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LIVE THINK EXPLORE WASHINGTON<br />

<strong>October</strong> | <strong>November</strong> volume 11


You’re<br />

Welcome<br />

...here.<br />

Step into the Urban Wine Tour.<br />

A wonderfully walkable wine experience.<br />

Taste them all - we don’t judge.<br />

visitspokane.com | #lovespokane


FEATURES<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> • volume 11<br />

58<br />

Wind Wranglers<br />

Every year, Long Beach<br />

transforms during the<br />

weeklong Washington State<br />

International Kite Festival.<br />

photography by<br />

Kate Daigneault<br />

46<br />

Tripping Over Washington<br />

Wine Country<br />

We scoured the state for the<br />

best wine-tasting experiences<br />

around Washington, from big-city<br />

views to island life.<br />

written by Viki Eierdam<br />

52<br />

Preserving the Past<br />

The complicated legacy of Hanford<br />

lives on thanks to a national park<br />

and other history initiatives.<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

Kate Daigneault<br />

A couple looks out at the<br />

Washington State International<br />

Kite Festival from nearby dunes.


Alaska<br />

Awakening<br />

Just you and a few locals—Sitka deer, bears, moose, seals, sea otter<br />

pups, and migrating birds and whales. Peaks covered in snow. Budding<br />

forests. Northern lights and rainbows. Waterfalls rush, meltwaters flow,<br />

and calving glaciers send bergy bits on their merry way. For many,<br />

April and May is their favorite time of year.<br />

small ships, BIG adventures<br />

KAYAK l HIKE l SKIFF l CULTURE l WILDLIFE<br />

7-, 8- & 14-night adventure cruises • 22 to 90 guests • Apr-Sep<br />

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74<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> • volume 11<br />

LIVE<br />

14 SAY WA?<br />

Get into the fall spirit with Thanksgiving in Wine Country and other<br />

autumn events. Then, take a page from Nancy Blakey’s new book<br />

and get outside for an adventure or two.<br />

18 FOOD + DRINK<br />

McMenamins’ Kalama Harbor Lodge serves up all the charm,<br />

Rachel’s Ginger Beer provides an alternative treat, plus our picks for<br />

the best places for coffee around the state.<br />

22 FARM TO TABLE<br />

Pass the cranberry relish—hopefully made with berries from<br />

Washington’s cranberry bogs in Grayland.<br />

26 HOME + DESIGN<br />

Two designers merge form and function to create beautiful, liveable<br />

tiny homes.<br />

Fire & Vine Hospitality<br />

21 68<br />

32 MIND + BODY<br />

Like father, like son—the Millimans are gold-medal winners at the<br />

National Senior Games.<br />

34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE<br />

Mary Beth Beuke makes one-of-a-kind jewelry creations through her<br />

company, West Coast Sea Glass.<br />

THINK<br />

38 STARTUP<br />

Search no more for a pet-sitter. Seattle’s Rover comes to the rescue.<br />

Through Stories<br />

Justin Bailie<br />

10<br />

11<br />

86<br />

88<br />

Editor’s Letter<br />

<strong>1889</strong> Online<br />

Map of Washington<br />

Until Next Time<br />

40 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />

New wine-tasting options pop up around the state.<br />

41 WHAT I’M WORKING ON<br />

Dr. Darryl Potok talks medical education in Spokane.<br />

42 MY WORKSPACE<br />

UnCruise Adventures’ Sue Rooney says she has the best job in the<br />

world—and we can’t disagree.<br />

44 GAME CHANGER<br />

Water from Wine sells wine to pay for worldwide clean-water projects.<br />

EXPLORE<br />

66 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT<br />

Federal Way’s Pacific Bonsai Museum presents its bonsai as fine<br />

art pieces.<br />

68 ADVENTURE<br />

Join a novice on a charter salmon-fishing trip along the Columbia River.<br />

74 LODGING<br />

Eritage Resort is an adults-only oasis in Walla Walla, just right for the<br />

wine lover in your life.<br />

76 TRIP PLANNER<br />

Walla Walla is a southeastern Washington charmer with more than<br />

just wine to please the palate.<br />

COVER<br />

photo courtesy of Alexandria Nicole Cellars<br />

(see Tripping Over Washington Wine Country, pg. 46)<br />

82 NORTHWEST DESTINATION<br />

Southern Oregon is the state’s other wine country, and its small towns<br />

hide local bounty and cultural experiences.<br />

6 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


theevocative<br />

Truffles<br />

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Oregon’s Winter<br />

Food, Wine,<br />

Truffle Hunting,<br />

and Marketplace<br />

Extravaganza<br />

The Joriad<br />

North American<br />

Truffle Dog Championship<br />

January 24, 2019<br />

Eugene and<br />

Willamette Valley<br />

Truffle Country<br />

January 25 – 27, 2019<br />

Yamhill Valley<br />

Wine Country<br />

February 15 – 17, 2019<br />

TICKETS<br />

oregontrufflefestival.org<br />

sensual<br />

coming...<br />

angela estate | eugene cascades and coast | food for lane county | hilton eugene | j. scott cellars | king estate | mountain rose herbs<br />

new world truffieres | oregon culinary institute | oregon wine press | provisions market hall | red hills market | travel oregon | viking braggot co.


CONTRIBUTORS<br />

LAURA CHERAU<br />

Writer<br />

Adventure<br />

After watching so many people<br />

fish on the Columbia River for<br />

years and years, I decided to<br />

try my luck on opening day<br />

of Buoy 10. I will admit I was<br />

a total novice in the fishing<br />

department. With no experience<br />

whatsoever, would chartering<br />

a very fast boat be any fun? Of<br />

course. Is it worth it to get out<br />

there and try something new? It<br />

totally is.<br />

(pg. 68)<br />

JUSTIN BAILIE<br />

Photographer<br />

Adventure<br />

Astoria, Oregon, is one of my<br />

favorite places to photograph.<br />

It’s a beautiful town with so<br />

much history, and most of it<br />

came to be because of the<br />

Columbia River and salmon.<br />

Since I grew up in the area, the<br />

guide and I knew many of the<br />

same people and had a great<br />

time talking about our home.<br />

And even though we didn’t<br />

catch a lot of fish, the weather<br />

was about as good as it gets.<br />

(pg. 68)<br />

VIKI EIERDAM<br />

Writer<br />

Tripping Over Washington<br />

Wine Country<br />

Exploring a hobby or interest<br />

along the road adds another<br />

layer to the travel experience,<br />

and the geographic diversity<br />

of Washington is a wine lover’s<br />

playground. From urban wineries<br />

in a bustling city to a mountain<br />

town slathered in European<br />

charm, Washington is brimming<br />

with adventures between the<br />

vines. Here’s hoping you have<br />

as much fun as I did seeking out<br />

fresh ways to savor wine.<br />

(pg. 46)<br />

KATE DAIGNEAULT<br />

Photographer<br />

Gallery<br />

I’ve been to Long Beach quite a<br />

few times, but the Kite Festival<br />

makes it come alive. I love how<br />

it attracts kite enthusiasts of<br />

all levels and from all over.<br />

Everyone proudly flies their<br />

favorite kites, whether they are<br />

competing or not. It makes for<br />

such a surreal scene having<br />

the sky filled with colorful<br />

shapes and characters. The<br />

choreographed kite ballet is my<br />

favorite, and the large kite field<br />

just can’t be missed.<br />

(pg. 58)<br />

8 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


EDITOR<br />

MANAGING EDITOR<br />

CREATIVE<br />

MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER<br />

OFFICE MANAGER<br />

DIRECTOR OF SALES<br />

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES<br />

BEERVANA COLUMNIST<br />

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

Kevin Max<br />

Sheila G. Miller<br />

Allison Bye<br />

Kelly Rogers<br />

Cindy Miskowiec<br />

Jenny Kamprath<br />

Cindy Guthrie<br />

Jenn Redd<br />

Jackie Dodd<br />

Melissa Dalton, Cheryl Dimof, Viki Eierdam, Catie Joyce-Bulay,<br />

Lauren Kramer, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Cara Strickland,<br />

Chad Walsh, Corinne Whiting<br />

Justin Bailie, Kate Daigneault, Gemina Garland-Lewis<br />

Statehood Media<br />

Mailing Address<br />

70 SW Century Dr.<br />

Suite 100-218<br />

Bend, Oregon 97702<br />

Portland Address<br />

1801 NW Upshur St.<br />

Suite 100<br />

Portland, Oregon 97209<br />

<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/subscribe<br />

@<strong>1889</strong>washington<br />

Printed in Canada<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding<br />

photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs<br />

appearing in <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s<br />

Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not<br />

neCessarily those of <strong>1889</strong> Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9


FROM THE<br />

EDITOR<br />

WELCOME TO THE <strong>1889</strong> fall wine issue. I<br />

don’t have problems associating good wine with<br />

all seasons, personally, but fall is the harvest and<br />

crush, the barrel tasting and the season to do it<br />

all in proper attire.<br />

Washington has so many world-class wineries<br />

and winemakers that it’s necessary to find a<br />

single organizing thread within this vast class to<br />

pursue. In this issue, we seek a cross-section of<br />

the state’s most scenic wineries—from Lummi<br />

Island to Vancouver to Woodinville, Yakima to<br />

Walla Walla. After all, wine is an experience,<br />

and how and where you have it become a part of<br />

your overall first impression. (If you can’t make<br />

it out to one of our scenic wineries, you can go<br />

local. What’s Going Up on page 40 reveals three<br />

new wine cellars and bars in Woodinville, West<br />

Richland and on Mercer Island.)<br />

Our Trip Planner and Northwest Destination<br />

pieces are both centered on wine-growing<br />

regions, too. Trip Planner (page 76) will bring<br />

new reasons to visit Walla Walla. Northwest<br />

Destination (page 82) takes us down south to<br />

Southern Oregon’s Applegate, Rogue and Illinois<br />

valleys, where hidden-gem wineries are tucked back in the hills.<br />

Farmer and winemaker Pat Tucker talks to us about using<br />

wine for a higher cause. In Game Changer on page 44, we<br />

delve Tucker’s devotion of 6 acres of wine to nonprofits that<br />

help provide people with clean water. In its first harvest under<br />

this program in 2014, Water for Wine donated 100 percent of<br />

proceeds of 984 cases.<br />

Over on the coast, we wade into cranberry bogs in Grayland<br />

alongside cranberry farmer Matt Reichenberger. The second<br />

week of <strong>October</strong> brings Grayland’s cranberry harvest, the<br />

Cranberry Harvest Festival and the cranberry cook-off. If you<br />

can’t make it out for this event, support Washington cranberry<br />

growers by buying Washington cranberries and trying one of<br />

our recipes (on page 25) this holiday season.<br />

One of the more intriguing stories of the issue lies in the<br />

pages of Small Wonders on page 26. We get an inside look at<br />

two innovative tiny houses in Olympia and Wenatchee whose<br />

designers have made the tiny movement big.<br />

My favorite of this issue, however, has nothing to do with<br />

wine or small homes, but a relic of WWII. This is a fascinating<br />

piece about the history of the Hanford Nuclear Site and its<br />

plutonium-production role in the Manhattan Project. As one of<br />

three secret sites working in tandem to harness nuclear fission<br />

for the bombs that would end WWII, Hanford is an interesting<br />

piece of world history that has been preserved as a National<br />

Historic Park, with tours for the public. “I think by studying the<br />

past, we get a better sense for the present,” observed Atomic<br />

Heritage Foundation president, Cindy Kelly.<br />

Perhaps now more than ever, the past holds keys to<br />

understanding our present. Cheers!<br />

10 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


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Washington: In Focus<br />

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OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 11


SAY WA? 14<br />

FOOD + DRINK 18<br />

FARM TO TABLE 22<br />

Gemina Garland-Lewis<br />

HOME + DESIGN 26<br />

MIND + BODY 32<br />

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 34<br />

pg. 22<br />

Washington cranberries are a perfect fall flavor.


2019<br />

As You Like It<br />

By William Shakespeare<br />

Directed by Rosa Joshi<br />

Tickets on<br />

Sale Starting<br />

<strong>November</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Angus Bowmer Theatre<br />

Hairspray<br />

The Broadway Musical<br />

Book by Mark O’Donnell and Thomas Meehan<br />

Music by Marc Shaiman<br />

Lyrics by Scott Wittman and Marc Shaiman<br />

Based on the New Line Cinema film written<br />

and directed by John Waters<br />

Directed by Christopher Liam Moore<br />

Mother Road<br />

By Octavio Solis<br />

Directed by Bill Rauch<br />

World Premiere<br />

Indecent<br />

By Paula Vogel<br />

Directed by Shana Cooper<br />

American Revolutions<br />

Cambodian Rock Band<br />

By Lauren Yee<br />

Featuring songs by Dengue Fever<br />

Directed by Chay Yew<br />

Thomas Theatre<br />

Between Two Knees<br />

By the 1491s<br />

Directed by Eric Ting<br />

World Premiere/American Revolutions<br />

How to Catch Creation<br />

By Christina Anderson<br />

Directed by Nataki Garrett<br />

Allen Elizabethan Theatre<br />

Macbeth<br />

By William Shakespeare<br />

Directed by José Luis Valenzuela<br />

Alice in Wonderland<br />

By Eva Le Gallienne and Florida Friebus<br />

Adapted from Lewis Carroll<br />

Directed by Sara Bruner<br />

All’s Well That Ends Well<br />

By William Shakespeare<br />

Directed by Tracy Young<br />

Pilot Community Visit Project<br />

La Comedia of Errors<br />

Bilingual Play on! translation by Luis Alfaro<br />

Directed by Bill Rauch<br />

2019 opening weekend: March 8 – 10<br />

Playbill subject to change<br />

March 1 – <strong>October</strong> 27<br />

Artistic Director<br />

Bill Rauch<br />

Executive Director<br />

Cynthia Rider<br />

www.osfashland.org<br />

1.800.219.8161<br />

Two World Premieres<br />

and one short play about<br />

a long separation<br />

Oklahoma! (<strong>2018</strong>): Royer Bockus, Tatiana<br />

Wechsler. Photo by Jenny Graham.


say wa?<br />

mark your<br />

calendar<br />

Tidbits & To-dos<br />

Bee Bar Lotion<br />

These decorative tins from Honey House<br />

Naturals contain a lotion that is incredibly longlasting—six<br />

months to be exact. Simply warm<br />

the Bee Bar Lotion up in your hands and enjoy.<br />

Packed with rich emollients and essential oils, it’s<br />

the perfect thing to have on hand as the weather<br />

turns colder.<br />

www.honeyhousenaturals.com<br />

Pumpkin Bash<br />

Celebrate Halloween this year at the Woodland Park Zoo<br />

for the annual Pumpkin Bash on <strong>October</strong> 27 and 28. This<br />

family-friendly event gets the zoo animals playing with<br />

their very own pumpkins as part of an ongoing enrichment<br />

program. See tigers, bears, hippos, lemurs and many more<br />

smash, stomp and roll their pumpkin toys. There will also be<br />

trick-or-treating for kids. One child 12 or under in costume<br />

gets free admission with a paying adult.<br />

www.zoo.org/events<br />

mark your<br />

calendar<br />

Northwest Chocolate Festival<br />

The Northwest Chocolate Festival is the premier<br />

event to attend if you have a sweet tooth. There<br />

are chocolate exhibits on display with more than<br />

eighty tasting workshops, a 21-and-over lounge,<br />

and a chocolate factory. Pick out a few holiday<br />

gifts while you’re there and be sure to sample the<br />

beer, wine and spirits.<br />

www.nwchocolate.com<br />

14 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


say wa?<br />

Halfpops<br />

Thanksgiving in Wine Country<br />

Celebrate Thanksgiving weekend in Washington wine country this year, <strong>November</strong><br />

23-25. Many wineries throughout the Yakima Valley will offer special tastings, food<br />

pairings, live music and special holiday deals. Find out from winemakers and chefs<br />

which wines pair best with seasonal and traditional favorites.<br />

www.yakimavalleywinecountry.com<br />

mark your<br />

calendar<br />

Are you the type of person who<br />

loves when the popcorn is almost<br />

gone so you can eat the halfpopped<br />

corn in the bottom of<br />

the bowl? This Seattle company<br />

created a snack that is just<br />

that. We’re just wondering why<br />

no one thought of this sooner.<br />

Halfpops is sold in specialty<br />

markets around Washington and<br />

is available in seven tasty flavors.<br />

www.halfpops.com<br />

Spiced Cider Mix<br />

MarketSpice has a new product just in<br />

time for fall—its very own blend of mulling<br />

spices with allspice, orange peel, cinnamon<br />

and cloves. Enjoy this blend as a traditional<br />

spiced cider or use it as the perfect base for<br />

your hot spiced wine recipe.<br />

www.marketspice.com<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15


say wa?<br />

Janet Allison<br />

Musician<br />

Dream Team<br />

Jazz stars unite to make music<br />

written by Ben Salmon<br />

THIS FALL, Washington jazz luminaries Jay Thomas and<br />

Oliver Groenewald will release a new album, I Always Knew,<br />

powered by Groenewald’s “little big band,” NewNet.<br />

It took a confluence of circumstances for the work to<br />

even exist. First, the two had to meet many years ago,<br />

when Groenewald, a native of Germany, was engaged in<br />

post-graduate work in the United States. Then, five years<br />

ago, Groenewald—a trumpeter, composer and arranger—<br />

contacted his old friend Thomas about gathering players to<br />

perform some of his works.<br />

Thomas—one of Seattle’s finest saxophonists—called the<br />

“best guys in the area,” he said, and jumped at the chance to<br />

play Groenewald’s music.<br />

“I love Oliver’s arranging so much,” he said, “and I have been<br />

thinking on an ambitious project for some time.”<br />

Thomas’ father had been encouraging him to do an album<br />

of ballads, he said, and with Groenewald on board—as well as<br />

his elegant arrangements that give sturdy American jazz some<br />

effortless European flavor—it seemed like the time was right.<br />

“(With ballads), the trick is to have it be strong and exciting<br />

as well as lyrical and soulful, with sections that are faster and<br />

higher and louder,” Thomas said. “I chose some songs that are<br />

lesser known because I love them.”<br />

Thomas, Groenewald and the rest of NewNet spent a<br />

couple days recording at Robert Lang Studios in Shoreline.<br />

“The old-fashioned way,” Thomas said. “All in the same room<br />

and no headphones.”<br />

The result is twelve tracks of sumptuous, swinging jazz,<br />

including Dexter Gordon’s “Ernie’s Tune,” Hoagy Carmichael’s<br />

“Stardust” and Duke Ellington’s “Blue Serge.” All but one are<br />

arranged by Groenewald, who also contributed a couple<br />

original songs.<br />

“The tapestries of sound that Oliver constructed are<br />

amazing and unique and different, like Gil Evans mixed with<br />

Stravinsky, and never interfering with my train of thought<br />

as an improviser,” Thomas said. “They sound mature, and<br />

the music has a vibe that is a result of the band’s collective<br />

experience, and of course a love of the music, respect for each<br />

other and the joy of creating something new together.”<br />

MORE ONLINE<br />

For more information and to find upcoming concerts, head to<br />

www.jaythomasjazz.com and www.olivergroenewald.com<br />

16 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


say wa?<br />

Bibliophile<br />

On the Wild Side<br />

New book wants to make<br />

outdoors accessible to all<br />

interview by Sheila G. Miller<br />

NANCY BLAKEY wants you to get outside.<br />

Damn the rain—just go for it.<br />

Blakey, a mother of four, wrote five<br />

books based on a syndicated column called<br />

Mudpies, which she wrote for Seattle’s Child.<br />

In the books, she came up with interesting<br />

activities kids could do instead of watching TV<br />

or playing video games.<br />

“I believe in benign neglect,” she said of her<br />

way of raising children. “All the projects I ever<br />

saw, you had to do with the kids. They felt fussy,<br />

and you had to show the kids what to do and<br />

supervise them. My philosophy was just sort<br />

of hands off, which is what true creativity is.”<br />

Her new book, By The Shore: Explore the<br />

Pacific Northwest Coast Like A Local, which<br />

came out in May, is a similar approach,<br />

just for grownups. The book gives readers<br />

ideas for accessing the outdoors and the<br />

wilderness, season by season, with activities,<br />

advice and recipes.<br />

“My ideal reader is a couch potato who’s<br />

kind of restless,” Blakey said. “A lot of people<br />

are super outdoorsy, and those people may<br />

enjoy the book. But my goal is, I really want to<br />

get people outside.”<br />

Nick Hall<br />

What was the research for this<br />

book like?<br />

When I was first asked to propose<br />

the book, I said, ‘I don’t want to do<br />

a typical guidebook—I don’t want<br />

to do Fodor’s. I want to do polar<br />

bear plunges and beach fires.<br />

Sasquatch Books was great—they<br />

let me run with it and gave me free<br />

rein. So I just put in there things I<br />

wanted to do, or things I wanted<br />

to explore, or things I had already<br />

done that I wanted to share with<br />

others. I’ve always been pretty<br />

outdoorsy, but that had slid away.<br />

You just get buried with work and<br />

kids. I had this light bulb after<br />

meeting a woman who said, ‘Oh<br />

you live on Bainbridge Island? You<br />

must be hiking and kayaking all the<br />

time.’ It was kind of embarrassing.<br />

So I began exploring and hiking. I<br />

live in Alaska in the summers, and<br />

the backcountry is so unforgiving<br />

that it’s made me a pretty astute<br />

outdoors person. You have to<br />

know what you’re doing. So I<br />

brought that into my book.<br />

How did you settle on the<br />

format? I love the way you give<br />

advice.<br />

The idea actually came from my<br />

editor, Hannah Elnan. This book<br />

is technically geared toward<br />

millennials. One of them wanted<br />

to go salmon fishing but didn’t<br />

know where to start and didn’t<br />

want to appear stupid. So we<br />

came up with this idea of a<br />

guidebook. All these people<br />

have come to Seattle or the<br />

Pacific Northwest, so Hannah<br />

suggested, ‘How about you guide<br />

us? How about you teach us?’<br />

The back story is my husband<br />

died suddenly five years ago.<br />

He was delivering a motorcycle<br />

to Loreto in Baja Mexico and<br />

he had a heart attack. I was<br />

blindsided, and my whole family<br />

spent a couple years reeling. The<br />

book absolutely was one of the<br />

things that brought me back to<br />

the things I love, and to life again.<br />

The outdoors has always been<br />

a real consolation to me, and to<br />

take family members and friends<br />

and do the research tailored to<br />

whoever I was with and what they<br />

were interested in really brought<br />

me out of that gray zone and<br />

showed me that the world was<br />

still waiting. I have years ahead<br />

of me, hopefully, and the book<br />

was really instrumental for me. It<br />

brought me back around.<br />

What was your favorite<br />

adventure you did for the book?<br />

Solo hiking has always interested<br />

me, and I’d done a night here and<br />

a night there solo. But it’s kind of<br />

daunting as a woman to go by<br />

yourself. I really, really wanted to<br />

do it. It was part of my healing<br />

to get out there and face it with<br />

squared shoulders. Men do it all<br />

the time and nobody blinks, but<br />

a woman does it, and it’s like, ‘Oh<br />

no!’ I did The Juan de Fuca Trail on<br />

Vancouver Island. It was incredible,<br />

it was daunting, it was hard. I got<br />

muddy and bruised, but I just<br />

really loved it. Plus, I did it—now<br />

I can do it without blinking. Just<br />

like any endeavor, you put one<br />

foot in front of another. I don’t<br />

think anyone ever goes outside<br />

and comes back in and says, ‘Oh, I<br />

wish I hadn’t done that.’<br />

How do you hope people use<br />

your book?<br />

I hope it feels accessible. My<br />

intention is to make the outdoors<br />

accessible for everyone, a family<br />

or a 30-something or a boomer. I<br />

want the book to scale up or scale<br />

down. I think it’s really important<br />

for people to understand that<br />

spending time outdoors is one of<br />

the most valuable things they can<br />

do for their wellbeing. More and<br />

more research is showing that<br />

the outdoors is, in a way, critical<br />

to our sense of contentment and<br />

de-stressing.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17


food + drink<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Beers on<br />

tap include Kalama-only offerings.<br />

Views of the Columbia River abound.<br />

Totem poles have been on site for<br />

more than forty years. Ahles Point<br />

cabin is a cozy spot for a drink.<br />

Beervana<br />

The Clamor in Kalama<br />

written and photographed by Jackie Dodd<br />

KALAMA IS A small rail town and a shipping port that’s<br />

easy to pass without notice. Charming even from a distance<br />

but forgettable once you’ve reached your final stop, the<br />

small town of Kalama is now officially “destination worthy.”<br />

With their signature combination of upcycled antiques<br />

and local artisan creations, the McMenamin brothers have<br />

brought the familiar stay-and-play hotel chain to a quietly<br />

captivating stretch of the Columbia River, just fortyfive<br />

minutes north of Portland. Kalama Harbor Lodge is<br />

absolutely worth any effort it takes to get there.<br />

In some ways, it’s exactly what you’re used to, and in<br />

other ways, it’s a perfect step forward for the booze-andlodging<br />

brand. The beer, wine and food are what you<br />

expect—they won’t change the world but will make you<br />

full and content. After all, no one can really be mad with a<br />

full pint of a well-hopped beer and plate of Cajun tater tots.<br />

The beer is both exactly the same core pours you’ve had at<br />

every location, as well as a healthy amount of impressive<br />

just-for-Kalama beer offerings (I’d recommend asking<br />

what’s new and limited release). The property is more<br />

beautiful than most of the renovated schoolhouses in the<br />

McMenamins portfolio, yet full of artfully crafted and wellplaced<br />

touches that sit like secrets waiting to be discovered.<br />

Two hidden passageways exist, concealed in plain sight<br />

behind paneled walls in different hallways, lovely murals<br />

depicting historical events adorn the walls throughout the<br />

grounds, and the architectural aesthetic was built to honor<br />

the Hawaiian heritage of the town’s founder, John Kalama.<br />

The property is one you’d do well to get lost in, grab and<br />

a pint and just wander the grounds. Cloud Bar, perched on<br />

top of the hotel, is the perfect place to start with views of<br />

the river not rivaled within 100 miles. From there (once<br />

you’ve located the secret passageways, of course), wander<br />

just south, past the three sky-scraping totem poles, along a<br />

sleepy little well-paved path to a small cabin on the shore.<br />

It’s not just any cabin, of course, it’s Ahles Point, the coziest<br />

place to enjoy a pint on the shores of the Columbia. A<br />

wood-burning fireplace, a small bar that seats only a few<br />

patrons, and a couple small tables are all you’ll find, making<br />

it the perfect place to enjoy a few beers and chat up the<br />

bartenders.<br />

It’s far enough away from the hustle of Seattle or Portland<br />

to feel like you’re on vacation, but it’s just a short drive,<br />

leaving you with a feeling of being a million miles away yet<br />

right at home. In a way, it’s like adult summer camp. The<br />

other lodgers don’t travel too far during their stay. You’ll<br />

see them again at the restaurants during meal times. On<br />

the shore are water activities, and it’s not unusual to hear<br />

singing and merriment once the sun goes down. People are<br />

friendly and easy to meet, the beer is cold and well-made,<br />

and even when the service is slow, you remember that’s<br />

because life is slow here, and that’s exactly why you came<br />

in the first place.<br />

18 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


food + drink<br />

Cocktail Card<br />

recipe courtesy of<br />

Heritage Distilling Company<br />

Brown Sugar<br />

Bourbon Horchata<br />

2 ounces Heritage Distilling brown<br />

sugar bourbon<br />

1 ounce horchata<br />

½ ounce cream of coconut<br />

Orange slice, for garnish<br />

Grated cinnamon, for garnish<br />

Pour all ingredients over ice and<br />

stir to mix. Garnish with orange<br />

and grated cinnamon.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19


food + drink<br />

CRAVINGS<br />

BAKED GOODS<br />

There’s really nothing like a<br />

piece of quiche from Brown<br />

Bear Baking—the contents<br />

are always changing. It’s worth<br />

getting there early in the day to<br />

make sure they don’t sell out<br />

and to get a great selection on<br />

all of the housemade pastries<br />

and goodies.<br />

29 NORTH BEACH ROAD #1966<br />

EASTSOUND<br />

www.facebook.com/BrownBearBaking<br />

BAVARIAN FOOD<br />

Enjoy German sausages<br />

(including a vegetarian option)<br />

along with craft beer in a fun,<br />

festive setting at München Haus.<br />

Top your sausages with a large<br />

assortment of mustard options,<br />

and don’t forget the cider kraut!<br />

709 FRONT STREET<br />

LEAVENWORTH<br />

www.munchenhaus.com<br />

Gastronomy<br />

Rachel’s Ginger Beer<br />

written by Cara Strickland<br />

FROM THE SEATTLE farmers markets to a spot in Pike’s Place Market and<br />

distribution all over the place (you can buy it on the website if no one stocks it<br />

locally), this company is a Washington success story. One sip will tell you why<br />

this delicious concoction has caught on. Founder Rachel Marshall was inspired<br />

to develop her product after living in Europe for several years after college. She’d<br />

never had traditional ginger beer before, but she was hooked and wanted to share<br />

what she’d found. Once back in the States, she went to work dialing in a recipe for<br />

her classic brew, later expanding to seasonal flavors as well. Now, there are four<br />

locations where you can fill a growler, get a Moscow Mule, or just sip straight<br />

ginger beer. But the company hasn’t forgotten its roots—you’ll still find RGB at the<br />

farmers markets.<br />

1530 POST ALLEY (FIND OTHER LOCATIONS ONLINE)<br />

SEATTLE<br />

www.rachelsgingerbeer.com<br />

Rachel’s Ginger Beer has four locations in Seattle and Portland.<br />

PORT-STYLE WINE<br />

Wander over to the Gilbert<br />

Cellars tasting room and<br />

treat yourself to a sip of the<br />

non-vintage port-style wine,<br />

made from favorite vintages of<br />

tempranillo (what the Portuguese<br />

call “Tinta Roriz”). It’s a lovely way<br />

to end a meal.<br />

5 NORTH FRONT STREET,<br />

SUITE 100<br />

YAKIMA<br />

www.gilbertcellars.com<br />

TOMATO BASIL<br />

BISQUE<br />

There’s nothing quite as<br />

comfortingly decadent as a<br />

hot bowl of tomato basil bisque,<br />

and Gunnar’s nails it. Pick up<br />

a cup of coffee or a sandwich<br />

while you’re there, or browse<br />

the natural market.<br />

811 HIGHWAY 970, SUITE #6<br />

CLE ELUM<br />

www.gunnarscommunity.com<br />

20 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


food + drink<br />

BEST PLACES FOR<br />

COFFEE<br />

OLYMPIA COFFEE<br />

ROASTING COMPANY<br />

Hip surroundings mean nothing<br />

if the coffee doesn’t deliver—but<br />

that’s just not the case here. Enjoy a<br />

variety of expertly roasted coffee—<br />

at the downtown location, you can<br />

watch roasting happen while you do.<br />

600 4TH AVENUE EAST<br />

OLYMPIA<br />

www.olympiacoffee.com<br />

(check website for other locations in<br />

Olympia, Tacoma, and West Seattle)<br />

SUNSHINE DRIP<br />

COFFEE LOUNGE<br />

This Whidbey Island spot makes a<br />

smooth, satisfying latte and doubles<br />

as a gift shop. Enjoy light food<br />

options as well for a quick breakfast<br />

or lunch.<br />

306 NORTH MAIN STREET<br />

COUPEVILLE<br />

www.facebook.com/sunshinedrip<br />

MONORAIL ESPRESSO<br />

Famous the world over for being<br />

the first-ever espresso cart,<br />

Monorail now has three locations<br />

to meet your coffee needs. It’s been<br />

delivering high-quality coffee since<br />

1980, adding homemade flavors<br />

(such as the delicious rose syrup)<br />

and baked goods along the way.<br />

510 PIKE STREET<br />

SEATTLE<br />

www.facebook.com/monorailespresso117657621584837<br />

(Additional locations in Westlake and<br />

Columbia Center)<br />

VESSEL<br />

COFFEE ROASTERS<br />

This cool spot roasts coffee on site,<br />

and its baristas are just waiting to<br />

share their coffee passion with you.<br />

Check out the housemade shrubs<br />

for a non-caffeinated treat.<br />

2823 NORTH MONROE STREET<br />

SPOKANE<br />

www.vesselroasters.com<br />

Photos: Through Stories<br />

Dining<br />

Cochinito Taqueria<br />

written by Cara Strickland<br />

TRAVIS DICKINSON and Justin Curtis met while working together at<br />

Spokane favorite Clover. Dickinson was the chef and Curtis ran the front of<br />

the house. When they teamed up to start their own chef-made taqueria in<br />

downtown Spokane, complete with housemade tortillas and a commitment to<br />

seasonal, local ingredients made at a fine-dining level, it was bound to be good.<br />

Dickinson drew on the food tradition he married into—his wife is originally from<br />

Sinaloa, Mexico. The results are sometimes surprisingly different, occasionally<br />

comfortingly familiar, but always worthwhile. Pair your tacos and appetizers<br />

with housemade sauces and salsas as well as thoughtfully curated beverages,<br />

including a fully stocked bar with a fresh, playful cocktail list. You can start small,<br />

but you’ll soon see why there’s a line just for people who want seconds.<br />

10 NORTH POST STREET<br />

SPOKANE<br />

www.cochinitotaqueria.com<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Cochinito’s tacos<br />

feature housemade tortillas. The taqueria<br />

has a full bar. Justin Curtis, left, and Travis<br />

Dickinson started the Spokane hot spot.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21


farm to table<br />

Cranberry farmer Matt Reichenberger talks<br />

about different berry varieties growing in his<br />

fields while riding on one of his track cars.<br />

Farm to Table<br />

Cranberries on the Coast<br />

This holiday treat is also a Washington crop<br />

written by Corinne Whiting<br />

photography by Gemina Garland-Lewis<br />

FOR CERTAIN PARTS of Washington, this season has<br />

one (delicious) focus—cranberries. Take Grayland, a<br />

picturesque spot on the Pacific Coast where salty air<br />

meets marshy land. It’s situated about two-and-a-half<br />

hours southwest of Seattle. Each autumn, a weekend<br />

of food-focused festivities enlivens the Grayland<br />

Community Hall, appropriately located on Cranberry<br />

Road. The venue was built in 1939 by industrious Finns<br />

who populated and harvested the region.<br />

Through the Years<br />

About 235 cranberry growers currently work on the West<br />

Coast, from Oregon to British Columbia. Cranberry farming<br />

in the southwest corner of Washington has a 100-year-plus<br />

history, and the cranberry bogs remain a cherished asset of<br />

Grayland. Although the fruit has always existed here, it wasn’t<br />

until the late 1800s that it was cultivated as a crop. While<br />

exploring the coastal stretches of Southwest Washington, a<br />

visitor from Massachusetts, Anthony Chabot, discovered native<br />

cranberries growing in bogs and flooded fields that reminded<br />

him of Cape Cod.<br />

Then, in 1912, Ed Benn planted Grayland’s first crop,<br />

convinced that the peat soil here could successfully cultivate<br />

commercial cranberries. Some of those vines still exist.<br />

Today, 99 percent of local growers are part of an Ocean Spray<br />

cooperative—a farmer-owned company of 700 families across<br />

North America. Grayland is also home to the famous Furford<br />

picker, a machine named after its inventor that harvests and<br />

prunes the cranberry crop.<br />

Leslie Eichner, executive director of the Westport Grayland<br />

Chamber of Commerce, explained that all but two farmers here<br />

use the labor-intensive dry-harvesting method, since they have<br />

no huge water source except for saltwater. On the other hand,<br />

cranberry farmers in Long Beach use water harvesting, thanks<br />

to their proximity to lakes.<br />

In Grayland, Wendy Hatton and her husband, Don,<br />

have been cranberry farming for more than thirty<br />

years. Their first harvest took place in 1972, and they<br />

have greatly expanded since then. Both of their sons<br />

22 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


farm to table<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 23


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Father-son duo Matt, left, and Mike Reichenberger farm cranberries in Grayland, as their family has done for several generations. Mike works on Furford<br />

cranberry pickers at the farm. Matt harvests some cranberries using an antique wooden cranberry scooper that he dates to the 1930s; the scooper has since been replaced with<br />

more efficient technology.<br />

are now growers, too, and they own just over 50 acres. The oldest<br />

vines on their property date back to the 1930s.<br />

Hatton’s parents always farmed in some manner, so when they<br />

saw an ad in the Aberdeen paper for a home swap, they decided<br />

to move the family into a teeny cabin set in the midst of prime<br />

farmland. Although Hatton said the job’s “not for everybody,”<br />

she said she got into the cranberry business because “I had<br />

farming experience. I could do it. I liked it.” She said it requires<br />

an incredible amount of work, but noted, “If you’re able to do it<br />

yourself, you can make a good living.”<br />

Hatton explained that hundreds of cranberry varieties exist,<br />

and once planted, it takes about five years to get a crop. Despite<br />

all the rules and regulations, she appreciates that cranberry<br />

farming allows her family to work when they want. And although<br />

they haven’t gotten there quite yet, she and her husband remain<br />

hopeful that—one day—they’ll be able to take off several months<br />

each winter.<br />

Hatton said summer months can be nearly as critical as harvest,<br />

as this is the time when the crops need “babysitting” and regular<br />

watering sessions, just like any garden. This rings especially true<br />

for this past summer, she said, which proved particularly dry.<br />

Festival Traditions Live On<br />

This year, the annual Cranberry Harvest Festival takes place<br />

<strong>October</strong> 13-14, but folks can enjoy the tasty, antioxidant-rich<br />

“superfood” all season long. Eichner, once a grower herself,<br />

became the festival organizer in 2013. Although the anticipated<br />

event reaches its twenty-fifth year this fall, Eichner described<br />

it as a delightfully “homespun” production that hasn’t evolved<br />

much over time.<br />

The festival’s turnout depends on the forecast, since the<br />

second weekend in <strong>October</strong> sometimes brings bad weather like<br />

sideways rain blowing away the tents of hardy outdoor vendors.<br />

Thankfully, there’s plenty of indoor space, too. The festival<br />

occurs with cranberry harvest in full swing, meaning visitors<br />

get to drive through the bogs and watch the action up close.<br />

Guided bus tours allow visitors to talk to farmers, watch them<br />

harvest and stroll through their warehouses.<br />

Other festival highlights include an eating contest for kids<br />

and adults, the 5K and 10K “Jog the Bog and Beach” and a<br />

competition to determine the biggest berry grown by local<br />

farmers. On Saturday evening at dusk, illuminated participants<br />

join the Firefly Parade. And of course, there’s the muchanticipated<br />

Cranberry Cook-off, with categories ranging from<br />

main courses and condiments to breads and desserts. “Some<br />

people absolutely won’t give over their recipes,” Eichner said,<br />

recalling a particularly delectable standout—cranberry clam<br />

fritters, served with a buttery sauce.<br />

“It’s the people coming in and being so interested in<br />

something specific to the region,” Eichner said of the festival.<br />

“It makes me happy.”<br />

24 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


farm to table<br />

Farro Salad with<br />

Cranberry Vinaigrette.<br />

Farro Salad with Cranberry<br />

Vinaigrette<br />

SEATTLE / Rider<br />

David Nichols<br />

SERVES 4<br />

Washington Recipes<br />

Cranberry Concoctions<br />

Pumpkin Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust & Cranberry Compote<br />

SEATTLE / Tilth<br />

Maria Hines and Joel Panlilio<br />

YIELDS ONE 9-INCH CHEESECAKE<br />

FOR COMPOTE<br />

2 cups cranberries (fresh or frozen,<br />

not canned)<br />

1 orange<br />

½ cup orange juice<br />

½ cup sugar<br />

½ cup maple syrup<br />

1 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled<br />

and sliced into 4 big chunks<br />

1 pinch of salt<br />

FOR CRUST<br />

12 ounces ginger snap cookies<br />

2 tablespoons brown sugar<br />

1 teaspoon ground ginger<br />

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon<br />

½ cup unsalted butter, melted<br />

FOR FILLING<br />

3 8-ounce packages of cream cheese,<br />

softened and room temperature<br />

1 ¼ cup sugar<br />

1 cup canned pumpkin purée<br />

2 teaspoons vanilla extract<br />

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon<br />

⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg<br />

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves<br />

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour<br />

3 whole eggs<br />

1 egg yolk<br />

1 pinch salt<br />

FOR COMPOTE<br />

Using a microplane, zest the orange. Set zest<br />

aside. Juice the orange and top off with more<br />

orange juice to get ½ cup of juice. Combine<br />

cranberries, orange zest, orange juice, sugar,<br />

maple syrup, ginger and salt in a heavybottom<br />

sauce pot. Bring to a boil and turn<br />

down to medium-low heat until cranberries<br />

start to soften and pop.<br />

FOR CRUST<br />

Break ginger snap cookies into small pieces<br />

and place in a food processor. Pulse until you<br />

get a crumb-like texture. Add ground spices<br />

and pulse to incorporate.<br />

In a medium bowl, mix crumbs and melted<br />

butter. Press the mixture flat onto the bottom<br />

of a springform pan. Set aside.<br />

FOR FILLING<br />

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Using an<br />

electric mixer, beat cream cheese and sugar<br />

in a bowl on low speed until smooth. Add<br />

pumpkin purée and beat until combined. Add<br />

vanilla extract and flour to the mixture and<br />

stir to combine. Add the eggs one at a time,<br />

mixing until each one is incorporated before<br />

adding the next one. Do the same with the<br />

egg yolk.<br />

Place the springform pan with the<br />

gingersnap crust on a rimmed baking sheet.<br />

Pour filling on top of crust and spread<br />

evenly. Place it in the oven and turn down<br />

temperature to 325 degrees. Bake for 1 hour<br />

and 45 minutes without opening oven door.<br />

Next, turn off the heat and leave cheesecake<br />

in for 20 more minutes.<br />

Pull cheesecake out and let cool completely<br />

on a cooling rack. After it has completely<br />

cooled, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate<br />

to set, about 4 to 6 hours. After cooling and<br />

slicing, serve with cranberry compote.<br />

MORE ONLINE<br />

2 cups farro<br />

1 large sweet potato, cubed<br />

4 tablespoons crumbled feta<br />

4 tablespoons toasted pepitas<br />

2 cups pickled cranberries<br />

1 head broccoli<br />

½ cup torn mint<br />

FOR CRANBERRY VINAIGRETTE<br />

1 cup picked cilantro leaves<br />

4 tablespoons dried cranberries<br />

1 tablespoons Dijon mustard<br />

Juice of 4 limes<br />

1 teaspoon chili flake<br />

½ cup olive oil<br />

Salt and pepper<br />

FOR PICKLED CRANBERRIES<br />

2 cups fresh cranberries<br />

1 cup red wine vinegar<br />

1 cup water<br />

1 teaspoon black peppercorns<br />

1 cinnamon stick<br />

Cook farro in boiling salted water until<br />

tender. Cool down and set aside until ready<br />

to use. Toss broccoli in olive oil and place on<br />

medium-high heat grill and cook for about 5<br />

to 6 minutes. Cube sweet potato, toss in olive<br />

oil and bake in 350-degree oven for 14 to 17<br />

minutes until tender. In a sauté pan, toast<br />

pepitas with 2 tablespoons of olive oil until<br />

golden brown.<br />

In a large bowl, mix farro with the roasted<br />

vegetables. Toss with cranberry vinaigrette,<br />

and place in large serving bowl. Top with<br />

crumbled feta, toasted pepitas and torn mint.<br />

FOR CRANBERRY VINAIGRETTE<br />

Chop cilantro and dried cranberries and place<br />

in mixing bowl. Add mustard, lime juice, chili<br />

flake, salt and pepper, slowly whisk in olive oil<br />

until emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning<br />

as needed.<br />

FOR PICKLED CRANBERRIES<br />

Boil all liquid, pour over fresh cranberries and<br />

let sit for three hours before using. You can<br />

make ahead and store in the fridge up to<br />

weeks ahead.<br />

Get cooking with more recipes<br />

at www.<strong>1889</strong>mag.com/recipes<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25


home + design<br />

Small Wonders<br />

Washington designers merge form<br />

and function in innovative tiny homes<br />

written by Melissa Dalton<br />

“My approach is<br />

not to lose track<br />

of what feels inspiring<br />

and functional. I try to<br />

always bring those<br />

two together.”<br />

— Abel Zyl<br />

26 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


home + design<br />

Photos: Abel Zyl<br />

FROM LEFT The Damselfly has thirteen windows and pale cabinetry. The roof looks like a breaking wave.<br />

Olympia: Modern engineering and old-school craft unite<br />

Twelve years ago, Abel Zyl was walking in his Olympia<br />

neighborhood when he saw an 84-square-foot house parked in<br />

a backyard. Its owner, he learned, was Dee Williams, a local<br />

advocate for minimalist living and the tiny house movement,<br />

who had designed and built the abode herself. When Zyl<br />

bumped into Williams at the food co-op some time later, he<br />

told her she had inspired him. “I ran into Dee, and I mentioned<br />

that I kind of wanted to build my own tiny house,” Zyl recalled.<br />

“She was like, ‘Kind of want to? You should do it.’” So, he did.<br />

The small-scale construction project presented a fun<br />

creative challenge to Zyl, who had previously worked as<br />

an electrician and house remodeler and also studied boat<br />

building in college. He pieced together his first design from<br />

an array of found materials—including salvaged wood, the<br />

remnants of his senior year boat project and objects picked<br />

up in dumpster dives. “I’ve always had an eye for free piles,”<br />

Zyl said. “My friends would laugh because I can spot a free<br />

pile from a mile away.” With its cedar shingles and red-framed<br />

windows, his first house looks like a simple cottage, but there<br />

are hints of the aesthetic that he would hone for future tiny<br />

house commissions, including a handmade “moon window”<br />

and arched roofline.<br />

That first project still sits on his property, a 34-acre farm<br />

outside Olympia that hosts his workshop. There, he’s built<br />

around thirty tiny homes under the company name Zyl<br />

Vardos. Each design is as unique as its owner, yet still evokes<br />

his distinct style. It starts with a pencil sketch that gets refined<br />

via 3D-modeling software. The software enables him to “snap<br />

the lines of the house off the pencil sketch,” he said. He then<br />

uses a CNC (computer numeric control) machine to create<br />

patterns and cut parts for his imaginative shapes. “Because I<br />

use a CNC and a computer to design, I can make parts of any<br />

shape. They give me this really great creative flexibility,” he said.<br />

He then builds many components by hand, from the doors and<br />

windows to porch lanterns and wood dryer vents.<br />

His work has been called “whimsical” and “like something<br />

from a fairytale.” While those are apt descriptors, his designs<br />

always combine artistic flourish with practicality. Take the<br />

Damselfly, a home built in 2017. For it, he composed a roofline<br />

that appears as two pieces cascading over each other, like a<br />

breaking wave. Thirteen handcrafted windows, including a<br />

curved design over the kitchen sink, let in lots of natural light,<br />

and the pale-colored cabinetry, walls and cork floor don’t<br />

clutter the eye. Features like hidden drawers and cubbies in the<br />

stair tread, and a sliding Shoji screen door at the bathroom,<br />

save space. “My approach is not to lose track of what feels<br />

inspiring and functional,” Zyl said. “I try to always bring those<br />

two together.”<br />

Much of his inspiration comes from his clients,<br />

whom he refers to as “co-authors” in the design/build<br />

process. “It’s always about people,” he said. “I’ve been<br />

pretty fortunate and met a lot of amazing people.”<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 27


Photos: Modern Wagon<br />

Wenatchee: An adventure wagon takes<br />

a Washington couple to their new life<br />

If you visited a national park out west last summer, you might<br />

have seen Duff Bangs and Ashley Rodgers. The couple took an epic<br />

11,000-mile road trip all over the western half of the U.S., hitting<br />

as many national parks as possible over three months. Starting in<br />

Seattle, they drove east to Chicago, then backtracked through the<br />

Grand Tetons and Yellowstone, dropping as far south as Zion and<br />

Joshua Tree. What made them stand out from other cars on the<br />

road? They towed their 28-foot-long, 13,000-pound tiny home,<br />

aptly dubbed the “Adventure Wagon,” the whole way.<br />

The road trip was a reset for the Seattleites. “We were just ready<br />

for a change,” Bangs said. “We were ready for that next step and<br />

we also wanted to do some travelling.” Early in 2017, the couple<br />

sold their city condo, then designed and built the tiny house as a<br />

prototype for their company, Modern Wagon. “As an architect, I<br />

thought it would be a great design project,” Bangs said.<br />

From the start, they weren’t interested in allowing the notion of<br />

tiny to dictate the home’s interior. “It seems like a lot of tiny homes<br />

are traditionally a home shrunk down into a smaller space,” Bangs<br />

said. “So, I feel like all the pieces get shrunk with that as well, such<br />

as the sink and appliances. Something like the bathroom becomes<br />

a very tight space.” Their approach was different. “It was an exercise<br />

in picking out the amenities that were most important to us and<br />

maximizing those spaces,” he said, “then letting the envelope and<br />

form of the tiny home evolve around that.” To that end, the couple<br />

identified priorities, such as a full-sized bathtub, washer/dryer,<br />

plenty of countertops for meal prep, and an open floor so Rodgers<br />

can roll out her yoga mat. Then the different areas were laid out for<br />

ideal weight distribution along the trailer bed.<br />

Final tweaks ensured the home achieves the modern look the<br />

couple prefers and still feels roomy in its 270 square feet. Slanted<br />

FROM TOP The Adventure Wagon has a sleeping loft over the couch. The<br />

270-square-foot Adventure Wagon was home base for an 11,000-mile road trip.<br />

front and rear walls cut a sharp silhouette and also increase<br />

headroom, most importantly where the sleeping loft is stacked<br />

over the couch. “We wanted to be able to sit up [in bed] and not<br />

hit our head on the ceiling,” Bangs said. They lined the exterior<br />

and roof with charcoal standing-seam metal, which provides a<br />

nice contrast to the white aluminum plastic composite siding.<br />

Large windows and an interior palette of bamboo floors and light<br />

birch plywood further visually expand the space.<br />

After logging many miles on the open road, the couple now<br />

calls Wenatchee home, where Rodgers is a social worker and<br />

Bangs leads his architecture firm modFORM. For it, he’s been<br />

tapped to design a few compact Detached Accessory Dwelling<br />

Units (DADUs). “They’re not on wheels but it’s a very similar<br />

design exercise,” he said. “It really allowed me to bend my whole<br />

design genre.”<br />

28 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


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home + design<br />

DIY: Use Wall Stencils for Eye-Catching Accents<br />

WE COULDN’T HELP but admire the striking artwork on the kitchen cabinets in Bangs and Rodgers’ tiny home.<br />

It was painted by a friend of theirs, as a “celebration of our travels and our relationship,” said Bangs, who also<br />

likes how it adds a splash of color to the monochromatic interior. Try wall stencils for an equally artistic—and<br />

affordable—decorative accent, following the simple guidelines below.<br />

1<br />

PICK A PATTERN<br />

Wall stencils are fantastic for their versatility, so<br />

choose any pattern that resonates. Think about<br />

how the scale of the design will appear with<br />

repetition, and whether the size and repetition<br />

works with the rest of the room’s décor.<br />

for the background and the stencil for a more<br />

subtle appearance. Basic wall paint will work for<br />

this project, though it’s also possible to experiment<br />

with different decorative effects, such as using gold<br />

paint, to make the overall design shimmer.<br />

PREPARE THE WALL SURFACE<br />

2<br />

CHOOSE COLORS AND EFFECTS<br />

With stencils, you’re not confined to the colorways<br />

found in wallpaper and can custom match the<br />

stencil paint to the existing color palette in the<br />

room. Try a dramatic contrast and layer a light<br />

pattern over a dark color. Or, choose similar shades<br />

4<br />

Apply the base coat to the wall. Tape off the area<br />

to be stenciled with painter’s tape, protecting<br />

trim, floor, and ceiling. Starting at the ceiling line,<br />

attach the stencil to the surface with painter’s tape,<br />

making sure it’s flat and the design is level.<br />

PAINT AND REPEAT<br />

Paint using a stencil brush or roller, making sure to<br />

monitor the amount of paint applied. Do not allow<br />

paint to get beneath the surface of the stencil,<br />

either from an overloaded brush or raised template,<br />

as that can blur the edges of the final design. Once<br />

the first image is applied, carefully remove the<br />

stencil and position it in the next open spot, using<br />

the registration marks.<br />

30 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


home + design<br />

Out of the Ordinary Home Décor<br />

The Dish Side Table from Grain, a<br />

design studio located on Bainbridge<br />

Island, is made from FSC-certified<br />

American ash in the Pacific Northwest.<br />

Perch your drink, or your bum, on its<br />

scooped tabletop, as it doubles as a<br />

stool in a pinch.<br />

www.graindesign.com<br />

Charlie Schuck<br />

The Epoca Vase looks equally<br />

good whether it’s holding flowers<br />

or displayed on open shelves.<br />

Designed and made by The Granite,<br />

a workshop in Portland, the<br />

unglazed matte white exterior is<br />

hand-painted with an assortment<br />

of colored shapes for a fresh and<br />

modern take on the average vase.<br />

www.workshop-thegranite.com<br />

Kennett Mohrman<br />

Whether it’s a wall hanging or<br />

pillow, Katherine Entis of Soft<br />

Century specializes in textiles<br />

that reveal a unique perspective.<br />

We especially like the knit<br />

paintings, which are “inspired by<br />

landscapes real and imagined,”<br />

and handwoven from top-notch<br />

yarn in her Portland atelier.<br />

www.softcenturydesign.com<br />

Got stacks of magazines on the<br />

floor by the couch? Seattle-based<br />

Fruit Super has created the perfect<br />

solution: the sleek, minimal Print<br />

Rack. The U-shaped body comes in<br />

either white or forest green powdercoated<br />

metal, with a cork base and<br />

solid wood handle. Consider the<br />

clutter conquered.<br />

www.fruitsuper.com<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 31


mind + body<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Philip Milliman<br />

pole vaults during a practice. The Millimans<br />

participate in Senior Games track and field.<br />

Charles Milliman gets ready to attempt a jump.<br />

Keeping It in the Family<br />

Father-son pole-vaulting duo aim to inspire<br />

written by Viki Eierdam<br />

A POLE VAULTER since high school, Philip Milliman heard<br />

about the Washington Senior Games in 2003. He and his father,<br />

Charles, have attended ever since. In 2017, at the ages of 66 and<br />

84 respectively, they took gold in their age categories for pole<br />

vaulting at the National Senior Games in Birmingham, Alabama.<br />

Charles also walked away with a gold in the high jump.<br />

Charles Milliman is pragmatic about it all. A retired minister<br />

who felt a call to ministry when he was working for Boeing in<br />

the 1960s, he competes in six track-and-field categories.<br />

“I just do it within my own ability. I enjoy competition but it’s<br />

mostly to see what I can do,” he said. “Some events I come in<br />

seventh or eighth place. It’s not the winning. It’s the finding out<br />

what I can do.”<br />

He took up endurance running on his 78th birthday, running<br />

three marathons in three days to equal his age and donating<br />

money raised to the Boys & Girls Clubs of the Olympic<br />

Peninsula. He repeated the endurance goal for his 80th birthday<br />

and his 85th, donating money to charities each time.<br />

The senior Milliman has been training for marathons since<br />

he was 39. He found he could lose his mind in running, and<br />

its ability to drastically reduce stress levels has kept him a fan<br />

ever since. With sixty-seven marathons under his belt, he’s still<br />

finishing in under seven hours.<br />

“The main benefit (of staying active) is the wholeness of life,”<br />

he said. “You can do more at an older age when you’re physically,<br />

spiritually and mentally fit.”<br />

As a volunteer pole vaulting coach at Sequim High School, Philip<br />

Milliman’s enthusiasm for physical activity is equally inspiring.<br />

“In some ways, Dad and I aren’t normal, but we think of<br />

ourselves that way,” he said. “We strongly believe in bringing<br />

others along for the ride, being excited about it, moving until<br />

you drop. It’s never about beating someone else. It’s about<br />

beating yourself or being the best you can.”<br />

Philip Milliman remembers that after church on Sundays<br />

when he was growing up, his folks would suggest a hike in the<br />

mountains instead of the less active pursuits his friends were<br />

engaged in. Today they invite others to hike portions of the 130-<br />

mile Olympic Discovery Trail as they complete it in segments.<br />

It seems to be a Milliman motto: “I’m never comfortable just<br />

sitting down,” Philip said.<br />

32 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


mind + body<br />

“In some ways, Dad and I<br />

aren’t normal, but we think<br />

of ourselves that way. We<br />

strongly believe in bringing<br />

others along for the ride,<br />

being excited about it, moving<br />

until you drop. It’s never<br />

about beating someone else.<br />

It’s about beating yourself or<br />

being the best you can.”<br />

— Philip Milliman<br />

Photos: George Stenberg<br />

Charles Milliman<br />

Pole vault, 100-meter<br />

dash, 800-meter dash,<br />

high jump, long jump,<br />

standing long jump<br />

Age: 85<br />

Born: Auburn, Indiana<br />

Residence: Sequim,<br />

Washington<br />

WORKOUT<br />

“I have no strict regimen.<br />

If I register for a race, I put<br />

in more time for training.<br />

I started running and got<br />

in the habit of it and kept<br />

it up. I run about every<br />

day except Sundays. As<br />

a retired minister, I don’t<br />

run on Sundays. I’m aware<br />

of alternate distance and<br />

intensity workouts but I just<br />

go out and run most of<br />

the time.”<br />

NUTRITION<br />

“If I’m training for ultradistance,<br />

like my birthday<br />

when I ran 85 miles last<br />

<strong>November</strong>, I eat a boiled<br />

potato every hour. But any<br />

special stuff? No, I just eat<br />

regular foods. My wife’s a<br />

good cook. We don’t eat<br />

veggies everyday or fish<br />

once a week but we eat good<br />

meals. Not a lot of desserts.<br />

We couldn’t afford them<br />

when we were younger so I<br />

never got in the habit.”<br />

INSPIRATIONS<br />

“I have six points I share<br />

with people of why I’m still<br />

running. 1) I believe in God.<br />

2) I have a good family<br />

support. We all do stuff<br />

together. 3) I don’t drink<br />

alcohol or smoke. 4) I<br />

exercise. 5) I have a good<br />

doctor. 6) I drink a lot<br />

of water.”<br />

Philip Milliman<br />

Pole vault and high jump<br />

Age: 67<br />

Born: Pasco, Washington<br />

Residence: Sequim,<br />

Washington<br />

WORKOUT<br />

Philip uses pickleball when<br />

he can for conditioning. He<br />

attends a Warrior Fitness<br />

program twice weekly at a<br />

local gym. Custom training<br />

includes several sets of<br />

upper body drills and swing<br />

drills such as leg swings,<br />

overhead push, high bar<br />

inversion drills, left leg<br />

pendulum drill and right<br />

knee drive drill. He also<br />

trains with the high school<br />

track kids he helps coach at<br />

Sequim High School.<br />

NUTRITION<br />

Like father, like son. Philip<br />

thanks his wife, Rosaura,<br />

for his eating plan. Organics<br />

make up 80 to 90 percent<br />

of their diet, such as<br />

chicken, fish, fruits and<br />

vegetables. He’s an avid tea<br />

drinker and supplements<br />

with smoothies to ensure<br />

optimal produce intake.<br />

INSPIRATIONS<br />

“Our family’s always been<br />

pretty active physically. My<br />

dad and mom are great<br />

inspirations.” Philip stays<br />

engaged with backpacking,<br />

skiing, running and<br />

organizing church activities<br />

like bicycling. His sister<br />

and brother-in-law are also<br />

Spartan racers. “I believe by<br />

keeping moving, the blood<br />

flows to the places that<br />

need healing.”<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 33


artist in residence<br />

Foraging For Jewelry<br />

Collecting sea glass goes from a hobby to a<br />

full-time business at West Coast Sea Glass<br />

written by Lauren Kramer<br />

THERE’S SOMETHING DELICIOUSLY peaceful about<br />

wandering along a lonely beach, feeling the wind<br />

in your hair and the sand beneath your feet. One<br />

Olympic Peninsula entrepreneur took her love of beach<br />

wandering and turned it into a successful career.<br />

Mary Beth Beuke, 55, had been searching the sand<br />

for sea glass since the age of 6, collecting fragments<br />

of glass whose sharp edges had been caressed and<br />

softened by water and time. “I just love being by the<br />

shore and walking, so my sea glass collection naturally<br />

fell into place,” she said. Another great love was crafting<br />

and making jewelry. One day she included a piece of<br />

sea glass in her jewelry and the result caught many<br />

admiring glances. Orders from her friends for more<br />

pieces of jewelry came flooding in, and before she knew<br />

it, Beuke was at the helm of West Coast Sea Glass, now<br />

a successful company selling sea glass jewelry<br />

online and in galleries all over the United States,<br />

Canada, Britain, the Bahamas and Australia.<br />

34 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


artist in residence<br />

After two decades of research, Beuke is an expert in identifying<br />

the glass in her collection. “History is really important in a sea<br />

glass collection, and that’s defined by color,” she said. “Glass was<br />

manufactured in many different colors 100 years ago than it is<br />

today, and back then the most common bottle colors in the U.S.<br />

were clear, brown and forest or emerald green. I consider these<br />

rarer colors to be of more value, and in my jewelry I only use the<br />

best pieces.”<br />

There’s lots of detective work in sea-glass collecting and Beuke<br />

loves the thrill of finding something rare and identifying where it<br />

came from. One time she found a piece of glass belonging to an<br />

early-1900s walking cane. “For me, this becomes a process of glass<br />

archaeology and historical investigating,” she said. “It’s not just a<br />

broken piece of a 1970s bottle.”<br />

Beuke has an office in the Olympic Peninsula and a studio in<br />

Tacoma. Together with Teresa Crecelius and Lindsay Furber—a<br />

longtime friend with whom she co-founded West Coast Sea<br />

Glass—she makes rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks<br />

and a few pieces of home décor.<br />

Each piece of jewelry created by the three women is accompanied<br />

by a card indicating when and where the sea glass was found, and<br />

any information about its historical relevance. Her customers<br />

love knowing pertinent information about their sea glass jewelry,<br />

and she often fields requests for a piece of jewelry made with sea<br />

glass from a particular beach or coastline. Sometimes customers<br />

will find sea glass on a beach during a vacation and mail it to her,<br />

requesting she use it in a piece of unique jewelry as a memento of<br />

their trip.<br />

Over the course of her life, Beuke has amassed one of the world’s<br />

largest and rarest collections of sea glass fragments. She displays<br />

them during the lectures she delivers at museums and libraries,<br />

educating people about their origins. She keeps her jewelry<br />

business collection separate from her personal collection.<br />

These days, however, the more historical pieces of sea glass are<br />

becoming increasingly hard to find. “It’s been four years since I<br />

found anything of historical significance in the U.S.,” she said with<br />

a tinge of regret in her voice. “The really rare pieces are either<br />

buried at sea or they’ve been found, and some of the best places<br />

on the planet that used to have rare sea glass forty years ago just<br />

don’t have it anymore.”<br />

In terms of sea glass jewelry, that means making twelve pairs<br />

of blue earrings, requiring twenty-four pieces of sea glass, can<br />

FROM TOP Mary Beth Beuke<br />

heads West Coast Sea Glass.<br />

She creates sea glass rings,<br />

as well as other jewelry with<br />

the glass.<br />

be next to impossible. “We have to rely on the pieces we have<br />

here, rather than foraging for new pieces,” she explained. “And<br />

some colors we simply can no longer provide, like aqua blue,<br />

which is much rarer than a green piece of sea glass.”<br />

On a hot day in July, Beuke headed to her silver studio to<br />

complete a five-piece cobalt blue bracelet made of sea glass<br />

from old medicine bottles. A silversmith and photographer by<br />

trade, she has effortlessly merged her talents, creating stunning<br />

pieces of art in both her jewelry and photography. Home is a<br />

twenty-second walk from the beach, so she gets to indulge her<br />

love of beach wandering almost daily.<br />

“It’s been such a joy connecting with people over sea glass,”<br />

she said. “I truly have the best job in the world.”<br />

“History is really important in a sea glass collection, and that’s<br />

defined by color. Glass was manufactured in many different colors<br />

100 years ago than it is today. … I consider these rarer colors to<br />

be of more value, and in my jewelry I only use the best pieces.”<br />

— Mary Beth Beuke, of West Coast Sea Glass<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 35


STARTUP 38<br />

WHAT’S GOING UP 40<br />

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 41<br />

MY WORKSPACE 42<br />

GAME CHANGER 44<br />

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startup<br />

Rover connects pet owners with<br />

pet sitters and dog-walkers.<br />

Friends for Fido<br />

How Rover went from an idea to a coast-to-coast<br />

platform connecting pets and caregivers<br />

written by Chad Walsh<br />

38 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


startup<br />

THE MOTHER-OF-INVENTION story is such a common<br />

one for tech startups that it’s almost become a trope. Take<br />

Reed Hastings, who got fed up with late fees from video<br />

rental stores and eventually founded Netflix, the order-bymail<br />

subscription DVD rental company turned streamingcontent<br />

juggernaut. Founder sees annoying problem.<br />

Founder builds better mousetrap to eliminate said problem.<br />

Founder’s nascent company changes the everyday lives of<br />

millions of Americans.<br />

That’s how Rover, the Seattle-based website that facilitates<br />

relationships between pet owners and pet sitters and walkers,<br />

was born. In the mid-aughts, Greg Gottesman had to leave<br />

Seattle and needed someone to look after his yellow lab, Ruby<br />

Tuesday. Like millions of Americans, he turned to his local<br />

kennel to look after his beloved pet and went on his way.<br />

But things were amiss when he returned home. When<br />

he picked up Ruby Tuesday, the dog was covered in<br />

scratches. Worse, the pet had come down with a bad case<br />

of kennel cough. Needless to say, the dog was in much<br />

worse shape when Gottesman picked her up than when<br />

he dropped her off.<br />

Gottesman’s lightbulb moment came when his then-9-<br />

year-old daughter chimed in, saying that if someone offered<br />

to pay her, she’d gladly look after pets.<br />

The story goes that Gottesman ran with his daughter’s<br />

idea, unrolling Rover, the dog-sitting (and cat-sitting) and<br />

dog-walking company, at Seattle’s Startup Week in 2011,<br />

where Gottesman and his business partners took home the<br />

event’s top prize.<br />

Seven years later, Rover now contracts with 200,000 pet<br />

sitters and walkers in 14,000 cities across the United States,<br />

from tiny dog-happy towns like Sun Valley, Idaho, to large<br />

sprawling metropolises like Seattle and San Francisco.<br />

“Rover’s mission is to bring the joy of pet companionship<br />

to every responsible person in the U.S.—whether they work<br />

long hours, travel frequently or don’t have a local network of<br />

family and friends to help out with care,” said Pete Bahrenburg,<br />

a spokesman for Rover.<br />

Here’s how it works. Rover is in many ways a community<br />

message board, where pet owners in need of assistance can<br />

connect to those sitters and walkers who have downtime and<br />

are looking for extra cash.<br />

Think of it like a cross between Uber and Tinder. You<br />

search for pet sitters in your area and swipe right until you<br />

find one you trust. Once you’ve settled on one, you can order<br />

a bespoke roster of services that cater to your pet’s needs.<br />

Bahrenburg said prospective pet owners should place a<br />

great deal of faith in how Rover operates. Indeed, all the petsitters<br />

who apply to house sit or walk dogs are run through a<br />

rigorous screening process prior to coming into contact with<br />

anyone’s pet.<br />

“We have very high standards for our sitters and dog<br />

walkers,” Bahrenburg said, noting the company accepts fewer<br />

“Rover’s mission is<br />

to bring the joy of pet<br />

companionship to every<br />

responsible person in<br />

the U.S.—whether they<br />

work long hours, travel<br />

frequently or don’t have<br />

a local network of family<br />

and friends to help out<br />

with care.”<br />

— Pete Bahrenburg,<br />

Rover spokesman<br />

than 20 percent of those who apply to contract with them. “Our<br />

team reviews each sitter and dog-walker profile submission<br />

with a focus on dog safety. Profiles detail a prospective sitter<br />

or dog walker’s experience and background, as well as photos,<br />

references and third-party verifications.” Each new sitter and<br />

dog walker also completes a full background check processed<br />

by Checkr, itself another tech startup.<br />

While companies like ride-share programs create an<br />

environment where prices can rapidly rise during peak times,<br />

Rover allows pet owners and pet sitters the ability to haggle<br />

over the costs of services. “Pet sitters and dog walkers can<br />

set and adjust the services and rates they offer at any time by<br />

editing their user profile at rover.com or on the Rover app,”<br />

Bahrenburg said. “Sitters can always edit their rate as needed<br />

during conversations with pet parents, allowing them to offer<br />

custom rates for the services provided. For instance, sitters<br />

and walkers may offer a discount for multiple-pet households<br />

or raise rates for dog boarding, house sitting and drop-in<br />

visits throughout the holiday season.”<br />

And Rover’s services don’t only apply just to dogs.<br />

“While we are ‘The Dog People,’ Rover isn’t just for dogs,”<br />

Bahrenburg said. “Cat drop-ins are one of the fastest growing<br />

segments of our business. Sitters on Rover have looked after<br />

cats, birds, horses, pigs and even lizards and fish.”<br />

So go ahead and plan that next family trip with the<br />

knowledge that you don’t need to leave your dog at the kennel<br />

for two to three weeks at a time. Indeed, you can have a oneperson<br />

kennel come to you.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 39


what’s going up?<br />

Grab a Glass<br />

New wine-tasting options around the state<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

Barrels Wine Bar, on Mercer Island,<br />

offers forty wines by the glass.<br />

DELILLE CELLARS<br />

& SPARKMAN CELLARS<br />

DeLille Cellars and Sparkman<br />

Cellars announced a plan in late<br />

May to relocate their tasting rooms,<br />

production facilities and event<br />

spaces to a former Redhook Brewery<br />

site in Woodinville. According to The<br />

Seattle Times, the 20-acre site, across<br />

Northeast 145th Street from Chateau<br />

Ste. Michelle, will also house the<br />

Teatro ZinZanni, a dinner show. A<br />

restaurant is also expected to open<br />

on the site.<br />

DOUBLE CANYON<br />

WINERY<br />

In West Richland, Double Canyon<br />

Winery in July opened a tasting<br />

room where visitors can try all its<br />

incredible cabernet sauvignon. The<br />

tasting room, a modern space with<br />

a tasting bar and tables, offers views<br />

of the barrel room and production<br />

area, as well as a patio with a fire pit<br />

and more views. The tasting room<br />

joins the winery, which opened its<br />

new facility in 2017, and a Seattle<br />

tasting room.<br />

BARRELS WINE BAR<br />

In June, Mercer Island welcomed<br />

Barrels Wine Bar, a tasting room<br />

and wine shop. The shop offers forty<br />

different wines by the glass or bottles<br />

for purchase, as well as snacks. For<br />

the non-wine fans, there are also four<br />

diverse beers on tap, and can and<br />

bottle options as well. The shop offers<br />

daily wine tasting and opportunities<br />

to meet winemakers.<br />

40 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


what i’m working on<br />

What I’m Working On<br />

The Doctor<br />

is In (Spokane)<br />

Dr. Darryl Potyk talks about<br />

the state of medical education<br />

interview by Kevin Max<br />

IN 2016, the University of Washington<br />

reaffirmed its commitment to medical<br />

teaching in Eastern Washington. In<br />

connection with the private Gonzaga<br />

University in Spokane, the UW School of<br />

Medicine-Gonzaga University Regional<br />

Health Partnership program enrolled sixty<br />

students in its first year. We checked in<br />

with Dr. Darryl Potyk, the program’s chief<br />

of medical education, to talk about growth<br />

and the first two years.<br />

Darryl Potyk is the chief of medical education at the UW School of Medicine-Gonzaga University<br />

Regional Health Partnership.<br />

You started your role as the<br />

associate dean for the school a year<br />

ago. After your first year in the new<br />

med school, how would you rate the<br />

school’s success?<br />

I think we’ve been very successful.<br />

This is the first public-private<br />

partnership that the UW has engaged<br />

in. We came together for the greater<br />

good of the Spokane community. We<br />

have 120 students on this campus<br />

now, and we’re focused on getting<br />

them the best medical education.<br />

What is the competitive angle of<br />

this campus and this program?<br />

We’re part of the bigger UW School<br />

of Medicine. We don’t really think of<br />

ourselves as competing with other<br />

campuses. We work collaboratively<br />

with UW. We’ve been here in Eastern<br />

Washington educating students in<br />

medicine for twenty-five years. One<br />

thing we’ve been able to do is reduce<br />

the [core] Foundations classes from<br />

two years to eighteen months. We<br />

compressed that time and made<br />

it more clinically relevant to give<br />

students more time to focus on what<br />

area they want to spend their careers<br />

on. We have a couple of different<br />

rural clinical programs that have<br />

garnered national awards. Integrating<br />

humanities education with medical<br />

education has been another area<br />

of strength for us. Sometimes in<br />

this field, you can get wound up<br />

in data, but at the end of the day,<br />

doctoring comes down to people and<br />

relationships.<br />

What has the school’s presence<br />

meant for the Spokane community?<br />

The community is behind medical<br />

education as a whole. In previous<br />

times, we were in a partnership<br />

with Washington State University<br />

and parted ways. There was some<br />

resentment around that. There are<br />

some people who still view this as<br />

more of a football game, yet it’s more<br />

important than the Apple Cup [the<br />

annual football meeting of rivals WSU<br />

and UW]. We’re at a tipping point<br />

where we’re doing good things with<br />

research and clinical medicine, and I<br />

think the community supports that.<br />

The program accepts sixty students<br />

each year. What do you see for the<br />

future growth of this program?<br />

Expansion is on the horizon and<br />

important with the workforce needs<br />

in the Spokane area. At the same time,<br />

we’re scaling back the rate at which we<br />

expand. First, we need to figure out how<br />

to provide quality clinical experiences<br />

and clinical teaching resources before<br />

we can grow. We need to do that in a<br />

way that quality precedes expansion.<br />

What do you want prospective<br />

students to know about this program?<br />

I want people to know that we have<br />

been here for twenty-five years and<br />

are going to continue to be here. The<br />

UW School of Medicine is a costeffective<br />

model, and we are able to<br />

offer top-of-the-nation education at a<br />

great value.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 41


my workspace<br />

My Workspace<br />

Opening Eyes<br />

UnCruise creates experiences on small cruise ships<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

Jocelyn Pride<br />

Sue Rooney says she has the best job in<br />

the world. The director of guest adventures<br />

for UnCruise, a small ship adventure cruise<br />

company, just might be right. She designs<br />

the cruise experiences, whether it’s a wine<br />

and gastronomy cruise along the Columbia<br />

and Snake rivers or an experience in the<br />

Galapagos Islands. “I take a vision and<br />

then I put the puzzle pieces of that vision<br />

together,” she said.<br />

Although cruises to Alaska are UnCruise’s bread and butter,<br />

ships can sail year round. So the company offers other<br />

cruises to places around the world—Mexico, Hawaii, Costa<br />

Rica, Panama, and right here in the Pacific Northwest. “We<br />

have people go on those Alaska cruises with us and then<br />

they’ll go to a place they wouldn’t go if they didn’t trust<br />

us,” Rooney said.<br />

42 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


my workspace<br />

Rick Duval<br />

In 2019, UnCruise will morph its fall<br />

wine cruise into a wine and culinary<br />

experience. The cruise will still include<br />

winery partners, but now will also offer<br />

spirits, beer, fruit, hazelnuts, coffee …<br />

all the things that make Washington<br />

(and its neighbor to the south) great.<br />

UnCruise Adventures<br />

Rooney’s favorite cruise the company<br />

offers is one that runs along the Columbia-<br />

Snake River system. “Sometimes that’s a<br />

complete shock to other people because<br />

it doesn’t have whales or glaciers,” she<br />

said. “But it does have magic and the<br />

unknown. People think they know what’s<br />

out there and we get to blow their minds.<br />

… We get to mix food and culinary and<br />

wine and history, which is riveting. It’s an<br />

adventure of the mind and the palate.”<br />

“I live to connect,” Rooney said. “I live<br />

to watch people’s eyes fly open. It’s the<br />

perfect job for me.”<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 43


game changer<br />

Water From Wine<br />

A Washington farmer uses grapes for the greater good<br />

written by Corinne Whiting<br />

SOMETIMES DOING GOOD simply takes thinking outside of the box—or<br />

barrel, as the case may be. In 2012, Pat Tucker—a Paterson, Washington,<br />

farmer for more than forty-three years—came up with a brilliant plan. He<br />

decided to use the 6-acre vineyard on his family farm to benefit nonprofits,<br />

specifically those already invested in international clean-water projects.<br />

Situated in the Horse Heaven Hills region, just north of the Columbia River<br />

near the Oregon border, Water from Wine enjoys its placement between<br />

the esteemed Columbia Crest Winery and Chateau Ste. Michelle.<br />

The organization focuses on water<br />

because, according to the World<br />

Health Organization, 2.5 billion<br />

people worldwide lack access to clean<br />

water and a simple toilet. Other stats<br />

indicate that 5 million people, mostly<br />

children under the age of 5, die from<br />

water-related illnesses each year, and<br />

collecting water takes up as many as 200<br />

million hours a day, mainly by women<br />

and children. Water from Wine partners<br />

with organizations already working to<br />

end the global water crisis, like Seattlebased<br />

Water1st International.<br />

For the initiative’s name, Tucker<br />

sought inspiration from The Bible,<br />

specifically John 2:1-11, in which Jesus<br />

first turned water into wine. Tucker<br />

decided to symbolically flip that phrase<br />

to describe his own team’s mission. In<br />

the fall of 2014, Tucker’s family, friends<br />

and community members gathered to<br />

harvest the first grapes. He reached out<br />

to longtime friend Charlie Hoppes of<br />

Fidelitas Winery to make the wine, and<br />

that first harvest yielded an impressive<br />

984 cases of cabernet sauvignon.<br />

Tucker, who was impressed by<br />

Water1st’s work, pledged 100 percent<br />

of the proceeds from each bottle sold.<br />

Through this partnership, each case<br />

provides one family in Mozambique,<br />

Ethiopia, Bangladesh and Honduras<br />

with clean water and a toilet for life.<br />

To date, supporters have bought 3,900<br />

bottles of cabernet sauvignon, which<br />

has raised $117,000 and translates to<br />

1,300 people now enjoying the basic<br />

human right of water.<br />

So far, Water from Wine has released<br />

five varietals, including the most<br />

recent—a 2015 Red Mountain cabernet<br />

sauvignon. Another impressive stat—<br />

worldwide, 35 to 50 percent of water<br />

projects tend to fail within the first five<br />

years. However, not a single Water1st<br />

project has fallen through, thanks to<br />

meticulous monitoring and models<br />

built to last.<br />

Tucker said marketing has proven<br />

the biggest hurdle. “We want to get the<br />

word out there to increase sales, thereby<br />

increasing the amount of money we<br />

donate to clean water projects, but it’s<br />

been a challenge,” he said. However,<br />

staunch support from the community—<br />

and uplifting results—provide more<br />

than enough inspiration to carry on with<br />

the cause. For the last couple of harvests,<br />

the organization has welcomed help<br />

from between 120 and 140 volunteers.<br />

“The most fulfilling part of this<br />

endeavor has been donating the proceeds<br />

from our wine sales to organizations like<br />

Water1st,” Tucker said. “Knowing that<br />

all the hard work put into harvesting<br />

the grapes, getting the wine in the bottle<br />

and selling the wine means that more<br />

people around the world have access to<br />

clean water.”<br />

44 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


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TRIPPING OVER<br />

WASHINGTON<br />

WINE COUNTRY<br />

THE BEST WINE-TASTING EXPERIENCES AROUND THE STATE<br />

written by Viki Eierdam<br />

NEARLY 950 WINERIES call the Evergreen State<br />

home. From the Puget Sound to Lake Chelan to<br />

Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley and the Columbia<br />

Gorge, Washington is prime for a circular road trip<br />

to fourteen American Viticultural Areas. From<br />

maritime to mountains and desert to Missoula<br />

Floods remnants, there is adventure, vistas, history<br />

and romance to be uncorked in nearly every barrel<br />

and bottle. Follow along as we share some mustsee<br />

wine spots and experiences that elevate wine<br />

tasting to wine travel.


San Juan Cruises/Eric Creitz<br />

Charity Burggraaf<br />

Richard Duval<br />

2<br />

DUE<br />

NORTH<br />

At just 9 square miles in size,<br />

Lummi Island rewards visitors with<br />

one of the finest dining experiences<br />

in the Northwest at The Willows<br />

Inn. A scant five-minute ferry ride<br />

from Bellingham, its forage-driven<br />

menu—headed by acclaimed chef<br />

Blaine Wetzel—and mesmerizing<br />

water views are the perfect<br />

accompaniment to a curated wine list<br />

with a strong Washington selection.<br />

Make it an overnight at this circa<br />

1912 inn so you can partake in a<br />

pampering breakfast.<br />

If you find yourself in Bellingham<br />

in the summer, be sure to book<br />

an unWINEd on the Bay winetasting<br />

cruise. Since 2012, San Juan<br />

Cruises has offered this scenic<br />

and educational experience that<br />

showcases a different wine region<br />

from around the world every<br />

Thursday evening. Photos ops of<br />

Bellingham Bay are a bonus.<br />

1<br />

ISLAND TIME<br />

Sarah Tanksley<br />

Ease into island time on the short ferry ride from West Seattle to Vashon<br />

Island. Vashon Winery has been crafting boutique wines for more than<br />

thirty years and it’s one of the few places in the Northwest producing wine from<br />

Chasselas Doré, a white grape that hails from Switzerland mountain ranges. If Vashon<br />

is boutique, Maury Island Winery is nano, but, as they say, great things come in small<br />

packages. These estate-grown wines emphasize sense of place with Puget Sound pinot<br />

noir and pinot gris.<br />

To round out the three-winery Vashon Island tour, check out Palouse Winery. Its<br />

2017 “Pearlescent” cabernet franc rosé is a quintessential island wine, pairing seamlessly<br />

with seafood and light salads.<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP San Juan Cruises offers wine cruises every Thursday in the summer. The Willows Inn<br />

foraged cuisine includes poached rhubarb with lemon thyme. Bordeaux Cellars has mountain views. Maury Island<br />

Winery is a tiny operation. Palouse Winery is the perfect island spot.<br />

Fred Broomhall<br />

3<br />

OVER THE<br />

CASCADES<br />

The Bavarian town of Leavenworth<br />

supports a healthy selection of<br />

tasting rooms along its main drag,<br />

but a short drive out of town<br />

affords its own surprises. Located<br />

completely off the power grid,<br />

Boudreaux Cellars highlights<br />

amazing mountain views deep in the<br />

idyllic Cascade Mountains, and the<br />

200-barrel cellar takes advantage of<br />

consistent temperatures found only<br />

underground. Icicle Ridge Winery has<br />

two tasting rooms in town but, for<br />

guided wine hikes that end with lunch<br />

and a wine pairing, venture out to its<br />

5,000 square-foot log home winery.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 47


4<br />

WHIRLYBIRDS<br />

& BUBBLES<br />

Established as an AVA in 2009,<br />

Lake Chelan already counts more<br />

than thirty wineries, the majority of<br />

which surround its picturesque lake.<br />

The perfect way to take in all this<br />

lush scenery is a Lake Chelan Wine<br />

Valley tour aboard Lake Chelan<br />

Helicopters. Six separate wineries<br />

can accommodate a helicopter<br />

landing, including Rio Vista Wines,<br />

which hosts a summer concert<br />

series, and Tsillan Cellars, an Italianthemed<br />

winery complete with 80,000<br />

pounds of Italian marble stone and<br />

on-site Sorrento’s Ristorante.<br />

Focused on sparkling wine,<br />

KARMA Vineyards and its<br />

underground wine cave is a notto-be-missed<br />

stop while in Chelan.<br />

With its estate grapes, KARMA<br />

invests in the traditional French<br />

method of creating sparkling wine<br />

and fashions a brut, brut de brut and<br />

a rosé style.<br />

5<br />

COLUMBIA<br />

VALLEY<br />

Stone, rock, exposed beams, slate<br />

and hardwood are the materials<br />

used to create a menu of overnight<br />

accommodations at Cave B Inn &<br />

Spa Resort. A working farm that<br />

affords panoramic Columbia River<br />

views from its basalt cliff location,<br />

Cave B Estate Winery is one of the<br />

many on-site treats here. Drawing<br />

from more than 100 acres under<br />

vine, Cave B is part of the Ancient<br />

Lakes AVA. In the main lodge,<br />

Tendrils Restaurant thoughtfully<br />

pairs estate wines with locally<br />

focused cuisine.<br />

Tsillan Cellars<br />

6<br />

LEADING THE PACK<br />

Better known as the hops-growing capital of the U.S., Yakima Valley<br />

was the first AVA in Washington. Unique wine experiences and some<br />

of the highest-rated wines in Washington’s winemaking history can be found here.<br />

Care to follow up a little rock climbing with wine tasting? Wilridge Vineyard<br />

is a recreational vineyard where guests can picnic, enjoy scheduled yoga, and<br />

also rappel from Andesite rock cliffs and hike, bike or horseback ride Cowiche<br />

Canyon’s Upland Trails.<br />

Continuing the horse theme, Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast & Barn in Zillah offers<br />

hay wagon winery tours. By night, Cherry Wood is a glamper’s dream with decked<br />

out teepees and open-air soaking tubs, but a day of traipsing around four wineries<br />

in their “cowboy limo” is the plush life.<br />

If you’re looking for views for days, Col Solare is the spot. Built on Red<br />

Mountain, guests relish views of the Yakima River, Col Solare’s fan-shaped<br />

vineyard and Mount Adams and the Horse Heaven Hills in the distance. Symmetry<br />

and beauty are found in the wines and mimicked in the architectural details.<br />

In Prosser, Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center aims to take visitors on a<br />

trip through Yakima Valley wine country in one stop. Highlights include views<br />

of the Yakima River, a different Washington AVA featured on the center’s tasting<br />

room lineup each month, a wine-driven small bites menu and a host of regularly<br />

scheduled tasting events.<br />

48 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


7<br />

Jumping Rocks Inc.<br />

GO EAST, YOUNG MAN<br />

Walla Walla’s Abeja Winery is situated on 38 acres of gardens, lawns,<br />

creeks and vineyards. Its inn is anchored by a stunning, turn-of-thecentury<br />

farmstead where original outbuildings have been restored to luxurious guest<br />

accommodations. This appointment-only winery is steeped in dramatic history and<br />

capped off by some of the most premium wines in Washington.<br />

Long Shadows Vintners and Foundry Vineyards have two things in common—<br />

beautifully crafted wines and thought-provoking art. The modern tasting room of<br />

Long Shadows displays Chihuly glass sculptures, and wines are a collective of five<br />

internationally acclaimed vintners. Choose from a 60-minute Portfolio Tasting or<br />

90-minute Inside Story Tasting, both by reservation only. Also an art gallery, Foundry<br />

Vineyards holds tastings in a sleek space surrounded by rotating fine art pieces.<br />

Visitors are encouraged to bring picnics and unwind in the outdoor sculpture garden.<br />

Set in a circa 1915 schoolhouse, L’Ecole No 41 is simultaneously a unique tasting<br />

experience and story. For a deep dive, sign up for a Reserve Tour and Tasting, where<br />

guests are immersed in the history of L’Ecole through words, a walking tour and<br />

library wines.<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Lake Chelan Helicopters offers wine tours. Tsillan Cellars is an Italian-themed winery<br />

near Lake Chelan. Col Solare’s vineyard is in the shape of a fan. Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center educates the<br />

wine-loving public. Abeja Winery has guest accommodations.<br />

Pixelsoft Films Ste. Michelle Wine Estates<br />

SO MANY WINERIES,<br />

SO LITTLE TIME<br />

Here are more recommendations<br />

for top stops along the diverse<br />

landscape of Washington wine<br />

country.<br />

YAKIMA VALLEY<br />

Hedges Family Estate: A Frenchstyle<br />

chateau in the middle of<br />

Red Mountain with a must-see<br />

champagne room.<br />

Prosser’s Vintner’s Village:<br />

Nine wineries, one tasting room<br />

and one wine bar comprise this<br />

walkable wine-driven development.<br />

Yakima Valley Visitor<br />

Information Center: Visitors can<br />

purchase Yakima Valley wine, beer<br />

and cider and sample a rotating<br />

array of local wines.<br />

COLUMBIA VALLEY<br />

Columbia Gardens Wine<br />

Village: At the confluence of the<br />

Columbia, Snake and Yakima rivers<br />

sits the Port of Kennewick and<br />

its newest venture. Bartholomew<br />

Winery and Palencia Wine<br />

Company are the first tenants in<br />

this boutique winery concept.<br />

WALLA WALLA<br />

Sleight of Hand Cellars: A fun,<br />

music-centric tasting room with<br />

vinyl spinning in the background.<br />

Pepper Bridge Winery: A food &<br />

wine pairing class, complete with a<br />

chef-led tasting of small dishes.<br />

Northstar Winery: Offering a<br />

blending experience capped off<br />

with a custom label.<br />

WOODINVILLE<br />

Novelty Hill-Januik: An ultramodern<br />

winery with floor-toceiling<br />

windows that overlook<br />

barrel and fermentation tanks.<br />

Chateau Ste Michelle: The newly<br />

remodeled visitor’s center offers<br />

multiple guest experiences and is<br />

ideal for picnics on the lawn.<br />

Two Vintners: This industrial<br />

winery is a hit with parents<br />

because of the playroom behind<br />

the tasting room’s curtain.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49


8<br />

WESTWARD<br />

HO!<br />

If tiny-house living is calling your<br />

name, Alexandria Nicole Cellars at<br />

Destiny Ridge has four where guests<br />

can overnight. For example, Jet Black<br />

is a blend of New York art gallery and<br />

Northwest upcycling complete with<br />

a repurposed fermentation tank that<br />

dispenses your choice of red or white<br />

wine from convenient kegs, a roll-up<br />

garage door that adds outdoor square<br />

footage and a bedroom oriented<br />

to greet the day with vineyard and<br />

Columbia Gorge views.<br />

Less than two hours west from<br />

Paterson is Underwood Mountain,<br />

where Hawkins Cellars takes full<br />

advantage of its hard-fought location<br />

with more dazzling Gorge views<br />

and Mount Hood in the distance.<br />

Croquet and bocce ball encourage<br />

guests to linger and hear the story<br />

of how winemaker Thane Hawkins<br />

made the move from animation to<br />

fermentation.<br />

Skamania Lodge is celebrating its<br />

twenty-fifth anniversary throughout<br />

<strong>2018</strong>. An emphasis on Columbia<br />

Gorge wines is the sip du jour as<br />

guests look over the breathtaking<br />

National Scenic Area. Skamania also<br />

offers a selection of wines in the onsite<br />

Waterleaf Spa and wine-infused<br />

lotions, scrubs and massage oils for<br />

spa treatments.<br />

Emily Maze Patrik Argast<br />

9<br />

SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON<br />

Take in views of the long-awaited Grant Street Pier, casting its nautical<br />

silhouette 90 feet out over the Columbia River, while swirling a glass of<br />

Alexandria Nicole Bohemian Blend or Terra Blanca cabernet sauvignon at WildFin<br />

American Grill. Located in the new Waterfront Vancouver development, this locavorecentric<br />

eatery boasts a “barrel to bar” program featuring Washington wines on tap.<br />

Twenty minutes up I-5, it’s time for a sweet treat. Gary Gougér, winemaker at Gougér<br />

Cellars, has figured out how to remove the alcohol from his wines and, with no added<br />

sugar, crafts such tempting flavors of wine ice cream as zinfandel chocolate chip,<br />

muscat with lemon lime zest, muscat with toasted coconut and muscat with berries.<br />

A collaboration between Chelatchie Prairie Railroad and Moulton Falls Winery,<br />

the Wine Train runs down the tracks from May through <strong>November</strong>. Purchase train<br />

tickets and wine at Moulton Falls, board the 1929 steam locomotive and enjoy a 7-mile<br />

excursion as it passes through a 330-foot solid rock tunnel.<br />

AT LEFT Gougér Cellars sells wine and wine ice cream. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Hawkins Cellars has Mount Hood<br />

views. The Bramble Bump at JM Cellars has an arboretum, as well as a wine library and barrel room. Charles Smith Wines<br />

Jet City is in a defunct Dr. Pepper bottling plant. Skamania Lodge celebrates its anniversary with Columbia Gorge wines.<br />

50 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


KEEP IT MOVIN’<br />

In recent years, wine country has<br />

done a great job promoting the<br />

idea of “Wine and…” Check out<br />

this abbreviated list designed to<br />

keep you imbibing and exploring.<br />

Chelan Electric Bikes Winery<br />

Tour: Visit three wineries in four<br />

hours aboard hill-friendly e-bikes.<br />

Let the guide pack it in and pack<br />

it out for you. In warmer months,<br />

bring your swimsuit to cool off at<br />

a beach detour.<br />

www.chelanelectricbikes.com<br />

Red Mountain Trails: Saddle up<br />

for a trail-ride wine-tasting tour<br />

with these horse-loving guides.<br />

A picnic lunch and three winery<br />

stops are included in this fresh-air<br />

adventure. Not an equestrian at<br />

heart? Inquire about wagon rides.<br />

www.redmountaintrails.com<br />

10<br />

COMING FULL CIRCLE<br />

Rockstar winemaker Charles Smith fashioned Charles Smith Wines<br />

Jet City from a defunct Dr. Pepper bottling plant. Located in the<br />

Georgetown neighborhood of Seattle, this extraordinary setting takes advantage<br />

of Boeing Field runways and nearby mountainscapes. The two tasting rooms are<br />

a real mix, with rustic Northwest representing downstairs and Austin Powersmeets-James<br />

Bond happening upstairs.<br />

In the heart of downtown Seattle, wine lovers find their happy place at Purple<br />

Café and Wine Bar. Tours are given of the floor-to-ceiling “wine tower” which<br />

captivates first-time and returning guests. A team of sommeliers stands at the<br />

ready to help patrons with a wine list longer than 100 pages.<br />

With more than 100 wineries comprising Woodinville wine country, Bramble<br />

Bump at JM Cellars is an oasis. This 7-acre arboretum offers a trail system with<br />

more than 400 conifers and 200 Japanese maples, while a rock garden, bocce court,<br />

outdoor fire pits and multiple patios accent the grounds. Massive custom copper<br />

doors lead to the wine library and barrel room where guests can attend a private<br />

wine blending with owner and winemaker John Bigelow.<br />

Yakima Valley Carriage<br />

Company: Whether a romantic<br />

escape for two or a day with a<br />

group of friends, a horse-drawn<br />

carriage tour through Yakima<br />

Valley vineyards is an unrushed<br />

way to take it all in. Trot along<br />

from April 15 to <strong>October</strong> 31.<br />

www.yakimavalleycarriageco.com<br />

Photos by Lisa Monteagudo/MM3 Designs<br />

(center) and Jeanene Sutton (bottom)<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 51


Hanford’s B Reactor at the height<br />

of the Manhattan Project.<br />

Department of Energy<br />

52 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


Preserving<br />

the Past<br />

How to remember and celebrate<br />

the mixed legacy of Hanford<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53


Hanford.<br />

Long shrouded in secrecy, this 586 square miles<br />

of desert in southeast Washington played a pivotal role<br />

in World War II and the Cold War.<br />

It was the site of incredible scientific and technological advancements that dramatically<br />

changed the United States and the world. But the work that happened here wasn’t without<br />

consequence—it created the plutonium used in the nuclear bomb detonated over Nagasaki,<br />

and production of that plutonium and other nuclear weapons rendered it a Superfund site<br />

with 56 million gallons of nuclear waste.<br />

Hanford officially stopped producing plutonium and electricity in 1987, and today is<br />

known as much for the multibillion dollar cleanup as it is for the incredible backstory on<br />

how that waste came to be. Now, the federal government and a diverse group of community<br />

members are preserving the mixed legacy of this storied, if silent, place, with both the<br />

Manhattan Project National Historical Park and other efforts.<br />

Hanford’s History<br />

Mike Mays runs Washington State University’s<br />

Hanford History Project. Mays grew up in Washington,<br />

went to high school in Pullman and earned degrees<br />

from the University of Puget Sound and the University<br />

of Washington. Still, when he got to Richland for his<br />

appointment at WSU-Tri-Cities, he didn’t know much<br />

about Hanford.<br />

“My wife is from Alabama, and she was doing research<br />

and had to explain to me some of the details of the<br />

significance of the Tri-Cities and Richland and Hanford,”<br />

Mays said. “I was just shocked. Having grown up here<br />

and taken Washington state history in high school and to<br />

know really so little about what had happened was kind of<br />

shocking to me.”<br />

The site was selected by the federal government in<br />

1942 for its role in the Manhattan Project, a program<br />

to develop nuclear bombs in response to the Germans’<br />

discovery of nuclear fission. Hanford, along with Oak<br />

Ridge, Tennessee, and Los Alamos, New Mexico, were<br />

secret locations dedicated to figuring out how to harness<br />

the power of nuclear fission and create the bombs that<br />

eventually brought to a grinding halt World War II.<br />

When it was selected to house this section of the<br />

Manhattan Project, residents of White Bluffs and Hanford<br />

were given thirty days to leave their homes and farms<br />

in early 1943 and given a small amount of money to do<br />

so. Then, it was time to recruit the workers—eventually<br />

51,000 people in all. Many knew little about what they<br />

might be building or what the facilities would be used for.<br />

According to the federal government’s official Hanford<br />

website, making plutonium is inefficient—that is, to<br />

make a little plutonium you have to create a lot of<br />

waste, both liquid and solid. The site continued to create<br />

plutonium during the Cold War, and today about 8,000<br />

54 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


employees continue to decommission,<br />

decontaminate and take down the<br />

buildings used to make the plutonium.<br />

That means making sure the waste<br />

doesn’t get in the air, water, or ground.<br />

But Mays, like many who grew up<br />

here, had only the vaguest notion<br />

of all this. So he decided he could<br />

prevent other students from having<br />

that aha moment later in life. As an<br />

administrator, he searched for ways to<br />

build academics on campus, and found<br />

a natural match—advancing the history<br />

of Hanford.<br />

Community groups around the area<br />

had given oral histories, but there was<br />

no central clearinghouse. “They were<br />

tucked away in shoeboxes in people’s<br />

garages and attics and so forth,” Mays<br />

said. The Department of Energy created seed money to<br />

help the Hanford History Project begin conducting oral<br />

histories, primarily focused on the residents who lived in<br />

Hanford and nearby White Bluff before 1943. The project<br />

collected the oral histories hiding in people’s homes, as<br />

well as its own, all in one place. They’re now digitized,<br />

transcribed and on a website, www.hanfordhistory.com.<br />

WSU-Tri-Cities also offers a freshman interdisciplinary<br />

seminar course that focuses on Hanford history. Students<br />

work on semester-long projects devoted to the Manhattan<br />

Project and the area’s involvement in it.<br />

“While there are many people who know very deeply<br />

the history within the community … I would say most<br />

people are not fully aware of what the importance of the<br />

Manhattan Project was, not only for the community but<br />

for the world,” Mays said.<br />

The Hanford History Project also facilitates research<br />

and manages the Hanford Collection—3,000 unique<br />

artifacts collected from the Hanford site between 1997<br />

and 2014, dating between 1943 and 1990. Pieces from the<br />

collection are loaned out to museums, and the project<br />

continues to gather papers from notable Hanford alums.<br />

To Mays, preserving Hanford’s history is a simple<br />

choice—he believes the Manhattan Project was the<br />

most significant event of the twentieth century. “There’s<br />

a lot of competition for that claim, but the discovery of<br />

nuclear fission and the development of nuclear weapons<br />

fundamentally changed the way that we experience life,”<br />

he said.<br />

Mays believes there are several reasons Washington<br />

natives and other members of the public don’t have a<br />

strong understanding of the significance of Hanford.<br />

There’s an idea in Tri-Cities like many other places,<br />

Mays said, that “if it happened in my backyard it can’t be<br />

that interesting.”<br />

Years of lobbying resulted in B<br />

Reactor’s preservation.<br />

There’s also the fact that the project was so secret for so<br />

long—many people didn’t know that relatives worked at<br />

Hanford, or if they knew that’s where they worked, they<br />

didn’t know what they did there.<br />

Mays also points to Hanford’s mixed legacy, and believes<br />

sometimes the humanitarian and environmental questions<br />

overshadow the scientific advancements made there.<br />

“After Three Mile Island in 1979 and Chernobyl in 1986,<br />

there was a reconsideration of nuclear that was absolutely<br />

called for,” Mays said. “Nobody can argue with people’s<br />

concerns. … A lot of the story just gets eclipsed because of<br />

the very legitimate concerns of downwinders and the effects<br />

of not only the bombs that were dropped on Japan but the<br />

prolific testing that happened after that, and the impacts that<br />

had on communities from the Marshall Islands to Nevada to<br />

Washington and so on and so forth. It shifted the pendulum.”<br />

Now it’s about trying to get the pendulum back to<br />

the middle, Mays said—where the public can consider<br />

the incredible science and technological advancements<br />

made while also recognizing the humanitarian issues<br />

and environmental problems that came from the<br />

Manhattan Project.<br />

“The Tri-Cities community has been a little defensive,<br />

and they have some good reasons to be. It’s a community<br />

where the nuclear industry has been its lifeblood, first with<br />

the Manhattan Project and then with nuclear energy, and<br />

then with the complete reversal—with the cleanup,” Mays<br />

said. “So the tendency has been to focus a little bit more on<br />

the heroic, the Greatest Generation and the engineering<br />

and technological feats. That shouldn’t be discounted, but<br />

that’s only one part of the story. Likewise, if we only focused<br />

on contamination and the bombings of Nagasaki and<br />

Hiroshima, again that’s only one side of the story.”<br />

Department of Energy<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55


Today, the public can tour the B Reactor<br />

and other parts of Hanford.<br />

Atomic Heritage Foundation<br />

Preserving B Reactor<br />

Mays wasn’t the first person in the Tri-Cities to realize<br />

the importance of preserving Hanford’s history for<br />

future generations.<br />

For more than twenty-five years, a group calling itself<br />

the B Reactor Museum Association toiled in an effort to<br />

prevent the site’s destruction. The association is primarily<br />

made up of people who worked at Hanford, though it is<br />

open to anyone.<br />

John Fox, president of the B Reactor Museum<br />

Association, described the group as a grassroots effort to<br />

persuade federal authorities that instead of sealing it and<br />

forgetting about it, they should save just this one reactor.<br />

It took years, Fox said, and a lot of help from engineering<br />

societies around the country, to get the building designated<br />

as a historic engineering achievement.<br />

“It was a very high-risk gamble from the standpoint<br />

of physics and chemistry,” Fox said of the reactor and<br />

the rest of the site. “It was taking something from the<br />

very forefront of scientific research at the time to mass<br />

production on an industrial scale.”<br />

After the reactor was listed on the National Register of<br />

Historic Places in 1992, designated a National Historic<br />

Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994, and named a<br />

National Historic Landmark in 2008, the B Reactor<br />

opened for annual public tours in 2009. Not all of the<br />

building is available for tours—due to hazards—but the<br />

control room and much of where the action took place is<br />

open to visitors.<br />

Today, association members are still called on for<br />

special tours. Fox hosted a tour for Mitsugi Moriguchi,<br />

a survivor of the Nagasaki bombing. The year the bomb<br />

dropped, the Japanese visitor was 8 years old, while Fox<br />

turned 18. “I expected to be drafted to invade Japan, but<br />

the bomb was dropped in August and the war was over in<br />

September,” Fox said. “I wasn’t drafted, and Japan wasn’t<br />

invaded.” In other words, Fox said, the bomb affected his<br />

life in another way—he could very well have been killed in<br />

combat if the war had gone on.<br />

56 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


Creating a National Park<br />

“I think by studying the past, we get a better<br />

sense for the present. Obviously we are in<br />

a world full of nuclear weapons, on the one<br />

hand. On the other hand, the world is full of the<br />

benefits—nuclear medicine and research—that<br />

were generated by the project. … All of these<br />

advances have been a direct descendant of the<br />

work done in the Manhattan Project.”<br />

— Cindy Kelly, Atomic Heritage Foundation<br />

The B Reactor Museum Association worked with a<br />

variety of groups in preserving the reactor. Chief among<br />

those is Cindy Kelly, the founder and president of the<br />

Atomic Heritage Foundation.<br />

Kelly started the foundation in 2002 with the mission<br />

of creating a Manhattan Project National Historical Park.<br />

Over the past sixteen years, the foundation has worked<br />

to preserve properties at Hanford, as well as in Oak Ridge<br />

and Los Alamos, and worked with the local communities<br />

in those places to preserve and interpret the history.<br />

The Atomic Heritage Foundation also has a huge<br />

online presence, offering up primary source documents<br />

and oral histories to the curious—want to see Albert<br />

Einstein’s letter to FDR warning of the German effort<br />

to make an atomic bomb? You’re in luck. Want to hear<br />

female physicist Leona Marshall Libby explain xenon<br />

poisoning? You’ve come to the right place.<br />

“I think by studying the past, we get a better sense for<br />

the present,” Kelly said. “Obviously we are in a world full<br />

of nuclear weapons, on the one hand. On the other hand,<br />

the world is full of the benefits—nuclear medicine and<br />

research—that were generated by the project. Scientific<br />

innovations, high-speed computing, the human genome<br />

project, studies to understand what low doses of radiation<br />

can do in all sorts of contexts. All of these advances<br />

have been a direct descendant of the work done in the<br />

Manhattan Project, so it’s a very rich history.”<br />

The park was established in <strong>November</strong> 2015 after<br />

the Department of Energy and National Park Service<br />

came to an agreement on the project. DOE owns and<br />

manages the sites, while the park service handles visitor<br />

centers and interpretive services. In Hanford, the free,<br />

four-hour guided tours cover the B Reactor as well as<br />

several pre-Manhattan Project facilities, including the<br />

old high school and the Hanford Construction Camp<br />

Historic District.<br />

The biggest challenge of preserving Hanford, Fox said,<br />

came down to budget. The Department of Energy has a<br />

clear mission for Hanford at this point—to put its money<br />

into cleaning it up and packaging the 56 million gallons<br />

of nuclear waste that sit in underground tanks.<br />

“That’s proving to be more of a challenge than building<br />

and operating the place in the first place, which is ironic,”<br />

Fox said. “Anything that doesn’t fit in that cleanup mission<br />

is harder to justify in the eyes of the federal agency, so<br />

(the park) took a lot of persuasion.”<br />

Kelly recognizes the controversies of the Manhattan<br />

Project, both environmental and humanitarian, but said<br />

it’s important to keep it in context.<br />

“What’s the legacy of Gettysburg, or Antietam?” she<br />

asked. “The Civil War was a bloodbath. Talk about<br />

brutal—they were bayonetting each other and shortrange<br />

firing. If you look at it now, that field is kind of<br />

bucolic looking and it’s hard to imagine.”<br />

As to the environmental legacy, she notes only 10<br />

percent of the 580 square miles was used, and identified the<br />

environmental legacy of Hanford as one of advancing stateof-the-art<br />

environmental cleanup technologies.<br />

“Most of Hanford is pristine,” she said. “There’s a section of<br />

Hanford that has flora and fauna not seen in the wild since<br />

the days of Lewis and Clark. It’s always been a little frustrating<br />

to hear the drumbeat that it’s the largest Superfund site in<br />

the world.”<br />

When the idea of the Manhattan Project National<br />

Historical Park first surfaced, Kelly said the park service<br />

worried about putting rangers at a Superfund site. But, she<br />

said, there’s less radiation in the B Reactor than outside of it.<br />

“It’s not as bad as people think. Far from it,” she said. “That’s<br />

not to say there are not areas that are contaminated. The tank<br />

waste poses a unique disposal problem of what to do with it.”<br />

There is a section on the park’s website noting some areas<br />

are still part of “active DOE mission activities,” and as a result<br />

some of the facilities aren’t open to the public or can only be<br />

visited through bus tours.<br />

Fox hopes his group can help present more information<br />

about the environmental cleanup process, which Fox<br />

called “the fission product mess, which is the devilish<br />

problem here.”<br />

“History is what happened and why it happened at the time,<br />

with the level of knowledge and understanding at that time,”<br />

Fox said. “Looking back at whether it should have happened<br />

or been avoided, we can always debate that forever. But what<br />

happened, happened. We aren’t necessarily memorializing it<br />

or lauding it by preserving it. It’s as important to preserve<br />

it as a reminder of the bad consequences it had and to say,<br />

‘Maybe we should learn how to avoid doing these things<br />

when the next opportunity comes along.’”<br />

Kelly agreed.<br />

“It’s all part of our history,” Kelly said. “You don’t have<br />

to save everything—progress comes along. But I think it’s<br />

important to have something from every chapter. People are<br />

going to be curious about this, for generations to come.”<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 57


WIND WRANGLERS<br />

photography by Kate Daigneault<br />

Each summer, Long Beach is transformed for a<br />

week during the Washington State International<br />

Kite Festival. Kites of all sizes fill the skies with<br />

color as famous kite fliers show off their skills and<br />

tens of thousands of spectators watch in wonder.


A variety of kites soar above the Washington<br />

State International Kite Festival in Long Beach.


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A young attendee hitches a ride to get a better look at the large kite field. The street leading up to the festival offers snacks<br />

as well as places to buy kites of your own. A festival visitor readies his kite. John Stefan, left, and a friend work on getting a large kite into the air.<br />

60 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


62 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


CLOCKWISE FROM<br />

FAR LEFT One of the<br />

youngest competitors<br />

and field directors shows<br />

off his kite pins. Team<br />

Evidence performs a<br />

partners routine in the<br />

precision sport kite<br />

competition. Massive<br />

caterpillar kites fly along<br />

the ground in the large<br />

kite field. The crowd<br />

cheers during the sport<br />

kite ballet. Ribbons are<br />

awarded to festival<br />

competitors.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63


TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 66<br />

Justin Bailie<br />

ADVENTURE 68<br />

LODGING 74<br />

TRIP PLANNER 76<br />

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 82<br />

pg. 68<br />

Leaf Geraghty leads fishing expeditions.


travel spotlight<br />

Pacific Bonsai Museum<br />

Travel Spotlight<br />

Art and Nature<br />

Pacific Bonsai Museum is one<br />

of two in the United States<br />

written by Vanessa Salvia<br />

BONSAI TREES are living art, an artform<br />

that will never be completed or finished. It<br />

can take years to create an envisioned tree<br />

shape, followed by a lifetime of care. The<br />

Pacific Bonsai Museum in Federal Way, one<br />

of only two bonsai museums in the United<br />

States, presents bonsai as fine art pieces. The<br />

elegant, architect-designed outdoor setting<br />

offers seasonally rotating displays of fifty to<br />

sixty bonsai out of the museum’s 150 trees,<br />

some hundreds of years old. The exhibit was<br />

a private collection established in 1989 on the<br />

state of Washington’s 100th birthday. The<br />

exhibit transitioned to a nonprofit museum in<br />

2014. Trees are protected by acrylic enclosures<br />

when the temperature drops and are watered<br />

multiple times a day on hot days. Though it’s<br />

open-air, it’s still a museum, complete with<br />

themed exhibits, talks, demonstrations and<br />

tour guides. Admission by donation.


It’s an island thing.<br />

North Umpqua River<br />

For more than 20 years the<br />

best chefs and winemakers<br />

from around Oregon have<br />

joined forces at Steamboat<br />

Inn to create a special<br />

night of food, drink, and<br />

friendship. Reserve your<br />

place at the table and join<br />

the tradition.<br />

thesteamboatinn.com<br />

Photo by justinbailie.com<br />

Steamboat Inn operates under a Special Use Permit from the Umpqua National Forest<br />

Complimentary Wi-Fi • Complimentary Deluxe Breakfast Buffet<br />

Outdoor Pool and Hot Tub • The Crow’s Nest Bar and Grill<br />

Complimentary Bike Usage • Fridge and Microwave in Each Room<br />

Riverside Suites • Conference and Banquet Facilities • Pet-Friendly<br />

Near Historical Downtown Kennewick • Locally Owned and Operated<br />

435 CLOVER ISLAND DRIVE, KENNEWICK, WA<br />

866.586.0542 • 509.586.0541 • www.cloverislandinn.com<br />

Don’t risk a fall visit to Cannon Beach.<br />

It might rain; there could be rainbows and<br />

all sorts of annoying dramatic skies.<br />

cannonbeach.org


adventure<br />

Adventure<br />

Fall Fishing<br />

on the Columbia River<br />

Chartering a boat on opening day at Buoy 10<br />

written by Laura Cherau<br />

photography by Justin Bailie<br />

68 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


THE LATE SUMMER AIR is full of salt smell,<br />

warm and misty. I like getting up when it’s still<br />

dark and moving around outside with only<br />

the light of the bait-and-tackle truck. I have<br />

been told the salmon fishing is going to suck,<br />

because it’s early and the run was late last year,<br />

something blamed on warmer ocean and river<br />

conditions. But I am hopeful that beginner’s<br />

luck will play in my favor. I’ve never caught a<br />

fish. I’m 38.<br />

Leaf Geraghty is laid-back in the way you’d<br />

want a charter guide to be. Down-to-earth<br />

would be another way to describe him. He’s a<br />

big guy, a guy’s guy, a father and a contractor.<br />

He’ll try like hell to land you a fish on a bad day.<br />

He knows about the tides and weather and the<br />

sandbars. His humor is a bit Chevy Chase and<br />

a bit young Bruce Springsteen, I think.<br />

Geraghty’s dogs have already eaten his lunch, which<br />

he left on the stairs of his house while packing the boat<br />

up this morning. When I show up, though it is well<br />

before our starting time, he’s already got the boat in<br />

the water.<br />

Geraghty’s River Wolf is called the Bar Tender. It’s<br />

an open-sled boat with an offshore bracket and an<br />

Evanrude 300 hp—an excellent rough water boat<br />

to have on the lower Columbia. I know about the<br />

other kind of bartending and being a single mom and<br />

writing. I know next to nothing about fishing. I think<br />

I am supposed to be quiet. I’ve stared at this river for<br />

what feels like forever and watched people fish from<br />

shore. That’s what started this—I took a photograph<br />

of anglers on shore and the clouds opened and looked<br />

holy and I thought maybe I would like to fish too.<br />

The river is a person with a temperamental<br />

personality. She changes colors frequently. She can<br />

be soft like brown butter or violent and black. This<br />

morning her black water is kind and quiet and only<br />

lurches and laps the hull when I climb aboard.<br />

Geraghty leaves to park his truck and returns with<br />

his two dogs, who run down the dock and jump in the<br />

wrong boat. The boat’s owner looks confused. It’s still<br />

pitch black out. Geraghty gives the dogs a good talkingto,<br />

and they figure out the boat I am on is theirs.<br />

“We should be okay. If I fall off, just<br />

turn the motor off. We should be pretty<br />

good. Already a lot of guys are turning out<br />

and going to the ocean,” Geraghty says.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 69


adventure<br />

Charter guide Leaf Geraghty prepares<br />

for an early-morning fishing trip.<br />

The river is a person with a temperamental personality. She<br />

changes colors frequently. She can be soft like brown butter or<br />

violent and black. This morning her black water is kind and quiet<br />

and only lurches and laps the hull when I climb aboard.<br />

“Forecasts for the river are not the best. A little bit of daylight<br />

starting here, we got a full tank of gas, we got bait, just need a<br />

couple of Chinook to bite and we’re there.” It’s 5:30 a.m.<br />

Today we will not be tending the bar. We’re staying on the<br />

river. Often the Washington side of the river gets so crowded<br />

with boats during the Buoy 10 season that it looks like the<br />

occupants could join hands and form an island, or a chain, like<br />

some ants do during flood season. It’s a pretty spectacular sight<br />

from the minty green Astoria-Megler Bridge, which spans the<br />

width of the Columbia River and connects the northern corner<br />

of Oregon with the southern tip of Washington. “Sometimes a<br />

whale hangs out here,” I exhale as we pass. I want to see the<br />

whale. We don’t.<br />

We catch our first salmon of the day around 7 a.m. A 15-yearold<br />

boy from Long Island, New York, reels him in. “On the<br />

board! We’re on the board!” Geraghty exclaims. He gets on the<br />

phone. A big part of being a good guide is how many friends you<br />

have out on the water. All day Geraghty’s phone is blowing up<br />

to the opening chord progression of AC/DC’s “Highway to Hell.”<br />

They talk about where the fish are and what they seem to be<br />

biting. Today the answers seem to be “nowhere” and “nothing.”<br />

We mill around for hours, trolling with our lead droppers,<br />

flashers, anchovies and cut-plug herring. We use a<br />

spinner on the bow a couple of times.<br />

Ted Hughes, the English poet, thought fishing was<br />

meditative, “some form of communion with levels of<br />

70 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


PANTONE<br />

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adventure<br />

yourself that are deeper than the ordinary self.”<br />

I order myself to stay in the present moment.<br />

I know that if I catch anything, it is out of my<br />

control. It would be because a fish is hungry,<br />

or deranged, or because of the “short bus”<br />

flashers Geraghty said were “consistently good.”<br />

Or because of the tide, the cold water current,<br />

the weather, coincidence or something more<br />

spiritual that I failed to grasp.<br />

We decide to bail on the absentee Chinook<br />

and go sturgeon fishing in the afternoon. The<br />

sky is still gray cashmere and the hills misty and<br />

navy blue on the horizon. The water ebbs milky<br />

green identical to its foggy forest surroundings.<br />

When I finally reel in a green sturgeon it is<br />

exactly 1 inch longer than my 11-year-old son. It<br />

is hard to reel in a big green sturgeon the size of<br />

your child as fast as possible. My left arm and leg<br />

shake uncontrollably. I fear losing the rod. We<br />

measure him and then I let him go. After the<br />

fight is over, I realize I just made the sturgeon<br />

irritatingly late for something, like when I<br />

make my son brush his hair before he runs out<br />

the door.<br />

We have to wait for the tide to come back<br />

in to return to salmon fishing. “Got the curse!<br />

C’mon, stupid salmon! Beat it, seagull,” Geraghty<br />

says. We fish for more hours. I’ve been in boats<br />

before, but never for this long. I could have<br />

flown from Seattle to Dubai to much the same<br />

physical effect—the 3-foot chop mimicking<br />

in-flight turbulence of a mellow and fatigueinducing<br />

nature.<br />

When Geraghty finally throws his hands up<br />

and resigns himself to a beanbag chair and a can<br />

of Pringles, it is time to leave. He counts five<br />

total salmon caught from the boats he knows,<br />

including the one we caught. I am relieved<br />

beyond measure to be going home. It is fun<br />

when we do a big loop in the River Wolf on the<br />

way home, like going on two wheels in a Formula<br />

One racer. On the other hand, I feel like it’s<br />

making me late for something.<br />

On Thursday, those who want their limit<br />

head out to the ocean for Coho. I feel like a<br />

salmon fishing failure who just landed in Dubai<br />

and doesn’t wish to leave her hotel room. I am<br />

amazed to realize that I actually like this and I’d<br />

probably do it again. Would I go out for open<br />

ocean? Tuna? Marlin? I would. I vow to catch a<br />

damned salmon and eat him for dinner. I look<br />

forward to long hikes and winter steelhead. I<br />

need waders. Maybe I’ll get Geraghty to take me<br />

out for crab or coho or both.<br />

72 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


adventure<br />

FROM TOP LEFT Leaf Geraghty’s dogs, Ellie and Buddy. A caught fish. Geraghty<br />

prepares a line. Boats along the Columbia River. Geraghty holds a fish in a net.<br />

The Astoria-Megler Bridge spans the river.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 73


Photos: Fire & Vine Hospitality<br />

Lodging<br />

Eritage Resort<br />

written by Cara Strickland<br />

NESTLED INTO THE rolling fields and vineyards of Walla<br />

Walla wine country, you’ll find this adults-only resort, almost<br />

like a mirage. Eritage is the brainchild of Va Piano Vineyards<br />

owner and winemaker Justin Wylie, whose vision was to create<br />

a place to gather and relax in luxury, all while enjoying the best<br />

of what wine country has to offer. The resort is convenient to the<br />

local vineyards and for dining in and around Walla Walla, but<br />

far enough to help you feel you’re getting away from it all.<br />

1319 BERGEVIN SPRINGS ROAD<br />

WALLA WALLA<br />

eritageresort.com<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Eritage is a jumping-off<br />

point for wine tasting. Ten guest rooms populate<br />

this adults-only resort. Butterscotch pudding at the<br />

restaurant. Eritage plans to add ten more rooms.<br />

ACCOMMODATIONS<br />

There are currently ten guest rooms (ten more<br />

are soon to be constructed), each including<br />

a private deck or patio with views of the<br />

mountains or the manmade lake. Enjoy nightly<br />

turn-down service for your soft-as-air kingsized<br />

bed, luxury bath products and a stateof-the-art<br />

entertainment system for all your<br />

viewing needs. The rooms have a fireplace,<br />

seating area, a large shower and a soaking tub<br />

for ultimate relaxation.<br />

DINING<br />

All resort guests are invited to a continental<br />

breakfast with housemade baked goods<br />

and whatever other seasonal fare might be<br />

available. For dinner, check out Eritage’s<br />

intimate in-house restaurant, helmed by James<br />

Beard Award-winning chef Jason Wilson. The<br />

menu changes seasonally to allow the culinary<br />

team to showcase the region’s bounty.<br />

AMENITIES<br />

Enter fully into relaxation by booking an<br />

in-room massage during your stay. Get out on<br />

the lake with a paddleboard—complimentary<br />

for resort guests—or take a dip in the pool.<br />

Try your hand at a lawn game, or simply sit in a<br />

lawn chair and take in all the natural beauty.<br />

If you’re looking to host an event, keep in mind<br />

that Eritage is fully equipped for weddings,<br />

meetings and other gatherings.<br />

74 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


trip planner<br />

Small Town Roots,<br />

Bigtime Wine<br />

Walla Walla is about<br />

a lot more than just wine<br />

written by Catie Joyce-Bulay<br />

L’Ecole No. 41 is based<br />

in an old schoolhouse.<br />

I FIRST FELL in love with the Pacific Northwest while living in Eugene, Oregon. Even after I returned to my home<br />

state back east, the PNW kept calling to me and I eventually convinced my husband we needed to move back.<br />

He landed a job in Walla Walla, a town we knew nothing more about than as a Bugs Bunny cartoon reference.<br />

I soon found Washington’s Inland Empire to be a<br />

completely different planet from the Pacific Northwest I<br />

thought I knew. Far from being a disappointment, exploring<br />

all the Walla Walla Valley has to offer has been a grand<br />

adventure. Lush forests are replaced by rolling hills and high<br />

desert, a vibrant green in the spring, and changing colors<br />

every month after.<br />

As for the town, it doesn’t get much more charming. Yes,<br />

Walla Walla is best known for its wine, favoring bold Bordeaux<br />

styles, but it still holds strong roots in its farming community<br />

and pioneer heritage. It is home to three colleges<br />

which bring an abundance of arts and culture to<br />

the town of about 35,000. The wineries have helped<br />

cultivate a foodie scene that’s hard to beat.<br />

76 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


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trip planner<br />

Fort Walla Walla Museum<br />

Melissa McFadden<br />

Day<br />

WINE • OLD WEST CHARM • MODERN ART<br />

Driving into town from the west, catch the wind just right and<br />

you may be inspired to belt out a line from “America the Beautiful”<br />

when you see those amber waves of grain undulating across the<br />

plains like a golden ocean. Although Walla Walla’s tiny airport<br />

has daily flights to and from Seattle, driving gives you the perfect<br />

excuse to begin wine tasting before you even get to town. As the<br />

not-so-distant Blue Mountains come into view, so do the cluster<br />

of wineries that make up the Westside District.<br />

Woodward Canyon Winery is one of the first on Highway 12,<br />

and one of the oldest wineries and vineyards in the valley. Its<br />

tasting room, a restored 1870s farmhouse, was the old home of<br />

the teachers of Lowden School, next door, which today is also<br />

a winery. The 1915 restored school is home to L’Ecole No. 41<br />

Winery, where you can still ring the old school bell before stepping<br />

inside for a tasting. Enjoy a glass of their crisp, grapefruity Chenin<br />

Blanc (one of my favorites) while sunning on the patio.<br />

The first thing you’ll see as you spot town is its tallest building<br />

and hallmark of downtown, the Marcus Whitman Hotel and<br />

Conference Center. A stay in this historic hotel sets you up<br />

perfectly for a stroll through the Downtown District’s many<br />

wineries (you can’t throw a stone without hitting two), chic<br />

boutiques and restaurants.<br />

Spend the afternoon touring Walla Walla’s art paired with<br />

wine. Start at Foundry Vineyards, where rotating exhibits bring<br />

in world-renowned artists. The sculpture garden contains<br />

permanent pieces made at the Walla Walla Foundry. DAMA<br />

Wines’ new downtown tasting room showcases regional artists<br />

and each of the wine bottle labels of this woman-owned winery<br />

features a female artist. The wines at both are worth tasting even<br />

without the art. By now, you’ll begin to notice how approachable<br />

the wineries are, how readily pourers will give newbies the<br />

lowdown on what’s in the glass and how it got there, along with<br />

restaurant recommendations. It’s not uncommon to find the<br />

winemaker herself in the tasting rooms.<br />

Walk a few blocks more onto Whitman College’s campus<br />

and tour the sculptures. Tucked among giant trees, a Japanese<br />

garden and a footbridge-covered winding stream are totem poles<br />

and sculptures, many cast at the Foundry, including “Carnival,” a<br />

colorful Venus de Milo by celebrated Pop artist and Walla Walla<br />

resident Jim Dine. Don’t miss the Dale Chihuly glass sculptures<br />

in the Reid Campus Center and Cordiner Hall, then head to the<br />

Sheehan Gallery, home to the college’s indoor art collection.<br />

Dinner is a walk away through Main Street’s preserved brick<br />

buildings that readily recall its early days as a stopover on the<br />

Oregon Trail. I never miss an opportunity to have another bowl<br />

of T. Mac’s dreamy Bolognese when friends and family come to<br />

town. For fine French fare, Brasserie Four is a delight, and the new<br />

Soi 71’s Thai menu is spot on.<br />

78 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


trip planner<br />

Sarah Koenigsberg<br />

Day<br />

HISTORY • HIKING • PANORAMIC VIEWS PICNIC<br />

If you’re staying at the Marcus Whitman, you don’t have<br />

to go far for a great breakfast. The complimentary breakfast<br />

buffet has everything you need to provide a solid base for your<br />

busy day of hiking and wine tasting.<br />

History buffs will want to make a morning trip to Fort Walla<br />

Walla Museum, where you can roam through an authentic<br />

pioneer village and see a life-sized replica of a thirty-three-mule<br />

team pulling a Harris combine used to plow the steep slopes.<br />

Those looking for an abridged history lesson can visit the<br />

second floor of the Marcus Whitman Hotel, and see an artist<br />

rendition of the Whitman Mission and the region’s history.<br />

Get a jump on picnic-gathering supplies with a visit to<br />

neighboring College Place, which, like everything else, is only<br />

a ten-minute traffic-free drive away. Cugini Italian Import<br />

Foods has all the essentials for charcuterie, from housemade<br />

soppressata and salami to a variety of imported olives<br />

and cheeses.<br />

It will be worth the extra five-minute drive to visit Frog<br />

Hollow Farm’s farm stand beside its century-old farmhouse<br />

for fresh heirloom vegetables (find its tomatoes in many<br />

downtown and Seattle restaurants).<br />

Epic picnic views abound across town on Pikes Peak Road<br />

or Scenic Loop Road. Visit an eastside winery on the way, like<br />

Walla Walla Vintners, to pick up a bottle to go, before winding<br />

FROM LEFT A living history character at Fort Walla Walla Museum. Cugini Italian<br />

Import Foods has the charcuterie makings ready for you. Foundry Vineyards<br />

features a raft of art. Woodward Canyon Winery is in the Westside District. DAMA<br />

Wines has a new downtown tasting room. Brasserie Four serves up French food, like<br />

this bouillabaisse. The Marcus Whitman Hotel is the crown jewel of hotels.<br />

up the hillside for breathtaking views of the valley’s farmlands<br />

below.<br />

For a hike in the Blues, take Mill Creek Road to Tiger Canyon,<br />

winding up the dramatic canyon striped with ponderosa pines<br />

on its north-facing slopes and wildflowers to the south. The<br />

road eventually turns to dirt, with Umatilla National Forest<br />

and hiking trails on the right and Mill Creek Watershed on<br />

the left. Head to Deduct Trailhead to hike in the forest along<br />

the North Fork of the Walla Walla or farther to Table Rock for<br />

rim views.<br />

After a hike, the southside wineries are the perfect place<br />

to relax, home to the newly designated Rocks District AVA.<br />

Northstar Winery has one of my favorite glass-in-hand views<br />

of the vineyards, foothills and mountains. Back in town, swing<br />

by the Vineyard Lounge for its happy hour. I recommend<br />

the local wine of the month paired with chorizo-stuffed<br />

mushrooms and fried calamari with housemade dipping<br />

sauces. Then stroll across the street to the Whitehouse-<br />

Crawford, whose farm-to-table ingredients are impeccably<br />

and elegantly prepared.<br />

If you still have energy, Club Sapolil has live music<br />

most nights, offering a laid-back wine bar vibe.<br />

Check out the Gesa Power House Theatre or The<br />

Little Theatre of Walla Walla for live performances.<br />

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 79


trip planner<br />

WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON<br />

EAT<br />

T. Mac’s<br />

www.tmacsww.com<br />

Brasserie Four<br />

www.brasseriefour.com<br />

Soi 71: A Thai Noodle House<br />

www.soi71noodlehouse.com<br />

Whitehouse-Crawford<br />

www.whitehousecrawford.com<br />

Colville Street Patisserie<br />

www.colvillestreetpatisserie.com<br />

Maple Counter Cafe<br />

www.maplecountercafe.com/wpsite<br />

Graze<br />

www.grazeevents.com<br />

STAY<br />

Marcus Whitman Hotel &<br />

Conference Center<br />

www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com<br />

Walla Faces Inn<br />

www.wallafaces.com/hotels/<br />

Abeja<br />

www.abeja.net/inn<br />

Green Gables Inn<br />

www.greengablesinn.com<br />

Day<br />

FROM LEFT Burwood Brewing is a great stop when you’re tired of wine<br />

tasting. Walla Walla Community College has a College Cellars.<br />

BIRDING BENNINGTON LAKE • BREWS • AIRPORT DISTRICT<br />

Maxwell House Bed & Breakfast<br />

www.themaxwellhouse.com<br />

PLAY<br />

Woodward Canyon Winery<br />

www.woodwardcanyon.com<br />

L’Ecole No. 41 Winery<br />

www.lecole.com<br />

Foundry Vineyards<br />

www.foundryvineyards.com<br />

DAMA Wines<br />

www.damawines.com<br />

College Cellars<br />

www.collegecellars.com<br />

Sheehan Gallery<br />

www.whitman.edu/sheehan/<br />

Sheehan_Exhibitions.html<br />

Hiking the Blue Mountains<br />

www.bmlt.org/new-page-2<br />

Birding at Bennington Lake<br />

www.blumtn.org<br />

Club Sapolil<br />

www.sapolil.com<br />

Gesa Power House Theatre<br />

www.phtww.com<br />

The Little Theatre of Walla Walla<br />

ltww.org<br />

Burwood Brewing Company<br />

burwoodbrewing.com<br />

Quirk Brewing<br />

www.quirkbrewing.com<br />

DW Distilling<br />

www.dwdistilling.net<br />

Walla Walla Distilling Company<br />

www.wallawalladistillingcompany.com<br />

For a lighter breakfast, I love starting my<br />

morning off at Colville Street Patisserie. Get<br />

there when it opens at 9 a.m., while the bright<br />

morning light filters in and the warm freshly<br />

baked pastries are being brought out. It’s<br />

never too early to sample the gelato, inspired<br />

by local ingredients like sweet pea or honey<br />

lavender. For heartier fare, try the pancakes<br />

or the Eggs Casey, topped with creamy<br />

mushroom sauce, at Maple Counter Café<br />

across the street.<br />

Then head to Bennington Lake, a popular<br />

recreation area for locals. Walk, run or bike<br />

the trails around this reservoir for great views<br />

and opportunities to spot a variety of ducks,<br />

geese and other birds. Get there on a Tuesday<br />

morning and meet up with the Blue Mountain<br />

Audubon Society’s weekly bird walk.<br />

Afterward, stop in at nearby Walla Walla<br />

Community College’s College Cellars,<br />

where students of the renowned enology<br />

and viticulture program produce an array<br />

of award-winning wines. Attendants of the<br />

student-run tasting room are eager to share<br />

what they’re learning, and you’ll get a taste<br />

of some lesser-known varieties and maybe a<br />

tour of the production facility. Head back into<br />

downtown for more lunch options. Graze’s<br />

veggie torta is one of my favorite sandwiches<br />

and the pizza of the day never disappoints at<br />

Olive Marketplace and Café.<br />

Around day three of showing visitors the<br />

sights, wine fatigue starts to set in. Luckily,<br />

Walla Walla has some great craft breweries<br />

and distilleries to switch it up. I head to the<br />

Airport District, where tasting and tap rooms<br />

for all three craft beverages are housed in the<br />

World War II Army base. Get caffeinated<br />

at Walla Walla Roastery or relax with a<br />

black ale on the lawn of Burwood Brewing<br />

Company. You can sample Walla Walla wines<br />

in the form of brandy by the fireside in DW<br />

Distilling’s tasting room. It’s worth making the<br />

appointment to visit Walla Walla Distilling<br />

Company in the old guard station, where you<br />

can sip a lavender-forward gin in the funky<br />

tasting room made from recycled materials.<br />

Make Quirk Brewing and Agapas Mexican<br />

Cravings food truck your final stop. Check<br />

out the eclectic tap list, then ask for an ale<br />

made with local Mainstem Malt. After the<br />

friendly pourer tells you its local grainto-glass<br />

story, you’ve probably identified<br />

a pattern of camaraderie and community<br />

pride that runs through the veins of everyone<br />

here. I’m not allowed to call myself a local<br />

yet, but when I am, I’ll be proud to call Walla<br />

Walla home.<br />

80 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


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northwest destination<br />

DANCIN Vineyards is an Italian villastyle<br />

tasting spot in Medford.<br />

Southern Oregon Wineries in the Fall<br />

Head to Oregon’s other wine country for culture, cafés and carafes of wine<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

Andrea Johnson Photography<br />

ANY WAY YOU propel yourself<br />

through Southern Oregon—walking,<br />

cycling or driving—you can connect<br />

the natural and cultural dots that<br />

make this region the sketchbook of<br />

wine lovers. There are rolling hills<br />

that run into the forested Siskiyous,<br />

valleys with generous exposure to<br />

the sun, small towns with upscale<br />

dining from local bounty and<br />

world-class Shakespearean theater<br />

at its heart. Taken together, these<br />

things make for the quintessential<br />

Oregon getaway.<br />

This trip builds around the tickets<br />

for any performance at the Oregon<br />

Shakespeare Festival. The <strong>2018</strong><br />

season ends in mid-<strong>October</strong> with<br />

Henry V and Romeo and Juliet on the<br />

Shakespeare stages and Manahatta<br />

and Snow in Midsummer, among<br />

others, on the modern stage. The<br />

2019 season picks up again in March,<br />

with As You Like It and Hairspray,<br />

for starters.<br />

I remember being in the audience<br />

for my first big production play. It was<br />

nowhere near the professional level as<br />

OSF, yet left an indelible mark on the<br />

younger me. Bringing your own kids<br />

to OSF is more magical than Disney.<br />

Hie thee now from bard to bounty.<br />

Southern Oregon wineries are not<br />

an undifferentiated bundle of grapes.<br />

The wineries and regions here are<br />

as distinct as the varietals—from<br />

cooler Burgundian pinot noirs and<br />

chardonnay in the Umpqua region to<br />

Spanish, Italian and Rhone wines in<br />

the southern regions.<br />

Irvine & Roberts is a comely<br />

winery in the rolling hills of the<br />

southern Cascades and<br />

Siskiyou ranges 5 miles<br />

southeast of Ashland. The<br />

tasting room and patio<br />

There are rolling hills<br />

that run into the forested<br />

Siskiyous, valleys with<br />

generous exposure to<br />

the sun, small towns with<br />

upscale dining from local<br />

bounty and world-class<br />

Shakespearean theater at<br />

its heart. Taken together,<br />

these things make<br />

for the quintessential<br />

Oregon getaway.<br />

82 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


or Facebook for info ab<br />

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northwest destination<br />

SOUTHERN OREGON WINE COUNTRY<br />

EAT<br />

The Twisted Cork<br />

www.thetwistedcorkgrantspass.<br />

com<br />

Porters<br />

www.porterstrainstation.com<br />

Hearsay<br />

www.hearsayashland.com<br />

Larks<br />

www.larksrestaurant.com<br />

Smithfields<br />

www.smithfieldsashland.com<br />

Jacksonville Inn<br />

www.jacksonvilleinn.com<br />

Rogue Grape<br />

www.theroguegrape.com<br />

Urban Cork<br />

www.theurbancork.com<br />

STAY<br />

Ashland Hills<br />

www.ashlandhillshotel.com<br />

Peerless<br />

www.peerlesshotel.com<br />

Lodge at Riverside<br />

www.thelodgeatriverside.com<br />

Elan<br />

www.elanguestsuites.com<br />

PLAY<br />

Oregon Shakespeare Festival<br />

www.osfashland.org<br />

Irvine & Roberts<br />

www.irvinerobertsvineyards.<br />

com<br />

DANCIN<br />

www.dancinvineyards.com<br />

Cliff Creek Cellars<br />

www.cliffcreek.com<br />

Augustino Estate<br />

www.augustinoestate.com<br />

Wooldridge Creek WInery<br />

www.wcwinery.com<br />

serve as much as a serene getaway as they do<br />

a platform for lovely wines. The first acres<br />

planted were pinot noir and chardonnay in<br />

2007, before planting pinot meunier in 2012.<br />

The chardonnay is exceptional, as is its pinot<br />

noir, but the pinot meunier steals the show.<br />

DANCIN Vineyards—a crush of the prenoms<br />

Dan and Cindy Marca, the hardworking<br />

proprietors of this Italianate retreat in<br />

Medford—is another favorite. Not only does<br />

DANCIN have the best label art, its dining and<br />

wine-tasting spaces inspire conversation. If not<br />

for the camera function to capture the beautiful<br />

vistas, cell phones would be neglected in favor<br />

of old-fashioned banter.<br />

Another favorite of ours is Cliff Creek Cellars.<br />

The cabernet sauvignon, syrah and Super<br />

Tuscan are fantastic in the bucolic Gold Hill<br />

vineyard. Cliff Creek also has a tasting room<br />

up north in Newberg. If you’re passing through<br />

Newberg on another wine tour, put Cliff Creek<br />

Cellars on your list. Set in a renovated bank<br />

with Ionic columns and a vault used as a wine<br />

cellar, this tasting room has patina.<br />

Augustino in the Illinois Valley offers its<br />

visitors two experiences—a tasting in the old<br />

red barn near Grants Pass and the more lofty<br />

tasting room in a treehouse in O’Brien, 7 miles<br />

southwest of Cave Junction.<br />

Wooldridge Creek Winery in the Applegate<br />

Valley got an early jump on others, planting<br />

grapes for hobby wine in 1978. Over time,<br />

it grew into a producer of grapes for other<br />

regional winemakers. Today, Wooldridge<br />

T. Charles Erickson.<br />

FROM LEFT The Oregon Shakespeare Festival’s Allen<br />

Elizabethan Theatre during OSF’s 2013 production of A<br />

Midsummer Night’s Dream. Irvine & Roberts’ patio is a great<br />

spot for a short getaway.<br />

Creek is a farming mecca, producing great<br />

wines, cheese at its creamery and its own<br />

charcuterie. Either visit its tasting room,<br />

Vinfarm, in Grants Pass, where the winery<br />

serves its cheese and charcuterie in a brickwalled<br />

den, or head out to the winery and farm<br />

for expansive views.<br />

There are too many amazing wines and<br />

tasting experiences to get to in one visit. Valley<br />

View Winery in the Applegate Valley is one.<br />

Try the chardonnay and viognier.<br />

In Medford, the downtown wine scene is<br />

coming to life with tasting rooms, including<br />

Urban Cork and the new Rogue Grape, a brick<br />

building with local and regional wines in house.<br />

In a climate where wine grapes thrive,<br />

naturally so does other produce and meat,<br />

setting the table for some of the state’s best<br />

farm-to-table restaurants. In Ashland, Hearsay,<br />

Larks and Smithfields are a few that top the<br />

charts for local and exquisite. In Jacksonville,<br />

Gogi’s and Jacksonville Inn are favorites, the<br />

latter for its atmosphere and wine selection and<br />

the former for its mustard-crusted filet mignon<br />

and cocktails.<br />

In Medford try Porters, a renovated train<br />

station with local fare and more than thirty<br />

wines by the glass. In Grants Pass, The Twisted<br />

Cork fits nicely into the theme of local food<br />

and wine.<br />

Just a few years ago, the Southern Oregon<br />

wine scene was sleepy and largely unheralded.<br />

Today its wines are garnering top honors and<br />

its restaurants are the epitome of bounty.<br />

Cornelius Matteo<br />

84 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


Eat.<br />

Drink.<br />

Explore.<br />

See Albany <br />

Discover Oregon<br />

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Fabulous cuisine,<br />

artisanal brews,<br />

historic districts, <br />

architectural wonders.<br />

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110 3rd Ave SE<br />

Albany, OR 97321


<strong>1889</strong> MAPPED<br />

The points of interest below are culled from<br />

stories and events in this edition of <strong>1889</strong>.<br />

Oroville<br />

Forks<br />

Friday Harbor<br />

Port Angeles Coupeville<br />

Port<br />

Townsend<br />

Bellingham<br />

Mount Vernon<br />

Lakewood<br />

Marysville<br />

Everett<br />

Okanogan<br />

Republic<br />

Colville<br />

Newport<br />

Aberdeen<br />

South<br />

Bend<br />

Shelton<br />

Montesano<br />

Port Orchard<br />

Cathlamet<br />

Longview<br />

Olympia<br />

Chehalis<br />

Kelso<br />

Seattle<br />

Bellevue<br />

Renton<br />

Kent<br />

Federal Way<br />

Tacoma<br />

Ellensburg<br />

Yakima<br />

Waterville<br />

Wenatchee<br />

Ephrata<br />

Prosser<br />

Richland<br />

Pasco<br />

Wilbur<br />

Kennewick<br />

Ritzville<br />

Dayton<br />

Walla<br />

Walla<br />

Davenport<br />

Spokane<br />

Colfax<br />

Pomeroy<br />

Asotin<br />

Vancouver<br />

Stevenson<br />

Goldendale<br />

Live<br />

Think<br />

Explore<br />

18<br />

Kalama Harbor Lodge<br />

38<br />

Rover<br />

66<br />

Pacific Bonsai Museum<br />

21<br />

Cochinito Taqueria<br />

40<br />

Double Canyon Winery<br />

68<br />

Buoy 10<br />

22<br />

28<br />

34<br />

Cranberry farms<br />

Modern Wagon<br />

West Coast Sea Glass<br />

41<br />

42<br />

44<br />

UW-Gonzaga Regional<br />

Health Partnership<br />

UnCruise<br />

Water From Wine<br />

74<br />

76<br />

82<br />

Eritage Resort<br />

L’Ecole No. 41 Winery<br />

Southern Oregon wine country<br />

86 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


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with these wonderful local shops!<br />

PHOTOS: BLAINE FRANGER / BEAUTIFULHOODRIVER.COM<br />

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Harvest Fest | Oct. 12-14<br />

Holiday Open House | Nov. 16-18<br />

Small Business Saturday | Nov. 24<br />

Holiday Parade & Tree Lighting | Dec. 7<br />

Hood River Foodie February | all month<br />

Stay 2 consecutive nights in a Riverview<br />

room at the Westcliff Lodge during your visit<br />

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use at any of our local partner restaurants,<br />

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Until Next Time<br />

A Transformational Kayak Journey<br />

written by Cheryl Dimof<br />

IT WAS OUR LAST DAY on the island, and I asked myself if I had to go home. I could sneak off,<br />

ditch work, responsibilities, and live out a castaway fantasy—at least for the short time our Pacific<br />

Northwest weather would comfortably support it. There would, of course, be treks across the island to<br />

Tillicum Village for smoked salmon and mimosas. One cannot rough it too much.<br />

Twelve women, including our guides Maria Cook<br />

and Spring Courtright—who lead three of these<br />

“Transformational Kayak Journeys” every summer—<br />

had paddled our kayaks 2.5 miles from Bainbridge<br />

Island to Blake Island, accompanied by the occasional<br />

harbor porpoise.<br />

For three days and two nights, we camped on the sandy<br />

northwest tip of the island. We hiked, made beach art, ate,<br />

drank wine (I came prepared with my stainless-steel REI<br />

stemware), read poetry and had a combination of “sharing<br />

time” and quiet solo time. We turned off our cell phones,<br />

broke free of social media and connected with nature,<br />

each other and ourselves.<br />

Yoga on the beach was among our island adventures. A<br />

seaplane, landing nearby, disturbed our asanas. Emerging<br />

from the plane was a neatly dressed young couple with a<br />

picnic basket, which elicited gasps of excitement from our<br />

group: “Look! He’s going to propose!” “It’s so romantic!”<br />

“Let’s show them our butts!” Our intention of mindfulness<br />

sparred with our voyeuristic tendencies. As we downward<br />

dogged, we watched them sit down together on a log. As<br />

we tadasana-ed, we watched them picnic. “I hope she says<br />

yes after all this,” one woman observed. As we vrksasanaed,<br />

we watched them kiss. They returned to the plane<br />

accompanied by the sound of cheering women.<br />

Our practice completed, we gathered our tarp, turned<br />

our thoughts from yoga (and romance) and completed<br />

our weekend adventure. Wind and waves challenged our<br />

return home and, though the rudder on my kayak broke,<br />

I was able to paddle my boat capably against the forces<br />

of nature.<br />

Was the journey transformational? I’m sure it was for<br />

the couple beginning their lives together. Perhaps someday<br />

the story they tell their children will include a bunch of<br />

wild middle-aged yoginis. As for me, I was reminded that<br />

I could do without too much extra stuff—without the REI<br />

stemware or the iPhone. That not every adventure has to<br />

be Instagrammed. That I could, in fact, paddle my own<br />

canoe (or, in this case, kayak). I ditched my recent favorite<br />

outdoor buzz phrase of “I love not camping,” and learned<br />

that, in this second childhood of mine, pitching a tent on<br />

the beach is, once again, awesome.<br />

The island calls me to visit again soon to live out a bit<br />

more of my castaway (but with drinks and appetizers and<br />

yoga) fantasy.<br />

Sometimes I get what I’ve heard is called fernweh—an<br />

aching for faraway places I’ve never been. But experiences<br />

like this remind me that the Pacific Northwest is special<br />

and renews my appreciation and gratitude for this<br />

beautiful corner of the world that I call home.<br />

88 <strong>1889</strong> WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE OCTOBER | NOVEMBER <strong>2018</strong>


SEE THE FOREST<br />

FOR THE CHEESE<br />

KEEP IT REAL. KEEP IT WASHINGTON.<br />

Washington dairy. As delicious as our state is beautiful.<br />

WADAIRY.ORG


AMAZED<br />

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING | LOCAL HARVEST | ART WALKS<br />

BALD EAGLE VIEWING | ELECTRIFYING EVENTS

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