OnTrak Fall 2018

FALL 

2018 

WEEKENDER 

MLS SOCCER BY TRAIN 

SEATTLE 

CITY OF LITERATURE 

VANCOUVER, BC 

ON A BUDGET 

TAKE US 

WITH YOU 

Compliments of 

Amtrak Cascades ® 

THE PNW 

HOLIDAY 

Gift 

Guide 

R 

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades route

IGNITE YOUR INSPIRATION 

Immerse yourself in the work of Dale Chihuly with a walk through the 

Galleries, Garden and the Glasshouse. Continue your experience with 

artistically-inspired dishes at Collections Café and explore the personal 

story of Chihuly through his whimsical Collections. 

LOCATED AT THE BASE OF THE 

SPACE NEEDLE, SEATTLE CENTER 

CHIHULYGARDENANDGLASS.COM 

PRIVATE TOUR PACKAGES AVAILABLE. VISIT US ONLINE TO LEARN MORE.

Features 

FALL 2018 

34 

The PNW Gift Guide 

Our staff searched high and low for the 

best gifts made in the Pacific Northwest. 

Get your shopping done now 

with our gift guide. 

written by OnTrak staff 

52 

Pinball Wizards 

The Seattle Pinball Museum is a 

trip down pop-culture memory lane, 

with machines you can play dating back 

to 1960 and older ones on display. 

photography by Meghan Nolt 

46 

Vancouver (on the Cheap) 

We’re here to prove you can hit up this big city on a 

budget. Check out our insider tips for a thrifty trip. 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

2 | FALL 2018 www.ontrakmag.com

360.671.3990 

bellingham.org 

CRAFT BREWERIES | ELECTRIFYING EVENTS | NIGHTLIFE 

ADVENTURES BY LAND AND SEA | HOTEL PACKAGES 

POW! 

SHAZZAM!


Departments 

INTRO 

6 Letter 

8 Contributors 

10 Digital 

BUSINESS 

12 Green Biz 

Portland’s Free Geek seeks to 

eliminate the digital divide and 

save the environment, one old 

computer at a time. 

14 

Q&A 

Long a hub of literary love, 

UNESCO has named Seattle 

a City of Literature. 

CULTURE 

16 Art 

Tucked away on Whidbey Island 

is an all-women writing residency 

program, where visitors can learn 

to build a fire and get down to the 

business of writing. 

18 Music 

Vancouver, BC’s Dan Mangan 

didn’t plan to be a full-time 

musician, but we’re lucky it 

worked out that way. 

19 Chef Spotlight 

Jamie Guerin took a chance 

on Walla Walla, and you 

should take a chance on 

The Whitehouse-Crawford. 

20 Event Calendar 

Plan your travel around our 

calendar of music, art, theater, 

film, sports and festivals. 

OUTDOORS 

24 Athlete 

Rohre Titcomb dreams big about the future 

of Ultimate Frisbee. 

26 Notes from the Adventure 

The Oregon Coast is calling—grab your 

hiking boots and head out on trails you’ve 

never heard of. 

28 

32 

67 

Athlete 

pg. 24 

Ultimate player Rohre Titcomb. 

Cascadia Cup 

Traveling to Major League Soccer games 

around the Northwest is never easier than 

on Amtrak Cascades. 

Everett 

This Seattle suburb proves great things 

can be hiding outside the big cities. 

Exposure 

Submit a photo for a chance to win 

the photo contest. 

EXPLORE GUIDE 

Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop 

58 

Oregon 

61 Washington 

64 Vancouver 

68 Route Maps 

71 Amtrak Cascades 

News & Notes 

72 Parting Shot 

Paul Rutherford 

ON THE COVER: The PNW Holiday Gift Guide (see pg. 34). PHOTO BY ALLISON BYE 

4 | FALL 2018 

www.ontrakmag.com

The besT in 

AlAskA VAcATions 

for over 70 years 

Denali Rail Tours • Escorted Tours • Sightseeing 

Vacation packages featuring travel aboard our luxury, glass-domed railcars range from 1-8 nights and visit a 

Vacation packages featuring travel aboard our luxury, glass-domed railcars range from 1-8 nights and visit variety of destinations including Anchorage, Talkeetna, and Denali. Book your 2019 adventure today! 

variety of destinations including Anchorage, Talkeetna, and Denali. Book your 2019 adventure today! 

graylinealaska.com 1.800.544.2206 

* Restrictions apply. See website for details. 

Restrictions apply. See website for details.

A Note from Us 

AFTER A CENTURY of service, Salem’s hard-won train 

station is celebrating its 100th “rebirth”-day, with a return 

to grandeur. 

Architecturally unique, the Salem depot was built by 

Southern Pacific Railroad after citizens conducted a twoyear 

campaign to get a modern gateway worthy of the 

state capital. 

In May 1917, Southern Pacific conceded to build the 

depot. Recognizing Salem’s importance to Oregon, the 

architect chose Beaux Arts style, combining the classical 

architecture of ancient Greece and Rome with Renaissance 

ideas. The style conveys order and symmetry and is 

most commonly found in public buildings. But construction 

was slow to get underway because of wartime shortages 

in manpower and materials. The station opened its 

doors unceremoniously on September 25, 1918, during 

World War I. 

The depot served Salem well through the Great Depression 

and World War II. Postwar, rail passenger service 

began a long decline as automobile and air travel became 

increasingly popular. During the 1950s, the station 

was “modernized” with installation of a false ceiling in 

the waiting area that reduced ceiling height from 24 feet 

to 9 feet, blocking the view of the high-arched windows. 

Two 30-inch glass globe chandeliers illuminating the 

waiting room were removed. 

In 1970, Congress created Amtrak to subsume passenger 

services operated by railroads nationwide, and Salem 

would become part of that network. In 1995, Southern 

Pacific sold the station and underlying real estate to the 

Oregon Department of Transportation. 

ODOT restored the building to its original stateliness, 

including replicating the globe chandeliers. This year, in 

preparation for the centennial, the depot was repainted, 

furniture was refinished inside and out, and landscaping 

was refreshed. Historic photos of the 1918 depot and its 

predecessor were enlarged and framed to display in the 

waiting room. 

The Salem station is a treasure of rail history in Oregon. 

We invite Amtrak Cascades customers and train 

enthusiasts to stop over at the Salem station to view our 

renovations and historic artifacts on display. 

Robert I. Melbo 

State Rail Planner 

Oregon Department of Transportation 


www.ontrakmag.com

enjoy 

relax 

The Smart Way to Travel 

sip 

Avoid gridlock and traffi c delays along the I-5 corridor on Amtrak Cascades. Relax, 

sip Northwest wine, enjoy the scenery or use our free wi-fi while you cruise down the 

tracks. Amtrak Cascades offers daily service between Vancouver BC and Eugene, with 

convenient stops in Seattle, Portland and 14 other cities. Amtrak Cascades is the smart 

and fun way to travel. 

www.AmtrakCascades.com 

surf 

Save 25% with 14-day advance purchase | Children – 50% off 

Restrictions Apply.

Contributors 


Ben Salmon 

Writer—Musician 

(pg. 18) 

Emily Green 

Photographer—PNW Gift Guide 

(pg. 34) 

Meghan Nolt 

Photographer—Gallery 

(pg. 52) 

Michelle DeVona 

Writer—Artist 

(pg. 16) 

In 2011, I saw Dan Mangan 

open for The Decemberists 

in Bend, Oregon, where 

he won over the earlyarriving 

crowd with his 

seemingly endless supply 

of charm and melody. 

Ever since, I’ve thought of 

him as one of the region’s 

under-appreciated artists. 

With a couple of Junos 

(think of them as Canadian 

Grammys) on his shelf 

now, that’s less true than 

it used to be. But he’s still 

a super-skilled songwriter 

who deserves to be heard 

by more people every day. 

As fall invites us in, I am 

delighted to be here in 

Oregon for all the changing 

colors and crisp air. Winter 

isn’t far away now, which 

is why I was given the 

opportunity to photograph 

the OnTrak holiday gift 

guide. Product photography 

is always a refreshing 

change of pace for me, 

especially since I get to stay 

home, put on some music 

and take pictures of some 

pretty great gift ideas for 

loved ones. 

I’ve lived in Seattle for twoand-a-half 

years and had 

never heard of the Seattle 

Pinball Museum before 

getting this assignment. It’s 

times like these that make 

me realize I still have so 

much to explore in this fun 

and eclectic city. It was so 

cool to see the different 

pinball games, some dating 

back to the 1930s, and 

to hear from the owners, 

Cindy and Charlie, how 

the museum came to be. 

The art and design that go 

into the games’ creation is 

truly amazing! 

When I first learned about 

all of the amazing things 

Hedgebrook is doing for 

women writers, I knew 

this was a story I needed 

to share. Half the fun was 

taking the windy ferry ride 

across the Puget Sound 

to Whidbey Island. It was 

truly a pleasure to meet 

Hedgebrook’s founder, 

Nancy Nordhoff, and learn 

all about how she created 

this idyllic writers retreat 

for women. 


www.ontrakmag.com

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades ® route 

Editor - Kevin Max 

Managing Editor - Sheila G. Miller 

Creative - Allison Bye 

Marketing + Digital Manager - Kelly Rogers 

Office Manager - Cindy Miskowiec 

Director of Sales - Jenny Kamprath 

Advertising Account Executives - 

Cindy Guthrie, Jenn Redd 

Contributing Writers - Michelle DeVona, Valerie Rogers, 

Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, Chad Walsh 

Contributing Photographers - Emily Green, Meghan Nolt 

www.statehoodmedia.com 

www.facebook.com/AmtrakCascades 

@Amtrak_Cascades 

www.facebook.com/OnTrakMag 

@OnTrakMag 

PUBLISHED BY 

Statehood Media, LLC 

70 SW Century Drive, Suite 100-218 

Bend, Oregon 97702 

541•728•2764 

Printed in Canada 

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or 

by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information 

storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. 

Articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without 

the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and Statehood Media are not responsible 

for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles 

are not necessarily those of Statehood Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management. 

www.ontrakmag.com FALL 2018 | 9

Digital Experience 


MORE ONLINE 

Bridging the Digital Divide 

MOBILE 

Follow us on Facebook: 

www.facebook.com/OnTrakMag 

www.facebook.com/AmtrakCas- 

Follow us on Twitter: 


@Amtrak_Cascades 

Follow us on Instagram: 


Angela Holm Photography 

EXPOSURE PHOTO CONTEST 

What Does Your 

PNW Look Like? 

Portland’s Free Geek accepts your old technology donations and your volunteer hours. To 

learn more or to get involved, head to www.freegeek.org. 

DEALS 

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! 

Want more Oregon and Washington? 

Subscribe to 1859 and 1889 magazines and 

discover the best the PNW has to offer. 

Subscribe now and get a year’s subscription 

to either 1859 or 1889 for only $9.95! 

www.1859oregonmagazine.com/ontrak 

www.1889mag.com/ontrak 

Photo by Stephanie McKenna 

Send us a photo that represents 

your experience of the Pacific 

Northwest. You’ll have a chance 

to be published on the Exposure 

page of this magazine. 

Submit your photo to: 

www.ontrakmag.com/exposure 

www.ontrakmag.com 


www.ontrakmag.com

Alaska 

Awakening 

Just you and a few locals—Sitka deer, bears, moose, seals, sea otter 

pups, and migrating birds and whales. Peaks covered in snow. Budding 

forests. Northern lights and rainbows. Waterfalls rush, meltwaters flow, 

and calving glaciers send bergy bits on their merry way. For many, 

April and May is their favorite time of year. 

small ships, BIG adventures 

KAYAK l HIKE l SKIFF l CULTURE l WILDLIFE 

7-, 8- & 14-night adventure cruises • 22 to 90 guests • Apr-Sep 

888-862-8881 

UnCruise.com

Business 

12. Green Biz | 14. Q&A 

Angela Holm Photography 

Reduce, Reuse, Remove 

the Digital Divide 

Free Geek connects those in need with tech 

WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER 


www.ontrakmag.com

CAN A COMPUTER change your life? Portland-based 

nonprofit Free Geek thinks so. 

Consider the teenage girl who, upon finishing her volunteer 

work at Free Geek, burst into tears when she was 

handed her refurbished computer because it meant she 

would no longer have to research and write term papers on 

her smartphone. 

Started on Earth Day in 2000 by Oso Martin, Free Geek 

seeks to sustainably reuse technology and cut through the 

digital divide by providing technology and education to 

people who need it. Over the years, Free Geek has diverted 

1.5 million pounds of waste from landfills, granted more 

than 17,000 computers to nonprofits 

and community members, 

“At first the idea was just 

to provide free computers 

to those who needed them, 

but it’s grown and changed 

over time as we’ve realized 

there are those four legs 

on a stool that we need to 

have an impact on each 

one of those to truly bridge 

the digital divide.” 

— Daniel Bartholomew, 

Free Geek executive director 

and racked up nearly 1 million 

hours of volunteer service. 

Executive director Daniel Bartholomew 

said numbers, however, 

don’t tell the story. 

“We change lives,” Bartholomew 

said. “And we do that 

through technology refurbishment 

and recycling.” 

The Free Geek facility in Southeast 

Portland is 25,000 square 

feet, and chock full of forty-four 

staff members and between 100 

and 150 volunteers each day. 

Free Geek takes in anything 

electronic, other than appliances. 

The City of Portland, Multnomah 

County, Reed College and AWS 

Elemental, a software company 

based in Portland, donate all obsolete 

devices to Free Geek. Bartholomew 

hopes to connect with 

more corporate donors who can 

send their obsolete technology to Free Geek. 

Everything is taken into a caged, secure area for data removal 

or destruction. The devices are then either sent to 

downstream recyclers or taken to the reuse area, where volunteers 

take them apart and put them back together, testing 

each component and rebuilding them. Those computers are 

then either granted to a nonprofit or volunteer who has put 

in her time, or into the nonprofit’s store. Free Geek also operates 

online stores, including a wholesale distributor that 

other nonprofit refurbishers buy from to send older computers 

to foreign countries. 

Since its start in 2000, Free Geek has spread to eleven 

other locations around the United States, Canada and 

Norway. The locations are loosely affiliated, with Portland’s 

Free Geek providing policies, initial curriculum, and 

other assistance. 

People get rid of a lot of computers and other technology. 

Meanwhile, there are millions of people who don’t have 

the devices and can’t access the internet. “If you point those 

two problems at each other, you can solve that problem,” 

Bartholomew said. Bartholomew looks at Free Geek and its 

goal to bridge the digital divide as a four-legged stool. 

“At first the idea was just to provide free computers to 

those who needed them, but it’s grown and changed over 

time as we’ve realized there are those four legs on a stool 

that we need to have an impact on each one of those to truly 

bridge the digital divide.” 

First, a person must have a 

device—Free Geek refurbishes 

used technology and gives devices 

away or sells them at low 

cost. Second, that person must 

have access to the internet—Free 

Geek partners with Comcast to 

help families in need access wifi 

at a low cost. Third, the user 

needs tech support—Free Geek 

provides a year to those granted 

the devices and six months 

to anyone who buys one. And 

fourth, a user has to be educated 

on how to properly use the device—Free 

Geek offers hours of 

tech education each week, some 

in the facility and some out in 

the community, where the nonprofit 

provides childcare and 

food and teaches the curriculum 

in five languages. 

But Free Geek isn’t content to 

rest on its laurels. “If you’re not 

growing, you’re dying,” Bartholomew said. 

The next frontier for the nonprofit is rural Oregon, because 

39 percent of rural America is not digitally enabled. 

Free Geek is working with Agape Village, a tiny house village 

created with Portland Central Nazarene Church, to 

build some tiny trailers. These will be Mini Free Geeks 

placed in rural population centers around the state, where 

community leaders and nonprofits can teach refurbishment 

and repair and run other education programs. 

“You give people computers and mice and keyboards and 

they go off to John Day and the nearest PC repair could be 

three hours away,” Bartholomew said. “They could repair it 

themselves or if they had a facility in town that did that, 

they could bring it to that facility and have it repaired.” 


A SIT DOWN Q A 

Seattle: A City 

of Literature 

A brief chat with Stesha Brandon, 

who helped make that happen 

INTERVIEW BY JONATHAN SHIPLEY 

WHEN IT COMES to books, Seattle has it all. In Seattle 

sits one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. In Seattle 

are a slew of independent bookstores. Lindy West is 

in Seattle, giving lectures at Town Hall. The Bushwick Book 

Club is presenting a night of singers inspired by Octavia 

Butler. Kids are making graphic novels in an after-school 

class. A poet finished third during Seattle’s most recent 

mayoral race. Seattle has an interest in literature, publishing 

and other forms of written expression, and the United 

Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization 

(UNESCO) in 2017 took notice, designating Seattle a City 

of Literature and part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network. 

We sat down with Stesha Brandon, Seattle City of 

Literature’s board president, to discuss how it happened, 

what it means, and what’s next for Seattle. 

Misha Stone 

How did you find out that UNESCO 

awarded Seattle the designation? 

We found out with the public the day it 

happened! We kept refreshing the UN- 

ESCO website again and again until the 

press release appeared. Seattle is the 

second city in the United States so designated. 

Iowa City is the other. We’re 

now part of the Creative Cities Network, 

joining a group of twenty-eight 

international cities that includes places 

like Milan and Bucheon, Korea. 

What does it mean for Seattle? 

We now have access to a global network 

for cultural exchange. It will give 

us the opportunity to have relationships 

for cross-cultural and cross-disciplinary 

collaboration. … We had 

an indigenous writer exchange with 

Christchurch, New Zealand, for example. 

Seattle writers went to a festival 

there and a New Zealand writer of the 

Ngāi Tahu tribe came to Seattle to participate 

in literary events here. 

What’s next? 

We’re involved in equity training for 

the literary community. We’re involved 

with doing an economic impact study. 

And we’re eager to work with cities 

across the globe. 

How can a literary-minded person 

make the most of what Seattle has 

to offer? 

Stop by the library. It’s stunning. Follow 

seattlepoeticgrid.com, an online 

interactive project by Seattle’s first 

Civic Poet, Claudia Castro Luna. Go 

to a lecture. Go to a reading. If you’re 

in town in late October, take in Seattle 

Lit Crawl, where in one night there are 

dozens of readings in dozens of venues. 

If you’re in town in April, Independent 

Bookstore Day is a blast. Get 

a map and try to visit all of them in 

one day. 

What book are you reading now? 

Everything I can. 


www.ontrakmag.com

Culture 

16. Artist | 18. Musician 

19. Chef Spotlight | 20. Events 

Photos, from top: Tom Marks, MJ Alexander 

Artist 

Women in Residence 

Hedgebrook looks to nurture writers 

with its all-women residency program 

WRITTEN BY MICHELLE DEVONA 

Writers live in hand-built cottages on site. Nancy Nordhoff created the author retreat. 

WHEN SEATTLE PHILANTHROPIST Nancy Nordhoff 

bought an old farm on Whidbey Island in 1985, she intended 

to build a house and make a home for herself there. It was a 

turning point in her life, and Nordhoff sought a fresh start— 

the idyllic 48-acre farm, surrounded by forest, meadows, 

wildlife and views of the Puget Sound, seemed just the place. 

As she walked the grounds, however, she realized the property 

was too big for one person—it was meant to be shared. 

After talking it over with a friend of hers, they came up with 

an idea—invite female writers and make it a haven for women 

to find the solace and space needed to nurture their craft. 

“We looked at all the art that would lend itself well to this 

kind of environment in the country and we came out with 

writers,” Nordhoff said. “I think that the land is a palette for 

what women do here at Hedgebrook.” 

Nordhoff worked with a number of architects and artists 

to transform the land into a retreat, with quiet forested paths, 

a garden and six hand-built cottages. Each cottage, designed 

with a rustic post-and-beam frame, features a desk, small 

kitchen, bedroom loft and a wood stove. The only source of 

heat for the cottage, the wood stove symbolizes a sense of independence—the 

first fire is laid for the visitor, but then she’s 

on her own. “When we started thirty years ago, many women 

had never built a fire or lived in a cabin in the dark,” Nordhoff 

said. “That’s since changed a bit, but we do teach them how 

to build their own fire.” 

Hedgebrook now has around 

2,000 alumni, a majority of whom are 

women of color, an intentional focus, 

according to executive director and Hedgebrook 

alumna Amy Wheeler. “We need to hear from more 

women, and as we’ve grown into this global community, the 

emphasis now is what we have in the world because these writers 

have come here and had this time to produce their work,” 

Wheeler said. While the nonprofit organization offers a range 

of programs including master classes, a screenwriters lab and 

an annual women’s playwright festival, its core program is the 

Writers in Residence, which provides free room and board for 

selected applicants. Each writer gets her own cottage. 

During their stay, residents spend time writing, reading and 

walking through the woods. “There’s only one requirement 

for visitors,” Nordhoff said, “and that is to come to dinner every 

evening.” Held in a restored farmhouse, dinner consists 

of home-cooked meals with freshly plucked ingredients from 

the property’s garden. Dinner is the only time writers get together 

during their stay, and the women can talk about their 

writing and receive feedback, which Nordhoff believes is an 

important part of the process. “Hedgebrook creates this kind 

of unknown experience where you can feel safe and get deeper 

into your ideas,” Nordhoff said. “You can do things that you 

never knew you could do before. It opens up your whole heart 

and mind.” 


www.ontrakmag.com

McMinnville 

Eugene 

We handcraft Oregon Pinot Noir with 

passion and intention 

open daily 11 am - 5 pm 

ElizabethChambersCellar.com ~ 503-412-9765 

From Pinot Noir to Malbec, experience 

an outstanding collection of Oregon 

wines at Eugene’s original winery 

open daily 12-5 pm | SilvanRidge.com ~ 541-345-1945

Musician 

CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMING 

A Life From Art 

Dan Mangan and his 

“bummer jams” 

WRITTEN BY BEN SALMON 

Vanessa Heins 

NINE YEARS AGO, Dan Mangan didn’t quit his day job to 

become a musician. His day job quit him. 

The Vancouver, B.C.-based singer-songwriter was working 

at a restaurant that allowed him to leave for weeks at 

a time on tour, then return to steady shifts. Until one day, 

when his boss called him and told him, good-naturedly, not 

to bother coming back. 

Mangan hadn’t worked a shift in 

months. But he had released his acclaimed 

sophomore album—2009’s Nice, 

Nice, Very Nice—a few weeks earlier. 

“I feel like I would have held onto that 

job indefinitely if they hadn’t ‘quit’ me,” 

he said. “It was scary to all of a sudden 

try and support myself on music alone. 

It’s still scary to try to support my family 

on music today.” 

This fall, Mangan is releasing his 

fifth full-length, More or Less, via the 

prestigious Arts & Crafts record label. 

It’s a collection of what Mangan calls 

“bummer jams”—songs that are upbeat 

and catchy, but lyrically touch on topics 

that are dark or confusing. The frenetic 

lead single, “Troubled Mind,” expertly 

Scan to listen 

on Spotify 

captures our bewildering times, while songs like “Peaks & 

Valleys,” “Just Fear” and “Never Quiet” find Mangan exploring 

the balance between staying informed and maintaining 

sanity, often via a memorable melody and alongside a 

toe-tapping rhythm or warmly glowing synthesizer sound. 

“I like the idea of (these songs) provoking kitchen dance 

parties, giving people a minute to just let go,” said Mangan, 

who became a father of two boys in the past few years. “Also, 

I think music can convey what conversation fails to, and if 

someone can feel less alone because they hear a shared experience 

in a song, then we’re all better off for it.” 

Train Tracks 

| All available on Spotify 

Album Review 

“Road Regrets” from Nice, Nice, Very Nice 

This popular song from way back showcases Mangan’s ability to write a rousing ode to life on 

the road, where “coffee sweat” and someone else’s country songs become creature comforts. 

“Lynchpin” from More or Less (album officially released Nov. 2) 

Against an old-soul bass line and distant synth squiggle, Mangan sings of steep hills and walls 

caving in, but also resurrection. Every morning, he says, is “one more go at it.” 

“Vessel” from Club Meds 

On his adventurous 2015 album, Mangan set his songs to loops and synths and big beats and 

noisy horns. One of the highlights is the ‘80s-ish “Vessel,” which howls and pulses with life. 

“Cold in the Summer” from More or Less (album officially released Nov. 2) 

An irresistible chorus anchors this unhurried tune, one of the folksier tracks on Mangan’s new 

album. Here, he navigates the “quarter-life blues,” specifically losing touch with what’s cool. 

“Hang With Me” (Robyn cover) from Unmake 

Mangan’s got lots of great songs to appreciate, but it’s worth hearing his cover of Swedish pop 

star Robyn’s 2010 hit. The original’s a bubblegum electropop banger; Mangan turns it into a 

harrowing journey along the line between hope and heartbreak. 

Dan Mangan has spent the last few years absorbing all 

of the world’s amazing advances and terrifying developments, 

then processing them through music. His fine 

new album, More or Less, is sonically experimental and 

thematically earnest, with dusky ambient sounds and urgently 

strummed acoustic guitars sitting alongside astute 

observations, sighed melancholy and lots—lots—of uncertainty. 

On More or Less, Mangan doesn’t claim to have 

all the answers. But, as always, he sure does have a cozily 

gorgeous way of asking the questions. 


www.ontrakmag.com

Chef Spotlight 

Fine Dining 

and Wine Dining 

Jamie Guerin’s upscale 

take on Walla Walla 

WRITTEN BY CHAD WALSH 

JAMIE GUERIN WANDERED into the kitchen life. It was 

just a job that helped him get by while earning his economics 

degree. He started at the bottom and as he worked his way 

up, he decided a life running the burners was preferable to a 

life in academia. Eventually, he wandered west, to Seattle, and 

worked as a sous chef at Campagne, a fine-dining restaurant 

in Pike Place Market that has since shuttered. 

It was at Campagne that a friend in the industry first told 

him about Sonia and Carl Schmitt, a retired couple from the 

Bay Area who wanted to open a restaurant in the heart of 

Washington’s wine country. 

She told Guerin it would be perfect for him. “I’d never even 

been to Eastern Washington,” he recalled. “I told her, ‘Are you 

crazy? I’m not moving to Walla Walla, Washington!’” 

She wasn’t, and he did, once he realized that although the 

Schmitts were novice restaurateurs-to-be, they had built out 

a thoroughly modern kitchen to be housed in a remodeled 

mill they had saved from demolition. Their restaurant, The 

Whitehouse-Crawford, would be one of Walla Walla’s first 

fine-dining restaurants, right down to the white tablecloths. 

It also maintained some of Eastern Washington’s rugged 

street cred: About 80 percent of the restaurant’s vegetables 

are sourced from farms in a 5-mile radius of the restaurant. 

Guerin said it would’ve been crazy to say no. The Schmitts 

let him run the kitchen. They made him a partner. And the 

restaurant made a splash, drawing wine luminaries and tourists 

to its farm-to-fork meals. 

Sarah Koenigsberg 

Not much has changed with WHC’s mission, but a lot 

has changed with Guerin. The Schmitts have passed away, 

and two years ago he bought Walla Walla’s Brasserie Four 

from his friend and fellow chef, Hannah McDonald. That 

leaves him little time outside of doing the books and welcoming 

diners. 

But Guerin dreams of getting back to the burners. 

“What I love is when locals who don’t normally eat at 

restaurants like this come into The Whitehouse-Crawford 

for a special occasion,” he said. “The most satisfying thing 

is to help make memorable nights for them. We get a lot of 

wine people in here, but it’s as much or more fun to serve 

people who don’t get a chance to do this very often.” 

“What I love is when locals who don’t normally eat 

at restaurants like this come into The Whitehouse-Crawford 

for a special occasion. The most satisfying thing is to help 

make memorable nights for them.” 

— Jamie Guerin 


Oregon 

EVENTS CALENDAR 

West Coast Giant Pumpkin Regatta 

Tualatin Lake of the Commons 

October 20 

Free 

tualatinoregon.gov/pumpkinregatta 

Let’s just say this event is pretty fun to watch. Imagine dozens of giant, 

hollowed-out pumpkins with people inside rowing them across Tualatin 

Lake dressed in costume. There are plenty of other activities worth 

checking out, such as the 5K run, pumpkin bowling and pumpkin golf. 

Portland 

CORN MAIZE 

The Pumpkin Patch, Sauvie 

Island 

Through October 31 

$6 

portlandmaize.com 

The Portland Maize is a fall 

family favorite and only fifteen 

minutes from town on Sauvie 

Island. Visitors love the animal 

barn, farm fresh market and patio 

cafe. Don’t forget to pick your 

perfect pumpkin while you’re 

there, too. 

HOWLOWEEN AT THE ZOO 

Oregon Zoo 

October 28-29 

$13-$18 

oregonzoo.org 

Head over to the zoo for some 

trick-or-treating or take part in 

the scavenger hunt and learn 

about the wildlife around the 

park. All events are themed to be 

educational and fun for visitors, 

so come dressed in costume and 

get ready to learn something 

new. 

THE NORTHWEST FOOD & 

WINE FESTIVAL 

Oregon Convention Center 

November 10 

$75 

nwwinefestival.com 

This is the premier Pacific 

Northwest food and wine event, 

with more than fifty of the best 

restaurants coming out to show 

off their culinary talents. There 

will also be 600+ wines on 

display, ready to taste and pair 

with your gourmet bites. 

WINE COUNTRY 

THANKSGIVING 

Willamette Valley 

November 24-26 

Prices vary 

willamettewines.com/event/ 

wine-country-thanksgiving 

Celebrate Thanksgiving in 

Oregon wine country with more 

than 150 wineries throughout 

the Willamette Valley. Wineries 

will offer special tastings, 

food pairings, music, holiday 

discounts and more. 

Scott Marx 

ZOOLIGHTS 

Oregon Zoo 

November 24-January 7 

$13-18 

oregonzoo.org 

Nearly one million lights turn the 

zoo into a winter wonderland. 

This holiday event combines 

thousands of lights, hundreds 

of musical groups, a ride on 

the zoo train, costumed animal 

characters and seasonal culinary 

treats. 

CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL OF 

LIGHTS 

The Grotto 

Nov 28-December 30 

$6-$12 

thegrotto.org/christmas-festivalof-lights 

The Grotto in Portland comes 

alive during the holiday season 

with an annual light display. 

Admire the garden at night by 

walking the paths, grab a cup 

of hot chocolate and be sure 

to catch one of the evening 

concerts in the chapel while 

you’re there. 

HOLIDAY ALE FESTIVAL 

Pioneer Courthouse Square 

November 28-December 2 

$TBD 

holidayale.com 

The Holiday Ale Festival takes 

place in the heart of downtown 

Portland, in Pioneer Square. This 

evening event might be a little 

chilly but well worth a trip. Cozy 

up to the heaters under the tent 

and take in the city lights with 

the region’s largest decorated 

Christmas tree as the backdrop. 

There will be food vendors, craft 

booths and a root beer garden 

for minors. Many of the beers 

available for tasting are special 

releases just for the event. 

CHRISTMAS SHIP PARADE 

Willamette/Columbia River 

December 1-21 

Free 

christmasships.org 

Various yacht clubs and local 

individuals in the area participate 

in this fun holiday tradition 

by decorating their boats 

and parading them down the 

Columbia and Willamette rivers. 

Check the schedule for dates 

since the parade does not run 

every day. 

Salem 

STAYTON GHOST TOUR & 

CHOCOLATE WALK 

Brown House Event Center, 

Stayton 

October 27 

$5 donation 

brownhouse.org/events 

Take a journey through the 

history of Stayton with a 

downtown guided tour. Hear 

spooky stories about the town 

and taste some great chocolates 

along the way. 

OLD FASHION CHRISTMAS 

Oregon State Fairgrounds 


$5 

centraloregonshows.com 

This classic holiday event 

features antiques, arts and crafts, 

food vendors, live entertainment 

and areas to view classic 

holiday movies. There will be a 

candyland maze to Santa for the 

kids and much more. 

SALEM ON ICE 

Riverfront Park 

November 17-January 20 

$12-15 

salemonice.com 

The Salem outdoor ice 

rink, located in the heart of 

downtown Salem at Riverfront 

Park, opens for its annual winter 

season on November 17 with 

skating and treats. 

HOLIDAYS AT THE CAPITOL 

The State Capitol 

November 27- December 21 

Free 

oregoncapitol.com 

The 37th Annual Holidays at 

the Capitol will run Monday 

through Saturday, with a detailed 

performance schedule available 

online. The building will also be 

open to view the holiday lights 

and train from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. 

Albany 

CHRISTMAS PARLOUR TOUR 

December 9 

$15 

albanyvisitors.com/christmashouse 

The Albany Christmas Parlour 

Tour will run from 2 p.m. to 7 

p.m. on the second Sunday in 

December. Guests will enjoy a 

ride in a horse-drawn carriage 

through downtown Albany and 

have the opportunity to tour 

eight homes expertly decorated 

for the holidays, along with some 

historic downtown buildings. 

Eugene 

COLONIAL HARVEST DAYS 

Northern Lights Christmas 

Tree Farm 

October 2-30 

$7-10 

northernlightschristmastreefarm. 

com 

The Northern Lights Christmas 

Tree Farm offers a special fall 

experience in celebration of the 

harvest season. Visitors can take 

a tractor hayride to the pumpkin 

patch, visit the animal farm, 

participate in or watch the pieeating 

contest. There will also 

be live music, crafts, fall flower 

bouquets and treats to enjoy. 

COFFIN RACES 

Shelton McMurphey Blvd. 

October 27 

$25-35 

eugene-or.gov/3922/Coffin- 

Races 

Eugene’s fun Halloween-themed 

soapbox derby starts on 

Shelton McMurphey Boulevard. 

Teams can sign up as families, 

businesses and friend groups to 

compete in the race. All teams 

must have coffin-inspired cars 

with functional brakes and 

steering to race. Registration is 

open through October 19. 


www.ontrakmag.com

TAKE A BEHIND-THE-SCENES WINERY TOUR! 

Join us for a Private Tour & Tasting complete with 

stories and exclusive wine offerings. $20 per person 

includes tour, tasting and cheese pairings. 

Call 503-588-9463 to reserve your spot. 

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 6 PM | FRIDAYS UNTIL 8 PM 

Wine Tasting | Food Pairings Menu | Daily Winery Tours | Wine Dinners 

WillametteValleyVineyards.com 

8800 Enchanted Way SE · Turner, OR · 503-588-9463 · info@wvv.com 

Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower 

Eat. 

Drink. 

Be dazzled. 

See Albany 

Discover Oregon 

Fabulous cuisine, 

artisanal brews, 

historic districts, 

and family fun. 

Tel: 541-928-0911 

www.albanyvisitors.com 

110 3rd Ave SE 

Albany, OR 97321

Washington 


Downtown Bellingham Partnership 

Commercial Street Night Market 

1310 Commercial Street 

December 21 

Free 

bellingham.org 

The Commercial Street Night Market is a monthly event with its final 

2018 market happening on December 21. Artisan and food vendors line 

the streets with local live music playing in the background. It’s a fantastic 

way to experience Bellingham at night. 

Vancouver 

PUMPKIN LANE 

Pomeroy Farm 

October 6 -28 

$6 

pomeroyfarm.org 

Head out to Pomeroy Farm for 

a great fall family event that 

takes place each Saturday and 

Sunday through October 28. The 

festival highlight is the mile-long 

hayride, along with the animal 

farm, pumpkin patch and hay 

bale maze. The farm even offers 

tours of the historic log house on 

the property this year. 

LANTERN TOUR 

Fort Vancouver National 

Historic Site 

October 20-March 23 

$10-25 

nps.gov/fova 

This outdoor ranger-led evening 

will take visitors through the 

barracks of Fort Vancouver. 

Tours begin at the stockade 

at 6:45 p.m., but make sure to 

call 360-816-6244 in advance 

because reservations are 

required. 


CHRISTMAS AT THE FORT 

Fort Vancouver National 

Historic Site 

December 8 

$5 

visitvancouverusa.com 

Go back in time to 1840 and 

experience the holiday season at 

Fort Vancouver. Try out wreathmaking 

while you’re there and 

enjoy some holiday beverages 

while listening to the sound of 

the carolers. 

Olympia 

OLYMPIA TOY RUN 

South Sound Center Sears 

December 1 

$10 or new unwrapped toy 

olytoyrun.com 

Join motorcycle riders from all 

over Olympia for a very good 

cause—to make sure that all 

children receive a Christmas 

gift this year. Just bring one new 

unwrapped gift to enter. The 

motorcycle parade will start 

at 1 p.m. at the South Sound 

Sears parking lot. All toys and 

proceeds will go to The Salvation 

Army for distribution to children 

in need through the Toy n’ Joy 

Shop. 

Tacoma 

TACOMA ZOO BOO 

Port Defiance Zoo & Aquarium 

October 13-14 

Free-$15.95 

pdza.org/event/zoo-boo 

Children will enjoy treats, watch 

animals have fun with pumpkins 

and play games at the Tacoma 

Zoo Boo. Make sure to wear 

costumes to get a discount on 

admission to Point Defiance Zoo. 

TACOMA HOLIDAY SALE 

Tacoma Dome 

October 18-21 

Free-$15.50 

holidaygiftshows.com 

The Tacoma Holiday Sale is a 

four-day event with more than 

550 booths filled with arts 

and crafts, specialty foods, 

antiques and collectables, live 

entertainment each day and 

Santa photos. 

TACOMA TREE LIGHTING 

Pantages Theater 

November 24 

Free 

traveltacoma.com 

The 73rd Tacoma Tree Lighting 

features music from holiday 

carolers and opportunities to get 

your picture taken with Santa. 

JINGLE BELL RUN 

Wright Park 

December 24 

$10 

metroparkstacoma.org/jingle 

Come out for the final race of 

2018 in the Tacoma Run the 

Parks series at Wright Park. 

Run or walk 3 miles at the Jingle 

Bell Run or participate in the 5K. 

Costumes are encouraged and 

strollers and leashed dogs are 

also welcome. 

Seattle 

SEATTLE RESTAURANT WEEK 

Various locations 

October 21-November 8 

Prices vary 

dinearoundseattle.org 

More than 165 restaurants in the 

Seattle area will offer great deals 

on special three-course meals for 

dinner and some lunches, during 

Seattle’s Restaurant Week. This 

event does not include Fridays 

and Saturdays—be sure to check 

the website for a current list of 

participating locations. 

RUN SCARED RACE 

Seward Park 

October 28 

$35-45 

runscared5k.com 

This Halloween-style dash starts 

at Seward Park and gives runners 

the chance to participate in a 

10K or 5K run or a 4K walk on 

a traffic-free course along Lake 

Washington. The theme of this 

year’s costume attire is retro and 

you can pick from any decade. 

There will also be a kids’ dash, 

costume contests for people and 

dogs, and a treasure hunt. 

DAY OF THE DEAD 

CELEBRATION 

Armory Seattle Center 

October 27-28 

Free 

diademuertosenseattle.org 

Based on the Latin American 

Día de los Muertos, the Day 

of the Dead Festival includes a 

procession of dancers, music 

and folk dancers, face painting 

and traditional snacks. 

MACY’S DAY PARADE 

Downtown Seattle 

November 23 

Free 

seattle-downtown.com/events 

The annual Macy’s Day Parade 

and tree lighting is the perfect 

way to kick off the holiday 

season. See marching bands, 

costumed characters, floats and 

Santa Claus. The parade starts 

at 9 a.m. on the corner of 7th 

Avenue and Pine Street. 

SEATTLE MARATHON 

Near Seattle Center 

November 25 

$115-145 

seattlemarathon.org 

Burn off those Thanksgiving 

calories and join more than 

15,000 runners in the annual 

Seattle Marathon and Half 

Marathon. Finishers receive a 

commemorative shirt and can 

enjoy some downtime in the 

victory recovery area. Bonus–this 

year’s course is much flatter 

than last year. 

Edmonds 

EDMONDS TREE LIGHTING 

CEREMONY 

5th Avenue North and Bell 

Street 

November 24 

Free 

edmondswa.com/events/treelighting 

A favorite Edmonds tradition 

with holiday snacks and cider, 

live music and caroling. The 

festivities begin at 3:30 p.m. 

with free refreshments in the 

Centennial Plaza and ends with 

photos with Santa. 

www.ontrakmag.com

Vancouver, BC 


Canyon Lights 

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park 

November 22-January 27, 2019 

C$14.95-46.95 

capbridge.com 

This iconic event celebrates the holiday season with hundreds of 

thousands of lights strung throughout the park. The park remains 

open until 9 p.m. so revelers can see the lights twinkle from the 

suspension bridge, Cliffwalk, the rainforest and the canyon. Treetops 

Adventure—a series of seven suspension bridges attached to giant 

Douglas firs—will be lit up, making them “the eight tallest Christmas 

trees in the world!” 

TITANIC: THE ARTIFACT 

EXHIBITION 

Lipont Place 

Through January 11, 2019 

C$17.95 for adults 

titanicvancouver.com 

Go beyond Leo and Kate and see 

this educational exhibit about 

the famed ship. The exhibit is 

focused primarily on the human 

stories of those who were on 

the Titanic’s ill-fated voyage in 

1912, and uses authentic artifacts 

recovered from the wreck site, as 

well as room re-creations, to tell 

those stories. 

JAY-Z AND BEYONCE - OTR II 

BC Place 

October 2 

C$76-530 

bcplace.com 

The president and first lady of 

pop and rap music only have 

one show in Canada, and it’s 

in Vancouver. It’s the couple’s 

second co-headlining tour and 

this is the penultimate show on 

the tour, so don’t miss out. 

VANCOUVER HALLOWEEN 

PARADE & EXPO 2018 

Robson Square 

October 5-7 

Free 

vanhalloween.com 

This three-day festival, now in 

its fifth year, is devoted to art, 

cosplay, comics, games and 

more. The parade is described 

as the “world’s largest cosplay 

stage,” and as a family-friendly 

event there are no gory costumes 

allowed. Some events are 

ticketed. 

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL 

IMPROV FESTIVAL 

Multiple venues 

October 9-13 

C$8+ 

vancouverimprovfest.com 

Need a laugh? Vancouver 

International Improv Fest has you 

covered with almost a full week 

of improv acts from all over the 

world. In the past, the festival 

has featured an opening-night 

showcase spectacular that 

costs just C$8. Bonus: You can 

improve your improv chops with 

workshops from the performers. 

VANCOUVER SYMPHONY 

ORCHESTRA: 80S REWIND 

Orpheum Theatre 

Oct 12-13 

C$25-115 

vancouversymphony.ca 

Channel your inner 80s babe— 

shoulder pads and all—at this 

symphony event featuring 

musical arrangements of 80s 

music from George Michael 

to Tears for Fears. The event 

will also include John Williams 

soundtracks, Robert Palmer and 

Michael Jackson, among others. 

DIWALI FEST 

Roundhouse Community Center 

October 27 

Free 

diwalifest.ca 

This year will mark the fifteenth 

year celebrating Diwali, the 

festival of lights, in downtown 

Vancouver. The event features 

music and dance performances 

from local artists and an 

opportunity to help create a 

room-sized mosaic artwork. 

DANCESPORT BC SNOWBALL 

CLASSIC 

Sheraton Vancouver Airport 

Hotel 

October 27-28 

C$30-80 

snowballclassic.com 

Even if you have no rhythm, 

this event will inspire you. For 

the thirtieth year, this dance 

competition will prove that dance 

is both an art and a sport. This 

year’s competition will feature 

international Open Standard 

and Latin championships among 

internationally ranked dancers 

from around the world. Other 

new events this year will include 

teacher-student events and 

junior/juvenile rising star events. 

EASTSIDE CULTURE CRAWL 



Free 

culturecrawl.ca 

More than 30,000 visitors flock 

to the east side of Vancouver for 

this four-day visual design, arts 

and crafts festival. More than 

500 artists open their studios in 

eighty buildings around the area. 

Art fans should not miss this 

opportunity. 

FRASER VALLEY BALD EAGLE 

FEST 

Harrison Mills 


Free 

fraservalleybaldeaglefestival.ca 

Get in touch with your wild 

side at the Fraser Valley Bald 

Eagle Festival, a two-day, free 

celebration of all things bald 

eagle. Head out on the trails for 

eagle spotting and nature walks. 

HOPSCOTCH FESTIVAL 



C$30+ 

hopscotchfestival.com 

If you’re a lover of beer, cocktails 

and spirits, you’re going to want 

to check out the Hopscotch 

Festival, which features more 

than 130 vendors offering 

tastings of all types of drinks. The 

star of the weeklong event is the 

Grand Tasting Hall, but there are 

ticketed events around town the 

rest of the week. 

HERITAGE CHRISTMAS 

Burnaby Village Museum 

November 24-January 4, 2019 

Free 

burnabyvillagemuseum.ca 

Step back in time with a trip to 

the Burnaby Village Museum, 

which during the holiday 

season offers vintage Christmas 

displays, performances, choirs 

and decorations. Visitors can 

create their own holiday light 

shows with lights that change 

colors depending on sound. 

VANCOUVER HISTORIC HALF 

Stanley Park 

November 25 

C$45-65 

tryevents.ca 

Combine stellar views with some 

cardio at the Vancouver Historic 

Half Marathon along Stanley 

Park’s seawall. The seawall, 

which loops around the park, is 

a popular path for joggers, and 

on November 25 it will be the 

site of this half marathon, 10K 

or 5K. Vancouver Historic Half 

Marathon. 

DUNDARAVE FESTIVAL OF 

LIGHTS 

Dundarave Beach 

December 1-22 

Free 

dundaravefestival.com 

Remember the true spirit of this 

holiday season at the Dundarave 

Festival of Lights. Held annually 

on Dundarave Beach, this festival 

features free Saturday concerts 

through the month of December. 

The festival’s Forest of Miracles 

features hundreds of trees 

sponsored and decorated by 

the community—with proceeds 

going to end homelessness. 

ROYAL WINNIPEG BALLET 

NUTCRACKER 

Queen Elizabeth Theatre 

December 7-9 

C$25-115 

balletbc.com 

Get in the Christmas spirit with 

The Nutcracker, the beloved twoact 

Tchaikovsky ballet. The Royal 

Winnipeg Ballet is Canada’s 

oldest ballet company and one 

of the premier companies in the 

world. Grab your sugar plum 

fairies and get ready for fun. 


Outdoors 

24. Athlete | 26. Notes from the Adventure 

Flying High 

Ultimate player Rohre 

Titcomb sees a bright 

future for the sport 

INTERVIEW BY SHEILA G. MILLER 

ROHRE W.B. TITCOMB 

Age: 30 

Hometown: Seattle 

Notable achievements: 

Co-owner, Five Ultimate 

and Seattle Cascades of the 

American Ultimate Disc 

League; Former national 

team member and captain; 

Current member, Seattle Riot 


Rohre Titcomb throws a disc at 

the 2015 World Championships 

of Beach Ultimate in Dubai. 

Get Horizontal 

SINCE ROHRE TITCOMB started 

playing Ultimate when she was in elementary 

school, the sport’s landscape has 

changed (not least because it’s dropped 

the “frisbee” from its original name, ultimate 

frisbee). If she has her way, it will 

continue to evolve—in a positive way. 

Titcomb, 30, is a co-owner of the Seattle 

Cascades, one of the teams in the 

American Ultimate Disc League, a professional 

league with twenty-three teams 

around the country. The league has been 

around since 2012. 

Ultimate is a fast-paced, non-contact 

sport with seven players on each team 

and an 80-yard field with 20-yard end 

zones. A team advances its disc from one 

end zone to the other, much like football. 

The difference? You can’t run with the 

disc, and instead you have to pass it until 

you score or lose possession. 

Titcomb and her four siblings bought 

the Cascades three years ago. Titcomb 

said the league is traditionally made up 

entirely of male players, but this year the 

Cascades are leading the way to change 

that. At all levels other than the professional 

league, playing on mixed teams is 

very common. 

“My siblings and I wanted to get involved, 

we wanted to bring some different 

perspectives to what the league could 

be,” Titcomb said. “Part of that is expanding 

to not have only a single gender play.” 

This year, the team has three women 

on its open roster, including Titcomb’s 

sister, Qxhna. 

The siblings also started an Ultimate 

apparel company in 2006, called Five 

Ultimate, and own a disc company 

called ARIA. 

Titcombe started playing Ultimate 

as a kid at Seattle Country Day School. 

Eventually, all five siblings were on 

the team, and Titcomb’s father volunteered. 

“He kind of brought us all 

along, and we started playing together 

in the school program.” 

In 2010 she began playing for the Seattle 

Riot, a women’s Ultimate club she 

captained for four years. The team won 

the world championships in 2014. Today 

she serves as its coach. 

It’s the community and the sport’s 

inclusivity that have kept her coming 

back. “There’s not that kind of same dynamic 

that exists in other team sports,” 

she said. “There are some girls sports 

stuff that’s really catty and nasty, and 

I’ve not found that to be the case in 

Ultimate, partly because of the type of 

people who are drawn to play.” 

Ultimate is built on an environment 

of responsibility and cooperation. The 

sport is almost entirely self-refereed. 

“That teaches players at a young age 

the value of direct communication 

and the importance of resolving your 

own conflicts, of upholding your own 

standards of morality,” she said. “I think 

that’s really important and I feel like it 

had a bit of influence on who I am as 

a person.” It’s also an equalizer. “This 

sport is not just all athleticism,” she 

said. “There are a lot of different body 

types and athletic abilities that can be 

valuable in different ways.” 

She noted Ultimate may eventually be 

an Olympic sport—it was recognized as 

a sport by the International Olympic 

Committee a few years ago, though it’s 

not been named as a demonstration 

sport for the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo. 

“I hope that will be in our future, and 

I hope that will be a competition format 

that will allow for both men and women 

to participate,” she said. “I would love 

for Ultimate to set an example of what 

sports can be like, as a sport that is inclusive 

and has a values system. … It’s a 

big, high-falutin goal but as a society, as 

a whole world, we could stand to have 

a strong moral compass, and I would 

love to see the sports community have 

that more than it does today. I think 

Ultimate has the opportunity to provide 

that, and make it part of the sports 

narrative, where right now it isn’t. We’re 

definitely at the ground level trying to 

make that happen.” 


Notes from the Adventure 

TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN 

THE BEST COAST HIKES 

in Oregon You’ve Never Heard Of 

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ADAM SAWYER 

THE LURE OF the Oregon Coast and the Coastal Range is 

strong for hikers. But even if you get out regularly, there are 

probably a number of stellar paths you haven’t discovered 

yet. And despite the recent influx of humanity into the state, 

there’s still plenty of solitude to be found. At the very least, 

there are places that don’t require you to go on a weekday 

morning in winter to obtain it. Here are just a few. 

Step Creek/Gales Creek Loop 

Hidden just inside the northeastern fringe of the Tillamook 

State Forest, the Step Creek/Gales Creek Loop is 

barely in the Coast Range. But it is, and not only are the 

hiking paths that branch out from Reehers Camp lightly 

used, they showcase how well a forest can rebound from 

trauma—perhaps a helpful reminder for those still reeling 

from last summer’s cavalcade of wildfires. 

In 2017, the Forest Service put the finishing touches 

on a loop of the Step Creek Trail. Connected to the 

Gales Creek Trail, the 7.5-mile excursion explores some 

of the lushest, moss-covered, oxalis-carpeted, fern-filled 

forest in Tillamook County. It’s a verdant oasis, despite 

the decimation of last century’s Tillamook Burn. As an 

added bonus, the 2.4-mile Triple C Loop, located across 

the street from Reehers Camp, is thematically congruent 

and even visits some impressive old-growth. Check 

with the Forest Service or drop by the Tillamook Forest 

Center for updated information on the recently rerouted 

trail system. 

The Knoll/God’s Thumb 

The sweeping vistas and dramatic beauty provided 

by the Knoll and God’s Thumb have been enjoyed by 

Lincoln City locals for generations. With views of the 

Coast Range, Devil’s Lake and the Pacific Ocean, the 

Knoll’s open meadow is picnic paradise on a clear afternoon. 

A short hike away, God’s Thumb is an imposing 

basalt feature that, for those not afraid of heights 

or exposure, affords even better views of the coastline, 

including Cascade Head. In 2012, Lincoln City 

purchased a chunk of land, then acquired an easement 

in 2016 that allows unfettered access to both 

geologic features. 

There are a few loops or out-and-back options that 

range anywhere from 3 to 7 miles. Check with the Lincoln 

City Visitor & Convention Bureau for exact, turnby-turn 

directions as the hike isn’t seamless, with some 

questionable junctions and stretches of gravel or service 

road to negotiate. But the payoff for your trouble is almost 

embarrassing overcompensation. 


www.ontrakmag.com

The South Slough National 

Estuarine Research Reserve 

The phrases “under the radar” and “hidden 

gem” are overused and often inaccurate. That 

is not the case with what locals simply call the 

“South Slough.” A mix of trails visits a wildly diverse 

landscape with eye-widening scenery and 

surprises around every corner. 

There are a handful of trailheads located around 

the reserve just south of Charleston, but perhaps 

the best sampling is a roughly 3-mile loop that 

starts from the interpretive center. In that short 

distance, you’ll descend a dense forest path, walk 

along a boardwalk that serpentines through an 

open, waterfowl-laden marshland, and head back 

up to the trailhead through stoic stands of spruce 

and creek-carved ravines. 

The reserve’s website and 

interpretive center have all 

the information and maps 

you’ll need. 

The Frances Shrader 

Old Growth Trail 

The farther down the 

coast you go, the less traveled 

the trails become. Once 

south of Coos Bay, you 

When 

You Go 

From the Amtrak 

Cascades line, 

you can access 

the Oregon 

Coast by bus. 

The NorthWest 

POINT runs 

from Portland 

to the northern 

Oregon Coast. 

oregon-point.com 

won’t drive through a town with more than 5,000 

residents until you get to Brookings, near the border 

of California. This 100-mile stretch is a treasure 

trove of coastal beauty and exceptional, rarely 

traveled hiking paths. Just outside Gold Beach and 

inside the borders of the Rogue River-Siskiyou National 

Forest is a gleaming example—the Frances 

Shrader Old Growth Trail. 

Accessible old-growth forests close to the coast 

can be hard to come by. This interpretive 1.5-mile 

path, which loops through some of the largest 

hardwoods and oldest Douglas firs anywhere in 

the Northwest, is one of the best options you’ll 

find. Perhaps due in large part to its remoteness, 

this gently graded, lushly forested piece of hiking 

heaven remains a quiet sanctuary. Check the Forest 

Service website for more information. 

FROM TOP The Step Creek/Gales Creek Loop, South Slough National 

Estuarine Research Reserve, and Frances Shrader Old Growth Trail. 


Weekender 

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND 

The Timbers Army celebrates during 

a game at Providence Park this year. 

Traveling Teams 

Taking the train to watch 

Cascadia Cup games 

WRITTEN BY VALERIE ESTELLE ROGERS 

Portland Timbers/Craig Mitchelldyer 

WHEN I ROOT, I root for the … insert team here. 

It could be the singing that makes soccer great, or the 

hugs and high fives with strangers surrounding you when 

your team scores, the scarves held high or flipped with 

your wrist into the air in unison to the same chant, the 

fireworks or green smoke. For me, it starts with the chill 

that runs down my spine during the national anthem, every 

time. I look around at 21,000 fans, all adorned in my 

team’s colors, standing and hoisting our scarf to the tempo 

and then shouting our team name at the end of our county’s 

song. On the field, the two teams are accompanied 

by young soccer players, usually from elementary school, 

standing with their local heroes—their little hands holding 

players’ hands. Adrenaline is pumping and excitement fills 

the air. I am committed to the cause for the next ninety 

minutes, and bonded with others by a need to passionately 

support our team. 

The Portland Timbers, Seattle Sounders and the Vancouver 

Whitecaps are the three Major League Soccer teams of 

the Pacific Northwest. The season begins in March, and 

playoffs end in December. I will vouch that true fans do 

not plan their annual calendars until the season schedule is 

released in January, sometimes making those seem like the 

longest few weeks of the year. 

The highly organized fan groups for these teams—the 

Timbers Army, the Emerald City Supporters and the Vancouver 

Southsiders—all have the same goal each year: to 

raise the MLS Championship Cup. There is, however, 

an underlying quest that affords joyous celebration and 

bragging rights, the other highly sought trophy—The 

Cascadia Cup. The Cascadia Cup was created in 2004 by 

the teams’ supporter groups to identify the best 

of the Northwest. The team with the most points 

collected after all matches between the Timbers, 


www.ontrakmag.com

November 2-4, 2018 

Featuring the beauty of the chrysanthemum, 25 amazing floral 

artists will create stunning displays for the public at the Ninth 

Moon Floral Design Showcase in partnership with the Floral 

Design Institute at Portland, Oregon’s Lan Su Chinese Garden. 

Throughout the remaining month, see more than 1,000 potted 

chrysanthemums arranged in the beauty of Lan Su Chinese 

Garden as part of 

. Featuring dozens of varieties 

and cultivars, 

is your opportunity to savor the 

beauty of these most significant of Chinese plants. 

PRESENTED BY 

Portland 

Flower 

Market 

The Lucky Dragon 

Carlie Beck & Dylan Christiansen 

Photograph courtesy 

Jeff Day Photography

EAT 

PORTLAND 

Uno Mas Taquiza 

unomastaquiza.com 

Justa Pasta 

justapasta.com 

Kask 

bistroagnes.com/kask 

Paymaster Lounge 

paymasterlounge.com 

SEATTLE 

Merchants Cafe and Saloon 

merchantscafeandsaloon.com 

Smith Tower 

smithtower.com 

MBar 

mbarseattle.com 

Le Panier 

lepanier.com 

VANCOUVER, BC 

Finches 

finchteahouse.com 

Tacofino 

tacofino.com 

Revolver 

revolvercoffee.ca 

STAY 

PORTLAND 

Northwest Portland Hostel 

nwportlandhostel.com 

Bob Frid/Vancouver Whitecaps FC 

Portland Timbers/Sam Ortega 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Vancouver Whitecaps, shown here playing the Seattle Sounders in 2017, vie with Seattle and the 

Portland Timbers for the Cascadia Cup. The Sounders play games at CenturyLink Field. Timbers Army assembles for games at 

Providence Park. 

Seattle Sounders FC/Jane Gershovich 

SEATTLE 

American Hotel 

americanhotelseattle.com/en-us 

VANCOUVER, BC 

Vancouver Central 

hihostels.ca 

PLAY 

PORTLAND 

Providence Park 

providenceparkpdx.com 

SEATTLE 

CenturyLink Field 

centurylinkfield.com 

VANCOUVER, BC 

BC Place 

bcplace.com 

Sounders and Whitecaps wins. Since 

2004, Vancouver has won six times, Seattle 

four times and Portland four times 

and holding the trophy from last year’s 

win. The battle for the Cascadia Cup is 

currently underway for 2018. 

With an average of 1,500 fans making 

the journey along the corridor to these 

rival matches, my preferred way to travel 

is to skip the traffic jams and go by rail. 

Taking the Amtrak Cascades to the Cascadia 

games is effortless, and hundreds of 

fans agree. Wifi capability, power outlets 

and the opportunity to rest before and 

after the game, in addition to the lounge 

car for locally sourced food and beverages, 

have provided me with all of the 

amenities I could need. I have also stored 

luggage at the station while attending a 

game, since each stadium has baggage 

restrictions, and have found that using 

public transportation in each city was 

fast and inexpensive. 

If soccer weren’t enough, the views 

from the train are often spectacular. With 

the match over and my team scarf rolled 

up under my neck, I hum along with the 

train over the tracks, looking out at the 

miles and miles of trees, inlet waters and 

the Pacific Ocean. 

It could be the singing that makes being 

a soccer fan great, or it could the that 

I am lucky enough to follow a team in the 

gorgeous Pacific Northwest. 


www.ontrakmag.com

Savor 

Local Flavor 

2 Pints of IPA + 2 Beer Glasses 

+ Tap Trail Map + More = $30 

(with any room reservation) 

Bed & Brew 

Package 

804 10 th St Bellingham WA 360.756.1005 thechrysalisinn.com 

Reserve 

your 

Winter Stay 

today! 

NE 85th and Sandy Boulevard in Portland, Oregon . thegrotto.org

Weekender 

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND 

Unexpected Everett 

The Seattle suburb has 

undiscovered gems all its own 


Everett is an industrial hub on the Puget Sound. 

ONE OF THE GREAT joys of a big city can be leaving it. 

By extension, it’s nice to discover the many smaller cities 

around a population center, interesting in their own right. 

Everett is one of those places—just 45 minutes north of 

Seattle, this waterfront city of a little more than 100,000 

was incorporated in 1893, the same year the Great Northern 

Railway came to town. Townspeople hoped the railroad 

would stop in Everett, but the company chose to 

continue it on to Seattle. And that’s how Everett grew to 

be an industrial center in Seattle’s backyard. 

Today the city has much to offer, including a 

booming port and waterfront rebirth and a growing 

arts scene. 

If you’re interested in getting outside, Everett Community 

College has a small Japanese garden on campus 

that is well kept. Likewise, Evergreen Arboretum & Gardens 

is an oasis of trees and other plants surrounding a 

quiet park. 

Then head to the heart of downtown. Hewitt Avenue is 

Everett’s first major street, and features a national historic 

district with dozens of brick buildings adorned with odd, 

decorative cornices and old painted advertisements. 

A tour of the charming downtown is not complete 

without a stop at the Schack Art Center. Admission is 

free, and the center abounds with interesting exhibits. 

Take a class, then stay to watch glass-blowing happening 

live on the premises. 

Café Wylde is just across the street and perfect for a 

healthy snack—flavorful, vegetarian fare including smoothies 

and juices, noodles and tacos. 

If you’re traveling with children, the Imagine Children’s 

Museum is just steps away and has fantastic hands-on exhibits 

to encourage free play for kids ages one to twelve. An 

indoor tree house, all kinds of vehicles, a water play area 

… this place is a sensory jungle for kids. On a clear day, 

head to the roof, which has a large play area with musical 


www.ontrakmag.com

EAT 

Scuttlebutt Brewing 

scuttlebuttbrewing.com 

Café Wylde 

cafewylde.com 

Anthony’s Homeport 

anthonys.com 

Lombardi’s Italian 

lombardisitalian.com 

STAY 

Inn at Port Gardner 

innatportgardner.com 

Delta Hotels Seattle Everett 

marriott.com 

PLAY 

Schack Art Center 

schack.org 

Imagine Children’s Museum 

imaginecm.org 

Future of Flight 

Aviation Center 

futureofflight.org 

FROM TOP The Future of Flight Aviation 

Center offers tours of Boeing 

facilities. The Schack Art Center has 

glass-blowing classes. 

instruments built in that will keep children exploring until 

they’re exhausted. 

The Inn at Port Gardner is the perfect place to rest after 

a busy day. The only waterfront hotel in Everett, the Inn 

has all the amenities of a luxury hotel and offers something 

most don’t—free in-room breakfast. The Inn is also walking 

distance from two good restaurants—Anthony’s Homeport 

Everett, which serves fresh seafood, and Lombardi’s Italian, 

a bustling spot with a long happy hour. 

Everett is, above all, a place of industry. It has the largest 

public marina on the West Coast, which is home to a naval 

base and a redevelopment project that will add housing, 

restaurants and retail to the area. 

Scuttlebutt Brewing is in the heart of this marina, and 

carries a sports bar vibe. The fish and chips are great, as are 

the locally brewed beers. 

More notable than the marina, though, is Boeing’s commercial 

airplane manufacturing facility. The company produces 

its 747, 767, 777 and 787 Dreamliners in a giant warehouse 

in southwest Everett. 

The Future of Flight Aviation Center and tour is ninety minutes 

of pure astonishment—at the power of industry and the 

sheer size of things we can build. The $25 tour starts with a 

short promotional video. Visitors then board coach buses and 

tour the facilities. Of note: the building where these airplanes 

are made is the world’s largest building by volume. Airplanes, 

in various states of production, are being worked on as you 

ride freight elevators, walk through cavernous basement tunnels 

and gawk from platforms high above the manufacturing 

floor. Tour guides (lucky if you get the mutton-chopped 

Christopher) are knowledgeable and explain in detail how the 

manufacturing process has developed over the years. 

At the end of the tour, take a quick elevator ride to the 

center’s rooftop, the Strato Deck, to see just how vast 

Boeing’s footprint is here. Even non-aviation nerds will 

be humbled. 


THE PNW 

GIFT 

GUIDE 

WRITTEN BY ONTRAK STAFF 

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMILY GREEN 


www.ontrakmag.com

IT’S THAT TIME 

of year—when we start 

searching for the perfect holiday 

gifts. We scoured Oregon and 

Washington for the best locally 

made goods that will please 

everyone in your life. 

DRINK UP 

1. EASTSIDE DISTILLING 

REDNECK RIVIERA WHISKEY 

$24.95 // www.eastsidedistilling.com 

2. KIRIKO FABRIC COASTERS 

$35 // www.kirikomade.com 

3. UPHILL DESIGNS BAILEY FLASK 

$35 // www.uphilldesigns.com 

4. FOLK BRONZE BOTTLE OPENER 

$34 // www.folkbuilt.com 


EXPLORE 


www.ontrakmag.com

1. THE CAMPOUT COOKBOOK 

$19.95 // www.powells.com 

2. BELMONT BLANKET CO. 

HELLAGOOD BLANKET 

$110 // www.belmontblanket.com 

3. RIME ELEMENTS CASCADIA BEANIES 

$42 // www.rimeelements.com 

4. CAIRN ORIGINAL SUBSCRIPTION BOX 

$29.95/month // www.getcairn.com 

5. FEATHERED FRIENDS OSPREY 

30 YF SLEEPING BAG 

$379 // www.featheredfriends.com 


AT HOME 


www.ontrakmag.com

1. GLASS EYE STUDIO CLASSIC ORNAMENTS 

$25.99 // www.glasseye.com 

2. TIM + APRIL MOUNT RAINIER 

TOPOGRAPHIC ART PRINT 

$24 // www.timplusapril.com 

3. THE JOINERY HEX CANDLE HOLDERS 

$23 each // www.thejoinery.com 

4. ANTICA FARMACISTA PROSECCO RED 

HOLIDAY COLLECTION DIFFUSER 

$66 // www.anticafarmacista.com 


FOR HER 


www.ontrakmag.com

1. EUNI + CO HEY GIRL HEY CARD SET 

$8 // www.euniandco.com 

2. HANDMADE LA CONNER 

SUPERB LIP BALMS 

$6 each // www.handmadelaconner.com 

3. HARLOW MIDNIGHT JUNIPER 

CRYSTAL AND GOLD PYRITE BRACELET 

$40 // www.jewelrybyharlow.com 

4. HARLOW 17 MINT 

CHALCEDONY DROPS NECKLACE 


5. HARLOW 2 LAYER GOLD 

CRYSTAL NECKLACE 


6. FRANKIE & COCO WEST DOPP KIT 

$46 // www.frankieandcocopdx.com 

7. WILD ROSE BATH SALT SAMPLER SET 

$19.95 // www.wildroseherbs.com 


FOR HIM 


www.ontrakmag.com

1. PORTLAND RAZOR CO. EXECUTIVE 

SHAVE ESSENTIALS KIT 

$60 // www.portlandrazorco.com 

2. MINNIE + GEORGE 

FOR PORTLAND RAZOR CO. DOPP KIT 

$120 // www.portlandrazorco.com 

3. OTTER WAX SOLID SPRUCE COLOGNE 

$29.95 // www.otterwax.com 

4. GROVEMADE LEATHER 

COMPACT BIFOLD WALLET 

$99 // www.grovemade.com 

5. J. LEAVITT SUPPLY CO. 

DELANO DOPP KIT 

$140 // www.jleavittsupplyco.com 

6. STEEL TOE STUDIOS CUSTOM 

COORDINATES BRONZE BUCKLE AND BELT 

$152 // www.steeltoestudios.com 


GET COOKING 


www.ontrakmag.com

1. WOODINVILLE WHISKEY 

BARREL-AGED MAPLE SYRUP 

$19.95 // www.woodinvillewhiskeyco.com 

2. HOVDEN HEMP/ORGANIC 

COTTON KITCHEN TOWEL 

$25 // www.hovdenformalfarmwear.com 

3. PORTLAND FARMERS 

MARKET COOKBOOK 

$27.95 // www.powells.com 

4. GIRL MEETS DIRT 

SPOON PRESERVES 

$12 each // www.girlmeetsdirt.com 

5. WOLF CERAMICS SERVING BOWL 

$190 // www.wolfceramics.com 

6. STUMPTOWN COFFEE 

ROASTERS BLEND TRIO 

$35 // www.stumptowncoffee.com 

7. BENGSTON WOODWORKS 

SMALL CUTTING BOARD 

$60 // www.bengstonwoodworks.com 

8. MISSIONARY CHOCOLATES 

5-PIECE CUSTOM TRUFFLE BOX 

$17 // www.missionarychocolates.com 

9. HOLM MADE TOFFEE CO. 

OREGON HAZELNUT TOFFEE 

$6.25 each // www.holmmadetoffee.com 


VANCOU 

[ ON THE CHEAP ] 

FINDING DEALS IN THE BIG CITY 


SO YOU SEEK a booming metropolis that combines walkable 

neighborhoods with tons of culture and dining experiences from 

dim sum to bistro? Vancouver, BC, is calling. Our neighbor to the 

north has it all—just one problem. This city can be a bit spendy. 

OnTrak searched high and low for ways to access all Vancouver 

has to offer, without the high prices. Note: All prices 

are in Canadian dollars unless otherwise specified. 


www.ontrakmag.com

VER 

Vancouver’s water views 

are stunning and plentiful. 


[ CITY OF CULTURE ] 

First, the basics—the city is a peninsula bordered 

on the south by the Fraser River, to the 

north and west by the Strait of Georgia. Distinct 

neighborhoods in the city provide a lifetime 

of exploration. But if you want to get the 

best out of the city, you’ll want to use public 

transit or alternative transportation to move 

throughout Vancouver. 

If you’ve got good weather and are feeling up 

for it, grab a bike. Vancouver is on the bike-share 

bandwagon. Mobi bike stations around the city 

are a very convenient short-term commute—24 

hours of unlimited 30-minute rides for $9.75. 

Any longer on the bike at a given time and you’re 

charged an extra fee. Bike stations are located 

in dozens of spots between Stanley Park to the 

north, 16th Street to the south, Arbutus Street to 

the west and Commercial Street to the east. 

Should you prefer public transit, you’re in 

luck—Pacific Central Station, where the Amtrak 

Cascades train arrives, connects to the Expo Line 

of the SkyTrain, which makes stops all over the 

greater Vancouver area. 

I’ll note, however, Vancouver is a walkable city, 

with many of its highlights in the downtown core. 

So if you’re really hoping to keep things low-cost, 

just hoof it. 

If museums are your thing, Vancouver has you 

covered. Best part? Many of the museums have 

discounted days. The HR MacMillan Space Centre, 

the Vancouver Maritime Museum and the 

Museum of Vancouver are all in Vanier Park. 

While they’re not exactly cheap, the museums 

do offer a discount to visit two or three of them. 

The Vanier Park Explore Pass is $41 for adult 

admission to all three museums over a multiday 

period. For just the Museum of Vancouver 

and the Space Centre, you’ll be set back $30 

per adult. 

By many accounts, the best museum in the 

entire city is the University of British Columbia’s 

Museum of Anthropology. The museum has 

a huge collection of First Nations artifacts and 

crafts. From 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. every Thursday, admission 

is discounted to $10. 

The Vancouver Art Gallery, which has a large 

collection of BC-based artists and is one of the 

largest art galleries in all of Canada, has no 

admission fee on Tuesdays from 5 p.m. to 

9 p.m.—just a request for a donation. 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT 

The Vancouver Maritime 

Museum is the perfect place 

to learn about this peninsula’s 

history. UBC’s Museum 

of Anthropology has many 

First Nations’ artifacts. Vancouver 

Art Gallery is free on 

Tuesday nights. 


www.ontrakmag.com

Rui Nunes 

David Campion 


FROM LEFT Mobi rents bikes for 

use around town. Bao Bei has a $40 

tasting menu of delicious foods. 

[ THE GREAT OUTDOORS ] 

Getting outdoors is easy (and often, free) in and around 

Vancouver. Swing through Stanley Park, which is nearly 

1,000 acres and has trails, beaches and other amenities. The 

Stanley Park Seawall, which has space for walkers, joggers 

and cyclists, shares beautiful views of the water and is part 

of the world’s longest uninterrupted waterfront path running 

through Vancouver. 

Looking to get your cardio in? Head to Grouse Mountain 

in North Vancouver to complete the Grouse Grind, a nearly 

2-mile hike up the side of the mountain. You’ll gain 2,800 

feet. That ought to get the blood flowing. 

Another beautiful spot is Lighthouse Park in West Vancouver. 

This is a great place for hikes with great views. And 

finish quenching your outdoor adventure thirst with a trip to 

Lynn Canyon Park. This spot, in North Vancouver, is chock 

full of waterfalls, hiking trails and swimming holes. It also 

has a suspension bridge 50 meters off the ground over deep 

pools and waterfalls below. The best part? It’s completely free. 

All this trekking around is going to make you hungry. Fear 

not—many of the very nice restaurants in Vancouver have 

happy hours or prix fixe menus to help you get a taste of the 

city’s culinary treasures without having to pawn treasures to 

pay for it. 

For a late-night (or really, anytime) snack, head to Gringo 

in Gastown. The taco bar has $3.95 beers, margaritas (priced 

on whether you want what they describe as crappy or “OK” 

tequila) and so many tacos—three for $8 or six for $15. Enjoy 

the atmosphere and take the edge off. 

Fun fact—happy hours weren’t legal in Vancouver until 2014. 

Since then, the city has more than made up for it. In Gastown, 

Pidgin and Wildebeest are two popular restaurants—with great 

happy hours. Pidgin’s is a bit more generous timewise—5 p.m. 

to 6:30 p.m. and then 10:30 p.m. to close—but Wildebeest’s, 

while short (5 p.m. to 6 p.m.) has beer specials for $5 and wine 

for $8, plus snacks and full plates that range from $3 to $12. 

If you’re looking to sample a variety of cultural foods while 

you’re in Vancouver, that’s easily done. Bao Bei, in Chinatown, 

has tasty shareable plates and a $40 tasting menu. Dinesty 

Dumpling House has a “Super Wednesday” special of beef 

noodle soup and pan-fried pork pot stickers for $10.95. Try 

some Indian eats at Vij’s, which has a rooftop bar that has a 3 

p.m. to 5 p.m. happy hour. Or, if you’ve got time and are willing 

to travel a short distance, swing through the Richmond 

Night Market, to the south of Vancouver and open from May 

through October 8. The Night Market, a primarily cash-only 

spot open Friday through Sunday, has more than 100 food 

vendors. It costs $4.25 to get in, and then you can buy tastes 

of all types of Asian food. 


www.ontrakmag.com

[ MANY OF THE VERY NICE 

RESTAURANTS IN VANCOUVER 

HAVE HAPPY HOURS OR PRIX FIXE 

MENUS TO HELP YOU GET A TASTE 

OF THE CITY’S CULINARY TREASURES 

WITHOUT HAVING TO PAWN 

TREASURES TO PAY FOR IT ] 

Peter Bagi 


FALL 2018 | 51

Side panels of retired pinball games decorate the 

walls of the Seattle Pinball Museum. Owner Cindy 

Martin said oftentimes, with the games all lined up 

next to each other, you aren’t able to see the great 

art on the side panels, and she was happy to find a 

way for some of them to be on display. 

PINBALL 

WIZARDS 

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGHAN NOLT 

PART ART and part fun, the Seattle Pinball Museum is 

preserving these mostly bygone machines for generations 

to come. The museum opened in August 2010. For $15, you 

can play dozens of pinball machines, some dating back 

to 1960. The museum’s collection also includes vintage 

machines on display. Grab an old-timey soda or a craft beer 

and head back in time to your days as a pinball wizard. 




54 | FALL 2018

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT 

D. Gottlieb & Co. released Western-themed Buckaroo in 1965. 

Lyn Cason, right, watches Chris Aquino play the Sopranos pinball 

game, released in 2005, in which players work their way up in the 

crew ranks by completing various tasks. The designer used many of 

the actual actors’ voices to create a more authentic experience. 

This 1992 Creature From the Black Lagoon game features an ornamental 

ball shooter, a special modification added by the owners. 

In addition to the playable games on the floor, others can be found 

around the museum on display. Screwy was produced by Bally 

Manufacturing Co. in 1932. 


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT 

A visitor plays one of the fifty-eight 

games on display in the museum. 

The playable games, dating from 

1960 to 2018, are sequenced from 

oldest to newest, and the owners 

regularly rotate in new games to 

keep things fresh. 

Many collectors consider Buckaroo 

one of the top five D. Gottlieb & Co. 

pinball games ever produced. 

The popular 1990 pinball game 

FunHouse, by Williams Electronics 

Games, Inc., features Rudy, a plastic 

head that conceals a kick-out hole 

behind its mouth. 

The museum owners’ golden 

retriever, Cash, comes to work with 

them most days. 


www.ontrakmag.com

www.ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play 

Oregon Guide 

EUGENE 

Belly Taquería 

$$, Mexican 

69 FEET FROM STATION 

541.683.5896 

eatbelly.com 

The Bier Stein 

$$, American, Pub 

0.9 MILES FROM STATION 

541.485.2437 

thebierstein.com 

Marché 

$$, French 


541.342.3612 

marcherestaurant.com 

McMenamins High Street 

Brewery & Café 

$$, Brewpub 


541.345.4905 

mcmenamins.com 

Oregon Electric Station 

$$$, Steakhouse, Italian, 

Seafood 


541.485.4444 

oesrestaurant.com 

Sushi Pure 

$$, Sushi 


541.654.0608 

sushipureeugene.com 

Tacovore 

$$, Mexican 


541.735.3518 

tacovorepnw.com 

WildCraft Cider Works 

$$, New American 


541.735.3506 

wildcraftciderworks.com 

ALBANY 

Calapooia Brewing 

$$, Brewpub 


541.928.1931 

calapooiabrewing.com 

Frankie’s Restaurant 

$$, American, Steakhouse 


541.248.3671 

frankies-oregon.com 

Sybaris Bistro 

$$$, New American 


541.928.8157 

sybarisbistro.com 

SALEM 

ACME Cafe 

$$, American 


503.798.4736 

acmecafe.net 

The Bier Stein, Eugene, Oregon 

Christos Pizzeria & Lounge 

$$, Pizza 


503.371.2892 

christospizzasalem.com 

Gamberetti’s Italian 

Restaurant 

$$, Italian 


503.399.7446 

gamberettis.com 

Wild Pear 

$$, Cafe 


503.378.7515 

wildpearcatering.com 

OUR PICK 

Willamette Valley 

Vineyards 

Turner 

$$, Winery 


503.588.9463 

wvv.com 

OREGON CITY 

Adelsheim Vineyard 

Newberg 

$$$, Winery 

29 MILES FROM STATION 

503.538.3652 

adelsheim.com 

ArborBrook Vineyards 

Newberg 

$$, Winery 


503.538.0959 

arborbrookwines.com 

Cana’s Feast Winery 

$$, Winery 

Carlton 


503.852.0002 

canasfeastwinery.com 

Oregon City Brewing Co. 

$$, Brewpub 


503.908.1948 

ocbeerco.com 

R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar 

$$, Wine 

McMinnville 


866.472.8614 

rstuartandco.com 

PORTLAND 

Caffe Mingo 

$$, Italian 


503.226.4646 

caffemingonw.com 

Chennai Masala 

Hillsboro 

$$, Indian 


503.531.9500 

chennaimasala.net 

Decarli 

Beaverton 

$$, Italian 


503.641.3223 

decarlirestaurant.com 

OUR PICK 

Elephant’s Delicatessen 

$$, Deli 

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS 

elephantsdeli.com 

Garden Bar 

$$, Vegetarian 


gardenbarpdx.com 

Gloria’s Secret Café 

Beaverton 

$$, Latin American 


503.268.2124 

Imperial Restaurant 

$$, American 


503.228.7222 

imperialpdx.com 

Justa Pasta 

$$, Italian, Pasta Shop 

1 MILE FROM STATION 

503.243.2249 

justapasta.com 

Kask 

$$, Bar, American 


503.241.7163 

bistroagnes.com/kask 

Laurelhurst Market 

$$$, Steakhouse 


503.206.3097 

laurelhurstmarket.com 

Le Bouchon 

$$$, French 


503.248.2193 

bouchon-portland.com 

Oven and Shaker 

$$, Pizza, Italian 


503.241.1600 

ovenandshaker.com 

The Palm Court 

$$$, American 


503.228.2000 

bensonhotel.com 

The Parish 

$$, Seafood, Southern 


503.227.2421 

theparishpdx.com 

Paymaster Lounge 

$, Lounge 


503.943.2780 

paymasterlounge.com 

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 

$$$, Steakhouse 


503.221.4518 

ruthschris.com 

Serratto Restaurant & Bar 

$$, Italian, Mediterranean, 

Modern European 


503.221.1195 

serratto.com 

Syun Izakaya 

Hillsboro 

$$, Japanese 


503.640.3131 

syun-izakaya.com 

Uno Mas Taquiza 

$, Mexican 


503.719.4768 

unomastaquiza.com 


www.ontrakmag.com


Guide 

EUGENE 

Best Western New 

Oregon Motel 


541.683.3669 

book.bestwestern.com 

C’est La Vie Inn 


541.302.3014 

cestlavieinn.com 

Courtyard Eugene Springfield 


541.726.2121 

marriott.com 

Excelsior Inn 


541.342.6963 

excelsiorinn.com 

Hilton 


541.342.2000 

hilton.com 

Holiday Inn Express 

& Suites 


541.342.1243 

ihg.com 

Oval Door Bed & 

Breakfast Inn 


541.683.3160 

ovaldoor.com 

Tim LaBarge 

Phoenix Inn Suites 


541.344.0001 

phoenixinn.com 

Valley River Inn 


541.743.1000 

valleyriverinn.com 

ALBANY 

Best Western Plus 

Prairie Inn 


541.928.5050 


Comfort Suites 


541.928.2053 

comfortsuites.com 

Phoenix Inn Suites 


541.926.5696 

phoenixinn.com 

SALEM 

OUR PICK 

The Grand Hotel 


503.540.7800 

grandhotelsalem.com 

Hampton Inn & Suites 


503.362.1300 

hamptoninn3.hilton.com 

Red Lion 


503.370.7888 

redlion.com 

OREGON CITY 


Rivershore Hotel 


503.655.7141 


Grand Hotel at Bridgeport 

Tigard 


503.968.5757 

grandhotelbridgeport.com 

Lakeshore Inn 

Lake Oswego 


503.636.9679 

thelakeshoreinn.com 

PORTLAND 

Ace Hotel 


503.228.2277 

acehotel.com 

The Benson, a Coast Hotel 


503.228.2000 

coasthotels.com 

Caravan: The Tiny 

House Hotel 


503.288.5225 

tinyhousehotel.com 

Embassy Suites Portland - 

Washington Square 

Tigard 


503.644.4400 

portlandembassysuites.com 

Friendly Bike Guest House 


503.799.2615 

friendlybikeguesthouse.com 

Hotel Eastlund 


503.235.2100 

hoteleastlund.com 

Hotel Modera 


877.484.1084 

hotelmodera.com 

Inn @ Northrup Station 


503.224.0543 

northrupstation.com 

Jupiter Hotel 


503.230.9200 

jupiterhotel.com 

McMenamins Edgefield 

Troutdale 


503.669.8610 


McMenamins Grand Lodge 

Forest Grove 


503.992.9533 


The Nines 


877.229.9995 

thenines.com 

Northwest Portland Hostel 


503.241.2783 

nwportlandhostel.com 

Resort at the Mountain 

Mt. Hood Village 


503.622.3101 

theresort.com 

River’s Edge Hotel & Spa 


503.802.5800 

riversedgehotel.com 

Shift Vacation Rentals 


503.208.2581 

shiftvacationrentals.com 

Tierra Soul Urban Farm & 

Guesthouse 


503.489.7645 

tierrasoulpdx.com 

Timberline Lodge 

Timberline 


800.547.1406 

timberlinelodge.com 

OUR PICK 

The Westin 


503.294.9000 

westinportland.com 

Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel, Portland, Oregon 

www.ontrakmag.com Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides: jenny@statehoodmedia.com 



EUGENE 

Bijou Metro 


541.686.3229 

bijou-cinemas.com 

Cascades Raptor Center 


541.485.1320 

eraptors.org 

Heritage Dry Goods 


541.393.6710 

heritagedrygoods.com 

OUR PICK 

Hult Center for the 

Performing Arts 


541.682.5087 

hultcenter.org 

Museum of Natural 

& Cultural History 


541.346.3024 

natural-history.uoregon.edu 

Oakway Center 


541.485.4711 

oakwaycenter.com 

ALBANY 

Albany Antique Mall 


541.704.0109 

albanyantiquemall.com 

Gallery Calapooia 


503.971.5701 

gallerycalapooia.com 

Oregon Coast Aquarium 

Newport 


541.867.3474 

aquarium.org 

SALEM 

Evergreen Aviation 

& Space Museum 

+ Waterpark 

McMinnville 

24.3 MILES FROM 

STATION 

503.434.4185 

evergreenmuseum.org 

Gilbert House Children’s 

Museum 


503.371.3631 

acgilbert.org 

Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, Portland, Oregon 

Historic Elsinore Theatre 


503.375.3574 

elsinoretheatre.com 

Salem Center 


503.399.9676 

salemcenter.com 

OREGON CITY 

Bridgeport Village 

Tigard 


503.968.1704 

bridgeport-village.com 

Clackamas Repertory 

Theater 


503.594.6047 

clackamasrep.org 

OUR PICK 

End of the Oregon Trail 


503.657.9336 

historicoregoncity.org 

PORTLAND 

Arlene Schnitzer 

Concert Hall 


503.248.4335 

portland5.com 

Bella Casa 


503.222.5337 

bellacasa.net 

Bonnet 


503.954.2271 

shop.bonnetboutique.com 

Boys Fort 


503.567.1015 

boysfort.com 

Ellington Handbags 


503.542.3149 

ellingtonhandbags.com 

Garnish Apparel 


503.954.2292 

garnishapparel.com 

McMenamins 

Crystal Ballroom 


503.225.0047 


Mt. Hood Meadows 

Ski Resort 

Mt. Hood 


503.337.2222 

skihood.com 

Oregon Museum 

of Science and Industry 


503.797.4000 

omsi.edu 

Oregon Zoo 


503.226.1561 

oregonzoo.org 

Physical Element 


503.224.5425 

physicalelement.com 

Pittock Mansion 


503.823.3623 

pittockmansion.org 

Portland Art Museum 


503.226.2811 

portlandartmuseum.org 

Providence Park 


503.553.5400 

providenceparkpdx.com 

Rachelle M. Rustic House 

of Fashion 


971.319.6934 

rachellem.com 

Rice Northwest Museum 

of Rocks & Minerals 

Hillsboro 


503.647.2418 

ricenorthwestmuseum.org 

Twist 


503.224.0334 

twistonline.com 

US Outdoor Store 


503.223.5937 

usoutdoor.com 


www.ontrakmag.com


Guide 

Washington Guide 

The Office 842, Longview, Washington 

KELSO/LONGVIEW 

The Office 842 

$$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas 


360.442.4647 

theoffice842.com 

CENTRALIA 

McMenamins Olympic 

Club Pub 

$$, Brewpub 


360.736.5164 


OLYMPIA/LACEY 

Farrelli’s Pizza 

$$, Italian 


360.493.2090 

farrellispizza.com 

Fish Tale Brew Pub 

$$, Brewpub 


360.943.3650 

fishbrewing.com 

Hop Jacks 

$$, American 


360.528.2174 

hopjacks.net 

TACOMA 

Asado 

$$$, Argentine 


253.272.7770 

asadotacoma.com 

Odd Otter Brewery 

$, Brewery 


253.327.1680 

oddotterbrewing.com 

Pacific Grill 

$$, American, Seafood 


253.627.3535 

pacificgrilltacoma.com 

TUKWILA 

Miyabi Sushi 

$$, Japanese 


206.575.6815 

miyabisushi.com 

SEATTLE 

Assaggio Ristorante 

$$$, Italian 


206.441.1399 

assaggioseattle.com 

Eastside Bar & Grill 

$$, American 

Bellevue 


425.455.9444 


Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails 

$$, American, Breakfast 


206.971.8015 

frolik.motifseattle.com 

John Howie Steak 

$$$$, American, Steakhouse 

Bellevue 


425.440.0880 

johnhowiesteak.com 

Le Panier 

$, Bakery, Sandwiches 


206.441.3669 

lepanier.com 

Little Water Cantina 

$$, Mexican 


206.397.4940 

littlewatercantina.com 

Loulay Kitchen & Bar 

$$, French, Breakfast 


206.402.4588 

thechefinthehat.com 

OUR PICK 

MBar 

$$$, Cocktails, American 


206.457.8287 

mbarseattle.com 

Merchants Cafe and Saloon 

$$, Bar, Café 


206.467.5070 

merchantscafeandsaloon.com 

Pine Box 

$$, Brewpub 


206.588.0375 

pineboxbar.com 

Revel 

$$, Asian Fusion, Korean 


206.547.2040 

revelseattle.com 

Seastar Restaurant 

& Raw Bar 

$$$, American, Seafood 

Bellevue 


425.456.0010 

seastarrestaurant.com 

Sharps Roasthouse 

$$, American, BBQ 

SeaTac 


206.241.5744 

sharpsroasthouse.com 

Smith Tower 

$$, Bar, Café 


206.624.0414 

smithtower.com 

TanakaSan 

$$, Asian Fusion 


206.812.8412 

tanakasanseattle.com 

Westward 

$$, Mediterranean, 

Breakfast, American 


206.552.8215 

westwardseattle.com 

EDMONDS 

Arnies Restaurant 

$$, Seafood 


425.771.5688 

arniesrestaurant.com 

EVERETT 

Anthony’s HomePort 

$$, Seafood 


425.252.3333 

anthonys.com 

Café Wylde 

$$, Café, Juice Bar, Smoothies 


425.374.3877 

cafewylde.com 

Lombardi’s Italian 

$$, Italian 


425.252.1886 

lombardisitalian.com 

OUR PICK 

Scuttlebutt Brewing 

$$, American, Brewery 


425.257.9316 

scuttlebuttbrewing.com 

STANWOOD 

Stanwood Grill 

$$, American 


360.629.5253 

stanwoodgrill.com 

MOUNT VERNON 

Skagit River Brewery 

$$, Brewpub 


360.336.2884 

skagitbrew.com 

BELLINGHAM 

Colophon Café 

$$, Café, Salad, Sandwiches 


360.647.0092 

colophoncafe.com 

Leaf & Ladle 

$$, Soup, Sandwiches 


360.319.9718 

facebook.com/leafandladle 

Magdalena’s Creperie 

$$, Breakfast, Brunch, Desserts 


360.483.8569 

magdalenascreperie.com 





Monticello Hotel 


360.425.9900 

themonticello.net 

CENTRALIA 

Centralia Square Hotel 


360.807.1212 

centraliasquare.com 

McMenamins—Olympic 

Club Hotel & Theater 


360.736.5164 


OLYMPIA/LACEY 

The Governor, a Coast 

Hotel 


360.352.7700 


Little Creek Casino Resort 


STATION 

800.667.7711 

little-creek.com 

Red Lion Hotel 


360.943.4000 

redlion.com 

TACOMA 

Hotel Murano 


253.238.8000 

hotelmuranotacoma.com 

Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma 

Waterfront 


253.272.1300 

silvercloud.com 

TUKWILA 

Cedarbrook Lodge 

SeaTac 


206.901.9268 

cedarbrooklodge.com 

Springhill Suites 

Renton 


425.226.4100 

marriott.com 

SEATTLE 

Alexis Hotel 


206.624.4844 

alexishotel.com 

Hotel Monaco, Seattle, Washington 

American Hotel 


206.622.5443 

americanhotelseattle.com 

Belltown Inn 


206.529.3700 

belltown-inn.com 

Coast Bellevue Hotel 

Bellevue 


425.455.9444 


Coast Gateway Hotel 

SeaTac 


206.248.8200 


Greenlake Guest House 


206.729.8700 

greenlakeguesthouse.com 

Hotel 1000 


206.957.1000 

hotel1000seattle.com 

Hotel Monaco 


206.621.1770 

monaco-seattle.com 

OUR PICK 

Grand Hyatt 

Seattle 


206.774.1234 

seattle.grand.hyatt.com 

Inn at the Market 


206.448.0631 

innatthemarket.com 

The Maxwell Hotel 


206.286.0629 

themaxwellhotel.com 

The Moore Hotel 


206.448.4851 

moorehotel.com 

The Paramount Hotel 


206.292.9500 

paramounthotelseattle.com 

Seattle Sheraton 


206.621.9000 

sheratonseattle.com 

Sorrento Hotel 


206.622.6400 

hotelsorrento.com 

EDMONDS 


Edmonds Harbor Inn 


425.771.5021 


Coast Wenatchee 

Center Hotel 

Wenatchee 


509.662.1234 


Courtyard by Marriott 

Seattle North 


425.670.0500 

marriott.com 

EVERETT 

Holiday Inn Downtown 

Everett 


425.339.2000 

ihg.com 

OUR PICK 

Inn at Port Gardner 


425.252.6779 

innatportgardner.com 

STANWOOD 

Cedar Bluff Cottage 


360.445.3333 

cedarbluffcottage.com 

Hotel Stanwood 


360.629.2888 

stanwoodhotelsaloon.com 

MOUNT VERNON 

Best Western Plus Skagit 

Valley Inn 


360.428.5678 


Tulip Inn 


800.599.5696 

tulipinn.net 

BELLINGHAM 

The Chrysalis Inn & Spa 


360.756.1005 

thechrysalisinn.com 

Fairhaven Village Inn 


360.733.1311 

fairhavenvillageinn.com 

Hotel Bellwether 


360.392.3100 

hotelbellwether.com 


www.ontrakmag.com


Guide 

VANCOUVER 

Kiggins Theatre 


360.816.0352 

kigginstheatre.net 


Cowlitz County Tourism - 

Visit Mount St. Helens 

360.577.3137 

visitmtsthelens.com 

Kelso Theater Pub 


360.414.9451 

ktpub.com 

CENTRALIA 

Centralia Factory Outlets 


360.736.3327 

centraliafactoryoutlet.com 

Centralia Fox Theatre 


360.623.1103 

centraliafoxtheatre.com 

OLYMPIA/LACEY 

Capitol Tours 


360.902.8880 

des.wa.gov 

Little Creek Casino Resort 

Shelton 


STATION 

800.667.7711 

little-creek.com 

Washington State History 

Museum 


253.272.3500 

washingtonhistory.org 

TUKWILA 

Museum of Flight 


206.764.5720 

museumofflight.org 

SEATTLE 

Bellevue Arts Museum 

Bellevue 


STATION 

425.519.0770 

bellevuearts.org 

CenturyLink Field 


206.381.7848 

centurylinkfield.com 

Museum of History and 

Industry 


206.324.1126 

mohai.org 

Neptune Theatre 


206.682.1414 

stgpresents.org 

Northwest Outdoor Center 


206.281.9694 

nwoc.com 

Olympic Sculpture Park 


206.654.3100 

seattleartmuseum.org 

Pike Place Market 


pikeplacemarket.org 

Seattle Aquarium 


206.386.4300 

seattleaquarium.org 

Seattle Art Museum 


206.654.3100 

seattleartmuseum.org 

OUR PICK 

Woodland Park Zoo 


206.548.2500 

zoo.org 

EDMONDS 

Cascadia Art Museum 


425.336.4809 

cascadiaartmuseum.org 

Edmonds Center 

for the Arts 


425.275.4485 

edmondscenterforthearts.com 

Visit Edmonds 


1.877.775.6935 

visitedmonds.com 

EVERETT 

OUR PICK 

Future of Flight Aviation 

Center & Boeing Tour 

Mukilteo 


1.800.464.1476 

futureofflight.org 

Imagine Children’s 

Museum 


425.258.1006 

imaginecm.org 

Schack Art Center 


425.259.5050 

schack.org 

XFINITY Arena at Everett 


425.322.2600 

xfinityarenaeverett.com 

STANWOOD 

Stanwood Cinemas 


360.629.0514 

farawayentertainment.com 

MOUNT VERNON 

Downtown Mount Vernon 

360.336.3801 

mountvernondowntown.org 

Lincoln Theatre 


360.336.8955 

lincolntheatre.org 

BELLINGHAM 

Bellingham Railway 

Museum 


360.393.7540 

bellinghamrailway 

museum.org 

Mount Baker Theatre 


360.734.6080 

mountbakertheatre.com 

Whatcom Museum 


360.778.8930 

whatcommuseum.org 

Rhythm & Rye 


360.705.0760 

facebook.com/rhythmandrye 

Lincoln Theatre, Mount Vernon, Washington 

TACOMA 

LeMay—America’s Car 

Museum 


253.779.8490 

americascarmuseum.org 

Museum of Glass 


253.284.4750 

museumofglass.org 

Point Defiance Zoo 

& Aquarium 


253.591.5337 

pdza.org 

Tacoma Art Museum 


253.272.4258 

tacomaartmuseum.org 

Damian Vines 




Vancouver Guide 

Blue Water Cafe, Vancouver, BC 

Ask for Luigi 

$$, Italian 

1.4 KM FROM STATION 

604.428.2544 

askforluigi.com 

Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie 

$$$, Chinese 

850 METERS FROM STA- 

TION 

604.688.0876 

bao-bei.ca 

Blue Water Cafe 

$$, Seafood 


604.688.8078 

bluewatercafe.net 

Boulevard Kitchen 

& Oyster Bar 

$$$, Seafood, Steakhouse 


604.642.2900 

boulevardvancouver.ca 

Café at John Henry’s 

$$, American 

115 KM FROM STATION 

604.883.2336 

johnhenrysresortmarina.com 


OUR PICK 

Chambar 

$$$, Belgian, Breakfast 


604.879.7119 

chambar.com 

Cioppino’s Mediterranean 

Grill & Enoteca 

$$$$, Mediterranean, Italian 


604.688.7466 

cioppinosyaletown.com 

Cuchillo 

$$, Latin American 


604.559.7585 

cuchillo.ca 

The Diamond 

$$, Mexican 


604.568.8272 

di6mond.com 

Fable Kitchen 

$$, Canadian 


604.732.1322 

fablekitchen.ca 

The Fat Badger 

$$, British 


604.336.5577 

fatbadger.ca 

Finch’s 

$$, Coffee, Breakfast, 

Brunch 


604.899.4040 

finchteahouse.com 

The Flying Pig 

$$, Canadian 


theflyingpigvan.com 

Forty Ninth Parallel Café & 

Lucky’s Doughnuts 

$, Coffee, Donuts 


604.872.4901 

49thparallelroasters.com 

luckysdoughnuts.com 

Jules 

$$, French 


604.669.0033 

julesbistro.ca 

John Sherlock 

The Keefer Bar 

$$$, Cocktails, Asian Small 

Plates 

850 METERS FROM 

STATION 

604.688.1961 

thekeeferbar.com 

Kintaro Ramen 

$, Asian 


604.682.7568 

Kirin 

$$, Seafood, Dim Sum 


kirinrestaurants.com 

L’Abattoir 

$$$, French, Canadian 


604.568.1701 

labattoir.ca 

Lighthouse Pub 

$$, Gastropub 


604.885.9494 

lighthousepub.ca 

Marutama Ramen 

$$, Asian 


604.688.8837 

marutamaramen.com 

Molly’s Reach 

$$, American, Seafood 


604.886.9710 

mollysreach.ca 

Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar 

$$, Italian, Wine 


604.736.2220 

novopizzeria.com 

The Oakwood Canadian 

Bistro 

$$, Gastropub, Canadian 


604.558.1965 

theoakwood.ca 

Octopus’ Garden 

$$$, Japanese, Sushi 


604.734.8971 

octopusgardensada.com 

Opus Bar 

$$, Cocktails, Small Plates, 

Breakfast 


604.642.2107 

opushotel.com 

OUR PICK 

Revolver 

$$, Coffee and Tea 


604.558.4444 

revolvercoffee.ca 

Salt Tasting Room 

$$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates 


604.633.1912 

salttastingroom.com 

Sal y Limon 

$, Mexican 


604.677.4247 

salylimon.ca 

Savary Island Pie Company 

$$, Bakery, Coffee 


604.926.4021 

savaryislandpiecompany.com 

Tacofino 

$$, Mexican 


778.379.8226 

tacofino.com 

Wildebeest 

$$$, Gastropub, Canadian 


604.687.6880 

wildebeest.ca 

Yaletown Brewing Co. 

$$, Brewpub 


604.681.2739 

mjg.ca 

www.ontrakmag.com


Guide 

Auberge Vancouver Hotel 


604.678.8899 

aubergevancouver.com 

Barclay House 


604.605.1351 

barclayhouse.com 

Bee & Thistle Guest House 


604.669.0715 

beeandthistle.ca 

The Burrard 


604.681.2331 

theburrard.com 

Coast Coal Harbour Hotel 


604.697.0202 


Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites 


604.688.7711 


Coast Vancouver 

Airport Hotel 


604.263.1555 


English Bay Inn 


604.683.8002 

englishbayinn.com 

Executive Hotel LeSoleil 


604.632.3000 

hotellesoleil.com 

Executive Hotel 

Vintage Park 


1.800.570.3932 

executivehotels.net 

Fairmont Chateau 

Whistler 


604.938.8000 

fairmont.com 

Georgian Court Hotel 


604.682.5555 

georgiancourthotel 

vancouver.com 

Granville House B&B 


604.739.9002 

granvillebb.com 

Granville Island Hotel 


604.683.7373 

granvilleislandhotel.com 

Hotel at the Waldorf 


604.253.7141 

hotelatthewaldorf.ca 

Hotel Blue Horizon 


604.688.1411 

bluehorizonhotel.com 

OUR PICK 

The Kingston Hotel 


604.684.9024 

kingstonhotelvancouver.com 

The Landis Hotel & Suites 


604.681.3555 

landissuitesvancouver.com 

L’Hermitage Hotel 


778.327.4100 

lhermitagevancouver.com 

The Listel Hotel 


604.684.7092 

thelistelhotel.com 

Loden Hotel 


877.225.6336 

theloden.com 

Moon Dance Vacation 

Rentals 


604.841.5805 

moondance.travel 

OPUS Vancouver 


604.642.6787 

opushotel.com 

The Painted Boat Resort 

Spa & Marina 


604.883.2456 

paintedboat.com 

Patricia Hotel 


604.255.4301 

patriciahotel.ca 

Pinnacle Hotel Vanoucver 

Harbourfront 


604.689.9211 

pinnacleharbourfronthotel.com 

The Riviera on Robson 

Suites Hotel 


604.685.1301 

rivieravancouver.com 

OUR PICK 

Rosewood Hotel Georgia 


604.682.5566 

rosewoodhotels.com 

St. Clair Hotel - Hostel 


604.648.3713 

stclairvancouver.com 

Summit Lodge 

& Spa Whistler 

Whistler 


604.932.2778 

summitlodge.com 

The Sylvia Hotel 


604.681.9321 

sylviahotel.com 

Vancouver Central 


866.762.4122 

hihostels.ca 

Victorian Hotel 


604.681.6369 

victorianhotel.ca 

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa 


604.689.7777 

wedgewoodhotel.com 

Summit Lodge, Whistler, BC 




Vancouver Aquarium 


604.659.3474 

vanaqua.org 

Vancouver Maritime 

Museum 


604.257.8300 

vancouvermaritime 

museum.com 

Whistler Blackcomb 

Whistler 


1.800.766.0449 

whistlerblackcomb.com 

Richmond Olympic Oval, Richmond, BC 

Bau-Xi Gallery 

Contemporary Fine Art 


604.733.7011 

bau-xi.com 

BC Place 


604.669.2300 

bcplace.com 

Beaty Biodiversity Museum 


604.827.4955 

beatymuseum.ubc.ca 

Bloedel Floral Conservatory 


604.257.8584 

vancouver.ca 

Capilano Suspension 

Bridge Park 


604.985.7474 

capbridge.com 

Craigdarroch Castle 

Victoria 


250.592.5323 

thecastle.ca 

Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical 

Chinese Garden 


604.662.3207 

vancouverchinesegarden.com 

Granville Island 


604.666.6655 

granvilleisland.com 

Greater Vancouver Zoo 


604.856.6825 

gvzoo.com 

Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara 

Parksville 


250.248.1838 

grottospa.com 

OUR PICK 

H.R. MacMillan Space 

Centre 


604.738.7827 

spacecentre.ca 

Museum of Vancouver 


604.736.4431 

museumofvancouver.ca 

The Orpheum 


604.665.3050 

vancouver.ca 

Peak 2 Peak Gondola 

Whistler 


1.888.403.4727 

whistlerblackcomb.com 

Pirate Adventures 


604.754.7535 

pirateadventures.ca 

Queen Elizabeth Theatre 


604.665.3050 

vancouver.ca 

Richmond Olympic Oval 

Richmond 


778.296.1400 

richmondoval.ca 

River Rock Casino Resort 

Richmond 


877.473.8900 

riverrock.com 

Robson Street 


604.669.8132 

robsonstreet.ca 

Rockwood Adventures 


604.913.1621 

rockwoodadventures.com 

OUR PICK 

Rogers Arena 


604.899.7400 

rogersarena.com 

Science World at TELUS 

World of Science 

400 METERS FROM 

STATION 

604.443.7440 

scienceworld.ca 

Skookumchuck Narrows 

Provincial Park 


604.885.3714 

ENV.GOV.BC.CA/BCPARKS 

Vancouver Art Gallery 


604.662.4700 

vanartgallery.bc.ca 


www.ontrakmag.com

EXP 

SURE 

Photo Contest 

A shot from our vacation from Los Angeles to Seattle, 

then back to Portland, then Los Angeles. We were 

amazed how amazing Seattle’s King Street Station is! 

PHOTO BY MICHAEL FLORES 

Send us a photo that represents your experience of the 

Pacific Northwest for a chance to be published here. 

Submit your photo to 

www.ontrakmag.com/exposure 


VANCOUVER, BC 

AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS 

Vancouver, BC 

Bellingham 

Low-cost fun 

in Vancouver 

page 46 

Mount Vernon 

Stanwood 

Centralia 

Everett 

Edmonds 

Seattle 

Tukwila 

An Everett 

weekend getaway Tacoma 

page 32 

Olympia/Lacey 

Kelso/Longview 

Portland 

Vancouver, WA 

Oregon City 

Salem 

Albany 

Portland’s 

Free Geek 

page 12 

Eugene 


www.ontrakmag.com

SEATTLE 

TACOMA 

OLYMPIA 


PORTLAND 

SALEM 

EUGENE 


www.ontrakmag.com

We Get It: 

Pets Are Family 

That’s why we allow small dogs and cats 

onboard with you. We know leaving home isn’t 

fun when you are missing your best friend. 

There is a weight limit. Pet weight, including the 

carrier, is limited to 20 pounds. (Author’s note: 

They still won’t let me bring my horses onboard, 

which is annoying, but that doesn’t mean I won’t 

keep asking.) 

In all seriousness, we want to allow pets and 

also be sensitive to all passengers. For this 

reason, there are some requirements: 

• Pets must remain in their carriers throughout 

the trip. 

• Pets are permitted in one Coach Car. 

• Passengers must keep their pet carrier on the 

floor in front of the aisle seat so the pet doesn’t 

get too hot near the heater. 

• Pet carriers are not permitted on train seats. 

PET RESERVATIONS, FARES AND TICKETING 

• Pet reservations can only be made with a 

reservation agent at 1-800-USA-RAIL or at a 

staffed station. 

• The pet fare is $25 per reservation 

($50 round-trip). 

• Canada does not allow pets. Sorry! 

There is more info you’ll want to know before 

you take your first trip with your pet. Please visit 

www.amtrakcascades.com/riders-guide and click 

on “PETS” to see all the details. 

Michelle and Helmut 

Godfrey bask in the fresh 

air and sunshine on the 

platform at the Salem 

Amtrak Cascades station. 


Parting Shot 

FORT VANCOUVER NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE 

VANCOUVER, WA 

Fort Vancouver is a replica of the 1825 trading post. 

PHOTO COURTESY OF VISIT VANCOUVER USA 


www.ontrakmag.com

Discover the unsearchable 

Discover the forest 

Find a trail near you at 

Discover TheForest.org

OnTrak Fall 2018

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?