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pg. 94<br />

Washington’s<br />

Best Barbeque<br />

Behind-the-Scenes<br />

Whiskey<br />

Nordic Ski<br />

Adventu<strong>res</strong><br />

Washi<br />

ngton’ s Magazine<br />

Romance<br />

Washington<br />

Style<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<strong>1889</strong>mag.com<br />

$5.95 display until <strong>March</strong> 31, 2017<br />


<strong>Feb</strong>ruary | <strong>March</strong> • volume 1

W ashington’sStoryof<br />

Beer,W ine&Co fee<br />

January21-April23,2017<br />

TakeWashington’suniqueclimateandgeography,add<br />

apasionforbeveragesandatwistofinspirationand<br />

you’ldiscoverhowWashingtonendedupattheforefront<br />

oftheindustryforthesethreewildlypopularbeverages!<br />

1911PacificAvenue,Tacoma<br />

www.W ashingtonHistory.org<br />

1-888-BE-THERE<br />


Go Big in Spokane.<br />

Whether it’s our excellent shopping,<br />

our nationally recognized food scene,<br />

or our raging downtown waterfall,<br />

we’ve got the goods for your unforgettable visit.<br />

Make Spokane your next big thing.<br />

For more information check out, VisitSpokane.com<br />


Aw, Shucks!<br />

photography by Cameron Zegers<br />

Hama Hama Company in Lilliwaup is a fifth-generation, familyrun<br />

shellfish farm. The company, with beds on a cold river in the<br />

Olympic Peninsula, prizes sustainability and grows two varieties<br />

of oysters. Oh, and they’re delicious.<br />

Hama Hama employee Mitch McKasson shucks an<br />

oyster in front of a mountain of shells.

Scenes from Hama Hama Company’s oyster farm.




MEN TIO N<br />

“<strong>1889</strong>”<br />



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FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 • volume 1<br />

62<br />

Last Man on Protection Island<br />

When an islet in the Strait of Juan de Fuca turned<br />

into a wildlife refuge, one man stayed.<br />

written by Dieter Loibner<br />

Jackie Dodd<br />

69<br />

Top 5 Romantic Getaways<br />

These Washington gems are sure to heat things<br />

up with your sweetie.<br />

written by Charyn Pfeuffer<br />

76<br />

Washington’s Whiskey<br />

Behind the scenes at three of Washington’s<br />

whiskey distilleries.<br />

photography by Jackie Dodd<br />

A glass of whiskey at Westland Distillery.



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<strong>Feb</strong>ruary | <strong>March</strong> • volume 1<br />


FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 • volume 1<br />

28<br />

46<br />

Wanata (the Charger), Grand Chief of The Sioux by<br />

Charles Bird King<br />



pg. 94<br />

Washi<br />

ington’<br />

s Magazine<br />

Romance<br />

Washington<br />

Style<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Washington’s<br />

Best Barbeque<br />

Behind-the-Scenes<br />

Whiskey<br />

Nordic Ski<br />

Adventu<strong>res</strong><br />


COVER<br />

What makes Washington special?<br />

illustrated by Michael Williamson<br />

94<br />

14 Editor’s Letter<br />

16 <strong>1889</strong> Online<br />

103 Map of Washington<br />

104 Until Next Time<br />

Ben Lindbloom<br />

Robin Jacobson<br />

LIVE<br />

20 SAY WA?<br />

Declare your Washington pride with local food, art and events that<br />

celebrate this great state.<br />

26 FOOD + DRINK<br />

Our Beervana columnist gives us the inside scoop on crowlers. Track<br />

down the foods you’re craving, from Pullman to Walla Walla, and find the<br />

best barbeque across the state.<br />

32 HOME + DESIGN<br />

Washington’s oyster bounty is nowhere more apparent than at<br />

Hama Hama Company in Lilliwaup. Check out two rebooted Midcentury<br />

modern homes and products to add a little flair to your<br />

own home.<br />

44 MIND + BODY<br />

Rookie sensation Trevor Kennedy, of the Indoor Football League’s<br />

Spokane Empire, talks returning from injury.<br />


How a German couple’s love affair with the American West brought<br />

a large collection of Western art to the Tacoma Art Museum.<br />

THINK<br />

52 STARTUP<br />

Arzeda wants to use nature’s chemistry and biology to find<br />

technological improvements that will feed the world.<br />

54 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />

A look at hotels under construction in Leavenworth, Redmond<br />

and Seattle.<br />


A University of Washington professor is developing insect-sized<br />

robots that could have a variety of applications.<br />


Mt. Baker’s veteran ski patroller talks short commutes and<br />

danger—from avalanches to hungry pine marten.<br />


Salaam Cultural Museum is making a measurable difference to<br />

Syrian refugees and the places that welcome them.<br />



Small-town kitsch is in full effect in Granger, where townspeople<br />

come together each year to build a new dinosaur.<br />


Three top spots for Nordic skiing within a day’s drive—from<br />

Snoqualmie to Ketchum to Whistler.<br />

92 LODGING<br />

The Hotel Monaco in Seattle combines stellar location with fun perks.<br />


Get your whale-watching (and sea lion-watching and seal-watching<br />

and porpoise-watching) fix with a trip to San Juan Island.<br />


Schweitzer Mountain Resort and nearby Sandpoint, Idaho offer<br />

big skiing and small-town flair.

Reservations ::: 800.553.8225<br />

Take a Tour ::: campbells<strong>res</strong>ort.com<br />

A tradition of hospitality on Lake Chelan.






I’ve been writing about beer<br />

Having the opportunity to<br />

My wanderlust, curiosity<br />

I am a native Pacific<br />

for a while now, and let’s be<br />

photograph on Protection<br />

and freelance writing career<br />

Northwesterner, a photographer<br />

honest—it never gets old. Not<br />

Island just off Port Angeles<br />

frequently take me all over<br />

and an environmentalist.<br />

just the fact that my job is to<br />

came from a chance meeting<br />

the globe, but I feel extremely<br />

Among ample opportunities to<br />

drink beer and write about<br />

with the Island’s last remaining<br />

lucky to have called the PNW<br />

travel around the world doing<br />

it, but because the industry<br />

<strong>res</strong>ident, Marty Bluewater.<br />

home for more than five years.<br />

what I love, the PNW and its<br />

is evolving so quickly. It’s a<br />

As we approached the dock<br />

In this stunning corner of our<br />

abundant beauty always draw<br />

fascinating world where science<br />

soaked in bird poop Marty told<br />

country, I have learned to love<br />

me back. I love spending time<br />

and art merge into something<br />

me I would never see a place<br />

hiking, camping, lattes, that<br />

photographing the people,<br />

that you can drink with friends.<br />

like this again anywhere in the<br />

laid-back West Coast vibe and,<br />

places and culture that make the<br />

It’s an incredible community<br />

world. I didn’t believe him at<br />

of course, local specialties—like<br />

PNW what it is; even though I<br />

that I’ll never tire of sharing.<br />

first, but after he jumpstarted<br />

oysters—too!<br />

am a vegetarian and allergic to<br />

“Beervana,”<br />

his old Chevy van and began<br />

“Hama Hama’s Oyster Bounty,”<br />

shellfish, the ecological impact<br />

(p. 26)<br />

driving up the steep dirt road,<br />

(p. 32)<br />

and the farm-to-table culture of<br />

he was absolutely right.<br />

Hama Hama is something unique<br />

“The Last Man On Protection<br />

to our wonderful state.<br />

Island,”<br />

“Hama Hama’s Oyster Bounty,”<br />

(p. 62)<br />

(p. 4 and 32)

EDITOR Kevin Max<br />



DESIGN<br />









Sheila G. Miller<br />

Michael Williamson<br />

Linda Donahue<br />

Brittney Hale<br />

Lindsay McWilliams<br />

Isaac Peterson<br />

Cindy Miskowiec<br />

Ashley Davis<br />

Kelly Hervey<br />

Jenny Kamprath<br />

Sandra King<br />

Jean Picha-Parker<br />

Deb Steiger<br />

Jackie Dodd<br />

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Alison Highberger, Julie Lee,<br />

Dieter Loibner, Tricia Louvar, Charyn Pfeuffer,<br />

Jean Picha-Parker, Corinne Whiting<br />

Jackie Dodd, Grant Gunderson, Kevin Light, Cameron Zegers<br />

Statehood Media<br />

70 SW Century Dr.<br />

Suite 100-218<br />

Bend, Oregon 97702<br />

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<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/subscribe<br />

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photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the exp<strong>res</strong>s written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs<br />

appearing in <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the exp<strong>res</strong>s written Consent of the publisher. <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s<br />

Magazine and Statehood Media are not <strong>res</strong>ponsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions exp<strong>res</strong>sed in these artiCles are not<br />

neCessarily those of <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.<br />

Statehood Media sets high standards to ensure fo<strong>res</strong>try is praCtiCed in an environmentally <strong>res</strong>ponsible, soCially benefiCial and eConomiCally viable way. This<br />

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(RCRA) standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or reCyCle it. We Can have a better world if we Choose it together.

FROM THE<br />

EDITOR<br />

WELCOME TO THE premier issue of <strong>1889</strong><br />

Washington’s Magazine.<br />

The year <strong>1889</strong> harkens back to when Washington<br />

earned its statehood. That year proved difficult for<br />

Washingtonians. A state-admissions convention met<br />

in Ellensburg in January to set in motion the plan<br />

to join these here United States. That June, tragedy<br />

struck.<br />

Smoke could be seen as far away as Tacoma when<br />

the Great Fire of Seattle set twenty-five blocks of<br />

downtown Seattle ablaze. Poor John Back, an assistant<br />

working in Victor Clairmont’s woodworking shop at<br />

what is now First and Madison avenues, scrambled<br />

to put out the fire as the glue he was heating boiled<br />

over and engulfed turpentine and wood chips across<br />

the floor.<br />

The combination of a dry spell and an all-volunteer firefighting<br />

force was powerless as the raging fire consumed<br />

the wooden buildings. Remarkably, Seattleites wasted no<br />

time mourning but immediately began to rebuild, this<br />

time with brick. A professional fire force was established<br />

and Seattle was on her way.<br />

On November 11, <strong>1889</strong>, Washingtonians had something<br />

to celebrate in Olympia and farther afield as Washington<br />

became the 42nd state of the United States of America.<br />

Our people at Statehood Media have been laying the<br />

groundwork for <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine for nearly a<br />

year now by working with local writers and photographers,<br />

visiting regions around the state and uncovering the<br />

people, places and issues that characterize the state. We<br />

selected Washington for her beauty, industry, innovation<br />

and pioneering spirit—a dominant trait for those of us<br />

who came to the Pacific Northwest.<br />

Our mission at <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine is to Live,<br />

Think and Explore our way across the state. We’re happy to<br />

report that Washington holds countless inspirational subjects<br />

for this and future issues. We encounter emerging markets,<br />

big ideas, entrepreneurs, farm-trepreneurs, things elegant<br />

and rustic, whiskey, wine, hops and her offspring—all of this<br />

set in a stunningly diverse ecosystem. In each issue, we bring<br />

stories of not just Seattle, not just the coast, but the hidden<br />

gems and remarkable people from the North Cascades to<br />

Yakima Valley, Bellingham to Walla Walla.<br />

Read for yourself the stories of fifth-generation Hama<br />

Hama oyster farmers and how to prepare the food for your<br />

own table; the passion behind Arzeda, a startup working<br />

to solve world hunger through new proteins; the best<br />

trails to Nordic ski; one marine naturalist’s trip to San Juan<br />

Island; our ideas for your long-overdue romantic getaway<br />

and one of the world’s largest collections of art from the<br />

American West.<br />

Let us know what you think. Share your stories and<br />

ideas with us online (<strong>1889</strong>mag.com), in social media and<br />

in print.<br />

We are honored and humbled to be a part of the<br />

Evergreen State. We hope you’ll share this journey with<br />

us. Cheers!



Learn more about Portage Glacier and<br />

59 others near Anchorage.<br />

VisitAnchorage.net | 907.257.2363

<strong>1889</strong> ONLINE<br />

More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content<br />

<strong>1889</strong>mag.com | #<strong>1889</strong>washington | @<strong>1889</strong>washington<br />


Have a photo that captu<strong>res</strong><br />

your Washington experience?<br />

Share it with us by filling out the<br />

Washington: In Focus form on<br />

our website. If chosen, you’ll be<br />

published here.<br />

<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/in-focus<br />

photo by Ben McBee<br />

The lush and damp Olympic National Park.<br />


Win a getaway for two at Northern<br />

Quest Casino & Resort in Spokane,<br />

Washington. One winner will receive<br />

one night‘s stay at the <strong>res</strong>ort, golf at<br />

the Kalispel Golf and Country Club,<br />

gift cards for lunch, dinner and drinks<br />

at on-site <strong>res</strong>taurants, along with<br />

spa and casino credits. Contest runs<br />

<strong>Feb</strong>ruary 1-31, 2017.<br />


Jam out to a curated playlist of<br />

songs by our featured musician,<br />

Peter Rivera. Scan the QR Code to<br />

listen on Spotify.<br />


<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/northernquest<br />

16 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017



Once you’re here, you’ll find plenty of reasons not to leave.<br />

There’s 24/7 Vegas-style gaming, fine dining at Masse<strong>low</strong>’s Steakhouse<br />

and top-shelf indulgences at Legends of Fire. We even offer access to one<br />

of Spokane’s most historic golf courses – Kalispel Golf and Country Club.<br />

Not to mention our world-class day spa and luxury rooms, so you can <strong>res</strong>t<br />

up and do it all over again tomorrow.<br />



Photo courtesy of Lisa Staton<br />

SAY WA? 20<br />

FOOD + DRINK 26<br />

HOME + DESIGN 32<br />

MIND + BODY 44<br />


(pg. 38)<br />

A modern home in Clyde Hill gets a Scandinavian makeover.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19

say wa?<br />

Tidbits & To-dos<br />

Bombsheller Leggings<br />

Leggings are hitting their peak this decade<br />

as a more comfortable step-in for traditional<br />

pants. Bombsheller in Seattle takes leggings<br />

to the next level with splashy designs. Think<br />

maps, florals, optical illusions and comic<br />

book characters—tightly fitted to your legs.<br />

shop.bombsheller.com<br />

A Revolution You Can Dance To!<br />

Learn how indie music in the Pacific Northwest<br />

has made a national and global impact at the<br />

Washington State History Museum’s new<br />

exhibit, “A Revolution You Can Dance To!<br />

Indie Music in the NW.” The exhibit highlights<br />

local bands such as Pearl Jam, Nirvana and<br />

Bikini Kill, which created their own Northwest<br />

subculture through their music and efforts<br />

for social change.<br />

washingtonhistory.org<br />

WOW Your Loved One<br />

Chocolate-covered maraschino cherries are old<br />

news. This Valentine’s Day, bring something more<br />

creative to your date with WOW Chocolates<br />

from Bellevue. These sassy, colorful bonbons<br />

come in shapes of hearts and lips in a variety of<br />

flavors, hand-painted for your sweetie (or you).<br />

wowchocolates.com<br />

20 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

say wa?<br />

Run in Your Undies<br />

Put on your red, heart-covered tighty-whities<br />

and join thousands of other scantily clad friends<br />

for Cupid’s Undie Run on <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 11. This 1-mile<br />

fun run in downtown Seattle is more about the<br />

open bar and costumes than the running, and all<br />

proceeds from the event benefit the Children’s<br />

Tumor Foundation.<br />

cupidsundierun.org<br />

Be At Home Wherever You Are<br />

Tacoma couple Tim and April Norris create<br />

their designs around the idea that landforms<br />

such as lakes and mountains have the power<br />

of familiarity, yet continuously call us to an<br />

unknown adventure. Their artful items for<br />

the home include topographical maps and<br />

polygonal prints of Mount Rainier, Mount<br />

Baker and Mount Adams.<br />

timplusapril.com<br />

Honoring Forefathers at<br />

National Parks<br />

Honor U.S. p<strong>res</strong>idents who set aside land for<br />

our national parks by exploring them—for free!<br />

On P<strong>res</strong>idents Day, <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 20, Mount Rainier<br />

National Park and Olympic National Park will be<br />

fee-free, with no cost for entrance or parking.<br />

nps.gov<br />

mark your<br />


FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21

say wa?<br />

Jack Mongan<br />

Musician<br />

Rivera (still) Rocks<br />

Don’t hold your applause<br />

written by Blythe Thimsen<br />

APPLAUSE. This is what Peter Rivera enjoys most about<br />

performing. After thirty years of rocking out as the<br />

original drummer and lead vocalist for 1970s band Rare<br />

Earth and with hits such as “Get Ready” and “I Just Want<br />

to Celebrate,” all it takes is a little noise. “We’d all love to<br />

be cheered, to have applause,” he said.<br />

Applause—or even performing—is not guaranteed in<br />

today’s saturated music industry. “There’s less meat on<br />

the carcass, and more people trying to feed on it,” said<br />

Rivera, f<strong>res</strong>h from gigs in Tennessee, Georgia, Florida<br />

and Massachusetts.<br />

What’s his secret? “I’m not all ego-ed up. I’m just a<br />

really good drummer and singer, and I like doing it,” he<br />

said. “It’s all I ever wanted to do, even now. When I go<br />

out on stage, it’s my ass, and I gotta be on.”<br />

Peter Rivera plays the drums.<br />

22 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

ORDER<br />


GUIDE!<br />

OPEN UP to Snohomish County. Just 30 minutes north<br />

of Seattle, there’s a treasure trove of adventure waiting for you to discover.

say wa?<br />

Bibliophile<br />

Writing for Kids<br />

(and Their Gatekeepers)<br />

Award-winning children’s author Deborah Underwood<br />

says kids books must have it all—in 500 words or less<br />

interviewed by Sheila G. Miller<br />

DEBORAH UNDERWOOD’S CHARACTERS are no strangers to trouble.<br />

But then, some of them are cats and mice. Others are fairy-tale villains.<br />

Underwood draws inspiration from everywhere, and trouble finds<br />

her. Born and raised in Walla Walla, her recent book Here Comes The<br />

Tooth Fairy Cat won a Washington State Book Award for the earlyreaders<br />

category. She has ten picture books coming out in the next<br />

several years, including Here Comes Teacher Cat next summer, in which<br />

Cat needs to be a substitute teacher for a day; Super Saurus Saves<br />

Kindergarten, , illustrated by Ned Young, out next year; and a few pieces<br />

in a middle-grade humor anthology, Funny Girl, out next May.<br />

Deborah Underwood’s upcoming book featu<strong>res</strong> a<br />

substitute teacher cat.<br />

Photo courtesy of Penguin Young Readers and illustrations © Claudia Rueda<br />

You started out writing screenplays—<br />

what changed?<br />

After I graduated from college, I tried all<br />

kinds of writing. I sold a few magazine<br />

articles and some greeting cards. I wrote<br />

puzzles for Dell Puzzle Magazines for<br />

many years. I even wrote a terrible romance<br />

novel—it didn’t sell, for good reason!<br />

Then in 1999, my sister in Scotland had<br />

a baby. I thought writing picture books<br />

would be a way to connect with my niece<br />

across all the miles that separated us.<br />

Mainly I write for kids because<br />

I’ve always loved children’s books. In<br />

retrospect, it seems silly that it took so<br />

long for me to figure out I should write<br />

for kids. I suspect most grown-ups don’t<br />

listen to Paddington Bear audiobooks —<br />

that should have tipped me off!<br />

A lot of people assume that writing for<br />

kids is easier than writing an adult novel.<br />

What do you think?<br />

People think picture books are easy to<br />

write because they’re short. But a picture<br />

book writer needs to create compelling<br />

characters, construct a solid plot with<br />

conflict, escalation, and <strong>res</strong>olution,<br />

and evoke an emotional <strong>res</strong>ponse in<br />

the reader—and she has to do it in 500<br />

words. One of my books is only eighty<br />

words long. It’s definitely not easy!<br />

An inte<strong>res</strong>ting thing about picture<br />

books is that you’re writing for kids,<br />

but a 5-year-old doesn’t march into<br />

a bookstore alone to buy a book. It’s<br />

grown-ups who do the purchasing. So<br />

a book must—most importantly—bring<br />

joy to a young person, but it also needs to<br />

appeal to gatekeepers (parents, teachers,<br />

and librarians), because that’s how it will<br />

get into a child’s hands.<br />

How do you work with illustrators?<br />

Authors and illustrators usually don’t work<br />

together. The writer sells a manuscript to<br />

a publisher, and the publisher chooses the<br />

artist. The author and illustrator typically<br />

don’t communicate directly while the book is<br />

in process, because the illustrator needs the<br />

freedom to make the story his or her own.<br />

But the Cat books rely heavily on<br />

illustrations to tell the story. When I write the<br />

books, I do my own sketches to show Cat’s<br />

signs and exp<strong>res</strong>sions. As a rule, an author<br />

would never send sketches to an editor<br />

unless she was an author/illustrator—that’s a<br />

substantial breach of publishing etiquette.<br />

My agent decided my drawings were the<br />

best way to get the idea of the book across.<br />

We were also fortunate that the wonderful<br />

illustrator, Claudia Rueda, was open to<br />

working this way.<br />

How do you come up with your stories<br />

and flesh them out?<br />

Every story is different. The Cat books<br />

started because I couldn’t think of an idea.<br />

My cat, Bella, was sitting on my bed in front<br />

of me, so I sketched a cat while I waited for<br />

inspiration. The cat looked grumpy, so I<br />

asked why. The cat answered by holding up<br />

a sign, and the first Cat book was born.<br />

I got the idea for The Quiet Book while<br />

waiting for a classical guitar concert to<br />

start. My 2018 book Monster and Mouse<br />

was inspired by a sketch an artist friend<br />

posted on Facebook. Interstellar Cinderella<br />

began with the title.<br />

For each book, my general process is<br />

to do several drafts on my own, then take<br />

the manuscript to my critique groups for<br />

more input before I revise it again (and<br />

again) and send it to my agent. If the book<br />

sells, there are more revisions once an<br />

editor is involved.<br />

24 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

food + drink<br />

Cocktail Card<br />

recipe by Price Gledhill from SOUTH in<br />

Leavenworth and Wenatchee<br />

Beervana<br />

Crowlers are game changers<br />

written and photographed by Jackie Dodd<br />

The SOUTH Stinger<br />

1¼ ounces 100 percent agave Exotico<br />

Blanco tequila<br />

3 ounces mix*<br />

2 to 3 rings of jalapeño<br />

Pinch of cilantro<br />

Muddle cilantro and jalapeño in a mixing<br />

glass. Add ice and remaining ingredients.<br />

Shake and pour into a bucket.<br />

*Mix:<br />

1 part lemon juice<br />

1 part lime juice<br />

¾ parts water<br />

2 parts simple syrup<br />

A bartender fills a crowler with Russell Street IPA.<br />

IN THE HEAT OF THE MOMENT, I pretended I knew what she was<br />

talking about. I work in the beer industry, I should know these things.<br />

It was, after all, the first time I’d ever heard the term “crowler.” As a<br />

student of beer, I’m used to growlers as the go-to container for to-go<br />

beer. Possibly a Hydro Flask here and there, and a pony keg for those<br />

with beer-dispensing systems in their places of <strong>res</strong>idence, but the word<br />

“crowler” had no place to <strong>res</strong>t in my brain. Did she mean growler? “It’s<br />

a can-growler,” she explained. “We fill a 32-ounce aluminum can with<br />

whatever you want, and then we machine-seal the lid with this antiquelooking<br />

p<strong>res</strong>s thing.” Why don’t I know about these? She filled one up<br />

for me, overf<strong>low</strong>ing with the last of the saison keg about to b<strong>low</strong> in<br />

favor of the summer ale she was preparing to tap. This was nearly a<br />

year ago. In the months since, I’ve been the one pronouncing growler<br />

with a “c” and navigating puzzled sta<strong>res</strong> from beer people. “It’s a cangrowler.”<br />

I tell them, “They fill a 32-ounce can with whatever you want,<br />

and then they machine-seal the lid on with an antique-looking p<strong>res</strong>s<br />

thing.” I also tell them about how much more sense the crowler makes<br />

than the traditional/clunky/heavy/fragile growler. “It’s so much easier to<br />

transport! You can even ship them! They last weeks, as opposed to a<br />

growler that only gives you a few days!” It makes up for the ignorance<br />

I felt that first day, learning about this brilliant new beer-packaging<br />

invention from the woman behind the bar at a taproom in Bellevue.<br />

26 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />

MORE ONLINE Find a crowler filling station near you at <strong>1889</strong>mag.com/crowler

food + drink<br />


Ben Lindbloom<br />

STEAK<br />

Craving an old-school steak with classic tuxedoed service?<br />

Metropolitan Grill delivers. A venerable Seattle institution<br />

with Frank Sinatra-era décor, paradisiacal steaks and a sixtyfoot<br />

bar, Metropolitan Grill caters to a well-heeled crowd<br />

with an appetite for refined dining. The s<strong>low</strong>-roasted prime<br />

rib is melt-in-your-mouth tender and the American Wagyu<br />

for two carved tableside, with a roasted scampi add-on,<br />

is recommended. Also recommended: leaving diets and<br />

budgets behind.<br />

820 SECOND AVE.<br />


themetropolitangrill.com<br />


In the heart of one of the best wine regions in the<br />

country, if not the world, are some fabulous, locally<br />

purveying, artisan-inspired <strong>res</strong>taurants. Whitehouse-<br />

Crawford Restaurant is a unique gem in Walla Walla<br />

that transports guests to fine dining, wine country<br />

style. The six-course tasting menu offers a sampling of<br />

many of the housemade specialties, or if looking for a<br />

more casual meal, the Whitehouse-Crawford burger is<br />

heavenly. Reservations are suggested.<br />

55 WEST CHERRY ST.<br />


whitehousecrawford.com<br />

Gastronomy<br />

Casco Antiguo<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />

KILLER TACOS? Hot pepper margaritas? Central locale? Check, check<br />

and check. Casco Antiguo tops the Seattle foodie scene with scratchmade<br />

everything, posh ambience and margaritas on tap. Sit bar-side and<br />

watch tortillas being made while sipping a smoked-salt rimmed mezcal<br />

margarita. Northwest-infused favorites include carne asada tacos with<br />

grilled bavette steak, duck carnitas taquitos and pollo y mole enchiladas.<br />

Located a quick jog from Safeco Field and CenturyLink Field in Pioneer<br />

Square, this hot spot is el mejor.<br />

115 OCCIDENTAL AVE. S.<br />


cascoantiguoseattle.com<br />

A beer-braised whole duck leg, cooked carnitas-style with<br />

housemade mole and sesame seeds with rice and beans.<br />


There are many go-to dishes at Quality Athletics, but<br />

the fried chicken sando soars to the top. With smoked<br />

red aioli and a kiss of honey, this is game day—and<br />

everyday—fried chicken. For a side, skip the salad and go<br />

crazy with the hand-cut fries—they’re worth the extra<br />

calories. This is a sophisticated sports bar in the nerve<br />

center of Pioneer Square, where you can park, drink,<br />

cheer and stay for hours. With a wood-fired grill and a<br />

rooftop garden, it’s game on for gastronomes.<br />

121 SOUTH KIND ST.<br />


qualityathletics.com<br />


Take a walk back in time at Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe,<br />

named for Disney short film Ferdinand the Bull but smack<br />

in the epicenter of Cougar country. Washington State<br />

University’s gourmet ice cream shop in Pullman featu<strong>res</strong><br />

the best of old-fashioned dairy treats, with soda-fountain<br />

goodies, delectable ice cream, coffee and some of the best<br />

cheese in the country: the award-winning Cougar Gold.<br />



creamery.wsu.edu<br />

28 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

food + drink<br />


BBQ<br />


Housed in a 1915 historic bank building in Shelton<br />

is some great Q and brew. Smoking Mo’s is a<br />

community backbone with a neighborly vibe.<br />

Rotating beer taps quench thirst after licking the<br />

signature housemade barbeque sauce off the rib<br />

bones. With a special Sunday brunch menu and<br />

an imp<strong>res</strong>sive Bloody Mary bar, Smoking Mo’s is a<br />

fitting place to catch Sunday’s NFL playoff games<br />

as teams march toward the granddaddy of them all.<br />

203 W RAILROAD AVE.<br />


smokingmos.com<br />


Pecos in Seattle offers barbeque for a steal of a deal.<br />

Check out the happy hour with $2 slider specials and<br />

$4 beers, or get a $6 mini-me sandwich or two. If you<br />

are a brisket connoisseur or a fan of s<strong>low</strong>-smoked<br />

pork butt, this is your place. While many barbeque<br />

joints offer similar sides, breakouts at Pecos include<br />

cowboy caviar with black-eyed peas, avocado and<br />

corn and pit beans.<br />

2260 FIRST AVE. S.<br />


pecospit.com<br />


If you yearn for an innovative cocktail to<br />

pair with a favorite barbeque, Cask & Trotter<br />

sounds the horn. This spot has a ritzy spin,<br />

offering a chic bar, grilled artichokes for an<br />

appetizer and some of the most delicious<br />

smoked chicken found anywhere. The houseground<br />

top sirloin burgers are a nice option<br />

for those looking beyond traditional barbeque<br />

dishes. The bacon gorgonzola burger with<br />

grilled onion is a show-stopper.<br />

18411 HWY 99<br />


caskandtrotter.com<br />


Country Boy’s BBQ in Cashmere is the pinnacle<br />

of Southern rustic barbeque fare. While the<br />

pulled pork is a specialty, head straight to a<br />

combo plate and try a little bit of everything<br />

so you don’t have to choose one dish. Sublime,<br />

simple, scrumptious barbeque.<br />

400 APLETS WAY<br />


countryboysbbq.com<br />

Erin Berzel<br />

Dining<br />

Smokehouse Provisions<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />

B. J. SMITH IS AMASSING a barbeque<br />

empire. With the addition of Smokehouse<br />

Provisions in Vancouver, his Smokehouse<br />

<strong>res</strong>taurants are now a three-fingered brand,<br />

with the perfect smoke ring on each finger.<br />

His pleasure-producing brisket, baby<br />

backs, hot-links and sides were birthed<br />

at his original location in NW Portland,<br />

Smokehouse 21, which Smith coins a<br />

“dirty little BBQ joint hole in the wall.”<br />

The expansion to SE Portland meant both<br />

Smith and the <strong>res</strong>taurant were maturing;<br />

Smokehouse Tavern introduced craft<br />

cocktails, an expanding menu of smoked<br />

meats, and a more chef-driven, upscale<br />

dining experience. “Smokehouse Tavern<br />

Smokehouse Provisions’ deviled egg hot links.<br />

is Smokehouse 21’s classy older brother,”<br />

Smith said. His move into Vancouver<br />

may pave a path for others to fol<strong>low</strong>, as<br />

Portland’s <strong>res</strong>taurant scene continues its<br />

saturated squeeze, and the need for more<br />

dining hotspots in Vancouver beckons<br />

from across the river. What would he call<br />

Smokehouse Provisions, if Smokehouse<br />

21 is the baby and Smokehouse Tavern is<br />

the older brother? “I’d call Smokehouse<br />

Provisions the father: more mature, a big,<br />

beautiful space and full of character.”<br />

8070 E. MILL PLAIN BLVD.<br />


smokehouseprovisions.com<br />

30 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />

MORE ONLINE For more Washington eats, visit <strong>1889</strong>mag.com/dining

Mason Family<br />

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breathtaking<br />

river view<br />

gluten-free<br />

friendly<br />

www.ketchum-enoteca.com<br />

Ketchum grill<br />

www.ketchumgrill.com<br />

town square tavern<br />

www.ketchumtavern.com<br />

Three great places<br />

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open every day • lunch.dinner.sunday brunch • 503.325.6777<br />

bridgewaterbistro.com • 20 basin street, astoria or • on the river<br />

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home + design<br />

Farm to Table<br />

Hama Hama’s Oyster Bounty<br />

A cracking, slurping, delicious good time<br />

written by Corinne Whiting<br />

photography by Cameron Zegers<br />

IF YOU DON’T FULLY APPRECIATE oysters before landing in Washington, chances are<br />

you’ll truly understand the shuck-happy clamor before you sail away.<br />

In these water-logged parts, fifth-generation family-run shellfish farm Hama<br />

Hama has built a reputation anchored in hard work and clean water. Its mission is<br />

simple—“Utilize <strong>low</strong>-impact farming methods to grow world-class oysters, have<br />

fun and leave something good for the next guy.”<br />

Located on the Olympic Peninsula, Hama Hama beds sit at the mouth of one of<br />

Washington’s shortest, coldest and least developed rivers. This purity produces<br />

oysters with a clean, crisp flavor. These oysters are not fed, fertilized or doctored.<br />

As they grow, the bivalves actively clean their environment. Two oyster varieties<br />

grow on Hama Hama's home farm—classic, beach-grown Hama Hamas and<br />

tumble-farmed Blue Pools.<br />

On the beach, staff harvest at <strong>low</strong> tide and bring product to shore at high<br />

tide. “One awesome thing about being in this industry is that your schedule isn’t<br />

determined by the board of directors. It’s determined by planetary forces,” Hama<br />

Hama’s Lissa James Monberg said. Sometimes you “have to wait for the moon to<br />

pull the ocean off your beach.”<br />

Monberg said this marine lifestyle helps tap into a better way of interacting<br />

with the world. “Even though it puts you right in the heart of big issues<br />

like pollution, runoff issues … it seems like a really positive place to work,”<br />

she said.<br />

32 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

home + design<br />

"Utilize <strong>low</strong>-impact farming<br />

methods to grow world-class<br />

oysters, have fun and leave<br />

something good for the next guy."<br />

— Hama Hama mission<br />

Mitch McKasson holds nets filled with f<strong>res</strong>h oysters.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33

"Selling to people<br />

who share our<br />

stoke for bivalves<br />

fuels our fire ..."<br />

— Lissa James Monberg<br />


Hama Hama officially launched its “Direct to Chef Program”<br />

in 2012 to “put the best oysters and clams into the most<br />

skilled hands.” Perks such as overnight delivery and immediate<br />

feedback benefit everyone involved. “Selling to people who<br />

share our stoke for bivalves fuels our fire and keeps us smiling<br />

when we’re picking and packing late into the wee hours of a<br />

mid-winter <strong>low</strong> tide,” Monberg said.<br />

James Beard Award-winning chef Renee Erickson said she<br />

was lucky to meet Hama Hama six years ago before opening<br />

her acclaimed <strong>res</strong>taurant, Walrus. “We take our staff many<br />

times a year to see the farm, visit, learn and generally eat and<br />

have a fantastic time,” she said.<br />


Although Hood Canal’s pictu<strong>res</strong>que Alderbrook Resort &<br />

Spa harvests oysters on its own beach, the <strong>res</strong>ort will often<br />

source from their Hama Hama neighbors, too. Alderbrook’s<br />

dishes incorporate seasonal ingredients foraged from the 88-<br />

acre property, and recent dishes included oyster shooters with<br />

Heritage ghost chili vodka and cucumber-lemon-basil relish,<br />

plus oyster stew with shallots, brown butter, sherry cream and<br />

paprika oil.<br />

In Olympia, Our Table exclusively serves Hama Hama<br />

shellfish, one of its favorite preparations being baked oysters.<br />

The dish uses extra-small shell oysters baked with housemade<br />

bacon jam, smoked pepper coulis and a spicy arugula pesto or<br />

mustard greens and house seasonal fruit vinegar.<br />

When the weather cools, Erickson brings one of her favorite<br />

creations to Seattle’s Bar Melusine—the oyster pan roast. She<br />

serves the oysters barely cooked, with a rich sauce of bacon,<br />

butter, five spices, cognac and a touch of cream.<br />

Seattleites can also find Hama Hama at neighborhood farmers<br />

markets—Saturdays in the University District and Sundays in<br />

Ballard. Of course, there’s no better place to savor farm-f<strong>res</strong>h<br />

products than at Hama Hama’s Lilliwaup store and oyster saloon—<br />

the friendly site where all the magic happens.<br />

FROM TOP Mitch McKasson shucks an oyster. Bountiful shellfish at Hama Hama.<br />

34 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

home + design<br />

Washington Recipes<br />

Cooking with<br />

Oysters<br />

Courtesy of Alderbrook Resort & Spa<br />

Oyster Stew<br />

UNION/ Alderbrook Resort & Spa<br />

Josh Delgado<br />

2 dozen medium-sized Hood<br />

Canal Pacific oysters, shucked<br />

Whole butter (enough to sauté<br />

oysters)<br />

1 tablespoon shallots<br />

1 tablespoon chives<br />

1 tablespoon parsley<br />

White pepper to taste<br />

Salt to taste<br />

1 quart heavy cream<br />

8 ounces sherry wine<br />

Crispy shallot<br />

Browned butter<br />

Paprika oil<br />

Sauté one dozen shucked medium-sized<br />

Hood Canal Pacific oysters in whole butter<br />

with shallots, chives and parsley. Season<br />

with white pepper and salt to taste (the<br />

oyster will sometimes provide all the<br />

salinity you need). Separately, reduce<br />

heavy cream combined with sherry wine<br />

by half and add your oysters, making sure<br />

to use a spatula to get every bit out of the<br />

sauté pan. Place the stew in a small bowl<br />

and garnish with crispy shallot, browned<br />

butter and paprika oil.<br />

Hood Canal Oysters on the Half<br />

Shell with Mignonette<br />

UNION/ Alderbrook Resort & Spa<br />

Josh Delgado<br />

2 ounces soy sauce<br />

2 ounces mirin<br />

2 ounces black vinegar (you can<br />

find at all Asian grocery sto<strong>res</strong>)<br />

1 ounce rice vinegar<br />

1 shallot, finely minced<br />

2 tablespoons thinly shaved scallions<br />

1 tablespoon minced pickled ginger<br />

1 teaspoon chili paste (Sambal or alike)<br />

2 turns of a pepper mill<br />

Combine all ingredients and let sit for at<br />

least 30 minutes. Serve with f<strong>res</strong>h Hood<br />

Canal oysters on the half shell.<br />

Oyster Roll<br />

SEATTLE / Westward<br />

Will Gordon<br />

4 oyster or crab roll buns, sub hoagie rolls<br />

if unavailable<br />

16 large oysters (Pacifics are good) soaked<br />

in buttermilk<br />

2 dill pickled cucumbers, sliced horizontally<br />

and soaked in buttermilk<br />

Red oak or butter lettuce for garnish<br />

Remoulade (recipe fol<strong>low</strong>s)<br />

Dredge for frying (recipe fol<strong>low</strong>s)<br />

Pickled red onions (recipe fol<strong>low</strong>s)<br />


1 cup semolina flour<br />

1 cup flour<br />

2 tablespoons cornstarch<br />

Mix ingredients together, <strong>res</strong>erve for later.<br />


1 cup mayonnaise or homemade aioli<br />

2 tablespoons finely chopped capers<br />

½ shallot, minced<br />

1 tablespoon chopped parsley<br />

Scant pinch chopped tarragon<br />

1 teaspoon minced chive<br />

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper<br />

Juice and zest of half a lemon<br />

2 tablespoons chopped dill or sour pickle<br />

¼ cup fine-diced celery<br />

¼ teaspoon f<strong>res</strong>h grated horseradish, or<br />

prepared to taste<br />

Scant pinch sweet paprika<br />

Mix ingredients together and let sit a couple<br />

hours or overnight to al<strong>low</strong> flavors to combine.<br />

Oysters on the half shell at Alderbrook Resort & Spa.<br />


2 large red onions<br />

2 cups champagne vinegar<br />

1 cup water<br />

2 tablespoons salt<br />

1 tablespoon black peppercorns<br />

1 lemon, sliced<br />

2 sprigs thyme<br />

2 tablespoons sugar<br />

Lightly salt red onions and let sit for an hour<br />

or so. Rinse, dry and <strong>res</strong>erve. Make a sachet<br />

of thyme lemon and peppercorn. Bring water,<br />

vinegar, salt and sugar to a boil with the<br />

sachet. Pour hot over onions. Let cool.<br />


Toast your rolls in a cast-iron pan or griddle<br />

with a little butter and olive oil until golden<br />

brown, then set aside. Drain the oysters and<br />

pickles from buttermilk. Coat in dredge, then<br />

remove, shaking off excess. Heat a deep fryer<br />

or pot of oil (canola, rice bran, etc.) to 350<br />

degrees and gently drop your oysters and<br />

pickled cucumbers in, al<strong>low</strong>ing them to fry<br />

until golden brown and beautiful. Place on a<br />

paper towel to drain and lightly salt.<br />

While frying the oysters and pickles, spread a<br />

bit of remoulade on the rolls and add a couple<br />

lettuce leaves. Evenly distribute your oysters<br />

and fried pickles. Garnish with some pickled<br />

red onion.<br />

Serve with your favorite potato chips.<br />

36 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017



OF THE<br />






971.267.2130<br />

the-vintages.com<br />





home + design<br />

Reimagining History<br />

Two modern Northwest-style houses get<br />

reinvented for contemporary family life<br />

written by Melissa Dalton<br />

Mark Woods<br />

BY CHANNELING THE DESIGN PHILOSOPHY of two influential Midcentury<br />

Seattle architects, these designers transform two dated houses into<br />

welcoming family hubs that will stand the test of time.<br />

38 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

LEFT The existing dead-end kitchen was transformed from a dark corner of the house into a domestic wing that<br />

combines the functions of a kitchen, mudroom, utility room, powder room and small home office. ABOVE The<br />

new open kitchen and dining room are naturally illuminated by the large window sequence, also creating a visual<br />

connection with the outdoors and the tall fir trees beyond.<br />


It’s a well-known fact that architect Gene Zema’s work was not fussy.<br />

Between 1953 and 1976, Zema designed forty-six Seattle-area<br />

<strong>res</strong>idences, which largely embodied the regional Northwest style<br />

popular during his time. “I like to do buildings with materials<br />

that reflect the weather, the atmosphere, the landscaping,” Zema<br />

said in a 2007 interview with The Seattle Times. “I like it simple.”<br />

Such was the approach that architect Thomas Schaer, principal<br />

of Shed Architecture & Design, adopted for a recent remodel of<br />

one of Zema’s last homes. “He did not fuss around with fancy<br />

materials,” Schaer said. “There was a mantra that developed early<br />

in the design process: What would Gene do?”<br />

Unfortunately, when Schaer first stepped through the door<br />

of this 1971 house on Bainbridge Island, it was in rough shape<br />

thanks to a series of insensitive remodels. Zema originally<br />

designed the house with a centralized courtyard open to the<br />

sky. A prior owner, however, converted that courtyard into a<br />

sunken living room, enclosed it with a leaky glass roof and<br />

encircled the whole space with a railing that forbade entry.<br />

Still, Schaer only had to look up to see what should have been.<br />

“Obviously the post-and-beam framing and the exposed wood<br />

ceiling were awesome,” he said. “It felt like they needed to be<br />

liberated.” In the ensuing renovation, he and his team sought<br />

to <strong>res</strong>pect Zema’s aesthetic while making the home functional<br />

for its new owners, a young family.<br />

The team started by remedying the ill-used living room. First,<br />

they raised the floor height, which eliminated the need for a<br />

railing. Then they extended the existing roofline to incorporate<br />

high cle<strong>res</strong>tory windows, and replaced the leaky glass with<br />

paneling that matched the original. With the removal of a hallway,<br />

they created space for a fireplace and streamlined built-ins, to<br />

provide a focal point across from the front door.<br />

In the kitchen, long consigned to a dead-end corner of the house,<br />

the goal was to make it more social. The architects enlarged the<br />

room’s footprint and then integrated a highly functional, floating<br />

“utility core,” which includes a mudroom, powder bath, office space<br />

and laundry units within steps of one another. Now, the main living<br />

areas f<strong>low</strong> together for easy family living.<br />

Everywhere, old details merge with new updates, to ultimately<br />

reinvigorate Zema’s design. “His material palette was pretty<br />

much fir, cedar, sheet rock and plastic laminate and, in some<br />

cases, masonry and concrete,” Schaer said. In keeping with that,<br />

the kitchen hosts sleek plastic laminate cabinets adorned with<br />

wire brass pulls. The <strong>res</strong>ealed cedar ceiling contrasts nicely with<br />

stained Douglas fir trim. In the living room, the new brick hearth<br />

fuses with the concrete floor in an interlocking pattern. In two<br />

spots, Schaer detailed spare wood-slatted screens, in a nod to<br />

Zema’s longstanding love of Japanese design. “We probably went<br />

a little beyond what (Zema) would do in a few cases,” Schaer said.<br />

“But for the most part we really tried to keep it simple.”<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39

home + design<br />

"We were not looking to copy exact<br />

details of (Ralph) Anderson's architecture<br />

but rather capture the spirit of long, <strong>low</strong><br />

rooflines and connection to nature."<br />

— Lisa Staton<br />

Clyde Hill: The Scandinavian Treatment<br />

On the exterior of Michele Conrad’s<br />

Mid-century home in the Clyde Hill<br />

neighborhood, black-trimmed windows and<br />

charcoal-painted siding seem to project an<br />

owner who revels in dark and moody color.<br />

Inside, however, the opposite prevails. Blonde<br />

wood floors, crisp white walls, and generous<br />

windows embrace light and nature. Conrad,<br />

a marketing consultant at Microsoft who<br />

lives with her husband and three daughters,<br />

bought the house in 2015. “I wanted to create<br />

a home that only had the necessities,” she<br />

said, citing a desire to get rid of anything<br />

the family didn’t use daily. Whether it was<br />

a dusty holdout from her wedding registry<br />

or a mismatched dish, every piece of clutter<br />

disappeared in the move. “That way we could<br />

focus on the family and friends that come<br />

into the house.”<br />

The new home came with a pedigree. Famed<br />

Seattle architect Ralph Anderson, who was<br />

instrumental in the rehabilitation of the Pioneer<br />

Square neighborhood, originally designed it in<br />

1966. But its prefabricated fixtu<strong>res</strong> and finishes<br />

had not aged well, and by the time Conrad<br />

bought it, the builder had already gutted it.<br />

This suited Conrad’s intentions. “It was a blank<br />

slate,” she said. She envisioned a “Scandi-meets-<br />

Mid-century” interior, so she enlisted the aid<br />

of interior designer Lisa Staton. Staton honed<br />

architectural details, organized space plans,<br />

and suggested finishes, fixtu<strong>res</strong>, furniture, and<br />

rugs. “It was pretty soup to nuts,” Staton said.<br />

The first order of business was to honor<br />

the house’s history. “We were not looking to<br />

copy exact details of Anderson’s architecture<br />

but rather capture the spirit of long, <strong>low</strong><br />

rooflines and connection to nature,” Staton<br />

said. To that end, the deep eaves were kept<br />

intact while the interior benefitted from two<br />

important moves. First, Staton and Conrad<br />

encouraged the builder to b<strong>low</strong> out the walls<br />

and keep the main floor open. Next, Staton<br />

changed the window patterns, dropping all of<br />

the sill heights to fifteen inches off the floor.<br />

“That really makes a difference in making the<br />

house feel open and connected to nature,”<br />

Staton said.<br />

Furthermore, the women tweaked the<br />

central staircase in order to maintain<br />

sightlines. Rather than enclosing it with<br />

cabinetry, they suggested a floating design<br />

the builder successfully executed with<br />

painted wood, glass panels and steel railings.<br />

Across from it, the kitchen holds a place of<br />

honor at the floorplan’s center, as Conrad<br />

is an avid cook. Yet the hardworking space<br />

recedes, due to cabinetry with a minimal<br />

profile, streamlined appliances, and an<br />

expansive window over the cooktop. “The<br />

way we designed the kitchen, it makes a huge<br />

difference that there are no upper cabinets,”<br />

Staton said. “That changes the way you<br />

experience the room.”<br />

Such a thoughtful process ensured the<br />

<strong>res</strong>ults stay true to Conrad’s original vision.<br />

Now, she happily cooks dinner surrounded by<br />

her family, as her daughters perch at the island<br />

doing homework or practice cartwheels in<br />

the entry. “You can focus on what counts,”<br />

Conrad said of her uncluttered digs. “It’s<br />

really just a backdrop for people.”<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The home's kitchen featu<strong>res</strong> Carrara marble countertops and exposed<br />

beams. A Ralph Anderson-designed light fixture, original to the house, was <strong>res</strong>tored and hung in<br />

the master bedroom. A child's bedroom designed around a cantilevered bunk bed.<br />

Photography courtesy of Lisa Staton<br />

40 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

home + design<br />

Mid-century Marvels<br />

These products add architectural detail with a Mid-century flair<br />


For an abundance of period-appropriate<br />

house items—everything from switch plates<br />

to cabinet hardware to heat registers—<br />

Rejuvenation is a one-stop shop. The Midcentury<br />

Star Doorbell Button bestows a little<br />

personality to an overlooked spot.<br />

rejuvenation.com<br />


If you prefer to bring home something with<br />

a little patina, visit Earthwise Architectural<br />

Salvage, located in Seattle and Tacoma. Its<br />

antique hardware, including doorknobs and<br />

backplates, offers historical authenticity.<br />

ewsalvage.com<br />


The sleek, wall-mounted modern mailbox<br />

delivers Atomic style to a bland entry. It’s<br />

made from 16-gauge stainless steel and<br />

comes powder-coated in fun Mid-century<br />

colors, such as coral peach and Caribbean teal.<br />

modern-mailbox.com<br />


For a period-perfect sconce or chandelier, try<br />

Cedar & Moss, a Portland-based maker of<br />

modern and Mid-century light fixtu<strong>res</strong>. The<br />

Alto Compass, composed of solid brass and<br />

hand-b<strong>low</strong>n glass shades, is a glamorous<br />

adornment in a foyer or dining room.<br />

cedarandmoss.com<br />


Vintage-inspired house numbers are an<br />

easy way to evoke another era. We like<br />

the Mid-century Madness Planter from<br />

Urban Mettle. It combines a retro font with<br />

succulents for a mod front door vignette.<br />

urbanmettle.com<br />

42 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

of Northwest Coast Art<br />

A lot of things have changed out here<br />

since the lawless days<br />

of the wild, wild west.<br />

Guess we didnt get the memo.<br />

VisitEasternOregon.com<br />

photo by Michael Iwasaki<br />

MAY 25TH TO THE 28TH 2017<br />

150<br />

Celebrating<br />

CANADA<br />



www.artvancouver.net<br />


mind + body<br />

Football Fitness<br />

Spokane Empire’s standout rookie<br />

comes back from injury<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

WHEN YOU THINK OF football<br />

in Washington, you likely picture the<br />

Seattle Seahawks, or the recent success<br />

of the Washington State Cougars and<br />

University of Washington Huskies.<br />

But Trevor Kennedy and the Indoor<br />

Football League’s Spokane Empire are<br />

here to tell you that while it might look<br />

a little different, the skill and fitness<br />

levels are very much the same.<br />

The Spokane Empire joined the<br />

Indoor Football League in 2016 after<br />

defecting from the Arena Football<br />

League (the team was known as the<br />

Spokane Shock), and finished atop its<br />

conference with a 12-4 record. The<br />

Empire lost to the Sioux Falls Storm in<br />

the league’s version of the Super Bowl<br />

last July. Games run from <strong>Feb</strong>ruary<br />

through July, and are played on a 50-<br />

yard field surrounded by walls with<br />

eight players a side.<br />

Kennedy, a running back, took the<br />

league by storm in 2016, being named<br />

the league’s offensive rookie of the<br />

year and leading the league in scoring,<br />

despite missing the final three games<br />

with a broken leg.<br />

Though the game looks a little<br />

different, Kennedy doesn’t see much<br />

difference in how fit he has to be to<br />

perform. “I believe that if you are in<br />

shape enough to play outdoor football,<br />

the transition is pretty subtle,” he said.<br />

“The differences for me are more<br />

from the style of play and speed of the<br />

game, which is drastically different<br />

mostly because of the indoor field<br />

size. You only get used to it by actually<br />

playing.”<br />

Kennedy started playing football<br />

when he was 7 years old, and played<br />

soccer and basketball growing up.<br />

He played football for Mercyhurst<br />

University in Pennsylvania, and has<br />

also played in the Canadian Football<br />

League and participated in NFL<br />

tryouts. Now he’s enjoying Spokane,<br />

with its lakes and mountains and trails.<br />

“I love nature and being outdoors, and<br />

I am finding out there is no better place<br />

to experience those things than here in<br />

Spokane,” he said.<br />

Coming back from a broken leg has<br />

been no easy task. Kennedy said he’s<br />

struggled with what he calls athlete’s<br />

dep<strong>res</strong>sion (“The feeling that you will<br />

never be the same,” he said). But once he<br />

began working with a physical therapist<br />

he started seeing <strong>res</strong>ults, and became<br />

confident he could return to the field.<br />

“I struggled with it for a while but I<br />

made it over the hump and am getting<br />

to the fun part now,” he said. “Early on,<br />

while I was still on crutches, I would<br />

go to the gym three days a week. All<br />

I could do at that point was lift upper<br />

body, and I started doing that about a<br />

week after surgery. After two months<br />

in a cast, I was able to begin physical<br />

therapy.”<br />

He’s still recovering from his injury,<br />

but Kennedy has his sights set high.<br />

He hopes to ultimately make a 53-man<br />

roster in the NFL, but isn’t worried if<br />

that’s not in the cards.<br />

“If being the best and working<br />

hard doesn’t take me to the NFL, then<br />

I will have fun while I am chasing<br />

it, because this is what I love to do and<br />

am most passionate about,” he said.<br />

When it’s all over, Kennedy wants to<br />

start his own training facility to work<br />

with elite athletes.<br />

RIGHT Trevor Kennedy catches air in a game<br />

against the Colorado Crush.<br />

44 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

mind + body<br />

Picasa<br />

Picasa<br />

Trevor Kennedy<br />

Age: 26<br />

Born: Akron, Ohio<br />

Residence: Spokane<br />


In the off-season, Kennedy trains five days a<br />

week and takes two <strong>res</strong>t days. Four of the five<br />

days are split into two workouts lasting about<br />

two hours.<br />

• Thirty minutes of stretching and warming up.<br />

• Speed days: running technique and drills, use a<br />

parachute for <strong>res</strong>istance running.<br />

• Upper body days: push/pull system doing<br />

exercises such as bench with a barbell row,<br />

or dumbbell single-arm p<strong>res</strong>s with pullups.<br />

• Lower body days: Focus on whatever<br />

attribute he is trying to improve or increase.<br />

Example: linear speed—start with a hang clean<br />

fol<strong>low</strong>ed by squats, deadlifts and auxiliary exercises.<br />

Average training week<br />

• Monday: 5 a.m. workout focusing on speed. 4 p.m.<br />

heavy leg workout.<br />

• Tuesday: 5 a.m. position-specific footwork and<br />

skills drills. 4 p.m. upper body lifting.<br />

• Wednesday: <strong>res</strong>t day, stretching and foam rolling<br />

for flexibility.<br />

• Thursday and Friday: variations of Monday and<br />

Tuesday.<br />

• Saturday: strictly skill and plyometrics (explosive<br />

movements).<br />

• Sunday: <strong>res</strong>t day.<br />

In-season, Kennedy trains twice a week at<br />

the most, depending on the time off between<br />

games. Those are usually one upper body day<br />

and one <strong>low</strong>er body day, but mostly he focuses<br />

on <strong>res</strong>t and recovery.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 45

artist in <strong>res</strong>idence<br />

Falling in Love With the American West<br />

The story of how a German couple became one of<br />

America’s largest collectors of Western Art<br />

written written by Jean Gina Picha-Parker<br />

Williams<br />

photography images courtesy by Shauna of Tacoma Intelisano Art Museum<br />

Green River, Wyoming by Thomas Moran.<br />


It is a tale about Erivan and Helga Haub—two Germans who<br />

fell in love with the American West and the stories told through<br />

its art. This love affair led them to embrace the Pacific Northwest<br />

and transform a regional art museum in their adopted hometown<br />

of Tacoma with the gift of a lifetime.<br />

It began on their honeymoon in 1958 while the young couple<br />

was visiting friends near Tacoma. They became entranced with<br />

the region’s expansive views of the water, mountains and fo<strong>res</strong>ts.<br />

The natural beauty moved them to make a summer home in the<br />

Pacific Northwest.<br />

The Haubs’ enchantment with the American West evolved<br />

after a trip to Wyoming in 1981. Their appetite became a<br />

hunger for images of wide open spaces, wildlife, cowboys and<br />

American Indians. With considerable wealth and urgency, they<br />

collected art of the American West in earnest. The German<br />

couple surrounded themselves with bronze sculptu<strong>res</strong>, vivid<br />

paintings, detailed carvings and portraits from famous artists.<br />

This love affair lasted thirty years before they decided to share<br />

their extensive collection. They chose Tacoma, the place where<br />

their American experience began. “The family decided to keep<br />

this collection of American Western Art together and find the<br />

best possible home for it,” said Lilian Haub, the Haubs’ daughter<br />

in-law. “Once we met the team at the Tacoma Art Museum, the<br />

decision was easy.”<br />

The Haubs donated 295 pieces and a $20 million gift to double<br />

the museum’s size to provide space for the new collection.<br />

In November 2014, at the inaugural exhibition, Tacoma Art<br />

Museum took its place as one of the largest collections of art<br />

from the American West. “Tacoma Art Museum has been a<br />

cultural anchor in the city since 1935 and this is one of the<br />

most outstanding moments in those seventy-nine<br />

years,” Tacoma Art Museum (TAM) director Stephanie<br />

Stebich said.<br />

46 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

AAWArail.org<br />

Like to travel by train?<br />

Join All Aboard Washington’s members in shaping<br />

our rail future. Visit AAWArail.org to learn more.<br />


Ravel<br />

Tribute a<br />

to<br />

43x60x50<br />

Georgia Gerber<br />

RAVEL ................................... La Valse<br />

SCHMITT ..................La Tragedie de Salome (Suite)<br />

DUBUGNON ....XIX “Le Soleil” from Arcanes Symphoniques (2001)<br />

RAVEL ..........................Rhapsodiie espagnole<br />

RAVEL .....................................Bolero<br />

FEBRUARY 25 8 PM<br />

discover contemporary sculptor ivan mclean in our<br />

landmark sculpture garden across from the city park &<br />

info center. Collectors Selection of Georgia Gerber<br />

Bronze Sculpture. Master of Fine Art Photography<br />

Christopher Burkett.<br />

Selected by Travel Oregon to rep<strong>res</strong>ent the Arts in Cannon beach<br />

"Cannon Beach is one of Americas 100 best art towns”<br />

232 North Spruce<br />

Cannon Beach<br />

503 436 0741<br />

info@NWBYNWGALLERY.com<br />

FEBRUARY 26 3 PM<br />

Concert sponsored by:<br />


and The Heaton Family<br />

TICKETS: 509 624 1200<br />


In November 2014, at<br />

the inaugural exhibition,<br />

Tacoma Art Museum<br />

took its place as one of<br />

the largest collections<br />

of art from the<br />

American West.<br />

48 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

artist in <strong>res</strong>idence<br />

Michael Abella<br />

LEFT CLOCKWISE Conjuring Back the Buffalo by Frederic Remington.<br />

Cowgirl by Billy Schneck. Helga and Erivan Haub.<br />

Since the collection’s opening, a steady stream of<br />

Western Art enthusiasts has flocked to the new wing<br />

to see masterworks dating from the 1790s to the<br />

p<strong>res</strong>ent. The artists include Gilbert Stuart, Thomas<br />

Moran, Frederic Remington and Georgia O’Keeffe.<br />

“These extraordinary pieces provide a window and<br />

al<strong>low</strong> us to have conversations about our environment,<br />

our relationships with the diverse communities of the<br />

American West and to be reminded that the West is<br />

a rich, complicated place that we call home,” observed<br />

Rock Hushka, TAM’s chief curator.<br />

Early on, the collection was criticized for the idealized<br />

images of American Indians. Of the 140 artists in the<br />

Haub collection, just three are American Indian. “There<br />

is a hard romanticism we face as Native people,” said<br />

Qwalsius–Shaun Peterson, a Puyallup tribal member,<br />

artist and TAM board member. “A story and archetype<br />

have taken hold that we have little to no control of. … Some<br />

images are accurate and informed, but those images are<br />

outnumbered by the works that cry out that the vanishing<br />

race concept is real.” Peterson was a contributing artist to a<br />

recent TAM exhibit called “(Re) P<strong>res</strong>enting Native Americans,”<br />

which featured works from American Indians. It asked<br />

visitors to ponder, “What is American identity?”<br />

TAM also recently appointed Faith Brower as the new<br />

curator for the Haub collection. She previously served<br />

as a Western art curator at the High Desert Museum<br />

in Bend, Oregon. Her charge is to shape a vision for<br />

the Haub collection that will more fully articulate the<br />

complex story of the West. “I think Tacoma has started a<br />

really great program of integrating the Native American<br />

voice into the collection,” she said. “Continuing this<br />

effort is important to me and how this collection is going<br />

to be interpreted and portrayed.”<br />

LEFT Piñons with Cedar by Georgia O’Keeffe.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49

Kevin Light<br />

STARTUP 52<br />

WHAT’S GOING UP 54<br />




(pg. 62)<br />

Protection Island featu<strong>res</strong> a variety of marine<br />

life and bird populations.

startup<br />

Arzeda Corporation: Beer-Inspired<br />

Solutions for Global Challenges<br />

Expanding natural processes for global need<br />

written by Cathy Carroll<br />

A rendering of the molecular structure of a protein<br />

molecule designed by Arzeda.<br />

HAVING A BEER AND TALKING about solving<br />

the world’s problems is nothing unusual. One stage Seattle startup, however, is leveraging the age-old<br />

early-<br />

technology behind the beer-making process to solve some<br />

of the most daunting challenges facing the world today.<br />

Alexandre Zanghellini, CEO and co-founder of Arzeda<br />

Corporation, said his endeavor is inspired by the efficiency,<br />

elegance and simplicity of nature’s synthetic biological<br />

processes, such as the fermentation of beer. The company is<br />

on a mission to expand chemical and enzyme-engineering<br />

capabilities found in nature to provide solutions for<br />

p<strong>res</strong>sing global needs.<br />

In beer-making, the microorganism of brewer’s yeast<br />

is used to convert wheat or other grains into one of the<br />

Northwest’s most beloved beverages. The same process can<br />

be altered to ferment renewable <strong>res</strong>ources, converting it into<br />

valuable chemicals, and biotechnology such as this can help<br />

solve some hefty societal challenges, Zanghellini said. He<br />

cited the World Economic Forum’s predictions related to<br />

sustainability, global warming and population growth.<br />

“We need to improve by 70 percent our food production by<br />

2050 to meet the demands on economies by growing populations<br />

worldwide,” he said. The other top challenges are societies’<br />

unsustainable dependence on oil and its environmental harms.<br />

“These are worrying trends, and we have an opportunity with<br />

technology like ours to make an impact.”<br />

Arzeda is partnering with big agriculture and other<br />

biotech companies, applying its protein design technology<br />

with the goal of producing more food for the planet in a<br />

more economical, efficient and environmentally friendly<br />

way. The company is working with DuPont Pioneer Hi-Bred<br />

and has similar new partnerships pending, Zanghellini said.<br />

Essentially, the work entails engineering plants to yield more<br />

food using fewer <strong>res</strong>ources.<br />

52 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

startup<br />

“When you have a plant that absorbs light and water<br />

and biomass as food, it’s inefficient—plants are bad at<br />

it,” he said. “We work with our partners to get 10 or 20<br />

percent more biomass, or food productivity, no matter<br />

how you measure food per unit of input of water, fertilizer<br />

and light. There’s only so much light in a day, but if a<br />

plant is more efficient at using it, you get more per day.<br />

With DuPont, we have been successful at improving the<br />

productivity of a plant.”<br />

Arzeda does the same thing<br />

for chemical partners such<br />

as Invista, one of the world’s<br />

largest integrated producers of<br />

chemical intermediates used<br />

in making nylon, spandex and<br />

polyester for major brands<br />

such as Lycra, Coolmax,<br />

Cordura, Stainmaster and<br />

Antron. These are used for<br />

products from carpeting and<br />

car parts to clothes. “Almost<br />

everything you’re wearing<br />

for running, except cotton, is<br />

effectively made from oil, and<br />

most people don’t know that,<br />

but it’s the case, 100 percent,”<br />

Zanghellini said.<br />

Invista collaborated with<br />

Arzeda to rewire the process<br />

using plant sources instead of<br />

oil. The innovation offers a solution to potentially increasing<br />

the global supply of bio-derived chemicals.<br />

The chemical industry is shifting toward adopting<br />

natural chemical manufacturing methods such as enzyme<br />

fermentation, Zanghellini said. Using these natural methods<br />

can al<strong>low</strong> the limitless manufacture of universal industrial<br />

building blocks such as butanol, isoprene or adipic acid in<br />

“We need to improve<br />

by 70 percent our food<br />

production by 2050<br />

to meet the demands<br />

on economies by<br />

growing populations<br />

worldwide.”<br />

a more environmentally <strong>res</strong>ponsible, sustainable way. This<br />

could eliminate the need for 5 percent of oil production for<br />

the synthetic chemical industry, according to Arzeda.<br />

“We are at the point now where some of these<br />

chemicals are hitting the market at as competitive a price<br />

as the ones produced by oil,” Zanghellini said. “Oil had<br />

dropped to $40 or $50 a barrel, so it was hard to compete<br />

the last few years, but now the first products are hitting<br />

the market with more and more renewables, from plants<br />

versus oil, and that’s creating<br />

opportunities for us.”<br />

The endeavor gained ground in<br />

2008, when Zanghellini and three<br />

other computational biologists<br />

published two seminal papers on<br />

computational enzyme design<br />

and synthesis in the elite journals<br />

Science and Nature. They laid<br />

the groundwork for Arzeda with<br />

preliminary operations at the<br />

University of Washington Center<br />

for Commercialization in Seattle.<br />

With some seed investment,<br />

Arzeda was in business by<br />

July 2009. Without any large<br />

investments, it grew with<br />

customer revenue from the<br />

start, said Zanghellini, who<br />

earned his Ph.D. from the<br />

University of Washington and<br />

a master’s degree in scientific engineering from ENSTA/<br />

ParisTech in France.<br />

Today, the company’s team of eighteen works in a<br />

Seattle building about 5 miles from where they began, in<br />

a building with a lab on the first floor and computational<br />

teams above.<br />

— Alexandre Zanghellini,<br />

CEO and co-founder of Arzeda<br />

Photography and illustration courtesy of Arzeda Corporation<br />

FROM LEFT Arzeda’s CEO, Alex Zanghellini, performing screening experiments.<br />

Arzeda co-founder Daniela Grabs inspects bacterial colonies. A software engineer<br />

designs a new protein molecule.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53

what’s going up?<br />


Swiss Hotel Leavenworth<br />

BMI will build the hotel under the<br />

name Swiss Hotel Leavenworth.<br />

Plans call for the 24,000-squarefoot<br />

structure to be built on 3<br />

ac<strong>res</strong> adjacent to Safeway at the<br />

east entrance of town. Amenities<br />

will include an indoor pool,<br />

meeting rooms, breakfast facilities,<br />

ski-gear storage areas and around<br />

ninety-five parking spaces.<br />

swisshotelleavenworth.com<br />

Element Redmond<br />

This new sleek Westin concept<br />

puts business travelers about a<br />

mile from Microsoft headquarters<br />

and close to Boeing and other<br />

corporate entities. The 131-<br />

room hotel offers extended-stay<br />

accomodations, too. Part of<br />

the Starwood Hotels company,<br />

Element Redmond is part of a<br />

28-acre, mixed-use development,<br />

Esterra Park. The hotel is expected<br />

to open May 25.<br />

elementhotels.com<br />

Building Boom<br />

Charter Hotel, Seattle<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

ADD A NEW NEIGHBOR to the menu of feisty Biscuit Bitch in Seattle’s<br />

Belltown district. Charter Hotel, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton,<br />

is planning a $52 million, sixteen-story, 229-room chic hotel at Second<br />

Avenue and Stewart Street. Charter Hotel will offer a full-service<br />

<strong>res</strong>taurant, meeting space as well as a top floor lounge and outdoor<br />

terrace. Construction is expected to be completed <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 2018.<br />

54 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

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what i’m working on<br />

Sawyer Buckminster Fuller, Ph.D.<br />

Making fly-sized robots<br />

interview by Cathy Carroll<br />


professor of mechanical engineering at the University<br />

of Washington, works on a very tiny scale. Fuller creates<br />

biologically inspired sensors, control systems, and<br />

mechanical designs targeted at insect-sized air and ground<br />

vehicles, and studies the flight systems of flying insects.<br />

He also developed a frog-hopping robot at the NASA Jet<br />

Propulsion Laboratory and invented an ink-jet printer<br />

capable of fabricating millimeter-scale 3D metal machines<br />

at the MIT Media Lab.<br />

He uses the right side of his brain, too. A Jackson Pollackesque<br />

depiction of the flight paths of flies captured by a<br />

multi-camera fly tracker took first prize in the 2008 Art of<br />

Science show.<br />

He surfs, prefers riding bicycles to driving cars and admi<strong>res</strong><br />

Buckminster Fuller, the twentieth-century inventor and<br />

visionary (and Harvard dropout), but they are not related.<br />

OG Photography<br />

What are the challenges of creating a<br />

fully autonomous robot as small as a fly?<br />

It is not enough to simply reduce component<br />

size. Many conventional robot and aircraft<br />

technologies such as electric motors, GPS<br />

sensing, gliding flight, and even generalpurpose<br />

microprocessors cannot operate<br />

efficiently or effectively at insect scale. This is<br />

because dominant physical effects change as<br />

scale reduces. One way to overcome this is to<br />

look to solutions used by biology.<br />

For example, rather than gliding like birds,<br />

flies and bees continually flap their wings<br />

as an adaptation to the greater effect of<br />

viscous drag at small scale. More than that,<br />

insects have superlative capabilities that<br />

outclass current robots.<br />

Watch as a honeybee navigates to a f<strong>low</strong>er<br />

and then deftly lands on it while buffeted<br />

by wind—all of which is orchestrated by a<br />

tiny brain.<br />

What are some of the practical<br />

applications of insect-scale robots?<br />

With challenges in manufacturing,<br />

sensing, feedback control and power, the<br />

work is still in <strong>res</strong>earch and development.<br />

It may be possible to deploy a lot at once<br />

for the same cost as a single larger robot.<br />

Applications could be in search and<br />

<strong>res</strong>cue, assisted agriculture, atmospheric<br />

measurements and ad-hoc wireless<br />

networking. In all of these cases, having<br />

a lot of little robots will really speed things<br />

up or fundamentally improve <strong>res</strong>ults.<br />

You believe your work may give insights<br />

into the operation of the brain?<br />

I am also inte<strong>res</strong>ted in how insects control<br />

their motion, which is amazing and still<br />

not very well understood. I hope that<br />

by building robotic counterparts at the<br />

equivalent scale, we can test hypotheses<br />

about insect flight. These animals are<br />

actually not simple at all, but they are<br />

simpler than mammals, making it easier<br />

to understand how their brains operate,<br />

which could give clues about our own.<br />

56 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

Morgan Freeman<br />

SU2C Ambassador<br />

Executive Producer<br />

of the documentary,<br />

The C Word<br />

Tonya Peat<br />

Cancer Survivor<br />

Be the breakthrough. <br />

Breakthroughs are the patients<br />

participating in clinical trials, the<br />

scientists and doctors working<br />

together to advance the fi ght<br />

against cancer, and the brave<br />

survivors like Tonya who never<br />

give up. Let’s be the breakthrough.<br />

To learn about appropriate<br />

screenings and clinical trials<br />

or to help someone with cancer,<br />

go to su2c.org/breakthrough.<br />

#cancerbreakthrough<br />

Stand Up To Cancer is a program of the Entertainment Industry Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charitable organization. Please talk to your healthcare provider about appropriate screenings for your age, sex, family history and<br />

risk factors; and about clinical trials that may be right for you. Photo by Nigel Parry

my workspace<br />

My Workspace<br />

Andy Sahlfeld<br />

Veteran ski patroller at Mt. Baker<br />

written by Cathy Carroll<br />

photography by Grant Gunderson<br />

Andy Sahlfeld, 46, has one of the world’s best winter<br />

commutes, albeit an early one. He rises well before<br />

dawn in an A-frame at 4,200 feet at the Mt. Baker Ski<br />

Area, walks out the door to a chairlift, and rides 2,000<br />

feet to the Panorama Dome “Pandome” Hut at 5,200<br />

feet, Ski Patrol headquarters. The morning meeting<br />

happens outside the hut, where Sahlfeld delegates<br />

duties of the day to roughly ten patrollers.<br />

The Pandome Hut is close to cliffs with up to<br />

100-foot drops. One patroller is stationed there<br />

for <strong>res</strong>cues, which usually happen once or twice<br />

a month. Cliff <strong>res</strong>cue gear in the hut includes<br />

two 100-meter ropes, anchors, belay devices<br />

and other high-angle <strong>res</strong>cue equipment.<br />

Inside the hut, there’s a camp stove, but people<br />

usually bring a sack lunch and hot drinks.<br />

“We don’t keep food in there because of the<br />

occasional pine marten,” Sahlfeld said. “If you<br />

don’t watch your stuff, they come out, though<br />

they usually don’t like people. Every once in a<br />

while, there’s a wild one in there in the morning,<br />

and they’re pretty vicious.”<br />

58 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

my workspace<br />

The 1998-99 season, Sahlfeld’s rookie year on patrol,<br />

was also the year Mt. Baker set the world record for<br />

annual snowfall—1,140 inches, or 95 feet.<br />

“We’d just finished our avalanche control, and one team<br />

member wasn’t there,” Sahlfeld said. “It turned out<br />

he had skied on his own, fallen and gotten buried. We<br />

found him in time—he almost died—he’d just gotten to<br />

the point where he’d stopped breathing.”<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59

game changer<br />

Salaam Cultural Museum<br />

Sending positive aid in violent times<br />

written by Tricia Louvar<br />

RITA ZAWAIDEH SLEEPS about two<br />

hours a night in her Seattle home, then<br />

she’s up and on the phone with people on<br />

the other side of the world.<br />

The 65-year-old Madaba, Jordan-native<br />

lives and breathes activist change seven days<br />

a week. She p<strong>res</strong>ides over the Seattle-based<br />

nonprofit organization, Salaam Cultural<br />

Museum (SCM), which she founded eleven<br />

years ago.<br />

SCM started as a traveling museum to<br />

p<strong>res</strong>erve cultural artifacts from the Middle<br />

East and North Africa. Her collection of<br />

relics date back to the B.C. era, with the intent<br />

of fostering understanding, compassion,<br />

appreciation and education. SCM has<br />

exhibited in public spaces, schools and popup<br />

gallery spaces around Seattle.<br />

The SCM, however, morphed into a<br />

multifaceted nonprofit organization that<br />

has spearheaded medical missions and the<br />

collecting and distribution of humanitarian aid<br />

to Syrian refugees in Jordan and Greece camps<br />

as well as assisting in their stateside <strong>res</strong>ettlement.<br />

To make the medical missions in the<br />

Middle East and North Africa happen,<br />

Zawaideh used her cultural status, lineage<br />

and know-how to become a registered<br />

non-governmental organization (NGO) in<br />

Jordan and managed the medical missions<br />

at the borders of Jordan, Syria and Iraq for<br />

the refugees. “For the first four years, every<br />

forty-five days we took a new medical<br />

mission. The doctors saw 700 patients a<br />

day. The dentists treated between seventy<br />

to a hundred patients a day and that was<br />

just in Jordan,” Zawaideh said.<br />

Doctors, technicians, humanitarians<br />

and good-hearted people volunteered<br />

their time and services to SCM Medical<br />

Missions. Today, SCM focuses less on<br />

medical missions and more on collecting,<br />

packaging and delivering humanitarian aid<br />

from Seattle to Jordan and Greece, where<br />

her network distributes the items to camps<br />

of refugees.<br />

“The donations come from all over<br />

the United States. If people go, they pay<br />

their own way,” Zawaideh said. SCM<br />

is completely volunteer-run. “These<br />

volunteers are giving up their lives, leaving<br />

their husbands, wives, families, who have<br />

never been the Middle East just to help<br />

people in need. That to me is humbling.”<br />

Syrian refugees in Greece receive food, as well as clothing<br />

and other assistance, through Salaam Cultural Museum.<br />

SCM volunteers also work at the Syrian<br />

refugee camps to teach yoga, jewelry-making<br />

and craft-making, which gives them job skills for<br />

when they relocate to the United States. With<br />

the complete life upheaval from violence and<br />

village decimation, Syrian refugees arrive in the<br />

U.S. not knowing the culture and language and<br />

with no money. SCM puts out notices for those<br />

relocated Syrian families in need of assistance.<br />

If Seattleites cannot offer money, then time is<br />

an asset to help refugees navigate the land of<br />

change and <strong>res</strong>ettlement.<br />

Each day twenty boxes of donated items<br />

arrive at SCM. Volunteers sort and pack<br />

the humanitarian aid for large shipments<br />

sent to Jordan, where the aid travels from<br />

Aqaba, then Amman and finally into the no<br />

man’s land of refugee camps.<br />

For someone who has been a<br />

humanitarian for thirty years, Zawaideh<br />

continues her fight for all humanity. “My<br />

friends keep telling me I can’t save the<br />

world. But I’m going to keep trying to save<br />

the world until I’m told I can’t,” she said.<br />

“Every little bit helps.”<br />

60 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017


when it matters most<br />

For more than three decades, Ronald McDonald House Charities ® of Oregon and Southwest Washington<br />

has provided a “home away from home” for more than 37,000 families with seriously ill children.<br />

Oregon’s three Ronald McDonald Houses can host up to 56 families per night, offering a beautiful<br />

place to stay, compassionate hospitality, home-cooked meals, and so much more.<br />

To learn more, visit rmhcoregon.org



Island. Then in 1988 the U.S. Fish and<br />

Wildlife Service transformed it into a<br />

national wildlife refuge, evicting all human<br />

life—well, nearly all.<br />

Marty Bluewater’s boat eased along the<br />

narrow channel. Her captain exercised<br />

caution in the ebbing tide. Running<br />

aground now would mean being stuck for<br />

hours until the flood returned. Overhead,<br />

a pair of bald eagles soared in the updraft<br />

while scanning the bay for fish on its<br />

surface. Approaching a small manmade<br />

harbor at Violet Point, we were engulfed by<br />

a cacophony of screaming seagulls trying<br />

to feed their offspring while warding off<br />

greedy neighbors. On shore, a colony of<br />

seals bathed in the sun, each lifting its gaze<br />

to blink s<strong>low</strong>ly before dozing off again.<br />

Gliding up to the guano-encrusted dock,<br />

the skipper, nicely tanned with a full head<br />

of curly gray hair and wearing all white—<br />

shirt, shorts, socks and sneakers—casually<br />

tied off his vessel and shut down the<br />

engines. He has done this for forty-five<br />

years, since he first flew over this islet as<br />

a college graduate in the early 1970s and<br />

fell in love with it. “Welcome to Protection<br />

Island,” Bluewater said with an ocean-wide<br />

smile. “Welcome to Fantasy Land.”<br />


ISLAND<br />

An islet became a wildlife haven after humans<br />

were evicted—except one<br />

written by Dieter Loibner<br />

62<br />

photography by Kevin Light<br />

<strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />

62 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017


48.1273° N, 122.9297° W<br />

Born in 1948 in Albuquerque, New Mexico, Bluewater’s<br />

heritage is equal parts Choctaw, Shawnee, Irish and<br />

Latino. His father was in the U.S. Air Force and moved<br />

the family of six to Seattle when Bluewater was about<br />

10. From 1967 until 1973, Bluewater served in the<br />

Air Force Reserve and graduated from the University<br />

of Washington with a bachelor’s degree in business<br />

administration. He went to work for the university’s<br />

office of financial aid, but spent most of his career with<br />

Seattle Parks and the Woodland Park Zoo, managing<br />

budgets, business and operations. After retiring, he<br />

volunteered on the board of United Indians of All<br />

Tribes Foundation and became its director for a couple<br />

years. Working with the Tribes, he said, was the most<br />

meaningful thing he had ever done. “It brought me<br />

much closer to my native roots,” he noted.<br />

Shaped like a kingfisher’s head and narrow beak,<br />

Protection Island is 380 ac<strong>res</strong> and sits in the Strait of<br />

Juan de Fuca at the mouth of Discovery Bay. It is only 2<br />

miles northwest of Cape George, a private community<br />

where Bluewater keeps his boat.<br />

A little more than two hours north of the crowded<br />

Seattle metro area, Protection Island might as well<br />

be on another planet. Historically, the S’Klallam tribe<br />

used to hunt water fowl there and called it Cha-chane-cuk.<br />

During the late eighteenth century came<br />

Spanish explorers, who called it Isla de Carrasco. It<br />

was Captain George Vancouver who gave the island<br />

its p<strong>res</strong>ent name when he charted these waters in the<br />

1790s. Since then, it has been farmland and pasture, a<br />

training ground for the U.S. Navy, then subsequently<br />

subdivided for development.<br />

In the 1960s, investors paid $275,000 for the island,<br />

built roads and an air strip and subdivided it into 800<br />

lots called Protection Island Beach Club. “There was<br />

a landing strip for small planes that flew people over<br />

from Everett so they could pick out a building lot,”<br />

Bluewater said as he bumped along the jolting<br />

ride. Bluewater was one of those customers.<br />

Protection Island’s hilly profile, seen from the south<br />

during the approach by boat from Cape George.<br />

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FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63

64 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />

Marty Bluewater walks up the gangway that connects the floating<br />

docks in the harbor with the parking lot where he keeps his van.

In 1971, counseled by his mother, the 23-year-old<br />

Bluewater ponied up $7,000 for a small plot. “I was<br />

hooked,” he recalled. “Over the first five years, we pooled<br />

what money we had to build a small cabin, and we had<br />

great times. I later expanded it with the help of friends.”<br />

Without electricity and offering only scarce water, only<br />

a dozen homes were built. When Protection Island was<br />

designated as a potential wildlife haven, owners were offered<br />

buyouts on a sliding scale of fifteen years’, twenty-five years’<br />

or lifetime use. Bluewater was the only one who opted for<br />

the latter.<br />

“One night, I stood on my deck and cried like a baby at<br />

the thought of maybe losing my place,” Bluewater recalled.<br />

“I find myself in a situation<br />

where … I am forced to defend<br />

what I consider some of my<br />

more basic rights as a United<br />

States citizen,” he wrote in<br />

a statement concerning, the<br />

proposed Protection Island<br />

National Wildlife Refuge Bill. “I<br />

am prepared to go to whatever<br />

limits necessary to retain my<br />

property on Protection Island.<br />

Also, I am perfectly willing to<br />

assist with the development<br />

of any safeguards necessary to<br />

ensure that the unique fragile<br />

character of the Island is<br />

adequately protected. I do not<br />

believe that these things are mutually exclusive.”<br />

The ensuing battle made him a symbol for the conflict<br />

between private property rights and government power.<br />

In the end, Bluewater managed to negotiate maintaining<br />

his small footprint as a property owner while supporting<br />

habitat conservation and <strong>res</strong>toration.<br />

In 1988, the island was turned into a National<br />

Wildlife Refuge. Now, managed under a comprehensive<br />

conservation plan, it is a place where wild things have taken<br />

root. Tufted puffins, rhinoceros auklets, pigeon guillemots,<br />

cormorants, glaucous-winged gulls and bald eagles nest<br />

here. Oystercatchers and fifty different species of land birds<br />

have found Protection Island hospitable. Its beaches and<br />

surrounding waters are home to harbor and elephant seals,<br />

sea lions, orcas and other whale species.<br />

Visitors can come by boat, but they are required to<br />

keep 200 yards from shore. A few <strong>res</strong>earchers and a U.S.<br />

Fish and Wildlife Service caretaker periodically spend<br />

Now, managed under<br />

a comprehensive<br />

conservation plan,<br />

it is a place where wild<br />

things have taken root.<br />

time here, but only as long as necessary to carry out their<br />

work. Being here on terra firma without t<strong>res</strong>passing is a<br />

rare privilege.<br />

After he loaded supplies from the boat into his van that<br />

he keeps parked on a gravelly lot, Bluewater popped the<br />

hood to jump the vehicle. “Technology,” he said with a<br />

shrug as it sputtered to life. Up a steep and bumpy hillside<br />

road we went, navigating a narrow shoulder that dropped<br />

precipitously toward the water.<br />

“Let’s stop here for a moment,” Bluewater suggested at<br />

a pullout high above the harbor. It is a spot on the grassy<br />

plateau that offers a sweeping panorama of the Strait of<br />

Juan de Fuca, the Olympic Peninsula to the southwest,<br />

Dungeness Spit due west and<br />

the Canadian shoreline in the<br />

misty distance to the northwest.<br />

Bluewater gazed down at the<br />

ground. “This is where auklets<br />

dig their burrows with that<br />

little horn on the beak,” he said,<br />

pointing to the hillside be<strong>low</strong>.<br />

The number of these nocturnal<br />

birds on this island grew from<br />

fewer than 30,000 in the 1970s to<br />

more than 70,000 today, making<br />

it one of the largest colonies in<br />

North America, according to the<br />

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.<br />

If the island is a refuge for<br />

wildlife, Bluewater’s cabin is his<br />

sanctuary. It sits about 150 feet above the water on a southfacing<br />

bluff, near the Zella M. Schultz Seabird Sanctuary<br />

overlooking Discovery Bay, Diamond Point and the jagged<br />

peaks of the Olympic Mountains. This cabin is also safe<br />

harbor for his musical instruments and a collection of<br />

oddities and mementos that include a framed concert ticket<br />

of Pink Floyd’s The Wall from 1981 in Germany and a plastic<br />

mammoth next to a real mammoth tooth, which he said he<br />

found alongside a piece of a tusk.<br />

Though Bluewater enjoys it here, Protection Island is not<br />

a place of idyllic solitude. Sea otters once made the long and<br />

steep trek up from the beach to his cabin where they holed<br />

up in the septic tank. “Why they’d do that is beyond me,”<br />

he said, shaking his head with amusement. Deer carouse<br />

here, and when he’s out, birds of all feathers flap and hop<br />

nonchalantly around him, leaving their fecal<br />

mark on everything. Summer’s soundtrack largely<br />

consists of the gulls’ piercing shrieks. Come fall,<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 65

they’re all gone, scavenging garbage dumps and fast food<br />

joints in Seattle, Bluewater said with a chuckle. It’s only<br />

then that he can listen to the wind howling around his<br />

chalet while playing music or editing thousands of still<br />

and video images he’s taken over the years as part of an<br />

ongoing documentation of the island.<br />

The island is also a front row seat in the theater of climate<br />

change. Last summer, hundreds of auklets washed up<br />

dead on area beaches, possibly due to starvation. Further,<br />

scientists who study the gull population on the island<br />

noticed an increase in cannibalism. This phenomenon<br />

may correlate with increased sea temperatu<strong>res</strong>, which<br />

pushes fish to cooler water at greater depths, beyond<br />

the reach of birds who feed on them. The rising sea level<br />

also poses a threat, as evidenced by the increasing rate of<br />

shoreline erosion. “Back in the day, I used to camp on the<br />

cliff beyond the little fo<strong>res</strong>t on the north side,” Bluewater<br />

said wistfully. “Now, that spot is completely gone.”<br />

The large number of bald eagles also poses a problem.<br />

“They made a strong comeback after being decimated<br />

by DDT,” Bluewater said, invoking a harmful insecticide<br />

widely used prior to 1972. “But that means they are<br />

fighting for habitat and food, seeking out this island in<br />

larger numbers and feeding on seagulls and auklets. It’s<br />

not normal, but then again, the concept of normal has<br />

gone out the window a long time ago.”<br />

Bluewater jumped his van again for the bumpy trip<br />

back across the plateau and down to Violet Point. The<br />

water level in the harbor is high enough for his vintage<br />

cabin cruiser to traverse the narrow channel safely.<br />

But before heading back to Cape George, he detoured<br />

to Kanem Point on the western end of the island. He<br />

checked in on the elephant seals that had pups here<br />

instead of migrating down the coast to California<br />

and the crowded breeding grounds of Año Nuevo.<br />

But they were out for the day, p<strong>res</strong>umably running<br />

errands. Bluewater shrugged. He knows he’ll be back<br />

on the island soon enough.<br />

Now in his late 60s, Bluewater takes friends and<br />

acquaintances to the island with him, not just to share<br />

his personal wild p<strong>res</strong>erve, but to educate them about<br />

the history and ecology of this place and to support<br />

fundraising efforts of community groups. “Bluewater,”<br />

The Seattle Times quoted a Fish and Wildlife supervisor<br />

saying in 2006, “has been a good neighbor.”<br />

TOP ROW Nautical paraphernalia as garden ornaments don’t distract from the<br />

view at Bluewater’s cabin. A seagull stands sentry on Protection Island.<br />

CENTER ROW The sign that decla<strong>res</strong> the area an animal kingdom. Bluewater<br />

taking a snap from the helm of his powerboat. BOTTOM Panoramic view of<br />

Protection Island’s tiny harbor, where Bluewater docks his boat, and Cape<br />

George in the background, where he keeps it when he’s off the island.<br />

66 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67

TOP 5<br />



Heat things up with trips<br />

to these sweet spots<br />

written by Charyn Pfeuffer<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 69


room with amped-up amorous amenities<br />

can be equally important as its view and<br />

location. As temperatu<strong>res</strong> dip, heat things<br />

up with a romantic getaway. From scenic<br />

coastal <strong>res</strong>orts to snowy mountain lodges,<br />

Washington offers plenty of romantic<br />

lodging options. Here are five next-level<br />

romantic stays that will make your sweetie<br />

swoon. Stay warm and soak it up!<br />

70 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

SUN<br />


LODGE<br />




the largest groomed Nordic ski trail system in North<br />

America with 120 miles of groomed, interconnected<br />

trails surrounded by more than a million ac<strong>res</strong> of<br />

wilderness and fo<strong>res</strong>t lands. If you’re looking to hit the<br />

snow with your sweetie, the area offers an abundance of<br />

cross-country and snowshoeing opportunities. When<br />

you’ve had enough of the snowy winter wonderland,<br />

the lodge is the perfect place to hole up with a wool<br />

blanket, a good book and a boozy mug of<br />

spiked hot cocoa. Whipped cream optional.<br />

EAT<br />

For the ultimate foodgasm, try the silky<br />

heirloom pumpkin soup fol<strong>low</strong>ed by the<br />

peppered venison loin at super-romantic<br />

Arrowleaf Bistro (207 White Ave.). Be sure to<br />

make <strong>res</strong>ervations at this local fave.<br />

DRINK<br />

The Copper Glance (134 Riverside Ave.), a<br />

self-described “petit lounge bar,” boasts more<br />

than twenty bourbon selections, but it’s the<br />

cocktails that shine. Try the Hanky Panky,<br />

made with Beefeater gin, Carpano Antica<br />

vermouth, Fernet Branca and orange bitters.<br />

PLAY<br />

In nearby Leavenworth, Hard Row to Hoe<br />

Vineyards (837 Front St.) opened a suitably<br />

saucy Bavarian brothel motif tasting room<br />

with such wines as Burning Desire Cabernet<br />

Franc and Shameless Hussy Merlot.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71

THE<br />




Seattle will transform its stunning outdoor rooftop<br />

into an indoor-outdoor oasis. To enjoy a romantic<br />

evening and get cozy next to your beau, <strong>res</strong>erve an<br />

exclusive firepit seat where you can sip batchedand<br />

barrel-aged cocktails served over hand-carved<br />

ice. Try the Cara Cara, a tequila-mezcal concoction<br />

made with beet, lime and agave. Then warm your<br />

toes with killer cityscape views of Seattle you<br />

can’t get anywhere else. The brand new property,<br />

conceived by Seattle design sweetheart Olson<br />

Kundig Architects, epitomizes urban chic and puts<br />

our spectacular Cascadian landscape front and<br />

center. It’s hip and swank and everything you’d never<br />

expect from Seattle.<br />

72 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />


EAT<br />

For a culinary experience full of aphrodisiacs<br />

like oysters and a fourteen-course experiential<br />

tasting menu, <strong>res</strong>erve two seats at the intimate<br />

Chef ’s Counter at <strong>res</strong>taurant Scout in the hotel.<br />

DRINK<br />

Slip past the tourists at Pike Place Market and<br />

head up two flights of the Corner Building<br />

to Matt’s in the Market (94 Pike St.). Grab<br />

one of the eight highly prized barstools and<br />

sip a Compromise (a key element in any<br />

relationship), made with Old Overholt Rye,<br />

Dolin blanc, Strega and orange bitters.<br />

PLAY<br />

When the clock strikes 12, the Can Can<br />

Kitchen & Cabaret (94 Pike St. B) comes alive.<br />

Expect Moulin Rouge-inspired sequined<br />

servers, seductive singers, burlesque stars and<br />

an intimate atmosphere in the underbelly of<br />

the market.


EAT<br />

For a casual yet elegant dining experience,<br />

cozy up at Magdalena’s Creperie (1200<br />

10th St. #103) for sweet and savory crépes,<br />

as well as farmer cheese-stuffed pan-fried<br />

Polish pierogis.<br />

FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE WINTER getaway, hole up at<br />

The Chrysalis Inn & Spa. Located on Bellingham Bay, romantic<br />

amenities abound. Think double soaking tubs in every room,<br />

window-seat views of the bay and couples’ massages. For an<br />

extra special treat (and more space), book a king suite.<br />

Head downtown to take advantage of Bellingham’s lively arts<br />

scene. More than thirty venues participate in the First Friday<br />

Art Walk, held from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Expect cozy studios<br />

and artist meet-and-greets beyond your standard-issue gallery<br />

experience. The Whatcom Museum’s Lightcatcher Gallery (250<br />

Flora St.) is also worth a stop. Nearby, the nonprofit Pickford<br />

Film Center (1318 Bay St.) offers a daily, year-round schedule<br />

of independent, art house and noncommercial films. For the<br />

latest local calendar listings, be sure to check out bellingham.<br />

org and fairhaven.com.<br />

DRINK<br />

Beneath sexy chandeliers and vintage<br />

mirrors at The Temple Bar (306 W.<br />

Champion St.), sip the Winter’s Tail,<br />

made from gin, Campari, Dolin rouge<br />

and Zirbenz Stone Pine liqueur.<br />

PLAY<br />

Make out among the stacks at communitybased<br />

indie bookseller Village Books (1200<br />

11th St.), in the historic Fairhaven district.<br />

FEBRUARY MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73

THE<br />

MARCUS<br />




book the Marcus Whitman Romance Package.<br />

It includes accommodations in the historic tower<br />

or the west wing looking out over Walla Walla’s<br />

historic downtown, plus a dining voucher to The<br />

Marc Restaurant—named “Restaurant of the<br />

Year” by the Washington State Wine Commission.<br />

Feeling fancy? Add a bottle of sparkling wine and<br />

chocolate-covered strawberries. Whether you’re<br />

an aspiring wine aficionado or an<br />

oenophile know-it-all, the hotel<br />

offers six on-site tasting rooms<br />

and a rotating winery-of-themonth<br />

tasting menu.<br />


EAT<br />

Indulge in the six-course tasting menu<br />

with wine pairings at Whitehouse-Crawford<br />

Restaurant (55 West Cherry St.), which<br />

featu<strong>res</strong> farm-to-table ingredients and an everchanging<br />

menu.<br />

DRINK<br />

Nearby wineries include Tero Downtown<br />

Tasting Room (6 W. Rose St. #103), an artisanal<br />

boutique winery specializing in small-batch<br />

wines; Lagana Cellars (6 E. Rose St.), which<br />

focuses on white wines; Kerloo Cellars (private<br />

tasting appointments are available; 3911 First<br />

Ave. S.); and the Browne Family Vineyards (31<br />

E. Main St.), where you can enjoy al f<strong>res</strong>co<br />

sipping via their private patio.<br />

PLAY<br />

Book hot stone massages at Misbehavin Spa &<br />

Salon (126 W. Poplar St.).<br />

74 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017


EAT<br />

For a romantic night on the town, snag a<br />

seat by the window for a view of the water<br />

at River’s Edge Restaurant (41 La Push Rd.).<br />

Afterward, take a stroll on La Push beach.<br />

DRINK<br />

Get to know the locals over pints at BBG<br />

Blakeslee Bar & Grill (1222 S. Forks Ave.),<br />

a watering hole with pool tables.<br />

PLAY<br />

Head to the beach for sunset, then build a<br />

beach fire. Fi<strong>res</strong> on the beach are legal. You<br />

can buy firewood at the local Quileute store.<br />



RESORT<br />

LA PUSH<br />

TO EXPERIENCE WINTER storm-watching at<br />

its best, trek about three hours outside Seattle and<br />

hightail it to the coast. The storms of La Push are what<br />

weather-watcher dreams are made of. At Oceanside<br />

Resort, you’re smack dab on the beach, where<br />

accommodations range from cabins to campers.<br />

There’s no better way to spend a winter night than<br />

cuddled next to a fire watching the surf. First Beach<br />

is easy to access, but with a little extra effort, Second<br />

Beach is well worth the 1-mile hike and reward. It’s<br />

remote, wild and downright gorgeous.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 75

Washington’s Whiskey<br />

photography by Jackie Dodd<br />

WASHINGTON IS KNOWN for its beverages (coffee,<br />

anyone?), and one of those beverages is whiskey.<br />

Grey skies call for dark cocktails, after all.<br />

Here, an inside look at Copperworks Distilling, 2bar<br />

Spirits and Westland Distillery, all of which are making<br />

names for themselves in the whiskey world.<br />

Whiskey barrels line the wall of Westland Distillery in Seattle,<br />

where patrons can sip and mingle among the aging whiskeys.

Micah Nutt, owner and distiller at Copperworks Distilling Co.<br />

in Seattle, tends to a batch of whiskey.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Malted grains used in Westland’s<br />

whiskeys. Westland Distillery’s bottles on display. Barrel-aging<br />

whiskey in the back of Copperworks.

A small tasting room at 2bar Spirits in Seattle.

Westland Distillery owner Steve Hawley pours his awardwinning<br />

American oak single malt whiskey.

Courtesy ofSalish Lodge & Spa<br />


ADVENTURE 86<br />

LODGING 92<br />



(pg. 88)<br />

The Salish Lodge & Spa sits above Snoqualmie Falls,<br />

30 miles east of Seattle.<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 83

travel spotlight<br />

Where Dinosaurs Roam<br />

written by Lindsay McWilliams<br />

Photography courtesy of City of Granger<br />

The city of Granger boasts thirty-two dinosaurs throughout town.<br />

AROUND 1993, THE CITY OF GRANGER held a series of<br />

community meetings to discuss how to attract more visitors<br />

to the town, one of Washington’s smallest and poo<strong>res</strong>t<br />

(with a population just greater than 2,000). Recalling<br />

ancient woolly mammoth remains that had been found in<br />

the area decades earlier, the community decided on a new<br />

prehistoric theme for Granger—dinosaurs. A year later, the<br />

town had built its first dinosaur—a baby Brontosaurus—in<br />

Hisey Park out of mesh wire and concrete.<br />

The theme was a success—today, the city of Granger<br />

is home to thirty-two dinosaurs and takes the motto<br />

“where dinosaurs roam.” The giant creatu<strong>res</strong>, which were<br />

first confined to the park, have now spread throughout<br />

downtown, including two Megalosauri that welcome cars<br />

into the city. (Don’t miss the volcano-shaped bathrooms<br />

in the park.)<br />

Every year on the first Saturday in June, the community<br />

gathers for “Dino-N-A-Day” to build a new dinosaur or help<br />

<strong>res</strong>tore older dinosaurs in the “Granger dinosaur family.”<br />

84 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

Inside The Chrysalis Inn & Spa<br />

Trifecta Package<br />

Triple the luxury of your<br />

stay with this all on-site<br />

package that includes<br />

a one night’s stay, $50<br />

credit in the Spa, and<br />

$20 credit in Keenan’s at<br />

the Pier <strong>res</strong>taurant!<br />

Rates start at $259/night + tax.<br />

804 10 th St Bellingham WA (888) 808-0005 thechrysalisinn.com

adventure<br />

Adventure<br />

Three Northwest Nordic Retreats<br />

Snoqualmie Pass, Whistler Blackcomb and Ketchum offer miles<br />

of groomed cross-country skiing and views from another world<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

Courtesy of Sun Valley Resort<br />


New York, I’d abscond five hours north to<br />

Vermont to Nordic ski in the Chittenden area.<br />

Mountain Top, it was called. There were other<br />

places, but none too good and none too<br />

extensive. Who was I to snub the Northeast<br />

after a childhood of extruding pine tar to slide<br />

around thinly wooded spots in the Detroit<br />

area? The Pacific Northwest, however, is<br />

tracked with great networks of Nordic trails.<br />

We have wider spaces, more trails and,<br />

frankly, more stunning settings than our East<br />

Coast cousins.<br />

In this piece, we look at three such places,<br />

all within a day’s drive and known for<br />

massive trail networks—Snoqualmie Pass,<br />

Washington; Whistler Blackcomb and<br />

Ketchum’s North Valley Trail System.<br />

Sun Valley Resort is tucked in at the bases of Bald Mountain and Dollar Mountain.<br />

86 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

Franci<br />

Visit the Palouse<br />

Francisco Aguilar, franciscobaguilar.com<br />

In Eastern Washington, find our state’s official waterfall, capture a 360 degree view<br />

of rolling hills from one butte or hike to see a patchwork of farmland from another.<br />

Stay in Pullman. See our sights. Picture yourself here.<br />

Ask for more from the Pullman Chamber of Commerce | PullmanChamber.com | 800.365.6948<br />

rElAxaTioN<br />

Roughing it isn’t<br />

Without its Luxuries<br />

Dining<br />

Hiking Relaxation Culture Adventure Fishing<br />

Ahh, the art of taking it easy. At Stevenson,<br />

Washington, we define it as a fine meal amidst<br />

stunning views of the Columbia River Gorge.<br />

Or a quiet picnic on the sho<strong>res</strong> of the mighty<br />

Columbia River itself. Or a trip to the spa for<br />

a massage. Come and relax at a place that<br />

leaves st<strong>res</strong>s behind.<br />


adventure<br />



Nordorks, like me, is the 15-kilometer Mt.<br />

Catherine Loop. There are easier routes that<br />

are just as scenic, overlooking Keechelus<br />

Lake, the source of the Yakima River, which<br />

f<strong>low</strong>s 214 miles southeast past Yakima and<br />

into the Columbia Basin. While Keechelus<br />

may mean “few fish” in a Native American<br />

tongue, it could take on a new interpretation<br />

as “many trails” today. In all, Summit at<br />

Snoqualmie Pass consists of 50 kilometers of<br />

cross-country skiing. Just more than 50 miles<br />

east of Seattle, Summit at Snoqualmie is not<br />

the isolationist dream. It is, nonetheless, a<br />

world apart from the bustling Seattle scene.<br />

For $45 roundtrip, you can catch the Seattle<br />

Ski Shuttle from various points downtown<br />

on Saturdays and Sundays. Get a Nordic pass<br />

at the Nordic center. The day-pass includes<br />

two lift rides to access the scenic upper<br />

cross-country trails.<br />

If you’re thinking of booking next year, check<br />

out the Snoqualmie Loppet in late January,<br />

when skiers rally for a 30-kilometer tour<br />

around Mt. Catherine.<br />


Tiroler Stube<br />

summit-at-snoqualmie.com/activities/<br />

dining<br />

The Commonwealth<br />

thepasslife.com/commonwealth<strong>res</strong>taurant<br />


Dru Bru Taproom<br />

drubru.com<br />

Red Mountain Coffee<br />

facebook.com/RedMountainCoffee<br />


Suncadia Resort<br />

destinationhotels.com/<br />

suncadia-<strong>res</strong>ort<br />

Salish Lodge & Spa<br />

salishlodgespa.com<br />

88 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

adventure<br />

Nils Ribi<br />

Cross-country skiers take in the Sun Valley Nordic scene.<br />


KNOWN MOSTLY FOR ITS Hollywood Alpine<br />

skiing royalty, Sun Valley also abuts storied<br />

cross-country trails. Nordic ski trails snake into<br />

Ketchum along Big Wood River, whose origins<br />

and headwaters begin more than 20 miles<br />

northwest of town outside of the Galena Lodge.<br />

Galena Lodge is a classic log cabin built on the<br />

site of the remote mining town that once stood<br />

here. The interior of the lodge was constructed<br />

with material from the old mining camp. Today<br />

it is owned by the local recreational municipality<br />

and is the hub for 50 kilometers of trails in the<br />

Sawtooth National Fo<strong>res</strong>t’s Boulder Mountains.<br />

The network includes some easier trails that<br />

offer great views over the Sawtooth Range and<br />

more athletic trails such as Jenny’s Way. All of<br />

these trails lead you into solitude, then beckon<br />

you back for a hearty lunch at the lodge.<br />

Much like the star-studded walls of Sun<br />

Valley properties, Galena, too, has its own<br />

icon—ketchup hei<strong>res</strong>s Te<strong>res</strong>a Heinz Kerry, who<br />

donated funds in 1992 to save the lodge. Inside<br />

is a full-service cafeteria and an adjacent rental<br />

shop. For beginners, Galena Lodge concessioner<br />

Don Shepler recommends a skate ski lesson. “You<br />

don’t want to learn from your spouse,” he said. “A<br />

lesson is cheaper than marriage counseling.”<br />

Intermediate to expert Nordic skiers will be<br />

inte<strong>res</strong>ted in hitting the Harriman Trails, which<br />

run for 23 miles from the lodge gently downhill<br />

and back into Ketchum. If you’re a classic fanatic<br />

like me, you’ll want to ski the Harriman Trails<br />

in the opposite direction, or gently uphill from<br />

Ketchum to Galena. A shuttle from town to<br />

Galena Lodge—back this year—runs thrice daily<br />

Thursday through Sunday from December 22 to<br />

<strong>Feb</strong>ruary 5. For those who don’t want the burden<br />

of a marathon ski, park at one of the trailheads<br />

along State Highway 75 and measure your own<br />

out and back.<br />

Shepler’s ideal itinerary involves skiing the<br />

Harriman Trails, sharing a lunch at the lodge<br />

(“Our lunches are huge!”), then heading back to<br />

the new Middle Eastern-inspired Town Square<br />

Tavern for a cocktail, or perhaps a lamb burger<br />

($12 lunch, $16 dinner).<br />

From the Mason family, owners of mountain<br />

cozy Ketchum Grill and chic Enoteca, Town<br />

Square Tavern is a new example of their<br />

culinary creativity, with this well-designed<br />

minimalist venue.<br />


Galena Lodge (lunch)<br />

galenalodge.com<br />

Town Square Tavern<br />

ketchumtavern.com<br />

Ketchum Grill<br />

ketchumgrill.com<br />


Whiskey Jacques’<br />

whiskeyjacques.com<br />

Pioneer Saloon<br />

pioneersaloon.com<br />

Grumpy’s<br />

grumpyssunvalley.com<br />


Galena Lodge Yurts<br />

galenalodge.com/yurt-information<br />

Sun Valley Lodge<br />

sunvalley.com/lodging<br />

Limelight Ketchum<br />

limelighthotels.com/ketchum<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 89

adventure<br />

Mike Crane<br />

Among the 160 kilometers of Nordic trails in the Whistler Blackcomb area is<br />

the site of the 2010 Winter Olympics.<br />



Blackcomb area takes place on 160<br />

kilometers of trails and three venues—<br />

Lost Lake Park, Callahan Country and<br />

Whistler Olympic Park.<br />

On the edge of Whistler Village is<br />

a gateway to scenery along Lost Lake<br />

Park’s 32 kilometers of trails. These<br />

groomed trails take skiers past Lost Lake<br />

PassiveHaus, the former Olympic home of<br />

the 2010 Austrian Nordic team, and into<br />

the cradle of the Whistler and Blackcomb<br />

mountains. Beginners should consider<br />

taking the easy jaunt out and around Lost<br />

Lake on the Lost Lake Loop trail. This<br />

4-kilometer loop is lit at night and offers<br />

photographic views of the silver tarn and<br />

snow-covered andecite of the surrounding<br />

mountains. Skiers seeking a strong fitness<br />

regime will look to the longer, more<br />

challenging terrain of Centennial, Hydro<br />

Hill and up to Black Loop on the Fairmont<br />

Whistler Golf Course. Of course, no one<br />

should leave without stepping into a cabin<br />

of the 4.4 kilometers long Peak2Peak<br />

Gondola and soaring up to Christine’s<br />

<strong>res</strong>taurant for a hearty red wine and confit<br />

lamb shoulder.<br />

Want to take it back to nature? Head to<br />

Callahan Country just a 2-kilometer drive<br />

west of Olympic Village at Whistler. Drop<br />

in to the full-service shop at Alexander<br />

Falls Ski Touring Centre and be treated<br />

to 130 kilometers of skiable terrain. A<br />

sucker for mountain lakes, I suggest taking<br />

Mainline out to Callahan Lake or the<br />

shorter Madeley Road out to Woods Lake.<br />

Remember the Nordic events of the 2010<br />

Winter Olympics? The Whistler Olympic<br />

Park trails where Norwegians, Swedes<br />

and Germans skied to many medals are<br />

p<strong>res</strong>erved in groomed perfection for the<br />

<strong>res</strong>t of us. With 90 kilometers of trails<br />

for classic and skate (30 kilometers of<br />

these are dog-friendly for a $5 charge),<br />

you can explore some of the same trails<br />

we watched during the Olympics. While<br />

adult day-passes are not nothing at $27,<br />

Wednesdays are marked down to $5.<br />


Araxi Restaurant and Oyster Bar<br />

araxi.com/oyster-bar<br />

Harajuku Izakaya Restaurant<br />

harajuku.ca<br />


Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub<br />

dubhlinngate.com<br />

Bar Oso<br />

baroso.ca<br />


Fairmont Chateau Whistler<br />

fairmont.com/whistler<br />

Coast Blackcomb Suites<br />

coastblackcombsuites.com<br />

Journeyman Lodge<br />

callaghancountry.com<br />

90 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

the<br />

UNbeaten path<br />

It will find you when you’re ready.<br />

Nonstop flights from 6 major cities<br />


lodging<br />

ROOMS<br />

Hotel Monaco’s rooms are spacious<br />

by boutique hotel standards. Plentiful<br />

room options include a 500-squarefoot<br />

king deluxe with city views and<br />

a deep soaking tub. Décor is modern,<br />

charming and a bit eclectic, with lightinducing<br />

hues of grey and white.<br />

Hotel Monaco Seattle<br />

written by Julie Lee<br />

Location, location, location. Within<br />

walking distance to many of Seattle’s<br />

destination attractions is a premier hotel<br />

in which to unwind, ground down and<br />

<strong>res</strong>t weary feet. Hotel Monaco is a stylish<br />

link in a chain of Kimpton hotels, offering<br />

perks that range from the essential—<br />

such as nightly hosted wine—to the<br />

CLOCKWISE TOP Hotel Monaco’s lounge. A guest room in<br />

the hotel. The <strong>res</strong>taurant at Hotel Monaco.<br />

outlandish: companion goldfish, anyone?<br />

This is a hotel that has transcended two<br />

decades as a vital landing place in Seattle<br />

and gracefully aged with time.<br />

1101 4TH AVE.<br />


monaco-seattle.com<br />

DINING<br />

A recently rebooted <strong>res</strong>taurant<br />

concept anchors the hotel, bringing<br />

approachable yet creative dishes<br />

to hotel guests while inspiring<br />

destination dining for locals. The<br />

seasonally driven menu invokes<br />

sharing and social dining. Daily<br />

flatbreads are a go-to, perfectly<br />

charred in the brick oven, with<br />

shareable pastas and rotisserie as<br />

main options. The bar highlights<br />

Washington beer and wine,<br />

specializing in a variety of brown<br />

liquors, house infusions, tinctu<strong>res</strong><br />

and specialty cocktails using<br />

locally distilled spirits and farm<br />

f<strong>res</strong>h juices. New is an expansive<br />

outdoor patio: an extension of the<br />

main dining and bar space, with<br />

a retractable canopy, overhead<br />

heaters and fire pits.<br />


For a great stretch, each guest room<br />

comes equipped with a yoga mat,<br />

and for good karma join the Kimpton<br />

Karma Reward program and receive a<br />

$10 bar credit. Complimentary bikes<br />

are at the ready for a cruise around<br />

town, and pets are welcomed with<br />

treats. Check out the current ‘Use It,<br />

Snooze It & Booze It —Just Don’t Lose<br />

It’ package: repurpose your unused<br />

vacation days with a hotel stay, and<br />

receive a bottle of liquor with the<br />

appropriate accompanying mixer, late<br />

checkout and $1 off valet parking for<br />

every unused vacation day.<br />


Seattle offers locals and tourists a<br />

hearty selection of things to do and<br />

places to go, and Hotel Monaco is at<br />

the hub of it all. It’s a short, Fitbitslaying<br />

hike to Pike Place Market,<br />

the Space Needle, Pioneer Square,<br />

CenturyLink Field, Safeco Field and<br />

the Seattle Aquarium.<br />

92 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

NW_Magads_Quarterpage.pdf 1 1/20/17 1:01 PM<br />

Welcome to the<br />

Beautiful Olympic Coast!<br />

Frommer’s decla<strong>res</strong> the most spectacular<br />

setting anywhere on the Washington Coast<br />

at historic Ocean C<strong>res</strong>t Resort .<br />

Steps To Haystack Rock<br />

Ocean Front Suites<br />

Fireplaces<br />

Fitness Center<br />

Onsite Masseuse<br />

Seasonal Specials<br />

Fabulous New Restaurant & Bar<br />

With Sweeping Seascape Views<br />

New Gift Shop Featuring<br />

Local Arts & Crafts<br />

Indoor Pool & Spa<br />

Direct Beach Access<br />

Spectacular Ocean Views<br />

Cozy Fireplace Rooms<br />

Free WiFi<br />

Family Friendly<br />

Pet Friendly<br />

No Cleaning Fees<br />


4651 SR 109 • 800-684-8439 • info@OceanC<strong>res</strong>tResort.com<br />

OceanC<strong>res</strong>tResort<br />

Indoor Salt-Water Pool<br />

Pet-Friendly Rooms<br />

Meeting Space<br />

- National Geographic<br />

TolovanaInn.com 1-800-333-8890

trip planner<br />

San Juan Island<br />

Scanning the surf for marine mammals<br />

written by Charyn Pfeuffer<br />

THE WATERS SURROUNDING San Juan Island are<br />

indeed one of the best spots in the country to see<br />

whales in the wild —especially orcas. Out of pure<br />

marine wildlife-loving curiosity, two summers ago I<br />

completed the Marine Naturalist Training Program<br />

through the Whale Museum and have been hot on<br />

the whale trail ever since.<br />

The second I set foot on Washington State Ferries<br />

in Anacortes for the one-hour crossing to Friday<br />

Harbor, I took out my binoculars to scan the Rosario<br />

Strait for stellar sea lions, harbor seals, harbor<br />

porpoises, humpbacks, minkes and orcas. Here’s<br />

how to make the most of whale watching<br />

on San Juan Island in forty-eight hours.<br />

Whale watching with Maya’s Legacy.<br />

94 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

trip planner<br />

Photo courtesy of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 95

trip planner<br />

Day<br />


If you want to watch whales from shore, head up the west<br />

side of San Juan Island to Lime Kiln Point State Park.<br />

Pull out at the Westside Scenic P<strong>res</strong>erve for photo-ready<br />

180-degree views of Haro Strait, and beyond, the Olympic<br />

Mountains. Whales and marine life are frequently spotted<br />

from the half-mile stretch of rocky bluffs, greeting visitors<br />

who traverse the roughly fifteen-minute ride across the<br />

island from the ferry to the coast. Continue to wind along<br />

Westside Road another 3 miles until you reach Lime Kiln<br />

Point State Park, aka Whale Watch Park. Your best bet for<br />

seeing whales is to hunker down at one of the picnic tables<br />

along the short coastal hiking trail or near the centuryold<br />

lighthouse. It’s easy to while away a few hours over<br />

a book, packed lunch or board games. (I’ve logged many<br />

hours at this park and have been rewarded with marine life<br />

sightings, including the second confirmed sighting of a fin<br />

whale since 1930 last summer.) As you sit among the rustcolored<br />

Pacific Madrones, listen to the nearby Lime Kiln<br />

Hydrophone, which signals the p<strong>res</strong>ence of the Southern<br />

Resident Killer Whales. This extended family consists of<br />

three pods: J, K and L. The fragile population of eighty-two<br />

orcas is protected by the Endangered Species Act, and it<br />

feels like a privilege to be in their p<strong>res</strong>ence.<br />

Venture into the 1919 lighthouse and spend some time<br />

talking with volunteer Jeanne Hyde. Tours are available<br />

during the summer months. Hyde was a naturalist with<br />

Maya’s Legacy and has encyclopedic knowledge of the<br />

Southern Resident Killer Whales and the fragile surrounding<br />

marine ecosystem. In a recent conversation, she talked<br />

about the key role wild salmon habitats play in the survival<br />

of our beloved local population and the differences between<br />

the Southern Resident Killer Whales and Transients, or<br />

Bigg’s Killer Whales. The former are pescatarians with<br />

a fancy for Chinook salmon, while the latter are marine<br />

mammal hunters named for Michael Bigg, a Canadian<br />

marine biologist who first developed photo-identification<br />

techniques via dorsal fin markings. When I mentioned<br />

the sighting of a humpback the previous evening, Hyde<br />

played an audio file of another male humpback, the first<br />

one recorded singing in Haro Strait. She admitted she slept<br />

alongside the hydrophone so as to not miss any sounds<br />

throughout the night. The best time to see whales<br />

in nearby waters is from May to September.<br />

Photo courtesy of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />

Kathleen Ballard Jim Maya<br />

FROM TOP A killer whale breaches the water in Haro Strait. A<br />

century-old lighthouse at Kiln Point State Park. Points around San<br />

Juan Island offer views of whales and other marine life.<br />

96 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

1.888.965.7001 YourLittleBeachTown.com<br />

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vacation rental homes are the perfect winter escape.<br />

And all are within walking distance of the original<br />

Pelican Brewing brewpub where hearty food and<br />

award winning brews await. Time to pack your parka.<br />

nromanceP<br />


Discover the Season for Romance this winter in the beautiful San Juan Islands.<br />

Plan a relaxing spa getaway for two, an intimate Valentine’s celebration, an<br />

arm-in-arm walk on the beach. Or simply take the time to be together.<br />

LEARN MORE AT: VisitSanJuans.com/Romance<br />

Orcas Island • Lopez Island • San Juan Island / Friday Harbor

trip planner<br />

Photo courtesy of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />

Day<br />


A whale appears in the water as Mt. Baker looms in the distance.<br />

During my annual one-week vacation on San<br />

Juan Island, my orca-obsessed crew spends two<br />

days on the water with Maya’s Legacy Whale<br />

Watching. I’ve gone out whale watching with<br />

many outfitters on San Juan Island, and these folks<br />

are my favorite. Launching from Snug Harbor,<br />

the small boats accommodate just six passengers.<br />

Maya’s Legacy has a brand new, slightly larger<br />

vessel that leaves from Friday Harbor, which<br />

is convenient for travelers without wheels.<br />

Compared to other whale-watching boats, it’s a<br />

far more intimate, interactive experience. Often<br />

there’s group input on whether to stay with a<br />

group of whales or move on to the next marine<br />

wildlife adventure.<br />

On a recent outing, Captain Alan Nikes<br />

and our naturalist, Rachael Mueller, a Ph.D.<br />

in physical oceanography, led us north out<br />

Haro Strait through Boundary Pass. We<br />

slipped between the Gulf Islands National Park<br />

P<strong>res</strong>erve, through Boat Pass into the Strait of<br />

Georgia and headed for the mouth of the Fraser<br />

River, where we’d been tipped off to Southern<br />

Resident Killer Whale sightings. Notably,<br />

80 to 90 percent of the Chinook salmon the<br />

Southern Resident Killer Whales consume<br />

in inland waters come from the Fraser River<br />

and its tributaries. There we found the J pod<br />

spread across a vast area, their mighty dorsal<br />

fins and polished black marble backs surfacing<br />

to share their location. Some orcas, including<br />

Oreo, mother to Cookie and DoubleStuf, were<br />

surfing the rolling waves of an oil tanker passing<br />

by, creating splash after splash. Others were<br />

swimming in small groups, exhibiting playful<br />

behavior, such as tail-slapping, pec-slapping,<br />

spy-hopping and breaching. The photo-ops<br />

were endless. At one point, we saw a mother roll<br />

on her back and raise a paddle-shaped pec fin<br />

to nurse her calf. We even spotted Polaris and<br />

her calf, Dipper, both of whose health had been<br />

called into recent speculation. Mama and son<br />

seemed to be faring okay. Then, curiosity got<br />

the best of one orca, who swam up alongside<br />

our boat. With majestic snow-capped Mount<br />

Baker looming in the background and a full<br />

moon rising, the J pod looked spectacular.<br />

If you haven’t spent time with orcas in the<br />

wild, there’s nothing like it. Audible b<strong>low</strong>s or<br />

the sound of an 8,000-pound male hitting the<br />

water is amazing. If you’re short on time, you<br />

can always take the forty-five minute Kenmore<br />

Air sea plane from Seattle’s Lake Union to<br />

Friday Harbor to go whale watching with San<br />

Juan Safaris. The three-hour tour is available<br />

from April through October.<br />


EAT<br />

Cask and Schooner<br />

Public House & Restaurant<br />

caskandschooner.com<br />

Blackfish Bistro & Martini Bar<br />

blackfishbistrosanjuan.com<br />

Backdoor Kitchen<br />

backdoorkitchen.com<br />

STAY<br />

Bird Rock Inn<br />

birdrockhotel.com<br />

Snug Harbor Resort<br />

snug<strong>res</strong>ort.com<br />

San Juan County Park<br />

sanjuanco.com<br />

PLAY<br />

The Whale Museum<br />

whalemuseum.org<br />

Outdoor Odysseys<br />

outdoorodysseys.com<br />

Hike Young Hill<br />

wta.org<br />

San Juan Island Distillery<br />

sanjuanislanddistillery.com<br />

Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />

sanjuanislandwhalewatch.com<br />

Clipper Vacations<br />

clippervacations.com<br />

Schooners North<br />

sanjuansailcharter.com<br />

Sea Quest Expeditions<br />

sea-quest-kayak.com<br />

98 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

Call for Seasonal Specials!<br />

1-800-562-4862 thepolynesian.com<br />

Oceanfront Rooms & Suites<br />

Continental Breakfast<br />

Indoor Pool • Spa • Game Room<br />

Private Park • Pet-Friendly Rooms<br />

Mariah’s Restaurant, on site.<br />


northwest destination<br />

Mt. Schweitzer and Sandpoint, Idaho<br />

Small town, big mountain, powder galore<br />

written by Alison Highberger<br />

Photography courtesy of Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />

FOR MOST SKIERS, SUN VALLEY is synonymous<br />

with Idaho skiing. Two hours northeast of<br />

Spokane, Schweitzer Mountain Resort in<br />

Idaho’s panhandle is bigger by a third and closer<br />

to many <strong>res</strong>idents in the Pacific Northwest.<br />

Schweitzer’s privately owned 2,900 skiable<br />

ac<strong>res</strong> unfold in the Selkirks near Sandpoint,<br />

Idaho, a city of 7,500 that was voted the<br />

most beautiful small town in America by USA<br />

Today and Rand McNally five years ago. The<br />

combination of big mountain and small town<br />

makes it a spectacular place to enjoy a winter<br />

weekend getaway.<br />

Schweitzer’s mountaintop village, located<br />

near the ten lifts and tows for its ninety-two<br />

runs and 30 kilometers of Nordic ski trails,<br />

offers ski-in, ski-out lodging, <strong>res</strong>taurants, shops<br />

and a spa. With an average of 300 inches of<br />

snow each winter, there’s also snowboarding,<br />

tubing, snowshoeing, fat-tire snow-biking,<br />

snowmobiling and heli skiing.<br />

A skier dives into f<strong>res</strong>h powder at Mt. Schweitzer.<br />

100 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

northwest destination<br />

A skier enjoys the 2,900 ac<strong>res</strong> of skiable terrain at Schweitzer Mountain Resort.<br />

“We’re lucky because of the way the<br />

weather comes in from the west,” said Dig<br />

Chrismer, Schweitzer marketing manager.<br />

“Our snow is definitely a lighter consistency.<br />

A lot of our guests who ski here after skiing<br />

near Seattle are very happy.”<br />

In mid-December, Schweitzer debuted a<br />

new lodge at the 6,400-foot summit, giving<br />

skiers, snowboarders and non-skiers a high<br />

altitude spot to eat and relax. The Great<br />

Escape Quad lift will offer quick access<br />

to the new lodge and expansive views of<br />

the Selkirk and Cabinet mountain ranges.<br />

The 43-mile-long Lake Pend Oreille is in<br />

the distant valley (pronounced “Pond-or-<br />

RAY” from the French for “hanging ear”<br />

or “earring”). It’s the fifth deepest lake in<br />

the United States, and was home to the<br />

Kalispel, Kootenai and Coeur d’Alene<br />

tribes who first inhabited this region.<br />

Sandpoint, 12 miles away, offers more<br />

options for lodging. It’s a walkable, turnof-the<br />

century downtown, with a history of<br />

logging and mining. In the late 1880s the<br />

Great Northern Railroad spurred its growth.<br />

Sandpoint’s collection of galleries and<br />

boutique shops can keep non-skiers busy for<br />

the weekend.<br />

A 6-foot wooden moose greets visitors at<br />

Northwest Handmade Furniture & Gallery on<br />

the main drag, North First Street, which has<br />

shops that sell rustic furniture and handmade<br />

arts and crafts. Ski shops stock winter clothing<br />

or gear. The twenty-year-old Pend d’Oreille<br />

Winery has a tasting room in town with pours<br />

of their all-Idaho-made chardonnay.<br />

Sandpoint has a handful of <strong>res</strong>taurants<br />

that range from Thai and sushi to Mexican<br />

and Italian. Decade-old Mick Duff’s Brewing<br />

Company serves beer cheese soup year-round,<br />

made from its own Knot Tree Porter. This<br />

brewery is also known for homemade root beer<br />

floats. Trinity at City Beach flaunts its pecancrusted<br />

chicken salad tossed with maplechipotle<br />

vinaigrette, accompanied by views of<br />

the lake and mountains. Panhandle Cone and<br />

Coffee’s house-made ice cream flavors include<br />

Pumpkin Pie and Honey Chai Praline.<br />

For a romantic evening or a novelty for<br />

the kids, book a horse-drawn sleigh at<br />

Western Pleasure Guest Ranch, 26 miles<br />

from Schweitzer. A half-hour ride with<br />

views of the Selkirk Range is warmed with<br />

hot chocolate and popcorn by the fire at the<br />

ranch’s rustic lodge.<br />

The combination of Schweitzer Mountain<br />

and Sandpoint bring together winter fun in<br />

the northern Selkirks and small town charm<br />

for an engaging winter vacation itinerary.<br />



Trinity at City Beach<br />

trinityatcitybeach.com<br />

Mick Duff’s Brewing Company<br />

mickduffs.com<br />

Pend d’Oreille Winery<br />

powine.com<br />

Panhandle Cone & Coffee<br />

panhandleconeandcoffee.com<br />

Chimney Rock Grill<br />

schweitzer.com/dining/chimey-rock-grill<br />

Gourmandie<br />

schweitzer.com/dining/gourmandie<br />


Best Western Edgewater Resort<br />

sandpointhotels.com<br />

Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />

Selkirk Lodge & White Pine Lodge<br />

schweitzer.com<br />

Western Pleasure Guest Ranch<br />

westernpleasureranch.com<br />


Ski and Snowboard<br />

Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />

schweitzer.com<br />

Sandpoint Winter Carnival<br />

(<strong>Feb</strong> 10-21)<br />

sandpointwintercarnival.com<br />

Snowshoe at Priest Lake<br />

priestlake.org<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 101




Rick Small | Woodward Canyon Winery<br />

It takes more than terroir and climate to make great wine. Walla Walla is home<br />

to dozens of family-run wineries dedicated to creating some of the world’s finest,<br />

earning our place in Wine Enthusiast’s “2014 Ten Best Wine Travel Destinations”.<br />

VisitWallaWalla.com<br />

Fly from Walla Walla and check your first case of wine for free! TasteAndTote.com

<strong>1889</strong> MAPPED<br />

The points of inte<strong>res</strong>t be<strong>low</strong> are culled from<br />

stories and events in this edition of <strong>1889</strong>.<br />

Oroville<br />

Forks<br />

Friday Harbor<br />

Port Angeles Coupeville<br />

Port<br />

Townsend<br />

Bellingham<br />

Mount Vernon<br />

Lakewood<br />

Marysville<br />

Everett<br />

Okanogan<br />

Republic<br />

Colville<br />

Newport<br />

Aberdeen<br />

South<br />

Bend<br />

Shelton<br />

Montesano<br />

Port Orchard<br />

Cathlamet<br />

Longview<br />

Olympia<br />

Chehalis<br />

Kelso<br />

Seattle<br />

Bellevue<br />

Renton<br />

Kent<br />

Federal Way<br />

Tacoma<br />

Ellensburg<br />

Yakima<br />

Waterville<br />

Wenatchee<br />

Ephrata<br />

Prosser<br />

Richland<br />

Pasco<br />

Wilbur<br />

Kennewick<br />

Ritzville<br />

Dayton<br />

Walla<br />

Walla<br />

Davenport<br />

Spokane<br />

Colfax<br />

Pomeroy<br />

Asotin<br />

Vancouver<br />

Stevenson<br />

Goldendale<br />

Live<br />

Think<br />

Explore<br />

20<br />

WOW Chocolates<br />

52<br />

Arzeda Corporation<br />

84<br />

Hisey Park<br />

21<br />

Washington State History Museum<br />

54<br />

Swiss Hotel Leavenworth<br />

86<br />

Snoqualmie Pass<br />

28<br />

Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant<br />

56<br />

University of Washington<br />

92<br />

Hotel Monaco<br />

30<br />

Country Boy’s BBQ<br />

58<br />

Mt. Baker Ski Patrol<br />

96<br />

Lime Kiln Point State Park<br />

32<br />

Hama Hama Company<br />

60<br />

Salaam Cultural Museum<br />

100 Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />

Idaho<br />

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 103

Until Next Time<br />

My Mother’s Gift<br />

written by Velda R. Wilson<br />


sealed with duct tape so old the edges had become brittle, browned<br />

and cracked. More duct tape covered the suitcase I recognized as<br />

belonging to my grandmother. I had found them buried deep in the<br />

back of my mother’s closet as I packed up her tiny apartment after<br />

she lost her battle with cancer in 2009.<br />

She had always hinted she had some “family stuff,” just a few old<br />

photos, and a couple of things that had belonged to her grandmother,<br />

Maye. What was in those dusty old liquor boxes and that faded green<br />

suitcase from the ’60s took my breath away. Hundreds of sepiatoned<br />

photographs of men, women and children. They were holding<br />

babies, logging and farming, working and eating lunch in the apple<br />

orchards of Wenatchee. Huge groups of people all standing in front<br />

of churches, schools and farmhouses. A lot of these photographs<br />

bore the same handwriting, notating names, places, and dates as<br />

early as 1908. There were journals stamped with years dating back to<br />

the 1930s, some still with glints of gold embossing on their covers.<br />

A newspaper clipping told of how Mrs. Laura Bolyard, the first<br />

“Hello” girl in the Lake Chelan area, had moved to Monroe to be<br />

closer to her daughter, Mrs. Maye Eighme, my great-grandmother.<br />

The article told of how Laura had come in 1900 as Henry’s bride<br />

and “operated the first switchboard after her husband established<br />

FROM LEFT Maye Ellen and Earl Eighme, circa<br />

1919. Sharon Rose Barrow. Velda Mae Eighme.<br />

the first phone service, a line from Chelan Landing to Chelan that<br />

was later extended to Union Valley, and included twenty customers.”<br />

I read further and found it was Henry who had “named Union<br />

Valley, was instrumental in getting the first post office, Hobson, and<br />

later worked as a contractor and mason.” Suffering the loss of their<br />

2½-year-old daughter, Thirsa, on May 26, 1907, they still managed to<br />

have twelve children survive them, with Henry passing first in 1952<br />

and Laura in 1968, shortly before I was born.<br />

Henry’s mother and father, Holtsberry and Anne Bolyard,<br />

formerly of West Virginia, had been among the first homesteaders<br />

the year after Washington gained statehood. Listing his death as<br />

December 24, 1932, the obituary on findagrave.com for “Holtsberry<br />

Creed Bolyard, pioneer” stated, “The pall bearers, all pioneers of this<br />

section were. Thom. Pattison, Elmer Boyd, C. C. Campbell, Don C.<br />

Mathers, R. N. Smith and A. S. Province.”<br />

When I opened those old boxes and that green suitcase from the<br />

’60s, I sat back on my heels in amazement. Her final gift had not<br />

only made sure to give me all the clues I needed to find more family<br />

so I wouldn’t be alone after her death, but gave me the project of a<br />

lifetime organizing the 20 or so pounds of family history that, as it<br />

turns out, was also a part of Washington’s history, too.<br />

Thanks, Mama, for the best gift ever.<br />

104 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017

This is Our<br />

Happy Hour<br />


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