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World Traveller October 2019

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This image: A New<br />

Orleans jazz band<br />

in the city's French<br />

Quarter<br />

Right: Disney<br />

Concert Hall in<br />

downtown LA<br />

San José<br />

The heart of<br />

Silicon Valley has<br />

a lot more going<br />

for it than the<br />

headquarters of<br />

Google, Apple<br />

and Facebook.<br />

This anythingis-possible<br />

burgeoning city has<br />

an exciting global<br />

food scene, art<br />

museums and topdrawer<br />

shopping<br />

that ranges from<br />

makers market<br />

to fashionable<br />

Santana Row. And<br />

if you’re a tech<br />

nerd, you won’t<br />

be disappointed<br />

— the sprawling<br />

Tech Museum of<br />

Innovation is<br />

mind-blowing.<br />

New Orleans<br />

Why go? Jazz... Fried oysters...<br />

Funerals that are also street<br />

parties... Street parties that are also<br />

ground-quaking 14-day festivals of<br />

decadence... New Orleans literally<br />

invented these things. And the city’s<br />

still a place where they let les bon<br />

temps roule with a unique swagger.<br />

Ease yourself into the city with<br />

a drink at Longway Tavern, just<br />

metres from rowdy Bourbon Street<br />

in the prettily historic central French<br />

Quarter, to enjoy its sultry plantstrewn<br />

courtyard.<br />

Brunch at Brennan’s is an elegant<br />

institution, and you’ll never<br />

understand this city if you don’t<br />

embrace its bring-it-on attitude<br />

to food and drink. Come evening,<br />

catch trad jazz in its purest form at<br />

winsomely dilapidated Preservation<br />

Hall — no need to reserve seats,<br />

as the sociable queue and alfresco<br />

tippling make the line part of the<br />

fun. Dine at Justine, with street art<br />

on the walls, Frenchy stuff on the<br />

menu, and some light burlesque<br />

between tables.<br />

Next day, see a cemetery:<br />

NOLA entombs her deceased<br />

above ground in atmospheric<br />

stone cities of the dead. Saint<br />

Louise No. 1 has some famous<br />

graves, but a tour is compulsory<br />

(try twochickswalkingtours.com).<br />

Lafayette No. 1 cemetery is free and<br />

in the Garden District, where the<br />

city’s wealthy live in leafy, porticoed,<br />

plantation-era splendour: wander,<br />

28 worldtravellermagazine.com

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