1889 October | November 2018

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October | November volume 11

You’re
Welcome
...here.
Step into the Urban Wine Tour.
A wonderfully walkable wine experience.
Taste them all - we don’t judge.
visitspokane.com | #lovespokane

FEATURES
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 • volume 11
58
Wind Wranglers
Every year, Long Beach
transforms during the
weeklong Washington State
International Kite Festival.
photography by
Kate Daigneault
46
Tripping Over Washington
Wine Country
We scoured the state for the
best wine-tasting experiences
around Washington, from big-city
views to island life.
written by Viki Eierdam
52
Preserving the Past
The complicated legacy of Hanford
lives on thanks to a national park
and other history initiatives.
written by Sheila G. Miller
Kate Daigneault
A couple looks out at the
Washington State International
Kite Festival from nearby dunes.

Alaska
Awakening
Just you and a few locals—Sitka deer, bears, moose, seals, sea otter
pups, and migrating birds and whales. Peaks covered in snow. Budding
forests. Northern lights and rainbows. Waterfalls rush, meltwaters flow,
and calving glaciers send bergy bits on their merry way. For many,
April and May is their favorite time of year.
small ships, BIG adventures
KAYAK l HIKE l SKIFF l CULTURE l WILDLIFE
7-, 8- & 14-night adventure cruises • 22 to 90 guests • Apr-Sep
888-862-8881
UnCruise.com

74
DEPARTMENTS
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 • volume 11
LIVE
14 SAY WA?
Get into the fall spirit with Thanksgiving in Wine Country and other
autumn events. Then, take a page from Nancy Blakey’s new book
and get outside for an adventure or two.
18 FOOD + DRINK
McMenamins’ Kalama Harbor Lodge serves up all the charm,
Rachel’s Ginger Beer provides an alternative treat, plus our picks for
the best places for coffee around the state.
22 FARM TO TABLE
Pass the cranberry relish—hopefully made with berries from
Washington’s cranberry bogs in Grayland.
26 HOME + DESIGN
Two designers merge form and function to create beautiful, liveable
tiny homes.
Fire & Vine Hospitality
21 68
32 MIND + BODY
Like father, like son—the Millimans are gold-medal winners at the
National Senior Games.
34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Mary Beth Beuke makes one-of-a-kind jewelry creations through her
company, West Coast Sea Glass.
THINK
38 STARTUP
Search no more for a pet-sitter. Seattle’s Rover comes to the rescue.
Through Stories
Justin Bailie
10
11
86
88
Editor’s Letter
1889 Online
Map of Washington
Until Next Time
40 WHAT’S GOING UP
New wine-tasting options pop up around the state.
41 WHAT I’M WORKING ON
Dr. Darryl Potok talks medical education in Spokane.
42 MY WORKSPACE
UnCruise Adventures’ Sue Rooney says she has the best job in the
world—and we can’t disagree.
44 GAME CHANGER
Water from Wine sells wine to pay for worldwide clean-water projects.
EXPLORE
66 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT
Federal Way’s Pacific Bonsai Museum presents its bonsai as fine
art pieces.
68 ADVENTURE
Join a novice on a charter salmon-fishing trip along the Columbia River.
74 LODGING
Eritage Resort is an adults-only oasis in Walla Walla, just right for the
wine lover in your life.
76 TRIP PLANNER
Walla Walla is a southeastern Washington charmer with more than
just wine to please the palate.
COVER
photo courtesy of Alexandria Nicole Cellars
(see Tripping Over Washington Wine Country, pg. 46)
82 NORTHWEST DESTINATION
Southern Oregon is the state’s other wine country, and its small towns
hide local bounty and cultural experiences.
6 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

theevocative
Truffles
are
delicious
Oregon’s Winter
Food, Wine,
Truffle Hunting,
and Marketplace
Extravaganza
The Joriad
North American
Truffle Dog Championship
January 24, 2019
Eugene and
Willamette Valley
Truffle Country
January 25 – 27, 2019
Yamhill Valley
Wine Country
February 15 – 17, 2019
TICKETS
oregontrufflefestival.org
sensual
coming...
angela estate | eugene cascades and coast | food for lane county | hilton eugene | j. scott cellars | king estate | mountain rose herbs
new world truffieres | oregon culinary institute | oregon wine press | provisions market hall | red hills market | travel oregon | viking braggot co.

CONTRIBUTORS
LAURA CHERAU
Writer
Adventure
After watching so many people
fish on the Columbia River for
years and years, I decided to
try my luck on opening day
of Buoy 10. I will admit I was
a total novice in the fishing
department. With no experience
whatsoever, would chartering
a very fast boat be any fun? Of
course. Is it worth it to get out
there and try something new? It
totally is.
(pg. 68)
JUSTIN BAILIE
Photographer
Adventure
Astoria, Oregon, is one of my
favorite places to photograph.
It’s a beautiful town with so
much history, and most of it
came to be because of the
Columbia River and salmon.
Since I grew up in the area, the
guide and I knew many of the
same people and had a great
time talking about our home.
And even though we didn’t
catch a lot of fish, the weather
was about as good as it gets.
(pg. 68)
VIKI EIERDAM
Writer
Tripping Over Washington
Wine Country
Exploring a hobby or interest
along the road adds another
layer to the travel experience,
and the geographic diversity
of Washington is a wine lover’s
playground. From urban wineries
in a bustling city to a mountain
town slathered in European
charm, Washington is brimming
with adventures between the
vines. Here’s hoping you have
as much fun as I did seeking out
fresh ways to savor wine.
(pg. 46)
KATE DAIGNEAULT
Photographer
Gallery
I’ve been to Long Beach quite a
few times, but the Kite Festival
makes it come alive. I love how
it attracts kite enthusiasts of
all levels and from all over.
Everyone proudly flies their
favorite kites, whether they are
competing or not. It makes for
such a surreal scene having
the sky filled with colorful
shapes and characters. The
choreographed kite ballet is my
favorite, and the large kite field
just can’t be missed.
(pg. 58)
8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

EDITOR
MANAGING EDITOR
CREATIVE
MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER
OFFICE MANAGER
DIRECTOR OF SALES
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
BEERVANA COLUMNIST
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Kevin Max
Sheila G. Miller
Allison Bye
Kelly Rogers
Cindy Miskowiec
Jenny Kamprath
Cindy Guthrie
Jenn Redd
Jackie Dodd
Melissa Dalton, Cheryl Dimof, Viki Eierdam, Catie Joyce-Bulay,
Lauren Kramer, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Cara Strickland,
Chad Walsh, Corinne Whiting
Justin Bailie, Kate Daigneault, Gemina Garland-Lewis
Statehood Media
Mailing Address
70 SW Century Dr.
Suite 100-218
Bend, Oregon 97702
Portland Address
1801 NW Upshur St.
Suite 100
Portland, Oregon 97209
1889mag.com/subscribe
@1889washington
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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE
EDITOR
WELCOME TO THE 1889 fall wine issue. I
don’t have problems associating good wine with
all seasons, personally, but fall is the harvest and
crush, the barrel tasting and the season to do it
all in proper attire.
Washington has so many world-class wineries
and winemakers that it’s necessary to find a
single organizing thread within this vast class to
pursue. In this issue, we seek a cross-section of
the state’s most scenic wineries—from Lummi
Island to Vancouver to Woodinville, Yakima to
Walla Walla. After all, wine is an experience,
and how and where you have it become a part of
your overall first impression. (If you can’t make
it out to one of our scenic wineries, you can go
local. What’s Going Up on page 40 reveals three
new wine cellars and bars in Woodinville, West
Richland and on Mercer Island.)
Our Trip Planner and Northwest Destination
pieces are both centered on wine-growing
regions, too. Trip Planner (page 76) will bring
new reasons to visit Walla Walla. Northwest
Destination (page 82) takes us down south to
Southern Oregon’s Applegate, Rogue and Illinois
valleys, where hidden-gem wineries are tucked back in the hills.
Farmer and winemaker Pat Tucker talks to us about using
wine for a higher cause. In Game Changer on page 44, we
delve Tucker’s devotion of 6 acres of wine to nonprofits that
help provide people with clean water. In its first harvest under
this program in 2014, Water for Wine donated 100 percent of
proceeds of 984 cases.
Over on the coast, we wade into cranberry bogs in Grayland
alongside cranberry farmer Matt Reichenberger. The second
week of October brings Grayland’s cranberry harvest, the
Cranberry Harvest Festival and the cranberry cook-off. If you
can’t make it out for this event, support Washington cranberry
growers by buying Washington cranberries and trying one of
our recipes (on page 25) this holiday season.
One of the more intriguing stories of the issue lies in the
pages of Small Wonders on page 26. We get an inside look at
two innovative tiny houses in Olympia and Wenatchee whose
designers have made the tiny movement big.
My favorite of this issue, however, has nothing to do with
wine or small homes, but a relic of WWII. This is a fascinating
piece about the history of the Hanford Nuclear Site and its
plutonium-production role in the Manhattan Project. As one of
three secret sites working in tandem to harness nuclear fission
for the bombs that would end WWII, Hanford is an interesting
piece of world history that has been preserved as a National
Historic Park, with tours for the public. “I think by studying the
past, we get a better sense for the present,” observed Atomic
Heritage Foundation president, Cindy Kelly.
Perhaps now more than ever, the past holds keys to
understanding our present. Cheers!
10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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Mt. Rainier
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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11

SAY WA? 14
FOOD + DRINK 18
FARM TO TABLE 22
Gemina Garland-Lewis
HOME + DESIGN 26
MIND + BODY 32
ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 34
pg. 22
Washington cranberries are a perfect fall flavor.

2019
As You Like It
By William Shakespeare
Directed by Rosa Joshi
Tickets on
Sale Starting
November 2018
Angus Bowmer Theatre
Hairspray
The Broadway Musical
Book by Mark O’Donnell and Thomas Meehan
Music by Marc Shaiman
Lyrics by Scott Wittman and Marc Shaiman
Based on the New Line Cinema film written
and directed by John Waters
Directed by Christopher Liam Moore
Mother Road
By Octavio Solis
Directed by Bill Rauch
World Premiere
Indecent
By Paula Vogel
Directed by Shana Cooper
American Revolutions
Cambodian Rock Band
By Lauren Yee
Featuring songs by Dengue Fever
Directed by Chay Yew
Thomas Theatre
Between Two Knees
By the 1491s
Directed by Eric Ting
World Premiere/American Revolutions
How to Catch Creation
By Christina Anderson
Directed by Nataki Garrett
Allen Elizabethan Theatre
Macbeth
By William Shakespeare
Directed by José Luis Valenzuela
Alice in Wonderland
By Eva Le Gallienne and Florida Friebus
Adapted from Lewis Carroll
Directed by Sara Bruner
All’s Well That Ends Well
By William Shakespeare
Directed by Tracy Young
Pilot Community Visit Project
La Comedia of Errors
Bilingual Play on! translation by Luis Alfaro
Directed by Bill Rauch
2019 opening weekend: March 8 – 10
Playbill subject to change
March 1 – October 27
Artistic Director
Bill Rauch
Executive Director
Cynthia Rider
www.osfashland.org
1.800.219.8161
Two World Premieres
and one short play about
a long separation
Oklahoma! (2018): Royer Bockus, Tatiana
Wechsler. Photo by Jenny Graham.

say wa?
mark your
calendar
Tidbits & To-dos
Bee Bar Lotion
These decorative tins from Honey House
Naturals contain a lotion that is incredibly longlasting—six
months to be exact. Simply warm
the Bee Bar Lotion up in your hands and enjoy.
Packed with rich emollients and essential oils, it’s
the perfect thing to have on hand as the weather
turns colder.
www.honeyhousenaturals.com
Pumpkin Bash
Celebrate Halloween this year at the Woodland Park Zoo
for the annual Pumpkin Bash on October 27 and 28. This
family-friendly event gets the zoo animals playing with
their very own pumpkins as part of an ongoing enrichment
program. See tigers, bears, hippos, lemurs and many more
smash, stomp and roll their pumpkin toys. There will also be
trick-or-treating for kids. One child 12 or under in costume
gets free admission with a paying adult.
www.zoo.org/events
mark your
calendar
Northwest Chocolate Festival
The Northwest Chocolate Festival is the premier
event to attend if you have a sweet tooth. There
are chocolate exhibits on display with more than
eighty tasting workshops, a 21-and-over lounge,
and a chocolate factory. Pick out a few holiday
gifts while you’re there and be sure to sample the
beer, wine and spirits.
www.nwchocolate.com
14 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

say wa?
Halfpops
Thanksgiving in Wine Country
Celebrate Thanksgiving weekend in Washington wine country this year, November
23-25. Many wineries throughout the Yakima Valley will offer special tastings, food
pairings, live music and special holiday deals. Find out from winemakers and chefs
which wines pair best with seasonal and traditional favorites.
www.yakimavalleywinecountry.com
mark your
calendar
Are you the type of person who
loves when the popcorn is almost
gone so you can eat the halfpopped
corn in the bottom of
the bowl? This Seattle company
created a snack that is just
that. We’re just wondering why
no one thought of this sooner.
Halfpops is sold in specialty
markets around Washington and
is available in seven tasty flavors.
www.halfpops.com
Spiced Cider Mix
MarketSpice has a new product just in
time for fall—its very own blend of mulling
spices with allspice, orange peel, cinnamon
and cloves. Enjoy this blend as a traditional
spiced cider or use it as the perfect base for
your hot spiced wine recipe.
www.marketspice.com
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15

say wa?
Janet Allison
Musician
Dream Team
Jazz stars unite to make music
written by Ben Salmon
THIS FALL, Washington jazz luminaries Jay Thomas and
Oliver Groenewald will release a new album, I Always Knew,
powered by Groenewald’s “little big band,” NewNet.
It took a confluence of circumstances for the work to
even exist. First, the two had to meet many years ago,
when Groenewald, a native of Germany, was engaged in
post-graduate work in the United States. Then, five years
ago, Groenewald—a trumpeter, composer and arranger—
contacted his old friend Thomas about gathering players to
perform some of his works.
Thomas—one of Seattle’s finest saxophonists—called the
“best guys in the area,” he said, and jumped at the chance to
play Groenewald’s music.
“I love Oliver’s arranging so much,” he said, “and I have been
thinking on an ambitious project for some time.”
Thomas’ father had been encouraging him to do an album
of ballads, he said, and with Groenewald on board—as well as
his elegant arrangements that give sturdy American jazz some
effortless European flavor—it seemed like the time was right.
“(With ballads), the trick is to have it be strong and exciting
as well as lyrical and soulful, with sections that are faster and
higher and louder,” Thomas said. “I chose some songs that are
lesser known because I love them.”
Thomas, Groenewald and the rest of NewNet spent a
couple days recording at Robert Lang Studios in Shoreline.
“The old-fashioned way,” Thomas said. “All in the same room
and no headphones.”
The result is twelve tracks of sumptuous, swinging jazz,
including Dexter Gordon’s “Ernie’s Tune,” Hoagy Carmichael’s
“Stardust” and Duke Ellington’s “Blue Serge.” All but one are
arranged by Groenewald, who also contributed a couple
original songs.
“The tapestries of sound that Oliver constructed are
amazing and unique and different, like Gil Evans mixed with
Stravinsky, and never interfering with my train of thought
as an improviser,” Thomas said. “They sound mature, and
the music has a vibe that is a result of the band’s collective
experience, and of course a love of the music, respect for each
other and the joy of creating something new together.”
MORE ONLINE
For more information and to find upcoming concerts, head to
www.jaythomasjazz.com and www.olivergroenewald.com
16 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

say wa?
Bibliophile
On the Wild Side
New book wants to make
outdoors accessible to all
interview by Sheila G. Miller
NANCY BLAKEY wants you to get outside.
Damn the rain—just go for it.
Blakey, a mother of four, wrote five
books based on a syndicated column called
Mudpies, which she wrote for Seattle’s Child.
In the books, she came up with interesting
activities kids could do instead of watching TV
or playing video games.
“I believe in benign neglect,” she said of her
way of raising children. “All the projects I ever
saw, you had to do with the kids. They felt fussy,
and you had to show the kids what to do and
supervise them. My philosophy was just sort
of hands off, which is what true creativity is.”
Her new book, By The Shore: Explore the
Pacific Northwest Coast Like A Local, which
came out in May, is a similar approach,
just for grownups. The book gives readers
ideas for accessing the outdoors and the
wilderness, season by season, with activities,
advice and recipes.
“My ideal reader is a couch potato who’s
kind of restless,” Blakey said. “A lot of people
are super outdoorsy, and those people may
enjoy the book. But my goal is, I really want to
get people outside.”
Nick Hall
What was the research for this
book like?
When I was first asked to propose
the book, I said, ‘I don’t want to do
a typical guidebook—I don’t want
to do Fodor’s. I want to do polar
bear plunges and beach fires.
Sasquatch Books was great—they
let me run with it and gave me free
rein. So I just put in there things I
wanted to do, or things I wanted
to explore, or things I had already
done that I wanted to share with
others. I’ve always been pretty
outdoorsy, but that had slid away.
You just get buried with work and
kids. I had this light bulb after
meeting a woman who said, ‘Oh
you live on Bainbridge Island? You
must be hiking and kayaking all the
time.’ It was kind of embarrassing.
So I began exploring and hiking. I
live in Alaska in the summers, and
the backcountry is so unforgiving
that it’s made me a pretty astute
outdoors person. You have to
know what you’re doing. So I
brought that into my book.
How did you settle on the
format? I love the way you give
advice.
The idea actually came from my
editor, Hannah Elnan. This book
is technically geared toward
millennials. One of them wanted
to go salmon fishing but didn’t
know where to start and didn’t
want to appear stupid. So we
came up with this idea of a
guidebook. All these people
have come to Seattle or the
Pacific Northwest, so Hannah
suggested, ‘How about you guide
us? How about you teach us?’
The back story is my husband
died suddenly five years ago.
He was delivering a motorcycle
to Loreto in Baja Mexico and
he had a heart attack. I was
blindsided, and my whole family
spent a couple years reeling. The
book absolutely was one of the
things that brought me back to
the things I love, and to life again.
The outdoors has always been
a real consolation to me, and to
take family members and friends
and do the research tailored to
whoever I was with and what they
were interested in really brought
me out of that gray zone and
showed me that the world was
still waiting. I have years ahead
of me, hopefully, and the book
was really instrumental for me. It
brought me back around.
What was your favorite
adventure you did for the book?
Solo hiking has always interested
me, and I’d done a night here and
a night there solo. But it’s kind of
daunting as a woman to go by
yourself. I really, really wanted to
do it. It was part of my healing
to get out there and face it with
squared shoulders. Men do it all
the time and nobody blinks, but
a woman does it, and it’s like, ‘Oh
no!’ I did The Juan de Fuca Trail on
Vancouver Island. It was incredible,
it was daunting, it was hard. I got
muddy and bruised, but I just
really loved it. Plus, I did it—now
I can do it without blinking. Just
like any endeavor, you put one
foot in front of another. I don’t
think anyone ever goes outside
and comes back in and says, ‘Oh, I
wish I hadn’t done that.’
How do you hope people use
your book?
I hope it feels accessible. My
intention is to make the outdoors
accessible for everyone, a family
or a 30-something or a boomer. I
want the book to scale up or scale
down. I think it’s really important
for people to understand that
spending time outdoors is one of
the most valuable things they can
do for their wellbeing. More and
more research is showing that
the outdoors is, in a way, critical
to our sense of contentment and
de-stressing.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17

food + drink
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Beers on
tap include Kalama-only offerings.
Views of the Columbia River abound.
Totem poles have been on site for
more than forty years. Ahles Point
cabin is a cozy spot for a drink.
Beervana
The Clamor in Kalama
written and photographed by Jackie Dodd
KALAMA IS A small rail town and a shipping port that’s
easy to pass without notice. Charming even from a distance
but forgettable once you’ve reached your final stop, the
small town of Kalama is now officially “destination worthy.”
With their signature combination of upcycled antiques
and local artisan creations, the McMenamin brothers have
brought the familiar stay-and-play hotel chain to a quietly
captivating stretch of the Columbia River, just fortyfive
minutes north of Portland. Kalama Harbor Lodge is
absolutely worth any effort it takes to get there.
In some ways, it’s exactly what you’re used to, and in
other ways, it’s a perfect step forward for the booze-andlodging
brand. The beer, wine and food are what you
expect—they won’t change the world but will make you
full and content. After all, no one can really be mad with a
full pint of a well-hopped beer and plate of Cajun tater tots.
The beer is both exactly the same core pours you’ve had at
every location, as well as a healthy amount of impressive
just-for-Kalama beer offerings (I’d recommend asking
what’s new and limited release). The property is more
beautiful than most of the renovated schoolhouses in the
McMenamins portfolio, yet full of artfully crafted and wellplaced
touches that sit like secrets waiting to be discovered.
Two hidden passageways exist, concealed in plain sight
behind paneled walls in different hallways, lovely murals
depicting historical events adorn the walls throughout the
grounds, and the architectural aesthetic was built to honor
the Hawaiian heritage of the town’s founder, John Kalama.
The property is one you’d do well to get lost in, grab and
a pint and just wander the grounds. Cloud Bar, perched on
top of the hotel, is the perfect place to start with views of
the river not rivaled within 100 miles. From there (once
you’ve located the secret passageways, of course), wander
just south, past the three sky-scraping totem poles, along a
sleepy little well-paved path to a small cabin on the shore.
It’s not just any cabin, of course, it’s Ahles Point, the coziest
place to enjoy a pint on the shores of the Columbia. A
wood-burning fireplace, a small bar that seats only a few
patrons, and a couple small tables are all you’ll find, making
it the perfect place to enjoy a few beers and chat up the
bartenders.
It’s far enough away from the hustle of Seattle or Portland
to feel like you’re on vacation, but it’s just a short drive,
leaving you with a feeling of being a million miles away yet
right at home. In a way, it’s like adult summer camp. The
other lodgers don’t travel too far during their stay. You’ll
see them again at the restaurants during meal times. On
the shore are water activities, and it’s not unusual to hear
singing and merriment once the sun goes down. People are
friendly and easy to meet, the beer is cold and well-made,
and even when the service is slow, you remember that’s
because life is slow here, and that’s exactly why you came
in the first place.
18 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

food + drink
Cocktail Card
recipe courtesy of
Heritage Distilling Company
Brown Sugar
Bourbon Horchata
2 ounces Heritage Distilling brown
sugar bourbon
1 ounce horchata
½ ounce cream of coconut
Orange slice, for garnish
Grated cinnamon, for garnish
Pour all ingredients over ice and
stir to mix. Garnish with orange
and grated cinnamon.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19

food + drink
CRAVINGS
BAKED GOODS
There’s really nothing like a
piece of quiche from Brown
Bear Baking—the contents
are always changing. It’s worth
getting there early in the day to
make sure they don’t sell out
and to get a great selection on
all of the housemade pastries
and goodies.
29 NORTH BEACH ROAD #1966
EASTSOUND
www.facebook.com/BrownBearBaking
BAVARIAN FOOD
Enjoy German sausages
(including a vegetarian option)
along with craft beer in a fun,
festive setting at München Haus.
Top your sausages with a large
assortment of mustard options,
and don’t forget the cider kraut!
709 FRONT STREET
LEAVENWORTH
www.munchenhaus.com
Gastronomy
Rachel’s Ginger Beer
written by Cara Strickland
FROM THE SEATTLE farmers markets to a spot in Pike’s Place Market and
distribution all over the place (you can buy it on the website if no one stocks it
locally), this company is a Washington success story. One sip will tell you why
this delicious concoction has caught on. Founder Rachel Marshall was inspired
to develop her product after living in Europe for several years after college. She’d
never had traditional ginger beer before, but she was hooked and wanted to share
what she’d found. Once back in the States, she went to work dialing in a recipe for
her classic brew, later expanding to seasonal flavors as well. Now, there are four
locations where you can fill a growler, get a Moscow Mule, or just sip straight
ginger beer. But the company hasn’t forgotten its roots—you’ll still find RGB at the
farmers markets.
1530 POST ALLEY (FIND OTHER LOCATIONS ONLINE)
SEATTLE
www.rachelsgingerbeer.com
Rachel’s Ginger Beer has four locations in Seattle and Portland.
PORT-STYLE WINE
Wander over to the Gilbert
Cellars tasting room and
treat yourself to a sip of the
non-vintage port-style wine,
made from favorite vintages of
tempranillo (what the Portuguese
call “Tinta Roriz”). It’s a lovely way
to end a meal.
5 NORTH FRONT STREET,
SUITE 100
YAKIMA
www.gilbertcellars.com
TOMATO BASIL
BISQUE
There’s nothing quite as
comfortingly decadent as a
hot bowl of tomato basil bisque,
and Gunnar’s nails it. Pick up
a cup of coffee or a sandwich
while you’re there, or browse
the natural market.
811 HIGHWAY 970, SUITE #6
CLE ELUM
www.gunnarscommunity.com
20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

food + drink
BEST PLACES FOR
COFFEE
OLYMPIA COFFEE
ROASTING COMPANY
Hip surroundings mean nothing
if the coffee doesn’t deliver—but
that’s just not the case here. Enjoy a
variety of expertly roasted coffee—
at the downtown location, you can
watch roasting happen while you do.
600 4TH AVENUE EAST
OLYMPIA
www.olympiacoffee.com
(check website for other locations in
Olympia, Tacoma, and West Seattle)
SUNSHINE DRIP
COFFEE LOUNGE
This Whidbey Island spot makes a
smooth, satisfying latte and doubles
as a gift shop. Enjoy light food
options as well for a quick breakfast
or lunch.
306 NORTH MAIN STREET
COUPEVILLE
www.facebook.com/sunshinedrip
MONORAIL ESPRESSO
Famous the world over for being
the first-ever espresso cart,
Monorail now has three locations
to meet your coffee needs. It’s been
delivering high-quality coffee since
1980, adding homemade flavors
(such as the delicious rose syrup)
and baked goods along the way.
510 PIKE STREET
SEATTLE
www.facebook.com/monorailespresso117657621584837
(Additional locations in Westlake and
Columbia Center)
VESSEL
COFFEE ROASTERS
This cool spot roasts coffee on site,
and its baristas are just waiting to
share their coffee passion with you.
Check out the housemade shrubs
for a non-caffeinated treat.
2823 NORTH MONROE STREET
SPOKANE
www.vesselroasters.com
Photos: Through Stories
Dining
Cochinito Taqueria
written by Cara Strickland
TRAVIS DICKINSON and Justin Curtis met while working together at
Spokane favorite Clover. Dickinson was the chef and Curtis ran the front of
the house. When they teamed up to start their own chef-made taqueria in
downtown Spokane, complete with housemade tortillas and a commitment to
seasonal, local ingredients made at a fine-dining level, it was bound to be good.
Dickinson drew on the food tradition he married into—his wife is originally from
Sinaloa, Mexico. The results are sometimes surprisingly different, occasionally
comfortingly familiar, but always worthwhile. Pair your tacos and appetizers
with housemade sauces and salsas as well as thoughtfully curated beverages,
including a fully stocked bar with a fresh, playful cocktail list. You can start small,
but you’ll soon see why there’s a line just for people who want seconds.
10 NORTH POST STREET
SPOKANE
www.cochinitotaqueria.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Cochinito’s tacos
feature housemade tortillas. The taqueria
has a full bar. Justin Curtis, left, and Travis
Dickinson started the Spokane hot spot.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21

farm to table
Cranberry farmer Matt Reichenberger talks
about different berry varieties growing in his
fields while riding on one of his track cars.
Farm to Table
Cranberries on the Coast
This holiday treat is also a Washington crop
written by Corinne Whiting
photography by Gemina Garland-Lewis
FOR CERTAIN PARTS of Washington, this season has
one (delicious) focus—cranberries. Take Grayland, a
picturesque spot on the Pacific Coast where salty air
meets marshy land. It’s situated about two-and-a-half
hours southwest of Seattle. Each autumn, a weekend
of food-focused festivities enlivens the Grayland
Community Hall, appropriately located on Cranberry
Road. The venue was built in 1939 by industrious Finns
who populated and harvested the region.
Through the Years
About 235 cranberry growers currently work on the West
Coast, from Oregon to British Columbia. Cranberry farming
in the southwest corner of Washington has a 100-year-plus
history, and the cranberry bogs remain a cherished asset of
Grayland. Although the fruit has always existed here, it wasn’t
until the late 1800s that it was cultivated as a crop. While
exploring the coastal stretches of Southwest Washington, a
visitor from Massachusetts, Anthony Chabot, discovered native
cranberries growing in bogs and flooded fields that reminded
him of Cape Cod.
Then, in 1912, Ed Benn planted Grayland’s first crop,
convinced that the peat soil here could successfully cultivate
commercial cranberries. Some of those vines still exist.
Today, 99 percent of local growers are part of an Ocean Spray
cooperative—a farmer-owned company of 700 families across
North America. Grayland is also home to the famous Furford
picker, a machine named after its inventor that harvests and
prunes the cranberry crop.
Leslie Eichner, executive director of the Westport Grayland
Chamber of Commerce, explained that all but two farmers here
use the labor-intensive dry-harvesting method, since they have
no huge water source except for saltwater. On the other hand,
cranberry farmers in Long Beach use water harvesting, thanks
to their proximity to lakes.
In Grayland, Wendy Hatton and her husband, Don,
have been cranberry farming for more than thirty
years. Their first harvest took place in 1972, and they
have greatly expanded since then. Both of their sons
22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

farm to table
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 23

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Father-son duo Matt, left, and Mike Reichenberger farm cranberries in Grayland, as their family has done for several generations. Mike works on Furford
cranberry pickers at the farm. Matt harvests some cranberries using an antique wooden cranberry scooper that he dates to the 1930s; the scooper has since been replaced with
more efficient technology.
are now growers, too, and they own just over 50 acres. The oldest
vines on their property date back to the 1930s.
Hatton’s parents always farmed in some manner, so when they
saw an ad in the Aberdeen paper for a home swap, they decided
to move the family into a teeny cabin set in the midst of prime
farmland. Although Hatton said the job’s “not for everybody,”
she said she got into the cranberry business because “I had
farming experience. I could do it. I liked it.” She said it requires
an incredible amount of work, but noted, “If you’re able to do it
yourself, you can make a good living.”
Hatton explained that hundreds of cranberry varieties exist,
and once planted, it takes about five years to get a crop. Despite
all the rules and regulations, she appreciates that cranberry
farming allows her family to work when they want. And although
they haven’t gotten there quite yet, she and her husband remain
hopeful that—one day—they’ll be able to take off several months
each winter.
Hatton said summer months can be nearly as critical as harvest,
as this is the time when the crops need “babysitting” and regular
watering sessions, just like any garden. This rings especially true
for this past summer, she said, which proved particularly dry.
Festival Traditions Live On
This year, the annual Cranberry Harvest Festival takes place
October 13-14, but folks can enjoy the tasty, antioxidant-rich
“superfood” all season long. Eichner, once a grower herself,
became the festival organizer in 2013. Although the anticipated
event reaches its twenty-fifth year this fall, Eichner described
it as a delightfully “homespun” production that hasn’t evolved
much over time.
The festival’s turnout depends on the forecast, since the
second weekend in October sometimes brings bad weather like
sideways rain blowing away the tents of hardy outdoor vendors.
Thankfully, there’s plenty of indoor space, too. The festival
occurs with cranberry harvest in full swing, meaning visitors
get to drive through the bogs and watch the action up close.
Guided bus tours allow visitors to talk to farmers, watch them
harvest and stroll through their warehouses.
Other festival highlights include an eating contest for kids
and adults, the 5K and 10K “Jog the Bog and Beach” and a
competition to determine the biggest berry grown by local
farmers. On Saturday evening at dusk, illuminated participants
join the Firefly Parade. And of course, there’s the muchanticipated
Cranberry Cook-off, with categories ranging from
main courses and condiments to breads and desserts. “Some
people absolutely won’t give over their recipes,” Eichner said,
recalling a particularly delectable standout—cranberry clam
fritters, served with a buttery sauce.
“It’s the people coming in and being so interested in
something specific to the region,” Eichner said of the festival.
“It makes me happy.”
24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

farm to table
Farro Salad with
Cranberry Vinaigrette.
Farro Salad with Cranberry
Vinaigrette
SEATTLE / Rider
David Nichols
SERVES 4
Washington Recipes
Cranberry Concoctions
Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust & Cranberry Compote
SEATTLE / Tilth
Maria Hines and Joel Panlilio
YIELDS ONE 9-INCH CHEESECAKE
FOR COMPOTE
2 cups cranberries (fresh or frozen,
not canned)
1 orange
½ cup orange juice
½ cup sugar
½ cup maple syrup
1 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled
and sliced into 4 big chunks
1 pinch of salt
FOR CRUST
12 ounces ginger snap cookies
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup unsalted butter, melted
FOR FILLING
3 8-ounce packages of cream cheese,
softened and room temperature
1 ¼ cup sugar
1 cup canned pumpkin purée
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 whole eggs
1 egg yolk
1 pinch salt
FOR COMPOTE
Using a microplane, zest the orange. Set zest
aside. Juice the orange and top off with more
orange juice to get ½ cup of juice. Combine
cranberries, orange zest, orange juice, sugar,
maple syrup, ginger and salt in a heavybottom
sauce pot. Bring to a boil and turn
down to medium-low heat until cranberries
start to soften and pop.
FOR CRUST
Break ginger snap cookies into small pieces
and place in a food processor. Pulse until you
get a crumb-like texture. Add ground spices
and pulse to incorporate.
In a medium bowl, mix crumbs and melted
butter. Press the mixture flat onto the bottom
of a springform pan. Set aside.
FOR FILLING
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Using an
electric mixer, beat cream cheese and sugar
in a bowl on low speed until smooth. Add
pumpkin purée and beat until combined. Add
vanilla extract and flour to the mixture and
stir to combine. Add the eggs one at a time,
mixing until each one is incorporated before
adding the next one. Do the same with the
egg yolk.
Place the springform pan with the
gingersnap crust on a rimmed baking sheet.
Pour filling on top of crust and spread
evenly. Place it in the oven and turn down
temperature to 325 degrees. Bake for 1 hour
and 45 minutes without opening oven door.
Next, turn off the heat and leave cheesecake
in for 20 more minutes.
Pull cheesecake out and let cool completely
on a cooling rack. After it has completely
cooled, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate
to set, about 4 to 6 hours. After cooling and
slicing, serve with cranberry compote.
MORE ONLINE
2 cups farro
1 large sweet potato, cubed
4 tablespoons crumbled feta
4 tablespoons toasted pepitas
2 cups pickled cranberries
1 head broccoli
½ cup torn mint
FOR CRANBERRY VINAIGRETTE
1 cup picked cilantro leaves
4 tablespoons dried cranberries
1 tablespoons Dijon mustard
Juice of 4 limes
1 teaspoon chili flake
½ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
FOR PICKLED CRANBERRIES
2 cups fresh cranberries
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup water
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick
Cook farro in boiling salted water until
tender. Cool down and set aside until ready
to use. Toss broccoli in olive oil and place on
medium-high heat grill and cook for about 5
to 6 minutes. Cube sweet potato, toss in olive
oil and bake in 350-degree oven for 14 to 17
minutes until tender. In a sauté pan, toast
pepitas with 2 tablespoons of olive oil until
golden brown.
In a large bowl, mix farro with the roasted
vegetables. Toss with cranberry vinaigrette,
and place in large serving bowl. Top with
crumbled feta, toasted pepitas and torn mint.
FOR CRANBERRY VINAIGRETTE
Chop cilantro and dried cranberries and place
in mixing bowl. Add mustard, lime juice, chili
flake, salt and pepper, slowly whisk in olive oil
until emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning
as needed.
FOR PICKLED CRANBERRIES
Boil all liquid, pour over fresh cranberries and
let sit for three hours before using. You can
make ahead and store in the fridge up to
weeks ahead.
Get cooking with more recipes
at www.1889mag.com/recipes
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25

home + design
Small Wonders
Washington designers merge form
and function in innovative tiny homes
written by Melissa Dalton
“My approach is
not to lose track
of what feels inspiring
and functional. I try to
always bring those
two together.”
— Abel Zyl
26 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

home + design
Photos: Abel Zyl
FROM LEFT The Damselfly has thirteen windows and pale cabinetry. The roof looks like a breaking wave.
Olympia: Modern engineering and old-school craft unite
Twelve years ago, Abel Zyl was walking in his Olympia
neighborhood when he saw an 84-square-foot house parked in
a backyard. Its owner, he learned, was Dee Williams, a local
advocate for minimalist living and the tiny house movement,
who had designed and built the abode herself. When Zyl
bumped into Williams at the food co-op some time later, he
told her she had inspired him. “I ran into Dee, and I mentioned
that I kind of wanted to build my own tiny house,” Zyl recalled.
“She was like, ‘Kind of want to? You should do it.’” So, he did.
The small-scale construction project presented a fun
creative challenge to Zyl, who had previously worked as
an electrician and house remodeler and also studied boat
building in college. He pieced together his first design from
an array of found materials—including salvaged wood, the
remnants of his senior year boat project and objects picked
up in dumpster dives. “I’ve always had an eye for free piles,”
Zyl said. “My friends would laugh because I can spot a free
pile from a mile away.” With its cedar shingles and red-framed
windows, his first house looks like a simple cottage, but there
are hints of the aesthetic that he would hone for future tiny
house commissions, including a handmade “moon window”
and arched roofline.
That first project still sits on his property, a 34-acre farm
outside Olympia that hosts his workshop. There, he’s built
around thirty tiny homes under the company name Zyl
Vardos. Each design is as unique as its owner, yet still evokes
his distinct style. It starts with a pencil sketch that gets refined
via 3D-modeling software. The software enables him to “snap
the lines of the house off the pencil sketch,” he said. He then
uses a CNC (computer numeric control) machine to create
patterns and cut parts for his imaginative shapes. “Because I
use a CNC and a computer to design, I can make parts of any
shape. They give me this really great creative flexibility,” he said.
He then builds many components by hand, from the doors and
windows to porch lanterns and wood dryer vents.
His work has been called “whimsical” and “like something
from a fairytale.” While those are apt descriptors, his designs
always combine artistic flourish with practicality. Take the
Damselfly, a home built in 2017. For it, he composed a roofline
that appears as two pieces cascading over each other, like a
breaking wave. Thirteen handcrafted windows, including a
curved design over the kitchen sink, let in lots of natural light,
and the pale-colored cabinetry, walls and cork floor don’t
clutter the eye. Features like hidden drawers and cubbies in the
stair tread, and a sliding Shoji screen door at the bathroom,
save space. “My approach is not to lose track of what feels
inspiring and functional,” Zyl said. “I try to always bring those
two together.”
Much of his inspiration comes from his clients,
whom he refers to as “co-authors” in the design/build
process. “It’s always about people,” he said. “I’ve been
pretty fortunate and met a lot of amazing people.”
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 27

Photos: Modern Wagon
Wenatchee: An adventure wagon takes
a Washington couple to their new life
If you visited a national park out west last summer, you might
have seen Duff Bangs and Ashley Rodgers. The couple took an epic
11,000-mile road trip all over the western half of the U.S., hitting
as many national parks as possible over three months. Starting in
Seattle, they drove east to Chicago, then backtracked through the
Grand Tetons and Yellowstone, dropping as far south as Zion and
Joshua Tree. What made them stand out from other cars on the
road? They towed their 28-foot-long, 13,000-pound tiny home,
aptly dubbed the “Adventure Wagon,” the whole way.
The road trip was a reset for the Seattleites. “We were just ready
for a change,” Bangs said. “We were ready for that next step and
we also wanted to do some travelling.” Early in 2017, the couple
sold their city condo, then designed and built the tiny house as a
prototype for their company, Modern Wagon. “As an architect, I
thought it would be a great design project,” Bangs said.
From the start, they weren’t interested in allowing the notion of
tiny to dictate the home’s interior. “It seems like a lot of tiny homes
are traditionally a home shrunk down into a smaller space,” Bangs
said. “So, I feel like all the pieces get shrunk with that as well, such
as the sink and appliances. Something like the bathroom becomes
a very tight space.” Their approach was different. “It was an exercise
in picking out the amenities that were most important to us and
maximizing those spaces,” he said, “then letting the envelope and
form of the tiny home evolve around that.” To that end, the couple
identified priorities, such as a full-sized bathtub, washer/dryer,
plenty of countertops for meal prep, and an open floor so Rodgers
can roll out her yoga mat. Then the different areas were laid out for
ideal weight distribution along the trailer bed.
Final tweaks ensured the home achieves the modern look the
couple prefers and still feels roomy in its 270 square feet. Slanted
FROM TOP The Adventure Wagon has a sleeping loft over the couch. The
270-square-foot Adventure Wagon was home base for an 11,000-mile road trip.
front and rear walls cut a sharp silhouette and also increase
headroom, most importantly where the sleeping loft is stacked
over the couch. “We wanted to be able to sit up [in bed] and not
hit our head on the ceiling,” Bangs said. They lined the exterior
and roof with charcoal standing-seam metal, which provides a
nice contrast to the white aluminum plastic composite siding.
Large windows and an interior palette of bamboo floors and light
birch plywood further visually expand the space.
After logging many miles on the open road, the couple now
calls Wenatchee home, where Rodgers is a social worker and
Bangs leads his architecture firm modFORM. For it, he’s been
tapped to design a few compact Detached Accessory Dwelling
Units (DADUs). “They’re not on wheels but it’s a very similar
design exercise,” he said. “It really allowed me to bend my whole
design genre.”
28 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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home + design
DIY: Use Wall Stencils for Eye-Catching Accents
WE COULDN’T HELP but admire the striking artwork on the kitchen cabinets in Bangs and Rodgers’ tiny home.
It was painted by a friend of theirs, as a “celebration of our travels and our relationship,” said Bangs, who also
likes how it adds a splash of color to the monochromatic interior. Try wall stencils for an equally artistic—and
affordable—decorative accent, following the simple guidelines below.
1
PICK A PATTERN
Wall stencils are fantastic for their versatility, so
choose any pattern that resonates. Think about
how the scale of the design will appear with
repetition, and whether the size and repetition
works with the rest of the room’s décor.
for the background and the stencil for a more
subtle appearance. Basic wall paint will work for
this project, though it’s also possible to experiment
with different decorative effects, such as using gold
paint, to make the overall design shimmer.
PREPARE THE WALL SURFACE
2
CHOOSE COLORS AND EFFECTS
With stencils, you’re not confined to the colorways
found in wallpaper and can custom match the
stencil paint to the existing color palette in the
room. Try a dramatic contrast and layer a light
pattern over a dark color. Or, choose similar shades
4
Apply the base coat to the wall. Tape off the area
to be stenciled with painter’s tape, protecting
trim, floor, and ceiling. Starting at the ceiling line,
attach the stencil to the surface with painter’s tape,
making sure it’s flat and the design is level.
PAINT AND REPEAT
Paint using a stencil brush or roller, making sure to
monitor the amount of paint applied. Do not allow
paint to get beneath the surface of the stencil,
either from an overloaded brush or raised template,
as that can blur the edges of the final design. Once
the first image is applied, carefully remove the
stencil and position it in the next open spot, using
the registration marks.
30 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

home + design
Out of the Ordinary Home Décor
The Dish Side Table from Grain, a
design studio located on Bainbridge
Island, is made from FSC-certified
American ash in the Pacific Northwest.
Perch your drink, or your bum, on its
scooped tabletop, as it doubles as a
stool in a pinch.
www.graindesign.com
Charlie Schuck
The Epoca Vase looks equally
good whether it’s holding flowers
or displayed on open shelves.
Designed and made by The Granite,
a workshop in Portland, the
unglazed matte white exterior is
hand-painted with an assortment
of colored shapes for a fresh and
modern take on the average vase.
www.workshop-thegranite.com
Kennett Mohrman
Whether it’s a wall hanging or
pillow, Katherine Entis of Soft
Century specializes in textiles
that reveal a unique perspective.
We especially like the knit
paintings, which are “inspired by
landscapes real and imagined,”
and handwoven from top-notch
yarn in her Portland atelier.
www.softcenturydesign.com
Got stacks of magazines on the
floor by the couch? Seattle-based
Fruit Super has created the perfect
solution: the sleek, minimal Print
Rack. The U-shaped body comes in
either white or forest green powdercoated
metal, with a cork base and
solid wood handle. Consider the
clutter conquered.
www.fruitsuper.com
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 31

mind + body
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Philip Milliman
pole vaults during a practice. The Millimans
participate in Senior Games track and field.
Charles Milliman gets ready to attempt a jump.
Keeping It in the Family
Father-son pole-vaulting duo aim to inspire
written by Viki Eierdam
A POLE VAULTER since high school, Philip Milliman heard
about the Washington Senior Games in 2003. He and his father,
Charles, have attended ever since. In 2017, at the ages of 66 and
84 respectively, they took gold in their age categories for pole
vaulting at the National Senior Games in Birmingham, Alabama.
Charles also walked away with a gold in the high jump.
Charles Milliman is pragmatic about it all. A retired minister
who felt a call to ministry when he was working for Boeing in
the 1960s, he competes in six track-and-field categories.
“I just do it within my own ability. I enjoy competition but it’s
mostly to see what I can do,” he said. “Some events I come in
seventh or eighth place. It’s not the winning. It’s the finding out
what I can do.”
He took up endurance running on his 78th birthday, running
three marathons in three days to equal his age and donating
money raised to the Boys & Girls Clubs of the Olympic
Peninsula. He repeated the endurance goal for his 80th birthday
and his 85th, donating money to charities each time.
The senior Milliman has been training for marathons since
he was 39. He found he could lose his mind in running, and
its ability to drastically reduce stress levels has kept him a fan
ever since. With sixty-seven marathons under his belt, he’s still
finishing in under seven hours.
“The main benefit (of staying active) is the wholeness of life,”
he said. “You can do more at an older age when you’re physically,
spiritually and mentally fit.”
As a volunteer pole vaulting coach at Sequim High School, Philip
Milliman’s enthusiasm for physical activity is equally inspiring.
“In some ways, Dad and I aren’t normal, but we think of
ourselves that way,” he said. “We strongly believe in bringing
others along for the ride, being excited about it, moving until
you drop. It’s never about beating someone else. It’s about
beating yourself or being the best you can.”
Philip Milliman remembers that after church on Sundays
when he was growing up, his folks would suggest a hike in the
mountains instead of the less active pursuits his friends were
engaged in. Today they invite others to hike portions of the 130-
mile Olympic Discovery Trail as they complete it in segments.
It seems to be a Milliman motto: “I’m never comfortable just
sitting down,” Philip said.
32 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

mind + body
“In some ways, Dad and I
aren’t normal, but we think
of ourselves that way. We
strongly believe in bringing
others along for the ride,
being excited about it, moving
until you drop. It’s never
about beating someone else.
It’s about beating yourself or
being the best you can.”
— Philip Milliman
Photos: George Stenberg
Charles Milliman
Pole vault, 100-meter
dash, 800-meter dash,
high jump, long jump,
standing long jump
Age: 85
Born: Auburn, Indiana
Residence: Sequim,
Washington
WORKOUT
“I have no strict regimen.
If I register for a race, I put
in more time for training.
I started running and got
in the habit of it and kept
it up. I run about every
day except Sundays. As
a retired minister, I don’t
run on Sundays. I’m aware
of alternate distance and
intensity workouts but I just
go out and run most of
the time.”
NUTRITION
“If I’m training for ultradistance,
like my birthday
when I ran 85 miles last
November, I eat a boiled
potato every hour. But any
special stuff? No, I just eat
regular foods. My wife’s a
good cook. We don’t eat
veggies everyday or fish
once a week but we eat good
meals. Not a lot of desserts.
We couldn’t afford them
when we were younger so I
never got in the habit.”
INSPIRATIONS
“I have six points I share
with people of why I’m still
running. 1) I believe in God.
2) I have a good family
support. We all do stuff
together. 3) I don’t drink
alcohol or smoke. 4) I
exercise. 5) I have a good
doctor. 6) I drink a lot
of water.”
Philip Milliman
Pole vault and high jump
Age: 67
Born: Pasco, Washington
Residence: Sequim,
Washington
WORKOUT
Philip uses pickleball when
he can for conditioning. He
attends a Warrior Fitness
program twice weekly at a
local gym. Custom training
includes several sets of
upper body drills and swing
drills such as leg swings,
overhead push, high bar
inversion drills, left leg
pendulum drill and right
knee drive drill. He also
trains with the high school
track kids he helps coach at
Sequim High School.
NUTRITION
Like father, like son. Philip
thanks his wife, Rosaura,
for his eating plan. Organics
make up 80 to 90 percent
of their diet, such as
chicken, fish, fruits and
vegetables. He’s an avid tea
drinker and supplements
with smoothies to ensure
optimal produce intake.
INSPIRATIONS
“Our family’s always been
pretty active physically. My
dad and mom are great
inspirations.” Philip stays
engaged with backpacking,
skiing, running and
organizing church activities
like bicycling. His sister
and brother-in-law are also
Spartan racers. “I believe by
keeping moving, the blood
flows to the places that
need healing.”
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33

artist in residence
Foraging For Jewelry
Collecting sea glass goes from a hobby to a
full-time business at West Coast Sea Glass
written by Lauren Kramer
THERE’S SOMETHING DELICIOUSLY peaceful about
wandering along a lonely beach, feeling the wind
in your hair and the sand beneath your feet. One
Olympic Peninsula entrepreneur took her love of beach
wandering and turned it into a successful career.
Mary Beth Beuke, 55, had been searching the sand
for sea glass since the age of 6, collecting fragments
of glass whose sharp edges had been caressed and
softened by water and time. “I just love being by the
shore and walking, so my sea glass collection naturally
fell into place,” she said. Another great love was crafting
and making jewelry. One day she included a piece of
sea glass in her jewelry and the result caught many
admiring glances. Orders from her friends for more
pieces of jewelry came flooding in, and before she knew
it, Beuke was at the helm of West Coast Sea Glass, now
a successful company selling sea glass jewelry
online and in galleries all over the United States,
Canada, Britain, the Bahamas and Australia.
34 1889 WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

artist in residence
After two decades of research, Beuke is an expert in identifying
the glass in her collection. “History is really important in a sea
glass collection, and that’s defined by color,” she said. “Glass was
manufactured in many different colors 100 years ago than it is
today, and back then the most common bottle colors in the U.S.
were clear, brown and forest or emerald green. I consider these
rarer colors to be of more value, and in my jewelry I only use the
best pieces.”
There’s lots of detective work in sea-glass collecting and Beuke
loves the thrill of finding something rare and identifying where it
came from. One time she found a piece of glass belonging to an
early-1900s walking cane. “For me, this becomes a process of glass
archaeology and historical investigating,” she said. “It’s not just a
broken piece of a 1970s bottle.”
Beuke has an office in the Olympic Peninsula and a studio in
Tacoma. Together with Teresa Crecelius and Lindsay Furber—a
longtime friend with whom she co-founded West Coast Sea
Glass—she makes rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks
and a few pieces of home décor.
Each piece of jewelry created by the three women is accompanied
by a card indicating when and where the sea glass was found, and
any information about its historical relevance. Her customers
love knowing pertinent information about their sea glass jewelry,
and she often fields requests for a piece of jewelry made with sea
glass from a particular beach or coastline. Sometimes customers
will find sea glass on a beach during a vacation and mail it to her,
requesting she use it in a piece of unique jewelry as a memento of
their trip.
Over the course of her life, Beuke has amassed one of the world’s
largest and rarest collections of sea glass fragments. She displays
them during the lectures she delivers at museums and libraries,
educating people about their origins. She keeps her jewelry
business collection separate from her personal collection.
These days, however, the more historical pieces of sea glass are
becoming increasingly hard to find. “It’s been four years since I
found anything of historical significance in the U.S.,” she said with
a tinge of regret in her voice. “The really rare pieces are either
buried at sea or they’ve been found, and some of the best places
on the planet that used to have rare sea glass forty years ago just
don’t have it anymore.”
In terms of sea glass jewelry, that means making twelve pairs
of blue earrings, requiring twenty-four pieces of sea glass, can
FROM TOP Mary Beth Beuke
heads West Coast Sea Glass.
She creates sea glass rings,
as well as other jewelry with
the glass.
be next to impossible. “We have to rely on the pieces we have
here, rather than foraging for new pieces,” she explained. “And
some colors we simply can no longer provide, like aqua blue,
which is much rarer than a green piece of sea glass.”
On a hot day in July, Beuke headed to her silver studio to
complete a five-piece cobalt blue bracelet made of sea glass
from old medicine bottles. A silversmith and photographer by
trade, she has effortlessly merged her talents, creating stunning
pieces of art in both her jewelry and photography. Home is a
twenty-second walk from the beach, so she gets to indulge her
love of beach wandering almost daily.
“It’s been such a joy connecting with people over sea glass,”
she said. “I truly have the best job in the world.”
“History is really important in a sea glass collection, and that’s
defined by color. Glass was manufactured in many different colors
100 years ago than it is today. … I consider these rarer colors to
be of more value, and in my jewelry I only use the best pieces.”
— Mary Beth Beuke, of West Coast Sea Glass
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35

STARTUP 38
WHAT’S GOING UP 40
WHAT I’M WORKING ON 41
MY WORKSPACE 42
GAME CHANGER 44
pg. 44
Water from Wine funds water projects around the world.

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VASHON ISLAND, WASHINGTON
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startup
Rover connects pet owners with
pet sitters and dog-walkers.
Friends for Fido
How Rover went from an idea to a coast-to-coast
platform connecting pets and caregivers
written by Chad Walsh
38 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

startup
THE MOTHER-OF-INVENTION story is such a common
one for tech startups that it’s almost become a trope. Take
Reed Hastings, who got fed up with late fees from video
rental stores and eventually founded Netflix, the order-bymail
subscription DVD rental company turned streamingcontent
juggernaut. Founder sees annoying problem.
Founder builds better mousetrap to eliminate said problem.
Founder’s nascent company changes the everyday lives of
millions of Americans.
That’s how Rover, the Seattle-based website that facilitates
relationships between pet owners and pet sitters and walkers,
was born. In the mid-aughts, Greg Gottesman had to leave
Seattle and needed someone to look after his yellow lab, Ruby
Tuesday. Like millions of Americans, he turned to his local
kennel to look after his beloved pet and went on his way.
But things were amiss when he returned home. When
he picked up Ruby Tuesday, the dog was covered in
scratches. Worse, the pet had come down with a bad case
of kennel cough. Needless to say, the dog was in much
worse shape when Gottesman picked her up than when
he dropped her off.
Gottesman’s lightbulb moment came when his then-9-
year-old daughter chimed in, saying that if someone offered
to pay her, she’d gladly look after pets.
The story goes that Gottesman ran with his daughter’s
idea, unrolling Rover, the dog-sitting (and cat-sitting) and
dog-walking company, at Seattle’s Startup Week in 2011,
where Gottesman and his business partners took home the
event’s top prize.
Seven years later, Rover now contracts with 200,000 pet
sitters and walkers in 14,000 cities across the United States,
from tiny dog-happy towns like Sun Valley, Idaho, to large
sprawling metropolises like Seattle and San Francisco.
“Rover’s mission is to bring the joy of pet companionship
to every responsible person in the U.S.—whether they work
long hours, travel frequently or don’t have a local network of
family and friends to help out with care,” said Pete Bahrenburg,
a spokesman for Rover.
Here’s how it works. Rover is in many ways a community
message board, where pet owners in need of assistance can
connect to those sitters and walkers who have downtime and
are looking for extra cash.
Think of it like a cross between Uber and Tinder. You
search for pet sitters in your area and swipe right until you
find one you trust. Once you’ve settled on one, you can order
a bespoke roster of services that cater to your pet’s needs.
Bahrenburg said prospective pet owners should place a
great deal of faith in how Rover operates. Indeed, all the petsitters
who apply to house sit or walk dogs are run through a
rigorous screening process prior to coming into contact with
anyone’s pet.
“We have very high standards for our sitters and dog
walkers,” Bahrenburg said, noting the company accepts fewer
“Rover’s mission is
to bring the joy of pet
companionship to every
responsible person in
the U.S.—whether they
work long hours, travel
frequently or don’t have
a local network of family
and friends to help out
with care.”
— Pete Bahrenburg,
Rover spokesman
than 20 percent of those who apply to contract with them. “Our
team reviews each sitter and dog-walker profile submission
with a focus on dog safety. Profiles detail a prospective sitter
or dog walker’s experience and background, as well as photos,
references and third-party verifications.” Each new sitter and
dog walker also completes a full background check processed
by Checkr, itself another tech startup.
While companies like ride-share programs create an
environment where prices can rapidly rise during peak times,
Rover allows pet owners and pet sitters the ability to haggle
over the costs of services. “Pet sitters and dog walkers can
set and adjust the services and rates they offer at any time by
editing their user profile at rover.com or on the Rover app,”
Bahrenburg said. “Sitters can always edit their rate as needed
during conversations with pet parents, allowing them to offer
custom rates for the services provided. For instance, sitters
and walkers may offer a discount for multiple-pet households
or raise rates for dog boarding, house sitting and drop-in
visits throughout the holiday season.”
And Rover’s services don’t only apply just to dogs.
“While we are ‘The Dog People,’ Rover isn’t just for dogs,”
Bahrenburg said. “Cat drop-ins are one of the fastest growing
segments of our business. Sitters on Rover have looked after
cats, birds, horses, pigs and even lizards and fish.”
So go ahead and plan that next family trip with the
knowledge that you don’t need to leave your dog at the kennel
for two to three weeks at a time. Indeed, you can have a oneperson
kennel come to you.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39

what’s going up?
Grab a Glass
New wine-tasting options around the state
written by Sheila G. Miller
Barrels Wine Bar, on Mercer Island,
offers forty wines by the glass.
DELILLE CELLARS
& SPARKMAN CELLARS
DeLille Cellars and Sparkman
Cellars announced a plan in late
May to relocate their tasting rooms,
production facilities and event
spaces to a former Redhook Brewery
site in Woodinville. According to The
Seattle Times, the 20-acre site, across
Northeast 145th Street from Chateau
Ste. Michelle, will also house the
Teatro ZinZanni, a dinner show. A
restaurant is also expected to open
on the site.
DOUBLE CANYON
WINERY
In West Richland, Double Canyon
Winery in July opened a tasting
room where visitors can try all its
incredible cabernet sauvignon. The
tasting room, a modern space with
a tasting bar and tables, offers views
of the barrel room and production
area, as well as a patio with a fire pit
and more views. The tasting room
joins the winery, which opened its
new facility in 2017, and a Seattle
tasting room.
BARRELS WINE BAR
In June, Mercer Island welcomed
Barrels Wine Bar, a tasting room
and wine shop. The shop offers forty
different wines by the glass or bottles
for purchase, as well as snacks. For
the non-wine fans, there are also four
diverse beers on tap, and can and
bottle options as well. The shop offers
daily wine tasting and opportunities
to meet winemakers.
40 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

what i’m working on
What I’m Working On
The Doctor
is In (Spokane)
Dr. Darryl Potyk talks about
the state of medical education
interview by Kevin Max
IN 2016, the University of Washington
reaffirmed its commitment to medical
teaching in Eastern Washington. In
connection with the private Gonzaga
University in Spokane, the UW School of
Medicine-Gonzaga University Regional
Health Partnership program enrolled sixty
students in its first year. We checked in
with Dr. Darryl Potyk, the program’s chief
of medical education, to talk about growth
and the first two years.
Darryl Potyk is the chief of medical education at the UW School of Medicine-Gonzaga University
Regional Health Partnership.
You started your role as the
associate dean for the school a year
ago. After your first year in the new
med school, how would you rate the
school’s success?
I think we’ve been very successful.
This is the first public-private
partnership that the UW has engaged
in. We came together for the greater
good of the Spokane community. We
have 120 students on this campus
now, and we’re focused on getting
them the best medical education.
What is the competitive angle of
this campus and this program?
We’re part of the bigger UW School
of Medicine. We don’t really think of
ourselves as competing with other
campuses. We work collaboratively
with UW. We’ve been here in Eastern
Washington educating students in
medicine for twenty-five years. One
thing we’ve been able to do is reduce
the [core] Foundations classes from
two years to eighteen months. We
compressed that time and made
it more clinically relevant to give
students more time to focus on what
area they want to spend their careers
on. We have a couple of different
rural clinical programs that have
garnered national awards. Integrating
humanities education with medical
education has been another area
of strength for us. Sometimes in
this field, you can get wound up
in data, but at the end of the day,
doctoring comes down to people and
relationships.
What has the school’s presence
meant for the Spokane community?
The community is behind medical
education as a whole. In previous
times, we were in a partnership
with Washington State University
and parted ways. There was some
resentment around that. There are
some people who still view this as
more of a football game, yet it’s more
important than the Apple Cup [the
annual football meeting of rivals WSU
and UW]. We’re at a tipping point
where we’re doing good things with
research and clinical medicine, and I
think the community supports that.
The program accepts sixty students
each year. What do you see for the
future growth of this program?
Expansion is on the horizon and
important with the workforce needs
in the Spokane area. At the same time,
we’re scaling back the rate at which we
expand. First, we need to figure out how
to provide quality clinical experiences
and clinical teaching resources before
we can grow. We need to do that in a
way that quality precedes expansion.
What do you want prospective
students to know about this program?
I want people to know that we have
been here for twenty-five years and
are going to continue to be here. The
UW School of Medicine is a costeffective
model, and we are able to
offer top-of-the-nation education at a
great value.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 41

my workspace
My Workspace
Opening Eyes
UnCruise creates experiences on small cruise ships
written by Sheila G. Miller
Jocelyn Pride
Sue Rooney says she has the best job in
the world. The director of guest adventures
for UnCruise, a small ship adventure cruise
company, just might be right. She designs
the cruise experiences, whether it’s a wine
and gastronomy cruise along the Columbia
and Snake rivers or an experience in the
Galapagos Islands. “I take a vision and
then I put the puzzle pieces of that vision
together,” she said.
Although cruises to Alaska are UnCruise’s bread and butter,
ships can sail year round. So the company offers other
cruises to places around the world—Mexico, Hawaii, Costa
Rica, Panama, and right here in the Pacific Northwest. “We
have people go on those Alaska cruises with us and then
they’ll go to a place they wouldn’t go if they didn’t trust
us,” Rooney said.
42 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

my workspace
Rick Duval
In 2019, UnCruise will morph its fall
wine cruise into a wine and culinary
experience. The cruise will still include
winery partners, but now will also offer
spirits, beer, fruit, hazelnuts, coffee …
all the things that make Washington
(and its neighbor to the south) great.
UnCruise Adventures
Rooney’s favorite cruise the company
offers is one that runs along the Columbia-
Snake River system. “Sometimes that’s a
complete shock to other people because
it doesn’t have whales or glaciers,” she
said. “But it does have magic and the
unknown. People think they know what’s
out there and we get to blow their minds.
… We get to mix food and culinary and
wine and history, which is riveting. It’s an
adventure of the mind and the palate.”
“I live to connect,” Rooney said. “I live
to watch people’s eyes fly open. It’s the
perfect job for me.”
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 43

game changer
Water From Wine
A Washington farmer uses grapes for the greater good
written by Corinne Whiting
SOMETIMES DOING GOOD simply takes thinking outside of the box—or
barrel, as the case may be. In 2012, Pat Tucker—a Paterson, Washington,
farmer for more than forty-three years—came up with a brilliant plan. He
decided to use the 6-acre vineyard on his family farm to benefit nonprofits,
specifically those already invested in international clean-water projects.
Situated in the Horse Heaven Hills region, just north of the Columbia River
near the Oregon border, Water from Wine enjoys its placement between
the esteemed Columbia Crest Winery and Chateau Ste. Michelle.
The organization focuses on water
because, according to the World
Health Organization, 2.5 billion
people worldwide lack access to clean
water and a simple toilet. Other stats
indicate that 5 million people, mostly
children under the age of 5, die from
water-related illnesses each year, and
collecting water takes up as many as 200
million hours a day, mainly by women
and children. Water from Wine partners
with organizations already working to
end the global water crisis, like Seattlebased
Water1st International.
For the initiative’s name, Tucker
sought inspiration from The Bible,
specifically John 2:1-11, in which Jesus
first turned water into wine. Tucker
decided to symbolically flip that phrase
to describe his own team’s mission. In
the fall of 2014, Tucker’s family, friends
and community members gathered to
harvest the first grapes. He reached out
to longtime friend Charlie Hoppes of
Fidelitas Winery to make the wine, and
that first harvest yielded an impressive
984 cases of cabernet sauvignon.
Tucker, who was impressed by
Water1st’s work, pledged 100 percent
of the proceeds from each bottle sold.
Through this partnership, each case
provides one family in Mozambique,
Ethiopia, Bangladesh and Honduras
with clean water and a toilet for life.
To date, supporters have bought 3,900
bottles of cabernet sauvignon, which
has raised $117,000 and translates to
1,300 people now enjoying the basic
human right of water.
So far, Water from Wine has released
five varietals, including the most
recent—a 2015 Red Mountain cabernet
sauvignon. Another impressive stat—
worldwide, 35 to 50 percent of water
projects tend to fail within the first five
years. However, not a single Water1st
project has fallen through, thanks to
meticulous monitoring and models
built to last.
Tucker said marketing has proven
the biggest hurdle. “We want to get the
word out there to increase sales, thereby
increasing the amount of money we
donate to clean water projects, but it’s
been a challenge,” he said. However,
staunch support from the community—
and uplifting results—provide more
than enough inspiration to carry on with
the cause. For the last couple of harvests,
the organization has welcomed help
from between 120 and 140 volunteers.
“The most fulfilling part of this
endeavor has been donating the proceeds
from our wine sales to organizations like
Water1st,” Tucker said. “Knowing that
all the hard work put into harvesting
the grapes, getting the wine in the bottle
and selling the wine means that more
people around the world have access to
clean water.”
44 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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TRIPPING OVER
WASHINGTON
WINE COUNTRY
THE BEST WINE-TASTING EXPERIENCES AROUND THE STATE
written by Viki Eierdam
NEARLY 950 WINERIES call the Evergreen State
home. From the Puget Sound to Lake Chelan to
Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley and the Columbia
Gorge, Washington is prime for a circular road trip
to fourteen American Viticultural Areas. From
maritime to mountains and desert to Missoula
Floods remnants, there is adventure, vistas, history
and romance to be uncorked in nearly every barrel
and bottle. Follow along as we share some mustsee
wine spots and experiences that elevate wine
tasting to wine travel.

San Juan Cruises/Eric Creitz
Charity Burggraaf
Richard Duval
2
DUE
NORTH
At just 9 square miles in size,
Lummi Island rewards visitors with
one of the finest dining experiences
in the Northwest at The Willows
Inn. A scant five-minute ferry ride
from Bellingham, its forage-driven
menu—headed by acclaimed chef
Blaine Wetzel—and mesmerizing
water views are the perfect
accompaniment to a curated wine list
with a strong Washington selection.
Make it an overnight at this circa
1912 inn so you can partake in a
pampering breakfast.
If you find yourself in Bellingham
in the summer, be sure to book
an unWINEd on the Bay winetasting
cruise. Since 2012, San Juan
Cruises has offered this scenic
and educational experience that
showcases a different wine region
from around the world every
Thursday evening. Photos ops of
Bellingham Bay are a bonus.
1
ISLAND TIME
Sarah Tanksley
Ease into island time on the short ferry ride from West Seattle to Vashon
Island. Vashon Winery has been crafting boutique wines for more than
thirty years and it’s one of the few places in the Northwest producing wine from
Chasselas Doré, a white grape that hails from Switzerland mountain ranges. If Vashon
is boutique, Maury Island Winery is nano, but, as they say, great things come in small
packages. These estate-grown wines emphasize sense of place with Puget Sound pinot
noir and pinot gris.
To round out the three-winery Vashon Island tour, check out Palouse Winery. Its
2017 “Pearlescent” cabernet franc rosé is a quintessential island wine, pairing seamlessly
with seafood and light salads.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP San Juan Cruises offers wine cruises every Thursday in the summer. The Willows Inn
foraged cuisine includes poached rhubarb with lemon thyme. Bordeaux Cellars has mountain views. Maury Island
Winery is a tiny operation. Palouse Winery is the perfect island spot.
Fred Broomhall
3
OVER THE
CASCADES
The Bavarian town of Leavenworth
supports a healthy selection of
tasting rooms along its main drag,
but a short drive out of town
affords its own surprises. Located
completely off the power grid,
Boudreaux Cellars highlights
amazing mountain views deep in the
idyllic Cascade Mountains, and the
200-barrel cellar takes advantage of
consistent temperatures found only
underground. Icicle Ridge Winery has
two tasting rooms in town but, for
guided wine hikes that end with lunch
and a wine pairing, venture out to its
5,000 square-foot log home winery.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 47

4
WHIRLYBIRDS
& BUBBLES
Established as an AVA in 2009,
Lake Chelan already counts more
than thirty wineries, the majority of
which surround its picturesque lake.
The perfect way to take in all this
lush scenery is a Lake Chelan Wine
Valley tour aboard Lake Chelan
Helicopters. Six separate wineries
can accommodate a helicopter
landing, including Rio Vista Wines,
which hosts a summer concert
series, and Tsillan Cellars, an Italianthemed
winery complete with 80,000
pounds of Italian marble stone and
on-site Sorrento’s Ristorante.
Focused on sparkling wine,
KARMA Vineyards and its
underground wine cave is a notto-be-missed
stop while in Chelan.
With its estate grapes, KARMA
invests in the traditional French
method of creating sparkling wine
and fashions a brut, brut de brut and
a rosé style.
5
COLUMBIA
VALLEY
Stone, rock, exposed beams, slate
and hardwood are the materials
used to create a menu of overnight
accommodations at Cave B Inn &
Spa Resort. A working farm that
affords panoramic Columbia River
views from its basalt cliff location,
Cave B Estate Winery is one of the
many on-site treats here. Drawing
from more than 100 acres under
vine, Cave B is part of the Ancient
Lakes AVA. In the main lodge,
Tendrils Restaurant thoughtfully
pairs estate wines with locally
focused cuisine.
Tsillan Cellars
6
LEADING THE PACK
Better known as the hops-growing capital of the U.S., Yakima Valley
was the first AVA in Washington. Unique wine experiences and some
of the highest-rated wines in Washington’s winemaking history can be found here.
Care to follow up a little rock climbing with wine tasting? Wilridge Vineyard
is a recreational vineyard where guests can picnic, enjoy scheduled yoga, and
also rappel from Andesite rock cliffs and hike, bike or horseback ride Cowiche
Canyon’s Upland Trails.
Continuing the horse theme, Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast & Barn in Zillah offers
hay wagon winery tours. By night, Cherry Wood is a glamper’s dream with decked
out teepees and open-air soaking tubs, but a day of traipsing around four wineries
in their “cowboy limo” is the plush life.
If you’re looking for views for days, Col Solare is the spot. Built on Red
Mountain, guests relish views of the Yakima River, Col Solare’s fan-shaped
vineyard and Mount Adams and the Horse Heaven Hills in the distance. Symmetry
and beauty are found in the wines and mimicked in the architectural details.
In Prosser, Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center aims to take visitors on a
trip through Yakima Valley wine country in one stop. Highlights include views
of the Yakima River, a different Washington AVA featured on the center’s tasting
room lineup each month, a wine-driven small bites menu and a host of regularly
scheduled tasting events.
48 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

7
Jumping Rocks Inc.
GO EAST, YOUNG MAN
Walla Walla’s Abeja Winery is situated on 38 acres of gardens, lawns,
creeks and vineyards. Its inn is anchored by a stunning, turn-of-thecentury
farmstead where original outbuildings have been restored to luxurious guest
accommodations. This appointment-only winery is steeped in dramatic history and
capped off by some of the most premium wines in Washington.
Long Shadows Vintners and Foundry Vineyards have two things in common—
beautifully crafted wines and thought-provoking art. The modern tasting room of
Long Shadows displays Chihuly glass sculptures, and wines are a collective of five
internationally acclaimed vintners. Choose from a 60-minute Portfolio Tasting or
90-minute Inside Story Tasting, both by reservation only. Also an art gallery, Foundry
Vineyards holds tastings in a sleek space surrounded by rotating fine art pieces.
Visitors are encouraged to bring picnics and unwind in the outdoor sculpture garden.
Set in a circa 1915 schoolhouse, L’Ecole No 41 is simultaneously a unique tasting
experience and story. For a deep dive, sign up for a Reserve Tour and Tasting, where
guests are immersed in the history of L’Ecole through words, a walking tour and
library wines.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Lake Chelan Helicopters offers wine tours. Tsillan Cellars is an Italian-themed winery
near Lake Chelan. Col Solare’s vineyard is in the shape of a fan. Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center educates the
wine-loving public. Abeja Winery has guest accommodations.
Pixelsoft Films Ste. Michelle Wine Estates
SO MANY WINERIES,
SO LITTLE TIME
Here are more recommendations
for top stops along the diverse
landscape of Washington wine
country.
YAKIMA VALLEY
Hedges Family Estate: A Frenchstyle
chateau in the middle of
Red Mountain with a must-see
champagne room.
Prosser’s Vintner’s Village:
Nine wineries, one tasting room
and one wine bar comprise this
walkable wine-driven development.
Yakima Valley Visitor
Information Center: Visitors can
purchase Yakima Valley wine, beer
and cider and sample a rotating
array of local wines.
COLUMBIA VALLEY
Columbia Gardens Wine
Village: At the confluence of the
Columbia, Snake and Yakima rivers
sits the Port of Kennewick and
its newest venture. Bartholomew
Winery and Palencia Wine
Company are the first tenants in
this boutique winery concept.
WALLA WALLA
Sleight of Hand Cellars: A fun,
music-centric tasting room with
vinyl spinning in the background.
Pepper Bridge Winery: A food &
wine pairing class, complete with a
chef-led tasting of small dishes.
Northstar Winery: Offering a
blending experience capped off
with a custom label.
WOODINVILLE
Novelty Hill-Januik: An ultramodern
winery with floor-toceiling
windows that overlook
barrel and fermentation tanks.
Chateau Ste Michelle: The newly
remodeled visitor’s center offers
multiple guest experiences and is
ideal for picnics on the lawn.
Two Vintners: This industrial
winery is a hit with parents
because of the playroom behind
the tasting room’s curtain.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49

8
WESTWARD
HO!
If tiny-house living is calling your
name, Alexandria Nicole Cellars at
Destiny Ridge has four where guests
can overnight. For example, Jet Black
is a blend of New York art gallery and
Northwest upcycling complete with
a repurposed fermentation tank that
dispenses your choice of red or white
wine from convenient kegs, a roll-up
garage door that adds outdoor square
footage and a bedroom oriented
to greet the day with vineyard and
Columbia Gorge views.
Less than two hours west from
Paterson is Underwood Mountain,
where Hawkins Cellars takes full
advantage of its hard-fought location
with more dazzling Gorge views
and Mount Hood in the distance.
Croquet and bocce ball encourage
guests to linger and hear the story
of how winemaker Thane Hawkins
made the move from animation to
fermentation.
Skamania Lodge is celebrating its
twenty-fifth anniversary throughout
2018. An emphasis on Columbia
Gorge wines is the sip du jour as
guests look over the breathtaking
National Scenic Area. Skamania also
offers a selection of wines in the onsite
Waterleaf Spa and wine-infused
lotions, scrubs and massage oils for
spa treatments.
Emily Maze Patrik Argast
9
SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON
Take in views of the long-awaited Grant Street Pier, casting its nautical
silhouette 90 feet out over the Columbia River, while swirling a glass of
Alexandria Nicole Bohemian Blend or Terra Blanca cabernet sauvignon at WildFin
American Grill. Located in the new Waterfront Vancouver development, this locavorecentric
eatery boasts a “barrel to bar” program featuring Washington wines on tap.
Twenty minutes up I-5, it’s time for a sweet treat. Gary Gougér, winemaker at Gougér
Cellars, has figured out how to remove the alcohol from his wines and, with no added
sugar, crafts such tempting flavors of wine ice cream as zinfandel chocolate chip,
muscat with lemon lime zest, muscat with toasted coconut and muscat with berries.
A collaboration between Chelatchie Prairie Railroad and Moulton Falls Winery,
the Wine Train runs down the tracks from May through November. Purchase train
tickets and wine at Moulton Falls, board the 1929 steam locomotive and enjoy a 7-mile
excursion as it passes through a 330-foot solid rock tunnel.
AT LEFT Gougér Cellars sells wine and wine ice cream. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Hawkins Cellars has Mount Hood
views. The Bramble Bump at JM Cellars has an arboretum, as well as a wine library and barrel room. Charles Smith Wines
Jet City is in a defunct Dr. Pepper bottling plant. Skamania Lodge celebrates its anniversary with Columbia Gorge wines.
50 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

KEEP IT MOVIN’
In recent years, wine country has
done a great job promoting the
idea of “Wine and…” Check out
this abbreviated list designed to
keep you imbibing and exploring.
Chelan Electric Bikes Winery
Tour: Visit three wineries in four
hours aboard hill-friendly e-bikes.
Let the guide pack it in and pack
it out for you. In warmer months,
bring your swimsuit to cool off at
a beach detour.
www.chelanelectricbikes.com
Red Mountain Trails: Saddle up
for a trail-ride wine-tasting tour
with these horse-loving guides.
A picnic lunch and three winery
stops are included in this fresh-air
adventure. Not an equestrian at
heart? Inquire about wagon rides.
www.redmountaintrails.com
10
COMING FULL CIRCLE
Rockstar winemaker Charles Smith fashioned Charles Smith Wines
Jet City from a defunct Dr. Pepper bottling plant. Located in the
Georgetown neighborhood of Seattle, this extraordinary setting takes advantage
of Boeing Field runways and nearby mountainscapes. The two tasting rooms are
a real mix, with rustic Northwest representing downstairs and Austin Powersmeets-James
Bond happening upstairs.
In the heart of downtown Seattle, wine lovers find their happy place at Purple
Café and Wine Bar. Tours are given of the floor-to-ceiling “wine tower” which
captivates first-time and returning guests. A team of sommeliers stands at the
ready to help patrons with a wine list longer than 100 pages.
With more than 100 wineries comprising Woodinville wine country, Bramble
Bump at JM Cellars is an oasis. This 7-acre arboretum offers a trail system with
more than 400 conifers and 200 Japanese maples, while a rock garden, bocce court,
outdoor fire pits and multiple patios accent the grounds. Massive custom copper
doors lead to the wine library and barrel room where guests can attend a private
wine blending with owner and winemaker John Bigelow.
Yakima Valley Carriage
Company: Whether a romantic
escape for two or a day with a
group of friends, a horse-drawn
carriage tour through Yakima
Valley vineyards is an unrushed
way to take it all in. Trot along
from April 15 to October 31.
www.yakimavalleycarriageco.com
Photos by Lisa Monteagudo/MM3 Designs
(center) and Jeanene Sutton (bottom)
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 51

Hanford’s B Reactor at the height
of the Manhattan Project.
Department of Energy
52 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Preserving
the Past
How to remember and celebrate
the mixed legacy of Hanford
written by Sheila G. Miller
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53

Hanford.
Long shrouded in secrecy, this 586 square miles
of desert in southeast Washington played a pivotal role
in World War II and the Cold War.
It was the site of incredible scientific and technological advancements that dramatically
changed the United States and the world. But the work that happened here wasn’t without
consequence—it created the plutonium used in the nuclear bomb detonated over Nagasaki,
and production of that plutonium and other nuclear weapons rendered it a Superfund site
with 56 million gallons of nuclear waste.
Hanford officially stopped producing plutonium and electricity in 1987, and today is
known as much for the multibillion dollar cleanup as it is for the incredible backstory on
how that waste came to be. Now, the federal government and a diverse group of community
members are preserving the mixed legacy of this storied, if silent, place, with both the
Manhattan Project National Historical Park and other efforts.
Hanford’s History
Mike Mays runs Washington State University’s
Hanford History Project. Mays grew up in Washington,
went to high school in Pullman and earned degrees
from the University of Puget Sound and the University
of Washington. Still, when he got to Richland for his
appointment at WSU-Tri-Cities, he didn’t know much
about Hanford.
“My wife is from Alabama, and she was doing research
and had to explain to me some of the details of the
significance of the Tri-Cities and Richland and Hanford,”
Mays said. “I was just shocked. Having grown up here
and taken Washington state history in high school and to
know really so little about what had happened was kind of
shocking to me.”
The site was selected by the federal government in
1942 for its role in the Manhattan Project, a program
to develop nuclear bombs in response to the Germans’
discovery of nuclear fission. Hanford, along with Oak
Ridge, Tennessee, and Los Alamos, New Mexico, were
secret locations dedicated to figuring out how to harness
the power of nuclear fission and create the bombs that
eventually brought to a grinding halt World War II.
When it was selected to house this section of the
Manhattan Project, residents of White Bluffs and Hanford
were given thirty days to leave their homes and farms
in early 1943 and given a small amount of money to do
so. Then, it was time to recruit the workers—eventually
51,000 people in all. Many knew little about what they
might be building or what the facilities would be used for.
According to the federal government’s official Hanford
website, making plutonium is inefficient—that is, to
make a little plutonium you have to create a lot of
waste, both liquid and solid. The site continued to create
plutonium during the Cold War, and today about 8,000
54 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

employees continue to decommission,
decontaminate and take down the
buildings used to make the plutonium.
That means making sure the waste
doesn’t get in the air, water, or ground.
But Mays, like many who grew up
here, had only the vaguest notion
of all this. So he decided he could
prevent other students from having
that aha moment later in life. As an
administrator, he searched for ways to
build academics on campus, and found
a natural match—advancing the history
of Hanford.
Community groups around the area
had given oral histories, but there was
no central clearinghouse. “They were
tucked away in shoeboxes in people’s
garages and attics and so forth,” Mays
said. The Department of Energy created seed money to
help the Hanford History Project begin conducting oral
histories, primarily focused on the residents who lived in
Hanford and nearby White Bluff before 1943. The project
collected the oral histories hiding in people’s homes, as
well as its own, all in one place. They’re now digitized,
transcribed and on a website, www.hanfordhistory.com.
WSU-Tri-Cities also offers a freshman interdisciplinary
seminar course that focuses on Hanford history. Students
work on semester-long projects devoted to the Manhattan
Project and the area’s involvement in it.
“While there are many people who know very deeply
the history within the community … I would say most
people are not fully aware of what the importance of the
Manhattan Project was, not only for the community but
for the world,” Mays said.
The Hanford History Project also facilitates research
and manages the Hanford Collection—3,000 unique
artifacts collected from the Hanford site between 1997
and 2014, dating between 1943 and 1990. Pieces from the
collection are loaned out to museums, and the project
continues to gather papers from notable Hanford alums.
To Mays, preserving Hanford’s history is a simple
choice—he believes the Manhattan Project was the
most significant event of the twentieth century. “There’s
a lot of competition for that claim, but the discovery of
nuclear fission and the development of nuclear weapons
fundamentally changed the way that we experience life,”
he said.
Mays believes there are several reasons Washington
natives and other members of the public don’t have a
strong understanding of the significance of Hanford.
There’s an idea in Tri-Cities like many other places,
Mays said, that “if it happened in my backyard it can’t be
that interesting.”
Years of lobbying resulted in B
Reactor’s preservation.
There’s also the fact that the project was so secret for so
long—many people didn’t know that relatives worked at
Hanford, or if they knew that’s where they worked, they
didn’t know what they did there.
Mays also points to Hanford’s mixed legacy, and believes
sometimes the humanitarian and environmental questions
overshadow the scientific advancements made there.
“After Three Mile Island in 1979 and Chernobyl in 1986,
there was a reconsideration of nuclear that was absolutely
called for,” Mays said. “Nobody can argue with people’s
concerns. … A lot of the story just gets eclipsed because of
the very legitimate concerns of downwinders and the effects
of not only the bombs that were dropped on Japan but the
prolific testing that happened after that, and the impacts that
had on communities from the Marshall Islands to Nevada to
Washington and so on and so forth. It shifted the pendulum.”
Now it’s about trying to get the pendulum back to
the middle, Mays said—where the public can consider
the incredible science and technological advancements
made while also recognizing the humanitarian issues
and environmental problems that came from the
Manhattan Project.
“The Tri-Cities community has been a little defensive,
and they have some good reasons to be. It’s a community
where the nuclear industry has been its lifeblood, first with
the Manhattan Project and then with nuclear energy, and
then with the complete reversal—with the cleanup,” Mays
said. “So the tendency has been to focus a little bit more on
the heroic, the Greatest Generation and the engineering
and technological feats. That shouldn’t be discounted, but
that’s only one part of the story. Likewise, if we only focused
on contamination and the bombings of Nagasaki and
Hiroshima, again that’s only one side of the story.”
Department of Energy
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55

Today, the public can tour the B Reactor
and other parts of Hanford.
Atomic Heritage Foundation
Preserving B Reactor
Mays wasn’t the first person in the Tri-Cities to realize
the importance of preserving Hanford’s history for
future generations.
For more than twenty-five years, a group calling itself
the B Reactor Museum Association toiled in an effort to
prevent the site’s destruction. The association is primarily
made up of people who worked at Hanford, though it is
open to anyone.
John Fox, president of the B Reactor Museum
Association, described the group as a grassroots effort to
persuade federal authorities that instead of sealing it and
forgetting about it, they should save just this one reactor.
It took years, Fox said, and a lot of help from engineering
societies around the country, to get the building designated
as a historic engineering achievement.
“It was a very high-risk gamble from the standpoint
of physics and chemistry,” Fox said of the reactor and
the rest of the site. “It was taking something from the
very forefront of scientific research at the time to mass
production on an industrial scale.”
After the reactor was listed on the National Register of
Historic Places in 1992, designated a National Historic
Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994, and named a
National Historic Landmark in 2008, the B Reactor
opened for annual public tours in 2009. Not all of the
building is available for tours—due to hazards—but the
control room and much of where the action took place is
open to visitors.
Today, association members are still called on for
special tours. Fox hosted a tour for Mitsugi Moriguchi,
a survivor of the Nagasaki bombing. The year the bomb
dropped, the Japanese visitor was 8 years old, while Fox
turned 18. “I expected to be drafted to invade Japan, but
the bomb was dropped in August and the war was over in
September,” Fox said. “I wasn’t drafted, and Japan wasn’t
invaded.” In other words, Fox said, the bomb affected his
life in another way—he could very well have been killed in
combat if the war had gone on.
56 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Creating a National Park
“I think by studying the past, we get a better
sense for the present. Obviously we are in
a world full of nuclear weapons, on the one
hand. On the other hand, the world is full of the
benefits—nuclear medicine and research—that
were generated by the project. … All of these
advances have been a direct descendant of the
work done in the Manhattan Project.”
— Cindy Kelly, Atomic Heritage Foundation
The B Reactor Museum Association worked with a
variety of groups in preserving the reactor. Chief among
those is Cindy Kelly, the founder and president of the
Atomic Heritage Foundation.
Kelly started the foundation in 2002 with the mission
of creating a Manhattan Project National Historical Park.
Over the past sixteen years, the foundation has worked
to preserve properties at Hanford, as well as in Oak Ridge
and Los Alamos, and worked with the local communities
in those places to preserve and interpret the history.
The Atomic Heritage Foundation also has a huge
online presence, offering up primary source documents
and oral histories to the curious—want to see Albert
Einstein’s letter to FDR warning of the German effort
to make an atomic bomb? You’re in luck. Want to hear
female physicist Leona Marshall Libby explain xenon
poisoning? You’ve come to the right place.
“I think by studying the past, we get a better sense for
the present,” Kelly said. “Obviously we are in a world full
of nuclear weapons, on the one hand. On the other hand,
the world is full of the benefits—nuclear medicine and
research—that were generated by the project. Scientific
innovations, high-speed computing, the human genome
project, studies to understand what low doses of radiation
can do in all sorts of contexts. All of these advances
have been a direct descendant of the work done in the
Manhattan Project, so it’s a very rich history.”
The park was established in November 2015 after
the Department of Energy and National Park Service
came to an agreement on the project. DOE owns and
manages the sites, while the park service handles visitor
centers and interpretive services. In Hanford, the free,
four-hour guided tours cover the B Reactor as well as
several pre-Manhattan Project facilities, including the
old high school and the Hanford Construction Camp
Historic District.
The biggest challenge of preserving Hanford, Fox said,
came down to budget. The Department of Energy has a
clear mission for Hanford at this point—to put its money
into cleaning it up and packaging the 56 million gallons
of nuclear waste that sit in underground tanks.
“That’s proving to be more of a challenge than building
and operating the place in the first place, which is ironic,”
Fox said. “Anything that doesn’t fit in that cleanup mission
is harder to justify in the eyes of the federal agency, so
(the park) took a lot of persuasion.”
Kelly recognizes the controversies of the Manhattan
Project, both environmental and humanitarian, but said
it’s important to keep it in context.
“What’s the legacy of Gettysburg, or Antietam?” she
asked. “The Civil War was a bloodbath. Talk about
brutal—they were bayonetting each other and shortrange
firing. If you look at it now, that field is kind of
bucolic looking and it’s hard to imagine.”
As to the environmental legacy, she notes only 10
percent of the 580 square miles was used, and identified the
environmental legacy of Hanford as one of advancing stateof-the-art
environmental cleanup technologies.
“Most of Hanford is pristine,” she said. “There’s a section of
Hanford that has flora and fauna not seen in the wild since
the days of Lewis and Clark. It’s always been a little frustrating
to hear the drumbeat that it’s the largest Superfund site in
the world.”
When the idea of the Manhattan Project National
Historical Park first surfaced, Kelly said the park service
worried about putting rangers at a Superfund site. But, she
said, there’s less radiation in the B Reactor than outside of it.
“It’s not as bad as people think. Far from it,” she said. “That’s
not to say there are not areas that are contaminated. The tank
waste poses a unique disposal problem of what to do with it.”
There is a section on the park’s website noting some areas
are still part of “active DOE mission activities,” and as a result
some of the facilities aren’t open to the public or can only be
visited through bus tours.
Fox hopes his group can help present more information
about the environmental cleanup process, which Fox
called “the fission product mess, which is the devilish
problem here.”
“History is what happened and why it happened at the time,
with the level of knowledge and understanding at that time,”
Fox said. “Looking back at whether it should have happened
or been avoided, we can always debate that forever. But what
happened, happened. We aren’t necessarily memorializing it
or lauding it by preserving it. It’s as important to preserve
it as a reminder of the bad consequences it had and to say,
‘Maybe we should learn how to avoid doing these things
when the next opportunity comes along.’”
Kelly agreed.
“It’s all part of our history,” Kelly said. “You don’t have
to save everything—progress comes along. But I think it’s
important to have something from every chapter. People are
going to be curious about this, for generations to come.”
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 57

WIND WRANGLERS
photography by Kate Daigneault
Each summer, Long Beach is transformed for a
week during the Washington State International
Kite Festival. Kites of all sizes fill the skies with
color as famous kite fliers show off their skills and
tens of thousands of spectators watch in wonder.

A variety of kites soar above the Washington
State International Kite Festival in Long Beach.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A young attendee hitches a ride to get a better look at the large kite field. The street leading up to the festival offers snacks
as well as places to buy kites of your own. A festival visitor readies his kite. John Stefan, left, and a friend work on getting a large kite into the air.
60 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

62 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

CLOCKWISE FROM
FAR LEFT One of the
youngest competitors
and field directors shows
off his kite pins. Team
Evidence performs a
partners routine in the
precision sport kite
competition. Massive
caterpillar kites fly along
the ground in the large
kite field. The crowd
cheers during the sport
kite ballet. Ribbons are
awarded to festival
competitors.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 66
Justin Bailie
ADVENTURE 68
LODGING 74
TRIP PLANNER 76
NORTHWEST DESTINATION 82
pg. 68
Leaf Geraghty leads fishing expeditions.

travel spotlight
Pacific Bonsai Museum
Travel Spotlight
Art and Nature
Pacific Bonsai Museum is one
of two in the United States
written by Vanessa Salvia
BONSAI TREES are living art, an artform
that will never be completed or finished. It
can take years to create an envisioned tree
shape, followed by a lifetime of care. The
Pacific Bonsai Museum in Federal Way, one
of only two bonsai museums in the United
States, presents bonsai as fine art pieces. The
elegant, architect-designed outdoor setting
offers seasonally rotating displays of fifty to
sixty bonsai out of the museum’s 150 trees,
some hundreds of years old. The exhibit was
a private collection established in 1989 on the
state of Washington’s 100th birthday. The
exhibit transitioned to a nonprofit museum in
2014. Trees are protected by acrylic enclosures
when the temperature drops and are watered
multiple times a day on hot days. Though it’s
open-air, it’s still a museum, complete with
themed exhibits, talks, demonstrations and
tour guides. Admission by donation.

It’s an island thing.
North Umpqua River
For more than 20 years the
best chefs and winemakers
from around Oregon have
joined forces at Steamboat
Inn to create a special
night of food, drink, and
friendship. Reserve your
place at the table and join
the tradition.
thesteamboatinn.com
Photo by justinbailie.com
Steamboat Inn operates under a Special Use Permit from the Umpqua National Forest
Complimentary Wi-Fi • Complimentary Deluxe Breakfast Buffet
Outdoor Pool and Hot Tub • The Crow’s Nest Bar and Grill
Complimentary Bike Usage • Fridge and Microwave in Each Room
Riverside Suites • Conference and Banquet Facilities • Pet-Friendly
Near Historical Downtown Kennewick • Locally Owned and Operated
435 CLOVER ISLAND DRIVE, KENNEWICK, WA
866.586.0542 • 509.586.0541 • www.cloverislandinn.com
Don’t risk a fall visit to Cannon Beach.
It might rain; there could be rainbows and
all sorts of annoying dramatic skies.
cannonbeach.org

adventure
Adventure
Fall Fishing
on the Columbia River
Chartering a boat on opening day at Buoy 10
written by Laura Cherau
photography by Justin Bailie
68 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

THE LATE SUMMER AIR is full of salt smell,
warm and misty. I like getting up when it’s still
dark and moving around outside with only
the light of the bait-and-tackle truck. I have
been told the salmon fishing is going to suck,
because it’s early and the run was late last year,
something blamed on warmer ocean and river
conditions. But I am hopeful that beginner’s
luck will play in my favor. I’ve never caught a
fish. I’m 38.
Leaf Geraghty is laid-back in the way you’d
want a charter guide to be. Down-to-earth
would be another way to describe him. He’s a
big guy, a guy’s guy, a father and a contractor.
He’ll try like hell to land you a fish on a bad day.
He knows about the tides and weather and the
sandbars. His humor is a bit Chevy Chase and
a bit young Bruce Springsteen, I think.
Geraghty’s dogs have already eaten his lunch, which
he left on the stairs of his house while packing the boat
up this morning. When I show up, though it is well
before our starting time, he’s already got the boat in
the water.
Geraghty’s River Wolf is called the Bar Tender. It’s
an open-sled boat with an offshore bracket and an
Evanrude 300 hp—an excellent rough water boat
to have on the lower Columbia. I know about the
other kind of bartending and being a single mom and
writing. I know next to nothing about fishing. I think
I am supposed to be quiet. I’ve stared at this river for
what feels like forever and watched people fish from
shore. That’s what started this—I took a photograph
of anglers on shore and the clouds opened and looked
holy and I thought maybe I would like to fish too.
The river is a person with a temperamental
personality. She changes colors frequently. She can
be soft like brown butter or violent and black. This
morning her black water is kind and quiet and only
lurches and laps the hull when I climb aboard.
Geraghty leaves to park his truck and returns with
his two dogs, who run down the dock and jump in the
wrong boat. The boat’s owner looks confused. It’s still
pitch black out. Geraghty gives the dogs a good talkingto,
and they figure out the boat I am on is theirs.
“We should be okay. If I fall off, just
turn the motor off. We should be pretty
good. Already a lot of guys are turning out
and going to the ocean,” Geraghty says.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 69

adventure
Charter guide Leaf Geraghty prepares
for an early-morning fishing trip.
The river is a person with a temperamental personality. She
changes colors frequently. She can be soft like brown butter or
violent and black. This morning her black water is kind and quiet
and only lurches and laps the hull when I climb aboard.
“Forecasts for the river are not the best. A little bit of daylight
starting here, we got a full tank of gas, we got bait, just need a
couple of Chinook to bite and we’re there.” It’s 5:30 a.m.
Today we will not be tending the bar. We’re staying on the
river. Often the Washington side of the river gets so crowded
with boats during the Buoy 10 season that it looks like the
occupants could join hands and form an island, or a chain, like
some ants do during flood season. It’s a pretty spectacular sight
from the minty green Astoria-Megler Bridge, which spans the
width of the Columbia River and connects the northern corner
of Oregon with the southern tip of Washington. “Sometimes a
whale hangs out here,” I exhale as we pass. I want to see the
whale. We don’t.
We catch our first salmon of the day around 7 a.m. A 15-yearold
boy from Long Island, New York, reels him in. “On the
board! We’re on the board!” Geraghty exclaims. He gets on the
phone. A big part of being a good guide is how many friends you
have out on the water. All day Geraghty’s phone is blowing up
to the opening chord progression of AC/DC’s “Highway to Hell.”
They talk about where the fish are and what they seem to be
biting. Today the answers seem to be “nowhere” and “nothing.”
We mill around for hours, trolling with our lead droppers,
flashers, anchovies and cut-plug herring. We use a
spinner on the bow a couple of times.
Ted Hughes, the English poet, thought fishing was
meditative, “some form of communion with levels of
70 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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adventure
yourself that are deeper than the ordinary self.”
I order myself to stay in the present moment.
I know that if I catch anything, it is out of my
control. It would be because a fish is hungry,
or deranged, or because of the “short bus”
flashers Geraghty said were “consistently good.”
Or because of the tide, the cold water current,
the weather, coincidence or something more
spiritual that I failed to grasp.
We decide to bail on the absentee Chinook
and go sturgeon fishing in the afternoon. The
sky is still gray cashmere and the hills misty and
navy blue on the horizon. The water ebbs milky
green identical to its foggy forest surroundings.
When I finally reel in a green sturgeon it is
exactly 1 inch longer than my 11-year-old son. It
is hard to reel in a big green sturgeon the size of
your child as fast as possible. My left arm and leg
shake uncontrollably. I fear losing the rod. We
measure him and then I let him go. After the
fight is over, I realize I just made the sturgeon
irritatingly late for something, like when I
make my son brush his hair before he runs out
the door.
We have to wait for the tide to come back
in to return to salmon fishing. “Got the curse!
C’mon, stupid salmon! Beat it, seagull,” Geraghty
says. We fish for more hours. I’ve been in boats
before, but never for this long. I could have
flown from Seattle to Dubai to much the same
physical effect—the 3-foot chop mimicking
in-flight turbulence of a mellow and fatigueinducing
nature.
When Geraghty finally throws his hands up
and resigns himself to a beanbag chair and a can
of Pringles, it is time to leave. He counts five
total salmon caught from the boats he knows,
including the one we caught. I am relieved
beyond measure to be going home. It is fun
when we do a big loop in the River Wolf on the
way home, like going on two wheels in a Formula
One racer. On the other hand, I feel like it’s
making me late for something.
On Thursday, those who want their limit
head out to the ocean for Coho. I feel like a
salmon fishing failure who just landed in Dubai
and doesn’t wish to leave her hotel room. I am
amazed to realize that I actually like this and I’d
probably do it again. Would I go out for open
ocean? Tuna? Marlin? I would. I vow to catch a
damned salmon and eat him for dinner. I look
forward to long hikes and winter steelhead. I
need waders. Maybe I’ll get Geraghty to take me
out for crab or coho or both.
72 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

adventure
FROM TOP LEFT Leaf Geraghty’s dogs, Ellie and Buddy. A caught fish. Geraghty
prepares a line. Boats along the Columbia River. Geraghty holds a fish in a net.
The Astoria-Megler Bridge spans the river.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73

Photos: Fire & Vine Hospitality
Lodging
Eritage Resort
written by Cara Strickland
NESTLED INTO THE rolling fields and vineyards of Walla
Walla wine country, you’ll find this adults-only resort, almost
like a mirage. Eritage is the brainchild of Va Piano Vineyards
owner and winemaker Justin Wylie, whose vision was to create
a place to gather and relax in luxury, all while enjoying the best
of what wine country has to offer. The resort is convenient to the
local vineyards and for dining in and around Walla Walla, but
far enough to help you feel you’re getting away from it all.
1319 BERGEVIN SPRINGS ROAD
WALLA WALLA
eritageresort.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Eritage is a jumping-off
point for wine tasting. Ten guest rooms populate
this adults-only resort. Butterscotch pudding at the
restaurant. Eritage plans to add ten more rooms.
ACCOMMODATIONS
There are currently ten guest rooms (ten more
are soon to be constructed), each including
a private deck or patio with views of the
mountains or the manmade lake. Enjoy nightly
turn-down service for your soft-as-air kingsized
bed, luxury bath products and a stateof-the-art
entertainment system for all your
viewing needs. The rooms have a fireplace,
seating area, a large shower and a soaking tub
for ultimate relaxation.
DINING
All resort guests are invited to a continental
breakfast with housemade baked goods
and whatever other seasonal fare might be
available. For dinner, check out Eritage’s
intimate in-house restaurant, helmed by James
Beard Award-winning chef Jason Wilson. The
menu changes seasonally to allow the culinary
team to showcase the region’s bounty.
AMENITIES
Enter fully into relaxation by booking an
in-room massage during your stay. Get out on
the lake with a paddleboard—complimentary
for resort guests—or take a dip in the pool.
Try your hand at a lawn game, or simply sit in a
lawn chair and take in all the natural beauty.
If you’re looking to host an event, keep in mind
that Eritage is fully equipped for weddings,
meetings and other gatherings.
74 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

trip planner
Small Town Roots,
Bigtime Wine
Walla Walla is about
a lot more than just wine
written by Catie Joyce-Bulay
L’Ecole No. 41 is based
in an old schoolhouse.
I FIRST FELL in love with the Pacific Northwest while living in Eugene, Oregon. Even after I returned to my home
state back east, the PNW kept calling to me and I eventually convinced my husband we needed to move back.
He landed a job in Walla Walla, a town we knew nothing more about than as a Bugs Bunny cartoon reference.
I soon found Washington’s Inland Empire to be a
completely different planet from the Pacific Northwest I
thought I knew. Far from being a disappointment, exploring
all the Walla Walla Valley has to offer has been a grand
adventure. Lush forests are replaced by rolling hills and high
desert, a vibrant green in the spring, and changing colors
every month after.
As for the town, it doesn’t get much more charming. Yes,
Walla Walla is best known for its wine, favoring bold Bordeaux
styles, but it still holds strong roots in its farming community
and pioneer heritage. It is home to three colleges
which bring an abundance of arts and culture to
the town of about 35,000. The wineries have helped
cultivate a foodie scene that’s hard to beat.
76 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

BECAUSE
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VINEYARD
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wineries, award-winning restaurants,
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Plan your next adventure at WallaWalla.org
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trip planner
Fort Walla Walla Museum
Melissa McFadden
Day
WINE • OLD WEST CHARM • MODERN ART
Driving into town from the west, catch the wind just right and
you may be inspired to belt out a line from “America the Beautiful”
when you see those amber waves of grain undulating across the
plains like a golden ocean. Although Walla Walla’s tiny airport
has daily flights to and from Seattle, driving gives you the perfect
excuse to begin wine tasting before you even get to town. As the
not-so-distant Blue Mountains come into view, so do the cluster
of wineries that make up the Westside District.
Woodward Canyon Winery is one of the first on Highway 12,
and one of the oldest wineries and vineyards in the valley. Its
tasting room, a restored 1870s farmhouse, was the old home of
the teachers of Lowden School, next door, which today is also
a winery. The 1915 restored school is home to L’Ecole No. 41
Winery, where you can still ring the old school bell before stepping
inside for a tasting. Enjoy a glass of their crisp, grapefruity Chenin
Blanc (one of my favorites) while sunning on the patio.
The first thing you’ll see as you spot town is its tallest building
and hallmark of downtown, the Marcus Whitman Hotel and
Conference Center. A stay in this historic hotel sets you up
perfectly for a stroll through the Downtown District’s many
wineries (you can’t throw a stone without hitting two), chic
boutiques and restaurants.
Spend the afternoon touring Walla Walla’s art paired with
wine. Start at Foundry Vineyards, where rotating exhibits bring
in world-renowned artists. The sculpture garden contains
permanent pieces made at the Walla Walla Foundry. DAMA
Wines’ new downtown tasting room showcases regional artists
and each of the wine bottle labels of this woman-owned winery
features a female artist. The wines at both are worth tasting even
without the art. By now, you’ll begin to notice how approachable
the wineries are, how readily pourers will give newbies the
lowdown on what’s in the glass and how it got there, along with
restaurant recommendations. It’s not uncommon to find the
winemaker herself in the tasting rooms.
Walk a few blocks more onto Whitman College’s campus
and tour the sculptures. Tucked among giant trees, a Japanese
garden and a footbridge-covered winding stream are totem poles
and sculptures, many cast at the Foundry, including “Carnival,” a
colorful Venus de Milo by celebrated Pop artist and Walla Walla
resident Jim Dine. Don’t miss the Dale Chihuly glass sculptures
in the Reid Campus Center and Cordiner Hall, then head to the
Sheehan Gallery, home to the college’s indoor art collection.
Dinner is a walk away through Main Street’s preserved brick
buildings that readily recall its early days as a stopover on the
Oregon Trail. I never miss an opportunity to have another bowl
of T. Mac’s dreamy Bolognese when friends and family come to
town. For fine French fare, Brasserie Four is a delight, and the new
Soi 71’s Thai menu is spot on.
78 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

trip planner
Sarah Koenigsberg
Day
HISTORY • HIKING • PANORAMIC VIEWS PICNIC
If you’re staying at the Marcus Whitman, you don’t have
to go far for a great breakfast. The complimentary breakfast
buffet has everything you need to provide a solid base for your
busy day of hiking and wine tasting.
History buffs will want to make a morning trip to Fort Walla
Walla Museum, where you can roam through an authentic
pioneer village and see a life-sized replica of a thirty-three-mule
team pulling a Harris combine used to plow the steep slopes.
Those looking for an abridged history lesson can visit the
second floor of the Marcus Whitman Hotel, and see an artist
rendition of the Whitman Mission and the region’s history.
Get a jump on picnic-gathering supplies with a visit to
neighboring College Place, which, like everything else, is only
a ten-minute traffic-free drive away. Cugini Italian Import
Foods has all the essentials for charcuterie, from housemade
soppressata and salami to a variety of imported olives
and cheeses.
It will be worth the extra five-minute drive to visit Frog
Hollow Farm’s farm stand beside its century-old farmhouse
for fresh heirloom vegetables (find its tomatoes in many
downtown and Seattle restaurants).
Epic picnic views abound across town on Pikes Peak Road
or Scenic Loop Road. Visit an eastside winery on the way, like
Walla Walla Vintners, to pick up a bottle to go, before winding
FROM LEFT A living history character at Fort Walla Walla Museum. Cugini Italian
Import Foods has the charcuterie makings ready for you. Foundry Vineyards
features a raft of art. Woodward Canyon Winery is in the Westside District. DAMA
Wines has a new downtown tasting room. Brasserie Four serves up French food, like
this bouillabaisse. The Marcus Whitman Hotel is the crown jewel of hotels.
up the hillside for breathtaking views of the valley’s farmlands
below.
For a hike in the Blues, take Mill Creek Road to Tiger Canyon,
winding up the dramatic canyon striped with ponderosa pines
on its north-facing slopes and wildflowers to the south. The
road eventually turns to dirt, with Umatilla National Forest
and hiking trails on the right and Mill Creek Watershed on
the left. Head to Deduct Trailhead to hike in the forest along
the North Fork of the Walla Walla or farther to Table Rock for
rim views.
After a hike, the southside wineries are the perfect place
to relax, home to the newly designated Rocks District AVA.
Northstar Winery has one of my favorite glass-in-hand views
of the vineyards, foothills and mountains. Back in town, swing
by the Vineyard Lounge for its happy hour. I recommend
the local wine of the month paired with chorizo-stuffed
mushrooms and fried calamari with housemade dipping
sauces. Then stroll across the street to the Whitehouse-
Crawford, whose farm-to-table ingredients are impeccably
and elegantly prepared.
If you still have energy, Club Sapolil has live music
most nights, offering a laid-back wine bar vibe.
Check out the Gesa Power House Theatre or The
Little Theatre of Walla Walla for live performances.
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 79

trip planner
WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON
EAT
T. Mac’s
www.tmacsww.com
Brasserie Four
www.brasseriefour.com
Soi 71: A Thai Noodle House
www.soi71noodlehouse.com
Whitehouse-Crawford
www.whitehousecrawford.com
Colville Street Patisserie
www.colvillestreetpatisserie.com
Maple Counter Cafe
www.maplecountercafe.com/wpsite
Graze
www.grazeevents.com
STAY
Marcus Whitman Hotel &
Conference Center
www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com
Walla Faces Inn
www.wallafaces.com/hotels/
Abeja
www.abeja.net/inn
Green Gables Inn
www.greengablesinn.com
Day
FROM LEFT Burwood Brewing is a great stop when you’re tired of wine
tasting. Walla Walla Community College has a College Cellars.
BIRDING BENNINGTON LAKE • BREWS • AIRPORT DISTRICT
Maxwell House Bed & Breakfast
www.themaxwellhouse.com
PLAY
Woodward Canyon Winery
www.woodwardcanyon.com
L’Ecole No. 41 Winery
www.lecole.com
Foundry Vineyards
www.foundryvineyards.com
DAMA Wines
www.damawines.com
College Cellars
www.collegecellars.com
Sheehan Gallery
www.whitman.edu/sheehan/
Sheehan_Exhibitions.html
Hiking the Blue Mountains
www.bmlt.org/new-page-2
Birding at Bennington Lake
www.blumtn.org
Club Sapolil
www.sapolil.com
Gesa Power House Theatre
www.phtww.com
The Little Theatre of Walla Walla
ltww.org
Burwood Brewing Company
burwoodbrewing.com
Quirk Brewing
www.quirkbrewing.com
DW Distilling
www.dwdistilling.net
Walla Walla Distilling Company
www.wallawalladistillingcompany.com
For a lighter breakfast, I love starting my
morning off at Colville Street Patisserie. Get
there when it opens at 9 a.m., while the bright
morning light filters in and the warm freshly
baked pastries are being brought out. It’s
never too early to sample the gelato, inspired
by local ingredients like sweet pea or honey
lavender. For heartier fare, try the pancakes
or the Eggs Casey, topped with creamy
mushroom sauce, at Maple Counter Café
across the street.
Then head to Bennington Lake, a popular
recreation area for locals. Walk, run or bike
the trails around this reservoir for great views
and opportunities to spot a variety of ducks,
geese and other birds. Get there on a Tuesday
morning and meet up with the Blue Mountain
Audubon Society’s weekly bird walk.
Afterward, stop in at nearby Walla Walla
Community College’s College Cellars,
where students of the renowned enology
and viticulture program produce an array
of award-winning wines. Attendants of the
student-run tasting room are eager to share
what they’re learning, and you’ll get a taste
of some lesser-known varieties and maybe a
tour of the production facility. Head back into
downtown for more lunch options. Graze’s
veggie torta is one of my favorite sandwiches
and the pizza of the day never disappoints at
Olive Marketplace and Café.
Around day three of showing visitors the
sights, wine fatigue starts to set in. Luckily,
Walla Walla has some great craft breweries
and distilleries to switch it up. I head to the
Airport District, where tasting and tap rooms
for all three craft beverages are housed in the
World War II Army base. Get caffeinated
at Walla Walla Roastery or relax with a
black ale on the lawn of Burwood Brewing
Company. You can sample Walla Walla wines
in the form of brandy by the fireside in DW
Distilling’s tasting room. It’s worth making the
appointment to visit Walla Walla Distilling
Company in the old guard station, where you
can sip a lavender-forward gin in the funky
tasting room made from recycled materials.
Make Quirk Brewing and Agapas Mexican
Cravings food truck your final stop. Check
out the eclectic tap list, then ask for an ale
made with local Mainstem Malt. After the
friendly pourer tells you its local grainto-glass
story, you’ve probably identified
a pattern of camaraderie and community
pride that runs through the veins of everyone
here. I’m not allowed to call myself a local
yet, but when I am, I’ll be proud to call Walla
Walla home.
80 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

REALLY GOOD WINE
MADE IN DUNDEE, OREGON
WINEBYJOE.COM | @WINEBYJOE
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northwest destination
DANCIN Vineyards is an Italian villastyle
tasting spot in Medford.
Southern Oregon Wineries in the Fall
Head to Oregon’s other wine country for culture, cafés and carafes of wine
written by Kevin Max
Andrea Johnson Photography
ANY WAY YOU propel yourself
through Southern Oregon—walking,
cycling or driving—you can connect
the natural and cultural dots that
make this region the sketchbook of
wine lovers. There are rolling hills
that run into the forested Siskiyous,
valleys with generous exposure to
the sun, small towns with upscale
dining from local bounty and
world-class Shakespearean theater
at its heart. Taken together, these
things make for the quintessential
Oregon getaway.
This trip builds around the tickets
for any performance at the Oregon
Shakespeare Festival. The 2018
season ends in mid-October with
Henry V and Romeo and Juliet on the
Shakespeare stages and Manahatta
and Snow in Midsummer, among
others, on the modern stage. The
2019 season picks up again in March,
with As You Like It and Hairspray,
for starters.
I remember being in the audience
for my first big production play. It was
nowhere near the professional level as
OSF, yet left an indelible mark on the
younger me. Bringing your own kids
to OSF is more magical than Disney.
Hie thee now from bard to bounty.
Southern Oregon wineries are not
an undifferentiated bundle of grapes.
The wineries and regions here are
as distinct as the varietals—from
cooler Burgundian pinot noirs and
chardonnay in the Umpqua region to
Spanish, Italian and Rhone wines in
the southern regions.
Irvine & Roberts is a comely
winery in the rolling hills of the
southern Cascades and
Siskiyou ranges 5 miles
southeast of Ashland. The
tasting room and patio
There are rolling hills
that run into the forested
Siskiyous, valleys with
generous exposure to
the sun, small towns with
upscale dining from local
bounty and world-class
Shakespearean theater at
its heart. Taken together,
these things make
for the quintessential
Oregon getaway.
82 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

or Facebook for info ab
Discover
Southern Oregon.
seeing you soon at Kriselle Cellars!
541.830.8466 (VINO)
12956 Modoc Rd. White City, OR
Plan your next trip to the Rogue Valley
in sunny Southern Oregon to enjoy our
Tasting Room and our award-winning
wines.
krisellecellars.com | 541.830.8466
Crater Lake National Park. Wine country.
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Performing arts. Bursting culinary scene.
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Wine Tasting Daily Noon to 5pm.
Just 2 miles off I-5, left at exit 35. | Central Point, OR
Next to the world famous Rogue Creamery.
(541) 664-2218
LedgerDavid.com

northwest destination
SOUTHERN OREGON WINE COUNTRY
EAT
The Twisted Cork
www.thetwistedcorkgrantspass.
com
Porters
www.porterstrainstation.com
Hearsay
www.hearsayashland.com
Larks
www.larksrestaurant.com
Smithfields
www.smithfieldsashland.com
Jacksonville Inn
www.jacksonvilleinn.com
Rogue Grape
www.theroguegrape.com
Urban Cork
www.theurbancork.com
STAY
Ashland Hills
www.ashlandhillshotel.com
Peerless
www.peerlesshotel.com
Lodge at Riverside
www.thelodgeatriverside.com
Elan
www.elanguestsuites.com
PLAY
Oregon Shakespeare Festival
www.osfashland.org
Irvine & Roberts
www.irvinerobertsvineyards.
com
DANCIN
www.dancinvineyards.com
Cliff Creek Cellars
www.cliffcreek.com
Augustino Estate
www.augustinoestate.com
Wooldridge Creek WInery
www.wcwinery.com
serve as much as a serene getaway as they do
a platform for lovely wines. The first acres
planted were pinot noir and chardonnay in
2007, before planting pinot meunier in 2012.
The chardonnay is exceptional, as is its pinot
noir, but the pinot meunier steals the show.
DANCIN Vineyards—a crush of the prenoms
Dan and Cindy Marca, the hardworking
proprietors of this Italianate retreat in
Medford—is another favorite. Not only does
DANCIN have the best label art, its dining and
wine-tasting spaces inspire conversation. If not
for the camera function to capture the beautiful
vistas, cell phones would be neglected in favor
of old-fashioned banter.
Another favorite of ours is Cliff Creek Cellars.
The cabernet sauvignon, syrah and Super
Tuscan are fantastic in the bucolic Gold Hill
vineyard. Cliff Creek also has a tasting room
up north in Newberg. If you’re passing through
Newberg on another wine tour, put Cliff Creek
Cellars on your list. Set in a renovated bank
with Ionic columns and a vault used as a wine
cellar, this tasting room has patina.
Augustino in the Illinois Valley offers its
visitors two experiences—a tasting in the old
red barn near Grants Pass and the more lofty
tasting room in a treehouse in O’Brien, 7 miles
southwest of Cave Junction.
Wooldridge Creek Winery in the Applegate
Valley got an early jump on others, planting
grapes for hobby wine in 1978. Over time,
it grew into a producer of grapes for other
regional winemakers. Today, Wooldridge
T. Charles Erickson.
FROM LEFT The Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s Allen
Elizabethan Theatre during OSF’s 2013 production of A
Midsummer Night’s Dream. Irvine & Roberts’ patio is a great
spot for a short getaway.
Creek is a farming mecca, producing great
wines, cheese at its creamery and its own
charcuterie. Either visit its tasting room,
Vinfarm, in Grants Pass, where the winery
serves its cheese and charcuterie in a brickwalled
den, or head out to the winery and farm
for expansive views.
There are too many amazing wines and
tasting experiences to get to in one visit. Valley
View Winery in the Applegate Valley is one.
Try the chardonnay and viognier.
In Medford, the downtown wine scene is
coming to life with tasting rooms, including
Urban Cork and the new Rogue Grape, a brick
building with local and regional wines in house.
In a climate where wine grapes thrive,
naturally so does other produce and meat,
setting the table for some of the state’s best
farm-to-table restaurants. In Ashland, Hearsay,
Larks and Smithfields are a few that top the
charts for local and exquisite. In Jacksonville,
Gogi’s and Jacksonville Inn are favorites, the
latter for its atmosphere and wine selection and
the former for its mustard-crusted filet mignon
and cocktails.
In Medford try Porters, a renovated train
station with local fare and more than thirty
wines by the glass. In Grants Pass, The Twisted
Cork fits nicely into the theme of local food
and wine.
Just a few years ago, the Southern Oregon
wine scene was sleepy and largely unheralded.
Today its wines are garnering top honors and
its restaurants are the epitome of bounty.
Cornelius Matteo
84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Eat.
Drink.
Explore.
See Albany
Discover Oregon
Historic Homes Destination
Fabulous cuisine,
artisanal brews,
historic districts,
architectural wonders.
541-928-0911
www.albanyvisitors.com
110 3rd Ave SE
Albany, OR 97321

1889 MAPPED
The points of interest below are culled from
stories and events in this edition of 1889.
Oroville
Forks
Friday Harbor
Port Angeles Coupeville
Port
Townsend
Bellingham
Mount Vernon
Lakewood
Marysville
Everett
Okanogan
Republic
Colville
Newport
Aberdeen
South
Bend
Shelton
Montesano
Port Orchard
Cathlamet
Longview
Olympia
Chehalis
Kelso
Seattle
Bellevue
Renton
Kent
Federal Way
Tacoma
Ellensburg
Yakima
Waterville
Wenatchee
Ephrata
Prosser
Richland
Pasco
Wilbur
Kennewick
Ritzville
Dayton
Walla
Walla
Davenport
Spokane
Colfax
Pomeroy
Asotin
Vancouver
Stevenson
Goldendale
Live
Think
Explore
18
Kalama Harbor Lodge
38
Rover
66
Pacific Bonsai Museum
21
Cochinito Taqueria
40
Double Canyon Winery
68
Buoy 10
22
28
34
Cranberry farms
Modern Wagon
West Coast Sea Glass
41
42
44
UW-Gonzaga Regional
Health Partnership
UnCruise
Water From Wine
74
76
82
Eritage Resort
L’Ecole No. 41 Winery
Southern Oregon wine country
86 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

Enjoy your Hood River visit this fall
with these wonderful local shops!
PHOTOS: BLAINE FRANGER / BEAUTIFULHOODRIVER.COM
CHECK OUT THESE
LOCAL EVENTS!
Harvest Fest | Oct. 12-14
Holiday Open House | Nov. 16-18
Small Business Saturday | Nov. 24
Holiday Parade & Tree Lighting | Dec. 7
Hood River Foodie February | all month
Stay 2 consecutive nights in a Riverview
room at the Westcliff Lodge during your visit
to Hood River and receive a $50 voucher to
use at any of our local partner restaurants,
shops, and wineries. Call for details!
RECEIVE A
$50
VOUCHER
4070 Westcliff Dr., Hood River | 541-386-2992 | westclifflodge.com

Until Next Time
A Transformational Kayak Journey
written by Cheryl Dimof
IT WAS OUR LAST DAY on the island, and I asked myself if I had to go home. I could sneak off,
ditch work, responsibilities, and live out a castaway fantasy—at least for the short time our Pacific
Northwest weather would comfortably support it. There would, of course, be treks across the island to
Tillicum Village for smoked salmon and mimosas. One cannot rough it too much.
Twelve women, including our guides Maria Cook
and Spring Courtright—who lead three of these
“Transformational Kayak Journeys” every summer—
had paddled our kayaks 2.5 miles from Bainbridge
Island to Blake Island, accompanied by the occasional
harbor porpoise.
For three days and two nights, we camped on the sandy
northwest tip of the island. We hiked, made beach art, ate,
drank wine (I came prepared with my stainless-steel REI
stemware), read poetry and had a combination of “sharing
time” and quiet solo time. We turned off our cell phones,
broke free of social media and connected with nature,
each other and ourselves.
Yoga on the beach was among our island adventures. A
seaplane, landing nearby, disturbed our asanas. Emerging
from the plane was a neatly dressed young couple with a
picnic basket, which elicited gasps of excitement from our
group: “Look! He’s going to propose!” “It’s so romantic!”
“Let’s show them our butts!” Our intention of mindfulness
sparred with our voyeuristic tendencies. As we downward
dogged, we watched them sit down together on a log. As
we tadasana-ed, we watched them picnic. “I hope she says
yes after all this,” one woman observed. As we vrksasanaed,
we watched them kiss. They returned to the plane
accompanied by the sound of cheering women.
Our practice completed, we gathered our tarp, turned
our thoughts from yoga (and romance) and completed
our weekend adventure. Wind and waves challenged our
return home and, though the rudder on my kayak broke,
I was able to paddle my boat capably against the forces
of nature.
Was the journey transformational? I’m sure it was for
the couple beginning their lives together. Perhaps someday
the story they tell their children will include a bunch of
wild middle-aged yoginis. As for me, I was reminded that
I could do without too much extra stuff—without the REI
stemware or the iPhone. That not every adventure has to
be Instagrammed. That I could, in fact, paddle my own
canoe (or, in this case, kayak). I ditched my recent favorite
outdoor buzz phrase of “I love not camping,” and learned
that, in this second childhood of mine, pitching a tent on
the beach is, once again, awesome.
The island calls me to visit again soon to live out a bit
more of my castaway (but with drinks and appetizers and
yoga) fantasy.
Sometimes I get what I’ve heard is called fernweh—an
aching for faraway places I’ve never been. But experiences
like this remind me that the Pacific Northwest is special
and renews my appreciation and gratitude for this
beautiful corner of the world that I call home.
88 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2018

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FOR THE CHEESE
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Washington dairy. As delicious as our state is beautiful.
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AMAZED
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