Edible San Diego Issue 45 January/February 2018

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ars for the wild rabbits. My favorite apricot tree was felled by a fungus. And marauding coyotes claimed the chickens in a series of brazen daylight attacks. This local food thing, it isn’t easy In theory, San Diego is an idyllic location for locavores— people who aspire to eat a diet consisting only or principally of locally grown or produced food. According to the San Diego County Farm Bureau, our farm economy ranks 12th in the nation. The Mediterranean climate helps support about 5,732 small farms, 68% of which are smaller than 10 acres in size. That makes San Diego County home to the highest concentration of small family-run farms in the U.S. But then you run into all the ‘buts.’ Principally, that means water. According to the San Diego Food System Alliance, San Diego’s agricultural water rates run about 30 times higher than those paid by farmers in the Central Valley Project or the Imperial Irrigation District. Land is also extremely expensive, with housing constraints pushing values sky high. In response, the Farm Bureau says that San Diego growers have increasingly turned to high-dollar-value-per-acre crops, like flowers, monocrop strawberries, avocados (until recently), and lately, marijuana. So, do we all just give up? Is the dream of a local food system, of a San Diego animated by the spirit of localism, just that—a dream? Feeling defeated by my own lapsed intentions, I went looking for inspiration. The big picture Jora Vess (Instagram @missjora) is that modern phenomenon, a social media maven whose thousands of Instagram followers tune in for glimpses of the good life. Which often looks like roasted Da Le Ranch bone marrow arranged artistically on a plate, next to a pile of sunflower sprouts grown by a friend. “I wanted to change the way my family ate. And when it comes to eating for health, to really trust the food, it’s all about sourcing.” Jora Vess “I came to local foods through ancestral cuisine,” says Jora, who started taking classes with San Diego nutritional educator Annie Dru (lardmouth.com, @lardmouth) several years ago. “I wanted to change the way my family ate. And when it comes to eating for health, to really trust the food, it’s all about sourcing.” Local sourcing—procuring products directly from their grower or maker—takes Jora to the Hillcrest Farmers’ Market every weekend. Farmers’ markets (about 50 convene in San Diego each week) are the bedrock of food localism. An opportunity to meet farmers and food makers, to ask questions, and learn first-hand about growing conditions, seasonal struggles, and upcoming harvests. “I gravitate toward the actual farm vendors, not the resellers,” says Jora, who has become friends with most of the farmers she frequents, getting to know them while chatting over Sunday morning produce purchases. The relationships have paid dividends. Tom King of Tom King Farms in Ramona, for example, gave her an education in dry farming. And now, when Jora waxes poetic about his heirloom melons, black tomatoes or pomegranates, she can praise more than just their flavor. She connects the dots between soil, growing methods and taste. That’s one great example of how localism’s relationships ripple through the wider community. Jora isn’t just a high-profile foodie; within her circle, she’s become a trusted authority, helping others better understand the value of local food beyond dollars and cents. But local food is frequently more expensive than conventional produce. So a few years back, Jora also started hosting Pantry Parties at her Mt. Helix home, where she has chickens, fruit trees, and an extensive garden. “The rule is, you have to bring something you made or grew, and enough of it to share,” she explains. Based on the old world concept of ‘economies of skill,’ she tells her friends to “play to their strengths.” So one with a gift for fermentation brings batches of homemade kimchee. Another bakes loaves of sourdough and provides jars of starter. There are usually eggs, honey, and jam. Gardeners bring herbs, fruits, and veggies. It all gets divvied up, an edible form of redistribution. And the haul, of course, is documented on Instagram. What did I learn from Jora? Even a weekly farmers’ market trip can become a form of activism. Ask questions. Learn. Share. And Pantry Parties can help you and your circle of in-real-life and social media friends stay motivated. Continued on page 24 ☛ 22 edible San Diego January-February 2018
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Page 1 and 2: Member of Edible Communities Celebr
Page 3 and 4: January-February 2018 CONTENTS DEPA
Page 5 and 6: THE ESTATES AT DEL SUR, RESIDENCE 3
Page 7 and 8: January-February 2018 edible San Di
Page 9 and 10: Growing some of their own produce h
Page 11 and 12: InTents F L A V O R S With 35 years
Page 13 and 14: SAN DIEGO COUNTY WINES 100% Estate
Page 15 and 16: When it's about food... #specialtyp
Page 17 and 18: Curried Butternut Squash Soup Pictu
Page 19 and 20: FARMERS MARKET Every Friday 2 to 6
Page 21 and 22: Dinner was a very simple pasta. I c
Page 23: Rainbow chard from backyard Prager
Page 27 and 28: January-February 2018 edible San Di
Page 29 and 30: San Diego Botanic Garden, home to p
Page 31 and 32: Visit these fine advertisers on you
Page 33 and 34: Behind the price tag lies a complex
Page 35 and 36: “ First we eat, then we do everyt
Page 37 and 38: All Hands on Deck By Ned Bell {Edib
Page 39 and 40: Sablefish with Cranberries, Cashews
Page 41 and 42: Not-so-ordinary, locally grown prod
Page 43: FARMERS’ MARKETS MONDAY Escondido

Edible San Diego Issue 45 January/February 2018

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