GREECE ‘ IT’S A CATERED VILLA, A LUXURY MOBILE HOME AND SPORTS RESORT ALL ROLLED INTO ONE ’ success, it is impossible for me to get cross with him. That afternoon we drop anchor in a preposterously cobalt-coloured bay, Lakka, beloved of postcard-sellers and yacht charters. We windsurf, paddleboard, and take selfies against the improbable blue, but somehow the magic is gone, crowded out by the yachtie hoi polloi. ‘How about a walk?’ suggests Charlie, delivering a masterstroke. He drops us ashore, then takes Argentous along the coast to pick us up in the next village, Longos, leaving us to follow a thyme-scented donkey track between beaches and abandoned watermills, olive groves and hamlets. I’m not saying there’s no moaning, but in between grunts the boys chase crickets, stroke goats and play Marco Polo in the shallows at Manadendri Beach. It feels like we’ve wandered off the tourist trail to glimpse a Greece that few people get to see. What you don’t get on Argentous, we discover waking to a force-six wind the next day, is guaranteed good weather. But Plan A's loss (we had been aiming for the indecently photogenic Voutoumi Bay on Antipaxos) is Plan B’s gain, as we divert to Porto Ozias, a one-taverna inlet at the eastern end of Paxos. Glassily calm and inexplicably free of other boats, the inlet is a gloriously windless shelter from the storm. For hours we windsurf and wakeboard, sunbathe and read, eventually sailing in for dinner in Paxos’s main town, Gaios, where our boys play football on the cobbles below the church. So far, so Instagram, but don’t you get exactly the same memories — for half the price — on a bog-standard skippered-yacht charter? Well, actually, no. For one thing those bog-standard charters might occasionally have a mini speedboat to ferry you between boat and port, but with nowhere near enough horsepower to tow a waterski or wakeboard. Take away the water sports, and a yacht — for kids — is basically a floating prison. But more than that, Argentous makes you feel like royalty. It’s partly just the sleek lines, the teak deck, the towering mast. As we pulled into Gaios, people actually got out of their boats (daubed in rental-agency logos) for a better look. But it’s also the service: no-frills yacht charters are hard work. You cook, you clean, you pull ropes, you shop: it’s fun, but you’ll need a holiday afterwards. With Joy below-decks and Charlie at the helm, the only finger you lift on Argentous is the pinky on your drink. It’s a catered villa, a luxury mobile home and sports resort all rolled into one. On our last day, we sail back into Gouvia marina on Corfu, all five of us sitting silently on-deck in pre-emptive mourning. ‘You’ll just have to come back next summer,’ says Joy. Yeah, right. At $13,000 a week and without another inheritance on the horizon, it's a 'probably not' from us. However, there were times on this trip — wakeboarding in that abandoned cove, swimming round the boat at dawn, playing cards on deck — when we felt so truly spoilt, so dizzyingly privileged, I knew it was worth every penny. A year on, Argentous’s owners have added three more luxury yachts to their fleet. One, Aurous, is a five-cabin catamaran with a trampoline and sundeck. My advice? Nab it before my kids get wind of that trampoline. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com 50 worldtravellermagazine.com
These pages: Sunset bridges the gap between Corfu and Sivota island worldtravellermagazine.com 51