Creative HEAD UK July 2020

In print•online•everywhere!

£4.50 JULY 2020

STRONGER

TOGETHER

STRONGER TOGETHER

During times of change, during times of

hardship, during times of joy and of sorrow

– we can overcome and conquer common challenges

when we stand together. As an industry, it has never

een more important to dene and shape our agenda

for the way forward. It will only be by working together

and supporting each other that this will be achieved

and L’Oréal Professionnel is dedicated to doing just that.

Alongside the L’Oréal Professional Products

Division portfolio of brands we have devised a variety

of support packages and initiatives to the wider

hairdressing industry and partnering with trade bodies

such as the British Beauty Council and NHBF.

We continue to work hand-in-hand with the beauty

and creative communities and our salon partners.

From practical support in the form of Back-to-

Business and Hygiene guides,* to freezing payments

due from end of March for all independent salons

while they remain closed, we are there to help as

salons open their doors again.

Standing alongside salons, a full programme of complimentary digital

education has also been produced and is available on the virtual education

platform Access. With more than 30,000 UK and Ireland Access users,

L’Oréal Professional Products Division has enaled and offered a wealth of

fundamental education, helping hairdressers at every level to continue their

training, to be prepared and inspired for re-opening.

s we enter a new world together, we not only need to reect on previous

achievements but also draw on our resilience and adaptability to embolden

ourselves for the future. It will be this preparation of the highest safety

and hygiene standards, together with our business agility, that will help

us successfully navigate this new normality and continue to delight our

devoted clients.

The following pages will hopefully provide some inspiration, positivity and

helpful information from the community as we all start a new chapter. What

we do today will dene our tomorrow L’Oréal Professionnel is with you,

and the entire industry, every step of the way.”

Mica Teodo, general manager, L ’Oréal Preß inel UK & Ireland

Daniel Galvin OBE

Sinéad Kelly

Jamie Stevens

Jason and India MIller

Sally Brooks

Lorenzo Colangelo

Trevor Sorbie MBE

Charles Worthington MBE

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

UNITED BY

#PROPOSITIVITY

As lockdown became real, L’Oréal Professionnel wanted to show how

it stood by salons, stylists and their beloved clientele. It delivered

#PROPOSITIVITY, an online initiative to keep hairdressers connected with

their community and clients. Spearheaded by industry icon Trevor Sorbie

MBE, #PROPOSITIVITY became a place for advice, ideas and stories on

how others navigate the issues presented by Covid-19.

“The L’Oréal Professionnel #PROPOSITIVITY campaign allowed us

all to share and connect with our industry,” Trevor explains. “I’ve shared

multiple ideas and strategies that have helped me to achieve my goals.”

The campaign also saw, to name but a few examples, Lorenzo Colangelo,

owner of The Gallery in Southborough, discuss the books that have

guided his philosophy and positivity throughout his career.

Jamie Stevens, director of Jamie Stevens Hair Salons, took the time to

ruminate over how a career in hair provides a lifetime of useful skills and

unleashes creative potential.

Sally Brooks encapsulated her glass half-full approach to work and life

that has seen Brooks & Brooks become one of the most successful salons

in London.

I

the importance of refreshing skills and learning new ones.

BACK TO BUSINESS

YOUR SALON LOOKS AND FEELS QUITE DIFFERENT NOW YOU ARE BACK.

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION IS HERE TO HELP YOUR TRANSITION TO THE NEW NORMAL

Re-evaluate your service offerings to identify changes you need to make. Quick, effective colour services

using Majirel and Dia or colour removal with Effasor from L’Oréal Professionnel are your key players for

shorter appointments. Here are some salons that feel the need for speed…

DARREN FOWLER,

FOWLER35

JENNIFER LINTON,

LINTON & MAC

ANDREW WILLIAMS,

WILLIAMS & RICE

ANGIE DROMGOOLE,

ZEBA HAIRDRESSING

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THE FUTURE IS HERE

ONE OF THE FIRST COVID-ADAPTED SALONS, GATSBY & MILLER

ILLUSTRATES HOW THE SALON CAN STUN AFTER LOCKDOWN

John Roads, founder of super-salon Gatsby & Miller in

Amersham, knew his salon needed to change post-lockdown,

and the salon journey had to be updated. He set about

clients and how to minimise exposure while still retaining the

levels of service the salon is known for.

LO P

customers feel safe and supported. “We’ve really enjoyed

working with the brand,” he told us. “The guidelines have been

incredibly useful.” Sourcing protective equipment has been

helped immensely through the salon’s partnership with L’Oréal

Professionnel. “The brand has been a great source of comfort at

a time when the supply chain is troubled,” John explains.

ACCESS ALL AREAS

AS STYLISTS FOUND THEMSELVES LOCKED DOWN, ACCESS FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION

PROVIDED A VIRTUAL WORLD OF PROGRAMMES AND CONTENT AVAILABLE TO ALL

There’s so much to consider as salons re-open, it can be hard to know where to

start. Sometimes it’s best to go back to basics and re-learn from the ground up. The

fundamentals of hairdressing education are key at this time as we consider how to do

business in the new normal. Knowing your essential skills inside-out means that you can

A A

LO P P D

B UK I O

T LO P K 1 2

were made free for six months at the beginning of lockdown, and the response has

1994

T H A LO

P

The Covid-19 crisis has changed things in so many ways, and we are about to

see how this will impact our business. We care for our clients; it is crucial that they

feel valued, listened to individually and have received a service that is value for money too.

Our team is like a family - they matter, their opinions, their voices and their needs. It’s

always been our ethos that they know and understand this, and so do our clients. So

even more so now: what are their fears, what will reassure them and how do we get

them back into doing what they love the most? Ultimately, returning to the salon is about

connecting with each other, and the social aspect of visiting the salon again.”

Sara Holmes, direcr, Sart Holmes

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£11 H

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T H B UK L G B I

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Education is ALWAYS key, no matter what else is going on. But in these

strange times education is more important than ever. It’s been able to give you

something to activate your mind, an opportunity to brush up on skills that you have let

slip, and an opportunity to look at planning your future education needs and desires.

Whether that’s looking into a whole new skill set or setting your plans to achieve an

upgrade to existing skills, L’Oréal Access has everything that you need, set out perfectly

for you to achieve all of your education goals, whatever level you are.”

Adam Reed, ner, Adam Reed Ld

BY YOUR SIDE

HERE ARE JUST SOME OF THE SUPPORT MEASURES IN PLACE

FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION:

•A Back to Business Salon Support Guide*

to help salons prepare for a safe reopening.

•Hygiene & Safety Guidelines* created in

collaboration with trade bodies the NHBF

and British Beauty Council.

•The procurement of more than one

million masks and production of more

than 100,000 hand sanitiser gels for

UK and Irish salons.

•Since 26 March 2020, L’Oréal Professional

Products Division has frozen payments due

from all independent salons.

* Please note that through any information supplied within any guides, this article, any courses offered or any other means, L’Oréal (UK) Limited is not providing legal or financial or other advice.

This information is not a substitute for obtaining independent legal or financial or other advice from any relevant third party such as an appointed accountant, solicitor or bank. L’Oréal wanted

to amass some information & resources in one easy place. You should, of course, not rely on any information, and ensure you have undertaken your own independent research alongside it.

** Please note that any certificates provided by L’Oréal (UK) Limited are not official accreditation for any regulated course and are not formalised by any external third party.


Discover how L’Oréal Professionnel can support your salon’s return to business.

T .. 000 030 4034

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Editor’s letter

46

64

BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AND BARBERING have never been

so valued and adored in the public eye as they are right now. Three

months (at least!) away from their salons, barbers and stylists means that

the public has a fresh understanding of the important role you play in the

fabric of life. You are a community advocate, a counsellor to so many, a purveyor

of self-esteem and confidence. For so long, the vast majority of the public and the

media just didn’t take this industry seriously. Well, now that they’re eager to get

back to the salon and government has seen first-hand the nation’s obsession with

hair, they’ll stop looking at it as an industry of school dropouts. Our Lockdown Liftoff

special (from page 46) celebrates salons opening once again and is packed

with the practical, from PPE to express services to help your business

recover. Yet while we mark this return we also need to face some difficult

realities. Apprentice numbers are down, Brexit threatens future

recruitment from EU countries because the Home Office deems

hairdressing as “lower skilled”, yet we have virtual queues for

services. Now is the time to harness the love and appreciation of

your craft and your place in society and ensure it helps make

a real difference.

Amanda Nottage

Editor

38

JOIN US!

Here’s to you, dear entrants,

because this is how YOU do

MWIT! Yes, thanks to you and

your exceptional effort and

awesome talent, entries to

Creative HEAD’s 2020 Most

Wanted and The It List

Awards arrived en masse.

And the wait is almost

over WIT fi nalists

will be announced online

on Wednesday 8 July.

Good luck, everybody!

Meanwhile, we’ve

revealed the shortlist for

the coveted Most Wanted

Hair Icon award, see

page 16. Congratulations

to all of our nominees.

creativeheadmag.com/events

SALON OWNERS: HAVE YOUR SAY!

TAKE PART IN OUR SKILLS AND IMMIGRATION

SURVEY AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM AND

YOU CAN HELP MAKE CHANGE! SEE PAGE 58

amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag

July

CREATIVE HEAD

Since 2000

WHAT’S INSIDE

62

ON THE COVER

L’Oréal Professionnel

68

FASHION

Clients will crave the new tones

and textures from Hazel & Haydn

A LITTLE LONGER

Many men have changed their styles

during lockdown – what does it mean

for barbers now they’re back?

74

20

IN THE FRAME

Robert Eaton shares

his lockdown life and

salon safety upgrades

RISING STAR

Tweedie & Marshall’s

Justine Weir shares

her dreams and goals

EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

DEBORAH MURTHA

STAFF WRITER

ANNA SAMSON

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ADAM WOOD

DIGITAL DESIGNER

EVA VESTMANN

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL ASSISTANT

KELSEY DRING

ONLINE AND

DIGITAL EDITOR

ALISON ROWLEY

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DAVID HAMMOND

SPECIAL PROJECTS

ASSISTANT

BELLA PETERS

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

JENNY BROOKS

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

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The edit

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

Colour the Cut Gold

Colour the Cut Silver

Colour the Cut Bronze

PETITION TO

MAKE AFRO

SKILLS PART

OF SYLLABUS

A CHANGE.ORG PETITION has been started

by a junior stylist at Blue Tit London to make

Afro hair education mandatory at all levels

of the NVQ syllabus as well as its soon-to-be

introduced replacement qualification, the

Trailblazer Apprenticeship standard.

Jemima Bradley’s Texture Matters petition

is gathering pace as the industry looks

more closely at issues surrounding diversity

following the recent Black Lives Matter

protests in the UK and the US. She wants to

help ensure all trainees are equipped with

a working knowledge of Afro hair, so that

they are able to give the best service to any

individual who sits in their chair. Jemima said:

“We need to get Afro hair out of the fringes of

education and make it compulsory.”

The petition’s goal is 25,000 signatures and

at time of press it stood at more than 17,000.

It has already received backing from names

such as Lisa Farrall and Little Mix stylist

Aaron Carlo, who said: “Hairstylists are

suffering with this lack of training. They’re

closing themselves off to a whole market of

clients. I would have lost out on so much work

if I wasn’t able to style textured hair.”

WATCH Jemima, Lisa and model

Sofi a Elhaj discuss this further

@creativeheadmag on Instagram TV

Creative Colour Gold

Creative Colour Silver

Wella announces

XPOSURE winners

WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS

revealed the winners of its 2020

XPOSURE competition.

Hairdressing students across the

UK and Ireland with fewer than

five years’ experience submitted

photographic entries showcasing

their skills in either Creative Colour

or Colour the Cut categories.

The live regional heats were

adapted into digital entries due to

the Covid-19 crisis, including a short

video explaining their entries, a

written document detailing the look

and drawings to fully illustrate the

techniques used.

“We have had a record number of

entries this year which, under the

current circumstances, is incredible.

The standard throughout has been

incredibly impressive. British

hairdressing is clearly in safe hands if

this entry level standard is anything

to go by,” said Allison Hargreaves,

national education operations and

events manager UK & Ireland.

Colour the Cut

GOLD Lily Cumper,

Reflections Training Academy

SILVER Roisin Moore,

House of Colour

BRONZE Chenise Johnson,

Fife College

Creative Colour

GOLD Siobhan Hearns,

Rhona McCallum Hair

SILVER Skye Lewis,

KH Hair

BRONZE Hannah Millar,

Frances Hunter

Creative Colour Bronze

16

#CHedit

MY month

AHEAD

What July has

in store for...

SALLY

BROOKS

NICOLA

CLARKE

GARY

GILL

SYD

HAYES

ZOË

IRWIN

NAOMI BROOKS

THE HAIR SANCTUARY

This will be the busiest July

we have ever seen. We’ll be

using new express menus

for our chemical services,

with only one client per stylist

in the salon at any time and

some stations closed to

keep stylists

apart, as well

as increased

hygiene and

PPE to protect

both staff

and clients.

GUIDO

PAL AU

ADAM

REED

EUGENE

SOULEIMAN

ANTHONY

TURNER

JOSH

WOOD

MOST WANTED

HAIR ICON

FINALISTS

REVEALED

FOLLOWING NOMINATIONS FROM 95 influencers from the worlds of hair, beauty, fashion and

the media, the shortlist of 10 names for Most Wanted’s Hair Icon award have been revealed for

2020. The category is to determine the most inspirational hairdresser, and is by nomination only.

In the line-up are session stars Syd Hayes, Guido Palau, Adam Reed, Eugene Souleiman

and Anthony Turner, who will be jostling for the trophy against colour legends Nicola Clarke,

Zoë Irwin and Josh Wood, and industry doyenne Sally Brooks. Backstage favourite Gary Gill

also scored his first ever shortlist place. In 2019, Sam McKnight scored his third Hair Icon win,

ensuring he now receives a second Most Wanted Legend trophy, having already scooped one for

winning three Most Wanted Session Stylist awards.

Judging will take place on 6 July, when a second panel of experts will determine who takes

home this most coveted trophy on 29 November – and in Most Wanted’s most fabulous 20th

anniversary year, no less!

For details on when the full list of Most Wanted and The It List 2020 finalists is revealed,

turn to page 36

COLIN MCANDREW

THE MEDUSA GROUP

I’m overseeing a refi t and

rebranding of our three new

salons while we wait to open

here in Edinburgh. We’re also

staging the Medusa 2020

Awards online, due to social

distancing, and running a

No Judgement campaign

to ensure

clients return

regardless of

what they’ve

done to their

hair during

lockdown.

SALON OWNERS:

HAVE YOUR SAY!

HAIRDRESSING HAS NEVER

BEEN MORE IMPORTANT

TO THE PUBLIC THAN IT

IS TODAY, BUT THERE IS A

CRISIS IN RECRUITMENT

TO OUR INDUSTRY THAT

WILL BE AFFECTED BY NEW

APPRENTICESHIPS AND NEW

IMMIGRATION RULES. TAKE

PART IN OUR SKILLS AND

IMMIGRATION SURVEY AT

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM AND

YOU CAN HELP BRING ABOUT

CHANGE! SEE PAGE 58

CREATIVE HEAD

17

#CHedit

STOCK

OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO

STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS

AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

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Get set for the

post-lockdown

rush with the latest

XpressColor shades

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IN-SALON SERVICE

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Good things come in small packages, so the saying

goes. And there’s plenty of goodness in these

specially curated three-piece My Minis collections

from ALFAPARF Milano, sporting designs from

Dublin illustrator Emma Kenny, whose fans include

Kardashians, Jenners and Hadids. We’re sold…

RRP £17.90 EACH

00353 458 56490

alfaparfmilano.com

Originally designed

and formulated for use

with Great Lengths

extensions, the new

Heat & Care Spray

from Great Lengths

is especially good

for textured hair,

with panthenol

to fight against

moisture loss.

RRP £15.95

0113 278 1292

greatlengths.com

Award-winning barber

Mr Sam Wall has

added Squeaky

Klean, a melonfragranced

hand

sanitiser, to his

Lets Ave It

product range.

RRP £4.99

AVAILABLE ONLINE

mrsamwall.co.uk

18

CREATIVE HEAD

Join our network of stylists

Hassle-free Trade Accounts with access to a wide

range of luxurious hair extensions and HABIA

approved training for professionals.

www.remicachet.com

WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE

A HAIRDRESSER?

I’ve always been really

creative with my own hair

and style. I knew I just

had to be a hairdresser!

From a young age I

watched my uncle doing

hair and I couldn’t wait

to have my own pair of

scissors. I love making

people feel beautiful and I

love chatting, so I knew I

wouldn’t last a minute in

an office. The salon is the

perfect home for me.

JUSTINE WEIR

AGE: 23

SALON: TWEEDIE & MARSHALL HAIRDRESSING

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS

SO FAR?

There have been so many!

I was so grateful to make it

to London to be part of the

Schwarzkopf Professional

Young Artist Team. It meant

I’ve worked with so many

amazing people and trained

with the best in the business

such as Lesley Jennison, and

Tyler Johnston on the Inspire

shoot. He’s the coolest guy

ever; I still get a buzz when

I see him liking my photos

on Instagram.

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF

IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?

It would be amazing to win

a big award, that’s what I’m

aiming for. I want to show

the younger generation that

coming from a small town –

I’m from Falkirk – doesn’t

hold you back.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM

HAIRDRESSING GIG?

I would love to be part of the

London and Paris Fashion

Week teams and to be one of

the top hairstylists at events

all around the world.

20

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BEFORE

AFTER

THE BUSINESS EDIT

HAS COVID ALTERED

YOUR BRAND VALUES?

MARY PORTAS, QUEEN of consumer

habits and high street hero, has predicted

that release from lockdown will trigger

changes in spending behaviour. Dubbed

‘The Kindness Economy’, it’s the idea of

people committing to brands they identify

with. Every pound spent is a message.

RCNQ in Manchester has always been

a place of acceptance, but the pandemic

has changed the mindset of owner Rob

Czlapka in surprising ways. “We built RCNQ

based on creating connections with people.

Operating under social distancing has given

me an opportunity to look at connecting

from a distance. Our social media strategy

has changed dramatically. We used to treat

it as a business, but recently we have shown

vulnerability, which has gained a hugely

positive response.”

KH Hair invested in mental health

training for managers last year – a move

managing director Darren Messias sees as

invaluable. “Undoubtedly, these issues will

be even more prevalent due to the anxiety

that lockdown has caused to some people,”

he explains. “We pride ourselves on being

caring and compassionate, so our empathy

and patience is going to be crucial in giving

our clients and staff the support they need.”

Jo Hardardt, manager of Elements

Salon in Oxted, Surrey, is also looking

at her team. “Our core values have not

changed, but within them there is scope for

change. Before lockdown we had started

a self-leadership programme, ‘The Hero

Advantage’, based on the premise that

with more autonomy a team member will

flourish, enjoy work more and be more

engaged. Social distancing rules have

increased autonomy, so why not go with it?”

JOE HEMMINGS

BLOGGS SALON, BRISTOL

I’m looking at ways of giving

my team more time off. It’s

an idea that I have flirted with

over the years but with my

team having spent more time

at home with loved ones and

finding new interests, they

will want to continue this and

have re-evaluated their work/

life balance. By allowing the

team to work longer hours but

fewer days, it will enable them

to spend more time to do those

things. The Covid-19 crisis

has made me re-evaluate what

the business is and I want the

overarching philosophy to be

how you feel about yourself.

H …

NEED A LITTLE KNOW-HOW TO

NAVIGATE AND GROW YOUR

BUSINESS? FREDDIE BANKS,

GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND

FOR KÉRASTASE AND SHU UEMURA

ART OF HAIR, IS HERE TO SHARE

SOME INSIDER KNOWLEDGE…

Before the crisis, customer experience was fast

becoming the number one driver for business.

Delighting customers on every step of the salon

journey was a way to ensure loyalty. But how

do you deliver great customer experience with

restrictions and social distancing guidelines?

First, what is deemed as a ‘good’ or ‘bad’

experience is usually judged on whether it

lived up to expectations or not. Therefore, it’s

important to make sure your clients are aware

the experience they have been used to will be

very different in the future. No magazines, perhaps

no refreshments, the use of PPE such as visors, the

list goes on. But this doesn’t mean it will be a ‘bad’

experience; you just need to manage expectations.

Over the past six weeks I feel that we have

seen a rapid acceleration of digital adoption that is

probably equivalent to what we would have done

in six years! Having a video call with my 98-yearold

grandmother was something I would never

have expected to do. So how are you optimising

DELIVER A GREAT EXPERIENCE

IN A POST COVID-19 WORLD

digitalisation within your customer experience to

ensure it’s as smooth as possible? Offering online

bookings, pre-payment and digital consultations

are all a great place to start. You could also think

about offering ‘click and collect’ services for your

retail business.

Finally, when it comes to customer experience,

remember that your clients are going through

their own experiences and many could be craving

human contact. So, balancing the need to get

back to business alongside being even more

sensitive to what your clients need from you is

important. And after all, human connection is what

you and your teams do best.

TOP TIPS FOR GREAT CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE

Manage the expectations of each client by

communicating what is changing and why.

Adopt digitalisation in the customer journey.

Focus on the human connection and be

sensitive to your client’s individual experiences.

WANT TO KNOW HOW YOU CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS WITH KéRASTASE? CALL 0800 085 4958 OR VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK

22

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“As a new business there is me, my

barber and my graduate stylist – we

all muck in as a junior at the moment!

I feel like my team would benefit from

someone with experience (more of a

senior role) and this would help with

training also. In the current climate

– we’ve been through a devastating

flood as well as lockdown – would you

entertain taking on someone new?”

BROOKE EVANS, BE IRONBRIDGE

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS

This is an interesting question, especially when we were

still considering the restrictions coming into play after

lockdown as we went to press. At any time you should only

take on new team members if you can justify them financially.

We would normally look at the volume of work that you’re

turning away to see if the business can provide enough work

for a new team member, but post-lockdown all salons will be

artificially busy.

I know that you get involved with session work away from the

salon and work with a major brand but, with the current size of

your team, you need to be their mentor and role model. There

is always a conflict between trying to build

a business and taking time out for other

ventures. Any work done outside your

salon must bring added PR benefits to

your salon and should be maximised as

such. Another experienced person would

come with a price tag and you need to be

sure that you can absorb this cost during

the initial period as they build a

column. Nowadays this can

take anywhere from 12 to

18 months, perhaps longer.

Depending on what you

would have to pay someone,

you would need them to

be generating about £1,500

net of VAT a week to be cost

efficient in your salon. Were

you all generating that in

your salon before lockdown?

If you’re going to involve

the new team member in training then you will need to

compensate them for the time they are off the floor, but this

will also reduce their income-producing ability. This is why the

owner does most of the training in small salons or outsources it.

After lockdown your key focus is generating income. After

the initial tsunami of clients, it’s possible that business could

slow down. Many customers will still be wary of visiting a salon,

many will have learned new skills and may feel they no longer

need us. We are going to need to inspire clients with new ideas

and techniques to remind them of what makes a visit to a salon

so valuable. Unless they perceive us as valuable, why would

they spend the money that you need to charge to be profitable?

Which brings me to my key post-lockdown focus for salon

owners. If you haven’t spent lockdown totally understanding

exactly how and where you generate profit, then you have

missed a golden opportunity. Most salons make profit by

accident and not by intentional planning. Most prices are set

based upon the competition and not by understanding the

true costs of delivering a service. Salons have lost a massive

chunk of their annual income and many of their costs have

still remained, albeit postponed temporarily. Many salons have

needed to incur debt to survive but will now need to service

that debt, albeit postponed temporarily. All salons will have the

extra cost of complying with the operating restrictions placed

upon them and the health and safety routines they will have to

implement, let alone the added burden of increased National

Minimum Wage. All of this may come at a heavy cost and, if a

salon was not generating excess profit before lockdown, then

where is the money going to come from to cover these costs?

This may not sound the answer to your question, Brooke,

but believe me it is. You need to consider all of it before you

take the leap.

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?

Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag

24

CREATIVE HEAD

SUCCESSFUL

BUSINESS

COACHING FOR

SALONS

Are you a

Salon Owner?

Do you want your salon to grow in

this competitive economy?

3·6·5 offer successful business coaching for salons

providing you with powerful results-focused salon

business education for your whole team. Meet likeminded

people and discover the right tools to tackle

key challenges in your business, steering you towards a

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Discover how

we can help you…

Call 0845 659 0015 or email hello@365hair.com

www.365saloneducation.com • Find us: @365SalonEducation

#BusinessEdit

TIPS FOR TIPPING

A survey by Ask Traders suggests the

hairdressing industry could miss out

on £81m in tips as clients return and go

cashless to reduce the risk of spreading

coronavirus. The survey also found that

63 per cent of consumers would avoid

tipping if they couldn’t use cash.

“Ask clients to add tips to their

contactless or card payment instead,”

advises NHBF director Tina Beaumont-

Goddard. “But bear in mind that this will

affect how tips have to be dealt with from a

tax and National Insurance point of view.”

If you do allow cash tips, Tina suggests

providing a slotted container for each

member of staff for clients to use. She says:

“It should be regularly sanitised and, to be

on the safe side, the money inside should

be washed too. Hands should always be

washed after handling the container or

the money in it.”

NHBF members can download a free

fact sheet about this at nhbf.co.uk/tipping

Law: leave can

be carried over

SOME EMPLOYMENT LAW has changed

during lockdown, reveals NHBF director Tina

Beaumont-Goddard. “For example, employees

can now carry over up to four weeks’ (20 days

for those who are full time) paid statutory annual

leave from their current leave year into the next

two annual leave years.” This is to ensure that

employees who could not take their statutory

annual leave due to the Covid-19 coronavirus

will not lose it.

Other new employment laws have also

come into force in 2020. Find out more at

nhbf.co.uk/new-employment-law

RISK ASSESSMENTS:

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO

TO BE READY for reopening you will need to carry out a detailed risk

assessment to ensure you’re taking every precaution you can to protect your

employees and clients when you’re back in business.

“As part of your risk assessment, consult with your employees,” says NHBF

chief executive Hilary Hall. “Make sure you act on any workable suggestions

that will help everyone to manage their workload as safely as possible and

reduce anxiety levels.”

Be aware that failing to complete a risk assessment, or completing one but

then failing to follow through on the safety measures required to manage the

risk of coronavirus, could result in a breach of health and safety law.

“Finally, when you write to your staff to tell them about plans for

reopening, include a copy of the completed risk assessment and list the

measures you are taking to help keep them safe,” adds Hilary.

NHBF members can download free Covid-19 coronavirus resources

including risk assessments

Gear up your clean machine

MAKE SURE YOU have shared with your staff a schedule for cleaning, disinfection and

sterilisation in the salon throughout the day and make sure they understand what is

required, says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “It’s also a good idea to put up posters

around your salon or barber shop reminding staff of key actions they must take before

and after each client’s appointment.”

This will include, for example, washing hands, using single-use tools or cleaning/

sterilising reusable ones such as face visors, cleaning any furniture, equipment, door

handles, payment machines and so on that the client may have touched, and changing

towels, gowns and any PPE used on the client. “It’s also important to ensure clients

understand what is required of them,” says Hilary. “Remind them verbally and via posters

that they should touch as little as possible.”

A free reopening guide can be downloaded at nhbf.co.uk/back-to-business-guide.

Non-members will need to register on the NHBF website to download it: nhbf.co.uk/join

26 CREATIVE HEAD

SOPHIA HILTON’S

(OF NOT ANOTHER SALON)

POST CORONA COLOUR COURSE ONLINE!

FIVE HOURS OF EDUCATION WITH SOPHIA HILTON

COST: £100

WATCH AS MANY TIMES AS YOU LIKE!


“There is so much talk on the

internet about life after reopening

right now, but the

one thing we weren’t talking

about was what’s going to be

the most challenging for our

colourists, and that’s the

colour itself.

“Five months of roots,

grown-out bleach and

DIY disasters...

This is the reality

of what we will

face, and there

are lots of

colourists out

there feeling

anxious about

having such

challenges in their

chair once they get

back. My favourite

thing as an educator is

to settle those feelings

of anxiety.

“It seems like a good idea

to change this frightening

time into an exciting time,

and start to think about

all the creative ways we

can change our clients over

to new looks, now we have

the space to do it in. And

remember this: so many of

our clients have been doing

their hair at home and it has

never been more important to

make sure that you are doing

something special that they

cannot replicate; our business

depends on that.”

SOPHIA HILTON

OVER 1,000 COPIES SOLD

ACROSS 15 COUNTRIES.

THE UK’S BIGGEST-

SELLING COURSE IN

LOCKDOWN!

INCLUDED IN THE COURSE:

Charging/price increases/PPE

Long re-growths/colour corrections theory

Safeguarding against complaints

Demo highlight to balayage conversion – two techniques

AVAILABLE AT BIT.LY/POST-CORONA-COLOUR

@NOTANOTHERSALON @NOTANOTHERACADEMY @HILTONSOPHIA

27

#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

in association with Phorest Salon Software

28

DUE TO SALON closures

because of the Covid-19

coronavirus crisis, this issue we

explore how we can learn from

our European counterparts

about life after lockdown. We

investigate the facts and figures

behind Germany’s reopening

and the tools that can help

reopened salons stay safe and

enjoy a boost to business.

30%

OF GERMAN SALONS

ARE OPEN ONE

EXTRA DAY A WEEK

POST-LOCKDOWN

THE MISSION: BOOSTING RETAIL REVENUE ONLINE

Salons

looking for

additional revenue

streams that don’t

require in-salon visits

are turning to the

new Online Store

feature with

Phorest

£3,016.92

average revenue

of top 10 Online

Stores in May

WILLKOMMEN!

IN THE WEEKS AFTER

REOPENING, GERMAN

SALONS SAW…

+12%

IN RETAIL REVENUE

+23%

IN SERVICES

REVENUE

+€9(£8)

AVERAGE

TICKET PRICE

£60.52

average

online sale

“In the fi rst 24 hours I had £530-worth of orders. That helped cover my full rent

for the next month. I was over the moon! We’re appointment-only and encourage

people not to be here unless we’re expecting them to be, so having the Online

Store stops a lot of clients walking into the salon to buy products. It also looks

more professional and will help us attract more clients in the future.”

SOPHIE GRAHAM, SOPHIE GRAHAM HAIR

DID YOU KNOW…

SALONS SHOULD PREPARE

TO MAKE MORE MONEY

POST-LOCKDOWN

FIRST UP, let’s say this: you made it through

lockdown, which makes you a hero. It has

been a long few months of waiting and

anticipating when salons might be able to

open their doors again but fi nally the end

is here! Reopening while the ‘new normal’

of the future is still being written is no easy

task. While waiting has been tough, one

benefi t has been looking to urope to see

how the fi rst month of reopening has been

for them. Thanks to an increasing client base

in Germany, Phorest was able to analyse the

stats of the fi rst few weeks of reopening and

discover that salons have been seeing more

clients, working more hours and making

more revenue than in their pre-lockdown life.

It showed the importance of boosting retail

revenue, opening extra hours and increasing

service prices to allow for charges.

Technology is also making safe, successful

and long-term reopening easier in a postlockdown

world. Phorest has launched a

suite of new features that make contact

tracing, pre-appointment digital consultations

and essential messaging possible for every

booking as well as a clientspecifi c I online

booking functionality to let salons control their

fi rst bookings in the smartest way possible.

The jewel in the crown is a new Online Store

function, an easy to set-up way of introducing

online retail that is already connected to

your stock levels and client lists. For more

information on the Phorest features that are

helping salons, visit phorest.com. And for

all salons, whatever software you use, go to

phorest.com/back-in-business to access free

tools, templates and calculators to help you as

you reopen safely and successfully.

Shauna O’Halloran is content &

marketing manager at Phorest

Salon Software. Find out more

at phorest.com and

@phorestsalonsoftware

ATI A

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COLOUR VISION

EDUCATION

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WELCOME TO THE FAMILY

FOR A LIMITED TIME, WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS OFFERING FREE ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EDUCATION CONTENT FROM THE #WELLAFAMILY

All salons can benefi t from three amaing online Wella seminars in

the olor raft series for free. This limited time offer covers olor

raft ssential olor raft ighlights and olor raft orrection.

ach online seminar is minutes long and gives students the

perfect start on their ourney to becoming truly confi dent in colour.

This is usually a blended learning eperience bringing online and

facetoface education into one seminar. Wella has shaken things

up so you can benefi t from learning the theory when and where

you want with the benefi t of specifi c bespoke handson sessions

with your amaing Wella ducator. or a limited time only Wella

has opened up the courses for all salons to begin working through

allowing them to earn a certifi cate from home and for free

The online training works in modules at the end of which there

are uestions. ach module is designed to feature the technical

background to the decisions that hairdressers need to make on a

daily basis. o what are you waiting for

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

HOW TO SATISFY CLIENTS WHILE KEEPING EVERYONE SAFE? ROBERT EATON, WELLA PROFESSIONALS TECHNICAL DIRECTOR UK & IRELAND,

KNOWS THAT EXPRESS COLOUR SERVICES NEED TO BE THE FUTURE OF SALON APPOINTMENTS

“Time will be crucial for us all as we get back to the new normal in salons. We are working

hard to look after our clients, and there will be huge demand for our services. One of the

areas we have been focusing on with our team is a possible change in the kind of services

and techniques we expect our clients to request. We’re anticipating a shift in trends towards

colour placement, conscious colouring and techniques that ensure the perfect colour blend.

A move towards a softer saturation of tone and glossing techniques seems on the cards.

Glossing techniques and express colour will be an important tool for us to use on our return

to salon life. It will enable us to create high-impact colour results with ease, and in timings that

work well for post-lockdown appointments. Glossing services can offer great shine and condition while blending

grey and white hairs, giving a more modern colour result and one that offers less maintenance to clients. One

important tool is the virtual consultation; it helps us with time management and planning appointments. Hair

aside, it will also help us establish if clients are conscious about how long they spend in the salon when there’s

still anxiety around social distancing. Express lightening techniques, using Blondor Mèche Cream and heat

application, also offer amazing results within salon-friendly appointment times.”

30 CREATIVE HEAD

#ColourVision

SHELFIE TIME

“I’m a massive fan of the Wella

Professionals Blondor range and

couldn’t be without it. Blondor Mèches

is a really exciting product, especially

if you’re a fan of freehand lightening like

I am. You can create blonde highlights with

up to 5 levels of lift in just 15 minutes with heat, as it

has a genius way of automatically slowing down the

lightening effect when the development time is complete.

It gives perfect control over highlighting – what more

could you want?”

CHARLOTTE HICKEY, HAIR BY CHARLOTTE


WHY I’M

WELLA

I’ve worked with Wella Professionals my whole career and I am proud of the

incredible relationship we have together. I work closely with my partners Clive Collins

and Paul Simbler, and Wella Professionals is our other partner. As much as they

are a part of our business, we are part of theirs, with regular meetings

and discussions to develop both companies. The opportunities we

have had together – through international shows and platform

education – have been amazing. We have worked together

with Wella Professionals to push boundaries with colour, with

education, with motivating hairdressers around the world and

with the products and tools we use. Wella Professionals is

conscious of the wellbeing and development of the industry, as

well as the consumer, and the hairdresser is at the forefront of

everything it does. Wella Professionals is truly a family that is

there whenever we need it, through good times and bad.”

AKIN KONIZI, INTERNATIONAL

CREATIVE DIRECTOR, HOB ACADEMY

CONTINUING EDUCATION IS THE ONLY WAY TO KEEP YOUR SKILLS FRESH. TAKE THE EXPRESS HIGHLIGHTS WITH BLONDOR MÈCHES CREAM MASTERCLASS

WITH ROBERT EATON TO FEEL CONFIDENT IN CREATING PERFECT HIGHLIGHTS IN NEXT TO NO TIME.

AVAILABLE ONLINE AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM NOW.

@wellahairuk #MakeChange #WellaColour Wella Professionals @WellaUK

CREATIVE HEAD

31

express

highlights

natural looking,

sunkissed hair

makechange

Hair by Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals Technical Director UK&I

BLONDOR

BLONDE MÈCHES

YOUR FAVOURITE SALON LIGHTENER

IN A NEW LIGHT, IN HALF THE TIME

Controlled and

reliable lightening

5

LEVELS

OF LIFT IN

15 MINS *

REQUIRES

HEAT

Up to 5 levels of lift in

15 minutes with the

addition of heat

Multi-tonal results

when used alongside

multiple colours

YOUR PERFECT PARTNER

FOR REOPENING

With the use of heat you are able to

half the development time of your

colour, maximising on column time

enabling you to fit in one more colour

client per working day.

FIND OUT MORE

Talk to your Account Manager/Education Team or visit education.wella.com to find out more.

uk.wellastore.com | @wellahairuk | #WellaColour

*When developed under heat.

FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS

001-002_BH_Cover_Salon Success_16pp_GW11.indd 2 18/02/2019 10:18

CLUB

cH

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Money

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• ONE YEAR OF CREATIVE HEAD MAGAZINE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

• DISCOUNTED TICKETS TO SELECTED CREATIVE HEAD EVENTS

• EXCLUSIVE COMPETITIONS AND PRIZES

• FREE PRODUCT SAMPLES

The fi rst 20 readers to sign up in July will receive a Fudge Professional Luminizer Shampoo and

Conditioner, Aqua Blow Dry Primer, Skyscraper and Matte Hed, worth £67.* One lucky Creative HEAD

Club member will win a goodie bag of Fudge Professional products, worth £158.50

*For the fi rst 20 new members to sign up between 1 July and 31 July 2020.

Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered.

**All prizes will be sent post-lockdown.

ALREADY A CLUB MEMBER?

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SCOOPED ONE OF THESE TWO INCREDIBLE PRIZES**

How about a gorgeous AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT

Glow gift set and a line-up of styling goodies to try, worth

more than £120? It’s full of vegan goodness…

Get your virtual learn on with Kao Salon Division. You’ll get to

enjoy a digital session worth £185 with KMS ambassador and

current It List It Guy, Jamie Benny! Ooh, as seen on screen!

Join the Creative HEAD Club now for FREE!

Visit creativeheadmag.com/club

THE AUTHENTIC ARTISANS

SALONS AND STYLISTS ACROSS THE COUNTRY HAVE EMBRACED THE NO-FILTER FORMULA OF TRUTH,

INDIVIDUALITY AND REALITY OF AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, AND AS A COMMUNITY HAS SEEN

THEIR BUSINESSES GROW. AS LOCKDOWN STRUCK, THAT COMMUNITY SPIRIT KICKED IN EVEN

FURTHER AND, AS WE REOPEN, THEY’LL BE THERE ONCE AGAIN TO HELP CLIENTS DEALING WITH

SO MUCH IN THEIR LIVES FIND A LITTLE PEACE, A MOMENT FOR THEMSELVES. LET’S FIND OUT HOW

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT IS A PARTNER THEY’RE PROUD OF

FROM THE SALON, WITH LOVE

When salons closed because of the Covid-19

pandemic, many loyal clients were keen to show

their support in a very real way, knowing these

valuable local businesses wouldn’t have any

income for some time. One method of support

was online shopping. At Mewies & Co in Leicester,

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT UK ambassador Dan

Mewies has been working hard to ensure every

delivery is a hand-picked parcel of perfection. “It’s

not just about selling products; it’s the concept of

creating a generation of people who embrace a

‘no-filter’ and ‘be authentic’ attitude,” he says.

TEAM PLAYERS

The newly renovated Tim Scott Wright @ The Hair

Surgery in Stourbridge also has a relatively new name

on the shelves. It’s a big decision to change the

products you work with every day, but it wasn’t a

decision taken by founder Tim alone. He says: “The

salon’s switch to AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT was

initiated by the team, who were keen to find products

that are forward-thinking, cruelty-free and vegan.”

Being included in the decision making meant that

the team was already committed to the brand,

excited about using the products and motivated to

tell their clients all about them, making retail sales easy.

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

As part of the brand’s commitment to supporting the

hairdressing community during lockdown, AUTHENTIC

BEAUTY CONCEPT unveiled a free-to-use education hub,

accessible from its UK website.

Packed full of tutorials and podcasts, stylists could get

to know the brand, learn more about how AUTHENTIC

BEAUTY CONCEPT products work and be inspired with

demonstrations from some of the world’s top hairdessers

including Adam Garland, Hester Wernert-Rijn and Jean-

Philippe Beaupied.

What’s more, there’s a comprehensive glossary of

hair product vocabulary, providing a valuable tool

for professionals keen to brush up on their product

knowledge and information about the powerful

ingredients found in AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT

ranges, such as basil, mango, green tea, date

and cinnamon extract. Every Wednesday an ‘ingredient

of the week’ was shared on its Instagram Stories

@authenticbeautyconceptuk too. Do you have

a favourite?

VEGAN = GREAT FOR HAIR

The benefits to hair are actually pretty clear. Vegan

haircare doesn’t contain any additives such as parabens,

sulphates or silicones, which means hair’s natural oils are

preserved and colour is prolonged – something clients

certainly notice in between appointments.

Because they’re packed with natural ingredients,

vegan products are generally more hydrating and

work to promote all-round healthier hair. At Mewies &

Co, they’ve found that this moisture-rich quality can

be particularly beneficial for clients experiencing hair

loss. Founder Dan Mewies says: “Our clients appreciate

the efforts we make as a salon to be ethical and

environmentally friendly. The use of vegan products helps

us to commit to a more ‘conscious’ culture in our salon.”

We’ve all become more conscious of what we use

and consume, which has a direct impact on what you

decide to stock in the salon. Joseph Ferraro, owner of

Joseph Ferraro Hair in Harrogate, says: “Knowing that

our products are vegan and cruelty-free is peace of

mind for us and our environmentally-conscious clientele.”

SE-REN-I-TY {NOUN}

THE STATE OR QUALITY OF BEING SERENE, CALM OR TRANQUIL; SERENENESS

Illness, work stress, isolation from loved ones – there has been plenty in recent months to cause your clients

anxiety and worry. How wonderful would it be if you could take all that away, just for a few precious moments…

That’s where an AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Memento service can make a real difference. It allows the

hairdresser to customise treatments and services to best suit their clients’ mood, schedule and hair needs.

It’s a sensorial treat, with stylists mixing a carefully selected Essence with a chosen Mask from the range to

create a bespoke care treatment. For an extended Memento service, a combination of massage gestures are

incorporated to aid inner peace, reviving beauty from within. For a final moment of calm, special earplugs and a

blindfold block out the outside world so clients can take a moment to pause and reconnect with themselves.

EVERYDAY

EFFORTLESS

MANY HAVE EMBRACED A LOW MAINTENANCE VIBE WHEN IT COMES TO LOCKDOWN BEAUTY,

SOMETHING THAT CHIMES PERFECTLY WITH AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT’S MISSION. AMBASSADORS

DAN MEWIES, OWNER OF MEWIES & CO; AND JOSEPH FERRARO, OWNER OF JOSEPH FERRARO HAIR;

ARE READY WITH TWO LOOKS THAT DEMONSTRATE CAREFREE CHIC – JUST WHAT CLIENTS NEED


A TOUSLED FINISH

FROM DAN MEWIES

SOFT AND UNDONE

FROM JOSEPH FERRARO

1. Start with AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Amplify

Mousse on damp hair. Tilt the hair forward and rough

dry until all the moisture is removed. This will offer

volume to soften the roots and enhance the lift.

2. If you feel the hair needs it, gently run a

straightener through, though I recommend leaving

the hair to form a more natural wave.

3. Use a hair bobble to gently pull the hair into a low

ponytail but don’t apply this too close to the root and

nape. Leave it loose so the hair hangs a little more.

4. Pull a small piece of hair away from the rest of the

tail and wrap around the bobble, securing it with a

small grip underneath. You could even use a small

piece of ribbon to wrap around.

5. Finally, apply AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT

Working Hairspray and then tease pieces with your

fi ngers to add height at the root, or add texture for

a more organic fi nish.

1. Apply AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Amplify Mousse

and gently blow-dry the hair with a round brush.

2. For texture and hold, spritz AUTHENTIC BEAUTY

CONCEPT Nymph Salt Spray on each section before

tonging it to create a wave, not a curl. When

wrapping the hair around the tong make sure you

twist the hair and then run the tong up and down the

hair shaft for a loose, beach wave effect.

3. Once it’s all tonged, loosely pick up the top half

of the hair to create a messy knot that has a very

undone feel. Try not to overdo it, and don’t play

around too much. Let it take shape organically.

4. When you’re happy with the knot, pinch the top

section of the hair and drag it forward to create a

soft texture.

5. To fi nish, apply a touch more AUTHENTIC BEAUTY

CONCEPT Nymph Salt Spray while using your hands to

scrunch it into the hair.

As a brand founded on collaboration, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT firmly believes in co-creation.

Discover more about the #authenticbeautymovement at authenticbeautyconcept.com

@authenticbeautyconcept

#MyBelief

# MYBELIEF

BEAUTY

STARTS

FROM

WITHIN.

Authentic beauty begins the very

moment you decide to be yourself.

When you’re present in the now that’s

when you rebalance your mind and soul.

Look within and bring out your inner

beauty to truly express yourself.

#AuthenticBeautyMovement.

ALIANA KING

Model & Artist

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE HEAD STORE COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

THE STORIES AND REALITY

Natalie Knox

Rianna Henry

Errol Douglas MBE

THE PUSH FOR CHANGE

Sofia Elhaj

Jemima Bradley

Lisa Farrall

The Black Lives Matter movement has forced the hair industry to confront its lack of representation

and diversity. Catch up with discussions of the issues and the path to change on Instagram TV

Training issues and incoming

immigration legislation is impacting

recruitment – how is this going to

affect you? Take our survey online now

It’s time. Exclusively unveiled on

8 July, meet the super-talented

#MWIT20 finalists battling it out for the

20 category crowns come 29 November

Reflect. Reset. Rebuild. When Salon

Smart returns on 27 September, the

focus will be on how we can move

forward together. Book your spot online

creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag

MW

IT20

2020

2020

CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST

AWARDS 2020 ARE CLOSED FOR ENTRIES.

BIG LOVE AND BEST OF LUCK TO OUR ENTRANTS!

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ANNOUNCED

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

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THINGS

IN 40 YEARS, ALFAPARF MILANO HAS EVOLVED FROM HUMBLE ITALIAN BEGINNINGS TO

MASSIVE WORLDWIDE DEMAND – A SUCCESS STORY BORN OUT OF A DESIRE TO CREATE

BEAUTIFUL HAIR STORIES FROM BOTTLES OF SHAMPOO AND TUBES OF COLOUR.

THIS IS A BRAND THAT EMBRACES CHANGE – AND IN 2020 IT’S STILL MOVING FORWARD

1980

ALFAPARF Milano is born in Italy. Then

something amazing happened: demand for

the products steadily grew, reaching South

America, Asia, Australia and, eventually, all

over the world.

CREATING

COLOUR

very second across five continents

a woman leaves a hair salon wearing

ALFAPARF Milano hair colour. It’s a colour

that is superior; that exceeds expectations.

A colour that’s formulated with the latest

technology and the typically Italian approach

to doing everything to perfection.

PROVIDING

CARE

Their colour may turn heads, but ALFAPARF

Milano is an expert at treating hair as well.

From thirsty to unruly to frizzy – no matter

what the issue, it can solve it. Indulgent

textures and incredible fragrances make

ALFAPARF Milano care treatments the most

luxurious experience.

44

CHANGE!


DESIGNING

SHAPE

The high-performing Keratin Therapy

Lisse Design shaping service respects

the quality of hair.

BUILDING

STYLE

elivering what holds fies and messes up

– so that people can be true to themselves.

Because whether it’s simplistic, chic or

boldly unconventional styling helps epress

personality and originality every day.

2020

ALFAPARF Milano is now the #1 Italian brand in the

professional cosmetics channel worldwide – and

still a familyowned company A new ondon office

opened this year, offers even more opportunities

to grow and to support the UK industry with

advice, business-building projects and endless

education. A Presto!

START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ALFAPARF MILANO. TO DISCOVER MORE, VISIT ALFAPARFMILANO.COM,

EMAIL CUSTOMERSERVICEUK@ALFAPARF.COM OR CALL 020 7849 3251

CREATIVE HEAD

45

WE

HAVE

LIFT

OFF!

After waiting more than three months,

salons in England and Northern

Ireland have opened their doors to

a clamouring public, with Wales

and Scotland welcoming clients

back imminently. Everyone knows

salon life won’t be the same;

staff will be under enormous

pressure in the hot summer,

wearing visors while working

to see as many clients as

possible across longer days...

all while regularly cleaning

and keeping a safe distance. It’s a

challenge, but we’re with you – ready to give you

the fuel you need for a stratospheric relaunch

46

CREATIVE HEAD

TO PROTECT

AND SERVE

GATSBY & MILLER HAS BEEN REDESIGNED TO BE COVID-19

SAFE. FOUNDER JOHN ROADS TALKS US THROUGH THE

CHANGES HE HAS MADE TO THE SALON EXPERIENCE

L’Oréal Professionnel salon partner Gatsby & Miller in Amersham

shared its new-look space with The Daily Telegraph, illustrating

how lots of UK salons were preparing for life post-lockdown,

even if at the time no government guidelines had been shared.

With protective screens at reception and the backwash, and

stylists wearing PPE, this was a detailed look at the client

journey through the salon. Founder John Roads has a

background in risk assessment and health and safety, so

perhaps was a step ahead in pre-planning while waiting for

government guidelines to be issued. But he also worked with

L’Oréal Professional Product Division’s Back-to-Business support

guide as well as keeping a close eye on salons reopening across

Europe. It’s not been easy – the price of gloves has risen and

protective screen prices tripled between enuiry and fitting

such is demand. He stresses that these are all precautionary

measures taken following a diligent risk assessment. From

a health questionnaire and hand sanitiser at the entrance to

consultations via the mirror and a client PPE pack, there are

control measures in place to minimise risk throughout. So what

about clients feeling like their appointment is a treat, a luxurious

experience? “It’s the biggest single challenge for the industry,”

he admits. “It’s about rebuilding trust and a sense of balance

between an experience and a safe environment.”

CREATIVE HEAD 47

IN YOUR

DEFENCE

BOTH CLIENTS AND STAFF ARE CONCERNED ABOUT SAFETY, SO YOU NEED TO

REASSURE THEM THAT YOU’RE ON TOP OF HYGIENE. HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

o Face visors

Face visors are required PPE for all staff

under the government guidelines. A visor

should extend to below the chin, cover the

ears and leave no exposed gap between

the forehead and the headpiece. They are

reusable and easy to clean, and help keep

people from touching their own faces.

Denman offers the HeroShield, a faceguard

originally developed for use in the NHS.

o D isinfectant

Staff will need plenty of disinfectant to clean everything from chairs to tools. Remember

that cleaning with a detergent-based liquid should precede disinfecting. As with

handwashing, the detergent molecules break down the shell of the virus, and the

disinfectant then kills anything that remains. You need to disinfect each piece of your

kit after use with each client, and store them in an airtight container. When with a client,

have a designated tray or space that you place used tools into so that you know what to

clean, before storing away. Concentrated liquids, hand sanitiser, handy spray bottles and

tool jars – Disicide from Hair Tools offers all manner of disinfectant solutions.

hairtools.co.uk

48

CREATIVE HEAD

o Perspex screens

‘Mitigating actions’ in goverment guidelines

to reduce risk include screens and barriers,

which are suggested between clients

where practical. It’s another large surface

that will need cleaning regularly, however.

o Liquid soap

For both staff and clients to use, and plenty

of it as regular handwashing remains one

of the most effective precautions. Look

into touch-free soap dispensers for the

bathroom to reduce exposed touch-points.

o Cling film

Once disinfected, you can wrap tools with

cling fi lm if you dont have airtight storage

for them. It’s another clear sign to clients

that you’re taking their hygiene and safety

seriously, so stock up and get into the habit.

o Hand sanitiser

Set up multiple hand sanitiser stations

around the salon, including at the front

door. isibly applying sanitiser at the

station before beginning any service

goes a long way to instilling trust.

o D isposables

Think gloves, aprons, capes and towels,

most of which are available from your

wholesaler. Consider disposable capes and

neck guards and remember a fresh set of

disposables should be used for each client.

o Bin liners

With so many single-use items, you’ll be

going through bin liners at an exceptional

rate. You should dispose of each bin liner

by carefully sealing them, wiping the bin

down and then putting in a new liner.

o Masks

Required now on public transport, face

masks and coverings are not required for

stylists or clients but many might still opt to

wear them. Masks are ineffective when wet,

so you’ll want spares at the backwash for

those using them. A fi velayer fi lter system

is built into these reathe and rotect

protective facemasks, available in child and

adult sizes, and you can even brand them

with your salon logo.

breatheandprotect.com

GARY HOOKER AND MICHAEL YOUNG

HOOKER & YOUNG

We are missing a chair in between each station, which gives

us more than two metres between each seated client. We have

given each stylist their own zone of two seats which they work

at exclusively. The idea is to try to minimise how long each

client will be in the salon. We’re trying to keep it down to

90 minutes. We’ve decided to stop all blow-drying to give us

more time to clean between client visits. The additional time,

about 20 minutes, is used to fully sanitise each work station in

preparation. It ensures that we are working within guidelines

and giving each client the assurance that we are doing

everything possible to create the safest environment for them

and for our salon team.

ELENA TAYLEUR LINNAEAN

We are a Goldwell and Oribe ambassador salon and we’ve

used the Kao Salon Recovery Guide to help get us back

to work. In acknowledgment of our menu price range and

appropriate client market we are hosting only four working

hairdressers at any one time. The extra allowance is being

communicated to all clients on booking our services in order

to increase their confi dence. ur team wears including

full-face screens and disposable aprons, while clients wear

disposable gowns and disposable towels, and masks at their

discretion. At the front desk there is a full protective screen. We

no longer accept cash and have four machines that are

sterilised after every use. We are still working from our original

service menu but adding a eible cover charge for materials.

Don’t forget L’Oréal Professionnel’s free 30-minute Hygiene & Safety e-learning module,

available to all hairdressers For each completed course and certificate issued, it’s donating

1 to beauty charities, up to a total of 10,000. emember to clearly display your certificate in

the salon so clients know you’ve done it! Visit uk.lorealaccess.com for more information

ATI A 49

Melissa Timperley

ut

ad Apple air

Slidercuts

SOMETHING TO

SHOUT ABOUT

YOU’VE SPENT TIME, EFFORT AND HARD CASH GETTING THE SALON AS SAFE AND CLEAN

AS POSSIBLE – BUT YOU NEED CLIENTS TO DO THEIR BIT, TOO. HOW DO YOU GET THEM ONSIDE?

Having planned for the day that you’d be back in the salon you’re

aware it’s a different place to the one you knew before. You’ll

have been through training days to make sure the team is up

to speed, but clients have a role to play here – they need to be

active participants in the new protocols, and it’s best to share all

the details so that they come to the salon fully prepped. Melissa

Timperley, founder of the eponymous salon in Manchester, has

implemented temperature checks into her ‘house rules’, which

also include no waiting in reception. “Unfortunately, our costs

have gone up signifi cantly since introducing stringent hygiene

measures,” says Melissa. “So, we’re telling everyone up front

that to survive as a business we need to temporarily increase our

prices to cover these costs.”

Action plan

EGO HAIR DESIGN IN SCOTLAND REOPENS IN MID JULY.

OWNER CAROLINE SANDERSON SHARES HER GOALS

o Have our hygiene action plan on our website, pin it to the

top of social media and when clients book send an SMS

with a link to the information

o Share the Barbicide hygiene course staff have completed

o Place instructions around the salon so clients know what

they can and cant do with guides on the oor

o lients who need patch tests will be invited in for the

patch test appointment a day or two prior to opening

o Use a private room for our more vulnerable clients

ELENA LAVAGNI NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY

We are following strict guidelines in order to protect the safety

of clients and employees. Each client has their temperature

taken using an infrared thermometer if its above .

they’re sent home immediately. Before any services, all clients

entering the salon are asked questions about symptoms, too.

To practice social distancing we accept clients by appointment

only, through telephone or online scheduling. We recommend

clients wait outside the salon until the stylist is ready. There is

no kitchen service, so clients are asked to bring their own food

and beverages. To limit the risk of infection there is no cloakroom

service either. We have shared our client protocols on our

website and social media to prepare guests and our automatic

SMS appointment reminders contain a link to them too.

50

ATI A

BACK TO

BUSINESS WITH

THE NHBF

Information.

Inspiration.

Join us today!

www.nhbf.co.uk

AS YOU OPEN YOUR DOORS TO

YOUR CLIENTS YOU’LL BE FEELING

A SPECTRUM OF EMOTIONS

– EXCITEMENT, TREPIDATION,

CONFUSION, ANXIETY AND

EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN. LET

KAO SALON DIVISION SUPPORT YOU

DURING THESE UNPRECEDENTED

TIMES AND ENABLE YOU TO THRIVE

WELCOME

BACK

HOME OF SALON favourites Goldwell, KMS and Oribe,

Kao Salon Division is on the side of salons around the globe,

helping them to navigate every stage of this crisis. It has launched

a Salon Recovery Guide designed to help salon owners, their

teams and their clients as they reopen and work through the

stages of recovery. And it has mapped out a fi vepoint plan to

get you on that road immediately!

“From the moment the salon doors closed our priority has been

to walk hand in hand with our salon partners and stylists. Bringing

the salon community together, listening to them and learning

with them to develop plans to get the industry back to recovery

as quickly as possible,” says Julie Winchester, general manager

of Kao Salon Division, UK, Ireland and South Africa. “We believe

in the power of the collective and know that together we will be

resilient and come out of this stronger than ever.”

52 CREATIVE HEAD

REDESIGN YOUR SALON ENVIRONMENT

Government regulations linked to social

distancing mean you will need to look again at

the environment within your salon to ensure that

you’re operating in a safe space. From distance

between chairs to going cashless, you need to

ensure your clients feel safe and comfortable and

will be able to relax and enjoy their service. It will

also help give your stylists confi dence in how they

need to operate. rofi t is the biggest focus for

salon owners, so with the increase of costs due

to hygiene measures, protective equipment and

disposable items, it’s vital that you’re staying on

top of these extras and not losing money. Now

is the perfect time to press the reset button and

make changes – don’t be afraid to increase your

prices. The client experience is so important to

ensure rebookings are made, retail is purchased

and the whole feelgood factor is created during

the appointment time. Yes, everyone might be

behind PPE and things look a little different, but

you can ensure that behind any mask is still a

smile that you’ve created through your service!


LOOK AFTER YOUR TEAM

Its essential that the team is confi dent in how

they need to operate and prioritise the care of

themselves and their clients. The better your

team is trained, the fewer questions will arise

when you need all the time you have for your

clients. This will create a positive mentality

within the salon and will ensure stylists feel

safe and that will ow through to their clients.

And don’t forget allergy alert testing – it’s

another way to illustrate how you’re protecting

everyone’s safety, just in case a client has

used products since their last visit that could

potentially cause a reaction.

FILLING YOUR COLUMNS

ou need to be driving the most profi table

services while ensuring columns are running at

maximum capacity with the new ways of working.

Being on top of your appointments and prioritising

them will be invaluable making you as profi table

as possible across this recovery period. Evaluate

your colour services versus your cut and style to

fi nd a way that fi ts your stylists rotas and brings

the greatest value to you. And we’re all used

to video calls now, so why not include virtual

consultations? This will help you save time and

reach out to clients before they visit the salon,

enabling you to anticipate their needs.

MAXIMISING PROFITABILITY

With high demand but lower capacity, you

need to consider the quick wins you can make,

with new service and package concepts and

upgrading services. The Goldwell portfolio

gives you the tools to offer uick fi veminute

colour services and free up valuable time. From

olorance press Toning to refi ne and the

Soft Colour Service using foam, New Blonde

services to soften harsh contrasts (including

regrowth) and a men’s Reshade service, you

can do a lot in fi ve minutes And its not ust

colour – recommend treatments including

BondPro+ and Dualsenses Serums, which will

help improve hair condition instantly.

SUPPORTING YOUR CLIENTS

Be positive when communicating

with clients; it will help them feel

safe. And now is also the time to

go that extra mile. You can target

lost clients and use your salon

windows to attract new ones and

make people aware that you’re

back! A good experience will also

inspire world of mouth, too. Take

the time to connect with them and

deliver a great experience. Another

good way to increase your cash

ow is retail so why not include

products as part of the service?

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT KAO SALON DIVISION, AND REQUEST A COPY OF ITS SALON RECOVERY GUIDE?

CALL 03301 239 530 OR EMAIL KAOSALONDIVISIONUK@KAO.COM #STRONGERTOGETHER

CREATIVE HEAD

53

QUICK

QUICK

GLOW

WITH REDUCED CAPACITY FROM SOCIAL DISTANCING BUT INCREASED DEMAND, YOU

NEED EXPRESS SERVICES THAT OPTIMISE YOUR TIME TO ENSURE YOU DELIGHT AS MANY

CLIENTS AS POSSIBLE. WHAT’S OUT THERE TO QUICKLY REBUILD YOUR BUSINESS?

Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Color 10

develops in just 10 minutes – perfect for postlockdown

express services.

schwarzkopfpro.com

Blondes are begging to be

brighter, to be rid of brass

and to banish any roots –

londor ches from Wella

Professionals are your BFF.

uk.wellastore.com

We know you’re facing a tonne of colour

corrections, so ensure you have plenty of

Zalon Colour Remover from Hair Tools ready

to strip away any box dye remainders.

hairtools.co.uk

Personalised

to each client,

Fusio-Dose

from rastase

immediately

transforms hair at

the backwash for

lasting results.

kerastase.co.uk

Whatever colour correction you’re faced with,

you can be confi dent with airel from ral

Professionnel’s 100+ shade portfolio. And

don’t forget Smartbond for an instant boost.

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Offer a

beautiful (and

speedy) boost

to colour and

shine with

a glossing of

Elumen from

Goldwell, for

a fast and

fabulous tone.

goldwell.com

54

CREATIVE HEAD

When you need a swift lift, try Fudge

Professional Clean Blonde Speed+, a

pioneering violet luxe lightener that is

the brand’s most conditioning bleach

yet. It’s tingle- and fume-free too!

fudgeprofessional.com

An in-salon essence mixed with an

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT mask

will bring clients’ hair back to life while

delivering a sensorial experience.

authenticbeautyconcept.co.uk

With 46 shades, Color Wear from

ALFAPARF Milano is perfect for toning

and glossing, giving you a long-lasting

result to keep clients’ hair shiny with

reduced colour fade.

alfaparfmilano.com

JOICO is helping salons prepare

clients with a new consultation guide,

which can be used for both virtual and

in-salon consultations. “It makes it easier

to get all the information out of clients

without having to have those ‘awkward

moments’,” admits Paul Watts, founder

of Paul Watts Hair.

You’ve got some dark roots to deal

with and time’s ticking. You need

TIGI Copyright Colour’s True Light

White for brilliant lightening power

while respecting the hair’s health.

tigi.com

Use The Demi from Paul Mitchell

rofessional air are for a fi ve

minute service or process up to 20

minutes on dry or towel-dried hair.

salon-success.co.uk

Part of the revamped

ASP INFINITI

permanent colour

range, b:Red delivers

intense vibrant

results on natural

and coloured hair

with no need to prelighten.

So that’s time

saved right there!

asphair.com

GINA CONWAY

GINA CONWAY AVEDA

LIFESTYLE SALONS & SPAS

“In June we launched Customized Colour

Care Kits, take-away kits sold from the salon

for clients to use at home, and we’re doing

salon consultations just for tints. We are a

huge colour salon so our waiting list was

mainly colour, but if we could manage some

of the regrowth with the kits, then we could

focus on blondes fi rst. I feared there would

be a large amount of colour correction, so

by offering our own colour and instructions

we’ve nipped that in the bud. Otherwise

some people will have just chosen a product

from the supermarket with no real clue if it

was suitable or how to apply it. We’ve also

launched a new service called Shadow Root,

which is a simple application that can stretch

the natural roots over the regrowth and

then blend into the blonde so that it looks

more like a balayage. This will ease the rush

for tints. Our new menus include Tint and

Depart, meaning that local guests can go

home after tinting to shampoo their own hair.

Many salons are doing this with great success

in Australia. We include a goodie bag with

two towels, gloves, travel-sized Aveda Color

Conserve shampoo and conditioner and an

Aveda tea bag. We’ve launched an express

colour menu for reduced colour services

such as Aveda Demi+, which processes in

fewer than 30 minutes for those clients who

don’t need 100 per cent grey coverage.

We’re encouraging all our clients

to pre-pay so that we can be

cashless and we’ve launched

a new app where they can

pay from their own phones.

We’ve also moved from

one checkout to mobile

checkouts for ease and

to reduce congestion in

the retail area.”

2019

CREATIVE HEAD

Treatwell

VIRTUAL REALITY

TECHNOLOGY HAS BEEN LIKE ROCKET FUEL, POWERING SALONS TO STAY IN TOUCH AND

TO PLAN FOR THE FUTURE. HERE’S HOW THOSE SYSTEMS ARE HELPING POST-LOCKDOWN

From Zoom staff meetings to FaceTime client consultations,

technology has powered hairdressing businesses during

lockdown. And the industry will use digital tools more than ever,

now that it’s been illustrated just how valuable they are.

Salon software brands can also share what the new normal

looks like when it comes to booking hair specifi cally thanks to

data from European countries that have reopened ahead of the

UK. Treatwell shared details of a landscape where more is moving

online. Across Europe, there is an increase in online bookings from

customers who used to book via phone or walk-in.

Treatwell is now seeing fewer peak-hour bookings, with morning

demand especially am increasing signifi cantly. And because

customers are eager to get services, they’re happy to pay more,

so there has been a decrease in usage of discounts. And as

you’ve been closed for months with little (if any) income, Phorest

Salon Software has developed a revenue calculator to help you

work out just what you need to regain revenue. It’s one of a wealth

of new back-to-work tools from the company, as well as Covid-19

banners for online booking, GDPR-compliant contract tracing and

social distancingfriendly checkin notifi cations.

A cut for Europe

TREATWELL RECEIVED A RECORD NUMBER OF BOOKINGS AS

HAIR SALONS AND BARBERS REOPENED ACROSS EUROPE

Germany – When news broke in April about reopening on 4 May,

bookings increased by more than 2,000 per cent. A men’s cut

was the fi rst booking made fi ve minutes after the announcement.

The Netherlands – bookings were up more than 4,500 per

cent the day after reopenings were announced.

France – Treatwell saw a more than 3,100 per cent boost in

bookings after the decision hair businesses could reopen from

ay. The fi rst customer had a am haircut and beard trim in

a salon that had etended its opening hours to am to pm.

ROB CZLAPKA RCNQ

We signed up with Timely at the start of the year as we needed

a booking system that was online based, could integrate with

other apps like Mailchimp and had a simple interface for clients

to use that didn’t look dated. When the Covid-19 crisis started

it could have been overwhelming having to ensure you were

able to ‘pause’ after having the entire business on fast forward.

But Timely set up a little pop-up checklist that was genius!

I followed it and within 30 minutes everything was sorted.

With the Timely Consult app there’s a Covid-19 form to help us

stay safe, and the brand has a new partnership with Laybuy,

meaning that clients can visit the salon and pay for their service

over six weeks. The salon receives the full appointment value at

the point of sale and Laybuy deals with the rest. It was ideal for

us as we know that peoples fi nances are up in the air. Theres

also a waiting list feature that we posted on Instagram – we

had signups in hours on top of the clients we already

had rebooked. It was such a relief when you’ve been uncertain

of what the future holds.

56

CREATIVE HEAD

BACK TO BUSINESS

SALONS HAVE RE-OPENED. WHAT LIES AHEAD? LISTEN IN TO WHAT FUDGE PROFESSIONAL

GLOBAL AMBASSADORS JONATHAN ANDREW AND TRACY HAYES HAVE TO SAY…


Jonathan Andrew

and daughter Lily

“I’ve been teaching myself

photography so I can push

my creative boundaries

when I’m back at work.

These are some of my

favourite shots I’ve taken”

Hey, Tracy! Long time, no see!

It was called lockdown, Jonathan! So how was it for you?

Bitter-sweet. It was difficult dealing with all the anxiety

and negativity, but I loved the time at home with

my family and I taught myself new skills to push my

creativity – photography and video-making, mainly.

Awesome!

And wasn’t it great to see hairdressing making all those

headlines – to feel like our profession was finally being valued?

It was clear people really missed their trip to the

salon – it’s all everyone talked about. And it wasn’t just

about how we can make clients look, it was about how

we make them feel. Waking up to those roots every

morning – not an uplifting start to the day.

When we’re past fixing crazy haircuts and botched box

dye jobs, it’s going to be so exciting having the opportunity

to do something new with clients’ hair. Whether that’s

allowing them to experiment more with their new length,

or helping them grow out that bad clipper job and planning

out nine new looks between now and Christmas!

Tracy Hayes

“I created these looks

for a tutorial during

lockdown. Both were

created using exactly the

same technique – but

what a difference the two

colour palettes make!”

Agreed. It’s such a great opportunity to talk about

changing colour, too. Everyone’s been living by

the rules for so long, this is a time to cut loose and

have some fun! Let’s put some blonde through

those dark roots, let’s add a section of hot pink

that’s only visible when the client ties her hair up…

I think the timescales of how we work will be different

too. Before, it was all about speed, now we’ll be able

to give 100 per cent to each client… I’m really looking

forward to the creative journey ahead.

Definitely! I loved those rainbow pictures kids painted in

support of the NHS. What brilliant inspiration to put new

colour into your hair! This will be perfect for younger clients

whose previous fun colours will be all washed out by now…

There’s no need to feel daunted. Our clients come to us for a

reason – and it’s something that simply cannot be replicated by

switching to another salon. I’ve known lots of my clients for 10

years or more. The bond I have with them is even stronger now

that lockdown has taught us to appreciate each other more.

We need to keep those appointments special – a treat for

our clients, and for us too. I just can’t wait to get working

again and to get back to chatting. I want banter! I want trivia!

I can’t wait to talk about nice things again!

AS A BACK-TO-SALON BONUS,

HEAD TO OUR INSTAGRAM

(@CREATIVEHEADMAG) NOW

FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A FUDGE

PROFESSIONAL

SALON

STARTER

KIT, WORTH

£200

CREATIVE HEAD

Fudge the Rules with Fudge Professional. Call 0161 968 4040 or visit fudgeprofessional.com

@FUDGEHAIR #FUDGETHERULES #PlanetF

57

RECRUITMENT

Let’s

push

for

change

VISITING THE HAIRDRESSER WAS ONE OF THE TOP THREE THINGS THE PUBLIC

WANTED TO DO ONCE LOCKDOWN WAS LIFTED. WILL THAT TRANSLATE INTO MORE

PEOPLE WANTING TO JOIN THE PROFESSION IN FUTURE?

58

The nation’s 41,000 salons were closed,

but all the talk during lockdown was about

hairdressing. After more than three months

of no cutting, no colouring and no blowdrying,

everyone realised that while they

could (just about) handle having grey roots,

going without a trip to the hairdresser was

generally bad for morale. Having been

overlooked and undervalued for decades,

all of a sudden hairdressing was making

headlines for all the right reasons.

But what happens now? Will all that

yearning for “the chatter of the salon”

(Rhys Thomas, The Guardian), “the warm

glow on your neck after a cut” (Adam

Parsons, Sky News), and “how a regular

visit makes us feel” (Shane Watson, The

Daily Telegraph), translate into renewed

enthusiasm for a career in hairdressing?

As Allison Hargreaves, education

operations, events and marketing manager

at Coty Professional, puts it: “Hopefully,

there will be many parents wishing they

had a hairdresser in the family who will

now encourage their children to look into

it as a viable career.”

Certainly, hairdressing needs that boost:

since 2015 there’s been a steady decline in

the total number of people working in hair

(down to 250,000, according to 2019 NHBF

statistics), and more worryingly a sharp fall

in the number of apprenticeship starts in

England – from 11,500 in 2017/2018 to just

9,932 in 2018/2019.

So what’s been behind the lack of interest

in hairdressing as a career? Misconceptions

about the profession abound – 51 per cent

of people think hairdressing is low skilled,

and 32 per cent that it offers little in the

way of career progression, according to a

poll earlier this year by L’Oréal Professional

Products Division (LPPD). And of course,

there’s that infamous blind spot school

careers advisers seem to have for the hair

industry – in the LPPD poll 75 per cent of

respondents said they didn’t learn about

hairdressing as a career option in school.

And let’s hold that thought about low

skills for a moment… On 1 January 2021

the Government’s Immigration Bill is set to

replace free movement between the UK and

with European Economic Area states with

a new points-based system for workers

coming to the UK. Hairdressers have been

deemed lower skilled by the Home ce,

meaning the Bill will almost certainly spell

an end to the flow of foreign hairdressers

into the UK market that some London

WHY THE NEW IMMIGRATION BILL

AFFECTS UK HAIRDRESSING

The Immigration and Social Security Co-ordination (EU Withdrawal) Bill 2020

puts an end to free movement of EU citizens to the UK, with a new pointsbased

immigration system to be introduced in January 2021.

ome ecretary riti atel has called it a “fi rmer fairer and simpler system

adding: “This historic piece of legislation gives the UK full control of our

immigration system for the fi rst time in decades and the power to determine

who comes to this country.

Potential incomers need to have at least 70 points before they can enter

the country to work with a confi rmed ob offer and the ability to speak nglish

a requirement. Points are also awarded for things such as earning at least

working a “skilled ob working in a profession that the has a

shortage of, and having a relevant PhD.

There isnt actually a defi nition of what the government classes as a “lower

skilled worker. owever since the points system is based on salary lowerpaid

obs fall into the low skill category. This puts hairdressing at risk with average

salaries falling below the £25,600 threshold. The new system will apply to

anyone coming from any country in the world from January 2021. Previously,

EU citizens didn’t need a visa to work in the UK under European law.

REQUIRED

Offer of job by approved sponsor Yes 20

Job at appropriate skill level Yes 20

Speaks English at the required level Yes 10

Salary of £20,480 (minimum) to £23,099 No 0

Salary of £23,040 to £25,599 No 10

Salary of £25,600 or above No 20

Job in shortage occupation No 20

PhD in subject relevant to job No 10

Relevant PhD in STEM subject (Science, No 20

Technology, Engineering, Maths)

London and South East-based Headmasters group claims the Immigration

ill will impact heavily on its business. ays chief eecutive au aymond

“Since the announcement of Brexit we’ve faced an active decline in the

numbers of candidates applying from Europe. About 10 per

cent of our workforce is from the EU and we are not fully

staffed currently as there is not enough skilled hair labour

in the UK. It means we cannot open new salons or staff

existing salons effectively, which has a direct impact on

our bottom line. The way the Immigration ill is udged

discriminates against hairdressers and hairdressing

businesses. The basic wage is lower than the £25,600

threshold for skilled labour; however, most hairdressers take

home more than that as it’s a commission-based

industry. Please take into consideration the average wage,

rather than the basic. Also, to say this is lower skilled work

is insulting. Cutting and colouring takes years of specialist

training. Let’s look to other countries who successfully

import labour. For example, in Canada they have express

entry for hairdressers as the country has a national

shortage of them. We need a similar dispensation here.

POINTS

SALON

OWNERS – HAVE

YOUR SAY. Head to

creativeheadmag.com and

complete our Recruitment

and Immigration survey.

You can help bring

about change!

59

#Recruitment

salons and bigger national salon chains rely on.

“When we asked salons: ‘what can we do to help with

this recruitment challenge?’ They shared two things,”

says Beatrice Dautzenberg, managing director of LPPD.

“First, working at grass roots level and helping to accelerate

the number of people joining the industry. Second,

continuing to be able to recruit as they do today from other

countries, including those in Europe. The current Immigration

Bill would have a significant impact on salons having access

to talent – and people and talent is what makes this industry

thrive and grow.”

LPPD is currently campaigning at government level to

reclassify hairdressing as high-skilled, with Dautzenberg

listing “the years of learning and commitment, complicated

colour chemistry, cutting precision and articulate aptitude,

not to mention the emotional intelligence, communication

and excellence in customer care and wellbeing”.

She can also point to the recent industry overhaul of its

education programmes, bringing hairdressing training in

line with academic qualifications. For example, the new

Trailblazer Level 2 apprenticeship is transforming how the

industry trains and tests its new recruits, resulting in a

qualification equivalent to GCSEs at grades 9 to 4 (A* to C).

And from 2023, students aged 16 to 18 will be able to

study a T-Level in hair, beauty and aesthetics, equivalent

to three A-Levels.

Industry efforts need to re-double now to ensure

hairdressing truly leverages that moment in the lockdown

spotlight. Forge close working relationships with external

partners such as local schools and colleges. Put your efforts

into inspiring your clients – your potential new recruits’

parents – that this is an amazing career; 16-year-olds do very

little without their parents’ approval so let them know your

salon will give their children a future. Make sure your clients

know everything you do with your apprentices. Be loud on

social media about their training, the shows and events you

take them to. That way, when someone hears of a young

person who wants to enter the industry, everyone will tell

them they must come to learn from you.

With perfect timing (if we do say so ourselves), Creative

HEAD has just launched The Industry (the-industry.co.uk), a

new digital hub showcasing everything young people (and

their parents) need to know about a career in hairdressing,

from how and where to train, through to the incredible

opportunities that wait them once they’re qualified. There’s

also a 50-minute documentary following the lives of seven

different hair professionals – including Anthony Turner, Anna

Cofone and Ky Wilson – made not only to smash stigmas but

also to inform, surprise and inspire a wider audience.

Let’s hope that hairdressing’s new elevated status

continues after lockdown: that the media recognises hair

professionals for the trained experts they are and that

schools and careers advisers – and parents – stop regarding

a career in hairdressing as unattractive. The opportunities

are endless in this hugely supportive, flexible, diverse and

inclusive industry, and it’s our duty to inform and inspire the

public about them.

“Without apprentices, there is no

development, no support network,

no growth and no culture”

Sarah Seaman

Academy principal, Westrow House Academy, Yorkshire

“We’ve always seen apprentices as the future for our

business and the industry at large. Without apprentices,

there is no development, no support network, no growth

and no culture.

“We are constantly recruiting apprentices. Alongside

marketing our academy to salons in the local area, we make

sure we have a presence at the Leeds City Apprenticeship

Fair, obtaining contact information for any students

interested in a career in hairdressing.

“We also contact all our affi liated salons to see if

they are looking to recruit a new apprentice for the

upcoming summer/winter periods, and from this a list

of salon vacancies is collated, ready to share with

prospective students.

“We hold an open day once a year, which we advertise

by social media and through contact with school career

leads, who share the information among their Year 11 and

12 students. Prospective students have the chance to

look around and talk to staff and students, and we also

provide them with the list of vacancies in salons that are

well suited to them.”

60

“A few years ago it was very worrying”

Melenie Tudor

owner of En Route Hair & Beauty, West Yorkshire

“About fi ve years ago I realised that trying to recruit young

team members was becoming more and more diffi cult. The

government had introduced a policy that required all school

leavers to attain a certain level in Maths and English, and I

discovered that many pupils thought they had stay on in a

school environment to achieve this. At one local school not

one pupil had left to go onto an apprenticeship that year. I

really felt I needed to do something about it.

“I approached various secondary schools in my area to

ask them if my team and I could talk to some of their pupils

about hairdressing apprenticeships. It took me quite a while

to get a response, but eventually I was invited to speak to

some Year 10 students and as a result my name got passed

on to Leeds Enterprise Partnership and I was assigned as

an enterprise adviser to a school in Wakefi eld. It involves

me going into the school every term, and recently I’ve been

able to start pushing hairdressing. The last workshop I did

saw 20 students turn up. We chatted about hairdressing

as a career, the lifestyle, the opportunities. Then we had a

practical session, which they loved.

“When I speak to training providers they do say things are

improving and they are getting more applicants now. But a

few years ago it was very worrying.”

“College students think they can

work in a salon, be mobile or work on

cruise ships. That’s it! Three things!”

Richard Phillipart

owner of The Boutique Atelier, Cheshire

“Education and inspiration are things all hairdressers should

be exposed to, not just us lucky lot in great salons. Because

of this I spend a few days each year at my local college

giving talks to new students, teaching older students and

hopefully inspiring them with what someone who once went

to their college has achieved – and what they can too.

“The students in college are simply not aware of

everything hairdressing can offer. They tend to think they

can work in a salon, be mobile or work on cruise ships.

That’s it! Three things! So I talk to them about working on

red carpets, photoshoots and fashion shows, as well as all

the opportunities to travel the world. I want to inspire them

to be better, to aim higher.

“There’s a lot more that the colleges can do to engage

with young people and draw them into a career in hair –

such as taking students to trade shows. But also brands

should connect more with colleges – send teams in to teach

new techniques and so on. Brands need to wake up to the

fact these college students are a huge part of their future

custom and they can get in early and blow their minds.”

“We have so many students with the potential to become great stylists”

Julie Allen

curriculum leader in hair and beauty, Barnsley College

“Barnsley College fosters great connections with salons in the area, based on a commitment to provide suitable

apprentices to work in those salons, and an open dialogue between the apprentice team and the salon. We invite

salons to college open days to see what we can offer their apprentices, and we’ve had several special events

with [Barnsley College-trained] Andrew Barton, where salons have had a great experience.

“The salons we work with can see that we have so many students with the potential to become great

stylists and they can choose someone suitable to enhance their business. Communication is vital between

the salon and the apprentice team and the success of apprentices within the salons.

“I thoroughly recommend that salon owners attend an open day at their local college to speak to tutors

about what they are looking for in an apprentice. Taking on students to do work experience is also a good way

to see the potential they have and if they would be a suitable apprentice. It also helps the student to decide if

they prefer full time education as opposed to working in the salon and doing one day a week in college.”

62

A little

longer

CREATIVE HEAD

Hair: Callum McDonald and Hayden Cassidy, Ruffians Shoreditch. Make-up: Zoë Moore. Photography: Jack Clark

BACK IN THEIR SHOPS, BARBERS FACE CHANGES TO THE WAY

THEY WORK, THE SERVICES THEY CAN OFFER AND THE IMPACT

OF LOCKDOWN ON THE ATTITUDE TO MEN’S HAIR NOW.

MR Q INVESTIGATES…

THERE’S CERTAINLY A lockdown look being sported by plenty of guys around the UK (heavier

beard? Check! Longer lengths? Check!), but what will the long-term impact of this be on men’s hair

trends and barbering in general? Which services do barbers need to reassess now that clients are

back in the chair?

“Barber shops are going to have one of the toughest times adapting after the lockdown, because of

the way that they are used to working,” admits Fudge Professional ambassador Jonathan Andrew,

pointing to busy shops full of customers simply walking in and waiting for their cut – the buzzy

vibe that many barber shops thrive on and clients love. “This may mean a few more rules to abide

by, and hopefully won’t have a detrimental effect to the shop in general. But I think the way we

have always worked will be quite different for a while.”

Following UK government guidelines for England and with social distancing in place, many

have axed the walk-in-and-wait culture for hygiene and safety reasons. And those guidelines also

specify that you can only cut/treat hair on the head, which affects the services you can offer. “It

could be a while before we can carry out full beard services,” adds Denis Robinson at Ruffians.

“It makes sense, even as we reopen and come out of lockdown, that barbers aren’t working up

close. Haircuts can be carried out wearing visors and with consideration, but working around the

face in such a close and intimate manner as shaving won’t be an option for a while yet.”

Mark Maciver, AKA Slidercuts, understands that people are going to be more conscious about

hygiene and safety. “They are such close-knit spaces, barbers are using their tools on one client

and then another. There will be a worry about it,” he admits.

He shares a simple yet effective method to reassure clients about the cleanliness of clippers

being used: “We all know you’re meant to clean your clippers after every client, but I’ve seen

plenty of barbers who don’t. I always clean my clippers before every hair cut, because that way

the client sees it. If you do it afterwards, they have to take your word for it. But I always do it

while they’re in the chair.”

Someone who’s role is to assess and interpret the changing landscape of men’s hair trends is

John Vial, co-founder of Salon Sloane and a regular backstage at London Fashion Week Men’s,

where most recently the Revlon Professional global influencer styled the Charles Jeffrey

Loverboy A/W20 show. Due to social media, trends are not what they once were – everything

moves so quickly – so part of John’s job is to identify gaps in the market and where he sees

‘movements’ rather than trends happening.

He identified two types of men during lockdown: one happy to turn to his partner and say

‘let’s try cutting it. If it doesn’t work, I’ll just clipper it off’. The other, more conscious of his

appearance, wouldn’t let anyone but a barber cut his hair. John explains: “He’ll have lots of

products and, in that period, he’s gone through the pain of growing it and he’s not going to

go back to the fade. So organically I think we’re going to see a big shift in a large percentage

of men’s hair. It’s not been in vogue for men to have long hair since the ’90s, and we are

definitely moving towards that.”

Plenty of male celebrities took to Instagram to share their home-based shearings which,

Hayden Cassidy, a rising barber talent with a chair at Ruffians, admits had an impact,

influencing about 10 per cent of her clients to give themselves a buzz cut. “At least that

will grow back evenly,” she smiles.

She used her social media to share styling tips and product recommendations to help

clients cope with their shut-in length. “A lot of guys come in with the same haircut for

10 years and when you ask them if they’ve though about changing, 50 per cent will say

‘yes, I’d love to change I just don’t know what to do’. You build up this trust with clients,

so I used that time to say to experiment, to give them some help.”

2019 Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist and founder of Fowler35, Darren Fowler,

agrees that the lockdown presented the opportunity for some to test out something

new. “The grow-out period people can’t usually go through because they’re at work and

they need to look sharp… they didn’t have that and they are actually trying something

different,” he explains. “Guys’ hair tends to grow sideways or out from those corners,

and they’ve already gone through that now so there will be room for manoeuvre. But

I guarantee there will be those who can’t wait to get that fade back in!”

CREATIVE HEAD

63

R OS C OE

64

CREATIVE HEAD

C LA UD I A

ZACH

THE BRIGHTON CONTINGENT

Shot in March during the rising anxiety of the Covid-19 pandemic and just days

before UK lockdown, Simon Webster Hair captured the last blow-out before this group

of musicians, artists and agitators went their separate ways.

This collection was inspired by The Bromley Contingent: a crew of creative teens

that included Billy Idol, Siouxsie Sioux and Soo Catwoman who became the entourage

that followed the Sex Pistols in the ‘70s and helped to popularise the fashion of the

UK punk movement. They customised their clothes, ripping up and remaking, crafting

a beautiful/ugly aesthetic that dominated the era.

Times of unrest and upheaval resonate through art, music and fashion. They provoke

reinvention and innovation, defiance and energy, creativity and change.

This is The Brighton Contingent…

Photography by Chris Bulezuik

CREATIVE HEAD 65

L O U i E

KID ZERO

66

CREATIVE HEAD

KIDDO

HAIR Simon Webster Hair Art Team. CONCEPT AND LEAD Simon Webster.

MAKE-UP Xoë Kingsley. STYLING models’ own

FAYE

CREATIVE HEAD

67

68

CREATIVE HEAD

The

Bright

Forever

PACKED WITH COMMERCIAL, WEARABLE LOOKS THAT CLIENTS WILL CRAVE, THIS

NEW COLLECTION FROM BIRMINGHAM’S HAZEL & HAYDN PLAYS WITH COLOUR,

TEXTURE AND FINISH TO HELP LIFT THOSE LOCKDOWN BLUES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GARAZI

CREATIVE HEAD 69

70

CREATIVE HEAD

CREATIVE HEAD 71

72

CREATIVE HEAD

HAIR Hazel & Haydn Art Team. MAKE-UP Meg Lindow. STYLING Zoë Kozlik

SEE MORE of this shoot online

at creativeheadmag.com

CREATIVE HEAD 73

Had the BEST 40th social

distancing birthday!

Zooming with my daughter

Pearl and the Russell Eaton

Salons team

With my brilliant wife

Libby on my birthday

Installing safety screens

ready for reopening

In the

frame

Robert Eaton (@robertjeaton),

Wella Professionals UK & Ireland

technical director and creative

director of Russell Eaton Salons,

snaps away

Promoting virtual

consultations ahead

of reopening

A virtual consultation with

a client as her husband

attempts to help... think my

job’s safe though!

We’re excited early

for Christmas…

74

Proud to support

@theindustrysquad. Let’s get

more young people excited

about hairdressing!

Pearl’s rainbow to support

the NHS

Going the distance at

Russell Eaton Salons

CREATIVE HEAD

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DISCOVER MORE AT MILKSHAKEHAIRCARE.CO.UK

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01392 365177

Creative HEAD UK July 2020

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