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my journey 33<br />
Mexico to the left<br />
of me, Belize to the<br />
right of me...<br />
San Pedro’s dreamy waterfront<br />
inspired Madonna<br />
book sandy coastline that goes on for ever. It’s<br />
surreal and intoxicating.<br />
My vague knowledge of the country’s history<br />
comes to a shuddering halt as I lean against a tree<br />
in Placencia’s sidewalk beach (think Robinson<br />
Crusoe) listening to the ethereal sounds of Garifuna<br />
drumming and singing.<br />
I adore these handsome people, singing their<br />
hearts out with immaculate rhythm and timing.<br />
But the main event is now under way as the<br />
magnificently proud yet humble leader retells<br />
the stories of bygone years when his people<br />
were evicted from St Vincent by the British, then<br />
suppressed, abused and almost wiped out before<br />
finally – what was left of them – were allowed to<br />
settle on the South Coast of the country.<br />
What do they think of me as a descendant of their<br />
oppressors? It’s a silly thought of course. They<br />
engage with us with unreserved warmth that is<br />
genuine, fulsome and joyfully noisy!<br />
Jungle dreaming<br />
There’s plenty of luxury, even in the jungle – which<br />
is where we find ‘Chaa Creek’.<br />
Not far from San Ignacio and close to the<br />
Guatemala border, this jungle resort is in the heart<br />
of the Maya civilisation and is one of the world’s<br />
best eco-lodges. The Cottage Collection bungalows<br />
at Chaa Creek (sleeps up to three) start from around<br />
£305 per night on B&B basis, including activities<br />
including bird watching, butterfly farm tour, natural<br />
history museum tour and use of canoes.<br />
Over an ice-cold beer Mick and Lucy Fleming tell<br />
their story – how they pioneered their travel dream<br />
way back in <strong>19</strong>81. Since then they have been driven<br />
simply by the goal of coexistence with nature while<br />
providing a true jungle experience for visitors. Their<br />
impressive eco-farming techniques supply the lodge<br />
and guests with all the organic produce needed.<br />
We take the short drive to the unmissable and<br />
remarkable - ‘Xunantunich’ - one of the great Maya<br />
ancient cities. Dating from between 600 and 950AD<br />
it is a ‘must-see’ for visitors.<br />
Remarkable and unmissable - words that for me<br />
also sum up this small Central American nation. •<br />
Garifuna<br />
singing and<br />
dancing<br />
An ‘ex’ tarantula,<br />
thank goodness!<br />
WHERE TO BOOK IT<br />
Abercrombie and Kent has a seven-night<br />
Highlights of Belize package from £2,890pp<br />
and includes return fl ights, accommodation<br />
and transport. abercrombiekent.co.uk<br />
Explore Worldwide’s 14-day Discover Belize<br />
trip starts at £2,659pp and includes fl ights,<br />
transfers, accommodation, some meals plus<br />
an Explore leader. explore.co.uk<br />
Getting away from it<br />
all...Palmento Grove<br />
is one of many<br />
eco-lodges run by<br />
locals<br />
A quick bite!<br />
Mashed maize,<br />
okra and a<br />
vicious-looking<br />
local fi sh<br />
sellingtravel.co.uk