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<strong>Outliers</strong><br />

THE<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> #01 2018<br />

<strong>The</strong> innovators and salons<br />

disrupting the status quo


WELCOME/CONTENTS<br />

<strong>Outliers</strong><br />

Definition: person(s) differing<br />

from all other members of a<br />

particular group or set<br />

Welcome<br />

I<br />

t’s not easy out there on the high street right now.<br />

Stores are closing; big name retail brands are<br />

disappearing. But there are reasons to be cheerful.<br />

For among the plethora of salons cross the UK and<br />

Ireland, there is an identifiable band of business brains<br />

that are bucking the trend, both new entrepreneurs and<br />

seasoned salon owners.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se are the progressive businesses that are<br />

influencing others, creating a buzz, proving themselves<br />

as industry innovators and tastemakers who want to<br />

illustrate a fresh approach to hairdressing. It’s an exciting<br />

time to be one of these salons – they’re killing it on<br />

Instagram with their technique- and trend-heavy content,<br />

they’re curating fashion-forward service menus to dazzle<br />

loyal and new clients alike, they’re challenging all those<br />

old rules of what a salon should look like, how they<br />

should behave. <strong>The</strong>y are the inspiration – cool, vibrant,<br />

business-savvy brands that took the salon model and<br />

flipped it 180 degrees. And the thread that unifies them<br />

all, part of one illustrious tribe, is their partner of choice<br />

in Redken, which itself combines a strong heritage in<br />

hairdressing with a fashion-edged pioneering spirit.<br />

Across these pages you’ll meet the individuals and<br />

the brands lighting up the industry and leading the way,<br />

beacons that illuminate just what is possible. From the<br />

urban-centric to adored regional heroes, different is<br />

what they all do, and they do it with aplomb.<br />

I hope you find something different that speaks to<br />

you, too.<br />

04<br />

14<br />

18<br />

20<br />

24<br />

26 Social life for your hair<br />

30<br />

How to make your salon Insta-worthy<br />

Cult of personality<br />

32<br />

36<br />

40<br />

44<br />

46<br />

50<br />

Contents<br />

Anti-salons<br />

<strong>The</strong> disruptors doing salons differently<br />

Brush strokes of genius<br />

We quiz the world’s leading colourists<br />

IDEA! Rogue Blonde<br />

<strong>The</strong> queens of colour show off their skills at Larry King<br />

<strong>The</strong> crown jewels<br />

Guido and Josh Wood make a statement at Marc Jacobs<br />

IDEA! Bronde, Blonde and Beyond…<br />

Radio London gets creative with its service menu<br />

Lee Stafford and Craig Chapman on thinking and acting big<br />

<strong>The</strong> young & the restless<br />

How to win over a new generation of consumers<br />

Learn, earn and live better<br />

Why education is the key to your career<br />

Local heroes<br />

<strong>The</strong> regional stars bringing style to the people<br />

IDEA! Ear Candy<br />

Lockonego showcases its earring-friendly styling menu<br />

Let’s get emotional<br />

Rethink your high street presence with Salon Emotion<br />

#OwnIt!<br />

How to really stand out on social media<br />

Amanda Nottage<br />

Editor<br />

EDITOR Amanda Nottage DEPUTY EDITOR Beth Davie ART Graeme White ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal<br />

CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood CONTRIBUTOR Deborah Murtha ADVERTISING Laura Tucker DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann<br />

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Alison Rowley SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER Jenny Brooks<br />

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR Joanna Andersen PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock<br />

Supplement produced in association with Redken. Commissioned portrait photography by Amy Cooke (amycooke.com).<br />

On the cover: Mitchell Wilson of Laundry, Sheffield, photography by Nick Eagle.<br />

CONTACT: Creative HEAD, 21 <strong>The</strong> Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> is a supplement of Creative HEAD, which is published by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this supplement may be reproduced without prior permission of the<br />

publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 03


We do<br />

Corrado Tevere<br />

different<br />

Meet the Anti-salons – the ones that are breaking the<br />

mould and offering ultra-modern hair services and<br />

experiences to excite today’s style-savvy client<br />

Radio Hair Salon & Gallery,<br />

King’s Cross<br />

@radiohairsalon<br />

Visitors to King’s Cross might<br />

get something of a shock. <strong>The</strong><br />

area’s total transformation has<br />

seen it become one of London’s hippest<br />

hangouts, home to Central Saint Martins,<br />

HQs for Google, Universal Records and<br />

design icon Tom Dixon. <strong>The</strong> first hair<br />

salon to establish itself there would need<br />

to fit into this new vibe perfectly – step in<br />

Radio London.<br />

<strong>The</strong> concept was to create a multifunctional<br />

individual space, a little like<br />

a New York warehouse, for clients to<br />

experience AND get inspired. Radio<br />

incorporated all of its creative activities<br />

into it – education, a gallery, and a studio<br />

“Redken has really<br />

understood our vision<br />

and helps to fulfil<br />

it without trying to<br />

change it”<br />

Corrado Tevere<br />

for photographic work and events. “We<br />

thought it was important to create a space<br />

that would be able to deliver a different<br />

experience from a regular salon,” explains<br />

co-founder Corrado Tevere.<br />

Having a photographic studio was<br />

vital, as the salon’s editorial work is key to<br />

its ethos. “Redken understands our vision<br />

and helps to fulfil it without trying to<br />

change it,” says Corrado.<br />

For clients, the aim is to give them<br />

a tailor-made experience unlike any<br />

other. <strong>The</strong> surroundings at Radio King’s<br />

Cross regularly change as the artwork<br />

is updated. “<strong>The</strong> gallery is a real talking<br />

point for our clients and constantly<br />

brings new energy into the salon,” admits<br />

Corrado. <strong>The</strong> experience has been<br />

thoroughly thought out, with Haeckels<br />

on offer for beauty treatments and a<br />

dedicated barista area serving Allpress<br />

Coffee. You’ll also enjoy a rather cinematic<br />

experience in the private shampoo area,<br />

where silent movies help clients relax.<br />

04 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


ANTI-SALONS<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 05


06 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


ANTI-SALONS<br />

Mitchell Wilson<br />

Laundry,<br />

Sheffield<br />

@wearelaundry<br />

need to be a place<br />

where people want to<br />

“You<br />

be.” Mitchell Wilson,<br />

founder of Sheffield’s Laundry, excels at<br />

Yorkshire straight-talking. He makes it out<br />

to be simple, but look at Laundry and you<br />

know careful thought about what clients<br />

want has been applied. And it’s bringing<br />

them in… “We’ve established both a<br />

name and an ethos,” he says. “If you have<br />

great staff then great clients are easy, so<br />

it’s vital to develop that certain something<br />

special that makes people want to be part<br />

of your journey.”<br />

It’s why Laundry recently aligned<br />

itself with a new partner. “Redken seems<br />

to look at the interesting edges of our<br />

industry. I’m not interested in the middle<br />

ground, so it’s a good fit,” says Mitchell.<br />

“But the bit that floats my boat is that<br />

Redken believes in Laundry’s vision.”<br />

Mitchell’s attitude to his brand’s<br />

photoshoots are perhaps the epitome of<br />

Laundry’s disruptor status.<br />

“I’m trying to bring a sense of realism.<br />

I’ve nothing against skinny and pretty.<br />

But I do have something against altering<br />

the image in post-production beyond<br />

recognition, in a bizarre celebration of the<br />

photographer’s skill,” he explains. “I’m far<br />

more interested in character and trying to<br />

do things differently.<br />

“It will set Laundry apart and achieve<br />

a level of recognition that yet another set<br />

of generic photos just won’t.”<br />

“<strong>The</strong> bit that floats<br />

my boat is that<br />

Redken believes in<br />

Laundry’s vision”<br />

Mitchell Wilson<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 07


Josh Wood<br />

Josh Wood Colour,<br />

Holland Park<br />

@joshwoodcolour<br />

Inspired by the concept of the atelier<br />

– a bespoke approach to clothing –<br />

Josh Wood knew precisely how his<br />

own salon would operate. <strong>The</strong> globe’s<br />

most famous colourist explains: “We<br />

really felt that a closed-door policy was<br />

needed to give our clients privacy and a<br />

totally different feeling. I like the idea of<br />

curating a space, making it feel different<br />

when clients come in.”<br />

That’s why he works with artists<br />

to create a variety of installations to<br />

continually refresh each room with<br />

different, sometimes surprising results.<br />

When it opened seven years ago,<br />

Josh admits the Atelier was very much<br />

a disruptor. But to keep that edge,<br />

“I like the idea of<br />

curating a space,<br />

making it feel different<br />

when clients come in”<br />

Josh Wood<br />

it takes a team of people that art direct<br />

the space and keep it feeling different.<br />

“We need to keep evolving and changing<br />

the environment. We need to keep<br />

pulling in creatives to keep it current,” he<br />

explains. “I like to speak to our clients’<br />

interests beyond them getting amazing<br />

hair. I want them to feel like the Atelier is<br />

an evolving space.”<br />

With such a premium offering<br />

and A-list clients in his chairs, the right<br />

product partner was a priority. “I love the<br />

creativity of Redken, the way it listens and<br />

partners with hairstylists,” Josh admits.<br />

“Innovative products are at its core!”<br />

Josh advises anyone keen to take<br />

an individual approach to stop thinking<br />

about these spaces as salons.<br />

“If there is another service that you<br />

can offer, it keeps clients feeling they are<br />

in a different space.” Indeed, his team has<br />

curated a shop that sells not only hair<br />

products but also beauty in general. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

are regular pop-ups for brands to launch<br />

and showcase new products and a library<br />

and in-house chef keep clients’ minds and<br />

bodies well-nourished. “I also love to do<br />

mini-shoots in our studio generally, just<br />

for content for our website or Instagram,”<br />

he adds. “Making the Atelier feel like a<br />

creative hub is crucial.”<br />

08 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


ANTI-SALONS<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 09


Amanda and Toby Dicker<br />

<strong>The</strong> Chapel,<br />

Royal Tunbridge Wells<br />

@thechapelplace<br />

A<br />

school house, an old public<br />

house, a church building. Even<br />

before you set foot in one of<br />

<strong>The</strong> Chapel’s five sites in the South East,<br />

you’re aware its salons are unlike others.<br />

And that was the goal from the beginning,<br />

back in 2001. “We deliberately set out to<br />

be different,” explains co-founder Toby<br />

Dicker. “We identified the three key brand<br />

values for us – Relaxation, Education and<br />

Service. One of our business colleagues<br />

at the time said: ‘If you put a T on the end<br />

you have REST.’ <strong>The</strong>n the T became the<br />

Tailored part of the experience.”<br />

It was actually Amanda Dicker, cofounder<br />

of <strong>The</strong> Chapel and Toby’s wife,<br />

who came up with a new approach, thanks<br />

to a glass of wine. Having been travelling<br />

and then working in a wine bar, she would<br />

sit and talk with women about their hair<br />

over a chilled glass. It was sobering stuff.<br />

“<strong>The</strong>y were not really talking about hair,<br />

they were talking about their experiences<br />

in the salon. <strong>The</strong> bits they hated, the bits<br />

that made them nervous, the bits that<br />

prevented them from moving on with<br />

colour or cuts,” she recalls. “I realised<br />

I could open a salon that tackled these<br />

problems and do something different.”<br />

And so <strong>The</strong> Chapel today consistently<br />

answers the prayers of its clients, and<br />

its staff. With clients, it’s about having a<br />

conversation rather than a consultation.<br />

<strong>The</strong> products that creative team<br />

work with needed to match that vibe,<br />

that approach of doing things differently,<br />

which is why the group selected Redken.<br />

“I was looking for a product with<br />

personality,” says Amanda. “Redken colour<br />

is so clever – it allows natural tones to<br />

come through with each individual hair.”<br />

“We deliberately set<br />

out to be different”<br />

Toby Dicker<br />

10 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


ANTI-SALONS<br />

Cult & Bloom,<br />

Shoreditch<br />

@cultandbloomsalon<br />

Max Dolat<br />

your unique hair<br />

story” is the invitation<br />

“Create<br />

visitors receive at Cult<br />

& Bloom. Positioned on Shoreditch’s<br />

bustling Commercial Street, the salon<br />

offers a much-needed botanical oasis of<br />

calm. <strong>The</strong> team is laser-focused on giving<br />

clients a unique experience in a homely,<br />

relaxed atmosphere. Colour changes,<br />

balayage, highlights and bleaching… yup,<br />

customers get the lot, but hair health is a<br />

top priority, too.<br />

Having worked in the area before,<br />

Max Dolat thought Shoreditch offered<br />

the perfect mix of clientele, and he was<br />

determined to follow a green mission.<br />

<strong>The</strong> salon is also hardwired to deliver<br />

a premium experience for those looking<br />

to escape, if only for a short while. For<br />

example, each room has its own fragrance<br />

to stimulate the senses. This sense of<br />

escape is also aimed at the staff, a key<br />

factor in Max’s vision. It’s something<br />

unusual, as salon managers are often<br />

obsessed with filling columns.<br />

“London can be very stressful, and<br />

I’ve worked in salons that are challenging<br />

environments. I believe that’s why<br />

hairdressers can lose their passion – long<br />

hours, few days off,” he explains. “I wanted<br />

to create an environment that was more<br />

chilled for them – we’re all really happy!<br />

Max values the importance of ‘team’,<br />

and it’s one of the fundamental attractions<br />

of Redken, the line Cult & Bloom stocks.<br />

“I love the family vibe and team spirit of<br />

Redken, the energy everyone has,” he says.<br />

“And the clients love it – the No Blow Dry<br />

cream is one of our bestsellers… even for<br />

blow-drys! Anything that is different, like<br />

the Heat Cure treatments or the new<br />

All Soft Mega Hair Sheet Mask, it gets<br />

their attention, it starts the conversation.”<br />

“I love the family vibe<br />

and team spirit of<br />

Redken, the energy<br />

everyone has”<br />

Max Dolat<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 11


Perfect<br />

partners<br />

Redken Shades EQ is the It-list colour you need to create the<br />

latest A-list techniques your clients are asking for<br />

Consumer awareness of professional<br />

techniques is bigger than ever in 2018.<br />

Techniques that can only be done in the hands<br />

of It-list colourists are the game-changer for<br />

our industry. Combine with Redken Shades EQ –<br />

a formula that can never be bought in a box –<br />

and you have the recipe for truly A-list colour<br />

results. Join the revolution as Redken gets<br />

ready to Shade the Nation!<br />

THE SHADES TO RAVE ABOUT<br />

Expect more from your colour and elevate your colour<br />

technique with Shades EQ. It’s a favourite among top<br />

colourists for its even results without compromise and<br />

colour flexibility, enabling colourists to personalise<br />

colour to each client. Hair is left with an incredible<br />

glossy shine that’s unlike anything in the market.<br />

Redken brings the gleam with the hottest techniques<br />

trending right now…<br />

BALAYAGE BLENDS<br />

Enhance, enrich, change, match, tone down or<br />

intensify pre-lightened hair with this technique.<br />

You can also restore colour to highlights, and<br />

correct uneven, brassy or overly vibrant tones.<br />

GET GLOSSED<br />

Give clients an unbeatable glossy shine to their dull or<br />

damaged hair. Enhance any colour, even virgin hair…<br />

or offer any client a quick colour refresh!<br />

Be different. Be Redken.<br />

Want to be part of a new generation colour house? Join the revolution – email Redken<br />

at info.redken@loreal.com for a bespoke colour demonstration<br />

REDKEN.CO.UK @REDKEN REDKENUK REDKENUKI<br />

12 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


ADVERTORIAL<br />

Peach Bellini<br />

featuring @ninaagdal<br />

Cotton<br />

Candy<br />

Glacier Filter<br />

Using Shades EQ Aqua Blue<br />

By @bonneyclaire<br />

Radio London<br />

Pastel placement Using Shades<br />

EQ Pastel Pink + Pastel Peach<br />

THE TECHNIQUES<br />

Smoked Pearl<br />

Autumn Flame<br />

By Claire Flack<br />

@wigsandwarpaint<br />

Using new Shades EQ<br />

Natural Ashes<br />

08NA + 06NA + Gel to Cream<br />

Solution for root smudge. 09P<br />

+ 09V + Crystal Clear + Gel<br />

to Cream Solution for Zones<br />

2 and 3<br />

By @giellygreen<br />

Using new Shades EQ Reds<br />

Formula 1: 08C + Gloss to<br />

Cream solution. Formula 2:<br />

07RR + 08C + Gloss to Cream.<br />

Formula 3: 06RR + Processing<br />

Solution. Varying placement of<br />

the different formulas<br />

Frost Gloss<br />

Using Shades EQ 07T + 08T<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 13


Brush<br />

strokes<br />

of genius<br />

Hair colour has never been this big – thank you Instagram!<br />

We quiz the leading colourists – and a few up-and-comers –<br />

about why colour rocks their world<br />

Tracey Cunningham, Mèche Salon<br />

and Redken creative consultant for colour<br />

@traceycunningham1<br />

All images courtesy of colourists’ Instagram<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are celebrity colourists and then<br />

there’s Tracey Cunningham. Adored by<br />

the Hollywood elite, including Jennifer<br />

Lopez, Drew Barrymore, Charlize<br />

<strong>The</strong>ron and Jessica Biel, the US<br />

colourist has become synonymous with<br />

creating beautiful, natural colour for<br />

stars on the red carpet and in editorials<br />

– a far cry from when she started out<br />

as Bette Midler’s nanny! After two<br />

decades, Tracey remains at the top of<br />

her game. Her work has graced the<br />

covers of magazines such as W, Allure<br />

and Marie Claire, and she opened her<br />

own salon, Mèche, with co-owner<br />

Neil Weisberg, in 2012. Regularly jetsetting<br />

between Dubai, Europe and the<br />

Kardashian compounds in California,<br />

Tracey is the undisputed leading lady<br />

in the colourist world…<br />

I love Redken Shades EQ<br />

because… I’ve been a fan and a faithful<br />

follower of all things Shades EQ for years.<br />

It’s one of the top three things I can’t<br />

live without – that’s in a group with my<br />

son and Americano coffee! <strong>The</strong> formula,<br />

range of tones, and shades are just so easy<br />

to use – any other colour brand pales in<br />

comparison and I’ve tried the lot.<br />

What does a modern client want<br />

from a professional colour? Thanks<br />

to social media, every girl knows exactly<br />

what they want when it comes to beauty<br />

nowadays, and that’s especially true<br />

of hair colour. This makes my life that<br />

much easier. When a client comes into<br />

my salon, they immediately get out their<br />

iPhone and show me images of celebrities<br />

or tastemakers with the hair colour they<br />

are going for. Most are my clients already<br />

in those inspiration pictures, so I know<br />

exactly how to apply their colour and<br />

the results with Shades EQ is always the<br />

desired outcome.<br />

How would you describe yourself<br />

as a colourist? I know what my<br />

strengths are and I understand the limits<br />

and I stick to it. I’m not into fads or trends<br />

– I just want my clients’ hair to be healthy,<br />

manageable, and gorgeous.<br />

What has been the highlight of<br />

your career so far? I’ve had so many!<br />

I love my Redken family and I enjoy<br />

travelling the globe to educate other hair<br />

colourists. <strong>The</strong> audience and I have a great<br />

time and I get to meet all these people<br />

who are so supportive of my career. I get<br />

to actually meet people I converse with on<br />

social media and that means a lot to me.<br />

I just love people and I love this industry.<br />

14 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


COLOURISTS<br />

Craig Purves,<br />

Eleven Hair<br />

@craigsworldofhair<br />

I love Shades EQ because… as a<br />

colourist I look for three things in a colour<br />

range: creativity, results and hair health<br />

– I’ve been using Shades EQ now for 15<br />

years as it hits every one of those points.<br />

Dependable results and incredible shine,<br />

with infinite formulation possibilities.<br />

My advice for a young colourist<br />

is… Being a successful colourist and<br />

getting the most from your career isn’t<br />

about being ruthless or waiting for<br />

things to just happen. It’s about<br />

continually learning and putting yourself<br />

out there when you can. When you do<br />

well, people notice.<br />

Megan Niccolls,<br />

Voodou<br />

@meganniccollshair<br />

I love Shades EQ because… a few<br />

of the reasons it appeals to me is that it<br />

doesn’t lift the natural hair colour. This<br />

along with the consistency of shades that<br />

makes it perfect for colour melting, as well<br />

as it adding unbelievable shine.<br />

What does a modern client want<br />

from a professional colour?<br />

I think the modern client wants seamless,<br />

shiny hair, whether that be a natural<br />

balayage to a fashion colour, I always use<br />

Redken pH-Bonder, which protects and<br />

adds shine – healthy hair is beautiful hair!<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 15


Michelle Marshall,<br />

Michelle Marshall<br />

@michelle _marshall<br />

I love Shades EQ because… it’s so<br />

easy to use, it’s very versatile. It moves<br />

through the hair easily.<br />

What has been the highlight of<br />

your career so far?<br />

<strong>The</strong>re’s been so many highlights, but<br />

I guess it would have to be landing a<br />

contract to travel to New York four times<br />

this year to work at the Redken Exchange<br />

on 5th Avenue. I get to work with two<br />

really talented colourists there – Lori<br />

Zabel and Veronica Ridge.<br />

My advice for a young<br />

colourist is…<br />

Say yes to every opportunity. Expect to<br />

do a lot of work for free if you want to<br />

get into the artistic side of things. Never<br />

give up on your dreams, never cut corners<br />

with colour, take pride in your work<br />

and maintain your integrity.<br />

Harriet Muldoon<br />

and Amy Fish,<br />

Larry King Salon<br />

@amyfishcolour<br />

@harrietmuldoon<br />

I love Shades EQ because…<br />

AF: I love the variety of soft shades and<br />

the incredible shine and condition.<br />

HM: of the gloss! And with Redken it’s all<br />

about bringing back the pH. And there’s a<br />

shade for every client.<br />

What does a modern client want<br />

from a professional colour?<br />

AF: An effortless colour look that feels<br />

fresh and exciting.<br />

HM: It’s not about covering greys –<br />

thanks to social media and hashtags,<br />

people are getting bolder and braver.<br />

I have to deliver Instagrammable colour.<br />

What’s been the highlight of your<br />

career so far?<br />

AF: Winning <strong>The</strong> It List It Girl award in<br />

2016; going to Paris to colour models’ hair<br />

for a Saint Laurent show and building a<br />

new colour department at Larry King!<br />

My advice for a young<br />

colourist is…<br />

AF: Don’t be afraid to try something new<br />

and working hard does really pay off.<br />

HM: Be open and keep working on<br />

trends and techniques.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Artistic Team,<br />

Live True<br />

@livetruelondon<br />

We love Shades EQ because… it<br />

completely changed our world in terms<br />

of colour. <strong>The</strong> intensity of the hue and<br />

the multitude of possibilities to create the<br />

perfect tailor-made colour is our absolute<br />

favourite part. We can obtain tones that<br />

are incredibly shiny and keep the integrity<br />

of the hair at the highest level of strength<br />

and quality at the same time. Lately, silver<br />

tones are on-trend more than ever and<br />

Shade EQ offers a fantastic range of icy<br />

toners that are perfect for our clientele.<br />

What is your dream when it<br />

comes to your colour career?<br />

<strong>The</strong> dream is to be able to express<br />

to the world how fantastic we are.<br />

When we think about it, colour is more<br />

than a passion, it’s a way of being, living<br />

and breathing!<br />

16 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


COLOURISTS<br />

Paul Bingham,<br />

Lockonego<br />

@Pbingham75<br />

Claire Bonney,<br />

Radio Hair Salon<br />

@bonneyclaire<br />

Samantha Cusick,<br />

Samantha Cusick London<br />

@samanthacusicklondon<br />

I love Shades EQ because… of its<br />

incredible shine! It’s a great product that’s<br />

got many tones that can be personalised,<br />

depending on a client’s need.<br />

Describe yourself as a colourist…<br />

Enthusiastic and approachable. I like to<br />

make sure my clients have the best colour<br />

experience and service. I do take my job<br />

very seriously; I have a lot responsibility as<br />

I’m in control of someone’s appearance!<br />

What’s been the highlight of<br />

your career so far? Becoming an<br />

art director for Toni&Guy was big as it<br />

allowed me to teach colour in an academy<br />

and to work on hair shows and share my<br />

colour work with big audiences. I’d love<br />

to become a Redken Artist now – I’m<br />

working on it!<br />

I love Shades EQ because… it’s a<br />

wonder product, its versatility is its most<br />

appealing quality.<br />

What does a modern client want<br />

from a professional colour?<br />

A ‘look’ unique to them. We use<br />

a carefully designed menu based on our<br />

continual search for the current and<br />

modern, paired with the Radio aesthetic.<br />

We aim to deliver a bespoke experience.<br />

What’s your dream when it<br />

comes to your colour career? To<br />

work on campaigns and diverse creative<br />

projects, hopefully increasing my travel,<br />

too… and years from now maybe work on<br />

producing a colour product range!<br />

I love Shades EQ because… it<br />

is the colour that everyone is using on<br />

Instagram. <strong>The</strong>y were creating these<br />

blondes and I wanted to do that, too!<br />

Those biscuit blondes that are bright but<br />

they’re ash? <strong>The</strong>y’re everything! I found<br />

the techniques and then it was about<br />

getting the right toner. One of the biggest<br />

trends is no warmth.<br />

What does a modern client want<br />

from a professional colour… and<br />

how are you delivering? Everybody<br />

wants that bespoke, tailored approach.<br />

Clients are really good at knowing what<br />

they want now.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 17


Rogue Blonde<br />

South Kensington’s Larry King Salon gets fierce with its blondes<br />

with a colour menu that’s up front and a little bit punk<br />

BRIGHT IDEA<br />

Clarisse<br />

Misty<br />

SAY HELLO TO THE Class of<br />

2018, graduating from the fingeron-the-pulse<br />

Larry King Salon.<br />

<strong>The</strong> question is, how rogue will<br />

you go? That’s Rogue Blonde,<br />

the unifying theme from Larry<br />

and his queens of colour, Harriet<br />

Muldoon and Amy Fish. This<br />

colour-rich collection is all about<br />

taking a little bit of an anarchic<br />

approach to blonde this season,<br />

it’s the art class muse, playing<br />

with pastel shades and more<br />

vibrant streaks and finished with<br />

a laissez-faire attitude that’s a little<br />

bit raw, very real and relatable,<br />

and naturally covetable. “Women<br />

want to feel like they’re being<br />

taken seriously,” explain Amy and<br />

Harriet. “<strong>The</strong> long, loose waves<br />

we’ve seen in the past few years<br />

can cover so much of the face and<br />

feel a bit staged in the world of<br />

New Feminism. It’s about being<br />

individual and bold – it’s like<br />

power dressing for hair.”<br />

This first collection from Larry King<br />

Salon, with all looks using Redken<br />

colour and styling products, is<br />

steeped in late ’80s rock and early<br />

‘90s grunge references, with a<br />

smattering of Supers and a smidge<br />

of punk, too. Think Courtney<br />

Love, Drew Barrymore, Winona<br />

Ryder. And for the boys, Larry’s<br />

team is crushing hard on Leonardo<br />

Di Caprio circa Romeo+Juliet.<br />

You had us at Winona – we’re<br />

ready to go full rogue...<br />

18 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


BRIGHT IDEA<br />

Nancy<br />

Courtney<br />

“Women want to feel like they’re being taken<br />

seriously… it’s about being individual and bold<br />

– it’s like power dressing for hair”<br />

AMY FISH AND HARRIET MULDOON<br />

Styling by <strong>The</strong> Styling Team at Larry King using Redken. Colour by Queens of Colour at Larry King using Redken. Make-up by Jade Farmiloe. Photography by Phoebe Fox.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 19


<strong>The</strong> crown jewels<br />

From fuchsia to chartreuse,<br />

wedge cuts to side points, the<br />

Marc Jacobs A/W18 show was<br />

a masterclass in statement<br />

hair. Josh Wood and Guido, the<br />

backstage leads creating the<br />

hair looks with Redken, lift the lid<br />

on how the story came together<br />

This page: photography by James Cochrane<br />

20 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


MARC JACOBS A/W18<br />

Josh Wood (left) and Guido backstage at Marc Jacobs<br />

In a show that saw 80 per cent<br />

of the models donning hats,<br />

you know it must have been<br />

pretty spectacular hair on the<br />

remainder to have ended up on the<br />

cover of <strong>The</strong> New York Times. That<br />

was down to the talent of session<br />

stars Josh Wood and Guido.<br />

An illustration of the power<br />

of collaboration, the duo worked<br />

with the designer to deliver a<br />

darker take on ’80s nostalgia,<br />

referencing classic Sassoon<br />

techniques with the cuts, and neon<br />

from an ’80s nightclub for the<br />

colour. It was a fusion that excited<br />

the world of fashion, something<br />

that isn’t so easy to do in 2018.<br />

Marc had a clear view about<br />

what he wanted to create, looking<br />

at a very specific time in the ’80s<br />

using extreme silhouettes. “It<br />

felt night time, colourful but in<br />

a dark way,” says Guido, global<br />

creative director for Redken. “I<br />

went back to what had an impact<br />

on me at the beginning of my<br />

career. I started at Sassoon, those<br />

haircuts were my blueprint for<br />

hairdressing.” After each model<br />

was cut, colour took over.<br />

<strong>The</strong> designer set Josh the task<br />

of colour-matching every single<br />

piece of fabric the models would<br />

be wearing. <strong>The</strong> Redken global<br />

color creative director found it<br />

all reassuring. “With designers,<br />

colour is so subjective. We had<br />

20 samples of fabric that we were<br />

trying to match to the hair. It’s<br />

much easier than Marc saying ‘I<br />

want a fuschia pink’, because his<br />

fuschia is very different to Guido’s<br />

fuschia… there were goals we were<br />

trying to achieve,” he explains.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> more clear the brief, the<br />

easier it is to deliver.”<br />

It was an intensive project.<br />

Three days of conversations<br />

before anyone arrived at the test,<br />

and then three 20-hour days with<br />

Josh’s team working in shifts.<br />

And some shades were more<br />

of a challenge, namely chartreuse.<br />

“We had to bleach the hair to a<br />

very specific shade of mustard<br />

to avoid a banana yellow. It still<br />

needed a lot of underlying pigment<br />

to get that green-gold. That was<br />

done five times,” Josh admits.<br />

In fact, three formulas were<br />

fused together. Formula one<br />

(Redken City Beats in High Line<br />

Green) was blurred into formula<br />

two (Redken City Beats in Yellow<br />

Cab plus a drop of Redken City<br />

Beats in Times Square Teal) and<br />

blurred into formula three (Redken<br />

City Beats in High Line Green +<br />

Redken City Beats in Yellow Cab<br />

plus a drop of Redken City Beats in<br />

Brooklyn Blue).<br />

“We were up and down those<br />

stairs in the Marc Jacobs studio.<br />

Precision colour, where placement<br />

is everything, is not easy to do over<br />

a kitchen sink.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> end result was one that<br />

thrilled both designer and the<br />

wider fashion world alike. <strong>The</strong><br />

models in question have since<br />

been used in the Marc Jacobs<br />

seasonal campaign and used<br />

by Guido in a magazine shoot.<br />

And it was a first for Josh Wood,<br />

seeing himself name-checked in<br />

the show notes. “It was a career<br />

highlight for me,” says Josh. “Marc<br />

said that what I’d done exceeded<br />

expectations, he’d never seen<br />

colour like that. It’s a pretty proud<br />

moment when you’re allowed<br />

to do something for a genius<br />

and you’re introducing them<br />

to something rather than just<br />

meeting their expectations.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 21


Teddy Quinlivan (right),<br />

Leomie Anderson Teddy Quinlivan and Leigh (right), Lezark<br />

Leomie Anderson (left) and for Leigh Redken Lezark 5th Avenue (left)<br />

for Redken 5th Avenue<br />

All rights reserved. 2018<br />

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and an easy refresh on Zones 2-3. #ColorGelsLacquers


Bronde, Blonde and Beyond<br />

Let’s get creative and colourful with this savvy service menu from Radio Hair Salon<br />

& Gallery in London’s King’s Cross, all created in collaboration with Redken for a<br />

plethora of pastel possibilities… and beyond!<br />

BRIGHT IDEA<br />

Beyond Pink<br />

Beyond Silver<br />

Beyond Silver<br />

Bronde<br />

24 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


BRIGHT IDEA<br />

Beyond Pink<br />

Blonde<br />

“She shows confidence and control,<br />

all while looking relaxed and cool”<br />

CORRADO TEVERE<br />

Hair and concept by Radio Artistic Team. Make-up by Liz Marsden. Photography by JC Verona.<br />

IN RADIO HAIR Salon &<br />

Gallery’s new Kings Cross<br />

location, there’s a space that’s<br />

primed for the team to shoot<br />

their work on a regular basis.<br />

And the windows in the newlygenerated<br />

and achingly-cool Kings<br />

Cross neighbourhood showcase<br />

just what this rather brilliantly<br />

talented team can do. Currently<br />

being showcased is its Bronde,<br />

Blonde and Beyond service<br />

menu, created in collaboration<br />

with Redken and cleverly tapping<br />

into consumer lust for Instagramworthy<br />

colour. It’s a simple yet<br />

impactful collection of images for<br />

clients to engage with. “Emulating<br />

a ‘Parisian chic’, the Bronde is<br />

elegant yet cool,” explains Radio’s<br />

founder Corrado Tevere. Here,<br />

the team showcase looks for<br />

clients wanting low-commitment<br />

colour, and a more natural and<br />

blended finish. Blondes? Well,<br />

they’ll always be a big colour<br />

business driver, and the line-up<br />

here includes high impact tones.<br />

“She shows confidence and<br />

control, all while looking relaxed<br />

and cool,” explains Corrado, while<br />

another look that’s a brighter,<br />

vivid finish makes regrowth a<br />

feature, gives this baby blonde an<br />

edge, and makes visits to the salon<br />

less frequent. Beyond Pink offers<br />

the most playful look, alongside<br />

Beyond Silver, which has a fierce<br />

personality. “<strong>The</strong> colour hue is<br />

soft yet very bold,” he smiles,<br />

“it’s sophisticated with lots of<br />

edge.” We think Radio’s clients<br />

will be spoiled for choice. What to<br />

go for first?<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 25


26 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


LIKES<br />

Social life<br />

It’s not just about the hair at these salons, it’s also about ‘the hang’.<br />

See how Larry King and Samantha Cusick have crafted their<br />

salons and their swagger, to ensure clients are sharing to the max<br />

Larry King,<br />

Larry King, South Kensington<br />

@LarryKingHair<br />

Larry King at Larry King Salon<br />

Search #LarrysWorld on<br />

Instagram and you’ll soon<br />

see why Larry King has<br />

all the beauty press a-flutter and<br />

a long list of celebrity clients and<br />

editorial credits. This canny use<br />

of social media has really helped<br />

drive the success of the Larry<br />

King salon in South Kensington<br />

beyond that of just another cool<br />

London hairdressers. “It’s not just<br />

about getting your hair done,” he<br />

explains, “it’s about hanging out,<br />

having a coffee outside, meeting<br />

your mates while they’re getting<br />

a blow-dry. I want this to be a<br />

community…” No wonder the<br />

#sociallifeforyourhair hashtag he’s<br />

created is gaining such traction.<br />

Alongside his wife and<br />

business partner, Laura, Larry<br />

has crafted a salon that is the<br />

epitome of social FOR social<br />

(media, that is). It’s a mix of<br />

stunning decor that makes<br />

various angles and scenes utterly<br />

Instagrammable. A fusion of East<br />

End cool with West End luxury,<br />

Larry describes the design as<br />

“industrial elegance”, all grey<br />

shades, high gloss tiles, wooden<br />

floors and bespoke granite work<br />

stations. And it’s a continual<br />

evolution: as he and Laura find<br />

more interesting pieces to pepper<br />

the place, the salon’s look will<br />

evolve further.<br />

A key element is Larry’s<br />

partnership with Redken.<br />

“It’s such an influential brand,<br />

especially in the US. Here, it’s<br />

been more of a sleeping giant. You<br />

know it has Guido, but it’s making<br />

great strides and Josh Wood has<br />

come on board, too. <strong>The</strong> products<br />

tick every box – it’s an abundance<br />

of innovation.”<br />

From the pavement seating<br />

outside to the library of fashion<br />

books and the Copper Dog-stocked<br />

drinks trolley in reception, the hang<br />

element of the salon is clear. It’s not<br />

stuffy; it’s fun, friendly and you’ll<br />

want to stay a while.<br />

“This is also a place where you<br />

want to take pictures, which is all<br />

for social media but it also feels<br />

like home,” Larry adds. “<strong>The</strong>re are<br />

different areas of the salon where<br />

you can capture those moments.”<br />

Examples include the ‘Loo with a<br />

View’ and the all-pink bathroom<br />

in the basement. <strong>The</strong>re’s even a<br />

selfie seat, and it leads to organic<br />

advertising for his salon and<br />

team, while creating “Instagram<br />

envy” for his potential clients.<br />

No wonder Pixie Lott and David<br />

Gandy include their snip visits on<br />

their own Instagram pages…<br />

“This is also a<br />

place where you<br />

want to take<br />

pictures, which<br />

is all for social<br />

media but it also<br />

feels like home”<br />

Larry King<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 27


Samantha Cusick<br />

Samantha Cusick London, Notting Hill<br />

@SamanthaCusickLondon<br />

From the palm fronds to<br />

the millennial pink and<br />

the flamingo icons, the<br />

Samantha Cusick London salon<br />

is an Instagrammer’s dream.<br />

Samantha herself has curated<br />

the concept with care and detail<br />

to make sure that the client<br />

experience appeals to… well, her!<br />

“I’m the target market,” she<br />

says. “I’m 30; our aim is 25 to late<br />

30s and I was thinking: ‘<strong>The</strong>re’s<br />

nowhere I would want to go and<br />

get my hair done. What would I<br />

want?’ Good music, a nice place to<br />

sit, stuff to do like paint your nails,<br />

nice drinks. It’s somewhere to<br />

hang out and have fun… and you’re<br />

going to leave with good hair!”<br />

This Nottingham-born stylist<br />

knows the start of the client’s<br />

journey begins when they find<br />

your salon online. So visit the<br />

salon’s site or Instagram and<br />

you’ll know precisely what this<br />

brand is about. “When they walk<br />

through the door it’s consistent<br />

with that,” she agrees. “Everything<br />

is pretty and organised, the staff<br />

are friendly and engaging, and you<br />

get to know them on social media,<br />

which is important. It takes away<br />

that ‘front’; that old experience<br />

of walking into a hairdressers<br />

and everyone looking you up and<br />

down. As soon as someone comes<br />

in they feel like they know us<br />

already, it puts them at ease and<br />

they have a better experience.”<br />

When you have bloggers with<br />

huge followings sat in your chair -<br />

think Zoella and Tanya Burr – it’s<br />

understandable that you’re going<br />

to think about your business<br />

through that filter, and Samantha<br />

admits that she draws inspiration<br />

from them whenever they visit.<br />

So, what’s the secret? “It’s always<br />

about being yourself; as soon as<br />

you’re not, then what’s the point?”<br />

she questions. “Don’t do anything<br />

you don’t feel comfortable with,<br />

because then you lose credibility.”<br />

And think about your lighting,<br />

too. “My friend, the blogger Em<br />

Ford, sent me a ring light two<br />

years ago, and all the package said<br />

was ‘#instagramupgrade!’” she<br />

laughs. “It gave our shots a whole<br />

new life. It makes a big difference.<br />

You can’t rely on natural light.”<br />

Again, it’s about that client<br />

experience – everyone feels more<br />

comfortable with the light because<br />

“you look more glowy,” she smiles.<br />

“It’s somewhere to<br />

hang out and have fun…<br />

and you’re going to<br />

leave with good hair!”<br />

Samantha Cusick<br />

Samantha Cusick at Samantha Cusick London<br />

28 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


LIKES<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 29


<strong>The</strong> cult of<br />

personality<br />

You might think big, but do you act big? We ask Lee Stafford and<br />

Craig Chapman how their personas have impacted their careers<br />

30 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


CULT OF PERSONALITY<br />

Craig Chapman Hair Design<br />

Lee Stafford<br />

@leestaffordhair<br />

Perhaps the very definition<br />

of ‘personality’, the<br />

charming, funny and<br />

straight-talking Lee Stafford was<br />

a breath of fresh air when he hit<br />

big in the ’90s. He was real, and<br />

his neon pink and Staffie dog<br />

branding was unlike anything seen<br />

elsewhere in hair. And what still<br />

comes across, is his warmth and<br />

his passion for the industry.<br />

Having spent the first six years<br />

of his career in his mum’s living<br />

room in Essex, he admits “I didn’t<br />

learn in the conventional sense,<br />

so I had to go on lots of training<br />

courses”. This gave him a unique<br />

perspective on the variety of hair<br />

education out there.<br />

He points to one example:<br />

“when I used to sit in that training<br />

room, you could hear a pin drop.<br />

Everyone was scared to ask a<br />

question – well I wasn’t! – and the<br />

people up there would talk, talk,<br />

talk. That’s not very empowering<br />

for anybody,” he bristles.<br />

It’s one of the reasons why<br />

today he is laser-focused on Lee<br />

Stafford Education, currently<br />

running in 13 UK colleges. He’s<br />

determined to raise the standard<br />

of young stylists leaving college<br />

and ensure they’re work-ready.<br />

“Redken<br />

empowers<br />

people through<br />

the way it<br />

coaches”<br />

Lee Stafford<br />

This passion for education<br />

is also why his love affair with<br />

Redken still burns bright – he<br />

admits that even after 30 years<br />

he’s never used any other industry<br />

brand. “Lots of product houses<br />

do great products, but for me it’s<br />

always about the way Redken<br />

empowers people through the<br />

way it coaches. It will encourage<br />

you to ask a question early on and<br />

they will make you feel special,” he<br />

explains. “It knocked me sideways<br />

back then, and it still knocks me<br />

sideways today.”<br />

Lee is a prime example of<br />

success coming from a drive<br />

within – he has powered his own<br />

success. “One of Redken’s mantras<br />

is to encourage individuality –<br />

there’s no-one like you, there’s<br />

no-one like me,” he explains.<br />

“I’ve learned that if you copy<br />

you’ll get nowhere. You have to<br />

be innovative, and the only way<br />

to be innovative as a person is to<br />

be yourself. You’ll be original, and<br />

you’ll stand out for that.”<br />

Craig Chapman<br />

@craigchapmanhair<br />

Many might think of<br />

Cornwall as a rather<br />

sleepy place; but<br />

Launceston-based Craig Chapman<br />

is anything but sleepy. <strong>The</strong> 2017<br />

Most Wanted Creative Talent<br />

winner is a fizzing ball of energy<br />

who runs a brilliantly successful<br />

salon in Cornwall and also<br />

balances that with a busy session<br />

and TV career (he’s on his third<br />

season of <strong>The</strong> Voice). Oh, and he’s<br />

launched a talent agency. “Well,<br />

if you want to make it big, there’s<br />

no time to be a shrinking violet!”<br />

he laughs.<br />

But raising a profile outside<br />

your salon area when you’re from<br />

a small Cornish town isn’t the<br />

easiest thing to achieve. And that’s<br />

where his agency HAIRDOTCOM<br />

found its roots, explains Craig.<br />

“This was designed not only to<br />

expand my career, but also to<br />

provide opportunities for stylists<br />

to work in London without having<br />

to make the move there.”<br />

On one show alone, Craig<br />

and his cohorts looked after 60<br />

people, including dancers, bands<br />

and choirs, all with the help of a kit<br />

bag stuffed with Redken products.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> very first day I started was a<br />

Redken training day!” he grins.<br />

“Its education ethos always has<br />

been so strong.”<br />

So, what’s the secret to such a<br />

successful career outside of a big<br />

city? “Being happy is so important<br />

as it makes people want to work<br />

with you,” he says. “Of course<br />

there are moments to be serious,<br />

but I try and be the best version of<br />

me at all times.”<br />

“If you want to make it<br />

big, there’s no time to<br />

be a shrinking violet!”<br />

Craig Chapman<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 31


<strong>The</strong> young<br />

and the restless<br />

Young consumers are used to doing it themselves – but<br />

these salons are winning them over and into their chairs…<br />

VOODOU,<br />

Liverpool<br />

@voodouliverpool<br />

General manager Victoria Buckley<br />

and founder Rob Webb<br />

“We’re passionate about being individual<br />

and we encourage that in our stylists”<br />

Victoria Buckley<br />

32 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


YOUNG AND RESTLESS<br />

Never stand still and constantly<br />

reinvent yourself, that’s the drive<br />

that underpins the brilliantly<br />

buzzy Voodou in Liverpool. From unicorn<br />

colours to super-long extensions, Voodou<br />

is a firm favourite among the beautyobsessed<br />

from Bootle and beyond. “We’re<br />

not afraid to experiment and one of our<br />

greatest strengths as a salon is that we<br />

have an large team with differing skills,”<br />

says general manager, Victoria Buckley.<br />

“We collaborate to make sure those<br />

skills and experiences are drawn upon to<br />

achieve the best results for each client.”<br />

For customers who want hair that<br />

inspires Instagram envy, Voodou has it<br />

covered. “Our social media and online<br />

presence has been strong for sometime,<br />

and at the heart of that is our Instagram<br />

account, which shows off the amazing<br />

talent in Voodou,” says Victoria. “It’s a<br />

massively important reference point for<br />

younger clients seeking inspiration and<br />

reassurance about a hairdressing brand.”<br />

She admits that the social side has<br />

been “a massive learning curve”. “<strong>The</strong><br />

key is to keep on top of new platforms<br />

and new techniques,” she explains.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> biggest challenge for any salon is<br />

getting the stylist to understand how<br />

important social media is to building their<br />

own columns. Generally, the 18-30 age<br />

group no longer Google for salons; they<br />

search out salons on Instagram, so you<br />

need images and videos and the stylists<br />

need to be up for providing that. We have<br />

been lucky that stylists have got on board<br />

and have amazing work to show off.”<br />

It’s that obsession with creative work<br />

and reinvention that Victoria believes<br />

puts them ahead of their rivals. “We’re<br />

passionate about being individual and<br />

we encourage that in our stylists and our<br />

clients,” she says. “Where others may<br />

see ‘challenge’ we see ‘opportunity’. We<br />

are fearless – people seek us out for that<br />

ultimate transformation because they<br />

trust us to get it right.” And that’s where<br />

Redken is the perfect partner – Victoria<br />

loves the cool New York vibe and its sense<br />

of ‘can-do’. “It’s a great brand fit for us.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 33


Adam Reed (left) and Paul Percival<br />

PERCY AND REED EAST,<br />

Spitalfields<br />

@percyandreedsalons<br />

A<br />

salon experience that seamlessly<br />

fuses some serious cut and colour<br />

know-how with a laid-back,<br />

effortlessly cool vibe befitting of an East<br />

London postcode – welcome to Percy<br />

& Reed East, the second salon in Paul<br />

Percival and Adam Reed’s hair empire.<br />

East, in the bustling Spitalfields<br />

area, followed five years after the launch<br />

of West, in Great Portland Street. “We<br />

wanted to head to East London because<br />

that’s where I did most of my original<br />

creative work – there are so many<br />

photographic studios around here,” says<br />

Adam. With bags of character, the decor is<br />

retro yet slick, with many of the trademark<br />

characteristics remaining from its time<br />

spent as a base for tomato and banana<br />

merchants (like the colour accents and the<br />

air-holes still in the walls, which used to<br />

circulate air to keep the fruit fresh).<br />

It’s eminently Instagrammable, which<br />

has no doubt won the attention of local<br />

young hipsters when making their choice<br />

of salon to visit. Yet individual touches<br />

dotted around the salon remove all traces<br />

of pretentiousness, such as the selection<br />

of Adam’s personal book collection on the<br />

“Why Redken? <strong>The</strong>y’re bloody<br />

great products, that’s why! We<br />

love the connection with Guido<br />

and how he’s genuinely involved<br />

in product development”<br />

Paul Percival and Adam Reed<br />

shelves, the entertaining graffiti quotes<br />

on various parts of the furnishings and<br />

various childhood mementos (though it’s<br />

the bathroom that steals the limelight,<br />

with its eclectic selection of framed,<br />

vintage, kooky pictures that are certainly<br />

worth a look at). And it’s deeply personal:<br />

look around and you’ll spot the wigs Percy<br />

& Reed created for the L’Oréal Colour<br />

Trophy Grand Final show, and there’s a<br />

huge chair presented as a gift from the<br />

singer Will Young.<br />

Why did Paul and Adam chose to<br />

partner with Redken at Percy & Reed<br />

East? “<strong>The</strong>y’re bloody great products,<br />

that’s why!” they chorus. “We love<br />

the connection with Guido and how<br />

he’s genuinely involved in product<br />

development,” continues Adam. “Redken<br />

is a brand that’s packed with integrity<br />

and authenticity.”<br />

“<strong>The</strong>re’s real innovation,” adds Paul.<br />

“Redken understands the consumer and<br />

intuitively knows what product they’re<br />

going to want next.”<br />

34 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


YOUNG AND RESTLESS<br />

WIGS AND WARPAINT,<br />

Sheffield<br />

@wigsandwarpaint<br />

You can tell from the decidedly<br />

retro logo of Yorkshire salon Wigs<br />

and Warpaint that this isn’t your<br />

average hairdressers. In the bustling city<br />

of Sheffield, it has firmly established itself<br />

over the past decade as a fun, creative<br />

destination for all things hair, and that’s all<br />

been designed with the client in mind. “It<br />

can be quite intimidating, coming into a<br />

big salon,” admits Claire Flack, the salon’s<br />

creative and managing director. “You<br />

know from our styling that we’re fun and<br />

vibrant – and it all works for the client.”<br />

And while that customer base covers<br />

all ages, there is a wealth of younger<br />

“You know from our<br />

styling that we’re fun,<br />

we’re vibrant – and it all<br />

works for the client”<br />

Claire Flack<br />

clients; Sheffield is a thriving student<br />

hub, home to two large universities. <strong>The</strong><br />

salon celebrated its 10th anniversary by<br />

collaborating on a fashion show with<br />

students from Sheffield Hallam – Wigs<br />

and Warpaint looked after the hair as<br />

models hit the catwalk, sporting garments<br />

from fashion students as well as a local<br />

designer. It’s this kind of activity that<br />

helps the salon stand out. “With our<br />

system we can tailor deals as we need<br />

to, such as when a stylist is quiet, we can<br />

really target them.”<br />

If those younger clients are working<br />

to a budget, there are plenty of bespoke<br />

services to suit them. “<strong>The</strong> new Flash Lift<br />

Express Blonde from Redken is a quicker<br />

highlighting service for which we can<br />

charge a little bit less,” explains Claire.<br />

“Technique and toners play their part<br />

too – all services you can’t get in a box at<br />

home. “We’re always trying to think up<br />

cute little names for the tones we use, and<br />

make that service as personal as we can<br />

for that customer,” Claire adds.<br />

And naturally, all these tones and<br />

techniques are shared on its social media.<br />

“We want people to get a feel for the<br />

salon, rather than just seeing beautiful,<br />

professional pictures. We show the salon<br />

inside, the team, what we’re all doing,<br />

real customers…” Like plenty of the local<br />

students, we like what we see.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 35


Redken Symposium<br />

Learn, earn<br />

and live better<br />

Your school days might be behind you, but to keep growing and improving, education is key.<br />

<strong>The</strong> right course or mentor can make all the difference in your career trajectory, so when you<br />

pick an education partner, make sure you pick a brand that’s as unique as you<br />

Michael Jackson once said that<br />

“the greatest education in the<br />

world is watching the masters<br />

at work” – a perfect maxim for stylists<br />

and colourists. And in the world of hair,<br />

education can mean so much more than a<br />

teacher and a classroom. It can offer you<br />

opportunities to not just broaden your<br />

mind, but potentially travel the world, too.<br />

Salon owner, Michelle Marshall found<br />

this when she attended the International<br />

Redken Artist Connection. <strong>The</strong> threeday<br />

education event brings together 800<br />

Redken artists from around the world and<br />

focuses on everything from the business<br />

of colouring to lifestyle and wellbeing.<br />

This year’s event took place in Austin,<br />

Texas and left Michelle feeling “really fired<br />

up and refreshed”. Opportunities to travel<br />

and experience new ways of learning<br />

are just a small part of what is on offer<br />

to salons. Forward-thinking brands are<br />

those on a mission to work with industry<br />

innovators and businesses that bring a<br />

fresh approach to hairdressing to then<br />

filter this down to the salons and stylists.<br />

But what makes Redken education so<br />

different? Primarily it’s principles-based.<br />

This means that its principles guide how<br />

the brand approaches training. <strong>The</strong> brand<br />

wants to help you Learn Better, Earn<br />

Better and Live Better, and its range of<br />

courses reflects this.<br />

“I’ve been supported<br />

every step of the way…<br />

It’s thanks to Redken’s<br />

commitment that<br />

I’m the hairdresser<br />

I am today”<br />

Kelly Scott<br />

<strong>The</strong> strong heritage of Redken means<br />

that it understands how transforming<br />

education can be, and its tribe of regional<br />

heroes running courses up and down the<br />

country drive home this message.<br />

“In a Redken classroom they will<br />

encourage you to ask a question early on,<br />

and they will make you feel very special.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y throw it back to the whole room<br />

and that brings the room alive,” says Lee<br />

Stafford, educator and Redken global<br />

artist. “It’s really about coaching and<br />

facilitation, Redken believes the answer<br />

is in the room.”<br />

Global artists<br />

AJ Blackadder is a Redken Tribe member<br />

and has spent the past 18 months being<br />

mentored by Redken in New York<br />

and London’s Redken Exchanges, as<br />

part of the brand’s Global Mentoring<br />

36 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


EDUCATION<br />

Kelly Scott<br />

Programme. “It’s been an amazing and, at<br />

times, challenging course, but I’ve learnt<br />

so much to help me educate, present and<br />

facilitate to an international standard that<br />

Redken artists use worldwide,” says AJ. “It’s<br />

been great to be the student and embrace a new<br />

way of doing something I’ve had the privilege of doing<br />

for decades.”<br />

AJ attends as many educational opportunities as<br />

possible. “You’re exposed to a variety of education<br />

and events that Redken offers. Whether it’s design or<br />

colouring, new product launches and updates, guest<br />

artist events, such as when Guido and Josh Wood did<br />

Creative HEAD’s <strong>The</strong> Coterie last year, European and<br />

Las Vegas Symposiums right through to fundamental<br />

and advanced specialist programmes; there’s courses,<br />

events and coaching for everyone,” he adds.<br />

Symposium<br />

But learning doesn’t stop there, as Michelle Marshall<br />

discovered when she attended the Redken Symposium<br />

in Las Vegas. <strong>The</strong> Symposium is a chance for Redken<br />

stylists from all over the world to get together and<br />

learn, network and be inspired by some of the most<br />

sought-after educators in the world.<br />

“I had the opportunity to meet with the<br />

ambassadors for the brand, while attending a variety of<br />

educational seminars,” explains Michelle. “It completely<br />

opened my eyes to what you can do and how you can<br />

work as a team. I came back stronger and better.”<br />

Personalisation<br />

Learning happens everywhere – in the classroom, at<br />

events, but also in your salon. Bespoke in-salon training<br />

is perfect for those that don’t want to sing from the<br />

same hymn sheet as everyone else. Redken offers you<br />

the opportunity to tailor your education to exactly what<br />

you and your team need, on a rolling monthly basis.<br />

In-salon education can offer you and your salon the<br />

chance to receive targeted knowledge, helping to fill in<br />

any gaps in your team’s skills repertoire.<br />

Keith Owen from Owen Hair Design teaches<br />

Redken courses more than he attends them now, but<br />

he still tries to ensure the salon team receives in-salon<br />

training from Redken whenever possible. “We prefer to<br />

get the whole team involved with training, and it’s easier<br />

and more cost effective to do it in-salon,” he says.<br />

Cost is a key consideration. For salons with already<br />

stretched budgets, education is often the first thing<br />

to go. Not only is it time out of the salon, but not all<br />

courses turn out to be as relevant as initially hoped.<br />

With in-salon training, you have the opportunity to<br />

hand-pick the courses you want your team to get clued<br />

up on, while bringing the costs more in-line with your<br />

budget. No matter what, never stop learning. Start your<br />

training today, for a better, brighter future.<br />

Kelly Scott, artistic director<br />

at Strands Hairdressing and<br />

Redken global artist, reveals<br />

how far Redken can take you<br />

“I HAD MY FIRST experience of<br />

Redken education when I was just 16<br />

years old. It was a product knowledge<br />

class and I had no idea how far I would<br />

come or the opportunities that awaited<br />

me back then. As my career developed,<br />

Redken has always been present.<br />

I attended my first Redken<br />

Symposium when I was 21 and that is<br />

what changed everything for me. I was<br />

a senior stylist confident in my craft<br />

and I wanted to get on that stage and be<br />

an international Redken artist.<br />

Since then, I’ve been supported<br />

every step of the way by Redken. I teach<br />

at Redken’s London and Manchester<br />

Exchanges, as well as at New York’s<br />

Exchange on 5th Avenue. I also provide<br />

personalised in-salon training, I’ve<br />

travelled across the world for the<br />

brand and met and worked with some<br />

truly great and inspiring people. I’ve<br />

also presented on stage for many<br />

of Redken’s big events. We are now<br />

planning 2019’s Symposium – it’s going<br />

to be amazing and I can’t wait.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> thing I love most about<br />

Redken education is that it’s learningfocused.<br />

It’s all about the people<br />

that come to your classes. Helping<br />

them achieve their outcomes, giving<br />

them new methods that will help them<br />

be better at what they do every day.<br />

It’s all in the motto ‘Learn Better, Earn<br />

Better so you can Live your Best Life.’<br />

Redken also has a great programme to<br />

support its artists.<br />

“We all support each other, we are<br />

responsible for each other and just as I<br />

want to do my best work, so do others.<br />

It’s thanks to Redken’s commitment<br />

that I’m the hairdresser I am today.”<br />

DIARY DATES<br />

THE THREE KEY REDKEN<br />

COURSES TO INCLUDE IN<br />

YOUR EDUCATION CALENDAR<br />

Creative Business<br />

Coaching Journey with<br />

Carolyn Sweeney<br />

On this four-day course, salon<br />

owners and managers will learn how<br />

to motivate stylists to increase clients<br />

bills, additional services and retail.<br />

4You can also attend individual dates<br />

as standalone sessions.<br />

When and where:<br />

5 September, 26 September,<br />

23 October, 14 November,<br />

London<br />

Your Future Color – with<br />

international Redken artist<br />

AJ Blackadder<br />

Discover how to plan, progress and<br />

evolve your client’s colour journey,<br />

while reigniting your passion for<br />

colour and growing your clientele.<br />

When and where:<br />

15 October, London<br />

Game of Blondes with<br />

Kelly Scott and adam browne<br />

This two-day course comes straight<br />

from NYC and will give you all the<br />

tips and tricks you need. Learn<br />

how to identify the products and<br />

techniques to make your blondes<br />

the very best.<br />

When and where:<br />

22 and 23 October, London<br />

TO BOOK, VISIT<br />

LOREALACCESS.COM/UK<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 37


RECRUITMENT<br />

WANT TO BE<br />

DIFFERENT?<br />

DO YOU WANT TO BE PART OF A DYNAMIC BRAND<br />

COMMITTED TO INDUSTRY INNOVATION?<br />

DO YOU WANT TO BE PART OF AN EXCITING<br />

NEW MOVEMENT IN HAIR?<br />

WANT TO LEARN, EARN AND LIVE BETTER?<br />

IF THIS IS YOU,<br />

REDKEN WANTS YOU<br />

Redken is exploding. We are looking for talented, modern industry<br />

enthusiasts to join our Tribe in Commercial and Education roles nationwide.<br />

WANT TO BE A PART OF IT?<br />

Get in touch today. Email us at info.redken@loreal.com to find out more.


HERE COME THE GELS...<br />

THE REDKEN COLOR REVOLUTION STARTS HERE!<br />

DISCOVER THE NEW LIQUID LACQUERS THAT<br />

ARE REINVENTING PERMANENT HAIR COLOR!<br />

WITH ADAM BROWNE, INTERNATIONAL REDKEN ARTIST<br />

EVENT<br />

Join Adam and other leading industry influencers for inspirational<br />

nights of color, with live model transformations and techniques.<br />

EVENT DATES:<br />

10 TH SEPTEMBER – LONDON<br />

17 TH SEPTEMBER – MANCHESTER<br />

24 TH SEPTEMBER – BRISTOL<br />

WANT TO BE A PART OF IT?<br />

Contact your Sales Consultant to book an event.<br />

Not Redken? Want to find out more? Contact info.redken@loreal.com


Local<br />

heroes<br />

Beyond London and the UK’s biggest<br />

cities there are booming salon<br />

businesses that have blossomed over<br />

decades. What’s the secret to their<br />

continuing success? Let’s find out…<br />

“We’ve had some clients bring in<br />

children for their first haircuts…<br />

and now they’re bringing in their<br />

own children!”<br />

David Hyde<br />

David Anthony,<br />

Portsmouth<br />

“THE SECRET IS the team,<br />

admits David Hyde, founder of<br />

37-year-old David Anthony salon<br />

in Portsmouth. That’s what he<br />

puts his success down to – with<br />

five colleagues who have been<br />

with him for more than 25 years,<br />

it’s a consistency that clients love,<br />

a continuity. “<strong>The</strong>y know our<br />

faces, so our clients do feel like<br />

they’re coming into a family,” he<br />

smiles. “<strong>The</strong>re’s a lovely closeness.<br />

We’ve had some clients bring in<br />

children for their first haircuts…<br />

and now they’re bringing in their<br />

own children! It’s lovely.”<br />

Having been laser-focused to<br />

own his own salon by the age of 21,<br />

David worked hard and saved even<br />

harder to achieve that goal, with<br />

two months to spare. “I’m very<br />

driven, and you’ve got to move<br />

with the times,” he admits. “I still<br />

train, attend launches, and that is<br />

part of it – I enjoy that. It’s very<br />

easy in hairdressing to fall behind.”<br />

Education is a priority, and<br />

it’s here that his product partner<br />

of 25 years, Redken, has excelled.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> support we get from Redken<br />

is immense; we’re not a London<br />

salon and through Redken we<br />

get to work with names I don’t<br />

think we’d see otherwise, like Lee<br />

Stafford and AJ Blackadder. And<br />

they come to us, spending a whole<br />

day with the team. It’s brilliant.”<br />

And the family vibe isn’t<br />

confined to the salon. “Redken<br />

feels like part of the team, we’re<br />

part of a tribe,” he says fondly.<br />

“We go to events and we know the<br />

other salons there, and there’s no<br />

rivalry. We’re all in it together.”<br />

40 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


LOCAL HEROES<br />

Aesthetics,<br />

Solihull<br />

THE EXCITEMENT with which<br />

Sarah Bowron, co-founder of<br />

Aesthetics with partner Adrian<br />

Bowron, approaches her brand<br />

and her team is palpable. “We’re<br />

always looking ahead – what’s<br />

done is done,” she says bluntly.<br />

Recognising how time-poor<br />

people are now, Aesthetics wants<br />

to ensure “clients are enjoying<br />

their time with us, and that they’ll<br />

leave buzzing with new ideas – not<br />

just hair, but how we’ve done the<br />

flowers or the coffee”. Sarah puts<br />

the brand’s longevity down to<br />

being authentic and doing really,<br />

really good hair. Training has also<br />

been vital. “We invest massively in<br />

our team, have regular meetings<br />

and ‘play dates’. Every salon owner<br />

knows you are only as good as the<br />

people you’re working with.”<br />

Retail has also been a huge<br />

success (a change in pricing<br />

strategy has seen sales rise £6,000<br />

in its first two months), and Sarah<br />

stresses the importance of value.<br />

“When you get to front of house,<br />

the bill can look expensive. A<br />

complimentary bottle of Redken<br />

shampoo and conditioner softens<br />

it,” she explains. “<strong>The</strong> client’s<br />

perceived value is way higher than<br />

the actual value to the salon, and<br />

that’s a £150 or more colour or<br />

extensions service for the salon, so<br />

it’s a win-win.”<br />

“Every salon owner<br />

knows you are only<br />

as good as the people<br />

you’re working with”<br />

Sarah Bowron<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 41


Creations,<br />

Chichester<br />

“IF YOU cut me, CAT comes<br />

out of my veins! I’m Redken for<br />

life!” Carolyn Sweeney’s laugh<br />

is infectious; a warmth and<br />

intelligence radiate from her as<br />

she discusses her 20-year-old<br />

salon, and her adored team, 80<br />

per cent of whom have been with<br />

her for more than 10 years. And<br />

it’s the team she cites as the secret<br />

of Creations’ success. “If you<br />

don’t keep educating and get the<br />

team right, you won’t have client<br />

longevity,” she says simply.<br />

But it’s also about cash flow,<br />

she adds, and being in control of<br />

your own finances. “We all have<br />

good and bad times, but cash is<br />

king. You’ve got to make sure that<br />

the money is in the bank before<br />

you invest in anything. And the<br />

team needs to know that – if they<br />

want education or new basins,<br />

the money has to come from<br />

somewhere,” she says. As soon<br />

as someone graduates from the<br />

Creations Academy, they’re<br />

expected to attend three Redken<br />

colour courses – Highlights, Color<br />

ER and Principals of Color, to<br />

ensure everyone is fully immersed<br />

in the world of Redken colour.<br />

It’s this level of skill and craft<br />

that Carolyn believes should be<br />

pushing salon owners to increase<br />

their prices. “Our industry still<br />

desperately under-charges for<br />

what we do. Deliver beautiful<br />

hairdressing and charge for what<br />

you deliver… and stop being<br />

scared. Aren’t you better off with<br />

one haircut at £50 than two cuts<br />

at £25? <strong>The</strong>re is no other industry<br />

holding prices down like ours!”<br />

“If you don’t keep educating<br />

and get the team right, you<br />

won’t have client longevity”<br />

Carolyn Sweeney<br />

42 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


LOCAL HEROES<br />

Strands<br />

Hairdressing,<br />

Fareham<br />

“THERE’S NO SECRET – it’s just<br />

doing it!” exclaims Pauline Howe,<br />

the brains behind Hampshire’s<br />

Strands Hairdressing salons, when<br />

asked about her success. Strands<br />

is now 31 years old and a prime<br />

example of a regional salon that<br />

thinks big (just ask Kelly Scott, a<br />

global Redken artist who works<br />

here). “Sometimes people think<br />

you’ll open the doors and it’ll be<br />

a success overnight, but business<br />

isn’t like that,” she laughs. “If you<br />

do something that you really like,<br />

and you do it for long enough,<br />

you’ll be successful. ”<br />

It’s that work ethic that hums<br />

along in Strands. “You and your<br />

staff need to keep up-to-date with<br />

the industry and trends, because<br />

things are always moving. As I get<br />

older, I have to ensure my salon<br />

stays top in the area, that people<br />

want to talk about and visit.”<br />

How does she do it? “You<br />

need to read magazines like<br />

Creative HEAD and attend events.<br />

It is difficult to stay interested and<br />

motivated. Sometimes I’m guilty<br />

of thinking ‘I’ve done that before’,<br />

but the young stylists in the salon<br />

haven’t. You need to feed from<br />

their enthusiasm.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> choice of brand partner<br />

has also been instrumental.<br />

“Choose one that fits your salon,<br />

develop a really good relationship.<br />

For us, this is Redken,” she adds.<br />

“You and your staff<br />

need to keep up-to-date<br />

with the industry and<br />

trends, because things<br />

are always moving”<br />

Pauline Howe<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 43


BRIGHT IDEA<br />

<strong>The</strong> Ear Candy Styling Menu<br />

Chelsea favourites Lockonego London collaborate with Redken on a<br />

styling menu that’s bang on trend with the piercing craze, and perfect<br />

for any party those chic Sloanes will be attending…<br />

Side Sweep<br />

<strong>The</strong> Slick<br />

44 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


BRIGHT IDEA<br />

WANNA BE ADORNED? Any<br />

glance across Instagram will<br />

illustrate the worth of a statement<br />

earring – US jeweller Maria Tash<br />

launched her piercing palace in<br />

London’s iconic Liberty and<br />

Milan Fashion Week catwalks<br />

were heaving with earrings (we’re<br />

looking at you, Versace and Dolce<br />

& Gabbana). So, if your clients<br />

have spent their pounds piercing<br />

up a storm, they’ll want to show<br />

off that bling. Enter statement<br />

hair from Chelsea favourites<br />

Lockonego London and its Ear<br />

Candy menu, by salon co-founder<br />

Jonathan Long (pictured inset).<br />

Perfect for those with<br />

exhibitionistic ears and look-atme<br />

lobes, the menu uses iconic<br />

backstage styling products from<br />

Redken to create inspirational<br />

styles that are adaptable to a<br />

client’s hair texture and length.<br />

It’s a great example of a business<br />

bringing a wider trend into a<br />

salon, and spot-on for party looks<br />

(plenty of those in Chelsea).<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are four styles that<br />

will give any ear the exposure<br />

it deserves, with prices starting<br />

from £35. But what to choose?<br />

Side Sweep is inspired by the ’90s<br />

Super, a deep side-parting with<br />

undone luxe waves exposing<br />

your one-sided ear candy, while<br />

<strong>The</strong> Slick is a contrasting<br />

collaboration – wet up front,<br />

dry and textured at the back,<br />

with hair tucked behind both ears<br />

to display adorned lobes. <strong>The</strong><br />

Braided Bun is a ‘3-in-1’ up-do<br />

pinned into place with jewels<br />

on show, while Sideshow Bob<br />

celebrates a classic blunt bob cut<br />

with personality. Time to get your<br />

rocks on…<br />

Braided Bun<br />

Sideshow Bob<br />

“Perfect for those with exhibitionistic ears and look-at-me<br />

lobes, the menu uses iconic backstage styling products from<br />

Redken to create inspirational styles”<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 45


“We have opened up our retail<br />

area so clients feel free to look,<br />

touch and feel the products, and<br />

this has worked wonderfully”<br />

Jonathan Long, Lockonego<br />

Let’s get emotional<br />

<strong>The</strong> high street needs to rethink how it engages consumers if it wants them to keep spending.<br />

We investigate how to get people through the salon doors… and wow them while they’re there!<br />

<strong>The</strong> UK high street is an increasingly<br />

tough place to operate. Today,<br />

200,000 fewer women are walking<br />

into hair salons compared with a year<br />

ago.* With a saturated market, rising<br />

online players and declining visits, the<br />

in-person experience has never been more<br />

valuable. Consider the journey of your<br />

client through her appointment with you,<br />

and it might just make all the difference.<br />

Creating a space that people want<br />

to visit – to linger and relax in – makes<br />

a big difference to loyalty, to trust and<br />

to spend. Novelty and service challenge<br />

that loyalty; it means that the pressure<br />

is on salons to stay relevant for their<br />

clients. L’Oréal Professional Product<br />

Division’s transformative Salon Emotion<br />

programme has targeted a similar agenda.<br />

It’s about offering training and raising<br />

awareness of services, personalised<br />

advice and guidance on modernising<br />

salons; providing more services and more<br />

personalisation throughout a client’s<br />

journey through the salon at every<br />

possible touchpoint.<br />

When Chelsea’s Lockonego suffered<br />

a flood, co-founder Jonathan Long used<br />

it as an opportunity to revamp the salon’s<br />

concept from scratch. “We worked with<br />

Salon Emotion and the designer to plan<br />

out the retail, backwash and mask bar<br />

concepts,” explains Jonathan. “We came<br />

up with a concept: a private members<br />

club/gastro pub vibe. It has bare brick,<br />

parquet floor, wood panels, splashes of<br />

colour... but, most of all, a salon that didn’t<br />

look like a traditional salon, a really light<br />

and open environment.”<br />

At Blend in Derby, Jo Pilbeam’s<br />

experience with the programme has<br />

helped her future-proof her salon against<br />

online retail. “Salon Emotion was great<br />

at helping us to create a proper client<br />

journey. We like to get the clients involved<br />

by touching and smelling products on our<br />

Try Me Table, where you can have a play.<br />

Creating a retail area has been great for<br />

customer experience, and makes it feel<br />

like a retail shop.”<br />

But how to get people through<br />

the salon door in the first place? It’s a<br />

challenge. <strong>The</strong> average attention span has<br />

dropped from 12 seconds to just eight.*<br />

Lockonego<br />

46 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


RETAIL<br />

“Digital windows are so<br />

attention grabbing. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

really stop passers-by in<br />

their tracks and show off<br />

the latest hair trends and<br />

new products”<br />

Standing out on the high street is vital<br />

to salon survival. A key innovation that’s<br />

making a real impact is motion windows,<br />

a powerful way to modernise your salon<br />

window display (Lockonego now has one<br />

in its Kings Road location).<br />

“Our digital windows are so attention<br />

grabbing. <strong>The</strong>y really stop passers-by in<br />

their tracks and show off the latest hair<br />

trends and new products,” says Andrew<br />

Rodgers, founder of Funky Divas salons<br />

in Sheffield. On a practical front, it also<br />

makes it easier to change your visuals<br />

regularly and keep your messages and<br />

images fresh, and the movement helps<br />

attract more attention.<br />

In retail research, digital posters<br />

have proved to be six-times more visible<br />

and attract up to 33 per cent more new<br />

customers.* More than three-quarters of<br />

customers are influenced by videos at the<br />

point of sale, too.<br />

Some of it is about hitting your basic<br />

points – can your salon be found easily<br />

online, and does it look incredible? Is<br />

offering clear to potential customers? Are<br />

key products on display, with star goodies<br />

shown ? Are you encouraging clients<br />

to share their finished looks and leave<br />

gushingly good reviews of your team ?<br />

An incredible 68 per cent of women<br />

feel anxious entering the salon for the first<br />

time,* so you want to be as encouraging<br />

and inviting as possible.<br />

And make any kind of wait as<br />

enjoyable as possible – our obsession with<br />

coffee is a great place to start. Radio Hair<br />

in King’s Cross and Sheffield’s Laundry<br />

include barista-hosted coffee areas in their<br />

salons, elevating the customer experience<br />

in a sensorial, modern way.<br />

One of the main steps in Salon<br />

Emotion is the consultation. While some<br />

salons will carry this out at the styling<br />

station, it’s worth considering a<br />

dedicated area with two chairs to allow<br />

a true ‘face to face’ consultation – no<br />

mirror-based conversations.<br />

Here, you can bring the discussion<br />

alive with diagnosis tools, service menus,<br />

colour charts and even iPads loaded up<br />

with Pinterest boards or even an app that<br />

help clients visualise key looks on a selfie.<br />

Redken even updates a Pinterest page<br />

(@RedkenUKI) for a brilliant array of<br />

looks, and Josh Wood is well-known for<br />

reaching for Pinterest boards for his insalon<br />

consultations.<br />

Consultations are also brilliant<br />

at helping sell products – in fact, 90<br />

per cent of the sale is made during the<br />

consultation.* How? Because this is<br />

where a hairdresser can illustrate their<br />

knowledge and expertise, and genuinely<br />

recommend the perfect matches to each<br />

guest sat chatting to them.<br />

A vital element of this is the notion<br />

of ‘retailment’, showcasing your skills<br />

in front of your customer, use tools to<br />

diagnose the ideal treatment and prescribe<br />

a homecare regime. It’s also about creating<br />

moments of theatre to thrill and excite.<br />

<strong>The</strong> colour bar is a chance to<br />

showcase what makes you different. And<br />

with 86 per cent of women citing this as<br />

their favourite moment in salon, it’s an<br />

element to get everything spot on.<br />

Laundry<br />

*TNS study on ‘women and hairstylists’ in four<br />

countries 2012, data client wave panel UK 2012<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 47


Live True communal colour consultation tables<br />

Lockonego<br />

If it’s not right, 70 per cent of women<br />

say they won’t return.*<br />

<strong>The</strong> back bar needs to be located in<br />

a quieter area, separate from the buzzy<br />

salon atmosphere. Think dimmable lights,<br />

a partition wall or even a separate room<br />

for more relaxation. It’s a great place to<br />

add some branding, with products on<br />

clear display alongside treatment menus.<br />

Of course, clients don’t want to invest<br />

in salon appointments and products if<br />

they can’t reproduce the look they love<br />

at home. Recent studies have shown that<br />

consumers really trust their hairdresser<br />

and will buy into a recommendation,<br />

regardless of price.<br />

Indeed, this recommendation<br />

approach seems to be what clients are<br />

missing – 54 per cent of customers don’t<br />

buy because ‘nothing was recommended’.*<br />

Only 8 per cent said that price was the<br />

issue.* With merchandising tools and a<br />

fresh strategy, your staff won’t need to<br />

apply the hard sell. Perhaps a communal<br />

table without a mirror where customers<br />

can relax, read, use iPads or test products,<br />

is worth considering.<br />

At Lockonego, Jonathan knew he<br />

wanted to expand and adapt his retail<br />

offering to create a more involved<br />

experience. “We have opened up our<br />

retail area so clients feel free to touch and<br />

feel the products, and this has worked<br />

wonderfully for us. Sales are up<br />

15 per cent,” he explains. “<strong>The</strong> mask<br />

bar has been successful as it gets the<br />

conversation started, and we can create<br />

bespoke treatments for each individual<br />

client. We introduced a new way of taking<br />

bills that has also improved our sales.”<br />

Retail areas at George Northwood<br />

and <strong>The</strong> Chapel are stand- out examples<br />

– visible and accessible. Clear pricing and<br />

navigation for self-service are important<br />

too. Redken has created shelf talkers,<br />

designed in the language that people<br />

search in – think ‘for coloured hair’ and<br />

‘for flat hair’, alongside clipper card stands<br />

that call out ‘#trending’, ‘best sellers’, and<br />

‘new arrivals’. This helps close the loop on<br />

all the buzz clients will have seen about<br />

Redken products across social media,<br />

particularly from influencers.<br />

Salon events where clients can try<br />

out services and products can also have a<br />

feel good boost on retail sales and client<br />

engagement. A great example is the Big<br />

Hair Do, where 100 salons open their<br />

doors for one night in September.<br />

Finally, once that client is finished and<br />

looking fabulous in your chair, get them<br />

to share.<br />

“<strong>The</strong> power of the selfie today on<br />

social media is huge – and it’s a fantastic<br />

advertisement for your staff’s skills.<br />

So think about getting those selfies on<br />

point,” advises Melissa Fernandez, UK and<br />

Ireland general manager for Redken.<br />

Eleven Hair has designed a 3D flower<br />

wall for clients to capture their selfie<br />

looks, while Liverpool’s Voodou has<br />

a neon ‘Fit Hair’ light, as well as selfie<br />

backdrop. No wonder an increasingly<br />

standard piece of kit in the salon is a ring<br />

light, for the most flattering light possible.<br />

*TNS study on ‘women and hairstylists’ in four<br />

countries 2012, data client wave panel UK 2012<br />

48 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


RETAIL<br />

Innovation<br />

BRINGING IN NEW PRODUCTS<br />

that can catch the customer’s eye<br />

is still the easiest way to ramp up<br />

retail within salons. Redken has won<br />

more awards for its products than<br />

any other professional brand, and<br />

for good reason. Forward-thinking<br />

and progressive, Redken’s strong<br />

scientific heritage<br />

means that it is<br />

always pushing<br />

the boundaries<br />

and expectations<br />

of what can<br />

be created. Its<br />

Korean-inspired<br />

All Soft Mega<br />

Sheet Mask has<br />

that element of<br />

play and fun which<br />

is so crucial when<br />

introducing clients<br />

to something new.<br />

It’s the perfect little packet to keep<br />

at the reception desk, curious clients<br />

will find it a little bit intriguing and<br />

it offers the impulse purchasing that<br />

so many high street fashion retailers<br />

do so well! Also concerned with the<br />

health of hair in an age of bleaching<br />

and processing (thanks Instagram!)<br />

is the new Color Extend Blondage<br />

care line, developed in response to<br />

hairdresser demand for a purplepigmented<br />

shampoo within the<br />

Redken portfolio. It ticks a big box<br />

in terms of customer demand,<br />

addressing a huge search trend for<br />

how to solve brassiness and breakage<br />

in super blonde hair. Meanwhile<br />

the recent launch of the Redken<br />

Brews range for men similarly<br />

invokes familiarity and ease, with its<br />

beer-bottle shapes and malt-infused<br />

formulas, underpinned by the range’s<br />

scientific credentials. Redken Brews’<br />

new Cut & Camo service offers<br />

the perfect blend of quick colour,<br />

in just five minutes, and a fresh<br />

cut – more services and less time<br />

required means smarter sales. With<br />

more and more designers wanting an<br />

artfully undone look, Redken global<br />

creative director, Guido Palau,<br />

was frustrated that nothing he had in<br />

his kit seemed to create the desired<br />

effect. <strong>The</strong> Redken No Blow Dry Air<br />

Stylers are the result of his work<br />

with the brand’s innovation team to<br />

create products for the perfect air<br />

dry look, no matter the hair texture.<br />

While created with a fashion angle,<br />

the rising popularity of natural hair<br />

texture creates that link to your<br />

client, bringing the creative ideas of<br />

the catwalk to the salon.<br />

Voodou<br />

Staying on top of current trends –<br />

especially wider beauty trends rather than<br />

just the latest in hair – can also serve as<br />

a distinct way to stand out among peers.<br />

Lockonego’s new Ear Candy styles (see<br />

page 44) have been designed to show<br />

off the statement earring trend seen<br />

across the catwalks. Other key trends to<br />

pick up on include blow-dry bars for the<br />

athleisure trend and the always-switchedon<br />

city types, the rise of vegan or natural<br />

ingredients and environmentally-friendly<br />

packaging, or even skincare-inspired<br />

ingredients and formulations such as scalp<br />

scrubs. Successful salon retail, like the best<br />

ideas, cannot flourish in a vacuum.<br />

Eleven Hair<br />

WANT TO LEARN<br />

HOW TO REFOCUS<br />

YOUR CUSTOMER<br />

EXPERIENCE<br />

AND GROW YOUR<br />

BUSINESS?<br />

Redken will be hosting<br />

complimentary Salon<br />

Emotion events this<br />

October.<br />

To book, email<br />

info.redken@loreal.com<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong> 49


ONLINE BRANDING<br />

#OWNIT!<br />

GONE ARE THE times when you would send out a PR and marketing message<br />

and sit tight and wait for it to take off. With social media being an integral<br />

communication channel for modern day, thriving businesses, it’s possible to strike<br />

up lively, thought-provoking conversation in real-time. Mitchell Wilson, owner<br />

of Laundry in Sheffield, decided to promote his business by styling four looks in<br />

one day on the same client. “We wanted to illustrate that we are creative, using<br />

social media to share our work and push our brand to our clients, who actively<br />

follow and engage with us online,” he says. “<strong>The</strong>se types of ideas naturally require<br />

a lot of careful planning and coordination, but the real-time aspect of showing the<br />

transformation of one client across cutting, colouring and styling, proved really<br />

popular with our followers.” Social media allows you to constantly reinvent yourself<br />

as a business and create a unique brand identity in part shaped by the community<br />

you create – and Redken is the perfect brand partner for it.<br />

STANDING OUT ON SOCIAL MEDIA MEANS BUILDING A TRUSTED<br />

COMMUNITY THAT:<br />

● KNOWS WHO YOU ARE<br />

● LIKES WHO YOU ARE<br />

● LOVES WHAT YOUR BUSINESS IS ABOUT<br />

You need to own the story, think about the message and<br />

make it a true reflection of your business and you. Mitchell<br />

Wilson is keen to get disruptive and do more – how about you?<br />

#BEDIFFERENTBEREDKEN<br />

Hair by Mitchell Wilson for Laundry, assisted by Jake Richmond-Brough and Gareth McAughley. Photography by Nick Eagle<br />

50 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Outliers</strong>


Emma Delury<br />

for Redken 5th Avenue<br />

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