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TRIP PLANNER<br />
SAN JUAN ISLAND<br />
pg. 94<br />
Washington’s<br />
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Behind-the-Scenes<br />
Whiskey<br />
Nordic Ski<br />
Adventu<strong>res</strong><br />
Washi<br />
ngton’ s Magazine<br />
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Aw, Shucks!<br />
photography by Cameron Zegers<br />
Hama Hama Company in Lilliwaup is a fifth-generation, familyrun<br />
shellfish farm. The company, with beds on a cold river in the<br />
Olympic Peninsula, prizes sustainability and grows two varieties<br />
of oysters. Oh, and they’re delicious.<br />
Hama Hama employee Mitch McKasson shucks an<br />
oyster in front of a mountain of shells.
Scenes from Hama Hama Company’s oyster farm.
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FEATURES<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 • volume 1<br />
62<br />
Last Man on Protection Island<br />
When an islet in the Strait of Juan de Fuca turned<br />
into a wildlife refuge, one man stayed.<br />
written by Dieter Loibner<br />
Jackie Dodd<br />
69<br />
Top 5 Romantic Getaways<br />
These Washington gems are sure to heat things<br />
up with your sweetie.<br />
written by Charyn Pfeuffer<br />
76<br />
Washington’s Whiskey<br />
Behind the scenes at three of Washington’s<br />
whiskey distilleries.<br />
photography by Jackie Dodd<br />
A glass of whiskey at Westland Distillery.
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<strong>Feb</strong>ruary | <strong>March</strong> • volume 1<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 • volume 1<br />
28<br />
46<br />
Wanata (the Charger), Grand Chief of The Sioux by<br />
Charles Bird King<br />
TRIP PLANNER<br />
SAN JUAN ISLAND<br />
pg. 94<br />
Washi<br />
ington’<br />
s Magazine<br />
Romance<br />
Washington<br />
Style<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Washington’s<br />
Best Barbeque<br />
Behind-the-Scenes<br />
Whiskey<br />
Nordic Ski<br />
Adventu<strong>res</strong><br />
LIVE THINK EXPLORE WASHINGTON<br />
COVER<br />
What makes Washington special?<br />
illustrated by Michael Williamson<br />
94<br />
14 Editor’s Letter<br />
16 <strong>1889</strong> Online<br />
103 Map of Washington<br />
104 Until Next Time<br />
Ben Lindbloom<br />
Robin Jacobson<br />
LIVE<br />
20 SAY WA?<br />
Declare your Washington pride with local food, art and events that<br />
celebrate this great state.<br />
26 FOOD + DRINK<br />
Our Beervana columnist gives us the inside scoop on crowlers. Track<br />
down the foods you’re craving, from Pullman to Walla Walla, and find the<br />
best barbeque across the state.<br />
32 HOME + DESIGN<br />
Washington’s oyster bounty is nowhere more apparent than at<br />
Hama Hama Company in Lilliwaup. Check out two rebooted Midcentury<br />
modern homes and products to add a little flair to your<br />
own home.<br />
44 MIND + BODY<br />
Rookie sensation Trevor Kennedy, of the Indoor Football League’s<br />
Spokane Empire, talks returning from injury.<br />
46 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE<br />
How a German couple’s love affair with the American West brought<br />
a large collection of Western art to the Tacoma Art Museum.<br />
THINK<br />
52 STARTUP<br />
Arzeda wants to use nature’s chemistry and biology to find<br />
technological improvements that will feed the world.<br />
54 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />
A look at hotels under construction in Leavenworth, Redmond<br />
and Seattle.<br />
56 WHAT I’M WORKING ON<br />
A University of Washington professor is developing insect-sized<br />
robots that could have a variety of applications.<br />
58 MY WORKSPACE<br />
Mt. Baker’s veteran ski patroller talks short commutes and<br />
danger—from avalanches to hungry pine marten.<br />
60 GAME CHANGER<br />
Salaam Cultural Museum is making a measurable difference to<br />
Syrian refugees and the places that welcome them.<br />
EXPLORE<br />
84 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT<br />
Small-town kitsch is in full effect in Granger, where townspeople<br />
come together each year to build a new dinosaur.<br />
86 ADVENTURES<br />
Three top spots for Nordic skiing within a day’s drive—from<br />
Snoqualmie to Ketchum to Whistler.<br />
92 LODGING<br />
The Hotel Monaco in Seattle combines stellar location with fun perks.<br />
94 TRIP PLANNER<br />
Get your whale-watching (and sea lion-watching and seal-watching<br />
and porpoise-watching) fix with a trip to San Juan Island.<br />
100 NORTHWEST DESTINATION<br />
Schweitzer Mountain Resort and nearby Sandpoint, Idaho offer<br />
big skiing and small-town flair.
Reservations ::: 800.553.8225<br />
Take a Tour ::: campbells<strong>res</strong>ort.com<br />
A tradition of hospitality on Lake Chelan.
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
JACKIE DODD<br />
KEVIN LIGHT<br />
CORINNE WHITING<br />
CAMERON ZEGERS<br />
I’ve been writing about beer<br />
Having the opportunity to<br />
My wanderlust, curiosity<br />
I am a native Pacific<br />
for a while now, and let’s be<br />
photograph on Protection<br />
and freelance writing career<br />
Northwesterner, a photographer<br />
honest—it never gets old. Not<br />
Island just off Port Angeles<br />
frequently take me all over<br />
and an environmentalist.<br />
just the fact that my job is to<br />
came from a chance meeting<br />
the globe, but I feel extremely<br />
Among ample opportunities to<br />
drink beer and write about<br />
with the Island’s last remaining<br />
lucky to have called the PNW<br />
travel around the world doing<br />
it, but because the industry<br />
<strong>res</strong>ident, Marty Bluewater.<br />
home for more than five years.<br />
what I love, the PNW and its<br />
is evolving so quickly. It’s a<br />
As we approached the dock<br />
In this stunning corner of our<br />
abundant beauty always draw<br />
fascinating world where science<br />
soaked in bird poop Marty told<br />
country, I have learned to love<br />
me back. I love spending time<br />
and art merge into something<br />
me I would never see a place<br />
hiking, camping, lattes, that<br />
photographing the people,<br />
that you can drink with friends.<br />
like this again anywhere in the<br />
laid-back West Coast vibe and,<br />
places and culture that make the<br />
It’s an incredible community<br />
world. I didn’t believe him at<br />
of course, local specialties—like<br />
PNW what it is; even though I<br />
that I’ll never tire of sharing.<br />
first, but after he jumpstarted<br />
oysters—too!<br />
am a vegetarian and allergic to<br />
“Beervana,”<br />
his old Chevy van and began<br />
“Hama Hama’s Oyster Bounty,”<br />
shellfish, the ecological impact<br />
(p. 26)<br />
driving up the steep dirt road,<br />
(p. 32)<br />
and the farm-to-table culture of<br />
he was absolutely right.<br />
Hama Hama is something unique<br />
“The Last Man On Protection<br />
to our wonderful state.<br />
Island,”<br />
“Hama Hama’s Oyster Bounty,”<br />
(p. 62)<br />
(p. 4 and 32)
EDITOR Kevin Max<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
CREATIVE LEAD<br />
DESIGN<br />
SALES + MARKETING<br />
WEB EDITOR<br />
SOCIAL MEDIA<br />
OFFICE MANAGER<br />
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES<br />
BEERVANA COLUMNIST<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Sheila G. Miller<br />
Michael Williamson<br />
Linda Donahue<br />
Brittney Hale<br />
Lindsay McWilliams<br />
Isaac Peterson<br />
Cindy Miskowiec<br />
Ashley Davis<br />
Kelly Hervey<br />
Jenny Kamprath<br />
Sandra King<br />
Jean Picha-Parker<br />
Deb Steiger<br />
Jackie Dodd<br />
Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Alison Highberger, Julie Lee,<br />
Dieter Loibner, Tricia Louvar, Charyn Pfeuffer,<br />
Jean Picha-Parker, Corinne Whiting<br />
Jackie Dodd, Grant Gunderson, Kevin Light, Cameron Zegers<br />
Statehood Media<br />
70 SW Century Dr.<br />
Suite 100-218<br />
Bend, Oregon 97702<br />
541.728.2764<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/subscribe<br />
@<strong>1889</strong>washington<br />
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photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the exp<strong>res</strong>s written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs<br />
appearing in <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the exp<strong>res</strong>s written Consent of the publisher. <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s<br />
Magazine and Statehood Media are not <strong>res</strong>ponsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions exp<strong>res</strong>sed in these artiCles are not<br />
neCessarily those of <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.<br />
Statehood Media sets high standards to ensure fo<strong>res</strong>try is praCtiCed in an environmentally <strong>res</strong>ponsible, soCially benefiCial and eConomiCally viable way. This<br />
issue of <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine was printed by Quad Graphics on reCyCled paper using inks with a soy base. Our printer is a Certified member of<br />
the Fo<strong>res</strong>try Stewardship CounCil (FSC) and the Sustainable Fo<strong>res</strong>try Initiative (SFI), and meets or exCeeds all federal ResourCe Conservation ReCovery ACt<br />
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FROM THE<br />
EDITOR<br />
WELCOME TO THE premier issue of <strong>1889</strong><br />
Washington’s Magazine.<br />
The year <strong>1889</strong> harkens back to when Washington<br />
earned its statehood. That year proved difficult for<br />
Washingtonians. A state-admissions convention met<br />
in Ellensburg in January to set in motion the plan<br />
to join these here United States. That June, tragedy<br />
struck.<br />
Smoke could be seen as far away as Tacoma when<br />
the Great Fire of Seattle set twenty-five blocks of<br />
downtown Seattle ablaze. Poor John Back, an assistant<br />
working in Victor Clairmont’s woodworking shop at<br />
what is now First and Madison avenues, scrambled<br />
to put out the fire as the glue he was heating boiled<br />
over and engulfed turpentine and wood chips across<br />
the floor.<br />
The combination of a dry spell and an all-volunteer firefighting<br />
force was powerless as the raging fire consumed<br />
the wooden buildings. Remarkably, Seattleites wasted no<br />
time mourning but immediately began to rebuild, this<br />
time with brick. A professional fire force was established<br />
and Seattle was on her way.<br />
On November 11, <strong>1889</strong>, Washingtonians had something<br />
to celebrate in Olympia and farther afield as Washington<br />
became the 42nd state of the United States of America.<br />
Our people at Statehood Media have been laying the<br />
groundwork for <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine for nearly a<br />
year now by working with local writers and photographers,<br />
visiting regions around the state and uncovering the<br />
people, places and issues that characterize the state. We<br />
selected Washington for her beauty, industry, innovation<br />
and pioneering spirit—a dominant trait for those of us<br />
who came to the Pacific Northwest.<br />
Our mission at <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine is to Live,<br />
Think and Explore our way across the state. We’re happy to<br />
report that Washington holds countless inspirational subjects<br />
for this and future issues. We encounter emerging markets,<br />
big ideas, entrepreneurs, farm-trepreneurs, things elegant<br />
and rustic, whiskey, wine, hops and her offspring—all of this<br />
set in a stunningly diverse ecosystem. In each issue, we bring<br />
stories of not just Seattle, not just the coast, but the hidden<br />
gems and remarkable people from the North Cascades to<br />
Yakima Valley, Bellingham to Walla Walla.<br />
Read for yourself the stories of fifth-generation Hama<br />
Hama oyster farmers and how to prepare the food for your<br />
own table; the passion behind Arzeda, a startup working<br />
to solve world hunger through new proteins; the best<br />
trails to Nordic ski; one marine naturalist’s trip to San Juan<br />
Island; our ideas for your long-overdue romantic getaway<br />
and one of the world’s largest collections of art from the<br />
American West.<br />
Let us know what you think. Share your stories and<br />
ideas with us online (<strong>1889</strong>mag.com), in social media and<br />
in print.<br />
We are honored and humbled to be a part of the<br />
Evergreen State. We hope you’ll share this journey with<br />
us. Cheers!
FORMED OVER THOUSANDS OF YEARS.<br />
A SHORT HOP FROM PORTLAND.<br />
Learn more about Portage Glacier and<br />
59 others near Anchorage.<br />
VisitAnchorage.net | 907.257.2363
<strong>1889</strong> ONLINE<br />
More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com | #<strong>1889</strong>washington | @<strong>1889</strong>washington<br />
WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS<br />
Have a photo that captu<strong>res</strong><br />
your Washington experience?<br />
Share it with us by filling out the<br />
Washington: In Focus form on<br />
our website. If chosen, you’ll be<br />
published here.<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/in-focus<br />
photo by Ben McBee<br />
The lush and damp Olympic National Park.<br />
RESORT GETAWAY<br />
Win a getaway for two at Northern<br />
Quest Casino & Resort in Spokane,<br />
Washington. One winner will receive<br />
one night‘s stay at the <strong>res</strong>ort, golf at<br />
the Kalispel Golf and Country Club,<br />
gift cards for lunch, dinner and drinks<br />
at on-site <strong>res</strong>taurants, along with<br />
spa and casino credits. Contest runs<br />
<strong>Feb</strong>ruary 1-31, 2017.<br />
STILL ROCKIN’<br />
Jam out to a curated playlist of<br />
songs by our featured musician,<br />
Peter Rivera. Scan the QR Code to<br />
listen on Spotify.<br />
ENTER ONLINE:<br />
<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/northernquest<br />
16 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
PUT THE BABYSITTER<br />
ON RETAINER.<br />
Once you’re here, you’ll find plenty of reasons not to leave.<br />
There’s 24/7 Vegas-style gaming, fine dining at Masse<strong>low</strong>’s Steakhouse<br />
and top-shelf indulgences at Legends of Fire. We even offer access to one<br />
of Spokane’s most historic golf courses – Kalispel Golf and Country Club.<br />
Not to mention our world-class day spa and luxury rooms, so you can <strong>res</strong>t<br />
up and do it all over again tomorrow.<br />
NORTHERNQUEST.COM | 877.871.6772 | SPOKANE, WA
EXACTLYLIKENOTHINGELSE
Photo courtesy of Lisa Staton<br />
SAY WA? 20<br />
FOOD + DRINK 26<br />
HOME + DESIGN 32<br />
MIND + BODY 44<br />
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 46<br />
(pg. 38)<br />
A modern home in Clyde Hill gets a Scandinavian makeover.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19
say wa?<br />
Tidbits & To-dos<br />
Bombsheller Leggings<br />
Leggings are hitting their peak this decade<br />
as a more comfortable step-in for traditional<br />
pants. Bombsheller in Seattle takes leggings<br />
to the next level with splashy designs. Think<br />
maps, florals, optical illusions and comic<br />
book characters—tightly fitted to your legs.<br />
shop.bombsheller.com<br />
A Revolution You Can Dance To!<br />
Learn how indie music in the Pacific Northwest<br />
has made a national and global impact at the<br />
Washington State History Museum’s new<br />
exhibit, “A Revolution You Can Dance To!<br />
Indie Music in the NW.” The exhibit highlights<br />
local bands such as Pearl Jam, Nirvana and<br />
Bikini Kill, which created their own Northwest<br />
subculture through their music and efforts<br />
for social change.<br />
washingtonhistory.org<br />
WOW Your Loved One<br />
Chocolate-covered maraschino cherries are old<br />
news. This Valentine’s Day, bring something more<br />
creative to your date with WOW Chocolates<br />
from Bellevue. These sassy, colorful bonbons<br />
come in shapes of hearts and lips in a variety of<br />
flavors, hand-painted for your sweetie (or you).<br />
wowchocolates.com<br />
20 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
say wa?<br />
Run in Your Undies<br />
Put on your red, heart-covered tighty-whities<br />
and join thousands of other scantily clad friends<br />
for Cupid’s Undie Run on <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 11. This 1-mile<br />
fun run in downtown Seattle is more about the<br />
open bar and costumes than the running, and all<br />
proceeds from the event benefit the Children’s<br />
Tumor Foundation.<br />
cupidsundierun.org<br />
Be At Home Wherever You Are<br />
Tacoma couple Tim and April Norris create<br />
their designs around the idea that landforms<br />
such as lakes and mountains have the power<br />
of familiarity, yet continuously call us to an<br />
unknown adventure. Their artful items for<br />
the home include topographical maps and<br />
polygonal prints of Mount Rainier, Mount<br />
Baker and Mount Adams.<br />
timplusapril.com<br />
Honoring Forefathers at<br />
National Parks<br />
Honor U.S. p<strong>res</strong>idents who set aside land for<br />
our national parks by exploring them—for free!<br />
On P<strong>res</strong>idents Day, <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 20, Mount Rainier<br />
National Park and Olympic National Park will be<br />
fee-free, with no cost for entrance or parking.<br />
nps.gov<br />
mark your<br />
CALENDAR<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21
say wa?<br />
Jack Mongan<br />
Musician<br />
Rivera (still) Rocks<br />
Don’t hold your applause<br />
written by Blythe Thimsen<br />
APPLAUSE. This is what Peter Rivera enjoys most about<br />
performing. After thirty years of rocking out as the<br />
original drummer and lead vocalist for 1970s band Rare<br />
Earth and with hits such as “Get Ready” and “I Just Want<br />
to Celebrate,” all it takes is a little noise. “We’d all love to<br />
be cheered, to have applause,” he said.<br />
Applause—or even performing—is not guaranteed in<br />
today’s saturated music industry. “There’s less meat on<br />
the carcass, and more people trying to feed on it,” said<br />
Rivera, f<strong>res</strong>h from gigs in Tennessee, Georgia, Florida<br />
and Massachusetts.<br />
What’s his secret? “I’m not all ego-ed up. I’m just a<br />
really good drummer and singer, and I like doing it,” he<br />
said. “It’s all I ever wanted to do, even now. When I go<br />
out on stage, it’s my ass, and I gotta be on.”<br />
Peter Rivera plays the drums.<br />
22 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
ORDER<br />
YOUR FREE<br />
GUIDE!<br />
OPEN UP to Snohomish County. Just 30 minutes north<br />
of Seattle, there’s a treasure trove of adventure waiting for you to discover.
say wa?<br />
Bibliophile<br />
Writing for Kids<br />
(and Their Gatekeepers)<br />
Award-winning children’s author Deborah Underwood<br />
says kids books must have it all—in 500 words or less<br />
interviewed by Sheila G. Miller<br />
DEBORAH UNDERWOOD’S CHARACTERS are no strangers to trouble.<br />
But then, some of them are cats and mice. Others are fairy-tale villains.<br />
Underwood draws inspiration from everywhere, and trouble finds<br />
her. Born and raised in Walla Walla, her recent book Here Comes The<br />
Tooth Fairy Cat won a Washington State Book Award for the earlyreaders<br />
category. She has ten picture books coming out in the next<br />
several years, including Here Comes Teacher Cat next summer, in which<br />
Cat needs to be a substitute teacher for a day; Super Saurus Saves<br />
Kindergarten, , illustrated by Ned Young, out next year; and a few pieces<br />
in a middle-grade humor anthology, Funny Girl, out next May.<br />
Deborah Underwood’s upcoming book featu<strong>res</strong> a<br />
substitute teacher cat.<br />
Photo courtesy of Penguin Young Readers and illustrations © Claudia Rueda<br />
You started out writing screenplays—<br />
what changed?<br />
After I graduated from college, I tried all<br />
kinds of writing. I sold a few magazine<br />
articles and some greeting cards. I wrote<br />
puzzles for Dell Puzzle Magazines for<br />
many years. I even wrote a terrible romance<br />
novel—it didn’t sell, for good reason!<br />
Then in 1999, my sister in Scotland had<br />
a baby. I thought writing picture books<br />
would be a way to connect with my niece<br />
across all the miles that separated us.<br />
Mainly I write for kids because<br />
I’ve always loved children’s books. In<br />
retrospect, it seems silly that it took so<br />
long for me to figure out I should write<br />
for kids. I suspect most grown-ups don’t<br />
listen to Paddington Bear audiobooks —<br />
that should have tipped me off!<br />
A lot of people assume that writing for<br />
kids is easier than writing an adult novel.<br />
What do you think?<br />
People think picture books are easy to<br />
write because they’re short. But a picture<br />
book writer needs to create compelling<br />
characters, construct a solid plot with<br />
conflict, escalation, and <strong>res</strong>olution,<br />
and evoke an emotional <strong>res</strong>ponse in<br />
the reader—and she has to do it in 500<br />
words. One of my books is only eighty<br />
words long. It’s definitely not easy!<br />
An inte<strong>res</strong>ting thing about picture<br />
books is that you’re writing for kids,<br />
but a 5-year-old doesn’t march into<br />
a bookstore alone to buy a book. It’s<br />
grown-ups who do the purchasing. So<br />
a book must—most importantly—bring<br />
joy to a young person, but it also needs to<br />
appeal to gatekeepers (parents, teachers,<br />
and librarians), because that’s how it will<br />
get into a child’s hands.<br />
How do you work with illustrators?<br />
Authors and illustrators usually don’t work<br />
together. The writer sells a manuscript to<br />
a publisher, and the publisher chooses the<br />
artist. The author and illustrator typically<br />
don’t communicate directly while the book is<br />
in process, because the illustrator needs the<br />
freedom to make the story his or her own.<br />
But the Cat books rely heavily on<br />
illustrations to tell the story. When I write the<br />
books, I do my own sketches to show Cat’s<br />
signs and exp<strong>res</strong>sions. As a rule, an author<br />
would never send sketches to an editor<br />
unless she was an author/illustrator—that’s a<br />
substantial breach of publishing etiquette.<br />
My agent decided my drawings were the<br />
best way to get the idea of the book across.<br />
We were also fortunate that the wonderful<br />
illustrator, Claudia Rueda, was open to<br />
working this way.<br />
How do you come up with your stories<br />
and flesh them out?<br />
Every story is different. The Cat books<br />
started because I couldn’t think of an idea.<br />
My cat, Bella, was sitting on my bed in front<br />
of me, so I sketched a cat while I waited for<br />
inspiration. The cat looked grumpy, so I<br />
asked why. The cat answered by holding up<br />
a sign, and the first Cat book was born.<br />
I got the idea for The Quiet Book while<br />
waiting for a classical guitar concert to<br />
start. My 2018 book Monster and Mouse<br />
was inspired by a sketch an artist friend<br />
posted on Facebook. Interstellar Cinderella<br />
began with the title.<br />
For each book, my general process is<br />
to do several drafts on my own, then take<br />
the manuscript to my critique groups for<br />
more input before I revise it again (and<br />
again) and send it to my agent. If the book<br />
sells, there are more revisions once an<br />
editor is involved.<br />
24 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
food + drink<br />
Cocktail Card<br />
recipe by Price Gledhill from SOUTH in<br />
Leavenworth and Wenatchee<br />
Beervana<br />
Crowlers are game changers<br />
written and photographed by Jackie Dodd<br />
The SOUTH Stinger<br />
1¼ ounces 100 percent agave Exotico<br />
Blanco tequila<br />
3 ounces mix*<br />
2 to 3 rings of jalapeño<br />
Pinch of cilantro<br />
Muddle cilantro and jalapeño in a mixing<br />
glass. Add ice and remaining ingredients.<br />
Shake and pour into a bucket.<br />
*Mix:<br />
1 part lemon juice<br />
1 part lime juice<br />
¾ parts water<br />
2 parts simple syrup<br />
A bartender fills a crowler with Russell Street IPA.<br />
IN THE HEAT OF THE MOMENT, I pretended I knew what she was<br />
talking about. I work in the beer industry, I should know these things.<br />
It was, after all, the first time I’d ever heard the term “crowler.” As a<br />
student of beer, I’m used to growlers as the go-to container for to-go<br />
beer. Possibly a Hydro Flask here and there, and a pony keg for those<br />
with beer-dispensing systems in their places of <strong>res</strong>idence, but the word<br />
“crowler” had no place to <strong>res</strong>t in my brain. Did she mean growler? “It’s<br />
a can-growler,” she explained. “We fill a 32-ounce aluminum can with<br />
whatever you want, and then we machine-seal the lid with this antiquelooking<br />
p<strong>res</strong>s thing.” Why don’t I know about these? She filled one up<br />
for me, overf<strong>low</strong>ing with the last of the saison keg about to b<strong>low</strong> in<br />
favor of the summer ale she was preparing to tap. This was nearly a<br />
year ago. In the months since, I’ve been the one pronouncing growler<br />
with a “c” and navigating puzzled sta<strong>res</strong> from beer people. “It’s a cangrowler.”<br />
I tell them, “They fill a 32-ounce can with whatever you want,<br />
and then they machine-seal the lid on with an antique-looking p<strong>res</strong>s<br />
thing.” I also tell them about how much more sense the crowler makes<br />
than the traditional/clunky/heavy/fragile growler. “It’s so much easier to<br />
transport! You can even ship them! They last weeks, as opposed to a<br />
growler that only gives you a few days!” It makes up for the ignorance<br />
I felt that first day, learning about this brilliant new beer-packaging<br />
invention from the woman behind the bar at a taproom in Bellevue.<br />
26 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />
MORE ONLINE Find a crowler filling station near you at <strong>1889</strong>mag.com/crowler
food + drink<br />
CRAVINGS<br />
Ben Lindbloom<br />
STEAK<br />
Craving an old-school steak with classic tuxedoed service?<br />
Metropolitan Grill delivers. A venerable Seattle institution<br />
with Frank Sinatra-era décor, paradisiacal steaks and a sixtyfoot<br />
bar, Metropolitan Grill caters to a well-heeled crowd<br />
with an appetite for refined dining. The s<strong>low</strong>-roasted prime<br />
rib is melt-in-your-mouth tender and the American Wagyu<br />
for two carved tableside, with a roasted scampi add-on,<br />
is recommended. Also recommended: leaving diets and<br />
budgets behind.<br />
820 SECOND AVE.<br />
SEATTLE<br />
themetropolitangrill.com<br />
SEAFOOD<br />
In the heart of one of the best wine regions in the<br />
country, if not the world, are some fabulous, locally<br />
purveying, artisan-inspired <strong>res</strong>taurants. Whitehouse-<br />
Crawford Restaurant is a unique gem in Walla Walla<br />
that transports guests to fine dining, wine country<br />
style. The six-course tasting menu offers a sampling of<br />
many of the housemade specialties, or if looking for a<br />
more casual meal, the Whitehouse-Crawford burger is<br />
heavenly. Reservations are suggested.<br />
55 WEST CHERRY ST.<br />
WALLA WALLA<br />
whitehousecrawford.com<br />
Gastronomy<br />
Casco Antiguo<br />
written by Julie Lee<br />
KILLER TACOS? Hot pepper margaritas? Central locale? Check, check<br />
and check. Casco Antiguo tops the Seattle foodie scene with scratchmade<br />
everything, posh ambience and margaritas on tap. Sit bar-side and<br />
watch tortillas being made while sipping a smoked-salt rimmed mezcal<br />
margarita. Northwest-infused favorites include carne asada tacos with<br />
grilled bavette steak, duck carnitas taquitos and pollo y mole enchiladas.<br />
Located a quick jog from Safeco Field and CenturyLink Field in Pioneer<br />
Square, this hot spot is el mejor.<br />
115 OCCIDENTAL AVE. S.<br />
SEATTLE<br />
cascoantiguoseattle.com<br />
A beer-braised whole duck leg, cooked carnitas-style with<br />
housemade mole and sesame seeds with rice and beans.<br />
FRIED CHICKEN<br />
There are many go-to dishes at Quality Athletics, but<br />
the fried chicken sando soars to the top. With smoked<br />
red aioli and a kiss of honey, this is game day—and<br />
everyday—fried chicken. For a side, skip the salad and go<br />
crazy with the hand-cut fries—they’re worth the extra<br />
calories. This is a sophisticated sports bar in the nerve<br />
center of Pioneer Square, where you can park, drink,<br />
cheer and stay for hours. With a wood-fired grill and a<br />
rooftop garden, it’s game on for gastronomes.<br />
121 SOUTH KIND ST.<br />
SEATTLE<br />
qualityathletics.com<br />
ICE CREAM<br />
Take a walk back in time at Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe,<br />
named for Disney short film Ferdinand the Bull but smack<br />
in the epicenter of Cougar country. Washington State<br />
University’s gourmet ice cream shop in Pullman featu<strong>res</strong><br />
the best of old-fashioned dairy treats, with soda-fountain<br />
goodies, delectable ice cream, coffee and some of the best<br />
cheese in the country: the award-winning Cougar Gold.<br />
2035 NE FERDINAND’S LANE<br />
PULLMAN<br />
creamery.wsu.edu<br />
28 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
food + drink<br />
BEST PLACES FOR<br />
BBQ<br />
SMOKING MO’S<br />
Housed in a 1915 historic bank building in Shelton<br />
is some great Q and brew. Smoking Mo’s is a<br />
community backbone with a neighborly vibe.<br />
Rotating beer taps quench thirst after licking the<br />
signature housemade barbeque sauce off the rib<br />
bones. With a special Sunday brunch menu and<br />
an imp<strong>res</strong>sive Bloody Mary bar, Smoking Mo’s is a<br />
fitting place to catch Sunday’s NFL playoff games<br />
as teams march toward the granddaddy of them all.<br />
203 W RAILROAD AVE.<br />
SHELTON<br />
smokingmos.com<br />
PECOS PIT BARBECUE<br />
Pecos in Seattle offers barbeque for a steal of a deal.<br />
Check out the happy hour with $2 slider specials and<br />
$4 beers, or get a $6 mini-me sandwich or two. If you<br />
are a brisket connoisseur or a fan of s<strong>low</strong>-smoked<br />
pork butt, this is your place. While many barbeque<br />
joints offer similar sides, breakouts at Pecos include<br />
cowboy caviar with black-eyed peas, avocado and<br />
corn and pit beans.<br />
2260 FIRST AVE. S.<br />
SEATTLE<br />
pecospit.com<br />
CASK & TROTTER<br />
If you yearn for an innovative cocktail to<br />
pair with a favorite barbeque, Cask & Trotter<br />
sounds the horn. This spot has a ritzy spin,<br />
offering a chic bar, grilled artichokes for an<br />
appetizer and some of the most delicious<br />
smoked chicken found anywhere. The houseground<br />
top sirloin burgers are a nice option<br />
for those looking beyond traditional barbeque<br />
dishes. The bacon gorgonzola burger with<br />
grilled onion is a show-stopper.<br />
18411 HWY 99<br />
LYNWOOD<br />
caskandtrotter.com<br />
COUNTRY BOY’S BBQ<br />
Country Boy’s BBQ in Cashmere is the pinnacle<br />
of Southern rustic barbeque fare. While the<br />
pulled pork is a specialty, head straight to a<br />
combo plate and try a little bit of everything<br />
so you don’t have to choose one dish. Sublime,<br />
simple, scrumptious barbeque.<br />
400 APLETS WAY<br />
CASYHMERE<br />
countryboysbbq.com<br />
Erin Berzel<br />
Dining<br />
Smokehouse Provisions<br />
written by Julie Lee<br />
B. J. SMITH IS AMASSING a barbeque<br />
empire. With the addition of Smokehouse<br />
Provisions in Vancouver, his Smokehouse<br />
<strong>res</strong>taurants are now a three-fingered brand,<br />
with the perfect smoke ring on each finger.<br />
His pleasure-producing brisket, baby<br />
backs, hot-links and sides were birthed<br />
at his original location in NW Portland,<br />
Smokehouse 21, which Smith coins a<br />
“dirty little BBQ joint hole in the wall.”<br />
The expansion to SE Portland meant both<br />
Smith and the <strong>res</strong>taurant were maturing;<br />
Smokehouse Tavern introduced craft<br />
cocktails, an expanding menu of smoked<br />
meats, and a more chef-driven, upscale<br />
dining experience. “Smokehouse Tavern<br />
Smokehouse Provisions’ deviled egg hot links.<br />
is Smokehouse 21’s classy older brother,”<br />
Smith said. His move into Vancouver<br />
may pave a path for others to fol<strong>low</strong>, as<br />
Portland’s <strong>res</strong>taurant scene continues its<br />
saturated squeeze, and the need for more<br />
dining hotspots in Vancouver beckons<br />
from across the river. What would he call<br />
Smokehouse Provisions, if Smokehouse<br />
21 is the baby and Smokehouse Tavern is<br />
the older brother? “I’d call Smokehouse<br />
Provisions the father: more mature, a big,<br />
beautiful space and full of character.”<br />
8070 E. MILL PLAIN BLVD.<br />
VANCOUVER<br />
smokehouseprovisions.com<br />
30 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />
MORE ONLINE For more Washington eats, visit <strong>1889</strong>mag.com/dining
Mason Family<br />
Restaurants<br />
Enoteca<br />
B I S T R O<br />
exceptional<br />
food & service<br />
breathtaking<br />
river view<br />
gluten-free<br />
friendly<br />
www.ketchum-enoteca.com<br />
Ketchum grill<br />
www.ketchumgrill.com<br />
town square tavern<br />
www.ketchumtavern.com<br />
Three great places<br />
one great town<br />
open every day • lunch.dinner.sunday brunch • 503.325.6777<br />
bridgewaterbistro.com • 20 basin street, astoria or • on the river<br />
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home + design<br />
Farm to Table<br />
Hama Hama’s Oyster Bounty<br />
A cracking, slurping, delicious good time<br />
written by Corinne Whiting<br />
photography by Cameron Zegers<br />
IF YOU DON’T FULLY APPRECIATE oysters before landing in Washington, chances are<br />
you’ll truly understand the shuck-happy clamor before you sail away.<br />
In these water-logged parts, fifth-generation family-run shellfish farm Hama<br />
Hama has built a reputation anchored in hard work and clean water. Its mission is<br />
simple—“Utilize <strong>low</strong>-impact farming methods to grow world-class oysters, have<br />
fun and leave something good for the next guy.”<br />
Located on the Olympic Peninsula, Hama Hama beds sit at the mouth of one of<br />
Washington’s shortest, coldest and least developed rivers. This purity produces<br />
oysters with a clean, crisp flavor. These oysters are not fed, fertilized or doctored.<br />
As they grow, the bivalves actively clean their environment. Two oyster varieties<br />
grow on Hama Hama's home farm—classic, beach-grown Hama Hamas and<br />
tumble-farmed Blue Pools.<br />
On the beach, staff harvest at <strong>low</strong> tide and bring product to shore at high<br />
tide. “One awesome thing about being in this industry is that your schedule isn’t<br />
determined by the board of directors. It’s determined by planetary forces,” Hama<br />
Hama’s Lissa James Monberg said. Sometimes you “have to wait for the moon to<br />
pull the ocean off your beach.”<br />
Monberg said this marine lifestyle helps tap into a better way of interacting<br />
with the world. “Even though it puts you right in the heart of big issues<br />
like pollution, runoff issues … it seems like a really positive place to work,”<br />
she said.<br />
32 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
home + design<br />
"Utilize <strong>low</strong>-impact farming<br />
methods to grow world-class<br />
oysters, have fun and leave<br />
something good for the next guy."<br />
— Hama Hama mission<br />
Mitch McKasson holds nets filled with f<strong>res</strong>h oysters.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33
"Selling to people<br />
who share our<br />
stoke for bivalves<br />
fuels our fire ..."<br />
— Lissa James Monberg<br />
FARM FRESH<br />
Hama Hama officially launched its “Direct to Chef Program”<br />
in 2012 to “put the best oysters and clams into the most<br />
skilled hands.” Perks such as overnight delivery and immediate<br />
feedback benefit everyone involved. “Selling to people who<br />
share our stoke for bivalves fuels our fire and keeps us smiling<br />
when we’re picking and packing late into the wee hours of a<br />
mid-winter <strong>low</strong> tide,” Monberg said.<br />
James Beard Award-winning chef Renee Erickson said she<br />
was lucky to meet Hama Hama six years ago before opening<br />
her acclaimed <strong>res</strong>taurant, Walrus. “We take our staff many<br />
times a year to see the farm, visit, learn and generally eat and<br />
have a fantastic time,” she said.<br />
TABLE READY<br />
Although Hood Canal’s pictu<strong>res</strong>que Alderbrook Resort &<br />
Spa harvests oysters on its own beach, the <strong>res</strong>ort will often<br />
source from their Hama Hama neighbors, too. Alderbrook’s<br />
dishes incorporate seasonal ingredients foraged from the 88-<br />
acre property, and recent dishes included oyster shooters with<br />
Heritage ghost chili vodka and cucumber-lemon-basil relish,<br />
plus oyster stew with shallots, brown butter, sherry cream and<br />
paprika oil.<br />
In Olympia, Our Table exclusively serves Hama Hama<br />
shellfish, one of its favorite preparations being baked oysters.<br />
The dish uses extra-small shell oysters baked with housemade<br />
bacon jam, smoked pepper coulis and a spicy arugula pesto or<br />
mustard greens and house seasonal fruit vinegar.<br />
When the weather cools, Erickson brings one of her favorite<br />
creations to Seattle’s Bar Melusine—the oyster pan roast. She<br />
serves the oysters barely cooked, with a rich sauce of bacon,<br />
butter, five spices, cognac and a touch of cream.<br />
Seattleites can also find Hama Hama at neighborhood farmers<br />
markets—Saturdays in the University District and Sundays in<br />
Ballard. Of course, there’s no better place to savor farm-f<strong>res</strong>h<br />
products than at Hama Hama’s Lilliwaup store and oyster saloon—<br />
the friendly site where all the magic happens.<br />
FROM TOP Mitch McKasson shucks an oyster. Bountiful shellfish at Hama Hama.<br />
34 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
home + design<br />
Washington Recipes<br />
Cooking with<br />
Oysters<br />
Courtesy of Alderbrook Resort & Spa<br />
Oyster Stew<br />
UNION/ Alderbrook Resort & Spa<br />
Josh Delgado<br />
2 dozen medium-sized Hood<br />
Canal Pacific oysters, shucked<br />
Whole butter (enough to sauté<br />
oysters)<br />
1 tablespoon shallots<br />
1 tablespoon chives<br />
1 tablespoon parsley<br />
White pepper to taste<br />
Salt to taste<br />
1 quart heavy cream<br />
8 ounces sherry wine<br />
Crispy shallot<br />
Browned butter<br />
Paprika oil<br />
Sauté one dozen shucked medium-sized<br />
Hood Canal Pacific oysters in whole butter<br />
with shallots, chives and parsley. Season<br />
with white pepper and salt to taste (the<br />
oyster will sometimes provide all the<br />
salinity you need). Separately, reduce<br />
heavy cream combined with sherry wine<br />
by half and add your oysters, making sure<br />
to use a spatula to get every bit out of the<br />
sauté pan. Place the stew in a small bowl<br />
and garnish with crispy shallot, browned<br />
butter and paprika oil.<br />
Hood Canal Oysters on the Half<br />
Shell with Mignonette<br />
UNION/ Alderbrook Resort & Spa<br />
Josh Delgado<br />
2 ounces soy sauce<br />
2 ounces mirin<br />
2 ounces black vinegar (you can<br />
find at all Asian grocery sto<strong>res</strong>)<br />
1 ounce rice vinegar<br />
1 shallot, finely minced<br />
2 tablespoons thinly shaved scallions<br />
1 tablespoon minced pickled ginger<br />
1 teaspoon chili paste (Sambal or alike)<br />
2 turns of a pepper mill<br />
Combine all ingredients and let sit for at<br />
least 30 minutes. Serve with f<strong>res</strong>h Hood<br />
Canal oysters on the half shell.<br />
Oyster Roll<br />
SEATTLE / Westward<br />
Will Gordon<br />
4 oyster or crab roll buns, sub hoagie rolls<br />
if unavailable<br />
16 large oysters (Pacifics are good) soaked<br />
in buttermilk<br />
2 dill pickled cucumbers, sliced horizontally<br />
and soaked in buttermilk<br />
Red oak or butter lettuce for garnish<br />
Remoulade (recipe fol<strong>low</strong>s)<br />
Dredge for frying (recipe fol<strong>low</strong>s)<br />
Pickled red onions (recipe fol<strong>low</strong>s)<br />
OYSTER AND PICKLE DREDGE<br />
1 cup semolina flour<br />
1 cup flour<br />
2 tablespoons cornstarch<br />
Mix ingredients together, <strong>res</strong>erve for later.<br />
REMOULADE<br />
1 cup mayonnaise or homemade aioli<br />
2 tablespoons finely chopped capers<br />
½ shallot, minced<br />
1 tablespoon chopped parsley<br />
Scant pinch chopped tarragon<br />
1 teaspoon minced chive<br />
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper<br />
Juice and zest of half a lemon<br />
2 tablespoons chopped dill or sour pickle<br />
¼ cup fine-diced celery<br />
¼ teaspoon f<strong>res</strong>h grated horseradish, or<br />
prepared to taste<br />
Scant pinch sweet paprika<br />
Mix ingredients together and let sit a couple<br />
hours or overnight to al<strong>low</strong> flavors to combine.<br />
Oysters on the half shell at Alderbrook Resort & Spa.<br />
PICKLED RED ONIONS<br />
2 large red onions<br />
2 cups champagne vinegar<br />
1 cup water<br />
2 tablespoons salt<br />
1 tablespoon black peppercorns<br />
1 lemon, sliced<br />
2 sprigs thyme<br />
2 tablespoons sugar<br />
Lightly salt red onions and let sit for an hour<br />
or so. Rinse, dry and <strong>res</strong>erve. Make a sachet<br />
of thyme lemon and peppercorn. Bring water,<br />
vinegar, salt and sugar to a boil with the<br />
sachet. Pour hot over onions. Let cool.<br />
ASSEMBLY<br />
Toast your rolls in a cast-iron pan or griddle<br />
with a little butter and olive oil until golden<br />
brown, then set aside. Drain the oysters and<br />
pickles from buttermilk. Coat in dredge, then<br />
remove, shaking off excess. Heat a deep fryer<br />
or pot of oil (canola, rice bran, etc.) to 350<br />
degrees and gently drop your oysters and<br />
pickled cucumbers in, al<strong>low</strong>ing them to fry<br />
until golden brown and beautiful. Place on a<br />
paper towel to drain and lightly salt.<br />
While frying the oysters and pickles, spread a<br />
bit of remoulade on the rolls and add a couple<br />
lettuce leaves. Evenly distribute your oysters<br />
and fried pickles. Garnish with some pickled<br />
red onion.<br />
Serve with your favorite potato chips.<br />
36 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
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EXPIRES MARCH 31, 2017
home + design<br />
Reimagining History<br />
Two modern Northwest-style houses get<br />
reinvented for contemporary family life<br />
written by Melissa Dalton<br />
Mark Woods<br />
BY CHANNELING THE DESIGN PHILOSOPHY of two influential Midcentury<br />
Seattle architects, these designers transform two dated houses into<br />
welcoming family hubs that will stand the test of time.<br />
38 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
LEFT The existing dead-end kitchen was transformed from a dark corner of the house into a domestic wing that<br />
combines the functions of a kitchen, mudroom, utility room, powder room and small home office. ABOVE The<br />
new open kitchen and dining room are naturally illuminated by the large window sequence, also creating a visual<br />
connection with the outdoors and the tall fir trees beyond.<br />
BAINBRIDGE ISLAND: SIMPLICITY RULES<br />
It’s a well-known fact that architect Gene Zema’s work was not fussy.<br />
Between 1953 and 1976, Zema designed forty-six Seattle-area<br />
<strong>res</strong>idences, which largely embodied the regional Northwest style<br />
popular during his time. “I like to do buildings with materials<br />
that reflect the weather, the atmosphere, the landscaping,” Zema<br />
said in a 2007 interview with The Seattle Times. “I like it simple.”<br />
Such was the approach that architect Thomas Schaer, principal<br />
of Shed Architecture & Design, adopted for a recent remodel of<br />
one of Zema’s last homes. “He did not fuss around with fancy<br />
materials,” Schaer said. “There was a mantra that developed early<br />
in the design process: What would Gene do?”<br />
Unfortunately, when Schaer first stepped through the door<br />
of this 1971 house on Bainbridge Island, it was in rough shape<br />
thanks to a series of insensitive remodels. Zema originally<br />
designed the house with a centralized courtyard open to the<br />
sky. A prior owner, however, converted that courtyard into a<br />
sunken living room, enclosed it with a leaky glass roof and<br />
encircled the whole space with a railing that forbade entry.<br />
Still, Schaer only had to look up to see what should have been.<br />
“Obviously the post-and-beam framing and the exposed wood<br />
ceiling were awesome,” he said. “It felt like they needed to be<br />
liberated.” In the ensuing renovation, he and his team sought<br />
to <strong>res</strong>pect Zema’s aesthetic while making the home functional<br />
for its new owners, a young family.<br />
The team started by remedying the ill-used living room. First,<br />
they raised the floor height, which eliminated the need for a<br />
railing. Then they extended the existing roofline to incorporate<br />
high cle<strong>res</strong>tory windows, and replaced the leaky glass with<br />
paneling that matched the original. With the removal of a hallway,<br />
they created space for a fireplace and streamlined built-ins, to<br />
provide a focal point across from the front door.<br />
In the kitchen, long consigned to a dead-end corner of the house,<br />
the goal was to make it more social. The architects enlarged the<br />
room’s footprint and then integrated a highly functional, floating<br />
“utility core,” which includes a mudroom, powder bath, office space<br />
and laundry units within steps of one another. Now, the main living<br />
areas f<strong>low</strong> together for easy family living.<br />
Everywhere, old details merge with new updates, to ultimately<br />
reinvigorate Zema’s design. “His material palette was pretty<br />
much fir, cedar, sheet rock and plastic laminate and, in some<br />
cases, masonry and concrete,” Schaer said. In keeping with that,<br />
the kitchen hosts sleek plastic laminate cabinets adorned with<br />
wire brass pulls. The <strong>res</strong>ealed cedar ceiling contrasts nicely with<br />
stained Douglas fir trim. In the living room, the new brick hearth<br />
fuses with the concrete floor in an interlocking pattern. In two<br />
spots, Schaer detailed spare wood-slatted screens, in a nod to<br />
Zema’s longstanding love of Japanese design. “We probably went<br />
a little beyond what (Zema) would do in a few cases,” Schaer said.<br />
“But for the most part we really tried to keep it simple.”<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39
home + design<br />
"We were not looking to copy exact<br />
details of (Ralph) Anderson's architecture<br />
but rather capture the spirit of long, <strong>low</strong><br />
rooflines and connection to nature."<br />
— Lisa Staton<br />
Clyde Hill: The Scandinavian Treatment<br />
On the exterior of Michele Conrad’s<br />
Mid-century home in the Clyde Hill<br />
neighborhood, black-trimmed windows and<br />
charcoal-painted siding seem to project an<br />
owner who revels in dark and moody color.<br />
Inside, however, the opposite prevails. Blonde<br />
wood floors, crisp white walls, and generous<br />
windows embrace light and nature. Conrad,<br />
a marketing consultant at Microsoft who<br />
lives with her husband and three daughters,<br />
bought the house in 2015. “I wanted to create<br />
a home that only had the necessities,” she<br />
said, citing a desire to get rid of anything<br />
the family didn’t use daily. Whether it was<br />
a dusty holdout from her wedding registry<br />
or a mismatched dish, every piece of clutter<br />
disappeared in the move. “That way we could<br />
focus on the family and friends that come<br />
into the house.”<br />
The new home came with a pedigree. Famed<br />
Seattle architect Ralph Anderson, who was<br />
instrumental in the rehabilitation of the Pioneer<br />
Square neighborhood, originally designed it in<br />
1966. But its prefabricated fixtu<strong>res</strong> and finishes<br />
had not aged well, and by the time Conrad<br />
bought it, the builder had already gutted it.<br />
This suited Conrad’s intentions. “It was a blank<br />
slate,” she said. She envisioned a “Scandi-meets-<br />
Mid-century” interior, so she enlisted the aid<br />
of interior designer Lisa Staton. Staton honed<br />
architectural details, organized space plans,<br />
and suggested finishes, fixtu<strong>res</strong>, furniture, and<br />
rugs. “It was pretty soup to nuts,” Staton said.<br />
The first order of business was to honor<br />
the house’s history. “We were not looking to<br />
copy exact details of Anderson’s architecture<br />
but rather capture the spirit of long, <strong>low</strong><br />
rooflines and connection to nature,” Staton<br />
said. To that end, the deep eaves were kept<br />
intact while the interior benefitted from two<br />
important moves. First, Staton and Conrad<br />
encouraged the builder to b<strong>low</strong> out the walls<br />
and keep the main floor open. Next, Staton<br />
changed the window patterns, dropping all of<br />
the sill heights to fifteen inches off the floor.<br />
“That really makes a difference in making the<br />
house feel open and connected to nature,”<br />
Staton said.<br />
Furthermore, the women tweaked the<br />
central staircase in order to maintain<br />
sightlines. Rather than enclosing it with<br />
cabinetry, they suggested a floating design<br />
the builder successfully executed with<br />
painted wood, glass panels and steel railings.<br />
Across from it, the kitchen holds a place of<br />
honor at the floorplan’s center, as Conrad<br />
is an avid cook. Yet the hardworking space<br />
recedes, due to cabinetry with a minimal<br />
profile, streamlined appliances, and an<br />
expansive window over the cooktop. “The<br />
way we designed the kitchen, it makes a huge<br />
difference that there are no upper cabinets,”<br />
Staton said. “That changes the way you<br />
experience the room.”<br />
Such a thoughtful process ensured the<br />
<strong>res</strong>ults stay true to Conrad’s original vision.<br />
Now, she happily cooks dinner surrounded by<br />
her family, as her daughters perch at the island<br />
doing homework or practice cartwheels in<br />
the entry. “You can focus on what counts,”<br />
Conrad said of her uncluttered digs. “It’s<br />
really just a backdrop for people.”<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The home's kitchen featu<strong>res</strong> Carrara marble countertops and exposed<br />
beams. A Ralph Anderson-designed light fixture, original to the house, was <strong>res</strong>tored and hung in<br />
the master bedroom. A child's bedroom designed around a cantilevered bunk bed.<br />
Photography courtesy of Lisa Staton<br />
40 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
home + design<br />
Mid-century Marvels<br />
These products add architectural detail with a Mid-century flair<br />
MID-CENTURY STAR DOORBELL BUTTON<br />
For an abundance of period-appropriate<br />
house items—everything from switch plates<br />
to cabinet hardware to heat registers—<br />
Rejuvenation is a one-stop shop. The Midcentury<br />
Star Doorbell Button bestows a little<br />
personality to an overlooked spot.<br />
rejuvenation.com<br />
ANTIQUE HARDWARE<br />
If you prefer to bring home something with<br />
a little patina, visit Earthwise Architectural<br />
Salvage, located in Seattle and Tacoma. Its<br />
antique hardware, including doorknobs and<br />
backplates, offers historical authenticity.<br />
ewsalvage.com<br />
MODERN MAILBOX<br />
The sleek, wall-mounted modern mailbox<br />
delivers Atomic style to a bland entry. It’s<br />
made from 16-gauge stainless steel and<br />
comes powder-coated in fun Mid-century<br />
colors, such as coral peach and Caribbean teal.<br />
modern-mailbox.com<br />
LIGHT FIXTURES<br />
For a period-perfect sconce or chandelier, try<br />
Cedar & Moss, a Portland-based maker of<br />
modern and Mid-century light fixtu<strong>res</strong>. The<br />
Alto Compass, composed of solid brass and<br />
hand-b<strong>low</strong>n glass shades, is a glamorous<br />
adornment in a foyer or dining room.<br />
cedarandmoss.com<br />
MID-CENTURY MADNESS PLANTER<br />
Vintage-inspired house numbers are an<br />
easy way to evoke another era. We like<br />
the Mid-century Madness Planter from<br />
Urban Mettle. It combines a retro font with<br />
succulents for a mod front door vignette.<br />
urbanmettle.com<br />
42 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
of Northwest Coast Art<br />
A lot of things have changed out here<br />
since the lawless days<br />
of the wild, wild west.<br />
Guess we didnt get the memo.<br />
VisitEasternOregon.com<br />
photo by Michael Iwasaki<br />
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mind + body<br />
Football Fitness<br />
Spokane Empire’s standout rookie<br />
comes back from injury<br />
written by Sheila G. Miller<br />
WHEN YOU THINK OF football<br />
in Washington, you likely picture the<br />
Seattle Seahawks, or the recent success<br />
of the Washington State Cougars and<br />
University of Washington Huskies.<br />
But Trevor Kennedy and the Indoor<br />
Football League’s Spokane Empire are<br />
here to tell you that while it might look<br />
a little different, the skill and fitness<br />
levels are very much the same.<br />
The Spokane Empire joined the<br />
Indoor Football League in 2016 after<br />
defecting from the Arena Football<br />
League (the team was known as the<br />
Spokane Shock), and finished atop its<br />
conference with a 12-4 record. The<br />
Empire lost to the Sioux Falls Storm in<br />
the league’s version of the Super Bowl<br />
last July. Games run from <strong>Feb</strong>ruary<br />
through July, and are played on a 50-<br />
yard field surrounded by walls with<br />
eight players a side.<br />
Kennedy, a running back, took the<br />
league by storm in 2016, being named<br />
the league’s offensive rookie of the<br />
year and leading the league in scoring,<br />
despite missing the final three games<br />
with a broken leg.<br />
Though the game looks a little<br />
different, Kennedy doesn’t see much<br />
difference in how fit he has to be to<br />
perform. “I believe that if you are in<br />
shape enough to play outdoor football,<br />
the transition is pretty subtle,” he said.<br />
“The differences for me are more<br />
from the style of play and speed of the<br />
game, which is drastically different<br />
mostly because of the indoor field<br />
size. You only get used to it by actually<br />
playing.”<br />
Kennedy started playing football<br />
when he was 7 years old, and played<br />
soccer and basketball growing up.<br />
He played football for Mercyhurst<br />
University in Pennsylvania, and has<br />
also played in the Canadian Football<br />
League and participated in NFL<br />
tryouts. Now he’s enjoying Spokane,<br />
with its lakes and mountains and trails.<br />
“I love nature and being outdoors, and<br />
I am finding out there is no better place<br />
to experience those things than here in<br />
Spokane,” he said.<br />
Coming back from a broken leg has<br />
been no easy task. Kennedy said he’s<br />
struggled with what he calls athlete’s<br />
dep<strong>res</strong>sion (“The feeling that you will<br />
never be the same,” he said). But once he<br />
began working with a physical therapist<br />
he started seeing <strong>res</strong>ults, and became<br />
confident he could return to the field.<br />
“I struggled with it for a while but I<br />
made it over the hump and am getting<br />
to the fun part now,” he said. “Early on,<br />
while I was still on crutches, I would<br />
go to the gym three days a week. All<br />
I could do at that point was lift upper<br />
body, and I started doing that about a<br />
week after surgery. After two months<br />
in a cast, I was able to begin physical<br />
therapy.”<br />
He’s still recovering from his injury,<br />
but Kennedy has his sights set high.<br />
He hopes to ultimately make a 53-man<br />
roster in the NFL, but isn’t worried if<br />
that’s not in the cards.<br />
“If being the best and working<br />
hard doesn’t take me to the NFL, then<br />
I will have fun while I am chasing<br />
it, because this is what I love to do and<br />
am most passionate about,” he said.<br />
When it’s all over, Kennedy wants to<br />
start his own training facility to work<br />
with elite athletes.<br />
RIGHT Trevor Kennedy catches air in a game<br />
against the Colorado Crush.<br />
44 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
mind + body<br />
Picasa<br />
Picasa<br />
Trevor Kennedy<br />
Age: 26<br />
Born: Akron, Ohio<br />
Residence: Spokane<br />
WORKOUT<br />
In the off-season, Kennedy trains five days a<br />
week and takes two <strong>res</strong>t days. Four of the five<br />
days are split into two workouts lasting about<br />
two hours.<br />
• Thirty minutes of stretching and warming up.<br />
• Speed days: running technique and drills, use a<br />
parachute for <strong>res</strong>istance running.<br />
• Upper body days: push/pull system doing<br />
exercises such as bench with a barbell row,<br />
or dumbbell single-arm p<strong>res</strong>s with pullups.<br />
• Lower body days: Focus on whatever<br />
attribute he is trying to improve or increase.<br />
Example: linear speed—start with a hang clean<br />
fol<strong>low</strong>ed by squats, deadlifts and auxiliary exercises.<br />
Average training week<br />
• Monday: 5 a.m. workout focusing on speed. 4 p.m.<br />
heavy leg workout.<br />
• Tuesday: 5 a.m. position-specific footwork and<br />
skills drills. 4 p.m. upper body lifting.<br />
• Wednesday: <strong>res</strong>t day, stretching and foam rolling<br />
for flexibility.<br />
• Thursday and Friday: variations of Monday and<br />
Tuesday.<br />
• Saturday: strictly skill and plyometrics (explosive<br />
movements).<br />
• Sunday: <strong>res</strong>t day.<br />
In-season, Kennedy trains twice a week at<br />
the most, depending on the time off between<br />
games. Those are usually one upper body day<br />
and one <strong>low</strong>er body day, but mostly he focuses<br />
on <strong>res</strong>t and recovery.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 45
artist in <strong>res</strong>idence<br />
Falling in Love With the American West<br />
The story of how a German couple became one of<br />
America’s largest collectors of Western Art<br />
written written by Jean Gina Picha-Parker<br />
Williams<br />
photography images courtesy by Shauna of Tacoma Intelisano Art Museum<br />
Green River, Wyoming by Thomas Moran.<br />
THIS IS A LOVE STORY.<br />
It is a tale about Erivan and Helga Haub—two Germans who<br />
fell in love with the American West and the stories told through<br />
its art. This love affair led them to embrace the Pacific Northwest<br />
and transform a regional art museum in their adopted hometown<br />
of Tacoma with the gift of a lifetime.<br />
It began on their honeymoon in 1958 while the young couple<br />
was visiting friends near Tacoma. They became entranced with<br />
the region’s expansive views of the water, mountains and fo<strong>res</strong>ts.<br />
The natural beauty moved them to make a summer home in the<br />
Pacific Northwest.<br />
The Haubs’ enchantment with the American West evolved<br />
after a trip to Wyoming in 1981. Their appetite became a<br />
hunger for images of wide open spaces, wildlife, cowboys and<br />
American Indians. With considerable wealth and urgency, they<br />
collected art of the American West in earnest. The German<br />
couple surrounded themselves with bronze sculptu<strong>res</strong>, vivid<br />
paintings, detailed carvings and portraits from famous artists.<br />
This love affair lasted thirty years before they decided to share<br />
their extensive collection. They chose Tacoma, the place where<br />
their American experience began. “The family decided to keep<br />
this collection of American Western Art together and find the<br />
best possible home for it,” said Lilian Haub, the Haubs’ daughter<br />
in-law. “Once we met the team at the Tacoma Art Museum, the<br />
decision was easy.”<br />
The Haubs donated 295 pieces and a $20 million gift to double<br />
the museum’s size to provide space for the new collection.<br />
In November 2014, at the inaugural exhibition, Tacoma Art<br />
Museum took its place as one of the largest collections of art<br />
from the American West. “Tacoma Art Museum has been a<br />
cultural anchor in the city since 1935 and this is one of the<br />
most outstanding moments in those seventy-nine<br />
years,” Tacoma Art Museum (TAM) director Stephanie<br />
Stebich said.<br />
46 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
AAWArail.org<br />
Like to travel by train?<br />
Join All Aboard Washington’s members in shaping<br />
our rail future. Visit AAWArail.org to learn more.<br />
FRENCH VIRTUOSITY<br />
Ravel<br />
Tribute a<br />
to<br />
43x60x50<br />
Georgia Gerber<br />
RAVEL ................................... La Valse<br />
SCHMITT ..................La Tragedie de Salome (Suite)<br />
DUBUGNON ....XIX “Le Soleil” from Arcanes Symphoniques (2001)<br />
RAVEL ..........................Rhapsodiie espagnole<br />
RAVEL .....................................Bolero<br />
FEBRUARY 25 8 PM<br />
discover contemporary sculptor ivan mclean in our<br />
landmark sculpture garden across from the city park &<br />
info center. Collectors Selection of Georgia Gerber<br />
Bronze Sculpture. Master of Fine Art Photography<br />
Christopher Burkett.<br />
Selected by Travel Oregon to rep<strong>res</strong>ent the Arts in Cannon beach<br />
"Cannon Beach is one of Americas 100 best art towns”<br />
232 North Spruce<br />
Cannon Beach<br />
503 436 0741<br />
info@NWBYNWGALLERY.com<br />
FEBRUARY 26 3 PM<br />
Concert sponsored by:<br />
MARTIN WOLDSON THEATER AT THE FOX<br />
and The Heaton Family<br />
TICKETS: 509 624 1200<br />
OR SPOKANESYMPHONY.ORG
In November 2014, at<br />
the inaugural exhibition,<br />
Tacoma Art Museum<br />
took its place as one of<br />
the largest collections<br />
of art from the<br />
American West.<br />
48 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
artist in <strong>res</strong>idence<br />
Michael Abella<br />
LEFT CLOCKWISE Conjuring Back the Buffalo by Frederic Remington.<br />
Cowgirl by Billy Schneck. Helga and Erivan Haub.<br />
Since the collection’s opening, a steady stream of<br />
Western Art enthusiasts has flocked to the new wing<br />
to see masterworks dating from the 1790s to the<br />
p<strong>res</strong>ent. The artists include Gilbert Stuart, Thomas<br />
Moran, Frederic Remington and Georgia O’Keeffe.<br />
“These extraordinary pieces provide a window and<br />
al<strong>low</strong> us to have conversations about our environment,<br />
our relationships with the diverse communities of the<br />
American West and to be reminded that the West is<br />
a rich, complicated place that we call home,” observed<br />
Rock Hushka, TAM’s chief curator.<br />
Early on, the collection was criticized for the idealized<br />
images of American Indians. Of the 140 artists in the<br />
Haub collection, just three are American Indian. “There<br />
is a hard romanticism we face as Native people,” said<br />
Qwalsius–Shaun Peterson, a Puyallup tribal member,<br />
artist and TAM board member. “A story and archetype<br />
have taken hold that we have little to no control of. … Some<br />
images are accurate and informed, but those images are<br />
outnumbered by the works that cry out that the vanishing<br />
race concept is real.” Peterson was a contributing artist to a<br />
recent TAM exhibit called “(Re) P<strong>res</strong>enting Native Americans,”<br />
which featured works from American Indians. It asked<br />
visitors to ponder, “What is American identity?”<br />
TAM also recently appointed Faith Brower as the new<br />
curator for the Haub collection. She previously served<br />
as a Western art curator at the High Desert Museum<br />
in Bend, Oregon. Her charge is to shape a vision for<br />
the Haub collection that will more fully articulate the<br />
complex story of the West. “I think Tacoma has started a<br />
really great program of integrating the Native American<br />
voice into the collection,” she said. “Continuing this<br />
effort is important to me and how this collection is going<br />
to be interpreted and portrayed.”<br />
LEFT Piñons with Cedar by Georgia O’Keeffe.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49
Kevin Light<br />
STARTUP 52<br />
WHAT’S GOING UP 54<br />
WHAT I’M WORKING ON 56<br />
MY WORKSPACE 58<br />
GAME CHANGER 60<br />
(pg. 62)<br />
Protection Island featu<strong>res</strong> a variety of marine<br />
life and bird populations.
startup<br />
Arzeda Corporation: Beer-Inspired<br />
Solutions for Global Challenges<br />
Expanding natural processes for global need<br />
written by Cathy Carroll<br />
A rendering of the molecular structure of a protein<br />
molecule designed by Arzeda.<br />
HAVING A BEER AND TALKING about solving<br />
the world’s problems is nothing unusual. One stage Seattle startup, however, is leveraging the age-old<br />
early-<br />
technology behind the beer-making process to solve some<br />
of the most daunting challenges facing the world today.<br />
Alexandre Zanghellini, CEO and co-founder of Arzeda<br />
Corporation, said his endeavor is inspired by the efficiency,<br />
elegance and simplicity of nature’s synthetic biological<br />
processes, such as the fermentation of beer. The company is<br />
on a mission to expand chemical and enzyme-engineering<br />
capabilities found in nature to provide solutions for<br />
p<strong>res</strong>sing global needs.<br />
In beer-making, the microorganism of brewer’s yeast<br />
is used to convert wheat or other grains into one of the<br />
Northwest’s most beloved beverages. The same process can<br />
be altered to ferment renewable <strong>res</strong>ources, converting it into<br />
valuable chemicals, and biotechnology such as this can help<br />
solve some hefty societal challenges, Zanghellini said. He<br />
cited the World Economic Forum’s predictions related to<br />
sustainability, global warming and population growth.<br />
“We need to improve by 70 percent our food production by<br />
2050 to meet the demands on economies by growing populations<br />
worldwide,” he said. The other top challenges are societies’<br />
unsustainable dependence on oil and its environmental harms.<br />
“These are worrying trends, and we have an opportunity with<br />
technology like ours to make an impact.”<br />
Arzeda is partnering with big agriculture and other<br />
biotech companies, applying its protein design technology<br />
with the goal of producing more food for the planet in a<br />
more economical, efficient and environmentally friendly<br />
way. The company is working with DuPont Pioneer Hi-Bred<br />
and has similar new partnerships pending, Zanghellini said.<br />
Essentially, the work entails engineering plants to yield more<br />
food using fewer <strong>res</strong>ources.<br />
52 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
startup<br />
“When you have a plant that absorbs light and water<br />
and biomass as food, it’s inefficient—plants are bad at<br />
it,” he said. “We work with our partners to get 10 or 20<br />
percent more biomass, or food productivity, no matter<br />
how you measure food per unit of input of water, fertilizer<br />
and light. There’s only so much light in a day, but if a<br />
plant is more efficient at using it, you get more per day.<br />
With DuPont, we have been successful at improving the<br />
productivity of a plant.”<br />
Arzeda does the same thing<br />
for chemical partners such<br />
as Invista, one of the world’s<br />
largest integrated producers of<br />
chemical intermediates used<br />
in making nylon, spandex and<br />
polyester for major brands<br />
such as Lycra, Coolmax,<br />
Cordura, Stainmaster and<br />
Antron. These are used for<br />
products from carpeting and<br />
car parts to clothes. “Almost<br />
everything you’re wearing<br />
for running, except cotton, is<br />
effectively made from oil, and<br />
most people don’t know that,<br />
but it’s the case, 100 percent,”<br />
Zanghellini said.<br />
Invista collaborated with<br />
Arzeda to rewire the process<br />
using plant sources instead of<br />
oil. The innovation offers a solution to potentially increasing<br />
the global supply of bio-derived chemicals.<br />
The chemical industry is shifting toward adopting<br />
natural chemical manufacturing methods such as enzyme<br />
fermentation, Zanghellini said. Using these natural methods<br />
can al<strong>low</strong> the limitless manufacture of universal industrial<br />
building blocks such as butanol, isoprene or adipic acid in<br />
“We need to improve<br />
by 70 percent our food<br />
production by 2050<br />
to meet the demands<br />
on economies by<br />
growing populations<br />
worldwide.”<br />
a more environmentally <strong>res</strong>ponsible, sustainable way. This<br />
could eliminate the need for 5 percent of oil production for<br />
the synthetic chemical industry, according to Arzeda.<br />
“We are at the point now where some of these<br />
chemicals are hitting the market at as competitive a price<br />
as the ones produced by oil,” Zanghellini said. “Oil had<br />
dropped to $40 or $50 a barrel, so it was hard to compete<br />
the last few years, but now the first products are hitting<br />
the market with more and more renewables, from plants<br />
versus oil, and that’s creating<br />
opportunities for us.”<br />
The endeavor gained ground in<br />
2008, when Zanghellini and three<br />
other computational biologists<br />
published two seminal papers on<br />
computational enzyme design<br />
and synthesis in the elite journals<br />
Science and Nature. They laid<br />
the groundwork for Arzeda with<br />
preliminary operations at the<br />
University of Washington Center<br />
for Commercialization in Seattle.<br />
With some seed investment,<br />
Arzeda was in business by<br />
July 2009. Without any large<br />
investments, it grew with<br />
customer revenue from the<br />
start, said Zanghellini, who<br />
earned his Ph.D. from the<br />
University of Washington and<br />
a master’s degree in scientific engineering from ENSTA/<br />
ParisTech in France.<br />
Today, the company’s team of eighteen works in a<br />
Seattle building about 5 miles from where they began, in<br />
a building with a lab on the first floor and computational<br />
teams above.<br />
— Alexandre Zanghellini,<br />
CEO and co-founder of Arzeda<br />
Photography and illustration courtesy of Arzeda Corporation<br />
FROM LEFT Arzeda’s CEO, Alex Zanghellini, performing screening experiments.<br />
Arzeda co-founder Daniela Grabs inspects bacterial colonies. A software engineer<br />
designs a new protein molecule.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53
what’s going up?<br />
AROUND WASHINGTON<br />
Swiss Hotel Leavenworth<br />
BMI will build the hotel under the<br />
name Swiss Hotel Leavenworth.<br />
Plans call for the 24,000-squarefoot<br />
structure to be built on 3<br />
ac<strong>res</strong> adjacent to Safeway at the<br />
east entrance of town. Amenities<br />
will include an indoor pool,<br />
meeting rooms, breakfast facilities,<br />
ski-gear storage areas and around<br />
ninety-five parking spaces.<br />
swisshotelleavenworth.com<br />
Element Redmond<br />
This new sleek Westin concept<br />
puts business travelers about a<br />
mile from Microsoft headquarters<br />
and close to Boeing and other<br />
corporate entities. The 131-<br />
room hotel offers extended-stay<br />
accomodations, too. Part of<br />
the Starwood Hotels company,<br />
Element Redmond is part of a<br />
28-acre, mixed-use development,<br />
Esterra Park. The hotel is expected<br />
to open May 25.<br />
elementhotels.com<br />
Building Boom<br />
Charter Hotel, Seattle<br />
written by Kevin Max<br />
ADD A NEW NEIGHBOR to the menu of feisty Biscuit Bitch in Seattle’s<br />
Belltown district. Charter Hotel, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton,<br />
is planning a $52 million, sixteen-story, 229-room chic hotel at Second<br />
Avenue and Stewart Street. Charter Hotel will offer a full-service<br />
<strong>res</strong>taurant, meeting space as well as a top floor lounge and outdoor<br />
terrace. Construction is expected to be completed <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 2018.<br />
54 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
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love for all things outdoors. There’s also a unique alternative to banking—iQ Credit Union. Open an<br />
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what i’m working on<br />
Sawyer Buckminster Fuller, Ph.D.<br />
Making fly-sized robots<br />
interview by Cathy Carroll<br />
SAWYER BUCKMINSTER FULLER, AN ASSISTANT<br />
professor of mechanical engineering at the University<br />
of Washington, works on a very tiny scale. Fuller creates<br />
biologically inspired sensors, control systems, and<br />
mechanical designs targeted at insect-sized air and ground<br />
vehicles, and studies the flight systems of flying insects.<br />
He also developed a frog-hopping robot at the NASA Jet<br />
Propulsion Laboratory and invented an ink-jet printer<br />
capable of fabricating millimeter-scale 3D metal machines<br />
at the MIT Media Lab.<br />
He uses the right side of his brain, too. A Jackson Pollackesque<br />
depiction of the flight paths of flies captured by a<br />
multi-camera fly tracker took first prize in the 2008 Art of<br />
Science show.<br />
He surfs, prefers riding bicycles to driving cars and admi<strong>res</strong><br />
Buckminster Fuller, the twentieth-century inventor and<br />
visionary (and Harvard dropout), but they are not related.<br />
OG Photography<br />
What are the challenges of creating a<br />
fully autonomous robot as small as a fly?<br />
It is not enough to simply reduce component<br />
size. Many conventional robot and aircraft<br />
technologies such as electric motors, GPS<br />
sensing, gliding flight, and even generalpurpose<br />
microprocessors cannot operate<br />
efficiently or effectively at insect scale. This is<br />
because dominant physical effects change as<br />
scale reduces. One way to overcome this is to<br />
look to solutions used by biology.<br />
For example, rather than gliding like birds,<br />
flies and bees continually flap their wings<br />
as an adaptation to the greater effect of<br />
viscous drag at small scale. More than that,<br />
insects have superlative capabilities that<br />
outclass current robots.<br />
Watch as a honeybee navigates to a f<strong>low</strong>er<br />
and then deftly lands on it while buffeted<br />
by wind—all of which is orchestrated by a<br />
tiny brain.<br />
What are some of the practical<br />
applications of insect-scale robots?<br />
With challenges in manufacturing,<br />
sensing, feedback control and power, the<br />
work is still in <strong>res</strong>earch and development.<br />
It may be possible to deploy a lot at once<br />
for the same cost as a single larger robot.<br />
Applications could be in search and<br />
<strong>res</strong>cue, assisted agriculture, atmospheric<br />
measurements and ad-hoc wireless<br />
networking. In all of these cases, having<br />
a lot of little robots will really speed things<br />
up or fundamentally improve <strong>res</strong>ults.<br />
You believe your work may give insights<br />
into the operation of the brain?<br />
I am also inte<strong>res</strong>ted in how insects control<br />
their motion, which is amazing and still<br />
not very well understood. I hope that<br />
by building robotic counterparts at the<br />
equivalent scale, we can test hypotheses<br />
about insect flight. These animals are<br />
actually not simple at all, but they are<br />
simpler than mammals, making it easier<br />
to understand how their brains operate,<br />
which could give clues about our own.<br />
56 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
Morgan Freeman<br />
SU2C Ambassador<br />
Executive Producer<br />
of the documentary,<br />
The C Word<br />
Tonya Peat<br />
Cancer Survivor<br />
Be the breakthrough. <br />
Breakthroughs are the patients<br />
participating in clinical trials, the<br />
scientists and doctors working<br />
together to advance the fi ght<br />
against cancer, and the brave<br />
survivors like Tonya who never<br />
give up. Let’s be the breakthrough.<br />
To learn about appropriate<br />
screenings and clinical trials<br />
or to help someone with cancer,<br />
go to su2c.org/breakthrough.<br />
#cancerbreakthrough<br />
Stand Up To Cancer is a program of the Entertainment Industry Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charitable organization. Please talk to your healthcare provider about appropriate screenings for your age, sex, family history and<br />
risk factors; and about clinical trials that may be right for you. Photo by Nigel Parry
my workspace<br />
My Workspace<br />
Andy Sahlfeld<br />
Veteran ski patroller at Mt. Baker<br />
written by Cathy Carroll<br />
photography by Grant Gunderson<br />
Andy Sahlfeld, 46, has one of the world’s best winter<br />
commutes, albeit an early one. He rises well before<br />
dawn in an A-frame at 4,200 feet at the Mt. Baker Ski<br />
Area, walks out the door to a chairlift, and rides 2,000<br />
feet to the Panorama Dome “Pandome” Hut at 5,200<br />
feet, Ski Patrol headquarters. The morning meeting<br />
happens outside the hut, where Sahlfeld delegates<br />
duties of the day to roughly ten patrollers.<br />
The Pandome Hut is close to cliffs with up to<br />
100-foot drops. One patroller is stationed there<br />
for <strong>res</strong>cues, which usually happen once or twice<br />
a month. Cliff <strong>res</strong>cue gear in the hut includes<br />
two 100-meter ropes, anchors, belay devices<br />
and other high-angle <strong>res</strong>cue equipment.<br />
Inside the hut, there’s a camp stove, but people<br />
usually bring a sack lunch and hot drinks.<br />
“We don’t keep food in there because of the<br />
occasional pine marten,” Sahlfeld said. “If you<br />
don’t watch your stuff, they come out, though<br />
they usually don’t like people. Every once in a<br />
while, there’s a wild one in there in the morning,<br />
and they’re pretty vicious.”<br />
58 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
my workspace<br />
The 1998-99 season, Sahlfeld’s rookie year on patrol,<br />
was also the year Mt. Baker set the world record for<br />
annual snowfall—1,140 inches, or 95 feet.<br />
“We’d just finished our avalanche control, and one team<br />
member wasn’t there,” Sahlfeld said. “It turned out<br />
he had skied on his own, fallen and gotten buried. We<br />
found him in time—he almost died—he’d just gotten to<br />
the point where he’d stopped breathing.”<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59
game changer<br />
Salaam Cultural Museum<br />
Sending positive aid in violent times<br />
written by Tricia Louvar<br />
RITA ZAWAIDEH SLEEPS about two<br />
hours a night in her Seattle home, then<br />
she’s up and on the phone with people on<br />
the other side of the world.<br />
The 65-year-old Madaba, Jordan-native<br />
lives and breathes activist change seven days<br />
a week. She p<strong>res</strong>ides over the Seattle-based<br />
nonprofit organization, Salaam Cultural<br />
Museum (SCM), which she founded eleven<br />
years ago.<br />
SCM started as a traveling museum to<br />
p<strong>res</strong>erve cultural artifacts from the Middle<br />
East and North Africa. Her collection of<br />
relics date back to the B.C. era, with the intent<br />
of fostering understanding, compassion,<br />
appreciation and education. SCM has<br />
exhibited in public spaces, schools and popup<br />
gallery spaces around Seattle.<br />
The SCM, however, morphed into a<br />
multifaceted nonprofit organization that<br />
has spearheaded medical missions and the<br />
collecting and distribution of humanitarian aid<br />
to Syrian refugees in Jordan and Greece camps<br />
as well as assisting in their stateside <strong>res</strong>ettlement.<br />
To make the medical missions in the<br />
Middle East and North Africa happen,<br />
Zawaideh used her cultural status, lineage<br />
and know-how to become a registered<br />
non-governmental organization (NGO) in<br />
Jordan and managed the medical missions<br />
at the borders of Jordan, Syria and Iraq for<br />
the refugees. “For the first four years, every<br />
forty-five days we took a new medical<br />
mission. The doctors saw 700 patients a<br />
day. The dentists treated between seventy<br />
to a hundred patients a day and that was<br />
just in Jordan,” Zawaideh said.<br />
Doctors, technicians, humanitarians<br />
and good-hearted people volunteered<br />
their time and services to SCM Medical<br />
Missions. Today, SCM focuses less on<br />
medical missions and more on collecting,<br />
packaging and delivering humanitarian aid<br />
from Seattle to Jordan and Greece, where<br />
her network distributes the items to camps<br />
of refugees.<br />
“The donations come from all over<br />
the United States. If people go, they pay<br />
their own way,” Zawaideh said. SCM<br />
is completely volunteer-run. “These<br />
volunteers are giving up their lives, leaving<br />
their husbands, wives, families, who have<br />
never been the Middle East just to help<br />
people in need. That to me is humbling.”<br />
Syrian refugees in Greece receive food, as well as clothing<br />
and other assistance, through Salaam Cultural Museum.<br />
SCM volunteers also work at the Syrian<br />
refugee camps to teach yoga, jewelry-making<br />
and craft-making, which gives them job skills for<br />
when they relocate to the United States. With<br />
the complete life upheaval from violence and<br />
village decimation, Syrian refugees arrive in the<br />
U.S. not knowing the culture and language and<br />
with no money. SCM puts out notices for those<br />
relocated Syrian families in need of assistance.<br />
If Seattleites cannot offer money, then time is<br />
an asset to help refugees navigate the land of<br />
change and <strong>res</strong>ettlement.<br />
Each day twenty boxes of donated items<br />
arrive at SCM. Volunteers sort and pack<br />
the humanitarian aid for large shipments<br />
sent to Jordan, where the aid travels from<br />
Aqaba, then Amman and finally into the no<br />
man’s land of refugee camps.<br />
For someone who has been a<br />
humanitarian for thirty years, Zawaideh<br />
continues her fight for all humanity. “My<br />
friends keep telling me I can’t save the<br />
world. But I’m going to keep trying to save<br />
the world until I’m told I can’t,” she said.<br />
“Every little bit helps.”<br />
60 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
KEEPING FAMILIES CLOSE<br />
when it matters most<br />
For more than three decades, Ronald McDonald House Charities ® of Oregon and Southwest Washington<br />
has provided a “home away from home” for more than 37,000 families with seriously ill children.<br />
Oregon’s three Ronald McDonald Houses can host up to 56 families per night, offering a beautiful<br />
place to stay, compassionate hospitality, home-cooked meals, and so much more.<br />
To learn more, visit rmhcoregon.org
THE LAST MAN ON<br />
ONCE, PEOPLE INHABITED Protection<br />
Island. Then in 1988 the U.S. Fish and<br />
Wildlife Service transformed it into a<br />
national wildlife refuge, evicting all human<br />
life—well, nearly all.<br />
Marty Bluewater’s boat eased along the<br />
narrow channel. Her captain exercised<br />
caution in the ebbing tide. Running<br />
aground now would mean being stuck for<br />
hours until the flood returned. Overhead,<br />
a pair of bald eagles soared in the updraft<br />
while scanning the bay for fish on its<br />
surface. Approaching a small manmade<br />
harbor at Violet Point, we were engulfed by<br />
a cacophony of screaming seagulls trying<br />
to feed their offspring while warding off<br />
greedy neighbors. On shore, a colony of<br />
seals bathed in the sun, each lifting its gaze<br />
to blink s<strong>low</strong>ly before dozing off again.<br />
Gliding up to the guano-encrusted dock,<br />
the skipper, nicely tanned with a full head<br />
of curly gray hair and wearing all white—<br />
shirt, shorts, socks and sneakers—casually<br />
tied off his vessel and shut down the<br />
engines. He has done this for forty-five<br />
years, since he first flew over this islet as<br />
a college graduate in the early 1970s and<br />
fell in love with it. “Welcome to Protection<br />
Island,” Bluewater said with an ocean-wide<br />
smile. “Welcome to Fantasy Land.”<br />
ROTECTION<br />
ISLAND<br />
An islet became a wildlife haven after humans<br />
were evicted—except one<br />
written by Dieter Loibner<br />
62<br />
photography by Kevin Light<br />
<strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />
62 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
PROTECTION ISLAND<br />
48.1273° N, 122.9297° W<br />
Born in 1948 in Albuquerque, New Mexico, Bluewater’s<br />
heritage is equal parts Choctaw, Shawnee, Irish and<br />
Latino. His father was in the U.S. Air Force and moved<br />
the family of six to Seattle when Bluewater was about<br />
10. From 1967 until 1973, Bluewater served in the<br />
Air Force Reserve and graduated from the University<br />
of Washington with a bachelor’s degree in business<br />
administration. He went to work for the university’s<br />
office of financial aid, but spent most of his career with<br />
Seattle Parks and the Woodland Park Zoo, managing<br />
budgets, business and operations. After retiring, he<br />
volunteered on the board of United Indians of All<br />
Tribes Foundation and became its director for a couple<br />
years. Working with the Tribes, he said, was the most<br />
meaningful thing he had ever done. “It brought me<br />
much closer to my native roots,” he noted.<br />
Shaped like a kingfisher’s head and narrow beak,<br />
Protection Island is 380 ac<strong>res</strong> and sits in the Strait of<br />
Juan de Fuca at the mouth of Discovery Bay. It is only 2<br />
miles northwest of Cape George, a private community<br />
where Bluewater keeps his boat.<br />
A little more than two hours north of the crowded<br />
Seattle metro area, Protection Island might as well<br />
be on another planet. Historically, the S’Klallam tribe<br />
used to hunt water fowl there and called it Cha-chane-cuk.<br />
During the late eighteenth century came<br />
Spanish explorers, who called it Isla de Carrasco. It<br />
was Captain George Vancouver who gave the island<br />
its p<strong>res</strong>ent name when he charted these waters in the<br />
1790s. Since then, it has been farmland and pasture, a<br />
training ground for the U.S. Navy, then subsequently<br />
subdivided for development.<br />
In the 1960s, investors paid $275,000 for the island,<br />
built roads and an air strip and subdivided it into 800<br />
lots called Protection Island Beach Club. “There was<br />
a landing strip for small planes that flew people over<br />
from Everett so they could pick out a building lot,”<br />
Bluewater said as he bumped along the jolting<br />
ride. Bluewater was one of those customers.<br />
Protection Island’s hilly profile, seen from the south<br />
during the approach by boat from Cape George.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63
64 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />
Marty Bluewater walks up the gangway that connects the floating<br />
docks in the harbor with the parking lot where he keeps his van.
In 1971, counseled by his mother, the 23-year-old<br />
Bluewater ponied up $7,000 for a small plot. “I was<br />
hooked,” he recalled. “Over the first five years, we pooled<br />
what money we had to build a small cabin, and we had<br />
great times. I later expanded it with the help of friends.”<br />
Without electricity and offering only scarce water, only<br />
a dozen homes were built. When Protection Island was<br />
designated as a potential wildlife haven, owners were offered<br />
buyouts on a sliding scale of fifteen years’, twenty-five years’<br />
or lifetime use. Bluewater was the only one who opted for<br />
the latter.<br />
“One night, I stood on my deck and cried like a baby at<br />
the thought of maybe losing my place,” Bluewater recalled.<br />
“I find myself in a situation<br />
where … I am forced to defend<br />
what I consider some of my<br />
more basic rights as a United<br />
States citizen,” he wrote in<br />
a statement concerning, the<br />
proposed Protection Island<br />
National Wildlife Refuge Bill. “I<br />
am prepared to go to whatever<br />
limits necessary to retain my<br />
property on Protection Island.<br />
Also, I am perfectly willing to<br />
assist with the development<br />
of any safeguards necessary to<br />
ensure that the unique fragile<br />
character of the Island is<br />
adequately protected. I do not<br />
believe that these things are mutually exclusive.”<br />
The ensuing battle made him a symbol for the conflict<br />
between private property rights and government power.<br />
In the end, Bluewater managed to negotiate maintaining<br />
his small footprint as a property owner while supporting<br />
habitat conservation and <strong>res</strong>toration.<br />
In 1988, the island was turned into a National<br />
Wildlife Refuge. Now, managed under a comprehensive<br />
conservation plan, it is a place where wild things have taken<br />
root. Tufted puffins, rhinoceros auklets, pigeon guillemots,<br />
cormorants, glaucous-winged gulls and bald eagles nest<br />
here. Oystercatchers and fifty different species of land birds<br />
have found Protection Island hospitable. Its beaches and<br />
surrounding waters are home to harbor and elephant seals,<br />
sea lions, orcas and other whale species.<br />
Visitors can come by boat, but they are required to<br />
keep 200 yards from shore. A few <strong>res</strong>earchers and a U.S.<br />
Fish and Wildlife Service caretaker periodically spend<br />
Now, managed under<br />
a comprehensive<br />
conservation plan,<br />
it is a place where wild<br />
things have taken root.<br />
time here, but only as long as necessary to carry out their<br />
work. Being here on terra firma without t<strong>res</strong>passing is a<br />
rare privilege.<br />
After he loaded supplies from the boat into his van that<br />
he keeps parked on a gravelly lot, Bluewater popped the<br />
hood to jump the vehicle. “Technology,” he said with a<br />
shrug as it sputtered to life. Up a steep and bumpy hillside<br />
road we went, navigating a narrow shoulder that dropped<br />
precipitously toward the water.<br />
“Let’s stop here for a moment,” Bluewater suggested at<br />
a pullout high above the harbor. It is a spot on the grassy<br />
plateau that offers a sweeping panorama of the Strait of<br />
Juan de Fuca, the Olympic Peninsula to the southwest,<br />
Dungeness Spit due west and<br />
the Canadian shoreline in the<br />
misty distance to the northwest.<br />
Bluewater gazed down at the<br />
ground. “This is where auklets<br />
dig their burrows with that<br />
little horn on the beak,” he said,<br />
pointing to the hillside be<strong>low</strong>.<br />
The number of these nocturnal<br />
birds on this island grew from<br />
fewer than 30,000 in the 1970s to<br />
more than 70,000 today, making<br />
it one of the largest colonies in<br />
North America, according to the<br />
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.<br />
If the island is a refuge for<br />
wildlife, Bluewater’s cabin is his<br />
sanctuary. It sits about 150 feet above the water on a southfacing<br />
bluff, near the Zella M. Schultz Seabird Sanctuary<br />
overlooking Discovery Bay, Diamond Point and the jagged<br />
peaks of the Olympic Mountains. This cabin is also safe<br />
harbor for his musical instruments and a collection of<br />
oddities and mementos that include a framed concert ticket<br />
of Pink Floyd’s The Wall from 1981 in Germany and a plastic<br />
mammoth next to a real mammoth tooth, which he said he<br />
found alongside a piece of a tusk.<br />
Though Bluewater enjoys it here, Protection Island is not<br />
a place of idyllic solitude. Sea otters once made the long and<br />
steep trek up from the beach to his cabin where they holed<br />
up in the septic tank. “Why they’d do that is beyond me,”<br />
he said, shaking his head with amusement. Deer carouse<br />
here, and when he’s out, birds of all feathers flap and hop<br />
nonchalantly around him, leaving their fecal<br />
mark on everything. Summer’s soundtrack largely<br />
consists of the gulls’ piercing shrieks. Come fall,<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 65
they’re all gone, scavenging garbage dumps and fast food<br />
joints in Seattle, Bluewater said with a chuckle. It’s only<br />
then that he can listen to the wind howling around his<br />
chalet while playing music or editing thousands of still<br />
and video images he’s taken over the years as part of an<br />
ongoing documentation of the island.<br />
The island is also a front row seat in the theater of climate<br />
change. Last summer, hundreds of auklets washed up<br />
dead on area beaches, possibly due to starvation. Further,<br />
scientists who study the gull population on the island<br />
noticed an increase in cannibalism. This phenomenon<br />
may correlate with increased sea temperatu<strong>res</strong>, which<br />
pushes fish to cooler water at greater depths, beyond<br />
the reach of birds who feed on them. The rising sea level<br />
also poses a threat, as evidenced by the increasing rate of<br />
shoreline erosion. “Back in the day, I used to camp on the<br />
cliff beyond the little fo<strong>res</strong>t on the north side,” Bluewater<br />
said wistfully. “Now, that spot is completely gone.”<br />
The large number of bald eagles also poses a problem.<br />
“They made a strong comeback after being decimated<br />
by DDT,” Bluewater said, invoking a harmful insecticide<br />
widely used prior to 1972. “But that means they are<br />
fighting for habitat and food, seeking out this island in<br />
larger numbers and feeding on seagulls and auklets. It’s<br />
not normal, but then again, the concept of normal has<br />
gone out the window a long time ago.”<br />
Bluewater jumped his van again for the bumpy trip<br />
back across the plateau and down to Violet Point. The<br />
water level in the harbor is high enough for his vintage<br />
cabin cruiser to traverse the narrow channel safely.<br />
But before heading back to Cape George, he detoured<br />
to Kanem Point on the western end of the island. He<br />
checked in on the elephant seals that had pups here<br />
instead of migrating down the coast to California<br />
and the crowded breeding grounds of Año Nuevo.<br />
But they were out for the day, p<strong>res</strong>umably running<br />
errands. Bluewater shrugged. He knows he’ll be back<br />
on the island soon enough.<br />
Now in his late 60s, Bluewater takes friends and<br />
acquaintances to the island with him, not just to share<br />
his personal wild p<strong>res</strong>erve, but to educate them about<br />
the history and ecology of this place and to support<br />
fundraising efforts of community groups. “Bluewater,”<br />
The Seattle Times quoted a Fish and Wildlife supervisor<br />
saying in 2006, “has been a good neighbor.”<br />
TOP ROW Nautical paraphernalia as garden ornaments don’t distract from the<br />
view at Bluewater’s cabin. A seagull stands sentry on Protection Island.<br />
CENTER ROW The sign that decla<strong>res</strong> the area an animal kingdom. Bluewater<br />
taking a snap from the helm of his powerboat. BOTTOM Panoramic view of<br />
Protection Island’s tiny harbor, where Bluewater docks his boat, and Cape<br />
George in the background, where he keeps it when he’s off the island.<br />
66 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 67
TOP 5<br />
ROMANTIC<br />
GETAWAYS<br />
Heat things up with trips<br />
to these sweet spots<br />
written by Charyn Pfeuffer<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 69
FOR SOME TRAVELERS, STAYING IN a hotel<br />
room with amped-up amorous amenities<br />
can be equally important as its view and<br />
location. As temperatu<strong>res</strong> dip, heat things<br />
up with a romantic getaway. From scenic<br />
coastal <strong>res</strong>orts to snowy mountain lodges,<br />
Washington offers plenty of romantic<br />
lodging options. Here are five next-level<br />
romantic stays that will make your sweetie<br />
swoon. Stay warm and soak it up!<br />
70 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
SUN<br />
MOUNTAIN<br />
LODGE<br />
WINTHROP<br />
PERFECT ITINERARY:<br />
FUN FACT: THE METHOW VALLEY TOUTS<br />
the largest groomed Nordic ski trail system in North<br />
America with 120 miles of groomed, interconnected<br />
trails surrounded by more than a million ac<strong>res</strong> of<br />
wilderness and fo<strong>res</strong>t lands. If you’re looking to hit the<br />
snow with your sweetie, the area offers an abundance of<br />
cross-country and snowshoeing opportunities. When<br />
you’ve had enough of the snowy winter wonderland,<br />
the lodge is the perfect place to hole up with a wool<br />
blanket, a good book and a boozy mug of<br />
spiked hot cocoa. Whipped cream optional.<br />
EAT<br />
For the ultimate foodgasm, try the silky<br />
heirloom pumpkin soup fol<strong>low</strong>ed by the<br />
peppered venison loin at super-romantic<br />
Arrowleaf Bistro (207 White Ave.). Be sure to<br />
make <strong>res</strong>ervations at this local fave.<br />
DRINK<br />
The Copper Glance (134 Riverside Ave.), a<br />
self-described “petit lounge bar,” boasts more<br />
than twenty bourbon selections, but it’s the<br />
cocktails that shine. Try the Hanky Panky,<br />
made with Beefeater gin, Carpano Antica<br />
vermouth, Fernet Branca and orange bitters.<br />
PLAY<br />
In nearby Leavenworth, Hard Row to Hoe<br />
Vineyards (837 Front St.) opened a suitably<br />
saucy Bavarian brothel motif tasting room<br />
with such wines as Burning Desire Cabernet<br />
Franc and Shameless Hussy Merlot.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 71
THE<br />
THOMPSON<br />
SEATTLE<br />
THIS WINTER, THE NEST AT THOMPSON<br />
Seattle will transform its stunning outdoor rooftop<br />
into an indoor-outdoor oasis. To enjoy a romantic<br />
evening and get cozy next to your beau, <strong>res</strong>erve an<br />
exclusive firepit seat where you can sip batchedand<br />
barrel-aged cocktails served over hand-carved<br />
ice. Try the Cara Cara, a tequila-mezcal concoction<br />
made with beet, lime and agave. Then warm your<br />
toes with killer cityscape views of Seattle you<br />
can’t get anywhere else. The brand new property,<br />
conceived by Seattle design sweetheart Olson<br />
Kundig Architects, epitomizes urban chic and puts<br />
our spectacular Cascadian landscape front and<br />
center. It’s hip and swank and everything you’d never<br />
expect from Seattle.<br />
72 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017<br />
PERFECT ITINERARY:<br />
EAT<br />
For a culinary experience full of aphrodisiacs<br />
like oysters and a fourteen-course experiential<br />
tasting menu, <strong>res</strong>erve two seats at the intimate<br />
Chef ’s Counter at <strong>res</strong>taurant Scout in the hotel.<br />
DRINK<br />
Slip past the tourists at Pike Place Market and<br />
head up two flights of the Corner Building<br />
to Matt’s in the Market (94 Pike St.). Grab<br />
one of the eight highly prized barstools and<br />
sip a Compromise (a key element in any<br />
relationship), made with Old Overholt Rye,<br />
Dolin blanc, Strega and orange bitters.<br />
PLAY<br />
When the clock strikes 12, the Can Can<br />
Kitchen & Cabaret (94 Pike St. B) comes alive.<br />
Expect Moulin Rouge-inspired sequined<br />
servers, seductive singers, burlesque stars and<br />
an intimate atmosphere in the underbelly of<br />
the market.
PERFECT ITINERARY:<br />
EAT<br />
For a casual yet elegant dining experience,<br />
cozy up at Magdalena’s Creperie (1200<br />
10th St. #103) for sweet and savory crépes,<br />
as well as farmer cheese-stuffed pan-fried<br />
Polish pierogis.<br />
FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE WINTER getaway, hole up at<br />
The Chrysalis Inn & Spa. Located on Bellingham Bay, romantic<br />
amenities abound. Think double soaking tubs in every room,<br />
window-seat views of the bay and couples’ massages. For an<br />
extra special treat (and more space), book a king suite.<br />
Head downtown to take advantage of Bellingham’s lively arts<br />
scene. More than thirty venues participate in the First Friday<br />
Art Walk, held from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Expect cozy studios<br />
and artist meet-and-greets beyond your standard-issue gallery<br />
experience. The Whatcom Museum’s Lightcatcher Gallery (250<br />
Flora St.) is also worth a stop. Nearby, the nonprofit Pickford<br />
Film Center (1318 Bay St.) offers a daily, year-round schedule<br />
of independent, art house and noncommercial films. For the<br />
latest local calendar listings, be sure to check out bellingham.<br />
org and fairhaven.com.<br />
DRINK<br />
Beneath sexy chandeliers and vintage<br />
mirrors at The Temple Bar (306 W.<br />
Champion St.), sip the Winter’s Tail,<br />
made from gin, Campari, Dolin rouge<br />
and Zirbenz Stone Pine liqueur.<br />
PLAY<br />
Make out among the stacks at communitybased<br />
indie bookseller Village Books (1200<br />
11th St.), in the historic Fairhaven district.<br />
FEBRUARY MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73
THE<br />
MARCUS<br />
WHITMAN<br />
WALLA WALLA<br />
FOR A STRESS-FREE ROMANTIC GETAWAY,<br />
book the Marcus Whitman Romance Package.<br />
It includes accommodations in the historic tower<br />
or the west wing looking out over Walla Walla’s<br />
historic downtown, plus a dining voucher to The<br />
Marc Restaurant—named “Restaurant of the<br />
Year” by the Washington State Wine Commission.<br />
Feeling fancy? Add a bottle of sparkling wine and<br />
chocolate-covered strawberries. Whether you’re<br />
an aspiring wine aficionado or an<br />
oenophile know-it-all, the hotel<br />
offers six on-site tasting rooms<br />
and a rotating winery-of-themonth<br />
tasting menu.<br />
PERFECT ITINERARY:<br />
EAT<br />
Indulge in the six-course tasting menu<br />
with wine pairings at Whitehouse-Crawford<br />
Restaurant (55 West Cherry St.), which<br />
featu<strong>res</strong> farm-to-table ingredients and an everchanging<br />
menu.<br />
DRINK<br />
Nearby wineries include Tero Downtown<br />
Tasting Room (6 W. Rose St. #103), an artisanal<br />
boutique winery specializing in small-batch<br />
wines; Lagana Cellars (6 E. Rose St.), which<br />
focuses on white wines; Kerloo Cellars (private<br />
tasting appointments are available; 3911 First<br />
Ave. S.); and the Browne Family Vineyards (31<br />
E. Main St.), where you can enjoy al f<strong>res</strong>co<br />
sipping via their private patio.<br />
PLAY<br />
Book hot stone massages at Misbehavin Spa &<br />
Salon (126 W. Poplar St.).<br />
74 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
PERFECT ITINERARY:<br />
EAT<br />
For a romantic night on the town, snag a<br />
seat by the window for a view of the water<br />
at River’s Edge Restaurant (41 La Push Rd.).<br />
Afterward, take a stroll on La Push beach.<br />
DRINK<br />
Get to know the locals over pints at BBG<br />
Blakeslee Bar & Grill (1222 S. Forks Ave.),<br />
a watering hole with pool tables.<br />
PLAY<br />
Head to the beach for sunset, then build a<br />
beach fire. Fi<strong>res</strong> on the beach are legal. You<br />
can buy firewood at the local Quileute store.<br />
QUILEUTE<br />
OCEANSIDE<br />
RESORT<br />
LA PUSH<br />
TO EXPERIENCE WINTER storm-watching at<br />
its best, trek about three hours outside Seattle and<br />
hightail it to the coast. The storms of La Push are what<br />
weather-watcher dreams are made of. At Oceanside<br />
Resort, you’re smack dab on the beach, where<br />
accommodations range from cabins to campers.<br />
There’s no better way to spend a winter night than<br />
cuddled next to a fire watching the surf. First Beach<br />
is easy to access, but with a little extra effort, Second<br />
Beach is well worth the 1-mile hike and reward. It’s<br />
remote, wild and downright gorgeous.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 75
Washington’s Whiskey<br />
photography by Jackie Dodd<br />
WASHINGTON IS KNOWN for its beverages (coffee,<br />
anyone?), and one of those beverages is whiskey.<br />
Grey skies call for dark cocktails, after all.<br />
Here, an inside look at Copperworks Distilling, 2bar<br />
Spirits and Westland Distillery, all of which are making<br />
names for themselves in the whiskey world.<br />
Whiskey barrels line the wall of Westland Distillery in Seattle,<br />
where patrons can sip and mingle among the aging whiskeys.
Micah Nutt, owner and distiller at Copperworks Distilling Co.<br />
in Seattle, tends to a batch of whiskey.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Malted grains used in Westland’s<br />
whiskeys. Westland Distillery’s bottles on display. Barrel-aging<br />
whiskey in the back of Copperworks.
A small tasting room at 2bar Spirits in Seattle.
Westland Distillery owner Steve Hawley pours his awardwinning<br />
American oak single malt whiskey.
Courtesy ofSalish Lodge & Spa<br />
TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 84<br />
ADVENTURE 86<br />
LODGING 92<br />
TRIP PLANNER 94<br />
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 100<br />
(pg. 88)<br />
The Salish Lodge & Spa sits above Snoqualmie Falls,<br />
30 miles east of Seattle.<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 83
travel spotlight<br />
Where Dinosaurs Roam<br />
written by Lindsay McWilliams<br />
Photography courtesy of City of Granger<br />
The city of Granger boasts thirty-two dinosaurs throughout town.<br />
AROUND 1993, THE CITY OF GRANGER held a series of<br />
community meetings to discuss how to attract more visitors<br />
to the town, one of Washington’s smallest and poo<strong>res</strong>t<br />
(with a population just greater than 2,000). Recalling<br />
ancient woolly mammoth remains that had been found in<br />
the area decades earlier, the community decided on a new<br />
prehistoric theme for Granger—dinosaurs. A year later, the<br />
town had built its first dinosaur—a baby Brontosaurus—in<br />
Hisey Park out of mesh wire and concrete.<br />
The theme was a success—today, the city of Granger<br />
is home to thirty-two dinosaurs and takes the motto<br />
“where dinosaurs roam.” The giant creatu<strong>res</strong>, which were<br />
first confined to the park, have now spread throughout<br />
downtown, including two Megalosauri that welcome cars<br />
into the city. (Don’t miss the volcano-shaped bathrooms<br />
in the park.)<br />
Every year on the first Saturday in June, the community<br />
gathers for “Dino-N-A-Day” to build a new dinosaur or help<br />
<strong>res</strong>tore older dinosaurs in the “Granger dinosaur family.”<br />
84 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
Inside The Chrysalis Inn & Spa<br />
Trifecta Package<br />
Triple the luxury of your<br />
stay with this all on-site<br />
package that includes<br />
a one night’s stay, $50<br />
credit in the Spa, and<br />
$20 credit in Keenan’s at<br />
the Pier <strong>res</strong>taurant!<br />
Rates start at $259/night + tax.<br />
804 10 th St Bellingham WA (888) 808-0005 thechrysalisinn.com
adventure<br />
Adventure<br />
Three Northwest Nordic Retreats<br />
Snoqualmie Pass, Whistler Blackcomb and Ketchum offer miles<br />
of groomed cross-country skiing and views from another world<br />
written by Kevin Max<br />
Courtesy of Sun Valley Resort<br />
MANY YEARS AGO, WHILE LIVING IN<br />
New York, I’d abscond five hours north to<br />
Vermont to Nordic ski in the Chittenden area.<br />
Mountain Top, it was called. There were other<br />
places, but none too good and none too<br />
extensive. Who was I to snub the Northeast<br />
after a childhood of extruding pine tar to slide<br />
around thinly wooded spots in the Detroit<br />
area? The Pacific Northwest, however, is<br />
tracked with great networks of Nordic trails.<br />
We have wider spaces, more trails and,<br />
frankly, more stunning settings than our East<br />
Coast cousins.<br />
In this piece, we look at three such places,<br />
all within a day’s drive and known for<br />
massive trail networks—Snoqualmie Pass,<br />
Washington; Whistler Blackcomb and<br />
Ketchum’s North Valley Trail System.<br />
Sun Valley Resort is tucked in at the bases of Bald Mountain and Dollar Mountain.<br />
86 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
Franci<br />
Visit the Palouse<br />
Francisco Aguilar, franciscobaguilar.com<br />
In Eastern Washington, find our state’s official waterfall, capture a 360 degree view<br />
of rolling hills from one butte or hike to see a patchwork of farmland from another.<br />
Stay in Pullman. See our sights. Picture yourself here.<br />
Ask for more from the Pullman Chamber of Commerce | PullmanChamber.com | 800.365.6948<br />
rElAxaTioN<br />
Roughing it isn’t<br />
Without its Luxuries<br />
Dining<br />
Hiking Relaxation Culture Adventure Fishing<br />
Ahh, the art of taking it easy. At Stevenson,<br />
Washington, we define it as a fine meal amidst<br />
stunning views of the Columbia River Gorge.<br />
Or a quiet picnic on the sho<strong>res</strong> of the mighty<br />
Columbia River itself. Or a trip to the spa for<br />
a massage. Come and relax at a place that<br />
leaves st<strong>res</strong>s behind.<br />
CITYOFSTEVENSON.COM
adventure<br />
SUMMIT AT SNOQUALMIE PASS<br />
THE FIRST THING THAT APPEALS to<br />
Nordorks, like me, is the 15-kilometer Mt.<br />
Catherine Loop. There are easier routes that<br />
are just as scenic, overlooking Keechelus<br />
Lake, the source of the Yakima River, which<br />
f<strong>low</strong>s 214 miles southeast past Yakima and<br />
into the Columbia Basin. While Keechelus<br />
may mean “few fish” in a Native American<br />
tongue, it could take on a new interpretation<br />
as “many trails” today. In all, Summit at<br />
Snoqualmie Pass consists of 50 kilometers of<br />
cross-country skiing. Just more than 50 miles<br />
east of Seattle, Summit at Snoqualmie is not<br />
the isolationist dream. It is, nonetheless, a<br />
world apart from the bustling Seattle scene.<br />
For $45 roundtrip, you can catch the Seattle<br />
Ski Shuttle from various points downtown<br />
on Saturdays and Sundays. Get a Nordic pass<br />
at the Nordic center. The day-pass includes<br />
two lift rides to access the scenic upper<br />
cross-country trails.<br />
If you’re thinking of booking next year, check<br />
out the Snoqualmie Loppet in late January,<br />
when skiers rally for a 30-kilometer tour<br />
around Mt. Catherine.<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Tiroler Stube<br />
summit-at-snoqualmie.com/activities/<br />
dining<br />
The Commonwealth<br />
thepasslife.com/commonwealth<strong>res</strong>taurant<br />
WHERE TO DRINK<br />
Dru Bru Taproom<br />
drubru.com<br />
Red Mountain Coffee<br />
facebook.com/RedMountainCoffee<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Suncadia Resort<br />
destinationhotels.com/<br />
suncadia-<strong>res</strong>ort<br />
Salish Lodge & Spa<br />
salishlodgespa.com<br />
88 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
adventure<br />
Nils Ribi<br />
Cross-country skiers take in the Sun Valley Nordic scene.<br />
SUN VALLEY NORDIC (KETCHUM TO GALENA)<br />
KNOWN MOSTLY FOR ITS Hollywood Alpine<br />
skiing royalty, Sun Valley also abuts storied<br />
cross-country trails. Nordic ski trails snake into<br />
Ketchum along Big Wood River, whose origins<br />
and headwaters begin more than 20 miles<br />
northwest of town outside of the Galena Lodge.<br />
Galena Lodge is a classic log cabin built on the<br />
site of the remote mining town that once stood<br />
here. The interior of the lodge was constructed<br />
with material from the old mining camp. Today<br />
it is owned by the local recreational municipality<br />
and is the hub for 50 kilometers of trails in the<br />
Sawtooth National Fo<strong>res</strong>t’s Boulder Mountains.<br />
The network includes some easier trails that<br />
offer great views over the Sawtooth Range and<br />
more athletic trails such as Jenny’s Way. All of<br />
these trails lead you into solitude, then beckon<br />
you back for a hearty lunch at the lodge.<br />
Much like the star-studded walls of Sun<br />
Valley properties, Galena, too, has its own<br />
icon—ketchup hei<strong>res</strong>s Te<strong>res</strong>a Heinz Kerry, who<br />
donated funds in 1992 to save the lodge. Inside<br />
is a full-service cafeteria and an adjacent rental<br />
shop. For beginners, Galena Lodge concessioner<br />
Don Shepler recommends a skate ski lesson. “You<br />
don’t want to learn from your spouse,” he said. “A<br />
lesson is cheaper than marriage counseling.”<br />
Intermediate to expert Nordic skiers will be<br />
inte<strong>res</strong>ted in hitting the Harriman Trails, which<br />
run for 23 miles from the lodge gently downhill<br />
and back into Ketchum. If you’re a classic fanatic<br />
like me, you’ll want to ski the Harriman Trails<br />
in the opposite direction, or gently uphill from<br />
Ketchum to Galena. A shuttle from town to<br />
Galena Lodge—back this year—runs thrice daily<br />
Thursday through Sunday from December 22 to<br />
<strong>Feb</strong>ruary 5. For those who don’t want the burden<br />
of a marathon ski, park at one of the trailheads<br />
along State Highway 75 and measure your own<br />
out and back.<br />
Shepler’s ideal itinerary involves skiing the<br />
Harriman Trails, sharing a lunch at the lodge<br />
(“Our lunches are huge!”), then heading back to<br />
the new Middle Eastern-inspired Town Square<br />
Tavern for a cocktail, or perhaps a lamb burger<br />
($12 lunch, $16 dinner).<br />
From the Mason family, owners of mountain<br />
cozy Ketchum Grill and chic Enoteca, Town<br />
Square Tavern is a new example of their<br />
culinary creativity, with this well-designed<br />
minimalist venue.<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Galena Lodge (lunch)<br />
galenalodge.com<br />
Town Square Tavern<br />
ketchumtavern.com<br />
Ketchum Grill<br />
ketchumgrill.com<br />
WHERE TO DRINK<br />
Whiskey Jacques’<br />
whiskeyjacques.com<br />
Pioneer Saloon<br />
pioneersaloon.com<br />
Grumpy’s<br />
grumpyssunvalley.com<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Galena Lodge Yurts<br />
galenalodge.com/yurt-information<br />
Sun Valley Lodge<br />
sunvalley.com/lodging<br />
Limelight Ketchum<br />
limelighthotels.com/ketchum<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 89
adventure<br />
Mike Crane<br />
Among the 160 kilometers of Nordic trails in the Whistler Blackcomb area is<br />
the site of the 2010 Winter Olympics.<br />
WHISTLER BLACKCOMB<br />
NORDIC SKIING IN THE Whistler<br />
Blackcomb area takes place on 160<br />
kilometers of trails and three venues—<br />
Lost Lake Park, Callahan Country and<br />
Whistler Olympic Park.<br />
On the edge of Whistler Village is<br />
a gateway to scenery along Lost Lake<br />
Park’s 32 kilometers of trails. These<br />
groomed trails take skiers past Lost Lake<br />
PassiveHaus, the former Olympic home of<br />
the 2010 Austrian Nordic team, and into<br />
the cradle of the Whistler and Blackcomb<br />
mountains. Beginners should consider<br />
taking the easy jaunt out and around Lost<br />
Lake on the Lost Lake Loop trail. This<br />
4-kilometer loop is lit at night and offers<br />
photographic views of the silver tarn and<br />
snow-covered andecite of the surrounding<br />
mountains. Skiers seeking a strong fitness<br />
regime will look to the longer, more<br />
challenging terrain of Centennial, Hydro<br />
Hill and up to Black Loop on the Fairmont<br />
Whistler Golf Course. Of course, no one<br />
should leave without stepping into a cabin<br />
of the 4.4 kilometers long Peak2Peak<br />
Gondola and soaring up to Christine’s<br />
<strong>res</strong>taurant for a hearty red wine and confit<br />
lamb shoulder.<br />
Want to take it back to nature? Head to<br />
Callahan Country just a 2-kilometer drive<br />
west of Olympic Village at Whistler. Drop<br />
in to the full-service shop at Alexander<br />
Falls Ski Touring Centre and be treated<br />
to 130 kilometers of skiable terrain. A<br />
sucker for mountain lakes, I suggest taking<br />
Mainline out to Callahan Lake or the<br />
shorter Madeley Road out to Woods Lake.<br />
Remember the Nordic events of the 2010<br />
Winter Olympics? The Whistler Olympic<br />
Park trails where Norwegians, Swedes<br />
and Germans skied to many medals are<br />
p<strong>res</strong>erved in groomed perfection for the<br />
<strong>res</strong>t of us. With 90 kilometers of trails<br />
for classic and skate (30 kilometers of<br />
these are dog-friendly for a $5 charge),<br />
you can explore some of the same trails<br />
we watched during the Olympics. While<br />
adult day-passes are not nothing at $27,<br />
Wednesdays are marked down to $5.<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Araxi Restaurant and Oyster Bar<br />
araxi.com/oyster-bar<br />
Harajuku Izakaya Restaurant<br />
harajuku.ca<br />
WHERE TO DRINK<br />
Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub<br />
dubhlinngate.com<br />
Bar Oso<br />
baroso.ca<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Fairmont Chateau Whistler<br />
fairmont.com/whistler<br />
Coast Blackcomb Suites<br />
coastblackcombsuites.com<br />
Journeyman Lodge<br />
callaghancountry.com<br />
90 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
the<br />
UNbeaten path<br />
It will find you when you’re ready.<br />
Nonstop flights from 6 major cities<br />
SUNVALLEY.COM/winter
lodging<br />
ROOMS<br />
Hotel Monaco’s rooms are spacious<br />
by boutique hotel standards. Plentiful<br />
room options include a 500-squarefoot<br />
king deluxe with city views and<br />
a deep soaking tub. Décor is modern,<br />
charming and a bit eclectic, with lightinducing<br />
hues of grey and white.<br />
Hotel Monaco Seattle<br />
written by Julie Lee<br />
Location, location, location. Within<br />
walking distance to many of Seattle’s<br />
destination attractions is a premier hotel<br />
in which to unwind, ground down and<br />
<strong>res</strong>t weary feet. Hotel Monaco is a stylish<br />
link in a chain of Kimpton hotels, offering<br />
perks that range from the essential—<br />
such as nightly hosted wine—to the<br />
CLOCKWISE TOP Hotel Monaco’s lounge. A guest room in<br />
the hotel. The <strong>res</strong>taurant at Hotel Monaco.<br />
outlandish: companion goldfish, anyone?<br />
This is a hotel that has transcended two<br />
decades as a vital landing place in Seattle<br />
and gracefully aged with time.<br />
1101 4TH AVE.<br />
SEATTLE<br />
monaco-seattle.com<br />
DINING<br />
A recently rebooted <strong>res</strong>taurant<br />
concept anchors the hotel, bringing<br />
approachable yet creative dishes<br />
to hotel guests while inspiring<br />
destination dining for locals. The<br />
seasonally driven menu invokes<br />
sharing and social dining. Daily<br />
flatbreads are a go-to, perfectly<br />
charred in the brick oven, with<br />
shareable pastas and rotisserie as<br />
main options. The bar highlights<br />
Washington beer and wine,<br />
specializing in a variety of brown<br />
liquors, house infusions, tinctu<strong>res</strong><br />
and specialty cocktails using<br />
locally distilled spirits and farm<br />
f<strong>res</strong>h juices. New is an expansive<br />
outdoor patio: an extension of the<br />
main dining and bar space, with<br />
a retractable canopy, overhead<br />
heaters and fire pits.<br />
AMENITIES<br />
For a great stretch, each guest room<br />
comes equipped with a yoga mat,<br />
and for good karma join the Kimpton<br />
Karma Reward program and receive a<br />
$10 bar credit. Complimentary bikes<br />
are at the ready for a cruise around<br />
town, and pets are welcomed with<br />
treats. Check out the current ‘Use It,<br />
Snooze It & Booze It —Just Don’t Lose<br />
It’ package: repurpose your unused<br />
vacation days with a hotel stay, and<br />
receive a bottle of liquor with the<br />
appropriate accompanying mixer, late<br />
checkout and $1 off valet parking for<br />
every unused vacation day.<br />
LOCATION<br />
Seattle offers locals and tourists a<br />
hearty selection of things to do and<br />
places to go, and Hotel Monaco is at<br />
the hub of it all. It’s a short, Fitbitslaying<br />
hike to Pike Place Market,<br />
the Space Needle, Pioneer Square,<br />
CenturyLink Field, Safeco Field and<br />
the Seattle Aquarium.<br />
92 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
NW_Magads_Quarterpage.pdf 1 1/20/17 1:01 PM<br />
Welcome to the<br />
Beautiful Olympic Coast!<br />
Frommer’s decla<strong>res</strong> the most spectacular<br />
setting anywhere on the Washington Coast<br />
at historic Ocean C<strong>res</strong>t Resort .<br />
Steps To Haystack Rock<br />
Ocean Front Suites<br />
Fireplaces<br />
Fitness Center<br />
Onsite Masseuse<br />
Seasonal Specials<br />
Fabulous New Restaurant & Bar<br />
With Sweeping Seascape Views<br />
New Gift Shop Featuring<br />
Local Arts & Crafts<br />
Indoor Pool & Spa<br />
Direct Beach Access<br />
Spectacular Ocean Views<br />
Cozy Fireplace Rooms<br />
Free WiFi<br />
Family Friendly<br />
Pet Friendly<br />
No Cleaning Fees<br />
OCEAN CREST RESORT<br />
4651 SR 109 • 800-684-8439 • info@OceanC<strong>res</strong>tResort.com<br />
OceanC<strong>res</strong>tResort<br />
Indoor Salt-Water Pool<br />
Pet-Friendly Rooms<br />
Meeting Space<br />
- National Geographic<br />
TolovanaInn.com 1-800-333-8890
trip planner<br />
San Juan Island<br />
Scanning the surf for marine mammals<br />
written by Charyn Pfeuffer<br />
THE WATERS SURROUNDING San Juan Island are<br />
indeed one of the best spots in the country to see<br />
whales in the wild —especially orcas. Out of pure<br />
marine wildlife-loving curiosity, two summers ago I<br />
completed the Marine Naturalist Training Program<br />
through the Whale Museum and have been hot on<br />
the whale trail ever since.<br />
The second I set foot on Washington State Ferries<br />
in Anacortes for the one-hour crossing to Friday<br />
Harbor, I took out my binoculars to scan the Rosario<br />
Strait for stellar sea lions, harbor seals, harbor<br />
porpoises, humpbacks, minkes and orcas. Here’s<br />
how to make the most of whale watching<br />
on San Juan Island in forty-eight hours.<br />
Whale watching with Maya’s Legacy.<br />
94 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
trip planner<br />
Photo courtesy of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 95
trip planner<br />
Day<br />
SPOT WHALES AT LIME KILN POINT STATE PARK<br />
If you want to watch whales from shore, head up the west<br />
side of San Juan Island to Lime Kiln Point State Park.<br />
Pull out at the Westside Scenic P<strong>res</strong>erve for photo-ready<br />
180-degree views of Haro Strait, and beyond, the Olympic<br />
Mountains. Whales and marine life are frequently spotted<br />
from the half-mile stretch of rocky bluffs, greeting visitors<br />
who traverse the roughly fifteen-minute ride across the<br />
island from the ferry to the coast. Continue to wind along<br />
Westside Road another 3 miles until you reach Lime Kiln<br />
Point State Park, aka Whale Watch Park. Your best bet for<br />
seeing whales is to hunker down at one of the picnic tables<br />
along the short coastal hiking trail or near the centuryold<br />
lighthouse. It’s easy to while away a few hours over<br />
a book, packed lunch or board games. (I’ve logged many<br />
hours at this park and have been rewarded with marine life<br />
sightings, including the second confirmed sighting of a fin<br />
whale since 1930 last summer.) As you sit among the rustcolored<br />
Pacific Madrones, listen to the nearby Lime Kiln<br />
Hydrophone, which signals the p<strong>res</strong>ence of the Southern<br />
Resident Killer Whales. This extended family consists of<br />
three pods: J, K and L. The fragile population of eighty-two<br />
orcas is protected by the Endangered Species Act, and it<br />
feels like a privilege to be in their p<strong>res</strong>ence.<br />
Venture into the 1919 lighthouse and spend some time<br />
talking with volunteer Jeanne Hyde. Tours are available<br />
during the summer months. Hyde was a naturalist with<br />
Maya’s Legacy and has encyclopedic knowledge of the<br />
Southern Resident Killer Whales and the fragile surrounding<br />
marine ecosystem. In a recent conversation, she talked<br />
about the key role wild salmon habitats play in the survival<br />
of our beloved local population and the differences between<br />
the Southern Resident Killer Whales and Transients, or<br />
Bigg’s Killer Whales. The former are pescatarians with<br />
a fancy for Chinook salmon, while the latter are marine<br />
mammal hunters named for Michael Bigg, a Canadian<br />
marine biologist who first developed photo-identification<br />
techniques via dorsal fin markings. When I mentioned<br />
the sighting of a humpback the previous evening, Hyde<br />
played an audio file of another male humpback, the first<br />
one recorded singing in Haro Strait. She admitted she slept<br />
alongside the hydrophone so as to not miss any sounds<br />
throughout the night. The best time to see whales<br />
in nearby waters is from May to September.<br />
Photo courtesy of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />
Kathleen Ballard Jim Maya<br />
FROM TOP A killer whale breaches the water in Haro Strait. A<br />
century-old lighthouse at Kiln Point State Park. Points around San<br />
Juan Island offer views of whales and other marine life.<br />
96 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
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Discover the Season for Romance this winter in the beautiful San Juan Islands.<br />
Plan a relaxing spa getaway for two, an intimate Valentine’s celebration, an<br />
arm-in-arm walk on the beach. Or simply take the time to be together.<br />
LEARN MORE AT: VisitSanJuans.com/Romance<br />
Orcas Island • Lopez Island • San Juan Island / Friday Harbor
trip planner<br />
Photo courtesy of Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />
Day<br />
FIND ORCAS IN HARO STRAIT<br />
A whale appears in the water as Mt. Baker looms in the distance.<br />
During my annual one-week vacation on San<br />
Juan Island, my orca-obsessed crew spends two<br />
days on the water with Maya’s Legacy Whale<br />
Watching. I’ve gone out whale watching with<br />
many outfitters on San Juan Island, and these folks<br />
are my favorite. Launching from Snug Harbor,<br />
the small boats accommodate just six passengers.<br />
Maya’s Legacy has a brand new, slightly larger<br />
vessel that leaves from Friday Harbor, which<br />
is convenient for travelers without wheels.<br />
Compared to other whale-watching boats, it’s a<br />
far more intimate, interactive experience. Often<br />
there’s group input on whether to stay with a<br />
group of whales or move on to the next marine<br />
wildlife adventure.<br />
On a recent outing, Captain Alan Nikes<br />
and our naturalist, Rachael Mueller, a Ph.D.<br />
in physical oceanography, led us north out<br />
Haro Strait through Boundary Pass. We<br />
slipped between the Gulf Islands National Park<br />
P<strong>res</strong>erve, through Boat Pass into the Strait of<br />
Georgia and headed for the mouth of the Fraser<br />
River, where we’d been tipped off to Southern<br />
Resident Killer Whale sightings. Notably,<br />
80 to 90 percent of the Chinook salmon the<br />
Southern Resident Killer Whales consume<br />
in inland waters come from the Fraser River<br />
and its tributaries. There we found the J pod<br />
spread across a vast area, their mighty dorsal<br />
fins and polished black marble backs surfacing<br />
to share their location. Some orcas, including<br />
Oreo, mother to Cookie and DoubleStuf, were<br />
surfing the rolling waves of an oil tanker passing<br />
by, creating splash after splash. Others were<br />
swimming in small groups, exhibiting playful<br />
behavior, such as tail-slapping, pec-slapping,<br />
spy-hopping and breaching. The photo-ops<br />
were endless. At one point, we saw a mother roll<br />
on her back and raise a paddle-shaped pec fin<br />
to nurse her calf. We even spotted Polaris and<br />
her calf, Dipper, both of whose health had been<br />
called into recent speculation. Mama and son<br />
seemed to be faring okay. Then, curiosity got<br />
the best of one orca, who swam up alongside<br />
our boat. With majestic snow-capped Mount<br />
Baker looming in the background and a full<br />
moon rising, the J pod looked spectacular.<br />
If you haven’t spent time with orcas in the<br />
wild, there’s nothing like it. Audible b<strong>low</strong>s or<br />
the sound of an 8,000-pound male hitting the<br />
water is amazing. If you’re short on time, you<br />
can always take the forty-five minute Kenmore<br />
Air sea plane from Seattle’s Lake Union to<br />
Friday Harbor to go whale watching with San<br />
Juan Safaris. The three-hour tour is available<br />
from April through October.<br />
SAN JUAN ISLAND<br />
EAT<br />
Cask and Schooner<br />
Public House & Restaurant<br />
caskandschooner.com<br />
Blackfish Bistro & Martini Bar<br />
blackfishbistrosanjuan.com<br />
Backdoor Kitchen<br />
backdoorkitchen.com<br />
STAY<br />
Bird Rock Inn<br />
birdrockhotel.com<br />
Snug Harbor Resort<br />
snug<strong>res</strong>ort.com<br />
San Juan County Park<br />
sanjuanco.com<br />
PLAY<br />
The Whale Museum<br />
whalemuseum.org<br />
Outdoor Odysseys<br />
outdoorodysseys.com<br />
Hike Young Hill<br />
wta.org<br />
San Juan Island Distillery<br />
sanjuanislanddistillery.com<br />
Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching<br />
sanjuanislandwhalewatch.com<br />
Clipper Vacations<br />
clippervacations.com<br />
Schooners North<br />
sanjuansailcharter.com<br />
Sea Quest Expeditions<br />
sea-quest-kayak.com<br />
98 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
Call for Seasonal Specials!<br />
1-800-562-4862 thepolynesian.com<br />
Oceanfront Rooms & Suites<br />
Continental Breakfast<br />
Indoor Pool • Spa • Game Room<br />
Private Park • Pet-Friendly Rooms<br />
Mariah’s Restaurant, on site.<br />
OCEAN SHORES, WA
northwest destination<br />
Mt. Schweitzer and Sandpoint, Idaho<br />
Small town, big mountain, powder galore<br />
written by Alison Highberger<br />
Photography courtesy of Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />
FOR MOST SKIERS, SUN VALLEY is synonymous<br />
with Idaho skiing. Two hours northeast of<br />
Spokane, Schweitzer Mountain Resort in<br />
Idaho’s panhandle is bigger by a third and closer<br />
to many <strong>res</strong>idents in the Pacific Northwest.<br />
Schweitzer’s privately owned 2,900 skiable<br />
ac<strong>res</strong> unfold in the Selkirks near Sandpoint,<br />
Idaho, a city of 7,500 that was voted the<br />
most beautiful small town in America by USA<br />
Today and Rand McNally five years ago. The<br />
combination of big mountain and small town<br />
makes it a spectacular place to enjoy a winter<br />
weekend getaway.<br />
Schweitzer’s mountaintop village, located<br />
near the ten lifts and tows for its ninety-two<br />
runs and 30 kilometers of Nordic ski trails,<br />
offers ski-in, ski-out lodging, <strong>res</strong>taurants, shops<br />
and a spa. With an average of 300 inches of<br />
snow each winter, there’s also snowboarding,<br />
tubing, snowshoeing, fat-tire snow-biking,<br />
snowmobiling and heli skiing.<br />
A skier dives into f<strong>res</strong>h powder at Mt. Schweitzer.<br />
100 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
northwest destination<br />
A skier enjoys the 2,900 ac<strong>res</strong> of skiable terrain at Schweitzer Mountain Resort.<br />
“We’re lucky because of the way the<br />
weather comes in from the west,” said Dig<br />
Chrismer, Schweitzer marketing manager.<br />
“Our snow is definitely a lighter consistency.<br />
A lot of our guests who ski here after skiing<br />
near Seattle are very happy.”<br />
In mid-December, Schweitzer debuted a<br />
new lodge at the 6,400-foot summit, giving<br />
skiers, snowboarders and non-skiers a high<br />
altitude spot to eat and relax. The Great<br />
Escape Quad lift will offer quick access<br />
to the new lodge and expansive views of<br />
the Selkirk and Cabinet mountain ranges.<br />
The 43-mile-long Lake Pend Oreille is in<br />
the distant valley (pronounced “Pond-or-<br />
RAY” from the French for “hanging ear”<br />
or “earring”). It’s the fifth deepest lake in<br />
the United States, and was home to the<br />
Kalispel, Kootenai and Coeur d’Alene<br />
tribes who first inhabited this region.<br />
Sandpoint, 12 miles away, offers more<br />
options for lodging. It’s a walkable, turnof-the<br />
century downtown, with a history of<br />
logging and mining. In the late 1880s the<br />
Great Northern Railroad spurred its growth.<br />
Sandpoint’s collection of galleries and<br />
boutique shops can keep non-skiers busy for<br />
the weekend.<br />
A 6-foot wooden moose greets visitors at<br />
Northwest Handmade Furniture & Gallery on<br />
the main drag, North First Street, which has<br />
shops that sell rustic furniture and handmade<br />
arts and crafts. Ski shops stock winter clothing<br />
or gear. The twenty-year-old Pend d’Oreille<br />
Winery has a tasting room in town with pours<br />
of their all-Idaho-made chardonnay.<br />
Sandpoint has a handful of <strong>res</strong>taurants<br />
that range from Thai and sushi to Mexican<br />
and Italian. Decade-old Mick Duff’s Brewing<br />
Company serves beer cheese soup year-round,<br />
made from its own Knot Tree Porter. This<br />
brewery is also known for homemade root beer<br />
floats. Trinity at City Beach flaunts its pecancrusted<br />
chicken salad tossed with maplechipotle<br />
vinaigrette, accompanied by views of<br />
the lake and mountains. Panhandle Cone and<br />
Coffee’s house-made ice cream flavors include<br />
Pumpkin Pie and Honey Chai Praline.<br />
For a romantic evening or a novelty for<br />
the kids, book a horse-drawn sleigh at<br />
Western Pleasure Guest Ranch, 26 miles<br />
from Schweitzer. A half-hour ride with<br />
views of the Selkirk Range is warmed with<br />
hot chocolate and popcorn by the fire at the<br />
ranch’s rustic lodge.<br />
The combination of Schweitzer Mountain<br />
and Sandpoint bring together winter fun in<br />
the northern Selkirks and small town charm<br />
for an engaging winter vacation itinerary.<br />
MT. SCHWEITZER AND SANDPOINT, IDAHO<br />
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK<br />
Trinity at City Beach<br />
trinityatcitybeach.com<br />
Mick Duff’s Brewing Company<br />
mickduffs.com<br />
Pend d’Oreille Winery<br />
powine.com<br />
Panhandle Cone & Coffee<br />
panhandleconeandcoffee.com<br />
Chimney Rock Grill<br />
schweitzer.com/dining/chimey-rock-grill<br />
Gourmandie<br />
schweitzer.com/dining/gourmandie<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Best Western Edgewater Resort<br />
sandpointhotels.com<br />
Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />
Selkirk Lodge & White Pine Lodge<br />
schweitzer.com<br />
Western Pleasure Guest Ranch<br />
westernpleasureranch.com<br />
WHERE TO PLAY<br />
Ski and Snowboard<br />
Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />
schweitzer.com<br />
Sandpoint Winter Carnival<br />
(<strong>Feb</strong> 10-21)<br />
sandpointwintercarnival.com<br />
Snowshoe at Priest Lake<br />
priestlake.org<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 101
5TH GENERATION WHEAT FARMER.<br />
1ST GENERATION INNOVATOR.<br />
WALLA WALLA WINEMAKER.<br />
Rick Small | Woodward Canyon Winery<br />
It takes more than terroir and climate to make great wine. Walla Walla is home<br />
to dozens of family-run wineries dedicated to creating some of the world’s finest,<br />
earning our place in Wine Enthusiast’s “2014 Ten Best Wine Travel Destinations”.<br />
VisitWallaWalla.com<br />
Fly from Walla Walla and check your first case of wine for free! TasteAndTote.com
<strong>1889</strong> MAPPED<br />
The points of inte<strong>res</strong>t be<strong>low</strong> are culled from<br />
stories and events in this edition of <strong>1889</strong>.<br />
Oroville<br />
Forks<br />
Friday Harbor<br />
Port Angeles Coupeville<br />
Port<br />
Townsend<br />
Bellingham<br />
Mount Vernon<br />
Lakewood<br />
Marysville<br />
Everett<br />
Okanogan<br />
Republic<br />
Colville<br />
Newport<br />
Aberdeen<br />
South<br />
Bend<br />
Shelton<br />
Montesano<br />
Port Orchard<br />
Cathlamet<br />
Longview<br />
Olympia<br />
Chehalis<br />
Kelso<br />
Seattle<br />
Bellevue<br />
Renton<br />
Kent<br />
Federal Way<br />
Tacoma<br />
Ellensburg<br />
Yakima<br />
Waterville<br />
Wenatchee<br />
Ephrata<br />
Prosser<br />
Richland<br />
Pasco<br />
Wilbur<br />
Kennewick<br />
Ritzville<br />
Dayton<br />
Walla<br />
Walla<br />
Davenport<br />
Spokane<br />
Colfax<br />
Pomeroy<br />
Asotin<br />
Vancouver<br />
Stevenson<br />
Goldendale<br />
Live<br />
Think<br />
Explore<br />
20<br />
WOW Chocolates<br />
52<br />
Arzeda Corporation<br />
84<br />
Hisey Park<br />
21<br />
Washington State History Museum<br />
54<br />
Swiss Hotel Leavenworth<br />
86<br />
Snoqualmie Pass<br />
28<br />
Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant<br />
56<br />
University of Washington<br />
92<br />
Hotel Monaco<br />
30<br />
Country Boy’s BBQ<br />
58<br />
Mt. Baker Ski Patrol<br />
96<br />
Lime Kiln Point State Park<br />
32<br />
Hama Hama Company<br />
60<br />
Salaam Cultural Museum<br />
100 Schweitzer Mountain Resort<br />
Idaho<br />
FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 103
Until Next Time<br />
My Mother’s Gift<br />
written by Velda R. Wilson<br />
I HAD NEVER SEEN THE TWO LIQUOR BOXES BEFORE,<br />
sealed with duct tape so old the edges had become brittle, browned<br />
and cracked. More duct tape covered the suitcase I recognized as<br />
belonging to my grandmother. I had found them buried deep in the<br />
back of my mother’s closet as I packed up her tiny apartment after<br />
she lost her battle with cancer in 2009.<br />
She had always hinted she had some “family stuff,” just a few old<br />
photos, and a couple of things that had belonged to her grandmother,<br />
Maye. What was in those dusty old liquor boxes and that faded green<br />
suitcase from the ’60s took my breath away. Hundreds of sepiatoned<br />
photographs of men, women and children. They were holding<br />
babies, logging and farming, working and eating lunch in the apple<br />
orchards of Wenatchee. Huge groups of people all standing in front<br />
of churches, schools and farmhouses. A lot of these photographs<br />
bore the same handwriting, notating names, places, and dates as<br />
early as 1908. There were journals stamped with years dating back to<br />
the 1930s, some still with glints of gold embossing on their covers.<br />
A newspaper clipping told of how Mrs. Laura Bolyard, the first<br />
“Hello” girl in the Lake Chelan area, had moved to Monroe to be<br />
closer to her daughter, Mrs. Maye Eighme, my great-grandmother.<br />
The article told of how Laura had come in 1900 as Henry’s bride<br />
and “operated the first switchboard after her husband established<br />
FROM LEFT Maye Ellen and Earl Eighme, circa<br />
1919. Sharon Rose Barrow. Velda Mae Eighme.<br />
the first phone service, a line from Chelan Landing to Chelan that<br />
was later extended to Union Valley, and included twenty customers.”<br />
I read further and found it was Henry who had “named Union<br />
Valley, was instrumental in getting the first post office, Hobson, and<br />
later worked as a contractor and mason.” Suffering the loss of their<br />
2½-year-old daughter, Thirsa, on May 26, 1907, they still managed to<br />
have twelve children survive them, with Henry passing first in 1952<br />
and Laura in 1968, shortly before I was born.<br />
Henry’s mother and father, Holtsberry and Anne Bolyard,<br />
formerly of West Virginia, had been among the first homesteaders<br />
the year after Washington gained statehood. Listing his death as<br />
December 24, 1932, the obituary on findagrave.com for “Holtsberry<br />
Creed Bolyard, pioneer” stated, “The pall bearers, all pioneers of this<br />
section were. Thom. Pattison, Elmer Boyd, C. C. Campbell, Don C.<br />
Mathers, R. N. Smith and A. S. Province.”<br />
When I opened those old boxes and that green suitcase from the<br />
’60s, I sat back on my heels in amazement. Her final gift had not<br />
only made sure to give me all the clues I needed to find more family<br />
so I wouldn’t be alone after her death, but gave me the project of a<br />
lifetime organizing the 20 or so pounds of family history that, as it<br />
turns out, was also a part of Washington’s history, too.<br />
Thanks, Mama, for the best gift ever.<br />
104 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2017
This is Our<br />
Happy Hour<br />
VISITWENATCHEE.ORG
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