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<strong>Outliers</strong><br />
THE<br />
<strong>Issue</strong> #01 2018<br />
<strong>The</strong> innovators and salons<br />
disrupting the status quo
WELCOME/CONTENTS<br />
<strong>Outliers</strong><br />
Definition: person(s) differing<br />
from all other members of a<br />
particular group or set<br />
Welcome<br />
I<br />
t’s not easy out there on the high street right now.<br />
Stores are closing; big name retail brands are<br />
disappearing. But there are reasons to be cheerful.<br />
For among the plethora of salons cross the UK and<br />
Ireland, there is an identifiable band of business brains<br />
that are bucking the trend, both new entrepreneurs and<br />
seasoned salon owners.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se are the progressive businesses that are<br />
influencing others, creating a buzz, proving themselves<br />
as industry innovators and tastemakers who want to<br />
illustrate a fresh approach to hairdressing. It’s an exciting<br />
time to be one of these salons – they’re killing it on<br />
Instagram with their technique- and trend-heavy content,<br />
they’re curating fashion-forward service menus to dazzle<br />
loyal and new clients alike, they’re challenging all those<br />
old rules of what a salon should look like, how they<br />
should behave. <strong>The</strong>y are the inspiration – cool, vibrant,<br />
business-savvy brands that took the salon model and<br />
flipped it 180 degrees. And the thread that unifies them<br />
all, part of one illustrious tribe, is their partner of choice<br />
in Redken, which itself combines a strong heritage in<br />
hairdressing with a fashion-edged pioneering spirit.<br />
Across these pages you’ll meet the individuals and<br />
the brands lighting up the industry and leading the way,<br />
beacons that illuminate just what is possible. From the<br />
urban-centric to adored regional heroes, different is<br />
what they all do, and they do it with aplomb.<br />
I hope you find something different that speaks to<br />
you, too.<br />
04<br />
14<br />
18<br />
20<br />
24<br />
26 Social life for your hair<br />
30<br />
How to make your salon Insta-worthy<br />
Cult of personality<br />
32<br />
36<br />
40<br />
44<br />
46<br />
50<br />
Contents<br />
Anti-salons<br />
<strong>The</strong> disruptors doing salons differently<br />
Brush strokes of genius<br />
We quiz the world’s leading colourists<br />
IDEA! Rogue Blonde<br />
<strong>The</strong> queens of colour show off their skills at Larry King<br />
<strong>The</strong> crown jewels<br />
Guido and Josh Wood make a statement at Marc Jacobs<br />
IDEA! Bronde, Blonde and Beyond…<br />
Radio London gets creative with its service menu<br />
Lee Stafford and Craig Chapman on thinking and acting big<br />
<strong>The</strong> young & the restless<br />
How to win over a new generation of consumers<br />
Learn, earn and live better<br />
Why education is the key to your career<br />
Local heroes<br />
<strong>The</strong> regional stars bringing style to the people<br />
IDEA! Ear Candy<br />
Lockonego showcases its earring-friendly styling menu<br />
Let’s get emotional<br />
Rethink your high street presence with Salon Emotion<br />
#OwnIt!<br />
How to really stand out on social media<br />
Amanda Nottage<br />
Editor<br />
EDITOR Amanda Nottage DEPUTY EDITOR Beth Davie ART Graeme White ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal<br />
CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood CONTRIBUTOR Deborah Murtha ADVERTISING Laura Tucker DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann<br />
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Alison Rowley SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER Jenny Brooks<br />
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR Joanna Andersen PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock<br />
Supplement produced in association with Redken. Commissioned portrait photography by Amy Cooke (amycooke.com).<br />
On the cover: Mitchell Wilson of Laundry, Sheffield, photography by Nick Eagle.<br />
CONTACT: Creative HEAD, 21 <strong>The</strong> Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> is a supplement of Creative HEAD, which is published by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this supplement may be reproduced without prior permission of the<br />
publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 03
We do<br />
Corrado Tevere<br />
different<br />
Meet the Anti-salons – the ones that are breaking the<br />
mould and offering ultra-modern hair services and<br />
experiences to excite today’s style-savvy client<br />
Radio Hair Salon & Gallery,<br />
King’s Cross<br />
@radiohairsalon<br />
Visitors to King’s Cross might<br />
get something of a shock. <strong>The</strong><br />
area’s total transformation has<br />
seen it become one of London’s hippest<br />
hangouts, home to Central Saint Martins,<br />
HQs for Google, Universal Records and<br />
design icon Tom Dixon. <strong>The</strong> first hair<br />
salon to establish itself there would need<br />
to fit into this new vibe perfectly – step in<br />
Radio London.<br />
<strong>The</strong> concept was to create a multifunctional<br />
individual space, a little like<br />
a New York warehouse, for clients to<br />
experience AND get inspired. Radio<br />
incorporated all of its creative activities<br />
into it – education, a gallery, and a studio<br />
“Redken has really<br />
understood our vision<br />
and helps to fulfil<br />
it without trying to<br />
change it”<br />
Corrado Tevere<br />
for photographic work and events. “We<br />
thought it was important to create a space<br />
that would be able to deliver a different<br />
experience from a regular salon,” explains<br />
co-founder Corrado Tevere.<br />
Having a photographic studio was<br />
vital, as the salon’s editorial work is key to<br />
its ethos. “Redken understands our vision<br />
and helps to fulfil it without trying to<br />
change it,” says Corrado.<br />
For clients, the aim is to give them<br />
a tailor-made experience unlike any<br />
other. <strong>The</strong> surroundings at Radio King’s<br />
Cross regularly change as the artwork<br />
is updated. “<strong>The</strong> gallery is a real talking<br />
point for our clients and constantly<br />
brings new energy into the salon,” admits<br />
Corrado. <strong>The</strong> experience has been<br />
thoroughly thought out, with Haeckels<br />
on offer for beauty treatments and a<br />
dedicated barista area serving Allpress<br />
Coffee. You’ll also enjoy a rather cinematic<br />
experience in the private shampoo area,<br />
where silent movies help clients relax.<br />
04 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
ANTI-SALONS<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 05
06 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
ANTI-SALONS<br />
Mitchell Wilson<br />
Laundry,<br />
Sheffield<br />
@wearelaundry<br />
need to be a place<br />
where people want to<br />
“You<br />
be.” Mitchell Wilson,<br />
founder of Sheffield’s Laundry, excels at<br />
Yorkshire straight-talking. He makes it out<br />
to be simple, but look at Laundry and you<br />
know careful thought about what clients<br />
want has been applied. And it’s bringing<br />
them in… “We’ve established both a<br />
name and an ethos,” he says. “If you have<br />
great staff then great clients are easy, so<br />
it’s vital to develop that certain something<br />
special that makes people want to be part<br />
of your journey.”<br />
It’s why Laundry recently aligned<br />
itself with a new partner. “Redken seems<br />
to look at the interesting edges of our<br />
industry. I’m not interested in the middle<br />
ground, so it’s a good fit,” says Mitchell.<br />
“But the bit that floats my boat is that<br />
Redken believes in Laundry’s vision.”<br />
Mitchell’s attitude to his brand’s<br />
photoshoots are perhaps the epitome of<br />
Laundry’s disruptor status.<br />
“I’m trying to bring a sense of realism.<br />
I’ve nothing against skinny and pretty.<br />
But I do have something against altering<br />
the image in post-production beyond<br />
recognition, in a bizarre celebration of the<br />
photographer’s skill,” he explains. “I’m far<br />
more interested in character and trying to<br />
do things differently.<br />
“It will set Laundry apart and achieve<br />
a level of recognition that yet another set<br />
of generic photos just won’t.”<br />
“<strong>The</strong> bit that floats<br />
my boat is that<br />
Redken believes in<br />
Laundry’s vision”<br />
Mitchell Wilson<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 07
Josh Wood<br />
Josh Wood Colour,<br />
Holland Park<br />
@joshwoodcolour<br />
Inspired by the concept of the atelier<br />
– a bespoke approach to clothing –<br />
Josh Wood knew precisely how his<br />
own salon would operate. <strong>The</strong> globe’s<br />
most famous colourist explains: “We<br />
really felt that a closed-door policy was<br />
needed to give our clients privacy and a<br />
totally different feeling. I like the idea of<br />
curating a space, making it feel different<br />
when clients come in.”<br />
That’s why he works with artists<br />
to create a variety of installations to<br />
continually refresh each room with<br />
different, sometimes surprising results.<br />
When it opened seven years ago,<br />
Josh admits the Atelier was very much<br />
a disruptor. But to keep that edge,<br />
“I like the idea of<br />
curating a space,<br />
making it feel different<br />
when clients come in”<br />
Josh Wood<br />
it takes a team of people that art direct<br />
the space and keep it feeling different.<br />
“We need to keep evolving and changing<br />
the environment. We need to keep<br />
pulling in creatives to keep it current,” he<br />
explains. “I like to speak to our clients’<br />
interests beyond them getting amazing<br />
hair. I want them to feel like the Atelier is<br />
an evolving space.”<br />
With such a premium offering<br />
and A-list clients in his chairs, the right<br />
product partner was a priority. “I love the<br />
creativity of Redken, the way it listens and<br />
partners with hairstylists,” Josh admits.<br />
“Innovative products are at its core!”<br />
Josh advises anyone keen to take<br />
an individual approach to stop thinking<br />
about these spaces as salons.<br />
“If there is another service that you<br />
can offer, it keeps clients feeling they are<br />
in a different space.” Indeed, his team has<br />
curated a shop that sells not only hair<br />
products but also beauty in general. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are regular pop-ups for brands to launch<br />
and showcase new products and a library<br />
and in-house chef keep clients’ minds and<br />
bodies well-nourished. “I also love to do<br />
mini-shoots in our studio generally, just<br />
for content for our website or Instagram,”<br />
he adds. “Making the Atelier feel like a<br />
creative hub is crucial.”<br />
08 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
ANTI-SALONS<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 09
Amanda and Toby Dicker<br />
<strong>The</strong> Chapel,<br />
Royal Tunbridge Wells<br />
@thechapelplace<br />
A<br />
school house, an old public<br />
house, a church building. Even<br />
before you set foot in one of<br />
<strong>The</strong> Chapel’s five sites in the South East,<br />
you’re aware its salons are unlike others.<br />
And that was the goal from the beginning,<br />
back in 2001. “We deliberately set out to<br />
be different,” explains co-founder Toby<br />
Dicker. “We identified the three key brand<br />
values for us – Relaxation, Education and<br />
Service. One of our business colleagues<br />
at the time said: ‘If you put a T on the end<br />
you have REST.’ <strong>The</strong>n the T became the<br />
Tailored part of the experience.”<br />
It was actually Amanda Dicker, cofounder<br />
of <strong>The</strong> Chapel and Toby’s wife,<br />
who came up with a new approach, thanks<br />
to a glass of wine. Having been travelling<br />
and then working in a wine bar, she would<br />
sit and talk with women about their hair<br />
over a chilled glass. It was sobering stuff.<br />
“<strong>The</strong>y were not really talking about hair,<br />
they were talking about their experiences<br />
in the salon. <strong>The</strong> bits they hated, the bits<br />
that made them nervous, the bits that<br />
prevented them from moving on with<br />
colour or cuts,” she recalls. “I realised<br />
I could open a salon that tackled these<br />
problems and do something different.”<br />
And so <strong>The</strong> Chapel today consistently<br />
answers the prayers of its clients, and<br />
its staff. With clients, it’s about having a<br />
conversation rather than a consultation.<br />
<strong>The</strong> products that creative team<br />
work with needed to match that vibe,<br />
that approach of doing things differently,<br />
which is why the group selected Redken.<br />
“I was looking for a product with<br />
personality,” says Amanda. “Redken colour<br />
is so clever – it allows natural tones to<br />
come through with each individual hair.”<br />
“We deliberately set<br />
out to be different”<br />
Toby Dicker<br />
10 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
ANTI-SALONS<br />
Cult & Bloom,<br />
Shoreditch<br />
@cultandbloomsalon<br />
Max Dolat<br />
your unique hair<br />
story” is the invitation<br />
“Create<br />
visitors receive at Cult<br />
& Bloom. Positioned on Shoreditch’s<br />
bustling Commercial Street, the salon<br />
offers a much-needed botanical oasis of<br />
calm. <strong>The</strong> team is laser-focused on giving<br />
clients a unique experience in a homely,<br />
relaxed atmosphere. Colour changes,<br />
balayage, highlights and bleaching… yup,<br />
customers get the lot, but hair health is a<br />
top priority, too.<br />
Having worked in the area before,<br />
Max Dolat thought Shoreditch offered<br />
the perfect mix of clientele, and he was<br />
determined to follow a green mission.<br />
<strong>The</strong> salon is also hardwired to deliver<br />
a premium experience for those looking<br />
to escape, if only for a short while. For<br />
example, each room has its own fragrance<br />
to stimulate the senses. This sense of<br />
escape is also aimed at the staff, a key<br />
factor in Max’s vision. It’s something<br />
unusual, as salon managers are often<br />
obsessed with filling columns.<br />
“London can be very stressful, and<br />
I’ve worked in salons that are challenging<br />
environments. I believe that’s why<br />
hairdressers can lose their passion – long<br />
hours, few days off,” he explains. “I wanted<br />
to create an environment that was more<br />
chilled for them – we’re all really happy!<br />
Max values the importance of ‘team’,<br />
and it’s one of the fundamental attractions<br />
of Redken, the line Cult & Bloom stocks.<br />
“I love the family vibe and team spirit of<br />
Redken, the energy everyone has,” he says.<br />
“And the clients love it – the No Blow Dry<br />
cream is one of our bestsellers… even for<br />
blow-drys! Anything that is different, like<br />
the Heat Cure treatments or the new<br />
All Soft Mega Hair Sheet Mask, it gets<br />
their attention, it starts the conversation.”<br />
“I love the family vibe<br />
and team spirit of<br />
Redken, the energy<br />
everyone has”<br />
Max Dolat<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 11
Perfect<br />
partners<br />
Redken Shades EQ is the It-list colour you need to create the<br />
latest A-list techniques your clients are asking for<br />
Consumer awareness of professional<br />
techniques is bigger than ever in 2018.<br />
Techniques that can only be done in the hands<br />
of It-list colourists are the game-changer for<br />
our industry. Combine with Redken Shades EQ –<br />
a formula that can never be bought in a box –<br />
and you have the recipe for truly A-list colour<br />
results. Join the revolution as Redken gets<br />
ready to Shade the Nation!<br />
THE SHADES TO RAVE ABOUT<br />
Expect more from your colour and elevate your colour<br />
technique with Shades EQ. It’s a favourite among top<br />
colourists for its even results without compromise and<br />
colour flexibility, enabling colourists to personalise<br />
colour to each client. Hair is left with an incredible<br />
glossy shine that’s unlike anything in the market.<br />
Redken brings the gleam with the hottest techniques<br />
trending right now…<br />
BALAYAGE BLENDS<br />
Enhance, enrich, change, match, tone down or<br />
intensify pre-lightened hair with this technique.<br />
You can also restore colour to highlights, and<br />
correct uneven, brassy or overly vibrant tones.<br />
GET GLOSSED<br />
Give clients an unbeatable glossy shine to their dull or<br />
damaged hair. Enhance any colour, even virgin hair…<br />
or offer any client a quick colour refresh!<br />
Be different. Be Redken.<br />
Want to be part of a new generation colour house? Join the revolution – email Redken<br />
at info.redken@loreal.com for a bespoke colour demonstration<br />
REDKEN.CO.UK @REDKEN REDKENUK REDKENUKI<br />
12 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
ADVERTORIAL<br />
Peach Bellini<br />
featuring @ninaagdal<br />
Cotton<br />
Candy<br />
Glacier Filter<br />
Using Shades EQ Aqua Blue<br />
By @bonneyclaire<br />
Radio London<br />
Pastel placement Using Shades<br />
EQ Pastel Pink + Pastel Peach<br />
THE TECHNIQUES<br />
Smoked Pearl<br />
Autumn Flame<br />
By Claire Flack<br />
@wigsandwarpaint<br />
Using new Shades EQ<br />
Natural Ashes<br />
08NA + 06NA + Gel to Cream<br />
Solution for root smudge. 09P<br />
+ 09V + Crystal Clear + Gel<br />
to Cream Solution for Zones<br />
2 and 3<br />
By @giellygreen<br />
Using new Shades EQ Reds<br />
Formula 1: 08C + Gloss to<br />
Cream solution. Formula 2:<br />
07RR + 08C + Gloss to Cream.<br />
Formula 3: 06RR + Processing<br />
Solution. Varying placement of<br />
the different formulas<br />
Frost Gloss<br />
Using Shades EQ 07T + 08T<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 13
Brush<br />
strokes<br />
of genius<br />
Hair colour has never been this big – thank you Instagram!<br />
We quiz the leading colourists – and a few up-and-comers –<br />
about why colour rocks their world<br />
Tracey Cunningham, Mèche Salon<br />
and Redken creative consultant for colour<br />
@traceycunningham1<br />
All images courtesy of colourists’ Instagram<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are celebrity colourists and then<br />
there’s Tracey Cunningham. Adored by<br />
the Hollywood elite, including Jennifer<br />
Lopez, Drew Barrymore, Charlize<br />
<strong>The</strong>ron and Jessica Biel, the US<br />
colourist has become synonymous with<br />
creating beautiful, natural colour for<br />
stars on the red carpet and in editorials<br />
– a far cry from when she started out<br />
as Bette Midler’s nanny! After two<br />
decades, Tracey remains at the top of<br />
her game. Her work has graced the<br />
covers of magazines such as W, Allure<br />
and Marie Claire, and she opened her<br />
own salon, Mèche, with co-owner<br />
Neil Weisberg, in 2012. Regularly jetsetting<br />
between Dubai, Europe and the<br />
Kardashian compounds in California,<br />
Tracey is the undisputed leading lady<br />
in the colourist world…<br />
I love Redken Shades EQ<br />
because… I’ve been a fan and a faithful<br />
follower of all things Shades EQ for years.<br />
It’s one of the top three things I can’t<br />
live without – that’s in a group with my<br />
son and Americano coffee! <strong>The</strong> formula,<br />
range of tones, and shades are just so easy<br />
to use – any other colour brand pales in<br />
comparison and I’ve tried the lot.<br />
What does a modern client want<br />
from a professional colour? Thanks<br />
to social media, every girl knows exactly<br />
what they want when it comes to beauty<br />
nowadays, and that’s especially true<br />
of hair colour. This makes my life that<br />
much easier. When a client comes into<br />
my salon, they immediately get out their<br />
iPhone and show me images of celebrities<br />
or tastemakers with the hair colour they<br />
are going for. Most are my clients already<br />
in those inspiration pictures, so I know<br />
exactly how to apply their colour and<br />
the results with Shades EQ is always the<br />
desired outcome.<br />
How would you describe yourself<br />
as a colourist? I know what my<br />
strengths are and I understand the limits<br />
and I stick to it. I’m not into fads or trends<br />
– I just want my clients’ hair to be healthy,<br />
manageable, and gorgeous.<br />
What has been the highlight of<br />
your career so far? I’ve had so many!<br />
I love my Redken family and I enjoy<br />
travelling the globe to educate other hair<br />
colourists. <strong>The</strong> audience and I have a great<br />
time and I get to meet all these people<br />
who are so supportive of my career. I get<br />
to actually meet people I converse with on<br />
social media and that means a lot to me.<br />
I just love people and I love this industry.<br />
14 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
COLOURISTS<br />
Craig Purves,<br />
Eleven Hair<br />
@craigsworldofhair<br />
I love Shades EQ because… as a<br />
colourist I look for three things in a colour<br />
range: creativity, results and hair health<br />
– I’ve been using Shades EQ now for 15<br />
years as it hits every one of those points.<br />
Dependable results and incredible shine,<br />
with infinite formulation possibilities.<br />
My advice for a young colourist<br />
is… Being a successful colourist and<br />
getting the most from your career isn’t<br />
about being ruthless or waiting for<br />
things to just happen. It’s about<br />
continually learning and putting yourself<br />
out there when you can. When you do<br />
well, people notice.<br />
Megan Niccolls,<br />
Voodou<br />
@meganniccollshair<br />
I love Shades EQ because… a few<br />
of the reasons it appeals to me is that it<br />
doesn’t lift the natural hair colour. This<br />
along with the consistency of shades that<br />
makes it perfect for colour melting, as well<br />
as it adding unbelievable shine.<br />
What does a modern client want<br />
from a professional colour?<br />
I think the modern client wants seamless,<br />
shiny hair, whether that be a natural<br />
balayage to a fashion colour, I always use<br />
Redken pH-Bonder, which protects and<br />
adds shine – healthy hair is beautiful hair!<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 15
Michelle Marshall,<br />
Michelle Marshall<br />
@michelle _marshall<br />
I love Shades EQ because… it’s so<br />
easy to use, it’s very versatile. It moves<br />
through the hair easily.<br />
What has been the highlight of<br />
your career so far?<br />
<strong>The</strong>re’s been so many highlights, but<br />
I guess it would have to be landing a<br />
contract to travel to New York four times<br />
this year to work at the Redken Exchange<br />
on 5th Avenue. I get to work with two<br />
really talented colourists there – Lori<br />
Zabel and Veronica Ridge.<br />
My advice for a young<br />
colourist is…<br />
Say yes to every opportunity. Expect to<br />
do a lot of work for free if you want to<br />
get into the artistic side of things. Never<br />
give up on your dreams, never cut corners<br />
with colour, take pride in your work<br />
and maintain your integrity.<br />
Harriet Muldoon<br />
and Amy Fish,<br />
Larry King Salon<br />
@amyfishcolour<br />
@harrietmuldoon<br />
I love Shades EQ because…<br />
AF: I love the variety of soft shades and<br />
the incredible shine and condition.<br />
HM: of the gloss! And with Redken it’s all<br />
about bringing back the pH. And there’s a<br />
shade for every client.<br />
What does a modern client want<br />
from a professional colour?<br />
AF: An effortless colour look that feels<br />
fresh and exciting.<br />
HM: It’s not about covering greys –<br />
thanks to social media and hashtags,<br />
people are getting bolder and braver.<br />
I have to deliver Instagrammable colour.<br />
What’s been the highlight of your<br />
career so far?<br />
AF: Winning <strong>The</strong> It List It Girl award in<br />
2016; going to Paris to colour models’ hair<br />
for a Saint Laurent show and building a<br />
new colour department at Larry King!<br />
My advice for a young<br />
colourist is…<br />
AF: Don’t be afraid to try something new<br />
and working hard does really pay off.<br />
HM: Be open and keep working on<br />
trends and techniques.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Artistic Team,<br />
Live True<br />
@livetruelondon<br />
We love Shades EQ because… it<br />
completely changed our world in terms<br />
of colour. <strong>The</strong> intensity of the hue and<br />
the multitude of possibilities to create the<br />
perfect tailor-made colour is our absolute<br />
favourite part. We can obtain tones that<br />
are incredibly shiny and keep the integrity<br />
of the hair at the highest level of strength<br />
and quality at the same time. Lately, silver<br />
tones are on-trend more than ever and<br />
Shade EQ offers a fantastic range of icy<br />
toners that are perfect for our clientele.<br />
What is your dream when it<br />
comes to your colour career?<br />
<strong>The</strong> dream is to be able to express<br />
to the world how fantastic we are.<br />
When we think about it, colour is more<br />
than a passion, it’s a way of being, living<br />
and breathing!<br />
16 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
COLOURISTS<br />
Paul Bingham,<br />
Lockonego<br />
@Pbingham75<br />
Claire Bonney,<br />
Radio Hair Salon<br />
@bonneyclaire<br />
Samantha Cusick,<br />
Samantha Cusick London<br />
@samanthacusicklondon<br />
I love Shades EQ because… of its<br />
incredible shine! It’s a great product that’s<br />
got many tones that can be personalised,<br />
depending on a client’s need.<br />
Describe yourself as a colourist…<br />
Enthusiastic and approachable. I like to<br />
make sure my clients have the best colour<br />
experience and service. I do take my job<br />
very seriously; I have a lot responsibility as<br />
I’m in control of someone’s appearance!<br />
What’s been the highlight of<br />
your career so far? Becoming an<br />
art director for Toni&Guy was big as it<br />
allowed me to teach colour in an academy<br />
and to work on hair shows and share my<br />
colour work with big audiences. I’d love<br />
to become a Redken Artist now – I’m<br />
working on it!<br />
I love Shades EQ because… it’s a<br />
wonder product, its versatility is its most<br />
appealing quality.<br />
What does a modern client want<br />
from a professional colour?<br />
A ‘look’ unique to them. We use<br />
a carefully designed menu based on our<br />
continual search for the current and<br />
modern, paired with the Radio aesthetic.<br />
We aim to deliver a bespoke experience.<br />
What’s your dream when it<br />
comes to your colour career? To<br />
work on campaigns and diverse creative<br />
projects, hopefully increasing my travel,<br />
too… and years from now maybe work on<br />
producing a colour product range!<br />
I love Shades EQ because… it<br />
is the colour that everyone is using on<br />
Instagram. <strong>The</strong>y were creating these<br />
blondes and I wanted to do that, too!<br />
Those biscuit blondes that are bright but<br />
they’re ash? <strong>The</strong>y’re everything! I found<br />
the techniques and then it was about<br />
getting the right toner. One of the biggest<br />
trends is no warmth.<br />
What does a modern client want<br />
from a professional colour… and<br />
how are you delivering? Everybody<br />
wants that bespoke, tailored approach.<br />
Clients are really good at knowing what<br />
they want now.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 17
Rogue Blonde<br />
South Kensington’s Larry King Salon gets fierce with its blondes<br />
with a colour menu that’s up front and a little bit punk<br />
BRIGHT IDEA<br />
Clarisse<br />
Misty<br />
SAY HELLO TO THE Class of<br />
2018, graduating from the fingeron-the-pulse<br />
Larry King Salon.<br />
<strong>The</strong> question is, how rogue will<br />
you go? That’s Rogue Blonde,<br />
the unifying theme from Larry<br />
and his queens of colour, Harriet<br />
Muldoon and Amy Fish. This<br />
colour-rich collection is all about<br />
taking a little bit of an anarchic<br />
approach to blonde this season,<br />
it’s the art class muse, playing<br />
with pastel shades and more<br />
vibrant streaks and finished with<br />
a laissez-faire attitude that’s a little<br />
bit raw, very real and relatable,<br />
and naturally covetable. “Women<br />
want to feel like they’re being<br />
taken seriously,” explain Amy and<br />
Harriet. “<strong>The</strong> long, loose waves<br />
we’ve seen in the past few years<br />
can cover so much of the face and<br />
feel a bit staged in the world of<br />
New Feminism. It’s about being<br />
individual and bold – it’s like<br />
power dressing for hair.”<br />
This first collection from Larry King<br />
Salon, with all looks using Redken<br />
colour and styling products, is<br />
steeped in late ’80s rock and early<br />
‘90s grunge references, with a<br />
smattering of Supers and a smidge<br />
of punk, too. Think Courtney<br />
Love, Drew Barrymore, Winona<br />
Ryder. And for the boys, Larry’s<br />
team is crushing hard on Leonardo<br />
Di Caprio circa Romeo+Juliet.<br />
You had us at Winona – we’re<br />
ready to go full rogue...<br />
18 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
BRIGHT IDEA<br />
Nancy<br />
Courtney<br />
“Women want to feel like they’re being taken<br />
seriously… it’s about being individual and bold<br />
– it’s like power dressing for hair”<br />
AMY FISH AND HARRIET MULDOON<br />
Styling by <strong>The</strong> Styling Team at Larry King using Redken. Colour by Queens of Colour at Larry King using Redken. Make-up by Jade Farmiloe. Photography by Phoebe Fox.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 19
<strong>The</strong> crown jewels<br />
From fuchsia to chartreuse,<br />
wedge cuts to side points, the<br />
Marc Jacobs A/W18 show was<br />
a masterclass in statement<br />
hair. Josh Wood and Guido, the<br />
backstage leads creating the<br />
hair looks with Redken, lift the lid<br />
on how the story came together<br />
This page: photography by James Cochrane<br />
20 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
MARC JACOBS A/W18<br />
Josh Wood (left) and Guido backstage at Marc Jacobs<br />
In a show that saw 80 per cent<br />
of the models donning hats,<br />
you know it must have been<br />
pretty spectacular hair on the<br />
remainder to have ended up on the<br />
cover of <strong>The</strong> New York Times. That<br />
was down to the talent of session<br />
stars Josh Wood and Guido.<br />
An illustration of the power<br />
of collaboration, the duo worked<br />
with the designer to deliver a<br />
darker take on ’80s nostalgia,<br />
referencing classic Sassoon<br />
techniques with the cuts, and neon<br />
from an ’80s nightclub for the<br />
colour. It was a fusion that excited<br />
the world of fashion, something<br />
that isn’t so easy to do in 2018.<br />
Marc had a clear view about<br />
what he wanted to create, looking<br />
at a very specific time in the ’80s<br />
using extreme silhouettes. “It<br />
felt night time, colourful but in<br />
a dark way,” says Guido, global<br />
creative director for Redken. “I<br />
went back to what had an impact<br />
on me at the beginning of my<br />
career. I started at Sassoon, those<br />
haircuts were my blueprint for<br />
hairdressing.” After each model<br />
was cut, colour took over.<br />
<strong>The</strong> designer set Josh the task<br />
of colour-matching every single<br />
piece of fabric the models would<br />
be wearing. <strong>The</strong> Redken global<br />
color creative director found it<br />
all reassuring. “With designers,<br />
colour is so subjective. We had<br />
20 samples of fabric that we were<br />
trying to match to the hair. It’s<br />
much easier than Marc saying ‘I<br />
want a fuschia pink’, because his<br />
fuschia is very different to Guido’s<br />
fuschia… there were goals we were<br />
trying to achieve,” he explains.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> more clear the brief, the<br />
easier it is to deliver.”<br />
It was an intensive project.<br />
Three days of conversations<br />
before anyone arrived at the test,<br />
and then three 20-hour days with<br />
Josh’s team working in shifts.<br />
And some shades were more<br />
of a challenge, namely chartreuse.<br />
“We had to bleach the hair to a<br />
very specific shade of mustard<br />
to avoid a banana yellow. It still<br />
needed a lot of underlying pigment<br />
to get that green-gold. That was<br />
done five times,” Josh admits.<br />
In fact, three formulas were<br />
fused together. Formula one<br />
(Redken City Beats in High Line<br />
Green) was blurred into formula<br />
two (Redken City Beats in Yellow<br />
Cab plus a drop of Redken City<br />
Beats in Times Square Teal) and<br />
blurred into formula three (Redken<br />
City Beats in High Line Green +<br />
Redken City Beats in Yellow Cab<br />
plus a drop of Redken City Beats in<br />
Brooklyn Blue).<br />
“We were up and down those<br />
stairs in the Marc Jacobs studio.<br />
Precision colour, where placement<br />
is everything, is not easy to do over<br />
a kitchen sink.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> end result was one that<br />
thrilled both designer and the<br />
wider fashion world alike. <strong>The</strong><br />
models in question have since<br />
been used in the Marc Jacobs<br />
seasonal campaign and used<br />
by Guido in a magazine shoot.<br />
And it was a first for Josh Wood,<br />
seeing himself name-checked in<br />
the show notes. “It was a career<br />
highlight for me,” says Josh. “Marc<br />
said that what I’d done exceeded<br />
expectations, he’d never seen<br />
colour like that. It’s a pretty proud<br />
moment when you’re allowed<br />
to do something for a genius<br />
and you’re introducing them<br />
to something rather than just<br />
meeting their expectations.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 21
Teddy Quinlivan (right),<br />
Leomie Anderson Teddy Quinlivan and Leigh (right), Lezark<br />
Leomie Anderson (left) and for Leigh Redken Lezark 5th Avenue (left)<br />
for Redken 5th Avenue<br />
All rights reserved. 2018<br />
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Bronde, Blonde and Beyond<br />
Let’s get creative and colourful with this savvy service menu from Radio Hair Salon<br />
& Gallery in London’s King’s Cross, all created in collaboration with Redken for a<br />
plethora of pastel possibilities… and beyond!<br />
BRIGHT IDEA<br />
Beyond Pink<br />
Beyond Silver<br />
Beyond Silver<br />
Bronde<br />
24 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
BRIGHT IDEA<br />
Beyond Pink<br />
Blonde<br />
“She shows confidence and control,<br />
all while looking relaxed and cool”<br />
CORRADO TEVERE<br />
Hair and concept by Radio Artistic Team. Make-up by Liz Marsden. Photography by JC Verona.<br />
IN RADIO HAIR Salon &<br />
Gallery’s new Kings Cross<br />
location, there’s a space that’s<br />
primed for the team to shoot<br />
their work on a regular basis.<br />
And the windows in the newlygenerated<br />
and achingly-cool Kings<br />
Cross neighbourhood showcase<br />
just what this rather brilliantly<br />
talented team can do. Currently<br />
being showcased is its Bronde,<br />
Blonde and Beyond service<br />
menu, created in collaboration<br />
with Redken and cleverly tapping<br />
into consumer lust for Instagramworthy<br />
colour. It’s a simple yet<br />
impactful collection of images for<br />
clients to engage with. “Emulating<br />
a ‘Parisian chic’, the Bronde is<br />
elegant yet cool,” explains Radio’s<br />
founder Corrado Tevere. Here,<br />
the team showcase looks for<br />
clients wanting low-commitment<br />
colour, and a more natural and<br />
blended finish. Blondes? Well,<br />
they’ll always be a big colour<br />
business driver, and the line-up<br />
here includes high impact tones.<br />
“She shows confidence and<br />
control, all while looking relaxed<br />
and cool,” explains Corrado, while<br />
another look that’s a brighter,<br />
vivid finish makes regrowth a<br />
feature, gives this baby blonde an<br />
edge, and makes visits to the salon<br />
less frequent. Beyond Pink offers<br />
the most playful look, alongside<br />
Beyond Silver, which has a fierce<br />
personality. “<strong>The</strong> colour hue is<br />
soft yet very bold,” he smiles,<br />
“it’s sophisticated with lots of<br />
edge.” We think Radio’s clients<br />
will be spoiled for choice. What to<br />
go for first?<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 25
26 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
LIKES<br />
Social life<br />
It’s not just about the hair at these salons, it’s also about ‘the hang’.<br />
See how Larry King and Samantha Cusick have crafted their<br />
salons and their swagger, to ensure clients are sharing to the max<br />
Larry King,<br />
Larry King, South Kensington<br />
@LarryKingHair<br />
Larry King at Larry King Salon<br />
Search #LarrysWorld on<br />
Instagram and you’ll soon<br />
see why Larry King has<br />
all the beauty press a-flutter and<br />
a long list of celebrity clients and<br />
editorial credits. This canny use<br />
of social media has really helped<br />
drive the success of the Larry<br />
King salon in South Kensington<br />
beyond that of just another cool<br />
London hairdressers. “It’s not just<br />
about getting your hair done,” he<br />
explains, “it’s about hanging out,<br />
having a coffee outside, meeting<br />
your mates while they’re getting<br />
a blow-dry. I want this to be a<br />
community…” No wonder the<br />
#sociallifeforyourhair hashtag he’s<br />
created is gaining such traction.<br />
Alongside his wife and<br />
business partner, Laura, Larry<br />
has crafted a salon that is the<br />
epitome of social FOR social<br />
(media, that is). It’s a mix of<br />
stunning decor that makes<br />
various angles and scenes utterly<br />
Instagrammable. A fusion of East<br />
End cool with West End luxury,<br />
Larry describes the design as<br />
“industrial elegance”, all grey<br />
shades, high gloss tiles, wooden<br />
floors and bespoke granite work<br />
stations. And it’s a continual<br />
evolution: as he and Laura find<br />
more interesting pieces to pepper<br />
the place, the salon’s look will<br />
evolve further.<br />
A key element is Larry’s<br />
partnership with Redken.<br />
“It’s such an influential brand,<br />
especially in the US. Here, it’s<br />
been more of a sleeping giant. You<br />
know it has Guido, but it’s making<br />
great strides and Josh Wood has<br />
come on board, too. <strong>The</strong> products<br />
tick every box – it’s an abundance<br />
of innovation.”<br />
From the pavement seating<br />
outside to the library of fashion<br />
books and the Copper Dog-stocked<br />
drinks trolley in reception, the hang<br />
element of the salon is clear. It’s not<br />
stuffy; it’s fun, friendly and you’ll<br />
want to stay a while.<br />
“This is also a place where you<br />
want to take pictures, which is all<br />
for social media but it also feels<br />
like home,” Larry adds. “<strong>The</strong>re are<br />
different areas of the salon where<br />
you can capture those moments.”<br />
Examples include the ‘Loo with a<br />
View’ and the all-pink bathroom<br />
in the basement. <strong>The</strong>re’s even a<br />
selfie seat, and it leads to organic<br />
advertising for his salon and<br />
team, while creating “Instagram<br />
envy” for his potential clients.<br />
No wonder Pixie Lott and David<br />
Gandy include their snip visits on<br />
their own Instagram pages…<br />
“This is also a<br />
place where you<br />
want to take<br />
pictures, which<br />
is all for social<br />
media but it also<br />
feels like home”<br />
Larry King<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 27
Samantha Cusick<br />
Samantha Cusick London, Notting Hill<br />
@SamanthaCusickLondon<br />
From the palm fronds to<br />
the millennial pink and<br />
the flamingo icons, the<br />
Samantha Cusick London salon<br />
is an Instagrammer’s dream.<br />
Samantha herself has curated<br />
the concept with care and detail<br />
to make sure that the client<br />
experience appeals to… well, her!<br />
“I’m the target market,” she<br />
says. “I’m 30; our aim is 25 to late<br />
30s and I was thinking: ‘<strong>The</strong>re’s<br />
nowhere I would want to go and<br />
get my hair done. What would I<br />
want?’ Good music, a nice place to<br />
sit, stuff to do like paint your nails,<br />
nice drinks. It’s somewhere to<br />
hang out and have fun… and you’re<br />
going to leave with good hair!”<br />
This Nottingham-born stylist<br />
knows the start of the client’s<br />
journey begins when they find<br />
your salon online. So visit the<br />
salon’s site or Instagram and<br />
you’ll know precisely what this<br />
brand is about. “When they walk<br />
through the door it’s consistent<br />
with that,” she agrees. “Everything<br />
is pretty and organised, the staff<br />
are friendly and engaging, and you<br />
get to know them on social media,<br />
which is important. It takes away<br />
that ‘front’; that old experience<br />
of walking into a hairdressers<br />
and everyone looking you up and<br />
down. As soon as someone comes<br />
in they feel like they know us<br />
already, it puts them at ease and<br />
they have a better experience.”<br />
When you have bloggers with<br />
huge followings sat in your chair -<br />
think Zoella and Tanya Burr – it’s<br />
understandable that you’re going<br />
to think about your business<br />
through that filter, and Samantha<br />
admits that she draws inspiration<br />
from them whenever they visit.<br />
So, what’s the secret? “It’s always<br />
about being yourself; as soon as<br />
you’re not, then what’s the point?”<br />
she questions. “Don’t do anything<br />
you don’t feel comfortable with,<br />
because then you lose credibility.”<br />
And think about your lighting,<br />
too. “My friend, the blogger Em<br />
Ford, sent me a ring light two<br />
years ago, and all the package said<br />
was ‘#instagramupgrade!’” she<br />
laughs. “It gave our shots a whole<br />
new life. It makes a big difference.<br />
You can’t rely on natural light.”<br />
Again, it’s about that client<br />
experience – everyone feels more<br />
comfortable with the light because<br />
“you look more glowy,” she smiles.<br />
“It’s somewhere to<br />
hang out and have fun…<br />
and you’re going to<br />
leave with good hair!”<br />
Samantha Cusick<br />
Samantha Cusick at Samantha Cusick London<br />
28 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
LIKES<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 29
<strong>The</strong> cult of<br />
personality<br />
You might think big, but do you act big? We ask Lee Stafford and<br />
Craig Chapman how their personas have impacted their careers<br />
30 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
CULT OF PERSONALITY<br />
Craig Chapman Hair Design<br />
Lee Stafford<br />
@leestaffordhair<br />
Perhaps the very definition<br />
of ‘personality’, the<br />
charming, funny and<br />
straight-talking Lee Stafford was<br />
a breath of fresh air when he hit<br />
big in the ’90s. He was real, and<br />
his neon pink and Staffie dog<br />
branding was unlike anything seen<br />
elsewhere in hair. And what still<br />
comes across, is his warmth and<br />
his passion for the industry.<br />
Having spent the first six years<br />
of his career in his mum’s living<br />
room in Essex, he admits “I didn’t<br />
learn in the conventional sense,<br />
so I had to go on lots of training<br />
courses”. This gave him a unique<br />
perspective on the variety of hair<br />
education out there.<br />
He points to one example:<br />
“when I used to sit in that training<br />
room, you could hear a pin drop.<br />
Everyone was scared to ask a<br />
question – well I wasn’t! – and the<br />
people up there would talk, talk,<br />
talk. That’s not very empowering<br />
for anybody,” he bristles.<br />
It’s one of the reasons why<br />
today he is laser-focused on Lee<br />
Stafford Education, currently<br />
running in 13 UK colleges. He’s<br />
determined to raise the standard<br />
of young stylists leaving college<br />
and ensure they’re work-ready.<br />
“Redken<br />
empowers<br />
people through<br />
the way it<br />
coaches”<br />
Lee Stafford<br />
This passion for education<br />
is also why his love affair with<br />
Redken still burns bright – he<br />
admits that even after 30 years<br />
he’s never used any other industry<br />
brand. “Lots of product houses<br />
do great products, but for me it’s<br />
always about the way Redken<br />
empowers people through the<br />
way it coaches. It will encourage<br />
you to ask a question early on and<br />
they will make you feel special,” he<br />
explains. “It knocked me sideways<br />
back then, and it still knocks me<br />
sideways today.”<br />
Lee is a prime example of<br />
success coming from a drive<br />
within – he has powered his own<br />
success. “One of Redken’s mantras<br />
is to encourage individuality –<br />
there’s no-one like you, there’s<br />
no-one like me,” he explains.<br />
“I’ve learned that if you copy<br />
you’ll get nowhere. You have to<br />
be innovative, and the only way<br />
to be innovative as a person is to<br />
be yourself. You’ll be original, and<br />
you’ll stand out for that.”<br />
Craig Chapman<br />
@craigchapmanhair<br />
Many might think of<br />
Cornwall as a rather<br />
sleepy place; but<br />
Launceston-based Craig Chapman<br />
is anything but sleepy. <strong>The</strong> 2017<br />
Most Wanted Creative Talent<br />
winner is a fizzing ball of energy<br />
who runs a brilliantly successful<br />
salon in Cornwall and also<br />
balances that with a busy session<br />
and TV career (he’s on his third<br />
season of <strong>The</strong> Voice). Oh, and he’s<br />
launched a talent agency. “Well,<br />
if you want to make it big, there’s<br />
no time to be a shrinking violet!”<br />
he laughs.<br />
But raising a profile outside<br />
your salon area when you’re from<br />
a small Cornish town isn’t the<br />
easiest thing to achieve. And that’s<br />
where his agency HAIRDOTCOM<br />
found its roots, explains Craig.<br />
“This was designed not only to<br />
expand my career, but also to<br />
provide opportunities for stylists<br />
to work in London without having<br />
to make the move there.”<br />
On one show alone, Craig<br />
and his cohorts looked after 60<br />
people, including dancers, bands<br />
and choirs, all with the help of a kit<br />
bag stuffed with Redken products.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> very first day I started was a<br />
Redken training day!” he grins.<br />
“Its education ethos always has<br />
been so strong.”<br />
So, what’s the secret to such a<br />
successful career outside of a big<br />
city? “Being happy is so important<br />
as it makes people want to work<br />
with you,” he says. “Of course<br />
there are moments to be serious,<br />
but I try and be the best version of<br />
me at all times.”<br />
“If you want to make it<br />
big, there’s no time to<br />
be a shrinking violet!”<br />
Craig Chapman<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 31
<strong>The</strong> young<br />
and the restless<br />
Young consumers are used to doing it themselves – but<br />
these salons are winning them over and into their chairs…<br />
VOODOU,<br />
Liverpool<br />
@voodouliverpool<br />
General manager Victoria Buckley<br />
and founder Rob Webb<br />
“We’re passionate about being individual<br />
and we encourage that in our stylists”<br />
Victoria Buckley<br />
32 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
YOUNG AND RESTLESS<br />
Never stand still and constantly<br />
reinvent yourself, that’s the drive<br />
that underpins the brilliantly<br />
buzzy Voodou in Liverpool. From unicorn<br />
colours to super-long extensions, Voodou<br />
is a firm favourite among the beautyobsessed<br />
from Bootle and beyond. “We’re<br />
not afraid to experiment and one of our<br />
greatest strengths as a salon is that we<br />
have an large team with differing skills,”<br />
says general manager, Victoria Buckley.<br />
“We collaborate to make sure those<br />
skills and experiences are drawn upon to<br />
achieve the best results for each client.”<br />
For customers who want hair that<br />
inspires Instagram envy, Voodou has it<br />
covered. “Our social media and online<br />
presence has been strong for sometime,<br />
and at the heart of that is our Instagram<br />
account, which shows off the amazing<br />
talent in Voodou,” says Victoria. “It’s a<br />
massively important reference point for<br />
younger clients seeking inspiration and<br />
reassurance about a hairdressing brand.”<br />
She admits that the social side has<br />
been “a massive learning curve”. “<strong>The</strong><br />
key is to keep on top of new platforms<br />
and new techniques,” she explains.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> biggest challenge for any salon is<br />
getting the stylist to understand how<br />
important social media is to building their<br />
own columns. Generally, the 18-30 age<br />
group no longer Google for salons; they<br />
search out salons on Instagram, so you<br />
need images and videos and the stylists<br />
need to be up for providing that. We have<br />
been lucky that stylists have got on board<br />
and have amazing work to show off.”<br />
It’s that obsession with creative work<br />
and reinvention that Victoria believes<br />
puts them ahead of their rivals. “We’re<br />
passionate about being individual and<br />
we encourage that in our stylists and our<br />
clients,” she says. “Where others may<br />
see ‘challenge’ we see ‘opportunity’. We<br />
are fearless – people seek us out for that<br />
ultimate transformation because they<br />
trust us to get it right.” And that’s where<br />
Redken is the perfect partner – Victoria<br />
loves the cool New York vibe and its sense<br />
of ‘can-do’. “It’s a great brand fit for us.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 33
Adam Reed (left) and Paul Percival<br />
PERCY AND REED EAST,<br />
Spitalfields<br />
@percyandreedsalons<br />
A<br />
salon experience that seamlessly<br />
fuses some serious cut and colour<br />
know-how with a laid-back,<br />
effortlessly cool vibe befitting of an East<br />
London postcode – welcome to Percy<br />
& Reed East, the second salon in Paul<br />
Percival and Adam Reed’s hair empire.<br />
East, in the bustling Spitalfields<br />
area, followed five years after the launch<br />
of West, in Great Portland Street. “We<br />
wanted to head to East London because<br />
that’s where I did most of my original<br />
creative work – there are so many<br />
photographic studios around here,” says<br />
Adam. With bags of character, the decor is<br />
retro yet slick, with many of the trademark<br />
characteristics remaining from its time<br />
spent as a base for tomato and banana<br />
merchants (like the colour accents and the<br />
air-holes still in the walls, which used to<br />
circulate air to keep the fruit fresh).<br />
It’s eminently Instagrammable, which<br />
has no doubt won the attention of local<br />
young hipsters when making their choice<br />
of salon to visit. Yet individual touches<br />
dotted around the salon remove all traces<br />
of pretentiousness, such as the selection<br />
of Adam’s personal book collection on the<br />
“Why Redken? <strong>The</strong>y’re bloody<br />
great products, that’s why! We<br />
love the connection with Guido<br />
and how he’s genuinely involved<br />
in product development”<br />
Paul Percival and Adam Reed<br />
shelves, the entertaining graffiti quotes<br />
on various parts of the furnishings and<br />
various childhood mementos (though it’s<br />
the bathroom that steals the limelight,<br />
with its eclectic selection of framed,<br />
vintage, kooky pictures that are certainly<br />
worth a look at). And it’s deeply personal:<br />
look around and you’ll spot the wigs Percy<br />
& Reed created for the L’Oréal Colour<br />
Trophy Grand Final show, and there’s a<br />
huge chair presented as a gift from the<br />
singer Will Young.<br />
Why did Paul and Adam chose to<br />
partner with Redken at Percy & Reed<br />
East? “<strong>The</strong>y’re bloody great products,<br />
that’s why!” they chorus. “We love<br />
the connection with Guido and how<br />
he’s genuinely involved in product<br />
development,” continues Adam. “Redken<br />
is a brand that’s packed with integrity<br />
and authenticity.”<br />
“<strong>The</strong>re’s real innovation,” adds Paul.<br />
“Redken understands the consumer and<br />
intuitively knows what product they’re<br />
going to want next.”<br />
34 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
YOUNG AND RESTLESS<br />
WIGS AND WARPAINT,<br />
Sheffield<br />
@wigsandwarpaint<br />
You can tell from the decidedly<br />
retro logo of Yorkshire salon Wigs<br />
and Warpaint that this isn’t your<br />
average hairdressers. In the bustling city<br />
of Sheffield, it has firmly established itself<br />
over the past decade as a fun, creative<br />
destination for all things hair, and that’s all<br />
been designed with the client in mind. “It<br />
can be quite intimidating, coming into a<br />
big salon,” admits Claire Flack, the salon’s<br />
creative and managing director. “You<br />
know from our styling that we’re fun and<br />
vibrant – and it all works for the client.”<br />
And while that customer base covers<br />
all ages, there is a wealth of younger<br />
“You know from our<br />
styling that we’re fun,<br />
we’re vibrant – and it all<br />
works for the client”<br />
Claire Flack<br />
clients; Sheffield is a thriving student<br />
hub, home to two large universities. <strong>The</strong><br />
salon celebrated its 10th anniversary by<br />
collaborating on a fashion show with<br />
students from Sheffield Hallam – Wigs<br />
and Warpaint looked after the hair as<br />
models hit the catwalk, sporting garments<br />
from fashion students as well as a local<br />
designer. It’s this kind of activity that<br />
helps the salon stand out. “With our<br />
system we can tailor deals as we need<br />
to, such as when a stylist is quiet, we can<br />
really target them.”<br />
If those younger clients are working<br />
to a budget, there are plenty of bespoke<br />
services to suit them. “<strong>The</strong> new Flash Lift<br />
Express Blonde from Redken is a quicker<br />
highlighting service for which we can<br />
charge a little bit less,” explains Claire.<br />
“Technique and toners play their part<br />
too – all services you can’t get in a box at<br />
home. “We’re always trying to think up<br />
cute little names for the tones we use, and<br />
make that service as personal as we can<br />
for that customer,” Claire adds.<br />
And naturally, all these tones and<br />
techniques are shared on its social media.<br />
“We want people to get a feel for the<br />
salon, rather than just seeing beautiful,<br />
professional pictures. We show the salon<br />
inside, the team, what we’re all doing,<br />
real customers…” Like plenty of the local<br />
students, we like what we see.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 35
Redken Symposium<br />
Learn, earn<br />
and live better<br />
Your school days might be behind you, but to keep growing and improving, education is key.<br />
<strong>The</strong> right course or mentor can make all the difference in your career trajectory, so when you<br />
pick an education partner, make sure you pick a brand that’s as unique as you<br />
Michael Jackson once said that<br />
“the greatest education in the<br />
world is watching the masters<br />
at work” – a perfect maxim for stylists<br />
and colourists. And in the world of hair,<br />
education can mean so much more than a<br />
teacher and a classroom. It can offer you<br />
opportunities to not just broaden your<br />
mind, but potentially travel the world, too.<br />
Salon owner, Michelle Marshall found<br />
this when she attended the International<br />
Redken Artist Connection. <strong>The</strong> threeday<br />
education event brings together 800<br />
Redken artists from around the world and<br />
focuses on everything from the business<br />
of colouring to lifestyle and wellbeing.<br />
This year’s event took place in Austin,<br />
Texas and left Michelle feeling “really fired<br />
up and refreshed”. Opportunities to travel<br />
and experience new ways of learning<br />
are just a small part of what is on offer<br />
to salons. Forward-thinking brands are<br />
those on a mission to work with industry<br />
innovators and businesses that bring a<br />
fresh approach to hairdressing to then<br />
filter this down to the salons and stylists.<br />
But what makes Redken education so<br />
different? Primarily it’s principles-based.<br />
This means that its principles guide how<br />
the brand approaches training. <strong>The</strong> brand<br />
wants to help you Learn Better, Earn<br />
Better and Live Better, and its range of<br />
courses reflects this.<br />
“I’ve been supported<br />
every step of the way…<br />
It’s thanks to Redken’s<br />
commitment that<br />
I’m the hairdresser<br />
I am today”<br />
Kelly Scott<br />
<strong>The</strong> strong heritage of Redken means<br />
that it understands how transforming<br />
education can be, and its tribe of regional<br />
heroes running courses up and down the<br />
country drive home this message.<br />
“In a Redken classroom they will<br />
encourage you to ask a question early on,<br />
and they will make you feel very special.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y throw it back to the whole room<br />
and that brings the room alive,” says Lee<br />
Stafford, educator and Redken global<br />
artist. “It’s really about coaching and<br />
facilitation, Redken believes the answer<br />
is in the room.”<br />
Global artists<br />
AJ Blackadder is a Redken Tribe member<br />
and has spent the past 18 months being<br />
mentored by Redken in New York<br />
and London’s Redken Exchanges, as<br />
part of the brand’s Global Mentoring<br />
36 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
EDUCATION<br />
Kelly Scott<br />
Programme. “It’s been an amazing and, at<br />
times, challenging course, but I’ve learnt<br />
so much to help me educate, present and<br />
facilitate to an international standard that<br />
Redken artists use worldwide,” says AJ. “It’s<br />
been great to be the student and embrace a new<br />
way of doing something I’ve had the privilege of doing<br />
for decades.”<br />
AJ attends as many educational opportunities as<br />
possible. “You’re exposed to a variety of education<br />
and events that Redken offers. Whether it’s design or<br />
colouring, new product launches and updates, guest<br />
artist events, such as when Guido and Josh Wood did<br />
Creative HEAD’s <strong>The</strong> Coterie last year, European and<br />
Las Vegas Symposiums right through to fundamental<br />
and advanced specialist programmes; there’s courses,<br />
events and coaching for everyone,” he adds.<br />
Symposium<br />
But learning doesn’t stop there, as Michelle Marshall<br />
discovered when she attended the Redken Symposium<br />
in Las Vegas. <strong>The</strong> Symposium is a chance for Redken<br />
stylists from all over the world to get together and<br />
learn, network and be inspired by some of the most<br />
sought-after educators in the world.<br />
“I had the opportunity to meet with the<br />
ambassadors for the brand, while attending a variety of<br />
educational seminars,” explains Michelle. “It completely<br />
opened my eyes to what you can do and how you can<br />
work as a team. I came back stronger and better.”<br />
Personalisation<br />
Learning happens everywhere – in the classroom, at<br />
events, but also in your salon. Bespoke in-salon training<br />
is perfect for those that don’t want to sing from the<br />
same hymn sheet as everyone else. Redken offers you<br />
the opportunity to tailor your education to exactly what<br />
you and your team need, on a rolling monthly basis.<br />
In-salon education can offer you and your salon the<br />
chance to receive targeted knowledge, helping to fill in<br />
any gaps in your team’s skills repertoire.<br />
Keith Owen from Owen Hair Design teaches<br />
Redken courses more than he attends them now, but<br />
he still tries to ensure the salon team receives in-salon<br />
training from Redken whenever possible. “We prefer to<br />
get the whole team involved with training, and it’s easier<br />
and more cost effective to do it in-salon,” he says.<br />
Cost is a key consideration. For salons with already<br />
stretched budgets, education is often the first thing<br />
to go. Not only is it time out of the salon, but not all<br />
courses turn out to be as relevant as initially hoped.<br />
With in-salon training, you have the opportunity to<br />
hand-pick the courses you want your team to get clued<br />
up on, while bringing the costs more in-line with your<br />
budget. No matter what, never stop learning. Start your<br />
training today, for a better, brighter future.<br />
Kelly Scott, artistic director<br />
at Strands Hairdressing and<br />
Redken global artist, reveals<br />
how far Redken can take you<br />
“I HAD MY FIRST experience of<br />
Redken education when I was just 16<br />
years old. It was a product knowledge<br />
class and I had no idea how far I would<br />
come or the opportunities that awaited<br />
me back then. As my career developed,<br />
Redken has always been present.<br />
I attended my first Redken<br />
Symposium when I was 21 and that is<br />
what changed everything for me. I was<br />
a senior stylist confident in my craft<br />
and I wanted to get on that stage and be<br />
an international Redken artist.<br />
Since then, I’ve been supported<br />
every step of the way by Redken. I teach<br />
at Redken’s London and Manchester<br />
Exchanges, as well as at New York’s<br />
Exchange on 5th Avenue. I also provide<br />
personalised in-salon training, I’ve<br />
travelled across the world for the<br />
brand and met and worked with some<br />
truly great and inspiring people. I’ve<br />
also presented on stage for many<br />
of Redken’s big events. We are now<br />
planning 2019’s Symposium – it’s going<br />
to be amazing and I can’t wait.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> thing I love most about<br />
Redken education is that it’s learningfocused.<br />
It’s all about the people<br />
that come to your classes. Helping<br />
them achieve their outcomes, giving<br />
them new methods that will help them<br />
be better at what they do every day.<br />
It’s all in the motto ‘Learn Better, Earn<br />
Better so you can Live your Best Life.’<br />
Redken also has a great programme to<br />
support its artists.<br />
“We all support each other, we are<br />
responsible for each other and just as I<br />
want to do my best work, so do others.<br />
It’s thanks to Redken’s commitment<br />
that I’m the hairdresser I am today.”<br />
DIARY DATES<br />
THE THREE KEY REDKEN<br />
COURSES TO INCLUDE IN<br />
YOUR EDUCATION CALENDAR<br />
Creative Business<br />
Coaching Journey with<br />
Carolyn Sweeney<br />
On this four-day course, salon<br />
owners and managers will learn how<br />
to motivate stylists to increase clients<br />
bills, additional services and retail.<br />
4You can also attend individual dates<br />
as standalone sessions.<br />
When and where:<br />
5 September, 26 September,<br />
23 October, 14 November,<br />
London<br />
Your Future Color – with<br />
international Redken artist<br />
AJ Blackadder<br />
Discover how to plan, progress and<br />
evolve your client’s colour journey,<br />
while reigniting your passion for<br />
colour and growing your clientele.<br />
When and where:<br />
15 October, London<br />
Game of Blondes with<br />
Kelly Scott and adam browne<br />
This two-day course comes straight<br />
from NYC and will give you all the<br />
tips and tricks you need. Learn<br />
how to identify the products and<br />
techniques to make your blondes<br />
the very best.<br />
When and where:<br />
22 and 23 October, London<br />
TO BOOK, VISIT<br />
LOREALACCESS.COM/UK<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 37
RECRUITMENT<br />
WANT TO BE<br />
DIFFERENT?<br />
DO YOU WANT TO BE PART OF A DYNAMIC BRAND<br />
COMMITTED TO INDUSTRY INNOVATION?<br />
DO YOU WANT TO BE PART OF AN EXCITING<br />
NEW MOVEMENT IN HAIR?<br />
WANT TO LEARN, EARN AND LIVE BETTER?<br />
IF THIS IS YOU,<br />
REDKEN WANTS YOU<br />
Redken is exploding. We are looking for talented, modern industry<br />
enthusiasts to join our Tribe in Commercial and Education roles nationwide.<br />
WANT TO BE A PART OF IT?<br />
Get in touch today. Email us at info.redken@loreal.com to find out more.
HERE COME THE GELS...<br />
THE REDKEN COLOR REVOLUTION STARTS HERE!<br />
DISCOVER THE NEW LIQUID LACQUERS THAT<br />
ARE REINVENTING PERMANENT HAIR COLOR!<br />
WITH ADAM BROWNE, INTERNATIONAL REDKEN ARTIST<br />
EVENT<br />
Join Adam and other leading industry influencers for inspirational<br />
nights of color, with live model transformations and techniques.<br />
EVENT DATES:<br />
10 TH SEPTEMBER – LONDON<br />
17 TH SEPTEMBER – MANCHESTER<br />
24 TH SEPTEMBER – BRISTOL<br />
WANT TO BE A PART OF IT?<br />
Contact your Sales Consultant to book an event.<br />
Not Redken? Want to find out more? Contact info.redken@loreal.com
Local<br />
heroes<br />
Beyond London and the UK’s biggest<br />
cities there are booming salon<br />
businesses that have blossomed over<br />
decades. What’s the secret to their<br />
continuing success? Let’s find out…<br />
“We’ve had some clients bring in<br />
children for their first haircuts…<br />
and now they’re bringing in their<br />
own children!”<br />
David Hyde<br />
David Anthony,<br />
Portsmouth<br />
“THE SECRET IS the team,<br />
admits David Hyde, founder of<br />
37-year-old David Anthony salon<br />
in Portsmouth. That’s what he<br />
puts his success down to – with<br />
five colleagues who have been<br />
with him for more than 25 years,<br />
it’s a consistency that clients love,<br />
a continuity. “<strong>The</strong>y know our<br />
faces, so our clients do feel like<br />
they’re coming into a family,” he<br />
smiles. “<strong>The</strong>re’s a lovely closeness.<br />
We’ve had some clients bring in<br />
children for their first haircuts…<br />
and now they’re bringing in their<br />
own children! It’s lovely.”<br />
Having been laser-focused to<br />
own his own salon by the age of 21,<br />
David worked hard and saved even<br />
harder to achieve that goal, with<br />
two months to spare. “I’m very<br />
driven, and you’ve got to move<br />
with the times,” he admits. “I still<br />
train, attend launches, and that is<br />
part of it – I enjoy that. It’s very<br />
easy in hairdressing to fall behind.”<br />
Education is a priority, and<br />
it’s here that his product partner<br />
of 25 years, Redken, has excelled.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> support we get from Redken<br />
is immense; we’re not a London<br />
salon and through Redken we<br />
get to work with names I don’t<br />
think we’d see otherwise, like Lee<br />
Stafford and AJ Blackadder. And<br />
they come to us, spending a whole<br />
day with the team. It’s brilliant.”<br />
And the family vibe isn’t<br />
confined to the salon. “Redken<br />
feels like part of the team, we’re<br />
part of a tribe,” he says fondly.<br />
“We go to events and we know the<br />
other salons there, and there’s no<br />
rivalry. We’re all in it together.”<br />
40 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
LOCAL HEROES<br />
Aesthetics,<br />
Solihull<br />
THE EXCITEMENT with which<br />
Sarah Bowron, co-founder of<br />
Aesthetics with partner Adrian<br />
Bowron, approaches her brand<br />
and her team is palpable. “We’re<br />
always looking ahead – what’s<br />
done is done,” she says bluntly.<br />
Recognising how time-poor<br />
people are now, Aesthetics wants<br />
to ensure “clients are enjoying<br />
their time with us, and that they’ll<br />
leave buzzing with new ideas – not<br />
just hair, but how we’ve done the<br />
flowers or the coffee”. Sarah puts<br />
the brand’s longevity down to<br />
being authentic and doing really,<br />
really good hair. Training has also<br />
been vital. “We invest massively in<br />
our team, have regular meetings<br />
and ‘play dates’. Every salon owner<br />
knows you are only as good as the<br />
people you’re working with.”<br />
Retail has also been a huge<br />
success (a change in pricing<br />
strategy has seen sales rise £6,000<br />
in its first two months), and Sarah<br />
stresses the importance of value.<br />
“When you get to front of house,<br />
the bill can look expensive. A<br />
complimentary bottle of Redken<br />
shampoo and conditioner softens<br />
it,” she explains. “<strong>The</strong> client’s<br />
perceived value is way higher than<br />
the actual value to the salon, and<br />
that’s a £150 or more colour or<br />
extensions service for the salon, so<br />
it’s a win-win.”<br />
“Every salon owner<br />
knows you are only<br />
as good as the people<br />
you’re working with”<br />
Sarah Bowron<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 41
Creations,<br />
Chichester<br />
“IF YOU cut me, CAT comes<br />
out of my veins! I’m Redken for<br />
life!” Carolyn Sweeney’s laugh<br />
is infectious; a warmth and<br />
intelligence radiate from her as<br />
she discusses her 20-year-old<br />
salon, and her adored team, 80<br />
per cent of whom have been with<br />
her for more than 10 years. And<br />
it’s the team she cites as the secret<br />
of Creations’ success. “If you<br />
don’t keep educating and get the<br />
team right, you won’t have client<br />
longevity,” she says simply.<br />
But it’s also about cash flow,<br />
she adds, and being in control of<br />
your own finances. “We all have<br />
good and bad times, but cash is<br />
king. You’ve got to make sure that<br />
the money is in the bank before<br />
you invest in anything. And the<br />
team needs to know that – if they<br />
want education or new basins,<br />
the money has to come from<br />
somewhere,” she says. As soon<br />
as someone graduates from the<br />
Creations Academy, they’re<br />
expected to attend three Redken<br />
colour courses – Highlights, Color<br />
ER and Principals of Color, to<br />
ensure everyone is fully immersed<br />
in the world of Redken colour.<br />
It’s this level of skill and craft<br />
that Carolyn believes should be<br />
pushing salon owners to increase<br />
their prices. “Our industry still<br />
desperately under-charges for<br />
what we do. Deliver beautiful<br />
hairdressing and charge for what<br />
you deliver… and stop being<br />
scared. Aren’t you better off with<br />
one haircut at £50 than two cuts<br />
at £25? <strong>The</strong>re is no other industry<br />
holding prices down like ours!”<br />
“If you don’t keep educating<br />
and get the team right, you<br />
won’t have client longevity”<br />
Carolyn Sweeney<br />
42 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
LOCAL HEROES<br />
Strands<br />
Hairdressing,<br />
Fareham<br />
“THERE’S NO SECRET – it’s just<br />
doing it!” exclaims Pauline Howe,<br />
the brains behind Hampshire’s<br />
Strands Hairdressing salons, when<br />
asked about her success. Strands<br />
is now 31 years old and a prime<br />
example of a regional salon that<br />
thinks big (just ask Kelly Scott, a<br />
global Redken artist who works<br />
here). “Sometimes people think<br />
you’ll open the doors and it’ll be<br />
a success overnight, but business<br />
isn’t like that,” she laughs. “If you<br />
do something that you really like,<br />
and you do it for long enough,<br />
you’ll be successful. ”<br />
It’s that work ethic that hums<br />
along in Strands. “You and your<br />
staff need to keep up-to-date with<br />
the industry and trends, because<br />
things are always moving. As I get<br />
older, I have to ensure my salon<br />
stays top in the area, that people<br />
want to talk about and visit.”<br />
How does she do it? “You<br />
need to read magazines like<br />
Creative HEAD and attend events.<br />
It is difficult to stay interested and<br />
motivated. Sometimes I’m guilty<br />
of thinking ‘I’ve done that before’,<br />
but the young stylists in the salon<br />
haven’t. You need to feed from<br />
their enthusiasm.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> choice of brand partner<br />
has also been instrumental.<br />
“Choose one that fits your salon,<br />
develop a really good relationship.<br />
For us, this is Redken,” she adds.<br />
“You and your staff<br />
need to keep up-to-date<br />
with the industry and<br />
trends, because things<br />
are always moving”<br />
Pauline Howe<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 43
BRIGHT IDEA<br />
<strong>The</strong> Ear Candy Styling Menu<br />
Chelsea favourites Lockonego London collaborate with Redken on a<br />
styling menu that’s bang on trend with the piercing craze, and perfect<br />
for any party those chic Sloanes will be attending…<br />
Side Sweep<br />
<strong>The</strong> Slick<br />
44 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
BRIGHT IDEA<br />
WANNA BE ADORNED? Any<br />
glance across Instagram will<br />
illustrate the worth of a statement<br />
earring – US jeweller Maria Tash<br />
launched her piercing palace in<br />
London’s iconic Liberty and<br />
Milan Fashion Week catwalks<br />
were heaving with earrings (we’re<br />
looking at you, Versace and Dolce<br />
& Gabbana). So, if your clients<br />
have spent their pounds piercing<br />
up a storm, they’ll want to show<br />
off that bling. Enter statement<br />
hair from Chelsea favourites<br />
Lockonego London and its Ear<br />
Candy menu, by salon co-founder<br />
Jonathan Long (pictured inset).<br />
Perfect for those with<br />
exhibitionistic ears and look-atme<br />
lobes, the menu uses iconic<br />
backstage styling products from<br />
Redken to create inspirational<br />
styles that are adaptable to a<br />
client’s hair texture and length.<br />
It’s a great example of a business<br />
bringing a wider trend into a<br />
salon, and spot-on for party looks<br />
(plenty of those in Chelsea).<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are four styles that<br />
will give any ear the exposure<br />
it deserves, with prices starting<br />
from £35. But what to choose?<br />
Side Sweep is inspired by the ’90s<br />
Super, a deep side-parting with<br />
undone luxe waves exposing<br />
your one-sided ear candy, while<br />
<strong>The</strong> Slick is a contrasting<br />
collaboration – wet up front,<br />
dry and textured at the back,<br />
with hair tucked behind both ears<br />
to display adorned lobes. <strong>The</strong><br />
Braided Bun is a ‘3-in-1’ up-do<br />
pinned into place with jewels<br />
on show, while Sideshow Bob<br />
celebrates a classic blunt bob cut<br />
with personality. Time to get your<br />
rocks on…<br />
Braided Bun<br />
Sideshow Bob<br />
“Perfect for those with exhibitionistic ears and look-at-me<br />
lobes, the menu uses iconic backstage styling products from<br />
Redken to create inspirational styles”<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 45
“We have opened up our retail<br />
area so clients feel free to look,<br />
touch and feel the products, and<br />
this has worked wonderfully”<br />
Jonathan Long, Lockonego<br />
Let’s get emotional<br />
<strong>The</strong> high street needs to rethink how it engages consumers if it wants them to keep spending.<br />
We investigate how to get people through the salon doors… and wow them while they’re there!<br />
<strong>The</strong> UK high street is an increasingly<br />
tough place to operate. Today,<br />
200,000 fewer women are walking<br />
into hair salons compared with a year<br />
ago.* With a saturated market, rising<br />
online players and declining visits, the<br />
in-person experience has never been more<br />
valuable. Consider the journey of your<br />
client through her appointment with you,<br />
and it might just make all the difference.<br />
Creating a space that people want<br />
to visit – to linger and relax in – makes<br />
a big difference to loyalty, to trust and<br />
to spend. Novelty and service challenge<br />
that loyalty; it means that the pressure<br />
is on salons to stay relevant for their<br />
clients. L’Oréal Professional Product<br />
Division’s transformative Salon Emotion<br />
programme has targeted a similar agenda.<br />
It’s about offering training and raising<br />
awareness of services, personalised<br />
advice and guidance on modernising<br />
salons; providing more services and more<br />
personalisation throughout a client’s<br />
journey through the salon at every<br />
possible touchpoint.<br />
When Chelsea’s Lockonego suffered<br />
a flood, co-founder Jonathan Long used<br />
it as an opportunity to revamp the salon’s<br />
concept from scratch. “We worked with<br />
Salon Emotion and the designer to plan<br />
out the retail, backwash and mask bar<br />
concepts,” explains Jonathan. “We came<br />
up with a concept: a private members<br />
club/gastro pub vibe. It has bare brick,<br />
parquet floor, wood panels, splashes of<br />
colour... but, most of all, a salon that didn’t<br />
look like a traditional salon, a really light<br />
and open environment.”<br />
At Blend in Derby, Jo Pilbeam’s<br />
experience with the programme has<br />
helped her future-proof her salon against<br />
online retail. “Salon Emotion was great<br />
at helping us to create a proper client<br />
journey. We like to get the clients involved<br />
by touching and smelling products on our<br />
Try Me Table, where you can have a play.<br />
Creating a retail area has been great for<br />
customer experience, and makes it feel<br />
like a retail shop.”<br />
But how to get people through<br />
the salon door in the first place? It’s a<br />
challenge. <strong>The</strong> average attention span has<br />
dropped from 12 seconds to just eight.*<br />
Lockonego<br />
46 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
RETAIL<br />
“Digital windows are so<br />
attention grabbing. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
really stop passers-by in<br />
their tracks and show off<br />
the latest hair trends and<br />
new products”<br />
Standing out on the high street is vital<br />
to salon survival. A key innovation that’s<br />
making a real impact is motion windows,<br />
a powerful way to modernise your salon<br />
window display (Lockonego now has one<br />
in its Kings Road location).<br />
“Our digital windows are so attention<br />
grabbing. <strong>The</strong>y really stop passers-by in<br />
their tracks and show off the latest hair<br />
trends and new products,” says Andrew<br />
Rodgers, founder of Funky Divas salons<br />
in Sheffield. On a practical front, it also<br />
makes it easier to change your visuals<br />
regularly and keep your messages and<br />
images fresh, and the movement helps<br />
attract more attention.<br />
In retail research, digital posters<br />
have proved to be six-times more visible<br />
and attract up to 33 per cent more new<br />
customers.* More than three-quarters of<br />
customers are influenced by videos at the<br />
point of sale, too.<br />
Some of it is about hitting your basic<br />
points – can your salon be found easily<br />
online, and does it look incredible? Is<br />
offering clear to potential customers? Are<br />
key products on display, with star goodies<br />
shown ? Are you encouraging clients<br />
to share their finished looks and leave<br />
gushingly good reviews of your team ?<br />
An incredible 68 per cent of women<br />
feel anxious entering the salon for the first<br />
time,* so you want to be as encouraging<br />
and inviting as possible.<br />
And make any kind of wait as<br />
enjoyable as possible – our obsession with<br />
coffee is a great place to start. Radio Hair<br />
in King’s Cross and Sheffield’s Laundry<br />
include barista-hosted coffee areas in their<br />
salons, elevating the customer experience<br />
in a sensorial, modern way.<br />
One of the main steps in Salon<br />
Emotion is the consultation. While some<br />
salons will carry this out at the styling<br />
station, it’s worth considering a<br />
dedicated area with two chairs to allow<br />
a true ‘face to face’ consultation – no<br />
mirror-based conversations.<br />
Here, you can bring the discussion<br />
alive with diagnosis tools, service menus,<br />
colour charts and even iPads loaded up<br />
with Pinterest boards or even an app that<br />
help clients visualise key looks on a selfie.<br />
Redken even updates a Pinterest page<br />
(@RedkenUKI) for a brilliant array of<br />
looks, and Josh Wood is well-known for<br />
reaching for Pinterest boards for his insalon<br />
consultations.<br />
Consultations are also brilliant<br />
at helping sell products – in fact, 90<br />
per cent of the sale is made during the<br />
consultation.* How? Because this is<br />
where a hairdresser can illustrate their<br />
knowledge and expertise, and genuinely<br />
recommend the perfect matches to each<br />
guest sat chatting to them.<br />
A vital element of this is the notion<br />
of ‘retailment’, showcasing your skills<br />
in front of your customer, use tools to<br />
diagnose the ideal treatment and prescribe<br />
a homecare regime. It’s also about creating<br />
moments of theatre to thrill and excite.<br />
<strong>The</strong> colour bar is a chance to<br />
showcase what makes you different. And<br />
with 86 per cent of women citing this as<br />
their favourite moment in salon, it’s an<br />
element to get everything spot on.<br />
Laundry<br />
*TNS study on ‘women and hairstylists’ in four<br />
countries 2012, data client wave panel UK 2012<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 47
Live True communal colour consultation tables<br />
Lockonego<br />
If it’s not right, 70 per cent of women<br />
say they won’t return.*<br />
<strong>The</strong> back bar needs to be located in<br />
a quieter area, separate from the buzzy<br />
salon atmosphere. Think dimmable lights,<br />
a partition wall or even a separate room<br />
for more relaxation. It’s a great place to<br />
add some branding, with products on<br />
clear display alongside treatment menus.<br />
Of course, clients don’t want to invest<br />
in salon appointments and products if<br />
they can’t reproduce the look they love<br />
at home. Recent studies have shown that<br />
consumers really trust their hairdresser<br />
and will buy into a recommendation,<br />
regardless of price.<br />
Indeed, this recommendation<br />
approach seems to be what clients are<br />
missing – 54 per cent of customers don’t<br />
buy because ‘nothing was recommended’.*<br />
Only 8 per cent said that price was the<br />
issue.* With merchandising tools and a<br />
fresh strategy, your staff won’t need to<br />
apply the hard sell. Perhaps a communal<br />
table without a mirror where customers<br />
can relax, read, use iPads or test products,<br />
is worth considering.<br />
At Lockonego, Jonathan knew he<br />
wanted to expand and adapt his retail<br />
offering to create a more involved<br />
experience. “We have opened up our<br />
retail area so clients feel free to touch and<br />
feel the products, and this has worked<br />
wonderfully for us. Sales are up<br />
15 per cent,” he explains. “<strong>The</strong> mask<br />
bar has been successful as it gets the<br />
conversation started, and we can create<br />
bespoke treatments for each individual<br />
client. We introduced a new way of taking<br />
bills that has also improved our sales.”<br />
Retail areas at George Northwood<br />
and <strong>The</strong> Chapel are stand- out examples<br />
– visible and accessible. Clear pricing and<br />
navigation for self-service are important<br />
too. Redken has created shelf talkers,<br />
designed in the language that people<br />
search in – think ‘for coloured hair’ and<br />
‘for flat hair’, alongside clipper card stands<br />
that call out ‘#trending’, ‘best sellers’, and<br />
‘new arrivals’. This helps close the loop on<br />
all the buzz clients will have seen about<br />
Redken products across social media,<br />
particularly from influencers.<br />
Salon events where clients can try<br />
out services and products can also have a<br />
feel good boost on retail sales and client<br />
engagement. A great example is the Big<br />
Hair Do, where 100 salons open their<br />
doors for one night in September.<br />
Finally, once that client is finished and<br />
looking fabulous in your chair, get them<br />
to share.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> power of the selfie today on<br />
social media is huge – and it’s a fantastic<br />
advertisement for your staff’s skills.<br />
So think about getting those selfies on<br />
point,” advises Melissa Fernandez, UK and<br />
Ireland general manager for Redken.<br />
Eleven Hair has designed a 3D flower<br />
wall for clients to capture their selfie<br />
looks, while Liverpool’s Voodou has<br />
a neon ‘Fit Hair’ light, as well as selfie<br />
backdrop. No wonder an increasingly<br />
standard piece of kit in the salon is a ring<br />
light, for the most flattering light possible.<br />
*TNS study on ‘women and hairstylists’ in four<br />
countries 2012, data client wave panel UK 2012<br />
48 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
RETAIL<br />
Innovation<br />
BRINGING IN NEW PRODUCTS<br />
that can catch the customer’s eye<br />
is still the easiest way to ramp up<br />
retail within salons. Redken has won<br />
more awards for its products than<br />
any other professional brand, and<br />
for good reason. Forward-thinking<br />
and progressive, Redken’s strong<br />
scientific heritage<br />
means that it is<br />
always pushing<br />
the boundaries<br />
and expectations<br />
of what can<br />
be created. Its<br />
Korean-inspired<br />
All Soft Mega<br />
Sheet Mask has<br />
that element of<br />
play and fun which<br />
is so crucial when<br />
introducing clients<br />
to something new.<br />
It’s the perfect little packet to keep<br />
at the reception desk, curious clients<br />
will find it a little bit intriguing and<br />
it offers the impulse purchasing that<br />
so many high street fashion retailers<br />
do so well! Also concerned with the<br />
health of hair in an age of bleaching<br />
and processing (thanks Instagram!)<br />
is the new Color Extend Blondage<br />
care line, developed in response to<br />
hairdresser demand for a purplepigmented<br />
shampoo within the<br />
Redken portfolio. It ticks a big box<br />
in terms of customer demand,<br />
addressing a huge search trend for<br />
how to solve brassiness and breakage<br />
in super blonde hair. Meanwhile<br />
the recent launch of the Redken<br />
Brews range for men similarly<br />
invokes familiarity and ease, with its<br />
beer-bottle shapes and malt-infused<br />
formulas, underpinned by the range’s<br />
scientific credentials. Redken Brews’<br />
new Cut & Camo service offers<br />
the perfect blend of quick colour,<br />
in just five minutes, and a fresh<br />
cut – more services and less time<br />
required means smarter sales. With<br />
more and more designers wanting an<br />
artfully undone look, Redken global<br />
creative director, Guido Palau,<br />
was frustrated that nothing he had in<br />
his kit seemed to create the desired<br />
effect. <strong>The</strong> Redken No Blow Dry Air<br />
Stylers are the result of his work<br />
with the brand’s innovation team to<br />
create products for the perfect air<br />
dry look, no matter the hair texture.<br />
While created with a fashion angle,<br />
the rising popularity of natural hair<br />
texture creates that link to your<br />
client, bringing the creative ideas of<br />
the catwalk to the salon.<br />
Voodou<br />
Staying on top of current trends –<br />
especially wider beauty trends rather than<br />
just the latest in hair – can also serve as<br />
a distinct way to stand out among peers.<br />
Lockonego’s new Ear Candy styles (see<br />
page 44) have been designed to show<br />
off the statement earring trend seen<br />
across the catwalks. Other key trends to<br />
pick up on include blow-dry bars for the<br />
athleisure trend and the always-switchedon<br />
city types, the rise of vegan or natural<br />
ingredients and environmentally-friendly<br />
packaging, or even skincare-inspired<br />
ingredients and formulations such as scalp<br />
scrubs. Successful salon retail, like the best<br />
ideas, cannot flourish in a vacuum.<br />
Eleven Hair<br />
WANT TO LEARN<br />
HOW TO REFOCUS<br />
YOUR CUSTOMER<br />
EXPERIENCE<br />
AND GROW YOUR<br />
BUSINESS?<br />
Redken will be hosting<br />
complimentary Salon<br />
Emotion events this<br />
October.<br />
To book, email<br />
info.redken@loreal.com<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 49
ONLINE BRANDING<br />
#OWNIT!<br />
GONE ARE THE times when you would send out a PR and marketing message<br />
and sit tight and wait for it to take off. With social media being an integral<br />
communication channel for modern day, thriving businesses, it’s possible to strike<br />
up lively, thought-provoking conversation in real-time. Mitchell Wilson, owner<br />
of Laundry in Sheffield, decided to promote his business by styling four looks in<br />
one day on the same client. “We wanted to illustrate that we are creative, using<br />
social media to share our work and push our brand to our clients, who actively<br />
follow and engage with us online,” he says. “<strong>The</strong>se types of ideas naturally require<br />
a lot of careful planning and coordination, but the real-time aspect of showing the<br />
transformation of one client across cutting, colouring and styling, proved really<br />
popular with our followers.” Social media allows you to constantly reinvent yourself<br />
as a business and create a unique brand identity in part shaped by the community<br />
you create – and Redken is the perfect brand partner for it.<br />
STANDING OUT ON SOCIAL MEDIA MEANS BUILDING A TRUSTED<br />
COMMUNITY THAT:<br />
● KNOWS WHO YOU ARE<br />
● LIKES WHO YOU ARE<br />
● LOVES WHAT YOUR BUSINESS IS ABOUT<br />
You need to own the story, think about the message and<br />
make it a true reflection of your business and you. Mitchell<br />
Wilson is keen to get disruptive and do more – how about you?<br />
#BEDIFFERENTBEREDKEN<br />
Hair by Mitchell Wilson for Laundry, assisted by Jake Richmond-Brough and Gareth McAughley. Photography by Nick Eagle<br />
50 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>
Emma Delury<br />
for Redken 5th Avenue<br />
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