your soul, and you know why this is a
singular experience.
FivePine Lodge is an upscale venue
on the edge of the Deschutes National
Forest. Out back are trails that lead into
the Peterson Ridge Trail system for hiking
and mountain biking. Road biking up the
McKenzie Pass is another good, if hearty,
option. FivePine’s campus includes a luxury
spa, Three Creeks Brewery and a red barn
movie house that shows first-run films.
Black Butte
Just up the Santiam Pass from Sisters is
a shockingly beautiful mountain meadow
home to Black Butte Ranch. The skies
are big and so are the golf courses. Two
championship course—Big Meadow
and Glaze Meadow—are designed for
mountain zen … until you take your first
Mulligan off the first tee. Not to worry,
Black Butte is also prepared for the
sulking and healing process with a resort
spa, Lodge restaurant and Aspen Pub.
Horseback riding, tennis, swimming and, of
course, hiking the adjacent Black Butte are
all fair game at this Central Oregon resort.
WATER
Pacific City
Like unexpected sunshine poking through
a band of grey, the new Headlands Coastal
Lodge and Spa in Pacific City brings a
long-sought luxury property to the Oregon
Coast. Perched opposite the monolithic
contemplation piece, Haystack Rock,
Headlands is a zen den for those who
embrace the hush of the sea to wash
over their own tranquility. Headlands’
restaurant makes a good case for eating
in with grilled lamb or black rockfish, but
if the weather cooperates, there may be
good reason to make a picnic on the beach
with a custom basket from Headlands, or
to pop over to Pelican Brewing Company
with its excellent beers.
Astoria
On a jetty near the mouth of the Columbia
in Astoria is the storied Cannery Pier
Hotel & Spa. Once the scene of Oregon’s
tuna and salmon fishing and canning
industry, the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa
is a handsome makeover that preserves
the story and embraces its history with
the annual Fisher Poet Gathering each
February. Meanwhile, Astoria has become
a budding arts community, spanning
the cultural waterfront with galleries of
watercolor to edgy sculpture. Plan an
hour or two at the Columbia Maritime
Museum, a good way to get in the spirit of
Astoria. Back at the hotel and cuddled up
next to your fireplace, pop a bottle of wine
and read either Astoria, the account of
the wealthy New Yorker John Jacob Astor
whose hired expedition here named the
50 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

4
Jerry's Rogue Jets
The Allison Inn & Spa
6
5
1) Black Butte Ranch offers mountain views and plenty of golf. 2) Astoria’s Cannery Pier
Hotel & Spa is a centerpiece of this thriving coastal community. 3) Headlands Coastal
Lodge & Spa has fine dining in Meridian. 4) Get your wine on at The Allison Inn & Spa.
5) Practice wildlife photography on the Rogue River at Paradise Lodge. 6) The Hood River
Hotel is a historic building of distinction.
town Astoria, or the interesting little book
Fins, Finns and Astorians, the story of the
immigrant-led fishing community.
On The Rogue River
Way down on the Rogue River is a slice
of paradise. Paradise Lodge on the Rogue
River is as remote as you can get without
going AWOL. One of the last places
where—blessedly—there is no cell service,
this is a true chance to unplug along a
Wild and Scenic-designated river. There
are three ways to get to Paradise Lodge
and none of them involves a car. You can
hike in, raft in or take a jet boat to this
pastoral setting. This is a good chance
to catch up on your writing, rekindle
intimacy in your relationship, or work on
your wildlife photography with bears often
fishing along the river.
WINE
Ashland
A great makeover, the Mid-century
modern Ashland Hills Hotel is a classy
way to get close to the Southern Oregon
wine scene. Mad Men stylish, Ashland
Hills Hotel sits at the edge of the city and
on the doorstep of a sumptuous wine
region. Head out for a hike into the nearby
Siskiyou Mountain Park for a trip among
the pinot-colored madrones as a preface
to what comes later. These are some
nice trails that cater to all levels of hikers
or runners. After, head out southeast
of Ashland Hills Hotel along Emigrant
Creek Road to a pleasant surprise in the
rolling green hills. Irvine & Roberts is a
place where you can spend a day, sipping
wonderful pinot meunier or chardonnay
and looking out over the verdant valley.
Hood River
The historic Hood River Hotel represents
a cool basecamp for the emergent
southern end of the Columbia Valley AVA,
otherwise known for soil that produces
the bulk of Oregon’s cherries, apples and
pears. Built in 1911, Hood River Hotel is a
spectacle of preservation and relaxation.
Nicely updated rooms and a Scandinavian
vibe permeate this venue on the National
Register of Historic Places. Bring your
mountain bike and hit the vast trail
networks on either side of the Columbia,
then reward yourself with regional wines
at Analemma, Cathedral Ridge and
Domaine Pouillion. In town, browse the
boutiques that have given Hood River
its box-storeless backbone. These are
The Ruddy Duck, Melika Waterwear and
Waucoma Bookstore. Back at Hood River
Hotel, relax in the Scandinavian sauna.
Newberg
Out in Newberg, it’s time to get serious
about wine, food and spa. You can’t drive
more than a mile without encountering
a great Oregon winery. To center your
wanderings, start at The Allison Inn & Spa,
where the Jory restaurant is tops in food,
wine and service. Head out to Chehalem
Mountains AVA and make a loop, tasting
your way through one of the finest winegrowing
areas in Oregon—ArborBrook, Elk
Cove, Ponzi and Toil, just to name a few.
Back at The Allison, hit the spa and enjoy
live music by a wood-burning fireplace.
Bliss.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 51

HIGHER GROUND
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAMERON ZEGERS
Step into Washington’s temperate rainforest.
TreeHouse Point, in Fall City, is only a half hour
from Seattle, but it couldn’t feel farther away from
the hustle and bustle of city life. The bed-andbreakfast
property, with six hand-hewn tree houses
and a small lodge, is the brain child of Pete Nelson.
Nelson purchased the property in 2005, after
nearly a lifetime of building tree houses. Since
building his first tree house on the site, Temple
of the Blue Moon, he’s added five more. And he’s
also started a company, Nelson Tree House and
Supply, which offers workshops and sells the tools
and units necessary to build your own at home.
Temple of the Blue Moon was Nelson’s first project
on the site, and is accessed by a suspension bridge.
52 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 53

FROM LEFT The Burl, the most recently built tree house
on the site, curls around a huge fir tree. Trillium is a
two-story tree house, 16 feet up in the air in a cedar tree.

LEFT Bonbibi has a covered deck that allows you to sit among the
trees even in bad weather.
AT RIGHT 1) A sign directs visitors to each of the tree houses on the
property. 2) As the newest tree house, The Burl is the only one to
offer indoor plumbing. 3) Nest has a large deck allowing views of the
river. 4) Upper Pond is the largest tree house on the property, with a
ship’s ladder access and room for up to four people to sleep over.

1 2
4
3

Eat + Stay + Play
Oregon Guide
EUGENE
Belly Taquería
$$, Mexican
69 FEET FROM STATION
541.683.5896
eatbelly.com
The Bier Stein
$$, American, Pub
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.2437
thebierstein.com
Marché
$$, French
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.3612
marcherestaurant.com
McMenamins High Street
Brewery & Café
$$, Brewpub
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
541.345.4905
mcmenamins.com
Oregon Electric Station
$$$, Steakhouse, Italian,
Seafood
374 FEET FROM STATION
541.485.4444
oesrestaurant.com
Sushi Pure
$$, Sushi
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.654.0608
sushipureeugene.com
Tacovore
$$, Mexican
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
541.735.3518
tacovorepnw.com
58 | SUMMER 2018
WildCraft Cider Works
$$, New American
0.4 MILES FROM STATION
541.735.3506
wildcraftciderworks.com
ALBANY
Calapooia Brewing
$$, Brewpub
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.1931
calapooiabrewing.com
Frankie’s Restaurant
$$, American, Steakhouse
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.248.3671
frankies-oregon.com
Sybaris Bistro
$$$, New American
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.8157
sybarisbistro.com
SALEM
ACME Cafe
$$, American
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.798.4736
acmecafe.net
Christos Pizzeria & Lounge
$$, Pizza
1.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.371.2892
christospizzasalem.com
Tavern on Kruse, Lake Oswego, Oregon
Gamberetti’s Italian
Restaurant
$$, Italian
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.399.7446
gamberettis.com
OUR PICK
Wild Pear
$$, Cafe
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.378.7515
wildpearcatering.com
Willamette Valley
Vineyards
Turner
$$, Winery
9.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.588.9463
wvv.com
OREGON CITY
Adelsheim Vineyard
Newberg
$$$, Winery
29 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.3652
adelsheim.com
ArborBrook Vineyards
Newberg
$$, Winery
29.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.0959
arborbrookwines.com
Cana’s Feast Winery
$$, Winery
Carlton
37.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.852.0002
canasfeastwinery.com
Oregon City Brewing Co.
$$, Brewpub
0.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.908.1948
ocbeerco.com
R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar
$$, Wine
McMinnville
38.7 MILES FROM STATION
866.472.8614
rstuartandco.com
PORTLAND
Babica Hen
Lake Oswego
$$, Breakfast & Brunch
10 MILES FROM STATION
503.636.4012
babicahencafe.com
Baird’s on B
Lake Oswego
$$, American, Cocktails
10 MILES FROM STATION
503.303.4771
bairdsonb.com
Caffe Mingo
$$, Italian
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.4646
caffemingonw.com
Chennai Masala
Hillsboro
$$, Indian
12 MILES FROM STATION
503.531.9500
chennaimasala.net
Chuck’s Place
Lake Oswego
$, Cafe, Breakfast & Brunch
10 MILES FROM STATION
503.675.7861
chucksplaceonb.com
Decarli
Beaverton
$$, Italian
8.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.641.3223
decarlirestaurant.com
Elephant’s Delicatessen
$$, Deli
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
elephantsdeli.com
Garden Bar
$$, Vegetarian
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
gardenbarpdx.com
Gloria’s Secret Café
Beaverton
$$, Latin American
8.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.268.2124
Imperial Restaurant
$$, American
0.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.7222
imperialpdx.com
Laurelhurst Market
$$$, Steakhouse
2.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.206.3097
laurelhurstmarket.com
Le Bouchon
$$$, French
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.248.2193
bouchon-portland.com
OUR PICK
Nicoletta’s Table
Lake Oswego
$$, Italian, Delis
9.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.699.2927
nicolettastable.com
Oven and Shaker
$$, Pizza, Italian
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.241.1600
ovenandshaker.com
The Palm Court
$$$, American
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.2000
bensonhotel.com
The Parish
$$, Seafood, Southern
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.227.2421
theparishpdx.com
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
$$$, Steakhouse
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.221.4518
ruthschris.com
Serratto Restaurant & Bar
$$, Italian, Mediterranean,
Modern European
1 MILE FROM STATION
503.221.1195
serratto.com
Syun Izakaya
Hillsboro
$$, Japanese
16.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.640.3131
syun-izakaya.com
Tavern on Kruse
Lake Oswego
$$, American, Cocktails
11 MILES FROM STATION
503.303.5280
tavernonkruse.com
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
EUGENE
Best Western New
Oregon Motel
2 MILES FROM STATION
541.683.3669
book.bestwestern.com
C’est La Vie Inn
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.302.3014
cestlavieinn.com
Courtyard Eugene Springfield
4.6 MILES FROM STATION
541.726.2121
marriott.com
Excelsior Inn
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.6963
excelsiorinn.com
Hilton
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.2000
hilton.com
Holiday Inn Express
& Suites
3 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.1243
ihg.com
Oval Door Bed &
Breakfast Inn
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.683.3160
ovaldoor.com
Phoenix Inn Suites
1 MILE FROM STATION
541.344.0001
phoenixinn.com
Valley River Inn
3 MILES FROM STATION
541.743.1000
valleyriverinn.com
ALBANY
Best Western Plus
Prairie Inn
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.5050
book.bestwestern.com
Comfort Suites
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.2053
comfortsuites.com
Phoenix Inn Suites
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.926.5696
phoenixinn.com
SALEM
The Grand Hotel
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.540.7800
grandhotelsalem.com
Hampton Inn & Suites
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.362.1300
hamptoninn3.hilton.com
Red Lion
2.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.370.7888
redlion.com
OREGON CITY
Best Western Plus
Rivershore Hotel
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.655.7141
book.bestwestern.com
Grand Hotel at Bridgeport
Tigard
11.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.968.5757
grandhotelbridgeport.com
Lakeshore Inn
Lake Oswego
6.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.636.9679
thelakeshoreinn.com
PORTLAND
Ace Hotel
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.2277
acehotel.com
OUR PICK
The Benson, a Coast Hotel
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.2000
coasthotels.com
Caravan: The Tiny
House Hotel
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.288.5225
tinyhousehotel.com
Crowne Plaza Portland-
Lake Oswego
Lake Oswego
10.6 MILES FROM STATION
503) 624-8400
ihg.com
Embassy Suites Portland -
Washington Square
Tigard
11.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.644.4400
portlandembassysuites.com
Friendly Bike Guest House
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.799.2615
friendlybikeguesthouse.com
Hotel Eastlund
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.235.2100
hoteleastlund.com
Hotel Modera
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
877.484.1084
hotelmodera.com
Inn @ Northrup Station
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.224.0543
northrupstation.com
Jupiter Hotel
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.230.9200
jupiterhotel.com
OUR PICK
Lakeshore Inn
Lake Oswego
10 MILES FROM STATION
503.636.9679
thelakeshoreinn.com
McMenamins Edgefield
Troutdale
13.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.669.8610
mcmenamins.com
McMenamins Grand Lodge
Forest Grove
25.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.992.9533
mcmenamins.com
The Nines
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
877.229.9995
thenines.com
Resort at the Mountain
Mt. Hood Village
45.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.622.3101
theresort.com
River’s Edge Hotel & Spa
4.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.802.5800
riversedgehotel.com
Shift Vacation Rentals
3.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.208.2581
shiftvacationrentals.com
Tierra Soul Urban Farm &
Guesthouse
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.489.7645
tierrasoulpdx.com
Timberline Lodge
Timberline
62.5 MILES FROM STATION
800.547.1406
timberlinelodge.com
The Westin
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.294.9000
westinportland.com
The Grand Hotel, Salem, Oregon
ontrakmag.com Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides: jenny@statehoodmedia.com
SUMMER 2018 | 59

Eat + Stay + Play
EUGENE
Bijou Metro
0.4 MILES FROM STATION
541.686.3229
bijou-cinemas.com
Cascades Raptor Center
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.1320
eraptors.org
Heritage Dry Goods
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.393.6710
heritagedrygoods.com
Hult Center for the
Performing Arts
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.682.5087
hultcenter.org
Museum of Natural
& Cultural History
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.346.3024
natural-history.uoregon.edu
Oakway Center
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.4711
oakwaycenter.com
ALBANY
Albany Antique Mall
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.704.0109
albanyantiquemall.com
Gallery Calapooia
0.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.971.5701
gallerycalapooia.com
Oregon Coast Aquarium
Newport
65 MILES FROM STATION
541.867.3474
aquarium.org
SALEM
Evergreen Aviation
& Space Museum
+ Waterpark
McMinnville
24.3 MILES FROM
STATION
503.434.4185
evergreenmuseum.org
Gilbert House Children’s
Museum
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.371.3631
acgilbert.org
Boys Fort, Portland, Oregon
Historic Elsinore Theatre
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.375.3574
elsinoretheatre.com
Salem Center
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.399.9676
salemcenter.com
OREGON CITY
Bridgeport Village
Tigard
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.968.1704
bridgeport-village.com
Clackamas Repertory
Theater
3.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.594.6047
clackamasrep.org
End of the Oregon Trail
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.657.9336
historicoregoncity.org
PORTLAND
Arlene Schnitzer
Concert Hall
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.248.4335
portland5.com
Bella Casa
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.222.5337
bellacasa.net
Bonnet
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.954.2271
shop.bonnetboutique.com
Boys Fort
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.567.1015
boysfort.com
Ellington Handbags
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.542.3149
ellingtonhandbags.com
Garnish Apparel
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.954.2292
garnishapparel.com
Grapevine
Lake Oswego
9.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.635.6009
grapevinefashion.com
McMenamins
Crystal Ballroom
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.225.0047
mcmenamins.com
Mt. Hood Meadows
Ski Resort
Mt. Hood
75 MILES FROM STATION
503.337.2222
skihood.com
Lake Theater & Cafe
Lake Oswego
10 MILES FROM STATION
503.387.3236
laketheatercafe.com
OUR PICK
Oregon Museum
of Science and Industry
1.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.797.4000
omsi.edu
Oregon Zoo
3.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.1561
oregonzoo.org
Physical Element
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.224.5425
physicalelement.com
pig’ments
Lake Oswego
10.8 MILES FROM
STATION
.503.676.3171
pigmentsboutique.co
Pittock Mansion
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.823.3623
pittockmansion.org
Portland Art Museum
1 MILE FROM STATION
503.226.2811
portlandartmuseum.org
Rachelle M. Rustic House
of Fashion
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
971.319.6934
rachellem.com
Rice Northwest Museum
of Rocks & Minerals
Hillsboro
17.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.647.2418
ricenorthwestmuseum.org
OUR PICK
Tryon Creek State
Natural Area
Lake Oswego
8 MILES FROM STATION
800.551.6949
oregonstateparks.org
Twist
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.224.0334
twistonline.com
US Outdoor Store
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.223.5937
usoutdoor.com
60 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
Washington Guide
TanakaSan
$$, Asian Fusion
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.812.8412
tanakasanseattle.com
Westward
$$, Mediterranean,
Breakfast, American
5.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.552.8215
westwardseattle.com
EDMONDS
Arnies Restaurant
$$, Seafood
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
425.771.5688
arniesrestaurant.com
EVERETT
Anthony’s HomePort
$$, Seafood
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.3333
anthonys.com
STANWOOD
Pine Box, Seattle, Washington
Stanwood Grill
$$, American
289 FEET FROM STATION
360.629.5253
stanwoodgrill.com
KELSO/LONGVIEW
The Office 842
$$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.442.4647
theoffice842.com
CENTRALIA
McMenamins Olympic
Club Pub
$$, Brewpub
0.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.736.5164
mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
Farrelli’s Pizza
$$, Italian
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
360.493.2090
farrellispizza.com
Fish Tale Brew Pub
$$, Brewpub
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.943.3650
fishbrewing.com
Hop Jacks
$$, American
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.528.2174
hopjacks.net
TACOMA
Asado
$$$, Argentine
4.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.7770
asadotacoma.com
Odd Otter Brewery
$, Brewery
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
253.327.1680
oddotterbrewing.com
Pacific Grill
$$, American, Seafood
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
253.627.3535
pacificgrilltacoma.com
TUKWILA
Miyabi Sushi
$$, Japanese
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
206.575.6815
miyabisushi.com
SEATTLE
Assaggio Ristorante
$$$, Italian
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.441.1399
assaggioseattle.com
Eastside Bar & Grill
$$, American
Bellevue
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.455.9444
coasthotels.com
Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails
$$, American, Breakfast
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.971.8015
frolik.motifseattle.com
John Howie Steak
$$$$, American, Steakhouse
Bellevue
10 MILES FROM STATION
425.440.0880
johnhowiesteak.com
Little Water Cantina
$$, Mexican
4 MILES FROM STATION
206.397.4940
littlewatercantina.com
OUR PICK
Loulay Kitchen & Bar
$$, French, Breakfast
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.402.4588
thechefinthehat.com
Pine Box
$$, Brewpub
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.588.0375
pineboxbar.com
Revel
$$, Asian Fusion, Korean
5.9 MILES FROM STATION
206.547.2040
revelseattle.com
Seastar Restaurant
& Raw Bar
$$$, American, Seafood
Bellevue
10.7 MILES FROM STATION
425.456.0010
seastarrestaurant.com
Sharps Roasthouse
$$, American, BBQ
SeaTac
13.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.241.5744
sharpsroasthouse.com
MOUNT VERNON
OUR PICK
Skagit River Brewery
$$, Brewpub
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.336.2884
skagitbrew.com
BELLINGHAM
Leaf & Ladle
$$, Soup, Sandwiches
3.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.319.9718
facebook.com/leafandladle
ontrakmag.com Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides: jenny@statehoodmedia.com
SUMMER 2018 | 61

Eat + Stay + Play
KELSO/LONGVIEW
Monticello Hotel
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.425.9900
themonticello.net
CENTRALIA
Centralia Square Hotel
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
360.807.1212
centraliasquare.com
McMenamins - Olympic
Club Hotel & Theater
0.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.736.5164
mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
The Governor, a Coast
Hotel
7.9 MILES FROM STATION
360.352.7700
coasthotels.com
Little Creek Casino Resort
20.6 MILES FROM
STATION
800.667.7711
little-creek.com
Red Lion Hotel
8 MILES FROM STATION
360.943.4000
redlion.com
TACOMA
Hotel Murano
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
253.238.8000
hotelmuranotacoma.com
Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma
Waterfront
3.9 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.1300
silvercloud.com
TUKWILA
Cedarbrook Lodge
SeaTac
4.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.901.9268
cedarbrooklodge.com
Springhill Suites
Renton
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
425.226.4100
marriott.com
SEATTLE
Alexis Hotel
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.624.4844
alexishotel.com
Belltown Inn
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.529.3700
belltown-inn.com
Coast Bellevue Hotel
Bellevue
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.455.9444
coasthotels.com
Coast Gateway Hotel
SeaTac
13.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.248.8200
coasthotels.com
Greenlake Guest House
7.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.729.8700
greenlakeguesthouse.com
Hotel 1000
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.957.1000
hotel1000seattle.com
Hotel Monaco
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.621.1770
monaco-seattle.com
Grand Hyatt
Seattle
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.774.1234
seattle.grand.hyatt.com
Inn at the Market
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.448.0631
innatthemarket.com
The Maxwell Hotel
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.286.0629
themaxwellhotel.com
The Moore Hotel
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.448.4851
moorehotel.com
OUR PICK
The Paramount Hotel
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.292.9500
paramounthotelseattle.com
Seattle Sheraton
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.621.9000
sheratonseattle.com
Sorrento Hotel
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.622.6400
hotelsorrento.com
EDMONDS
Best Western Plus
Edmonds Harbor Inn
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
425.771.5021
book.bestwestern.com
Coast Wenatchee
Center Hotel
Wenatchee
133 MILES FROM STATION
509.662.1234
coasthotels.com
Courtyard by Marriott
Seattle North
5.3 MILES FROM STATION
425.670.0500
marriott.com
EVERETT
Holiday Inn Downtown
Everett
0.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.339.2000
ihg.com
Inn at Port Gardner
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.6779
innatportgardner.com
STANWOOD
Cedar Bluff Cottage
5.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.445.3333
cedarbluffcottage.com
Hotel Stanwood
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
360.629.2888
stanwoodhotelsaloon.com
MOUNT VERNON
Best Western Plus Skagit
Valley Inn
1.9 MILES FROM STATION
360.428.5678
book.bestwestern.com
Tulip Inn
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
800.599.5696
tulipinn.net
BELLINGHAM
The Chrysalis Inn & Spa
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.756.1005
thechrysalisinn.com
OUR PICK
Fairhaven Village Inn
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
360.733.1311
fairhavenvillageinn.com
Hotel Bellwether
4 MILES FROM STATION
360.392.3100
hotelbellwether.com
The Chrysalis Inn & Spa, Bellingham, Washington
62 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
VANCOUVER
Kiggins Theatre
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.816.0352
kigginstheatre.net
Pike Place Market, Seattle, Washington
KELSO/LONGVIEW
Cowlitz County Tourism -
Visit Mount St. Helens
360.577.3137
visitmtsthelens.com
Kelso Theater Pub
0.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.414.9451
ktpub.com
CENTRALIA
Centralia Factory Outlets
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.736.3327
centraliafactoryoutlet.com
Centralia Fox Theatre
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.623.1103
centraliafoxtheatre.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
Capitol Tours
7.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.902.8880
des.wa.gov
Little Creek Casino Resort
Shelton
20.6 MILES FROM
STATION
800.667.7711
little-creek.com
Rhythm & Rye
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.705.0760
facebook.com/rhythmandrye
TACOMA
LeMay—America’s Car
Museum
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
253.779.8490
americascarmuseum.org
OUR PICK
Museum of Glass
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
253.284.4750
museumofglass.org
Point Defiance Zoo &
Aquarium
7.4 MILES FROM STATION
253.591.5337
pdza.org
Tacoma Art Museum
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.4258
tacomaartmuseum.org
Washington State History
Museum
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.3500
washingtonhistory.org
TUKWILA
Museum of Flight
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.764.5720
museumofflight.org
SEATTLE
Bellevue Arts Museum
Bellevue
10.7 MILES FROM
STATION
425.519.0770
bellevuearts.org
Experience Music Project
Museum
2 MILES FROM STATION
206.770.2700
empmuseum.org
Museum of History and
Industry
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.324.1126
mohai.org
Neptune Theatre
4.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.682.1414
stgpresents.org
Northwest Outdoor Center
3.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.281.9694
nwoc.com
Olympic Sculpture Park
2 MILES FROM STATION
206.654.3100
seattleartmuseum.org
Pike Place Market
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
pikeplacemarket.org
Seattle Aquarium
1 MILE FROM STATION
206.386.4300
seattleaquarium.org
Seattle Art Museum
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.654.3100
seattleartmuseum.org
Woodland Park Zoo
5.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.548.2500
zoo.org
EDMONDS
Cascadia Art Museum
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
425.336.4809
cascadiaartmuseum.org
Edmonds Center
for the Arts
0.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.275.4485
edmondscenterforthearts.com
Visit Edmonds
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
1.877.775.6935
visitedmonds.com
EVERETT
OUR PICK
Future of Flight Aviation
Center & Boeing Tour
Mukilteo
8 MILES FROM STATION
1.800.464.1476
futureofflight.org
XFINITY Arena at Everett
0.5 MILES FROM STATION
425.322.2600
xfinityarenaeverett.com
STANWOOD
Stanwood Cinemas
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.629.0514
farawayentertainment.com
MOUNT VERNON
Downtown Mount Vernon
360.336.3801
mountvernondowntown.org
Lincoln Theater
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
360.336.8955
lincolntheatre.org
BELLINGHAM
Bellingham Railway
Museum
3.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.393.7540
bellinghamrailway
museum.org
The Green Frog
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
888.968.8783
acoustictavern.com
Mount Baker Theatre
3.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.734.6080
mountbakertheatre.com
ontrakmag.com Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides: jenny@statehoodmedia.com
SUMMER 2018 | 63

Eat + Stay + Play
Vancouver Guide
The Oakwood Canadian
Bistro
$$, Gastropub, Canadian
5.6 KM FROM STATION
604.558.1965
theoakwood.ca
Octopus’ Garden
$$$, Japanese, Sushi
4.5 KM FROM STATION
604.734.8971
octopusgardensada.com
Opus Bar
$$, Cocktails, Small Plates,
Breakfast
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.2107
opushotel.com
Salt Tasting Room
$$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.633.1912
salttastingroom.com
Wildebeest, Vancouver, BC
Sal y Limon
$, Mexican
2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.677.4247
salylimon.ca
Ask for Luigi
$$, Italian
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.428.2544
askforluigi.com
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie
$$$, Chinese
850 METERS FROM STA-
TION
604.688.0876
bao-bei.ca
Blue Canoe Waterfront
Restaurant
Richmond
$$, Seafood
21 KM FROM STATION
604.275.7811
bluecanoerestaurant.com
Bluewater Café
$$, Seafood
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.8078
bluewatercafe.net
Boulevard Kitchen
& Oyster Bar
$$$, Seafood, Steakhouse
2.6 KM FROM STATION
604.642.2900
boulevardvancouver.ca
Café at John Henry’s
$$, American
115 KM FROM STATION
604.883.2336
johnhenrysresortmarina.com
Catch Kitchen + Bar
Richmond
$$, Seafood, Sports Bar
21 KM FROM STATION
604.284.1222
catchkitchen.com
Chambar
$$$, Belgian, Breakfast
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.879.7119
chambar.com
Cioppino’s Mediterranean
Grill & Enoteca
$$$$, Mediterranean, Italian
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7466
cioppinosyaletown.com
Cuchillo
$$, Latin American
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.559.7585
cuchillo.ca
The Diamond
$$, Mexican
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.568.8272
di6mond.com
OUR PICK
Ember Indian Kitchen
Richmond
$$, Indian
20.2 KM FROM STATION
604.370.4485
emberikitchen.com
Fable Kitchen
$$, Canadian
4.4 KM FROM STATION
604.732.1322
fablekitchen.ca
The Fat Badger
$$, British
3.4 KM FROM STATION
604.336.5577
fatbadger.ca
The Flying Pig
$$, Canadian
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
theflyingpigvan.com
OUR PICK
Forty Ninth Parallel Café &
Lucky’s Doughnuts
$, Coffee, Donuts
1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.872.4901
49thparallelroasters.com
luckysdoughnuts.com
Jules
$$, French
1.7 KM FROM STATION
604.669.0033
julesbistro.ca
The Keefer Bar
$$$, Cocktails, Asian Small
Plates
850 METERS FROM
STATION
604.688.1961
thekeeferbar.com
Kintaro Ramen
$, Asian
3.8 KM FROM STATION
604.682.7568
Kirin
$$, Seafood, Dim Sum
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
kirinrestaurants.com
L’Abattoir
$$$, French, Canadian
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.568.1701
labattoir.ca
Lighthouse Pub
$$, Gastropub
70.1 KM FROM STATION
604.885.9494
lighthousepub.ca
Marutama Ramen
$$, Asian
3.6 KM FROM STATION
604.688.8837
marutamaramen.com
Molly’s Reach
$$, American, Seafood
47 KM FROM STATION
604.886.9710
mollysreach.ca
Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar
$$, Italian, Wine
4 KM FROM STATION
604.736.2220
novopizzeria.com
Savary Island Pie Company
$$, Bakery, Coffee
10.6 KM FROM STATION
604.926.4021
savaryislandpiecompany.com
Wildebeest
$$$, Gastropub, Canadian
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.687.6880
wildebeest.ca
Yaletown Brewing Co.
$$, Brewpub
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2739
mjg.ca
64 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
Auberge Vancouver Hotel
2.6 KM FROM STATION
604.678.8899
aubergevancouver.com
Barclay House
3.5 KM FROM STATION
604.605.1351
barclayhouse.com
Bee & Thistle Guest House
3.3 KM FROM STATION
604.669.0715
beeandthistle.ca
The Burrard
2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2331
theburrard.com
Coast Coal Harbour Hotel
2.7 KM FROM STATION
604.697.0202
coasthotels.com
OUR PICK
Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites
4.2 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7711
coasthotels.com
Coast Vancouver
Airport Hotel
9.3 KM FROM STATION
604.263.1555
coasthotels.com
English Bay Inn
5 KM FROM STATION
604.683.8002
englishbayinn.com
Executive Hotel LeSoleil
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.632.3000
hotellesoleil.com
The Burrard, Vancouver, BC
The Riviera on Robson
Suites Hotel
3.2 KM FROM STATION
604.685.1301
rivieravancouver.com
Rosewood Hotel Georgia
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5566
rosewoodhotels.com
St. Clair Hotel - Hostel
1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.648.3713
stclairvancouver.com
OUR PICK
Steveston Hotel
Richmond
21.3 KM FROM STATION
604.277.9511
jrg.ca
Summit Lodge
& Spa Whistler
Whistler
132 KM FROM STATION
604.932.2778
summitlodge.com
The Sylvia Hotel
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.9321
sylviahotel.com
Victorian Hotel
1.7 KM FROM STATION
604.681.6369
victorianhotel.ca
Wedgewood Hotel & Spa
2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.689.7777
wedgewoodhotel.com
Executive Hotel
Vintage Park
2.9 KM FROM STATION
1.800.570.3932
executivehotels.net
Fairmont Chateau
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
604.938.8000
fairmont.com
Fairmont Vancouver
Airport Hotel
13.5 KM FROM STATION
866.540.4441
fairmont.com/vancouverairport-richmond
Georgian Court Hotel
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5555
georgiancourthotel
vancouver.com
Granville House B&B
6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.739.9002
granvillebb.com
Granville Island Hotel
4.4 KM FROM STATION
604.683.7373
granvilleislandhotel.com
Hotel at the Waldorf
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.253.7141
hotelatthewaldorf.ca
Hotel Blue Horizon
2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.688.1411
bluehorizonhotel.com
The Kingston Hotel
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.684.9024
kingstonhotelvancouver.com
The Landis Hotel & Suites
3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.3555
landissuitesvancouver.com
L’Hermitage Hotel
2 KM FROM STATION
778.327.4100
lhermitagevancouver.com
The Listel Hotel
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.684.7092
thelistelhotel.com
Loden Hotel
3.4 KM FROM STATION
877.225.6336
theloden.com
Moon Dance Vacation
Rentals
107 KM FROM STATION
604.841.5805
moondance.travel
OPUS Vancouver
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.6787
opushotel.com
The Painted Boat Resort
Spa & Marina
101 KM FROM STATION
604.883.2456
paintedboat.com
Patricia Hotel
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.255.4301
patriciahotel.ca
Pinnacle Hotel Vanoucver
Harbourfront
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.689.9211
pinnacleharbourfronthotel.com
ontrakmag.com Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides: jenny@statehoodmedia.com
SUMMER 2018 | 65

Eat + Stay + Play
Bau-Xi Gallery
Contemporary Fine Art
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.733.7011
bau-xi.com
Beaty Biodiversity Museum
14.2 KM FROM STATION
604.827.4955
beatymuseum.ubc.ca
Bloedel Floral Conservatory
5.9 KM FROM STATION
604.257.8584
vancouver.ca
Britannia Heritage
Shipyards
Richmond
20.6 KM FROM STATION
604.238.8050
richmond.ca/britannia-hss.ca
Capilano Suspension
Bridge Park
10.7 KM FROM STATION
604.985.7474
capbridge.com
Craigdarroch Castle
Victoria
115 KM FROM STATION
250.592.5323
thecastle.ca
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical
Chinese Garden
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.662.3207
vancouverchinesegarden.com
OUR PICK
Granville Island
4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.666.6655
granvilleisland.com
Greater Vancouver Zoo
53.3 KM FROM STATION
604.856.6825
gvzoo.com
Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara
Parksville
111 KM FROM STATION
250.248.1838
grottospa.com
Gulf of Georgia
Cannery Museum
Richmond
21 KM FROM STATION
604.664.9009
pc.gc.ca/gulfofgeorgiacannery
H.R. MacMillan Space
Centre
4.9 KM FROM STATION
604.738.7827
spacecentre.ca
Museum of Vancouver
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.736.4431
museumofvancouver.ca
Science World at TELUS World of Science, Vancouver, BC
The Orpheum
2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.665.3050
vancouver.ca
Peak 2 Peak Gondola
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
1.888.403.4727
whistlerblackcomb.com
Pirate Adventures
4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.754.7535
pirateadventures.ca
Queen Elizabeth Theatre
1.6 KM FROM STATION
604.665.3050
vancouver.ca
OUR PICK
Richmond Olympic Oval
Richmond
14 KM FROM STATION
778.296.1400
richmondoval.ca
River Rock Casino Resort
Richmond
12.2 KM FROM STATION
877.473.8900
riverrock.com
Robson Street
2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.669.8132
robsonstreet.ca
Rockwood Adventures
7.4 KM FROM STATION
604.913.1621
rockwoodadventures.com
Rogers Arena
2 KM FROM STATION
604.899.7400
rogersarena.com
Science World at TELUS
World of Science
400 METERS FROM
STATION
604.443.7440
scienceworld.ca
Skookumchuck Narrows
Provincial Park
129 KM FROM STATION
604.885.3714
ENV.GOV.BC.CA/BCPARKS
Vancouver Art Gallery
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.662.4700
vanartgallery.bc.ca
Vancouver Aquarium
6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.659.3474
vanaqua.org
Vancouver Maritime
Museum
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.257.8300
vancouvermaritime
museum.com
Whistler Blackcomb
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
1.800.766.0449
whistlerblackcomb.com
66 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

EXP
SURE
Photo Contest
Homeward bound at Amtrak’s
station in Vancouver, Washington.
PHOTO BY STEPHANIE MCKENNA
Send us a photo that represents
your experience of the Pacific
Northwest for a chance to be
published here.
Submit your photo to
ontrakmag.com/exposure
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 67

VANCOUVER, BC
AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS
Vancouver, BC
Bellingham
Vancouver
by bike
page 40
Mount Vernon
Stanwood
Everett
Edmonds
The Sculpture
Woods
page 18
Seattle
Tukwila
Tacoma
Olympia/Lacey
Centralia
Kelso/Longview
Portland
Vancouver, WA
Oregon City
Salem
Albany
Spend a weekend
in Lake Oswego
page 36
Eugene
68 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

SEATTLE
TACOMA
OLYMPIA
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 69

PORTLAND
SALEM
EUGENE
70 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

We Get It:
Pets Are Family
That’s why we allow small dogs and cats
onboard with you. We know leaving home isn’t
fun when you are missing your best friend.
There is a weight limit. Pet weight, including the
carrier, is limited to 20 pounds. (Author’s note:
They still won’t let me bring my horses onboard,
which is annoying, but that doesn’t mean I won’t
keep asking.)
In all seriousness, we want to allow pets and
also be sensitive to all passengers. For this
reason, there are some requirements:
• Pets must remain in their carriers throughout
the trip.
• Pets are permitted in one Coach Car.
• Passengers must keep their pet carrier on the
floor in front of the aisle seat so the pet doesn’t
get too hot near the heater.
• Pet carriers are not permitted on train seats.
PET RESERVATIONS, FARES AND TICKETING
• Pet reservations can only be made with a
reservation agent at 1-800-USA-RAIL or at a
staffed station.
• The pet fare is $25 per reservation
($50 round-trip).
• Canada does not allow pets. Sorry!
There is more info you’ll want to know before
you take your first trip with your pet. Please visit
amtrakcascades.com/riders-guide and click on
“PETS” to see all the details.
Michelle and Helmut
Godfrey bask in the fresh
air and sunshine on the
platform at the Salem
Amtrak Cascades station.
ontrakmag.com SUMMER 2018 | 71

Parting Shot
EVERETT, WA
XFINITY Arena is situated in the heart of Everett’s downtown.
72 | SUMMER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Meet Friendly.
You’ll find kind greetings and easy conversation
around every corner and at every stop.
That’s the Tualatin Valley experience – locals who love to meet visitors and talk
about their passions. Travel along our Vineyard and Valley Scenic Tour Route,
where you’ll find great conversations about Oregon pioneers, organic produce,
berry farming, and, of course, winemaking. Whatever your interest, you’ll find a
warm welcome and friendly faces, just minutes away from Portland.
+1 800 537 3149 | tualatinvalley.org
Our friendly towns are the perfect home base for your scenic getaway.
Aloha | Banks | Beaverton | Cornelius | Durham | Forest Grove | Gaston | Helvetia | Hillsboro
King City | North Plains | Scholls | Sherwood | Tigard | Tualatin | Wilsonville