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Mini Magazine - Summer 2018

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TECH: CAMBELT CONVERSION<br />

1<br />

The kit could potentially be fitted to an<br />

engine in situ, but it’s far less awkward away<br />

from the car. Better still would be to<br />

assemble as part of an engine rebuild. It’s<br />

recommended to first check the fit of the<br />

pulley on the crankshaft. Here’s the<br />

crankshaft pulley checked for fitment.<br />

2<br />

If the pulley seems too tight, it’s easier to<br />

rectify issues now than when assembled in<br />

the aluminium casing. If the pulley is too<br />

tight, remove the woodruff key and check<br />

for burrs. Try to push the pulley back on and<br />

you’ll soon tell if it’s a burr on the key or the<br />

crankshaft tail itself. Ours went straight on.<br />

3<br />

Likewise, check the fitment of the camshaft vernier pulley on the end of the cam. We’re just<br />

using an old cam for example here - use soft jaws in a vice with a new cam.<br />

4<br />

If there’s a problem with fitment on the<br />

crankshaft or camshaft, you may either need<br />

to polish the end of the shaft or gently<br />

remove any burrs with a file.<br />

5<br />

Place a new timing plate gasket on the block.<br />

The new belt drive conversion still requires<br />

use of the standard timing plate below.<br />

6<br />

If you’d prefer to fit a new timing plate to match the new cam belt kit, MED also produces a<br />

CNC-machined aluminium version.<br />

71

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