1859 Sept | Oct 2018

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farm to table FROM LEFT Peter Dinsdale started growing kiwi fruit in 1994. Ben Dinsdale holds a bin of kiwi berries at Blue Heron Farm. bud break. Dinsdale has lost plenty of fruit to chilly spring mornings. In addition, the market for kiwi berries hasn’t taken off the way its early American champions hoped it would. “The returns have been acceptable,” he said. “It’s sort of worth it.” Given his investment in this crop, tearing out the plants would not be worth it, he believes. Besides, they’ve grown on him after all these years. “I find it an aesthetically pleasing crop, with the large canopy and the trellises and the way the vines twine around everything,” he said. The plants have exfoliating bark that flakes and peels all along the trunks, which gives them a rugged and appealing look. And like most people, he’s quite taken by the taste of the berries. “I’m a nut about eating fresh fruit,” he said. “The nice thing about these is when we’re finishing picking, there’s still kiwis out here until the first hard frost. So I can keep coming out here and picking a cupful for fresh eating. They’ll be ripe and sweet on the vine until then.” Dr. Bernadine Strik, the berry crops research leader at the North Willamette Research and Extension Center in Aurora, has long been a champion of kiwi berries. She confirms and expands on many of the challenges Dinsdale has faced growing them. The plants aren’t quite cold-hardy enough, and the tender vines are susceptible to breaking when gusty winds come up. “Pollination is a problem because bees like kiwi, but they like raspberries and blackberries better.” But she, too, hopes the hardy kiwi industry in Oregon will grow. “It’s an expensive crop to grow because you need lots of labor per acre to prune and harvest them, and the plants and trellises are expensive,” she said. “But it’s a high-value crop even if it’s small.” Kiwis of all sorts are most commonly used in desserts. Chef Ryley Eckersley with Quaintrelle, a North Portland restaurant that specializes in New American cuisine, suggests making them into a compote with rhubarb and serving it atop vanilla panna cotta. Another option is to cook them in a simple syrup and use that as the base for a summery cocktail. Bartender Camille Cavan from Quaintrelle calls her kiwi-inspired concoction Long Time Gone, and it gets its own sweet-tart flavor from Pimms liqueur, ginger liqueur and lime juice. “I’m a nut about eating fresh fruit. The nice thing about these is when we’re finishing picking, there’s still kiwis out here until the first hard frost. So I can keep coming out here and picking a cupful for fresh eating. They’ll be ripe and sweet on the vine until then.” — Peter Dinsdale 38 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER <strong>2018</strong>
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1859 Sept | Oct 2018

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