1859 Sept | Oct 2018

TRIP PLANNER: 

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September | October volume 53

150 timeless colors personally crafted by Joanna Gaines. 

Available at all Miller Paint Company locations. 

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Rainbow Valley: 

Where Your Ideas Come to Life. 

At Rainbow Valley, we want to design and build the best house for you. 

This client had a clear aesthetic vision, and through close collaboration 

with our Design/Build and Outdoor Spaces teams, she was able to 

make it a reality. The house was also designed with an eye to the future. 

Thanks to the sloping site, the basement pottery studio and guest loft 

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Ready for your custom home or remodel? Come to Rainbow Valley.

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A View From the Top 

photography by Shauna Intelisano 

Portland’s bridges are an iconic part of the city, 

each adding to its personality. The bridges also 

have tenders, who ensure, among other things, 

that pedestrians, drivers and the occasional 

climber are safe and that the massive structures 

lift and lower properly. It’s a job for the curious 

and the patient—we tell their stories on pg. 76. 

6 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018

Portland’s Hawthorne Bridge is one of the busiest 

bike and transit bridges in Oregon, with around 8,000 

bikes, 30,000 vehicles and countless pedestrians 

using it to cross the Willamette River each day. 

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 7

FEATURES 

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018 • volume 53 

70 

Green Living 

Oregon’s green building 

cred is strong and getting 

stronger. Check out some of the 

sustainable designs popping up 

around the state. 

written by Melissa Dalton 

76 

All Along The Watchtowers 

Next time you drive across one of 

Portland’s bridges, rest easy—someone 

is watching over you. Meet Portland’s 

bridge tenders. 

written by Scott Latta 

8 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018 

82 

Cutting Edge 

Ladies and gentlemen, sharpen your 

chainsaws. The McKenzie River 

Chainsaw & Arts Festival brings 

the world’s best chainsaw carvers 

together to coax art from logs. 

photography by Bradley Lanphear 

Jen G. Pywell

MENS • WOMENS • KIDS • CLOTHING • SHOES • GIFTS 

MENS WOMENS KIDS BABY CLOTHING SHOES TEXTILES GIFTS

98 

DEPARTMENTS 

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018 • volume 53 

Megan Morse 

John Valls 

LIVE 

22 NOTEBOOK 

Squeeze the last juice out of the good weather with our tidbits, then 

embrace the fall by curling up with the debut novel from Portland author 

Zulema Renee Summerfield. 

30 FOOD + DRINK 

What to quaff around an autumn fire, plan a fall road trip to eastern 

Oregon with our Weekend Wanderings, and get a head start on your winter 

coat by embracing beignets filled with Tillamook cheddar. 

36 FARM TO TABLE 

Kiwis in Oregon? Yep. Kiwi berries grow on about 125 acres around the state— 

learn more from Peter Dinsdale of Blue Heron Farm, outside Independence. 

44 HOME + DESIGN 

Got a small bathroom? Two designers show how they took tiny spaces and 

remodeled them into luxurious Mid-century escapes. Plus: learn how to 

make a terrarium to add mood to your bathroom. 

52 MIND + BODY 

Ultrarunner Ian Sharman started his career with one long walk. Now, he’s 

incorporating a love of Bend beer into his workout plans. 

54 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 

Estacada is a mural wonderland, thanks to Artback, an artists collective 

that creates a new one each year. 

THINK 

60 STARTUP 

After an Oregon State University professor lost his vision, he figured out 

new ways to continue his research—and ViewPlus was born. 

62 WHAT’S GOING UP 

To bring Hayward Field into the future, the University of Oregon has to get 

rid of one of the most iconic pieces of its past. 

64 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 

After a layoff during the recession, David Bantz started selling hazelnut 

shells. They have more uses than you might think. 

66 MY WORKSPACE 

Baseball fans, unite! Portland may not have an MLB franchise, but it does 

have Baseballism, one of the best merchandise stores around. 

52 

32 

17 

18 

110 

112 

Editor’s Letter 

1859 Online 

Map of Oregon 

Until Next Time 

68 GAME CHANGER 

Project Erase helps people leave the past behind by getting rid of 

regrettable tattoos. 

EXPLORE 

90 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 

In 1893, Sister Protasia Schindler planted a giant sequoia at her monastery. 

It still stands today, dwarfing everything around it. 

92 ADVENTURE 

After a climbing accident left Alysia Kezerian using a wheelchair, she 

changed the rules so she could keep adventuring. 

96 LODGING 

Minam River Lodge isn’t easy to get to—unplug and unwind in the 

wilderness. 

COVER 

photo by Bronson Studios Photography 

(see Green Living, pg. 70) 


98 TRIP PLANNER 

You know about Bend in the summer and the winter. Bend in the fall is 

where it’s really at. 

104 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 

A devastating wildfire that ripped through Sonoma County did nothing to 

dampen its spirit—or damage its ability to give visitors a great time.

CONTRIBUTORS 

SCOTT LATTA 

Writer 

All Along the Watchtowers 

BRADLEY LANPHEAR 

Photographer 

Gallery 

BETSY L. HOWELL 

Writer 

Travel Spotlight 

BRIAN HOLSTEIN 

Photographer 

My Workspace 

Everyone I talked to for this 

piece found the job the same 

way I found the story: because 

it sounded interesting. What 

all of us discovered in our 

own way is that it’s really a 

job about people. There’s 

something so human to 

me about sitting in solitude 

watching a city come alive 

around you. Something tender. 

I don’t think I’ve ever wanted to 

get a drink with someone more. 

(pg. 76) 

The McKenzie River Chainsaw 

Art Festival was particularly 

enjoyable to photograph, 

because when I’m not behind 

the camera, I’m usually in 

my wood shop. Everything 

I do revolves around art 

and craftsmanship, so this 

opportunity to watch some 

of the most skilled chainsaw 

carvers in the world was a real 

treat. Watching these artists 

from across the PNW take a log 

or a tree stump and transform 

it into a beautiful sculpture 

right before my eyes was 

something special. 

(pg. 82) 

I first visited Queen of Angels in 

the 1970s with my parents. My 

uncle was a monk at nearby Mt. 

Angel Abbey, and several of the 

Benedictine sisters were close 

friends of his. I returned in 1999, 

but it wasn’t until another visit 

in 2015 that I decided to write 

about the giant sequoia. The 

tree is a magnificent, peaceful 

presence, and I have been back 

twice more to draw from its 

wisdom and strength. 

(pg. 90) 

I’m grateful for the chance 

to explore a local business 

in Portland. I don’t follow 

baseball much, so prior to this 

assignment, I had walked by 

this place a number of times 

but never went in. I love the 

story behind these guys—just 

an organic brand following, 

and definitely part of an 

American dream. 

(pg. 66) 


I WORK FOR 

HOME 

SWEET 

HOME 

For you, satisfaction is seeing the team’s project come 

to life. At SAIF, our team finds satisfaction in building 

awareness for workplace health and safety. With quality 

workers’ comp insurance and tools to help businesses 

prevent injuries, SAIF strives to make Oregon the safest 

and healthiest place to call home. 

Protecting Oregon’s workforce. saif.com

EDITOR 

MANAGING EDITOR 

CREATIVE 

MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER 

OFFICE MANAGER 

DIRECTOR OF SALES 

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES 

HOME GROWN CHEF 

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Kevin Max 

Sheila G. Miller 

Allison Bye 

Kelly Rogers 

Cindy Miskowiec 

Jenny Kamprath 

Cindy Guthrie 

Jenn Redd 

Thor Erickson 

Jeremy Storton 

Melissa Dalton, Beau Eastes, Betsy L. Howell, Catie Joyce-Bulay, 

Scott Latta, Sophia McDonald, Mariah Miller, Chris Peterson, 

Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Jen Stevenson, Corinne Whiting, 

Mackenzie Wilson 

Anthony C. Castro, Brian Holstein, Shauna Intelisano, Bradley Lanphear, 

Megan Morse 

Statehood Media 

Mailing Address 

70 SW Century Dr. 

Suite 100-218 

Bend, Oregon 97702 

Portland Address 

1801 NW Upshur St. 

Suite 100 

Portland, Oregon 97209 

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photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs 

appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine 

and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily 

those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management. 


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FROM THE 

EDITOR 

LAST YEAR WAS the hottest year Oregon 

(and many other places around the globe) has 

experienced. If you think there’s no heating of 

this planet, better not look at any thermometers, 

heat indices or NOAA statistics on what’s 

happening outside your front door. 

If you’re like the rest of us, you’re doing your 

part, as small as it seems sometimes, to save our 

lifestyle and planet. Indeed, everything we write 

and photograph in 1859 and 1889 is climaterelated—from 

the grapes and hops we grow, to 

the forests we bike and ski in, to the ocean we 

walk and surf on our coast. 

In this issue of 1859, our Home+Design writer 

Melissa Dalton looks at the state of sustainable 

building through a number of inspiring projects 

across the state. Creative re-use of existing materials and 

the addition of solar power is one theme that is good for the 

resident and better for the world. 

On the agriculture front, we encounter the oddity of 

kiwis in Oregon. What? On Blue Heron Farm outside of 

Independence, Peter Dinsdale is growing kiwi berries, a 

smaller kiwi that you can eat like a berry, skin ’n’ all. Our 

Home Grown Chef, Thor Erickson, then takes these into 

their seasonally adjusted higher form of a Kiwitini for 

your pleasure. 

Also take a look at how ultrarunner Ian Sharman stays fit, 

avoids injury and keeps on running. He was not born this 

way—he started walking and failing before learning to run 

long distances. Read his story on page 52. 

For our travel features, Sheila Miller heads south to see 

what’s left of Sonoma County after its devastating fire last 

year. She finds it well intact and the home of densely packed 

tasting rooms that kept her busy for a weekend. 

We also look at a non-traditional season in Bend, the fall. 

Most of the tourists have receded and this mountain town 

shows off its emerging cultural side with a long-running film 

festival and its own twist on Oktoberfest—not to mention the 

emergent world cuisines popping up in new restaurants. It’s also 

one of the best times to be on Bend’s hallowed trail network, 

just biking and running to your heart’s content. Cheers! 


1859 ONLINE 

More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content 

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Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic 

Corridor near Brookings. 

#1859OREGON 

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Connect with us on social media by 

tagging your photos with #1859oregon. 

DIGITAL EXCLUSIVE 

Bradley Lanphear 

See what it takes to transform logs into art at the McKenzie River 

Chainsaw & Arts Festival in our exclusive online video. 

1859oregonmagazine.com/chainsawfestival 


NOTEBOOK 22 

FOOD + DRINK 30 

FARM TO TABLE 36 

HOME + DESIGN 44 

MIND + BODY 52 

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 54 

pg. 36 

Kiwis in Oregon? Absolutely. 

Anthony C. Castro

Blue skies for days... 

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notebook 

Tidbits + To-dos 

Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival 

The Lincoln City Fall Kite 

Festival takes place from 10 

a.m. to 4 p.m., October 6 and 

7 on the beach in the center 

town, on the D-River Wayside. 

Kids can make their own kites, 

and everyone can enjoy seeing 

some of the largest kites in 

the world being flown while 

you watch the running of the 

bols—a race to see who can 

run fastest into the wind while 

harnessed to a doughnutshaped 

kite. 

oregoncoast.org/lincoln-cityfall-kite-festival 

mark your 

calendar 

Botanical Bug Off Spray 

Summer may be almost over, 

but for those who still plan to hit 

the trails this fall, Suzi’s Bug-Off 

Spray is a must-have. It’s free of 

chemicals, like DEET, that you find 

in many commercial bug sprays, 

but still super effective, so that 

you and your family can enjoy 

the great outdoors. There is also 

a Bug-Off Stick for easy packing. 

suzislavender.com 

Whyld River DoggyBag 

Keep your pup cozy at the campsite with his very own sleeping 

bag. Whyld River’s DoggyBag was created to help keep your 

best friend warm on the coldest adventures around the Pacific 

Northwest. These lightweight bags pack up super small, making 

them easy to take on the trail. Plus, they are available in three sizes. 

whyld-river.com 


Fabulous 

natural light 

Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and 

estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as 

repair and restoration services. We also buy. 

87531 CHRISTMAS VALLEY HWY ∙ 541.576.2199 

86426 CHRISTMAS VALLEY HWY ∙ 541.576.2117 

Visit Us in Christmas Valley, Oregon 

Hours for both stores: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday 

Catch the Holiday Spirit! 

Cinnamon Bear Themed Cruises 

Christmas Ship Viewing 

www.portlandspirit.com Holiday Parties 

Group Rates 

Private Charters 

503-224-3900 

PortlandSpirit.com 

Portland Spirit Cruises & Events 

local family owned since 1994

notebook 

mark your 

calendar 

Trail Butter 

This real-food energy snack is the perfect thing to bring on your 

next trail hike or run. Packed full of instant whole-food nutrition, 

it’s guaranteed to fill you up and keep you going wherever your 

next adventure may take you. Convenient to-go pouches are 

available in three flavors. 

trailbutter.com 

Smith Rock Ranch Corn Maize 

mark your 

calendar 

The largest corn “maize” in Central Oregon opens on September 

29 in Terrebonne. The Smith Rock Ranch is a fabulous place to 

take the family to kick off the start of fall. The maize is open until 

6 p.m., Friday through Sunday. Other fun activities on the property 

include a pick-your-own pumpkin patch, pumpkin cannons, petting 

zoo, general store and more, plus food and drink vendors and live 

entertainment. 

Bridge of the Goddess Half Marathon & 10K 

The Bridge of the Goddess Half Marathon and 10K may 

be the most scenic run in Oregon, with its nonstop views 

and tree-lined forest paths. Fifteen hundred runners 

depart from the deck of Bridge of the Gods in Cascade 

Locks and travel along the Columbia River Highway Trail. 

At the finish line, pick up a finisher medal and enjoy some 

well-deserved lunch, beer and live music. The race starts 

at 8 a.m. on Sept. 15, so grab your girlfriends and get 

ready to run. 

runwithpaula.com/bridge-of-the-goddess-half-marathon-10k 

smithrockranch.com 


Visit Pendleton in two 

downtown Portland locations 

PENDLETON PARK AVE WEST 

825 SW Yamhill St, Portland, Or 

503-242-0037 

PENDLETON HOME STORE 

210 NW Broadway, Portland, Or 

503-535-5444

notebook 

Musician 

Raising the Bar 

Monica Huggett’s Portland Baroque 

Orchestra rises to new heights 

written by Ben Salmon 

Portland Baroque Orchestra 

MONICA HUGGETT IS ONE of the world’s leading Baroque 

violinists, an expert in the historically informed performance style, 

and the artistic engine behind the Portland Baroque Orchestra for 

the past twenty-four years. 

And just like anyone else, she had to get her start somewhere. 

For Huggett, that was the Pizza Express near her family’s home 

in London, England, where she played violin for £3 per night plus 

free pizza from ages 17 to 24. 

“By the time I stopped,” Huggett said with a hearty laugh, “I’d 

sort of had enough pizza for life.” 

Huggett, 65, has come a long way since then, and the PBO has 

come with her. The orchestra’s upcoming season—its 35th— 

will run from October through April and feature performances 

of works by Vivaldi, Telemann, Bach and more, plus the music 

of Latin America, Northern Europe and the Baroque period of 

England and France. The season will end with one of Huggett’s 

all-time favorite pieces, Mozart’s Jupiter symphony. 

In fact, it’s Huggett’s enthusiasm that drives much of the PBO’s 

programming each year. Raised as part of a hard-working and 

highly musical family, she listened to pop, rock, jazz, classical 

and beyond. 

“I loved it all,” she said. But when she started playing the modern 

violin, she never quite felt at home. Then, she discovered the 

Baroque violin—a violin from the Baroque period or modified to 

Baroque specifications—and historically informed performance, 

which aims to present classical music using the style, techniques 

and instruments of the day. The Baroque period is roughly defined 

as 1600 to 1750. 

Historical performance is a “very lively, very intense and much 

more communicative way of playing classical music,” Huggett said. 

“Sometimes, classical music feels like going to a museum. It’s almost 

like going to church—you worship these pieces that were icons of 

Western civilization.” 

A PBO performance has more in common with a rock concert, she 

said. Baroque music features strong rhythms and colorful textures. 

The period instruments—fitted with gut strings, among other 

adjustments—have a different temperament and timbre than their 

modern counterparts. Huggett works hard to imbue the orchestra’s 

four dozen members with the history behind pieces, as well as the 

stories they tell without words, which informs their playing. 

“Baroque music is like a conversation,” Huggett said. “I can 

actually put words to it. It’s like theater, (and) the more theatrical 

you can make the music, the more it translates to the audience.” 

The PBO formed in the early 1980s, and when Huggett took over 

as artistic director in the ’90s, it was more or less a semi-professional 

community orchestra full of historical performance buffs. Since 

then, “the standard has risen enormously,” she said, “to an orchestra 

that has international repute.” 

Huggett deserves credit for that, of course, but she is also quick 

to point out that she has grown artistically over the years, along 

with the PBO. Even with all her accumulated knowledge, skill and 

reputation, however, Huggett said she is still a rocker at heart. (She 

started out playing pop sessions in London, and can be heard on 

The Rolling Stones’ “Angie.”) 

“I adored Eric Clapton when I was young. Really, somewhere 

in me, I have the soul of a rock guitarist,” Huggett said. “When I 

started working on historical performance, I found an avenue to let 

out that intensity. Wanting to be exciting on stage. Wanting to be a 

real performer. That’s definitely a part of me.” 

MORE ONLINE 

Learn more about the Portland Baroque Orchestra and its upcoming 

2018-19 season at pbo.org 


OCTOBER 11-14, 2018 

CHANGE HAPPENS HERE. 

BendFilm.org

notebook 

Bibliophile 

Telling Stories 

Every Other Weekend takes us back in time 

interview by Sheila G. Miller 

PORTLAND AUTHOR Zulema Renee Summerfield is getting high praise 

for her first novel, Every Other Weekend. But a few years ago, she wasn’t 

sure she was cut out to write one in the traditional sense. So she didn’t. 

“I was really struggling with how I was going to write a novel,” she said. 

“At the time I didn’t tell stories in big, overarching plots. I was writing 

a lot of flash fiction.” After reading Love and Shame and Love, a novel 

composed of vignettes written by her mentor and colleague Peter Orner, 

she knew she could write her book the way she wanted. “Novels come in 

all kinds of shapes,” Summerfield said. “It really freed me to write a book 

in vignettes, and that’s how the structure was decided.” 

Zulema Renee Summerfield’s first novel is set in the ’80s. 

Tucker Sharon 

Tell us about the book. 

It’s a highly fictionalized retelling of 

some events that happened to me and 

my family when I was a young person. 

It’s told from the point of view of Nenny, 

who is 8 years old. Her parents are 

recently divorced and her mom is newly 

remarried to a man who has his own kids. 

So it’s about trying to figure out what 

that means to have two households and 

two separate lives and families broken 

apart and reblending. It’s basically about 

how families fracture and re-form and 

this young person trying to figure out 

her place in all of that. 

How did you get into that mid-’80s 

mindset that permeates the book? 

A lot of it is based on memory, and 

then just returning to some of those 

pop culture landmarks. I was watching 

a lot of ’80s sitcoms, I got some Time 

magazines from 1988 on eBay. It was just 

a lot of research. I didn’t listen to a ton 

of ’80s music when I was writing, but it 

was all kind of seeping in. I watched a lot 

of “Family Ties,” and that really helped 

trigger those memories. It was definitely 

really fun to revisit a lot of stuff that 

I hadn’t engaged with in years. Also, 

early on I was like, ‘Let’s see … Michael 

Jackson and The Cure,’ but that actually 

wasn’t really the stuff that I was into. 

My sister was super into Poison, my 

bedroom was plastered in Bret Michaels 

posters. That kind of became a theme. 

How did you get into writing and how 

have you made it a full-time gig? 

I started writing when I was a kid, like 10 

or 12. I was writing really crappy poems. 

I was always writing, but it wasn’t until I 

went to college for Spanish and dropped 

out, and then I went back for creative 

writing, and I started taking writing 

more seriously. 

I wouldn’t recommend it as a solid 

career path. I teach a lot and I tell this to 

my students all the time—the likelihood 

that you’re going to make a living writing 

fiction is pretty close to none. It’s the 

truth, and honestly I don’t know that 

one should pursue writing, or any of 

the arts, for money. That seems shallow, 

and not right. I don’t do it for the money 

and neither should you! 

You’ve been teaching and coaching 

writers for a long time—why does that 

appeal to you? 

It’s really important to me that everybody 

gets space to tell their version of their 

story. I feel like that’s something that 

we should all work together to make 

happen. I love to teach, I love engaging 

with people. I think it’s a symbiotic 

relationship and the right space where 

people are learning from each other. 

So that’s really important to me that 

everybody gets room to tell their story 

the way they need to tell it. 

“It’s really important to me that everybody gets space to tell 

their version of their story. I feel like that’s something that we 

should all work together to make happen.” 

— Zulema Renee Summerfield 


food + drink 

Cocktail Card 

recipe courtesy of Ransom Wine Co. 

& Distillery and Andrew Morse 

at Albany’s Vault 244 

Ransom Manhattan 

2 ounces Ransom Rye, Barley, 

Wheat Whiskey 

¾ ounce Ransom Sweet 

Vermouth 

¼ ounce Ramazzotti Amaro 

2 dashes orange bitters 

2 dashes aromatic bitters 

Combine all ingredients in a 

mixing glass. Stir with ice for 

twenty to thirty seconds, and 

strain into chilled cocktail glass. 

Squeeze a swath of orange peel 

over the glass to release the oils, 

then drop peel into drink. 

Beerlandia 

Beers Around an Autumn Fire 

written by Jeremy Storton 

As fall arrives, grilling and beer don’t need to take a back seat. 

ALTHOUGH THE DOG DAYS are behind us, visions of summer’s splendor 

flash across our memories like a late-night highlight reel. Lulled by warm days, 

many of us continue to push the outdoor barbecues in the evenings. But the 

chilly nights confirm that summer is indeed over. The days of summer salads 

and lagers may linger behind us, but a change of season invites a different, 

equally splendid experience. 

In fall, I find myself sitting fireside, wrapped in a blanket and tending to 

the various meats, veggies or paella grilling over the coals. Sometimes there 

is wine, but there is always beer. For me, there is something that excites my 

palate about pairing dark and brooding malty beers with the crackle of fire and 

the sizzle of steak. 

My goal is to curate the perfect beer “set list” for such occasions. Many beers 

will perform well, but which ones will strike the right chord when paired with 

grilled food, good tunes and the crisp night air? For me, the best beers will strike 

a balance between bitter hops, complex malt and quaff-ability. The beers below 

are a part of my revolving “set list” for such occasions. 

HAPPY HOUR 

Pelican Brewing’s Sea’ N Red Irish 

Style Red Ale (Pacific City): Malt 

forward, toasted biscuits and toffee with 

a slightly dry finish. 

Wild Ride Brewing’s Brenna A Amber 

Lager (Redmond): Complex dark malts 

with a balanced but spicy hop flavor 

filling in the back end, with a clean and 

crisp finish you’d expect from a lager. 

DINNER 

Ordnance Brewing’s FMJ IPA (Boardman): 

The complex maltiness of a 

British ale combined with the hops of a 

NW IPA with a dash of herbal note for 

good measure. 

Fort George Brewing’s Vortex IPA 

(Astoria): A very malt-centric tropical 

and citrus IPA that will pair with most 

food a fire can dish out. 

AFTER DINNER 

Feckin Brewery’s Top O’ The Feckin 

Mornin (Oregon City): Vanilla beans? 

Cold-brew coffee? Bourbon barrels? 

Steel-cut oats? Honestly, this Imperial 

milk porter is feckin’ perfect. 

Base Camp Brewing’s S’more Stout 

(Portland): Chocolate, coffee, sweet 

dried fruit and a hint of smoke. This 

beer is complex, boozy and delicious. 

Try it with a toasted marshmallow in 

your glass. 


food + drink 

Gastronomy 

Wild About Game 

written by Jen Stevenson 

RUN (AND EAT) wild with a thicketful of the Pacific Northwest’s best chefs at 

Nicky USA’s annual celebration of wild game and culinary camaraderie, returning 

on September 30 to the Mt. Hood Oregon Resort in Welches, Oregon. Now in its 

eighteenth year, the festival promises an impressive lineup of local cooking talent, 

from Castagna’s Justin Woodward and Aviary’s Sarah Pliner to Seattle chefs David 

Nichols (Rider) and Alex Barkley (Manolin). Against a backdrop of the Oregon 

high country’s brilliant fall foliage, guests sample gourmet meats, craft beers, 

charcuterie, spirits, cheeses, wine, cider, chocolate and coffee from nearly fifty top 

local purveyors including Olympia Provisions, Salt & Straw and Crowley Wines, 

plus meat-centric bites from more than a dozen acclaimed chefs like Gregory 

Gourdet of Departure and Kachka’s Bonnie Morales. The meaty merriment turns 

serious come the Carter Cutlery Cooking Competition, which pits four Portland 

chefs against four Seattle chefs, all vying for the coveted Overall Award title, claimed 

in years past by star chefs like Edouardo Jordan of JuneBaby, Gabriel Rucker of Le 

Pigeon and Gregory Denton of Ox. Wild About Game tickets are available online— 

if you plan to take the Cocktail Competition’s People’s Choice award judging 

responsibilities very seriously, consider reserving a room at the resort. 

nickyusa.com/wild-about-game 

mthood-resort.com 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Diners at Wild About Game. A plate at 

the event. Chef Philip Oswalt, right, of the Multnomah Athletic Club. 


WEEKEND WANDERINGS: 

EASTERN OREGON 

Photos: John Valls 

EN ROUTE 

In historic Pendleton, home to one of 

the country’s most famous rodeos every 

September, grab a bite at busy Sister’s 

Café before embarking on the entertaining 

90-minute Pendleton Underground Tour. 

Try a pint of Righteous Indignation red ale 

at Prodigal Son Brewery and Pub, or pair 

wood-fired pizza with one of the beakerbound 

house cocktails at Oregon Grain 

Growers Brand Distillery, then head a 

mile east to the Pendleton Woolen Mill, 

which offers four free weekday tours, no 

reservations necessary. In La Grande, sip 

Walla Walla rosé at charmingly renovated 

Wine Down café and wine bar, then eat 6 

Ranch grass-fed beef burgers and smoked 

aioli-drizzled dirty fries alongside the local 

college kids at Side A Brewing, set inside 

the historic La Grande Firehouse, just off 

the main drag. 

EAT + DRINK 

Brake for Oregon berry shakes and 

Clown Cones at Wallowa’s delightfully oldfashioned 

Little Bear Drive-In, then shop 

everything from local seasonal produce 

to hand-carved apple heads at eclectic, 

century-old M. Crow & Co. general store 

in nearby Lostine. Ten minutes southeast, 

stock up on red raspberry seed oil and 

citrus sunrise body butter at Wild Carrot 

Herbals in downtown Enterprise, then 

claim a table in the grassy creekside garden 

at Terminal Gravity Brewery and Pub and 

tuck into brews and buffalo burgers. 

In small but mighty Joseph, stroll the 

cheerful main street, which offers an 

impressive variety of culinary and retail 

amusements. After sipping your morning 

latte or green smoothie creekside at Red 

Horse Coffee Traders, queue up for a 

patio table and sausage-stuffed Swedish 

pancakes at Old Town Cafe, where they 

don’t skimp on the cinnamon roll icing. 

After browsing the botanical goods at 

Beecrowbee and the truffle case at 

Good Food Award-winning Arrowhead 

Chocolates, stop into East Fork Brewery 

for thick, juicy Stangel Ranch bison burgers 

and pints of Cross-Eyed Cricket IPA. Slurp 

post-lunch soft serve at R&R Drive-In, work 

your way through a whiskey flight at Stein 

Distillery (call ahead to book a tour), then 

tour the meticulously curated Wallowa 

County Museum, where you’ll be urged to 

partake of the docents’ homemade punch 

and cookies. For dinner, head ten minutes 

south to Wallowa Lake, where the fetching 

Swiss-Bavarian architecture has earned 

the area the nickname “Oregon’s Little 

Switzerland.” Join the reservations-only 

crowd at cozy Vali’s Alpine Restaurant, 

which offers two dinner seatings and 

one Hungarian-themed entrée nightly, 

plus homemade doughnuts on weekend 

mornings—don’t dally, they sell out fast. 

End the evening back in town with live 

music on the patio at popular Embers 

Brew House, which claims the largest 

selection of microbrews in Eastern Oregon. 

Take the long way home through darling 

Dayville, where the Dayville Cafe serves up 

hearty slices of homemade country pie at 

country prices. Across the street, procure 

provisions or get a flat fixed at Dayville 

Mercantile, a 122-year-old former school, 

saloon and dance hall-turned general 

store and bike shop. In tiny Kimberly, take 

the rutted road to Thomas Orchards, 

where the breezy farm store sells justpicked 

stone fruit and cherries, Triple H 

Homestead’s raw cow’s milk cheeses, and 

local honey. In sweet small-town Condon, 

browse the smallest branch of Powell’s 

Books and get scoops of Huckleberry 

Heaven ice cream at Country Flowers gift 

and coffee shop, then move on to Maupin 

to ride the Deschutes River rapids with the 

Imperial River Company before digging in 

at their resort restaurant. 

SLEEP WELL 

In Joseph, The Jennings Hotel combines 

the region’s rich history with modern 

style—set inside a turn-of-the-century 

landmark building on Main Street, each 

of the boutique hotel’s twelve rooms is 

curated by a different Oregon artist or 

designer, there’s a cedar sauna just off 

the main hallway, and the common area 

combines a full kitchen, wood-burning 

fireplace, and well-stocked library and 

record collection. For big views and a dose 

of nostalgia, book a lake-facing room or 

cabin at the historic Wallowa Lake Lodge, 

where guests curl up by the grand stone 

fireplace in the main lodge on crisp fall 

evenings. To live that ranch life, check into 

the homey Wilson Ranches Retreat in 

Fossil, a 9,000-acre working cattle ranch 

with a 1910 Sears Roebuck ranch house 

turned six-room bed and breakfast. After 

a hearty home-cooked breakfast in the 

dining room, take a horseback ride through 

Butte Creek Valley, hike the high desert 

hills or just read a Louis L’Amour novel in 

the hammock.

food + drink 

BEST PLACES FOR 

FALL FORAGING 

SOKOL BLOSSER 

Not just a pretty patio for sipping and soaking in 

valley views, the Sokol Blosser family’s esteemed 

Dundee Hills winery is home to one of the finest 

kitchens in the Willamette Valley. When executive 

chef Henry Kibit isn’t dishing up savory parsley root 

custard topped with salmon roe and licorice fern and 

slabs of tender brisket over fried wild nettles, he’s 

roaming the miner’s lettuce and morel-strewn hills 

behind the vineyard, collecting seasonal treasures 

to incorporate into the six-course Farm & Forage 

wine pairing luncheons he serves in an intimate, sunsplashed 

space behind the tasting room. 

5000 NE SOKOL BLOSSER LN. 

DAYTON 

sokolblosser.com 

RACK & CLOTH 

Exit I-84 onto the Historic Columbia River Highway 

just east of Hood River and mosey into tiny Mosier, 

an unexpected treasure trove of antique shops, 

cideries and this charming farm-to-table restaurant, 

taproom and market. Taste husband-wife team Silas 

Bleakley and Kristina Nance’s handcrafted smallbatch 

hard ciders made with apples from their nearby 

farm, pick up a dozen eggs or stay for a wood-fired 

pizza topped with heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn 

and basil. Don’t leave without an armful of fresh-cut 

flowers, just-picked stone fruit and garden greens, or 

ask about buying shares of the farm’s pasture-raised 

pork and lamb. 

1104 1ST AVE. 

MOSIER 

rackandcloth.com 

RESTAURANT BECK 

Renowned for both his impeccable plating and deep 

commitment to local and foraged ingredients, James 

Beard Award-nominated chef Justin Wills serves some 

of the most intriguing food on the Oregon Coast, with 

a side of spectacularly scenic Whale Cove views from 

the light-filled dining room tucked inside luxurious 

Whale Cove Inn. As the compressed cucumber and 

mint sorbet of summer make way for fall fare, expect 

celery root macarons, roasted cauliflower panna cotta 

and foie gras, lettuce and tomato (FLT) sandwiches. 

Opt for the wine pairing with your chef’s tasting menu, 

or a bottle of Brick House Vineyards pinot noir— 

co-owner and sommelier Stormee Wills curates an 

Oregon Wine Board award-winning list that devotes 

plenty of space to Oregon vintages, at a very nice price. 

2345 US-101 

DEPOE BAY 

restaurantbeck.com 

Alan Weiner Photography 

Dining 

OK Omens 


NO LONGER Café Castagna, but still Castagna’s café, this lively new Ladd’s 

Addition wine bar retains the same sleek look (and beloved patio) as its 

predecessor, while debuting a playfully scholarly natural-wine-centric list to 

pair with James Beard Award-nominated Castagna chef Justin Woodward’s 

simple but superlative new bistro menu. Settle in for a late summer evening 

at one of the garden-side tables, inches from fragrant plumes of fresh mint 

and lemon verbena, and enlist the help of spirited sommelier Brent Braun, 

who won’t steer you wrong on the perfect bottle to go with Woodward’s 

burnt-beet-topped steak tartare, grilled squid with chicory and Thai basil, 

and buttermilk fried chicken with spicy greens and hot sour cream. Like 

the savory offerings, desserts are often twists on dishes served next door as 

part of Woodward’s modernist tasting menus. They shouldn’t be missed, 

particularly the Pacojet-pureed concoction of housemade chocolate sable 

cookies, heavy cream and macerated Oregon strawberries, splashed with a 

balsamic vinegar reduction, dusted with sable crumbs and aptly described 

on the menu as “kinda like a Blizzard.” Those concerned about the fate of 

the famous Café Castagna burger may have mixed feelings about its new 

incarnation, but it’s hard not to love a slab of beef slathered in smoked 

beef fat remoulade. If lingering over after-dinner drinks, sip the Scissors & 

Sidewalks, a light, effervescent, dangerously drinkable mix of Pineau des 

Charentes, Dolin blanc vermouth and lemon. Stay long enough (the wine 

bar’s open daily until midnight), and you might just end up joining one of 

the bar staff’s impromptu late-night dance parties. 

1758 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD. 

PORTLAND 

okomens.com 

OK Omen’s beignets are filled with Tillamook cheddar. 


28 th Annual 

Grape Stomp 

Championship 

& Harvest 

Celebration 

September 

22 & 23 

HOME, GARDEN & GIFT 

532 Olive Street • 541-342-6820 

Mon-Sat 10-6 • Sunday 10-5 

Eugene, Oregon 

downtoeartheugene.com 

Down To Earth is the premier shopping destination 

for unique gifts in the heart of Eugene. Look for 

the old checkerboard silo atop the historic 

Farmers’ Union Marketplace – 

just one block north of 

the Hult Center. 

Take a Behind-the-Scenes Winery Tour 

this Harvest! 

Join us this harvest season for a 

Private Tour & Tasting to learn 

how our wines are handcrafted. 

Enjoy stories and exclusive wine 

offerings. $20 per person includes 

tour, tasting and cheese pairings. 

Call 503-588-9463 to reserve your spot. 

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 6 PM 

©Alex Partovi Photography 

Wine Tasting | Daily Winery Tours | Food Pairings Menu 

WillametteValleyVineyards.com 

8800 Enchanted Way SE · Turner, OR 503-588-9463 · info@wvv.com 

Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower 

DTE 1859 Magazine SepOct2018 

the 

Truffles 

are 

coming... 

Eugene and Surrounds 

January 24 – 27, 2019 

Yamhill Valley 

Wine Country 

February 15 – 17, 2019 

Tickets on sale 

September 1, 2018 

oregontrufflefestival.org 

evocative 

delicious 

sensual

farm to table 

Farm to Table 

Crazy for Kiwi 

Growing this tropical fruit is possible in Oregon 

written by Sophia McDonald 

photography by Anthony C. Castro 


farm to table 

Peter Dinsdale with his son, Ben, at Blue Heron Farm near Independence. The farm has 11 acres of kiwis. 

OREGON IS KNOWN for producing world-class berries 

from spring to early summer. But come September, a strangelooking 

variety briefly appears for about two weeks. They’re 

tan globes about the size of a grape. Each has a sweet-tart flavor 

and a smooth skin that’s entirely edible. 

Cut one open and the mystery is solved. The flesh of these tiny 

fruits is lime green and dotted with tiny black seeds. They’re 

known as kiwi berries, baby kiwi or hardy kiwi, and they’re kin 

to the fuzzy-skinned fruit commonly found in grocery stores. 

Oregon is the country’s top producer of this unusual fruit— 

which is to say there are a handful of farmers growing them on 

about 125 acres. 

Peter Dinsdale with Blue Heron Farm near Independence 

explains how this micro-industry came about. A berry farmer 

named Mark Hurst was interested in selling them through his 

wholesale business and was looking for partners willing to raise 

them. He’d already taken some to an international produce 

marketing conference and won rave reviews. “They were the 

sensation of the show,” Dinsdale said. “People really liked them 

and wanted more.” The fruit is tasty but it’s also quite healthy, 

packing a punch of vitamin C, folate, potassium and other 

nutrients. Combine that with their intriguing appearance, and 

it’s no wonder people were interested. 

Dinsdale, who was already growing a variety of berries on 

his farm, decided to give kiwis a go. In many ways, they were a 

good fit with his other crops. They could be pruned right after 

the blueberries in the winter and harvested in September after 

all the blackberries had ripened. That would allow him to keep 

his staff onboard and busy for a longer period of time. 

In 1994, he planted 11 acres of thick-stalked kiwi berry plants 

between trellises with stakes the diameter of telephone poles 

(the vines that shoot up from the trunks are so strong they can 

pull down a structure that’s poorly built). In 1995, he dug up all 

the plants, fumigated the soil to rid it of a fungal disease that 

could kill the kiwis, and replanted. 

This inauspicious beginning hinted at more challenges to 

come. Pollinating the vines proved difficult. Dinsdale’s son, 

Ben, has taken to traipsing under the trellises every year in 

what he calls a “bee suit”—a modified snow blower 

that shoots pollen over the vines and gives nature a 

leg up. Although the kiwis are a cold-tolerant variety 

from Siberia, they’re very susceptible to frost after 


farm to table 

FROM LEFT Peter Dinsdale started growing kiwi fruit in 1994. Ben Dinsdale holds a bin of kiwi berries at Blue Heron Farm. 

bud break. Dinsdale has lost plenty of fruit to chilly spring 

mornings. In addition, the market for kiwi berries hasn’t taken 

off the way its early American champions hoped it would. “The 

returns have been acceptable,” he said. “It’s sort of worth it.” 

Given his investment in this crop, tearing out the plants 

would not be worth it, he believes. Besides, they’ve grown on 

him after all these years. “I find it an aesthetically pleasing crop, 

with the large canopy and the trellises and the way the vines 

twine around everything,” he said. The plants have exfoliating 

bark that flakes and peels all along the trunks, which gives 

them a rugged and appealing look. 

And like most people, he’s quite taken by the taste of the 

berries. “I’m a nut about eating fresh fruit,” he said. “The nice 

thing about these is when we’re finishing picking, there’s still 

kiwis out here until the first hard frost. So I can keep coming 

out here and picking a cupful for fresh eating. They’ll be ripe 

and sweet on the vine until then.” 

Dr. Bernadine Strik, the berry crops research leader at the 

North Willamette Research and Extension Center in Aurora, 

has long been a champion of kiwi berries. She confirms and 

expands on many of the challenges Dinsdale has faced growing 

them. The plants aren’t quite cold-hardy enough, and the tender 

vines are susceptible to breaking when gusty winds come up. 

“Pollination is a problem because bees like kiwi, but they like 

raspberries and blackberries better.” 

But she, too, hopes the hardy kiwi industry in Oregon will 

grow. “It’s an expensive crop to grow because you need lots of 

labor per acre to prune and harvest them, and the plants and 

trellises are expensive,” she said. “But it’s a high-value crop even 

if it’s small.” 

Kiwis of all sorts are most commonly used in desserts. Chef 

Ryley Eckersley with Quaintrelle, a North Portland restaurant 

that specializes in New American cuisine, suggests making 

them into a compote with rhubarb and serving it atop vanilla 

panna cotta. 

Another option is to cook them in a simple syrup and use 

that as the base for a summery cocktail. Bartender Camille 

Cavan from Quaintrelle calls her kiwi-inspired concoction 

Long Time Gone, and it gets its own sweet-tart flavor from 

Pimms liqueur, ginger liqueur and lime juice. 

“I’m a nut about eating fresh fruit. The nice thing about these is 

when we’re finishing picking, there’s still kiwis out here until the first 

hard frost. So I can keep coming out here and picking a cupful for 

fresh eating. They’ll be ripe and sweet on the vine until then.” 

— Peter Dinsdale 


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farm to table 

Oregon Recipes 

Incorporating Kiwi 

photography by Anthony C. Castro 

Long Time Gone Cocktail 

PORTLAND / Quaintrelle 

Camille Cavan 

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL 

1 ½ ounces Pimms 

¼ ounce ginger liqueur 

¾ ounce lime juice 

½ ounce kiwi syrup (see recipe below) 

2 ounces Fever Tree ginger ale 

1 dash angostura bitters 

Shake Pimms, liqueur, lime juice, kiwi and 

bitters, then strain into a Collins glass. 

Top with ginger ale and garnish with three 

slices of kiwi berries, lime twist and large 

mint sprig. 

TO MAKE KIWI SYRUP 

Simmer 2 cups of 1:1 simple syrup with 

4 kiwi berries, sliced. Let simmer for 45 

minutes, then let sit for 24 hours. Fine 

strain the syrup, discarding the berries. 

Vanilla Panna Cotta with Kiwi Berry and Rhubarb Compote 

PORTLAND / Quaintrelle 

Ryley Eckersley 

SERVES 8 

FOR PANNA COTTA 

16 ounces heavy cream 

¾ cup sugar 

1 vanilla bean 

8 grams gelatin 

16 ounces buttermilk 

FOR COMPOTE 

16 ounces rhubarb 

16 ounces kiwi berries 

10 ounces sugar 

4 ounces Cocchi Americano aperitif 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 

Sachet with 1 star anise, cinnamon 

stick and 5 pink peppercorns 

MORE ONLINE 

Find additional recipes at 1859oregonmagazine.com/recipes 

FOR PANNA COTTA 

Heat cream, sugar and scraped vanilla 

until 125 degrees. Bloom gelatin in cold 

water for about 3 minutes and strain and 

add to cream mixture. Run through a 

fine mesh chinois or sieve and pour into 

whatever molds you like. 

FOR COMPOTE 

Chop rhubarb into inch-long pieces and 

cut berries in half. Cook until the rhubarb 

has softened in the cocchi and with the 

sachet. Add lemon. Add a splash of water 

during cooking if it appears to need it. 

Once panna cotta has chilled, spoon 

the compote over the top and cover 

with chopped salted almonds. 


Mukilteo Lighthouse Festival Sept 7, 8, 9 | Music, Food, Fireworks & Fun for all ages 

Japanese Gulch Trails Harbour Pointe Golf Club 4 Aviation Museums

farm to table 

Home Grown Chef 

Kiwis … in Oregon? 

written by Thor Erickson 

photography by Megan Morse 

BEFORE I TALK about kiwis, I need to 

be completely honest. When the editors 

of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine proposed that 

I write about kiwis, I though they had lost 

their minds. 

Kiwis? In Oregon? Really? I went home and 

binge-watched “Flight of the Conchords” 

while I did some research. After a healthy 

dose of Bret and Jemaine, I soon found that 

kiwis do grow in Oregon, and are becoming 

quite popular. 

Kiwi berries (also known as hardy kiwi, 

grape kiwi or cocktail kiwi) are smoothskinned 

and much smaller in size than their 

furry cousins from New Zealand. I drove out 

to Dundee to HB&K farms to pick a few for 

myself. The strawberry-sized kiwi berries, 

or Actinidia arguta, are not genetically 

modified minis, but their own perennial 

vine, native to Japan, China and Russia. 

Kiwi berries have a short growing season, 

typically September and October. As I filled 

my pail, I sampled a few of these sweet little 

fruits. They do not require the peeling of 

the furry skin that we are used to doing to 

prepare kiwis. “Just pop ’em in yer mouth!” 

one of the farmers recommended. In doing 

so, I tasted the sweet, acidic balance that 

kiwis are famous for. My head started to 

flood with ideas of how to use these little 

beauties—salads, jams, pies. … I know, I just 

roasted grapes in the last issue, but seriously, 

roast these kiwis and serve them warm over 

vanilla ice cream. You’re welcome. 

Picking kiwis in the hot sun is a lot of 

work. Time for a cocktail! 

The Oregon Kiwitini 

Thor Erickson 

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL 

3 ounces vodka 

3 Oregon kiwi berries 

2 teaspoons simple syrup 

Ice 

In a cocktail shaker, muddle 

the kiwi berries with simple 

syrup to release the fruit’s 

juice. Add ice and vodka. 

Shake well, then strain into a 

well-chilled cocktail glass. 

Garnish with a couple kiwi 

berries on a cocktail pick. 


home + design 

Little and Luxe 

Two Portland homes pack a lot of luxury into 

remodels of their small Mid-century bathrooms 



home + design 

The West Hills bathroom has sealed marine 

plywood to make it more modern. 

A Modern Take on a West Hills Mid-century 

Christopher Dibble 

WHEN A COUPLE bought this rambler in Portland’s West Hills, it 

still held much of its Mid-century charm, which the new owners loved. 

Soaring ceilings clad in cedar in the living room? Check. Original 

kitchen cabinets in excellent shape? Yes, please. Unfortunately, their 

swooning stopped upon seeing the master bathroom. “The house 

was built in 1954, and I don’t think the bathrooms had ever been 

touched,” said Stewart Horner, principal designer at Penny Black 

Interiors, who worked with the homeowners on a refresh. “It was 

pretty much as it had been for fifty-plus years, and it wasn’t pleasant.” 

First, there was the room’s unappealing Jack-and-Jill layout. A 

popular treatment during the Mid-century era, it meant the bathroom 

was shared between the parents’ bedroom and their daughter’s, 

ensuring privacy for no one. Drab tile and a claustrophobic “cubicle” 

of a shower compounded the need for a complete do-over. Horner 

and Look Construction teamed up to gut the space, then reconfigure 

it as a self-contained master suite. 

Even after borrowing a bit of space from a nearby room, the new 

bathroom clocked in around 80 square feet. The homeowners’ wish 

list included a deep tub, double vanity and rain showerhead, all of 

which Horner was able to fit, while weaving in a modern aesthetic 

that jives with the home’s excellent Mid-century bones. “I call it 

more modern than ‘Mid,’” he said. “That was the brief: to work with 

this classic Mid-century architecture but make it more modern 

than Mid-century.” 

Horner started with an interesting palette. “We wanted to use 

materials that were a little unusual,” he said. Now, the custom 

double vanity and tub surround are fabricated from sealed marine 

plywood, the edges exposed for a modern look. To safeguard water 

resilience, the surround was topped with a thin layer of Formica 

veneer that stretches all the way up the wall in the open shower. 

There, a glass enclosure has an angled edge. “It’s wider at the bottom 

and narrower at the top, which actually creates a really interesting 

look,” Horner said. He specified a clever cutout in the glass so the 

homeowners can reach in and turn on the shower without getting 

a face full of water. 

Small details add up to make the room feel spacious and luxe. A 

large frameless glass mirror hangs over the vanity, itself hovering 

about 8 inches above the floor. “Visually that gives you more space 

because you can see more of the floor,” Horner said. Sconces installed 

over the glass and nearby floating shelves afford more airiness, while 

brushed brass hardware and faucets lend a burnished shine that’s 

warmer than the typical chrome. 

The adjacent master bedroom boasts wallpaper on the ceiling 

and show-stopping artwork, and the connected bathroom delivers 

personality in equally unexpected ways. Take the bespoke “Bubble 

Hex” tile backsplash from Portland maker Clayhaus Ceramics. The 

dramatic dimensional pieces and striking white and gray gradient 

are an inspired take on 1960s pop art, to fashion justthe-right 

mix of modern and “Mid” that Horner and the 

homeowners sought. “It’s the showpiece of the whole 

space,” Horner said of the tile. “It’s the perfect fit.” 


home + design 

Photos: Luke and Mallory Leasure 

FROM LEFT The floor tile runs from the shower through the rest of the bathroom. The 

fixtures are all combined on one wall-mounted unit. 

A Deliberate Remodel in Alameda 

Kenneth Birkemeier was a designer and builder working 

from the 1930s to the 1970s. He erected around 700 custom 

houses and apartments, many in the Northeast neighborhoods 

of Portland. Many of his Mid-century designs were dubbed the 

“houses of tomorrow,” yet Birkemeier had a solid appreciation 

of old-world craftsmanship and used it in many of his 

builds, such as where he incorporated Craftsman-style builtins 

fashioned from natural wood. When interior designer 

Courtney Nye set out to remodel the master bath in this 

Birkemeier-designed Alameda home, foremost in her mind 

was to modernize it without compromising his approach of 

blending the past and future. “We wanted to update but still 

tie in with the rest of the house and have a little ode to what it 

was before,” Nye said. 

The master bathroom presented challenges. For starters, the 

room was cramped and a singular shade of teal, from the tile 

floor to the sink to the toilet. Even after borrowing an extra 2 

feet of space from a nearby closet, the entire layout was a mere 

65 square feet. “Still, we were able to work within the small 

footprint and maximize the feel of it,” Nye said. 

First, she swapped the placement of the fixtures and 

combined the sink and toilet into one sleek, space-saving wallmounted 

unit. Doing so enabled her to extend the countertop 

across the entire length of the piece and fit in a generous, 40- 

inch trough sink. A custom recessed medicine chest above the 

basin contains a large mirror, lights, and both open and closed 

storage. “I wanted to integrate as many components into one 

so that we wouldn’t have too many stops and starts, which 

could make the space feel smaller,” Nye said. 

Next, she exchanged a dark, confined shower for one that 

occupies the entire side of the room, streamlining it with a glass 

partition. By dropping the shower’s entry threshold to zero 

clearance, the floor tile now runs unobstructed throughout 

the room, creating the illusion of more space. White tile with 

a light-colored grout further prevents the tableau from feeling 

too busy. “I kept the floor and wall tiles white just to make it 

feel more open and bright,” Nye said. 

Her finish selections read modern yet timeless, since 

she aimed to reference the home’s current and previous 

incarnations. The natural white oak of the built-in vanity syncs 

with the home’s original oak floors. The tile backsplash behind 

the sink is a beautiful green that recalls the bathroom’s former 

teal palette and complements the tones of the wood. 

The end result accommodates the homeowners’ entire 

wish list—including luxuries like the double sink and a 

towel warmer—to conjure a true master suite, yet still 

flows seamlessly with the historical house thanks to Nye’s 

unwavering eye. Achieving such an elegant balance between 

the past and future, craftsmanship and modern function, we 

think Birkemeier would have approved. 


HUGE SAVINGS ON: 

• CABINETS 

• COUNTERTOPS 

• WINDOWS 

• DOORS 

GRAND OPENING 

PARR DESIGN CENTER - BEND 

Fall Into Savings Event 

Builders & Remodelers, 

Don’t Miss out on These Incredible Savings! 

Saturday, September 15 th ~ 9am-4pm 

• Complimentary Lunch 

11am - 1pm 

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©2018 California Closet Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Franchises independently owned and operated. OR203209 

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home + design 

DIY: How To Make a Terrarium 

NOTHING PRETTIES THE BATHROOM like a little plant life. Following these easy tips, terrariums 

can be made with materials bought from specialty terrarium shops, pet and aquarium stores, 

home improvement destinations and the nursery. 

1 

PICK A CONTAINER 

CHOOSE A PLANT 

2 

Whether it’s a vintage cloche from an antique 

mall or an ordinary fish bowl, pick a clear glass 

container that will offer plenty of space for the 

plants and transmit enough light to encourage 

growth. If choosing a container with a lid, make 

sure it won’t be sitting in the direct sun, as that 

can kill the plants inside. 

POUR THE FOUNDATION 

Cover the bottom with small rocks to encourage 

drainage. Pour in a layer of sand, using a funnel to 

keep the grains neat. Have fun choosing the colors 

of these elements, since they will be visible. Next, 

add activated charcoal pellets, usually available at 

a nursery or aquarium store. Then top everything 

off with enough soil for the plant’s roots to thrive. 

A good rule of thumb is to set the foundational 

layers at about one-third of the vessel, to keep the 

overall composition balanced and leave enough 

room for growth. 

4 

5 

Opt for a specimen that will enjoy the bathroom 

humidity, flourish with the room’s lighting conditions 

and grow fairly slowly, so it doesn’t crowd out of 

the container too quickly. Good choices for a humid 

spot are ferns and tropical houseplants. 

LAYER IN CONTRAST 

Once the plant is in place, top the foundation with 

other materials that will contrast with its size and 

leaf structure. These can be colored pebbles, coral 

and shells, small pieces of driftwood, crystals and 

geodes, moss and lichen, or even found objects, like 

small figurines. Leave empty space around the plant 

so it remains the natural focal point. 

MAINTAIN 

Don’t forget to water the plant according to its 

needs. Place your composition on a shelf in the 

bathroom, on the corner of the vanity, or hang from 

the wall or ceiling, and enjoy! 


home + design 

Design Finds 

Get the modern ‘Mid’ look of the West Hills bath 

Go bold with Clayhaus Ceramics’ Futura Collection. It’s 

comprised of five different tile designs that can be mixed 

and matched in a rainbow of glazes, all with a distinctive 

three-dimensional quality to their surface. 

clayhaustile.com 

There’s no need to have disparate packaging around when 

the cotton balls and Q-tips can be decanted into these chic 

stoneware vessels, available in a variety of sizes. Offered in 

either white or black and topped with low-profile acacia lids, 

they’ll create a much more cohesive display. 

rejuvenation.com 

For a minimalist treatment similar to the floating light 

fixtures in the West Hills bath, try the Baird Aged 

Brass Sconce from Hudson Valley Lighting, which 

combines a simple brass base with an oversized 

orbital shade. Pick it up at Globe Lighting, an outpost 

for fine lighting in the Pacific Northwest since its first 

store opened in Portland in 1978. 

globelighting.com 


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mind + body 

Ian Sharman at the finish 

of a 16-hour race. 

Grit, Training 

and Bend Beer 

Ian Sharman takes a more casual 

approach to ultrarunning 

written by Mackenzie Wilson 


mind + body 

Ian Sharman 

Pro Ultrarunner 

and Head Coach 

at SharmanUltra.com 

Age: 37 

Born: Northampton, 

England 

Residence: Bend 

Sharman trains other ultrarunners. 

HOW DOES AN economist from London who’s lived most of his life at sea 

level transform into an ultrarunner capable of conquering 100-milers above 

10,000 feet? For Ian Sharman, 37 and of Bend, it all started with walking. 

In 2005, Sharman was living in London 

and saw a TV show highlighting the 

Marathon des Sables race, 150 miles in six 

stages over seven days. It made him wonder 

if he could do something like that. He played 

sports growing up, but had never focused 

on running. “On the TV show, I saw people 

walking most of it and I thought, I’m sure I 

can walk for a week, that doesn’t seem like 

a big deal.” 

The next year, Sharman signed up 

for the race. During stage three he got 

hyponatremia—dangerously low levels of 

sodium in his blood—and had to drop out. 

Two years later he finished thirteenth, the 

highest a Brit had ever placed at that point 

in the race’s history. By 2011, Sharman was 

a sponsored ultrarunner specializing in 

100-mile trail races. 

Even with loads of titles to his name, 

Sharman couldn’t avoid the reality of 

ultrarunning as a profession. “About three 

months in, I was like, ‘Oh, this doesn’t really 

pay anything, so I have to do something 

else,’” he said. 

Fellow U.K. ultrarunners had been asking 

him to coach them, so he started Sharman 

Ultra: Endurance Coaching. Now, Sharman 

is known as much for being an uberaccomplished 

ultrarunner as he is a coach. 

He and a team of elite coaches help 

runners navigate training, prevent 

injury and develop grit—something 

Sharman knows a thing or two about. 

The races he competes in keep him on 

his feet sometimes between twelve and 

twenty-four hours in temperatures above 

100 degrees. 

“Mental toughness matters a lot more 

than just pure physical fitness,” he said. 

“The fitter you are, sometimes that can 

make you a little bit cocky and then you 

think it’s going to be easy, and it’s not easy.” 

To accomplish such feats you’d assume 

takes perfection, but, Sharman says, far 

from it. “You can get away with being less 

than perfect if you do a lot of other things 

right,” he said. 

Sharman has adopted a less-is-more 

training mantra, and doesn’t shy away 

from enjoying Bend’s craft beer scene. 

“Usually I avoid alcohol for a couple of 

weeks before a major race, but otherwise 

it’s a big part of my lifestyle, and I tend 

to eat out multiple times per week,” he 

said. For an extreme athlete, Sharman has 

a refreshingly relaxed take on diet and 

exercise—maybe because he knows the 

best way to succeed at anything is to take 

it one step at a time. 

WORKOUT 

Running, usually 

around ten to fifteen 

hours a week, plus 

hiking, especially in the 

Cascade Mountains, 

and light gym strength 

work a couple of times 

a week. 

NUTRITION 

I try to eat a generally 

healthy and balanced 

diet without any fads, 

but Bend is such a 

beer town and that’s 

one of the things I love 

about it. Three staples 

in my diet are hummus, 

salmon and avocados. 

INSPIRATION 

I’m inspired by worldclass 

distance runners 

like Mo Farah, Eliud 

Kipchoge and Haile 

Gebrselassie. Outside of 

sport, great leaders like 

Nelson Mandela have 

always shown 

me hope about the 

best side of humanity, 

and we need more 

people like him in the 

current world. 

EVENTS 

• Down ’n’ Dirty Half 

in October 


artist in residence 

Mural © The Artback 

“The Mushroom Forager,” designed by Nolene 

Triska and painted in 2012, is one of the various 

murals painted throughout Estacada. 

Art Climbs the Walls 

Estacada’s artists paint the town 

red … and yellow and purple and … 

written and photographed by Catie Joyce-Bulay 

AT FIRST GLANCE, Estacada is a sleepy little pass-through town to get to recreation destinations in bordering 

Mount Hood National Forest. If you stop to stock up in the grocery store, you can’t help but notice a Native 

American tribe fishing Celilo Falls under the “Fresh Produce” sign. Then look across the street and huge mushrooms 

rise from the forest floor among apartment doors and a giant forager. On the wall next door, Chinese-Americans 

harvest ginseng, an important pre-World War I crop for the region. These are the murals of the Artback Artists 

Cooperative. Twenty-one in all, they are ubiquitous downtown and in surrounding parks, calling visitors to take 

notice of the rural town of 3,000’s surprisingly vibrant arts scene. 

I recently spent a sunny summer morning touring the murals 

with two of their creators. Walking among them with artists 

Jenny Joyce and Kolieha Bush, they pointed out weather damage 

or something they’d change, giving me the history and often 

naming the people depicted in them. 

“I think the door should be open on the chapel, don’t you 

think?” asked Bush while surveying a mural on Second Street. 

“Kinzy Faire Garden,” designed in 2000 by Am Griswold, 

who also works in clay, depicts a lush local garden. No longer 

maintained, its beautiful blooms live on in the mural as part of 

the town’s history. 

“We’re doing this for Estacada, for people in the town,” said 

Joyce, who was part of the project’s founding and designed and 

led its first mural in 1994. “That’s hard for some to understand, 

but we’ve had real consistent support throughout the years.” 

Half of the money they raise for murals comes from donations, 

the other half from grants. 

Joyce, who, like Bush, works as an artist for McMenamins, 

moved to Estacada in the 1990s and soon got to know other 

artists living there. She had worked with children painting 

murals through Artists in the Schools, and she helped form 

the artists cooperative to raise money for the city’s first mural. 


seasideOR.com 

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but it can 

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artist in residence 

Murals © The Artback 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP “The Early Trains of Estacada,” designed by John Freese, was originally painted with house paint in 1995 and repainted in 2015. Artists Kolieha Bush, left, and 

Jenny Joyce stand in front of 2003 mural “The Arts in Estacada,” designed by Joe Cotter. 2002’s “Tree of Life,” designed by Kolieha Bush, Reeva Wortel and Emily Hyde. 

It was important to her and the other artists that they be 

compensated for their work. Joyce, who now lives in Portland 

and grew up with a love of art, has worked as a professional 

artist for her entire career. 

“People think art is fun and they shouldn’t have to pay for 

it,” said Joyce, who shows her oil and canvas landscapes and 

abstracts in a couple Portland galleries. “There’s a lot of delusions 

about life as an artist. It’s important to pay us.” She credits the 

small stipend the artists receive to the group’s survival over the 

last twenty-four years. 

The artists, a core group of ten with new additions each 

year, named themselves Artback, a play on “outback,” since 

they initially saw themselves as outliers. The murals have since 

made a great impact on the former logging and rail town and 

its residents not only embrace them, but feel a sense of pride 

over them. 

The Artback Artists paint their mural the last weekend in 

July, which used to coincide with an event called Timberfest. 

The mural painting soon became its own event, and a few years 

in, someone in town decided the artists should have music 

to paint to. A band appeared, Bush recalled. The festivities 

naturally developed into the Estacada Celebration, a homegrown 

arts and music festival. The city bought a semi-truck 

stage and made the festival official in 2000. 

“The first year the band was playing kind of for us,” said 

Bush, a resident of nearby Eagle Creek who works in a variety 

of media, including papier mâché and bronze and shows her 

work in downtown’s artist-run Spiral Gallery and at the Oregon 

Country Fair. She credits the fair’s creative spirit as an influence 

on her free-spirited art. 

This year’s mural, one of the co-op’s most intricate designs, 

depicted the annual summer celebration. The mural, co-led 

by Bush and calligraphy and watercolorist Nolene Triska, was 

inspired by a postcard Triska made of the celebration. 

The first mural, “Fishing the Clackamas,” was completed in a 

day with house paint. The artists now use better-quality mural 

paint and a varnish with fixative to preserve the murals from 

weather and sun damage. The process now takes several days, 

but the murals should last at least twenty years. Unique to the 

group is its focus on the restoration of old murals. 

“A town that’s full of faded murals is really sad,” Joyce said. “As 

we redo them, I think they’ve gotten better. I’m a better artist 

now than I was thirty years ago and to bring it back to life is 

really fun. I love that.” 


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down to earth.

STARTUP 60 

WHAT’S GOING UP 62 

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 64 

MY WORKSPACE 66 

GAME CHANGER 68 

pg. 66 

Baseballism’s flagship store sits near 

the Portland Beavers’ original stadium. 

Brian Holstein

PRESENTS 

OCTOBER 25-27 

A three-day event for creators, 

designers and thinkers.

startup 

John Gardner demonstrates the 

technology with students at a National 

Federation of the Blind Camp. 

Blind Man’s Vision 

Darkness for physicist illuminates needs 

for science, and ViewPlus answers the call 

written by Chris Peterson 

IN 1988, JOHN GARDNER was a professor of physics 

at Oregon State University when his world went dark. 

Literally. Routine glaucoma surgery left him blind. It was 

the proverbial thunderbolt that illuminated resource 

weaknesses just as technology and disability rights 

were ascending. 

Gardner was well-placed to harness the positive 

energy of this perfect storm. He and partners would 

develop software and printers that allow blind students 

and professionals around the globe to comprehend, 

analyze and communicate ideas. 

Thanks to help from colleagues and then-rudimentary 

audio technology for computers, Gardner initially continued 

to teach and do research. But he couldn’t interpret data from 

his own lab and students without help from others. He was 

determined to create tools so he and others could work 

independently through other senses—touch and hearing. 

Braille translates letters and numbers into a tactile language 

for the blind, but sciences rely on specialized symbols, graphs 

and charts to convey complex information. If someone has 

never seen an equation, terms like numerator, denominator 

or square root can be mind-boggling. Symbols and diagrams 

require such long descriptions that their meanings can be 

lost as they’re described. Math Braille is another complicated 

language altogether. 

Gardner and local and international students and 

colleagues have invented tools or improved upon existing 

ones to communicate complicated concepts. Early on, it was 

a graphics calculator which used changing pitches of a tone to 

indicate points on a graph. Later, a young woman struggling 

with math prompted Gardner to develop DotsPlus to help 

sighted teachers convey mathematical terms to blind students 


startup 

FROM LEFT The ViewPlus EmBraille, Elite 

and Max are all printers that help the blind. 

in their universal layout form, rather than learning math Braille 

or slogging through lengthy descriptions. Using the DotsPlus 

template with MS Word+MathType creates such equations. 

Gardner had been receiving National Science Foundation 

grants for his university research for years, traveling regularly 

to Washington, D.C., for reviews 

and to confer with other project 

leaders. His NSF cohorts now 

asked how a blind person could 

direct physics research. One 

day, he showed what he thought 

was a handful of fellow project 

managers his idea for DotsPlus. 

The NSF had recently been 

mandated by Congress to fund 

projects geared to people with 

disabilities, and it turned out 

someone who awarded those 

projects was in the room, too. 

Gardner’s idea was immediately 

funded. 

Braille printers at that time 

lacked the resolution and printer 

drivers to emboss DotsPlus, so 

developing an adequate embosser 

was a top priority Gardner and 

two students tackled. One student 

devised a grid system that led to a durable Braille embossing 

system. This was the first project of their newly established 

company, ViewPlus, in 1996. They patented and sold their first 

embosser in 1999. When the students moved on, Gardner and 

his wife, Carolyn, began building ViewPlus. She is his “eyes” in 

his non-academic life. While he worked at OSU, she coordinated 

the Adult Basic Education program at Linn-Benton Community 

Only a fraction of the 

population requires Braille 

and tactile graphics, so 

ViewPlus’ market is small, 

but broad. Its software and 

printers are used in schools 

and businesses around the 

world and it has an office 

in Europe as well as the 

home base in Oregon. 

College’s Benton Center. She recognized that some tools for the 

blind could be helpful for learning dysfunctions, too. 

Among recent products the company has developed is a printer 

that combines Braille and colored graphics so sighted and blind 

can work from the same printout. Another device uses audiotactile 

feedback to understand an 

embossed graph via a computer’s 

audio. Gardner demonstrated 

by putting a structural diagram 

of aspirin on his computer’s 

touchpad. Moving his hands along 

the embossed diagram and Braille, 

we listened to the description. 

Only a fraction of the 

population requires Braille and 

tactile graphics, so ViewPlus’ 

market is small, but broad. Its 

software and printers are used in 

schools and businesses around 

the world and it has an office in 

Europe as well as the home base 

in Oregon. 

Rarely is an inventor also a 

savvy business person, so running 

the business was challenging 

as well. That changed when the 

Gardners’ son, Dan, joined the 

business. He was a 19-year-old electrical engineering student 

when his father went blind. Though he occasionally helped with 

engineering suggestions, he had no desire to to join ViewPlus. 

Then, when he switched to finance and business, he found 

himself frequently testing ideas on his family’s enterprise. Today 

he is ViewPlus C.E.O. and enjoys solving business problems as 

much as his father does technical problems. 


what’s going up? 

Renderings courtesy of SRG Partnership 

Athletic Pursuits 

New athletic facilities, big and small, await for Oregon 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

FROM TOP Hayward Field will be rebuilt to 

accommodate up to 30,000. The project is 

expected to be completed in 2020. 

MANY TRACK AND FIELD buffs are 

in mourning at the changes underway 

at historic Hayward Field. The facility, 

which was built in 1919 to house 

football and grew into the legendary 

location of Olympic Trials and USA 

Track and Field championships, has 

been torn down and will be rebuilt 

entirely using funds from the Phil 

and Penny Knight Foundation and 

other donors. 

The new facility is the result of 

Eugene hosting the 2021 world 

outdoor championships. It will have 

an expanded capacity—from 8,500 

to 12,900 with room for temporary 

seating up to 30,000—and a nine-story 

tower with an observation deck, as well 

as a locker room and an indoor practice 

facility. Missing from the facility will 

be the wooden stands where fans have 

cheered on racers for nearly a century. 

The project was designed by SRG 

Partnership, and is expected to open in 

spring 2020. 

On a much smaller scale, other 

communities are getting new 

athletic facilities as well. In Bend, 

Cascade Indoor Sports is opening 

a 48,500-square-foot facility with a 

trampoline zone on the first floor, a 

“pickleball zone” with eight indoor 

courts, and a third-floor viewing area 

and lounge. 

Near West Linn, a plan is in place to 

construct a 95,000-square-foot indoor 

lacrosse and soccer facility. The twostory 

building in Wankers Corner 

would have a full-size soccer field with 

seating and other amenities around it. 

The original plan was for the facility, 

from Fieldhouse Athletics LLC, to be 

finished this fall. 


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what i’m working on 

David Bantz is the owner 

of He Sells These Shells. 

Selling Shells 

Reducing waste, and saving the 

environment, with hazelnut shells 

interview and photography by Vanessa Salvia 

TURNS OUT, Oregon’s hazelnuts are good 

for more than making pies, cookies and 

eating out of hand. Tualatin resident David 

Bantz, owner of He Sells These Shells, sells 

cracked, bagged hazelnut shells to garden 

centers and at farmers markets, and has 

participated in research looking into how 

effective hazelnut shells are at removing 

toxins from water. 

At home, Bantz has set aside a large 

area near his driveway where he unloads 

truckloads of hazelnut shells—80,000 

pounds at a time. He bags them by hand and 

delivers them himself. Around his home, the 

hazelnut shells fill pots and line pathways, 

where this quintessential Oregon resource 

really shines. About 67,000 acres in Oregon 

are dedicated to growing the nut. 

How did you get into selling hazelnut 

shells? 

In 2008, I lost my job in land-use 

planning after the bottom fell out for 

land development. I found a couple 

part-time jobs in my field and didn’t 

like them, so I came home and told 

my wife, Sharie, that I was going to 

sell hazelnut shells! I had purchased 

some a number of years ago at a 

farmers market in Beaverton. I found 

a processor to buy directly from, and 

bought an antique weighing scale 

and started filling bags by hand. I’m 

selling to about twenty-five individual 

buyers that contact me directly, at 

the Milwaukie farmers market, a 

few hardware stores, the Backyard 

Bird Shop in West Linn and at thirtythree 

garden centers from Seattle to 

Cottage Grove. I also get about eight 

out of ten of my bags back for refills. I 

fill orders the same day or within two 

days. Sharie can get thirty 25-pound 

bags in her Kia Soul so she delivers for 

me when I can’t. 

What are the benefits of using 

hazelnut shells rather than other 

mulches? 

The nut processors don’t have any 

desire for the shells, so in the past 

those have ended up being burned or 

buried. So using them helps alleviate 

that. The cracked shells are pointy and 

rough, so slugs don’t like to crawl on 

them and cats don’t like to dig in them. 

They keep weeds from germinating 

because the shells are very dense, 

and in the sun they get really warm 

while also keeping the ground below 

them cooler, so weed seeds don’t 

germinate. The shells last for seven 

to eight seasons, while you have to 

replace bark mulch every year or two. 

They can be used to smoke meats and 

they add a nice flavor to barbecue. In 

fact, one of the uses I’m looking into is 

pelletizing them for wood stoves. You 

can pile the shells in the bottom of large 

pots to make them lighter and easier to 

move around. 

Tell me about the water quality 

research into hazelnut shells. 

The Port of Vancouver, a student at 

Cal Poly-Pomona and Georgia Tech 

have all used my shells for testing 

water quality. They’ve all found similar 

results. The Georgia study found that 

contaminated stormwater can be 

cleaned in the most effective way with 

nut shells in a burlap bag. The hazelnut 

filter removed more fecal coliform, 

hydrocarbons and heavy metals better 

than the $500 commercial filter. 


Every 

Moment 

Covered 

Full Spectrum News | opb.org

my workspace 

My Workspace 

Baseball For All 

Oregon may not have a baseball team (yet), 

but it has a successful baseball company 

written by Beau Eastes 

photography by Brian Holstein 

Baseballism has retail shops in baseball 

hot spots around the country— 

Cooperstown, New York; Scottsdale, 

Arizona; Boston; and San Francisco to 

highlight a few—but its flagship store 

is in a beautifully renovated warehouse 

on Northwest 22nd and Quimby in 

Portland, just seven blocks from the 

Portland Beavers’ original stadium, 

Vaughn Street Park. 

What started out as a youth baseball 

camp put on by four former University 

of Oregon club baseball players is now 

a $10 million a year lifestyle brand 

built around America’s pastime. That 

means you can purchase everything 

from T-shirts adorned with baseball 

terms like “Southpaw” and “Live 

Life Like a 3-1 Count” to $85 leather 

toiletry bags. 

The company doesn’t have a licensing agreement 

with Major League Baseball, instead creating 

products from sayings and slogans familiar to 

passionate baseball fans. Baseballism does have 

two official licensing deals, one with the Babe 

Ruth family to use the iconic image of Ruth’s 

swing as part of its official logo, and another 

with the cult classic movie “Major League.” 


my workspace 

The four former teammates, whose 

business cards feature pictures from their 

youth baseball days, have successfully 

marketed to old-school baseball fans who 

curse the designated hitter and Astroturf, 

as well as to a younger generation who 

grew up with Ken Griffey Jr. bouncing 

around the Kingdome with his hat on 

backward. Baseballism sells T-shirts and 

hoodies with baseball sayings that go 

back decades, but also produces caps with 

reclaimed carpet from PDX and handbags 

made from vintage glove leather. 


game changer 

Erasing the Past, 

Rewriting the Future 

A tattoo removal program in downtown 

Portland extends far beyond body ink 

written by Corinne Whiting 

WHILE SOME ORGANIZATIONS aspire to leave their mark, 

Outside In’s tattoo removal program has the reverse aim. Located 

in downtown Portland, Project Erase has helped thousands of 

people get rid of body ink that serves as a painful reminder of 

their past. The main objective—to remove tattoos in the safest 

and most comfortable way possible. 

“(An example of) tattoos that we might remove include visible 

gang-related symbols that could be a barrier to both successful 

employment as well as a risk to personal safety,” program 

coordinator Caroline Jackson said, “a tattoo that a victim of 

domestic violence was forced to get by their abuser or that directly 

triggers the trauma from past abuse, tattoos representative of 

past addiction whose removal provides a significant step toward 

recovery, (and) hate symbols that represent an ideology the client 

no longer subscribes to and hopes to move on from.” 

The service is reserved for those living below 200 percent of 

the federal poverty level, and the fees follow a sliding scale, which 

ranges from $25 to $55 per treatment, depending on income and 

family size. The affordability can be credited to a dedicated team 

of doctors and nurse practitioners who volunteer their time. 

Clients are never required to discuss their personal journey or 

reasons behind the removal. 

Clients, who are anonymous, have had positive experiences 

with the program. “Removing the tattoos was the last stop on 

my recovery from traumatic circumstances that led up to them,” 

one said. “It’s not just erasing tattoos, it’s closing the book on the 

trauma that came with them.” Another commented, “Thanks to 

Project Erase, removing my facial tattoos has meant that I can 

seek upward mobility in my career without being immediately 

judged. … I feel like I can start my life over now, and this is 

infinitely valuable to me.” 

Initially conceived by the Oregon Psychiatric Association, 

the program has experienced much growth since Outside In 

A client undergoes a tattoo removal session. 

took it on in 2002. The once-small operation now enjoys an 

expanded team and improved equipment. The team uses a 

Quanta Q+C laser to remove tattoos—and a chiller for pain 

management. Jackson said it can take anywhere from five to 

fifteen treatments, depending on a person’s immune system, 

the depth and thickness of the ink and whether the work was 

done with a professional tattoo gun or by an alternative method. 

Sessions are scheduled six to eight weeks apart to give the 

immune system time to remove the ink particles. 

Jackson first volunteered at Outside In before jumping at the 

chance to join the program about a year ago. She raves about the 

clients she meets through an all-inclusive project that “doesn’t 

have a lot of barriers.” She always chats with first-time clients— 

over the phone or in person. And if folks don’t have internet 

access to complete the online application, they can mail in a 

paper version or call in. 

“I think the common thread is that so many clients are in 

a place of trying to move forward, which is really inspiring,” 

Jackson said. “I’m really inspired by people’s growth 

and determination.” 

“Removing the tattoos was the last stop on my recovery from 

traumatic circumstances that led up to them. It’s not just erasing 

tattoos, it’s closing the book on the trauma that came with them.” 

— a Project Erase client 


This Century Modern 

H2O TODAY 

An exhibit from the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service 

by THE SHELTER STUDIO INC. 

theshelterstudio.com | designs built for the environment | 541.306.4270 

Dive into H20, our 

planet’s lifeblood. 

Through interactive displays and scientific 

insights, discover creative ways to steward 

our water resources well into the future. 

1680 East 15th Avenue, Eugene | natural-history.uoregon.edu 

H2O Today is adapted from an exhibition by the American Museum of Natural History, New York.

The Passive House in Corvallis 

proves sustainable design 

doesn’t have to look modern. 

Jen G. Pywell 


Green 

Living 

Step inside these recent sustainable 

home designs from around the state 


OREGON HAS SOME serious green building cred, but there’s 

always room for improvement. Governor Kate Brown led 

the state into an embrace of energy conservation when, 

last November, she signed an executive order stating that 

newly constructed residences must demonstrate 40 to 50 

percent more energy efficiency than conventional construction. Intrigued, 

we checked out three recent sustainable builds to better understand what 

our future neighborhoods might look like.

Jen G. Pywell 

David Paul Bayles 

FROM LEFT The 

“reading cave” 

is one of the 

Christiansons’ 

personal touches. 

The home is a 

Craftsman style. 

The First Passive House in Corvallis 

CHOOSING TO BUILD their first home was a nobrainer 

for Carl and Julie Christianson. He runs G. 

Christianson Construction, which was started by his 

parents in Corvallis in 1986. Less obvious is that the 

couple would make their home a certified Passive House. 

Although Carl’s company had never built one, the 

project suited his natural curiosity. “As someone who’s 

into gadgets and being innovative, this is an innovative 

way to build,” Julie Christianson said. “It’s a release for his 

creativity, trying to figure out how to make it all work.” 

Buildings, both residential and commercial, account 

for 39 percent of energy use across the United States, 

with most of that energy obtained from fossil fuels and 

nuclear sources. Constructing to the Passive House 

standard is a tried-and-true method to drastically reduce 

a home’s energy consumption and thereby the carbon 

emissions that result from the energy generated for the 

structure. The Passive House model attains such energy 

efficiency through a concert of components, including 

continuous insulation and elimination of thermal bridges 

for airtightness, high-performance windows and doors, 

and controlled ventilation. Gaining experience with 

Passive House construction, and becoming certified 

in the approach, was a logical step for Christianson as 

more customers seek to save energy. “As a builder in 

town, that’s definitely the direction we wanted to go as a 

company,” Christianson said. 

Once the Christiansons found an empty lot in the 

Brooklane neighborhood, they collaborated with Eugene 

architect Jan Fillinger, a self-described “passive house 

geek” and co-author of a book on the subject. Fillinger 

and a team of consultants delivered the complex 

modeling needed for Christianson’s crew to achieve 

such high levels of airtightness, while the couple pored 

over the home’s details. The Christiansons knew they 

wanted a Craftsman-style home from the beginning. “I 

think a lot of people think a Passive House has to look 

modern,” Julie Christianson said. 

Now, quality finishes and a thoughtful use of space 

govern the home, from the gracious front porch to the 

classic interior trim and generous windows. The house 

brims with personal touches, such as the hickory floor 

inlaid with a compass rose that recalls Julie Christianson’s 

summers on a tall ship, and the “reading cave,” an 

alcove under the stairs that reminds Carl Christianson 

of a childhood spent reading books beside his father’s 

rocking chair. Then there’s the intangible benefits, like a 

stable internal air temperature from all the insulation, no 

pesky drafts, and continuously filtered air free of pollens 

and pollutants. “I think a lot of people look strictly at the 

cost of the components,” Christianson said. “But what 

they’re missing is that by putting all the pieces together, 

you end up with a house that’s really comfortable.” 

In 2017, the project became the first certified Passive 

House in Corvallis, and with solar panels installed on 

the garage, is nearly Net Zero. Yet as important as such 

details are, the bigger picture is even more so. “Carl’s 

house avoids 19 tons of CO 2 

every year compared to a 

code house,” Fillinger said. “If all houses throughout the 

entire United States did that, it is possible to slow down 

carbon emissions to the point that we can slow down 

global warming and eventually, hopefully, reverse it.” 


Photos: Claire Thorington, Courtesy of Green Hammer 

A Net Zero Home for Retirement in Shady Cove 

IN ORDER TO PREPARE a realistic budget for 

retirement, you have to trim the fat. While concocting 

their plans, David and Debbie Hill figured out one way to 

keep their monthly household costs down—the couple 

built their forever home to Net Zero energy standards. 

Why? “So our utility bills won’t be very high!” Debbie Hill 

said. “We’re retirees. It just seemed like the way to go.” 

Prior to moving to Southern Oregon, the Hills lived 

in Columbus, Ohio, for thirty years and worked as 

information analysts for a division of the American 

Chemical Society. Upon inheriting a 1-acre lot in the 

small town of Shady Cove, they decided to swap out 

the dilapidated house on it for one that would suit their 

lifestyle. “We wanted to build a smaller, energy-efficient 

home for retirement,” Debbie Hill said. “I didn’t want a 

big house to clean. A smaller house would be convenient 

for us to grow old in.” The couple worked with architect 

Erica Dunn from the design/build firm Green Hammer 

to create a 3,200-square-foot home that balances peak 

energy efficiency with warm and modern conviviality. 

Dunn started by designing the home to Passive 

House principles. “With our focus on the Passive 

House envelope, it’s the most cost-effective way to 

get to Net Zero energy and drive those loads down,” 

she said. Triple-pane windows, superior insulation 

and careful positioning on the lot to optimize solar 

exposure are all supplemented by a rooftop solar array 

to achieve Net Zero. That means the house generates 

as much renewable energy over the course of the year 

as it consumes. “In the summer, our [monthly] electric 

bills, even though we run the AC, are just a minimal 

$10.96,” Hill said. The house is tied to the grid, so that 

amount covers a standard connection fee imposed by 

the power company. 

Next, Dunn incorporated aging-in-place strategies 

to ensure the home would comfortably accommodate 

all of the occupants, which include the Hills, Debbie’s 

father and their four dogs. The lot slopes down at the 

back toward the Rogue River, so Dunn kept the house 

at a low profile on the approach, with all of the primary 

living spaces on-grade with the site. “The thought was 

that a wheelchair wouldn’t have any thresholds to cross 

on the main floor,” Dunn said. A plethora of built-in 

storage and durable finishes make for easy maintenance, 

as well as an organic, modern aesthetic. “We used a 

lot of fir throughout, because that has such a nice rich 

color and tone to it,” Dunn said. That warmth extends 

to the exterior, where multiple inset porches are clad 

with cedar reclaimed from a deconstructed wood trestle 

bridge in the region. 

These days, the Hills are living just the life they sought 

in their new house, whether that’s listening to the sound 

of the river from the porch or enjoying the night sky 

from the rooftop deck. “It’s certainly built to meet all our 

needs,” David Hill said. “That is, everything we need and 

nothing we don’t.” 

CLOCKWISE 

FROM LEFT The 

Net Zero home 

in Shady Cove 

has triple-pane 

windows. The home 

has fir finishes. A 

solar array on the 

roof generates 

renewable energy. 


Small, Smart & Sustainable 

Bronson Studios Photography ideabox 

/ Summer Lake / A Small Rural Retreat 

Nestled in a prairie at the edge of the Great Basin, this modest, 

shed-roofed home effortlessly blends in with its natural setting. 

Located at the PLAYA Artist Retreat Center at Summer Lake, 

the two-bedroom, 885-square-foot cottage was designed by 

William Roach, PLAYA’s co-founder, and Nir Pearlson and Roger 

Ota of Nir Pearlson Architects. 

While the group referenced the history of the region with 

the use of corrugated steel siding and a red metal roof on 

the exterior, the interior framing was more forward-looking. 

Panelized walls were built in a factory in Eugene, which cuts 

down on waste and environmental impact during construction, 

then erected on site and filled with double insulation. As 

Pearlson recently wrote in Fine Homebuilding magazine: “Early 

on, we decided to gear the design toward prefabrication, which 

we believe is the future of affordable and sustainable housing.” 

/ Salem / Eco-rated Prefab Homes 

In the early aughts, architect Jim Russell saw a niche in the market. 

“We were watching the initial versions of what prefab is today,” Russell 

said. “We were looking at what was in the magazines and seeing that 

they were all at a pretty high price point.” Russell, who has a career 

background in energy and resource efficiency and factory-built housing, 

decided to take a different approach and in 2006, launched ideabox, 

which creates small, well-designed, affordable, green-rated prefab homes. 

Based in Salem, ideabox now has a range of models and sizes to 

choose from, starting from the 430-square-foot minibox for $111,800 

and climbing to the 1,658-square-foot Roadrunner for $198,900. Each 

home comes equipped with a menu of green features, including a wellinsulated 

shell, energy efficient windows, Energy Star appliances, no-VOC 

paints and low- to no-formaldehyde cabinetry. But most important to 

Russell is that customers get a home that suits the way they like to live. 

“One of the compliments that we get from clients is that they know 

they’re in a house that’s unique,” Russell said. “And for us, any time we 

can build something that’s smaller and lessens the carbon footprint, 

that’s a pretty rockin’ place to live.” 

Robin Rigby Fisher Design/Dale Lang 

/ Portland / A Net Zero ADU 

You might call it an experiment. In 2016, a client approached 

Portland-based Birdsmouth Construction about adding 

a 665-square-foot apartment over their two-car garage 

in Southeast Portland. The plan was to convert it into an 

Accessory Dwelling Unit, but this wouldn’t be a run-of-the-mill 

remodel. The homeowner hoped to certify the new digs as a 

Passive House. Typically, “very small buildings don’t do well as 

good candidates for certified Passive House,” said Birdsmouth 

designer Ben Valentin. “But we said we’d give it a shot.” 

While that initial goal did prove to be out of reach, when 

the project wrapped in early 2018 the team had fashioned a 

remarkably energy-efficient structure. Triple-pane windows and 

continuous super-insulation make for supreme airtightness, 

while a mini-split heat pump and heat recovery ventilator 

ensure top-notch ventilation and interior comfort. With the 

addition of a small solar array, the ADU is now certified Net 

Zero and generating more energy on site than it needs over a 

year. We call that a win. 


Photos: skylab 

An Energy-Efficient Modular Home in Portland 

LIKE THE MANY 100-year-old bungalows on this 

Northeast Portland block, this new home also started 

with a basement foundation. But that’s where the 

similarities end. On a sunny fall morning in 2012, 

semi-trucks arrived at the site to offload the rest of 

the house. They were soon assisted by giant cranes 

to lift and stack six angular modules into place, while 

a crowd of onlookers gathered on the sidewalk to 

observe the progress. “By 4 p.m. the whole house was 

there, which was a remarkable thing to watch,” said Jeff 

Kovel, architect and principal of Skylab Architecture. 

“There’s nothing there in the morning, and then a 

house is there in the evening.” 

In 2009, the Seattle-based prefab company Method 

Homes contacted Kovel to design a modular scheme 

suitable for city infill lots. It was the recession, the 

building world was in chaos, and Kovel had the 

bandwidth. “We wanted to be able to provide a custom 

architectural solution through a more accessible process 

and hopefully at a more accessible price point,” he said. 

His firm devised, essentially, a “set of building blocks” 

composed of 100-square-foot triangular modules, 

which can be combined and customized in a range of 

floor plans that respond to a variety of site conditions. 

“We had seen in the prefab market that there were a 

lot of standard floor plans that may or may not fit the 

site really well, so we wanted to move beyond that 

limitation,” Kovel said. He and Method have since 

dubbed the system HOMB in a combination of the 

word “home” and the honeycomb aspect of combining 

modules, with the Portland installation the prototype. 

The triangle shape serves a dual purpose. For 

starters, it’s the “strongest shape,” making it wellsuited 

to truck transportation or being hoisted in the 

air by a crane. “They can’t flex as much. That flexing 

would theoretically pop the grout out of the tile or 

put cracks in the drywall,” Kovel said. Being able to 

deliver a building in such a complete state means 

project timelines can be buttoned up more quickly. 

The Portland home only took six or seven months 

from basement excavation to move-in, which is 

several months less than a normal house build might 

need. The triangle shape also serves up a dramatic, 

almost iconic, form. “We liked how they help break 

up that boxy modern look that’s so common in 

prefab,” Kovel said. 

Part of the owners’ brief was for a sustainable 

home, which the prefab process is well-positioned to 

deliver. Construction waste is significantly reduced 

since the home is built off-site in Method’s Ferndale, 

Washington, factory, where off-cuts and excess can 

be saved and used on other projects. The controlled 

conditions eliminate exposure to the elements and 

potential moisture problems. According to Skylab, 

the home’s exceptional insulation values and highperformance 

building skin deliver energy savings of 

roughly 40 percent over homes built to code. Plus, the 

rooftop is ready for a solar array. Efficient mechanical 

systems complete the picture, as well as low-VOC 

finishes for improved indoor air quality. Said Kovel: 

“Prefab in general is just a tighter, greener approach 

to building.” 

FROM LEFT The 

triangular modules 

from Method 

Homes. The interior 

is light and airy. 


Portland is a city of bridges, and behind 

these bridges is a cadre of people 

making sure they operate smoothly. 


ALL ALONG THE 

WATCHTOWERS 

Inside the lives of Portland’s bridge tenders 

written by Scott Latta / photography by Shauna Intelisano 


EVEN BY THE DREARY STANDARDS OF PORTLAND WINTERS, 

2017 was especially bleak. At one point, five storms slammed Portland in five weeks. The Weather 

Channel, stating what everyone in the city was thinking, dubbed it “America’s most winter-fatigued 

city.” When a foot of snow fell in one twenty-four-hour period in January, the nation gawked as 

hapless Portlanders abandoned their cars along impossibly glassy hills. 

But the real trouble started two months later, when the sun came out. 

Federal guidelines maintain that when the Willamette 

River rises above 12 feet, all Portland bridges must be staffed 

twenty-four hours a day. Under normal circumstances, 

it’s not a problem for the county’s eight full-time bridge 

operators. But as the snow melted in the Cascades—141 

percent of its normal depth—it collected in reservoirs 

within the mountains’ foothills. Slowly, the Army Corps 

of Engineers released the water into the Willamette so as 

to not flood the river. It meant the city could carry on as 

normal, but that the river would be above 12 feet from 

March 10 to June 19—101 consecutive days. Endless winter 

gave way to endless work. 

Full-time and on-call operators took on twelve-hour 

shifts. Road maintenance workers were trained to raise 

bridges. Today, a county spokesman looks back on it as “a 

real challenge.” But 44-year-old Kristian Williams, who has 

sat in the control rooms of Portland’s bridges for more than 

two years, remembers it more pointedly. 

“Bonkers,” he said. 

It’s a curious job that has a way of attracting naturally 

curious people. “I wanted to be a bridge operator for as 

long as I realized there were bridge operators,” Williams 

said. Before this, he worked as a night clerk at a hostel in 

Northwest Portland. “What I didn’t anticipate was that I 

was really just going to like the work.” 

On Tammy Vanderlinden’s second day as lead bridge 

operator, she arrived to the Morrison Bridge at 6:40 a.m. to 

find a car on fire. Vanderlinden’s journey to the Morrison 

was not unlike her peers’. A year earlier, she worked at a 

steel factory. Before that, she drove a bus for TriMet on 

a route that crossed the Hawthorne, beneath the dutiful 

watch of operators she would later supervise. For years, she 

made industrial silicon wafers. She carried mail. 

“It was just like, ‘That sounds cool,’” she said. “I think as 

long as it’s interesting and you’re still learning, you come 

to work and you’re excited, people appreciate you, and you 

can do something for the community—those are the things 

that are exciting to me. In this job so far I haven’t gotten 

bored. It’s always something new.” 

Being a bridge operator is a little like being a lighthouse 

keeper and a little like being a firefighter. You have to be able 

to manage long stretches of unstructured time, ticking off 

work orders and startling thrill-seeking teenagers through 

the loudspeakers, knowing that any morning could greet 

you with a burning car or any ship with a blasting horn. 

“I’m sure a lot of people are surprised,” Vanderlinden said, 

“especially when they’re doing stupid stuff on the bridge 

and I get on the PA and say, ‘I can see you, knock it off,’ and 

they’re like, ‘There’s somebody up here? Oh my god.’” 

Multnomah County’s bridge operators oversee four of 

Portland’s downtown bridges—the Broadway, Burnside, 

Morrison and Hawthorne. Only the Hawthorne, the oldest 

vertical-lift bridge in America and the busiest bike and 

transit bridge in Oregon, is staffed twenty-four hours a day, 

seven days a week. 

The Hawthorne was a steel marvel when it opened in 

1910, a modern solution to the precarious timber bridges 

that traversed the Willamette in Portland’s earliest days. 

In 1913, it carried 1,600 vehicles and 1,200 horse-drawn 

carriages a day. On any given day now, it transports 30,000 


Lead bridge operator Tammy Vanderlinden enjoys 

the job because “it’s always something new.”

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Built in 

1910, the Hawthorne Bridge is the 

oldest vertical lift bridge operating 

in the U.S. During her shifts, 

Tammy Vanderlinden stays busy 

by watching the river, working 

on projects and responding to 

incidents on and around the 

bridge, as well as safely lifting and 

lowering the bridge. A boat passes 

under the Hawthorne Bridge. 


vehicles, 8,000 bicycles, and 800 buses, or roughly the 

population of Corvallis. 

But the Hawthorne’s endurance over hundreds of 

thousands of lifts isn’t a testament to its construction as 

much as to the men and women who have tended to it for 

108 years. By 1930, just twenty years after the bridge opened, 

Portland estimated it would only last another decade. It 

was the operators who kept it alive—who noticed how the 

timber platform warped and cracked in the summer heat, 

who learned to constantly lubricate the cables, and who 

even today lift the bridge at regular intervals to wake it up 

and let it stretch its knees. 

The rope-and-pulley routine of Hawthorne’s early days 

has given way to a touch screen that starts the delicate 

mechanical dance. Gates lower, span locks release, engines 

rotate, and 1.8 million pounds of concrete eases toward 

the water, lifting the center span—and the bridge operator, 

along with the occasional stowaway falcon—into the sky. 

IT’S ONE OF THE LONELIEST JOBS 

in Portland—on the Hawthorne especially, Williams said, 

you might not see another person after relieving the one 

before you. But it may also be one of the most contemplative. 

Especially on graveyard shifts, long stretches of silence settle 

in when river traffic stops. As long as the work is done and 

you can take action at a moment’s notice, you can kind of 

just … do what you want. Williams reads The Economist and 

Oscar Wilde. Some operators knit. Vanderlinden spent time 

learning Dutch so she could speak to her husband’s family. 

You are flanked by the city but separate from it, surrounded 

by people but above them, a fixed post in the current. 

Even sound feels farther away. The rush of traffic over the 

Hawthorne’s steel grates dies in the operator’s booth as a 

lifeless buzz. A police siren bounces off downtown buildings 

and dissolves over the water. 

“I think that’s when you get kind of lonely, when it’s 

nighttime,” Vanderlinden said. The self-proclaimed daughter 

of a hippie, Vanderlinden spent an itinerant childhood in 

Berkeley, Seattle and Mexico before she was old enough to 

choose to stay in Oregon. Like all operators, she started on 

call. When she came on full-time, she applied for the lead 

operator position and got it. Now she leads the team from 

the bridge office three days a week and puts in two weekend 

day shifts on the Morrison. 

She has spent so many hundreds of hours watching 

the bridges that she talks about them as if describing her 

kids to a new babysitter. The Hawthorne is polite and well 

behaved. The Broadway, not so much. (“You’re going to get 

creamed if you don’t get out of their way.”) The Burnside 

is all business. 

From the top of the bridge, maybe better than anywhere 

else in the city, she can see both Portlands—the one that 

rose alongside the river over the course of many decades, 

sprinkled with signs of the one to come. 

“You see right on the east end of the Burnside they’re 

pulling down the Fishels building,” Vanderlinden said, with 

something like nostalgia. “That’s going to be something 

new. They’ve got the new courthouse going in on the west 

side. That’s going to be a tall glass structure. It’s going to 

be really different.” 

The bridges, too, will change. The impending Cascadia 

earthquake means it’s time for Multnomah County to 

decide whether to retrofit the Burnside Bridge or replace 

it altogether—for about $500 million. The Hawthorne, 

with its twin 450-ton concrete counterweights, would be a 

catastrophe, but the price tag means the decision of what 

to do about it may be for the next generation. 

If the bridges do come down, whether by collapse or 

by choice, much will be lost. The paintings a previous 

operator left behind inside the Burnside; the “hobbit 

door” Vanderlinden squeezes through to enter the 

Morrison; the sight of a lazy peregrine riding a flagpole 

into the sky. These things create a sense of place, and the 

operators a sense of constancy. A bridge operator is not 

an anachronism, whether you can open the Hawthorne 

from a laptop or not. (You can.) She is a human, at the end 

of the day, there to watch out for other humans. That’s 

what would be lost if the bridges were managed from 

a computer. Who would be there to greet the flaming 

car, or to call out to the reckless teenager? To offer a 

pack of cigarettes to the man dangling his legs over the 

edge, alone? 

Being a bridge operator makes you more conscious 

of the city around you and more aware of your place in 

it. You think about things you didn’t know were worth 

thinking about before. That’s why when you ask Williams 

his favorite time of year to be on the bridge, he pauses 

for twenty-four full seconds before deciding—winter. The 

things that went through his mind to bring him there, 

the solitary privileges of his position, are the same things 

Tammy Vanderlinden means when she explains why she 

loves her job. 

“You see the whole city around you,” she said, “moving.” 


Carver Alex Pricob, of Renton, 

Washington, works on a piece during the 

McKenzie River Chainsaw & Arts Festival. 

CUTTING EDGE 

photography by Bradley Lanphear 

EACH YEAR, some of the world’s top chainsaw carvers 

(yep, that’s a real thing) gather in Blue River to crown 

the best of the best. The carvers use their chainsaws to 

transform logs and stumps into finely carved sculptures— 

eagles, bears, even Sasquatch. The event, organized and 

held at the McKenzie Community Track & Field, is an 

annual festival—mark your calendar for July 19-21, 2019, 

to see the action in person. 


A bear begins to take shape at the hands 

of Bob King, a chainsaw carving artist 

based in Edgewood, Washington.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT 

Bob King concentrates on 

his carving. David Duckett, 

of Mill Creek Wood Works, 

stands by some of his artwork. 

Jacob Lucas, of Bonney 

Lake, Washington, has been 

carving since 2004. A festival 

competitor shows off his 

carving skills. 


Linda Chavez is the first woman to compete at 

the McKenzie River Chainsaw & Arts Festival. 


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Tristin 

Lemmons, left, of Coos Bay, and 

Alex Pricob work on pieces during 

the festival. A bald eagle carving. 

Chainsaw artist Jacob Lucas created 

this dragon sculpture.

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 90 

ADVENTURE 92 

LODGING 96 

TRIP PLANNER 98 

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 104 

pg. 98 

The Tower Theatre is a little like Bend’s living room. 

Megan Morse

Top 12 Global Wine Region to Visit, Forbes, 2017 

World Class Wines 

Your 

Journey 

begins at 

TravelMedford.org

travel spotlight 

Travel Spotlight 

In the Shadow 

of the Giant 

The giant sequoia of Queen 

of Angels Monastery 

written and photographed by Betsy L. Howell 

MORE THAN 700 MILES from its 

native range in California, a 125-yearold 

giant sequoia tree welcomes 

visitors to the Queen of Angels 

Monastery in Mount Angel. 

In 1893, Sister Protasia Schindler 

found the seedling growing beside the 

railroad tracks. She immediately dug 

it up to plant next to the monastery’s 

entrance. Many years later, she said 

that if she’d known how large it would 

grow, she never would have planted it 

so close to the monastery. 

The tree now dwarfs the building 

as well as the other trees on the 

grounds, including one of its progeny 

planted in 1982. In 2004, the giant 

sequoia was designated an Oregon 

Heritage Tree. This honor is bestowed 

for an individual tree’s historical 

significance, accessibility to the 

public, and general health. 

The Benedictine Sisters at Queen of 

Angels welcome people of all faiths 

for personal, overnight retreats, or 

for shorter visits to explore and enjoy 

the grounds. 


12th Annual 

FRIDAY, 

OCT. 19th 

Purchase your 

favorite beverage 

and we donate 

all proceeds 

locally to provide 

low income 

mammograms, 

education, and 

post diagnosis 

support. 

capture 

the feeling. 

Thanks to you, 

we have already 

donated over 

$1,055,000.00 

To learn more visit us at... thehumanbean.com 

BANDON.COM 

www.seasideoutlets.com 

 

The 

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SUNDAY-THURSDAY: 

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FRIDAY-SATURDAY: 

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Pick up a barn map and tour anytime. 

October 6 & 13: Barn Art exhibit 

Josephy Center, Joseph, OR 

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Museum Tours, Enterprise, OR 

seasideOR.com 

wallowacountychamber.com 

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adventure 

Alysia Kezerian’s travels have taken 

her around the world, including 

Salzburg, Amsterdam, Vienna, Prague 

and Bratislava. 

Accessible Adventure 

Alysia Kezerian may use a wheelchair, 

but that’s not stopping her travels 

written by Mackenzie Wilson 

IF THE LITTLE ENGINE That Could was a person, it would 

be Alysia Kezerian. The 24-year-old, from Danville, California, 

hasn’t let anything get in the way of her seeing the world, not 

even a devastating injury. 

In 2015, Kezerian, then a student at the University of Oregon, 

was paralyzed from a fall at Smith Rock State Park near 

Terrebonne. She was bouldering up a 10-foot rock face and on 

the way back down, a section of the rock broke off, sending her 

to the ground. Adrenaline dulled her initial understanding of 

whether she was hurt. “I thought, oh I didn’t hit my head, I’m 

fine,” Kezerian said. “Then I tried to move my legs and I couldn’t.” 

It took rescue crews seven hours to get Kezerian out of the 

park because of the unforgiving terrain. Before going into 

surgery at St. Charles Medical Center in Bend, an orthopedic 

surgeon told her she shattered her L2 vertebrae. “I remember 

just flat out asking, ‘Am I going to walk again?’ He said it was 

very unlikely, that I had complete paralysis,” Kezerian said. 

Many people would have given up on their dreams of traveling. 

Not Kezerian—she has continued traveling internationally, 

inspiring other people with limited abilities through her 

Instagram page, Wheelies Around the World, to go on adventures 

and find ways to keep traveling. 

In 2016, she returned to the University of Oregon, but not 

for long. She dreamed of studying abroad. The logistics were 

an uphill battle, but a counselor helped make it happen. “No 

one ever said, ‘This is going to be too hard. Don’t do it,’” she 

said. “Everyone was like, ‘This might be hard, but we’re so up 

for the challenge.’” 

Kezerian traveled internationally before her injury, but knew 

it would be different after. She says a lot of the problems that 

come up for her while traveling now would surprise able-bodied 

people. “The biggest piece with traveling for long periods of 

time, for people with spinal cord injuries, is making sure you’re 

not sitting on your bum for too long,” Kezerian said. “For some 

people, there’s no muscle tissue down there so it’s easy to get 

pressure sores.” 

She said all airplanes are supposed to have an aisle chair that 

can help people who use a wheelchair get on and off the flight 

and allow them to have access to the bathroom during the 

flight—but in her experience, not everyone is fully trained to use 

them. “I personally will just hold it for eleven hours,” Kezerian 

said. If that’s not an option, she’ll book a layover to make sure 

she has proper access to a bathroom during her travels. 

While studying abroad in Vienna, Austria, Kezerian found it 

to be more accessible than many places she visited in Europe. “I 

stayed in a vacation rental in Paris where there was an elevator, 

but it wasn’t wide enough for my chair … my friends were super 

resourceful, though. I would stay in the elevator and the boys 

would meet me at the top with my chair,” Kezerian said. The 

“top” was six flights up. Bathrooms in Europe were a constant 

struggle for Kezerian. Most the time they weren’t accessible 

and even if they qualified as accessible in the particular place, 

Kezerian said the requirements weren’t the same as 

in the United States. “Most door widths in the U.S. 

are just wide enough to fit the size wheelchair that I 

have,” Kezerian said. “In Europe they are way smaller, 


VisitLongBeachPeninsula.com

adventure 

“Helping people see that the 

entire world is there, you just 

have to approach it strategically, 

that’s been very fulfilling.” 

— Alysia Kezerian 

so sometimes I’d have to pop a wheel off of my chair and have 

someone help me through.” 

The struggles she’s had traveling all seem insignificant 

against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, the Swiss Alps or 

the canals in Amsterdam, but they did inspire her to create 

a platform for people who use wheelchairs to share their 

experiences traveling. Kezerian launched Wheelies Around 

the World on Instagram in July 2017 and built a following of 

nearly 5,000 people. 

She’s received messages from people who never thought 

they’d be able to travel internationally again. “Helping people 

see that the entire world is there, you just have to approach 

it strategically, that’s been very fulfilling,” Kezerian said. The 

page also gained a following from able-bodied people. “I didn’t 

make the page with the thought of creating any sort of social 

change, but it’s cool how that has sort of come along with it.” 

Since her injury, Kezerian has graduated college, traveled 

to thirteen countries and now works as an administrative 

assistant in San Francisco. She’s also baffled doctors by taking 

steps on her own. 

At St. Charles in 2015, she noticed her hip flexor twitching, 

but doctors told her that was normal. She didn’t get her hopes 

up. “I took what they said to heart. You know that it happens 

sometimes—signals get through,” Kezerian said. That twitch 

was always in the back of her mind, and now she’s regained use 

of about twenty muscles in her legs. 

Doctors can’t tell her why she’s regained the use of some of 

her muscles. “Spinal cord injuries are probably one of the most 

ambiguous injuries you could possibly get,” Kezerian said. 

“There’s just not enough research to give a definitive answer.” 

Now that she’s taken steps on her own and even climbed 

flights of stairs, she’s unsure of what her future holds. 

“I feel like my head is sort of being split between two worlds 

right now—the world of accepting being in a wheelchair and 

learning to love it and celebrating that … but then also really 

wanting to walk,” Kezerian said. 

One thing she’s sure of is that there’s no end in sight for 

Wheelies Around the World. “I’ll always have a part of my life 

where I was in a wheelchair and I know what it’s like to be 

treated differently, and I know what it’s like to try and travel in 

it,” Kezerian said. “So even if I did start walking again, there’s a 

huge part of me that still can really empathize with people in 

that situation.” 


Introducing 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P R O PAGATION TO P I N T 

Born a t OSU. Grown in Wil lamette Valley. 

Brewe d 

in Bend. 

WORTHY BREWING PUB 

495 NE Bellevue Dr., Bend 

worthybrewing.com 

WORTHY TAPS & TACOS 

806 NW Brooks St., Bend 

worthytapstacos.com

HISTORY 

Nestled deep in the ruggedly beautiful 

360,000-acre Eagle Cap Wilderness, 

this unique property is the result of 

a painstaking six-year buildout by 

Portland-based owner Barnes Ellis, who 

first stumbled upon the lodge while 

attending a childhood family reunion. 

Carefully constructing the main lodge 

and adjacent cabins from felled logs, 

reclaimed wood from former structures 

and building materials delivered via 

helicopter, Ellis reopened the lodge 

in 2017, instantly attracting a diverse 

collection of intrepid guests willing to go 

the extra mile (or eight) for a one-of-akind 

backcountry experience. 

Photos: Evan Schneider 

DINING 

A hearty appetite is mandatory ’round 

these parts—with the help of a rotating 

crew of live-in staff members who pitch 

in to chop vegetables, pour wine and 

wash dishes, executive chef Carl Krause 

turns out epic ranch breakfasts like 

house-cured pastrami hash with thick 

wedges of buttery German pancake, and 

show-stopping family-style suppers that 

might involve smoked Carman Ranch 

rib-eyes and dark chocolate brownies 

smothered in smoked cherry compote 

one night, and juicy roast Hawkins 

Sisters Ranch chickens with homemade 

brown butter spaetzle and charred 

Walla Walla onion salsa the next. Lured 

by the ring of an old-fashioned dinner 

bell, guests gather to feast in the highceilinged 

dining room overlooking the 

meadow, forging new friendships over 

Minam Margaritas, bottles of Willamette 

Valley pinot noir and pints of the lodge’s 

signature IPA, brewed by Enterprisebased 

Terminal Gravity. 

ACTIVITIES 

With no cell service or internet to 

speak of, days are filled with whatever 

wilderness activity suits your frontier 

fantasy—horseback riding along the 

wild-trout-packed Minam River, hiking 

the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest’s 

535 miles of trail, or paying a visit to 

nearby Red’s Horse Ranch, a National 

Forest Service-owned former dude ranch 

frozen in time. Come nightfall, sit on the 

deck with a single malt scotch and trade 

tales with fellow cabin dwellers, or tramp 

through the forest to the wood-fired hot 

tub for a soak under the stars—zero light 

interference means a dazzling celestial 

display—contemplating life, love and 

what delights tomorrow’s breakfast 

menu might bring. 

Lodging 

Minam River Lodge 


WHETHER DROPPING into the Minam River Lodge via foot, horseback, 

or chartered flight, there are two things you’ll do immediately after being 

warmly greeted by manager and jack-of-all-trades Isaac Trout—sign a 

waiver detailing the potential wilderness perils you’ll face (snakes, bears, 

overheating in the wood-fired sauna), and write your name on a mason 

jar. After all, when you’re an 8.5-mile hike or 20-minute flight from the 

nearest sign of civilization, dishwashers aren’t exactly de rigueur. 

EAGLE CAP WILDERNESS 

minam-lodge.com 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The lodge offers suites as 

well as cabins. From the lodge deck, views include 

the Wallowa Mountains. Guests eat dinner together.

It’s the most beautiful 

coast in the world. 

Face it. 

Experience exceptional lodging and 

dining at Oregon’s only resort hotel built 

right on the beach. All guest and 

meeting rooms are oceanfront with 

floor-to-ceiling windows that frame 

glorious sunsets, spectacular cloud 

formations and the ocean waves. And, 

some say you can actually see the curve 

of the earth as you enjoy breakfast, 

lunch, dinner, or a drink at Fathoms, our 

penthouse restaurant and bar. 

Visit our website for gift certificates, 

special rates, menus, and unique 

lodging packages. 

4009 SW Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 

800-452-8127 

SpanishHead.com 

Diamond Lake Resort 

Oregon’s gem of the Cascades 

YEAR-ROUND RECREATION, MINUTES FROM 

CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 

Broken Top, Fiber with Overstitching, Lisa & Lori Lubbesmeyer 

31of Central Oregon’s 

most accomplished artists. 

2 galleries. 

In1 block. 

Lubbesmeyer 

Studio & Gallery 

L U B B E S M E Y E R . C O M 

350 Resort Drive, Diamond Lake, ORegon | 541.793.3333 | diamondlake.net 

Tumalo Art Co. 

T U M A L O A R T C O . C O M 

Purity, 

watercolor, Sarah B. Hansen 

Stallion, cast bronze & glass, Danae Bennett-Miller 

ART in Bend’s OLD MILL DISTRICT

trip planner 

Shoulder Season 

Turns out, Bend is a year-round kind of town 

written by Kevin Max 

The Old Mill is Bend’s premier 

shopping destination. 

BEND IN FALL, once a vacuum between summer mountain biking 

and ski season, is now one built around culture, the absence of 

crowds and top-to-bottom blue skies in the waning fire season. 

When kids go back to school and the floating battalion of protein 

in Crocs and flip-flops flops their way back south, Bend comes alive 

in a more subtle way. Fall brings the BendFilm festival, Oktoberfest, 

uncrowded trails, relatively open tables and the final bounty from 

area farms. 

As we witness the ravages of global 

warming, with hotter summers 

leading to more and bigger wildfires, 

summer is the nexus of hot, smoky 

and grey. As temperatures cool 

and wildfires recede, hiking and 

biking trails in Bend transform from 

temptation to reality. 

Much like Christmas, BendFilm 

Festival comes but once a year— 

setting cultural gifts under the 

learning tree for all of the boys and 

girls who have tired of formulaic 

box office hits. It’s a time to travel 

without leaving your theater seat, 

a time to walk a mile in the shoes 

of others through the ambitious 

billing of documentary films, and a 

time to meet upcoming actors and 

filmmakers during BendFilm parties. 

Spanning a long weekend of October 

11-14 and many venues, the fifteenth 

annual festival brings in great films 

and turns out the best in Bendites. 

Day 

OUTDOORS • BENDFILM FEST 

Sparks Lake, in the shadow of 

Mount Bachelor, is an emerald-green 

body of water that many flock to in 

the summer. In September, however, 

the crowd recedes and its true beauty 

emerges. Now is the best time to grab 

your standup paddleboard (or rent one 

in town) and stroke your way across 

its pristine surface. Be sure to bring 

a camera in a waterproof bag. You’ll 

definitely want to save this scene and 

this memory. Pick up some sandwiches 

or sushi at Newport Avenue Market 

and bring a picnic lunch. When you 

stop on the banks of Sparks 

in September, you’ll notice 

that mosquitoes, too, are 

gone for the year. 


trip planner 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Sparks Lake has 

views and solitude. Rainshadow Organics 

offers farm-to-table dinners. Wild Rose 

isn’t your average Thai spot. Gravel riding 

is a very Bend pursuit. 

Zach Violett 

Megan Morse 

Megan Morse 


trip planner 

For those who prefer terra firma, or if you have a mixed group of 

interests, try the nearby Green Lakes Trail just up the road. This hike is 

a consistent climb of 1,100 over 4.2 miles up to a mountain lake. This 

is another beautiful place for a picnic lunch or merely to dip your feet 

in the cold water. You can either double back from there or go the full 

loop by taking the Soda Creek Trail. Either way, the average round trip 

without a lunch stop will take four to six hours. 

Back in downtown Bend, the BendFilm Festival is abuzz in theaters, 

restaurants and bars. Now in its fifteenth year, the film fest brings in 

some of the best up-and-coming filmmakers, who mingle with festivalgoers 

and are incredibly accessible at BendFilm parties throughout 

the weekend. This is a good chance to step out of the mind-numbing 

blockbuster formula and get back to a mindset of active film watching. 

Downtown Bend offers an ever-increasing palate of restaurants and 

cuisines. After a film, stay downtown and duck down the back side of 

Tower Theatre for Oaxacan tacos and craft beer at Taps & Tacos, a new 

cultural offering from Worthy Brewing. Wild Rose, a cozy northern 

Thai restaurant on Oregon Avenue, serves up beautifully spiced dishes 

like manna. Zydeco Kitchen + Cocktails offers a refined Southern and 

Cajun menu that updates American classics in the process. 

If you have an ambitious travel planner in your party, get a reservation 

for a longtable dinner at Rainshadow Organics, a 40-minute drive into 

neighboring Sisters. This experience on a stunning organic farm will 

last well beyond your weekend. 

Day 

LOCAL BITES • GRAVEL RIDING • CRATER LAKE SPIRITS 

Megan Morse 

Sparrow Bakery in Northwest Crossing is one of the best ways to 

start any day. Handmade pastries with good local coffees fuel the 

buzzing bakery. Downtown, La Magie Bakery is the place for french 

toast stuffed with marionberry and mascarpone cheese and dipped 

in custard. Either of these bakeries should get your day started on the 

right foot. 

When you ponder Bend in the high desert, Ponderosa pines 

dominate the landscape of that reverie. Shevlin Park, on the northwest 

side of Bend, however, is situated around the babbling beauty of 

Tumalo Creek. Aspens and Western Larches mark the changing of the 

season with vibrant yellows in an otherwise evergreen forest. There 

is the 2.5-mile Tumalo Creek Trail that meanders along the western 

bank of the creek and the scenic 6-mile loop if you’re feeling up to it. 

From the parking lot, it’s easy to right-size your hike—whether you’re 

with small kids or determined thru-hikers. 

By now, you know about gravel riding and the miles of trails in and 

around Bend. You may have even ponied up for your own gravel bike. 

No matter—there are some stunning vistas up toward Tumalo or out 

toward Sisters that only gravel bikers will witness. Check in with one 

of the local bike shops—Sunnyside Sports, Pine Mountain Sports or 

Crow’s Feet Commons. 

If you have small kids, for whom the world is a wonder a 

day, definitely take them to the High Desert Museum south 

of Bend. There, they can be themselves in the company 


trip planner 

BEND, OREGON 

EAT 

Newport Avenue 

Market 

newportavenuemarket. 

com 

Worthy Taps & Tacos 

worthytapstacos.com 

Wild Rose 

wildrosethai.com 

Zydeco Kitchen + 

Cocktails 

zydeco kitchen.com 

Rainshadow Organics 

rainshadoworganics.com 

Joolz 

joolzbend.com 

FROM TOP Crater Lake 

Spirits tasting room offers 

mini cocktails. Worthy 

Taps & Tacos adds 

Oaxacan flavor to Bend. 

Photos: Megan Morse 

La Magie 

lamagiecafe.com 

STAY 

Oxford Hotel 

oxfordhotelbend.com 

Best Western Premier 

Peppertree Inn at Bend 

bestwesternpremierbend. 

com 

Springhill Suites 

marriott.com 

PLAY 

BendFilm 

bendfilm.org 

Oktoberfest 

bendoktoberfest.com 

Crow’s Feet Commons 

crowsfeetcommons.com 

Crater Lake Spirits 

craterlakespirits.com 

High Desert Museum 

highdesertmuseum.org 

of wild beasts, such as raptors, lynx, otters 

and eagles. A new exhibit called High Desert 

Dreams—The Lost Homesteads of the Fort 

Rock Basin, is a stunning black-and-white 

photography portfolio not to miss. 

Grab a bite at Primal Cuts on Galveston 

Avenue, where you’ll find choice cuts of 

locally raised meats in tasty variations from 

charcuterie boards to tortas with housemade 

carnitas. Or go al fresco on the back deck of the 

small neighborhood tavern, Brother Jon’s across 

the street. A little farther east on Galveston is 

Sunriver Brewing, a nice atmosphere with good 

beer and food. Options abound on Galveston. 

If you’re in town during BendFilm, the 

theaters are still hopping with film shorts and 

features. If you time your visit for September 

21-22, you will stumble into Bend’s Oktoberfest, 

a booming festival that shuts streets down to 

cars and opens them to music stages, the Bend 

Beer Choir, wiener dog races, food carts and, of 

course, local craft brews. 

If Oktoberfest isn’t happening, try the Crater 

Lake Spirits tasting room on Bond Street. This 

small-batch distiller has won awards for its gins 

and vodkas made in its distillery in Tumalo, just 

outside Bend. Or pop over to the Old Mill for 

Walla Walla-made wine at Va Piano Vineyards 

tasting room. While you’re in the Old Mill 

District, remember the things you don’t have 

at home and stop for rare spices from around 

the world and, of course, REI for your next 

camping or skiing odyssey. 

Joolz, with its Mediterranean-infused menu, 

is a good place to end the night. Chef Ramsey 

Hamdan brings his Beirut childhood to plates 

in Bend. Share small plates of hummus, baba 

ghanouj, kibbe and lamb kebabs. Try the Beirut 

cocktail, a whiskey and lemon concoction that 

sets everything right. 

Try like hell to save room for Bonta gelato, 

just a stroll down the street. Flavors from 

India and Zanzibar permeate the shop and 

are incorporated into some of the dozenplus 

flavors. 

If you’ve targeted the BendFilm weekend, 

be sure to finish strong with a Sunday show 

that transports you to another world before 

reentering your own—remembering the words 

of Robin Williams from Dead Poets Society, 

“Carpe Diem. Seize the day, boys. Make your 

lives extraordinary.” 


Open September 21 through January 20 

NEW EXHIBIT 

59800 South Highway 97 | Bend, Oregon 97702 

541-382-4754 | highdesertmuseum.org 

Smithsonian 

Affiliate 

Mother and Child 

This exhibition has been organized by the Christopher Cardozo Collection and is 

circulated through GuestCurator Traveling Exhibitions. 

This exhibition has been funded in part by the Oregon Heritage Commission, 

Oregon Parks and Recreation Department. 

An adventure center 

in downtown Bend 

featuring the finest collection 

of beer, an awesome patio, 

and a full-service specialty 

ski and bike shop 

875 NW Brooks St. on Mirror Pond 

541-728-0066 | crowsfeetcommons.com 

“I took the road less traveled, and that has made all the difference” —Robert Frost

northwest destination 

A Phoenix From the Ashes 

Sonoma County won’t let a fire stop its spirit 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

A YEAR AGO, Sonoma County and surrounding areas were 

crippled by a massive wildfire. Rolling hills were blackened, 

vineyards were damaged, and homes destroyed, but the fires 

did nothing to dampen the area’s spirit. 

Indeed, nearly every street-facing surface in the area still 

features stickers that say #SonomaStrong or handmade signs 

thanking firefighters for their help in saving residents’ homes. 

There’s no better way to support this community as it gets back 

on its feet than by spending some tourism dollars in the region. 

I was happy to oblige. 

Glen Ellen was particularly hard-hit by the fires. But the 

Jack London Lodge in Glen Ellen, where I stayed on a recent 

weekend, was spared. This renovated motel, tucked into a lush 

hillside, has charm, free breakfast, and one heck of a bar. 

Right up the hill from the lodge sits Benziger Family Winery, 

which is a great spot to learn more about how wine is made. 

The winery, which practices biodynamic and green farming, 

offers tram tours through the vineyards, into the winery and 

even a peek at the wine cave, all while tasting glasses of its wide 

variety of wines. 

Keep traveling up London Ranch Road and you’ll find Jack 

London State Historic Park. This is the author’s Beauty Ranch. 

He bought much of the acreage in 1905 with a dream of 

innovating agriculture, including with his pig palace, a circular 

pig pen he designed. The remains of the ranch, including ruins 

of the Wolf House and the winery, are compelling. They’re 

also the site of Broadway Under the Stars, a concert series that 

combines music, picnicking and wine. 

To get a true historic sense of Sonoma, swing through 

Sonoma Plaza, a national historic landmark that has the last 

Spanish mission, built by Franciscan priests in 1824 and 

established under a Mexican government that had recently 

gained independence from Spain. The historic adobe structures 

are open to the public. 

The plaza features a lot more than just history—it’s also 

chock full of top restaurants and shopping. Sit on the back 

patio of the girl & the fig for a croque monsieur or swing by El 

Dorado Kitchen for a weekend brunch—brioche french toast, 

anyone? Then finish the tour at one of more than two dozen 

wine tasting rooms on the plaza, including Hawkes Winery, 

which has a bright patio for good people watching and some 

killer cabernet sauvignon. 

If you’re not a huge wine person, never fear—Sonoma and its 

surrounds have plenty of other activities to recommend. Heck, 

even the wineries have non-alcoholic options. For example, 

Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville has a movie gallery 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Sonoma 

City Hall sits at the center of the historic 

plaza. Benziger Family Winery practices 

biodynamic farming. Sonoma’s mission 

sits at the edge of the plaza. The 

California Cheese Trail has many stops 

in the area. The Francis Ford Coppola 

Winery has movie memorabilia. 

stuffed with memorabilia like Academy Awards and set pieces 

from The Godfather. It also has two beautiful swimming pools 

to escape the late summer heat. 

Know that if you’d prefer beer or cider (or even a cocktail), 

there are options aplenty—Lagunitas is based in Petaluma, and 

Russian River Brewing, of Pliny the Elder fame, has its brew pub 

in Santa Rosa. Lesser-known breweries also dot the region and 

offer tastings and tours, just like their famous winery friends. 

Maybe cheese is your thing? The California Cheese Trail 

features forty-four cheesemakers from all over the state, but 

nine of them are in the Sonoma area, and they’re filled with 

delicious ways to indulge. 

With its fine wine and estates built into the rolling hills, 

Sonoma County can seem like a moneyed place for the urban 

visitor. But remember, there are dozens of farms growing all 


northwest destination 

SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA 

EAT 

the girl & the fig 

thegirlandthefig.com 

El Dorado Kitchen 

eldoradosonoma.com 

Sonoma Market 

sonomamarket.net 

Spinster Sisters 

thespinstersisters.com 

STAY 

Jack London Lodge 

jacklondonlodge.com 

Astro Motel 

theastro.com 

AutoCamp Russian River 

autocamp.com 

MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa 

macarthurplace.com 

PLAY 

The Barlow 

thebarlow.net 

The Cheese Trail 

cheesetrail.org 

BR Cohn 

brcohn.com 

Benziger Family Winery 

benziger.com 

Jack London State Historic Park 

jacklondonpark.com 

kinds of crops and livestock hidden around the area. As a result, 

the farmers markets are divine, with offerings from local honey 

and fresh produce to artisan foods and handmade crafts. You 

can also find plenty of homegrown flavor at Sonoma Market, 

the locals’ grocery store, including some of the best Caesar 

salad dressing in history. 

A local friend and I headed one afternoon to B.R. Cohn, an 

understated winery in the hills of Glen Ellen. There, we had a 

wine and food pairing, then bought oysters from a man who 

brings his catch each day from Tomales Bay. We were similarly 

tempted by the winery’s excellent olive oils, which were the first 

produced in California in a century when B.R. Cohn started 

making them in 1990. 

While B.R. Cohn is a great stop, it’s impossible to estimate 

just how many wineries are tucked around each corner. A good 

rule is to never go to more than four or five in a day (and four 

is a lot), and to remember that most of the fun is exploring a 

new setting and taking the time to enjoy the wine. Plus, really, 

there’s little bad wine to be tasted. On my list to check out this 

visit was The Donum Estate, which focuses on pinot noir and 

has an outdoor sculpture gallery throughout its 200-acre estate. 

This is not someone’s grandma’s art—this is Ai Weiwei, Keith 

Haring and Anselm Kiefer-level art. 

For a more hipster experience, Scribe is a reservations-only 

spot started in 2007. The wine is great, the vibe is very cool, and 

the last time I was there I sat in a giant tree swing. Or try Three 

Sticks Wines, another reservation-only spot but this one right in 

downtown Sonoma. Located in the Vallejo-Casteñada Adobe, 

the winery offers tastings and food pairings and is a tremendous 

example of historic preservation. Bonus: the wines are delicious. 


VISIT US IN CASCADE LOCKS! 

Spectacular views 

Next to the Bridge of the Gods 

Each Best Western ® branded hotel is independently owned and operated. 

• Waterfall viewing, 

hiking, biking, sailing 

and more. 

• Indoor pool and spa 

• Complimentary hot 

breakfast 

735 Wanapa St. 

Cascade Locks, OR 97014 

bwcolumbiariverinn.com 

1-800-595-7108 

12 Unique Burgers • Subs • Sandwiches • Fish & Chips 

Fast, Friendly Family Dining with Amazing Views 

Exit 44 off I-84 • bridgesidedining.com • 541-374-8477 • 6:30am-8pm 

Cascade Locks 

THE HEART OF THE GORGE 

#VisitCascadeLocks 

www.cascadelocks.com 

Bridge of 

the Goddess 

Half Marathon 

& 10K 

Saturday, September 15 

runwithpaula.com/bridge-of-thegoddess-half-marathon-10k 

Oregon Gambler 500 

Winter Wonderland 

Friday thru Sunday, October 5 to 7 

www.facebook.com/ 

gambler500winterwonderland

EXPLORE OREGON 

eat + stay + play 

ARBORBROOK 

VINEYARDS 

ArborBrook Vineyards is a boutique 

producer of exceptional handcrafted 

wines. Family-owned and operated, it 

is located in the heart of Oregon wine 

country in the Chehalem Mountain 

AVA. Visit the tasting room for a 

relaxing and casual wine tasting 

experience. Weekdays, 11– 4:30. 

Weekends, 11–5. 

503.538.0959 

17770 NE Calkins Ln. 

NEWBERG 

arborbrookwines.com 

CHRISTMAS TREASURES 

A Christmas Experience! Christmas 

Treasures brings you the most treasured 

ornaments and items for gift giving and 

collecting. Start a new family tradition. 

Come experience the Old World charm, 

and see our unique products not only 

during the holiday season but all through 

the year. A family business for 24 years. 

Featuring: Jim Shore, Dept. 56, Possible 

Dreams, German Nutcrackers and 

Smokers, Nativities, Charming Tails, 

Michel Design Works and so much 

more. Located on Highway 126, 40 miles 

east of Eugene. 

800.820.8189 

52959 McKenzie Hwy. 

BLUE RIVER 

christmas-treasures.com 

THUMP COFFEE 

At Thump, every coffee has a unique 

story. Through years of perfecting and 

simplifying the process, Thump is able 

to honor the journey, the complexities 

and the people that are inseparable 

from every coffee it roasts. Located 

in the heart of downtown Bend, 

Thump serves coffee with enthusiastic 

customer service and the utmost 

integrity. Don’t just drink coffee— 

experience it. 

541.388.0226 

25 NW Minnesota Ave. 

BEND 

thumpcoffee.com 

BALCH HOTEL 

Recently named #1 Fan-Favorite Travel 

Destination in the Columbia River Gorge, 

and #7 in Oregon! With 300 days of 

sunshine, the Balch’s on-site dining, spa 

services, sunny patio, garden grounds and 

majestic Mt. Hood views inspire getaways 

for rejuvenation and reconnection. The 

vintage elegance of this historic country 

inn, surrounded by the golden expanse 

of wide open meadows and big sky, 

produces clarity of mind and heart that 

settles the soul. 

541.467.2277 

40 S. Heimrich St. 

DUFUR 

balchhotel.com 

BRIDGEWATER BISTRO 

Ann and Tony Kischner’s Bridgewater 

Bistro is a full-service restaurant in Astoria 

on the banks of the Columbia River, just 

below the majestic Astoria-Megler Bridge 

to Washington. The restaurant is open 

seven days a week, serving lunch, dinner 

and Sunday brunch, and diners can catch 

live local music Wednesday through 

Sunday. The bistro serves a diverse and 

affordable menu of small plates, soups, 

salads and main courses that focus on 

regional products, and menus are 90 

percent available gluten-free. Breads and 

desserts are baked in house. Order from 

the full bar and award-winning wine list, 

specializing in regional vineyards. 

503.325.6777 

20 Basin St. 

ASTORIA 

bridgewaterbistro.com 


HISTORIC HOTEL PRAIRIE 

Located at the base of the Strawberry 

Mountain Wilderness Area, Hotel 

Prairie is the prime location for 

recreational activities. Plan for several 

nights so you can hike, fish, kayak and 

bike! Then during your downtime, you 

can relax in the hotel lobby, backyard 

patio or our wine/beer lounge. Scenery 

and history abound as you travel to 

and from Prairie City as we are on the 

Old West Scenic Bikeway and Journey 

Through Time Byway. We’ll guide you 

to the best sights and museums around. 

Hotel Prairie is just steps away from 

restaurants and shops. You can even 

charge your EV or Tesla at our charging 

stations while here. Come. Stay. 

541.820.4800 

112 Front St. 

PRAIRIE CITY 

hotelprairie.com

“Laura, Natalie and their team were very helpful 

and attentive to our needs in our entire 

transaction from beginning to end. We received a 

very fair price for our beautiful home of 14 years, 

and the process was seamless and surprisingly 

smooth. Laura and Natalie kept us informed 

along the way of the status of all showings and 

took care of our home while we were away. I 

highly recommend these ladies and their team.” 

DREAM BIG 

Bend, Oregon 

A 

B 

A 3333 NW F 60234 

Tetherow Bridge Lp. Tekampe Rd. 

$2,500,000 $895,000 

B 63970 

G 62733 

Tyler Rd. 

Imbler Dr. 

$2,750,000 $880,000 

E 

C 

1569 NW 

Wild Rye Cir. 

$1,699,000 

H 625 SW 

Otter Way 

$830,000 

C 

D 

G 

H 

D 1716 NW I 20845 

Welcome Ct. Chloe Ln. 

$1,150,000 $574,900 

E 

63160 

Riverstone Dr. 

$935,000 

J 20157 

Stonegate Dr. 

$479,000 

F 

I 

J 

Laura Blossey, Broker 

949.887.4377 

laura.blossey@sothebysrealty.com 

Natalie Vandenborn, Broker 

541.508.9581 

nvandenborn@gmail.com 

Brokers are Licensed in the State of Oregon. 

www.experiencebendliving.com

1859 MAPPEDThe points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1859. 

Florence 

Coos Bay 

Astoria 

Seaside 

Pacific City 

Lincoln City 

Newport 

Portland 

Tillamook 

Corvallis 

Eugene 

Salem 

Albany 

Gresham 

Springfield 

Oakridge 

Hood River 

The Dalles 

Maupin 

Government 

Camp 

Sisters 

Madras 

Bend 

Sunriver 

Prineville 

Redmond 

Burns 

La Grande 

John Day 

Milton-Freewater 

Pendleton 

Baker City 

Joseph 

Ontario 

Bandon 

Roseburg 

Grants Pass 

Jacksonville 

Paisley 

Brookings 

Medford 

Ashland 

Klamath Falls 

Lakeview 

Live 

Think 

Explore 

22 

Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival 

60 

ViewPlus 

90 

Queen of Angels Monastery 

26 

Portland Baroque Orchestra 

62 

Hayward Field 

92 

Smith Rock State Park 

32 

Wild About Game 

64 

He Sells These Shells 

96 

Minam River Lodge 

36 

Blue Heron Farm 

66 

Baseballism 

98 

Bend 

54 

Artback Murals 

68 

Outside In 

104 

Sonoma Plaza 


Pursuing excellence 

through fitness 

61615 Athletic Club Drive (541) 385-3062

Until Next Time 

Home Is Where Oregon Is 

written by Maiah Miller 

THE LOVE I FEEL for Oregon grows in my life much like the native pine tree. I have a delicate 

version inked on my wrist as a constant reminder of the Pacific Northwest, and each flash of the 

boughs peeking from my sleeve reminds me of home. 

As a military spouse, I move often, seemingly farther away from my birthplace of Eugene with 

each duty station. I carry this love for my home state like a security blanket. It is something I can 

reach for and cling to in times of homesickness. Oregon invades my thoughts when daydreaming, 

like the fog along the coast. I find ways to weave my love of the state into my life, even when I’m 

physically far from the valley I grew up in. 

When I first left the state to move with my twin to 

Texas, we followed the only car with Oregon license 

plates we had seen in the vast state and eagerly accosted 

them when they parked, excitedly asking them where 

they were from. After much confusion, we realized they 

were driving a rental car and had no idea their license 

plates were Oregon plates. 

When my husband deployed for the second time to 

Afghanistan, going home was my lifesaver. I loaded up 

my car with running shoes and our newly adopted puppy 

and drove sixteen hours straight to Eugene. Eugene was 

my refuge for those long months of separation, and it 

was only the safe return of my Marine that made me 

travel back to San Diego. 

Our next duty station was Monterey, and this time 

the drive to Oregon was shorter. In nine hours I could 

be home, running the Amazon trail, sipping coffee 

with my mother at Noisette bakery, dancing at Ballet 

Fantastique or simply roaming the aisles of Market of 

Choice. Eugene made my heart beat faster. The cleaner 

air, the greener trees and abundant organic and healthier 

food invigorated me. 

Even having twins didn’t slow me down. Becoming a 

new mother released a maternal longing for my native 

home, so I counted down the days until I could bring my 

new family to Oregon. After my girls were born (while 

my husband was on assignment), I convinced my friend 

in Portland to fly down and drive me back with my tiny 

infants. The twins made their first trip to Oregon at six 

months, with a joyful whoop from me when crossing 

the state line (instantly regretted when I remembered 

the little babies sleeping in the backseat). Even if they 

wouldn’t remember their first Oregon trip, I wanted my 

girls to be immersed in the love I have for Oregon. 

When my husband was finally on leave and able to 

travel with us, I delighted in navigating my favorite 

trails and coffee shops as a family. It was a wonderful 

experience to introduce him to “all things Oregon”, and 

show him the beauty of my state. 

Now I am almost the farthest away I could be while 

still remaining in the U.S., and I have to bite my tongue 

to keep from critically comparing everything to my 

beloved Oregon. (It’s not this humid in Oregon! We 

have scenic running trails in Oregon. In Oregon you can 

actually find vegan restaurants. Oregon doesn’t have 

these terrible spider-cricket hybrids. And so on.) 

When I force myself to stay in the present, I appreciate 

my current community. I’m meeting new friends and 

exploring the state we temporarily call home. But the 

pine tree on my wrist reminds me of where my heart is 

and I find myself dreaming of the day we load up the car 

and head west to Oregon—this time for good. 


We’ve been proudly protecting 

our furry friends and finding 

them loving homes since 1868. 

Thank you for helping us 

help them. 

oregonhumane.org 

Creative Services Donated by Leopold Ketel

RANGE ROVER VELAR 

STUNNING AND 

LUXURIOUS BY DESIGN 

Beyond the legendary capabilities that come with 70 years 

of Land Rover heritage, the new Range Rover Velar has been 

named 2018 World Car Design of the Year at the World Car 

Awards. 

Combining avant-garde design with time honored engineering 

excellence, the new Range Rover Velar is the latest iteration of 

the Official Vehicle of the Northwest Experience. 

Visit Land Rover Portland to experience the all new Range 

Rover Velar. 

Land Rover Portland 

A Don Rasmussen Company 

720 NE Grand Avenue 

503.230.7700 

landroverportland.com

1859 Sept | Oct 2018

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