World Traveller October 2019

AMERICAN CITIES
Chicago
Why go? Chicago is a proper, muscular
American city, with skyscrapers that
drip with Art Deco details, world-class
museums, and a sophisticated food
scene. But a walkable centre makes it
surprisingly doable in a few days.
Focus your sightseeing on the Loop,
Chicago’s downtown core. The quickest
way to get to know it is with a free tour
guide (chicagogreeter.com). Note an
interest in architecture and you may find
yourself with Nancy Whitlock, who will
whisk you to the Marquette Building’s
brass reliefs and Tiffany mosaics. Lunch
with the 9-5 crowd next door, at Revival
Food Hall, home to stall-sized offshoots
of hot city restaurants. The house-made
charcuterie from Danke is a must.
Next, head north on a river cruise
(shorelinesightseeing.com) for a neckcraning
view of the most giddying
buildings, such as the Champagnebottle-inspired
Carbide and Carbon
Building, designed as a two-fingered
salute to Prohibition. In the evening, raise
a glass to its architects at cosy, woodpanelled
Coq d’Or bar in the Drake Hotel,
the second in the city to obtain a liquor
licence after the repeal.
Day two: arrive early to beat the queue
for the Art Institute of Chicago, with its
A-list line-up, from Edward Hopper to
Vincent Van Gogh. Nearby, Miller’s Pub
serves American classics beneath the
rattling L-traintracks. Finally, take the
green L line to leafy Oak Park to ogle
the turreted mansion home of a teenage
Ernest Hemingway, who couldn’t wait to
leave, and to see where architect Frank
Lloyd Wright built his first house.
Take another two days to explore
Chicago’s neighbourhoods. Wrigleyville
is home to the Chicago Cubs, the 2016
World Series-winning baseball team.
You’ll find fans in noisy-but-fun cult
sports bar Sluggers, which even has
batting cages installed.
To the west, up-and-coming Logan
Square is littered with foodie spots such
as Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits. Join the
queue for sweet pies — think honey and
orange blossom.
San Diego
Picture classic
California beaches,
and you’re almost
certainly picturing
San Diego. Here,
there’s one for
every taste. Surfers
love Ocean Beach,
NASHVILLE
Why go? The barman in a
Stetson, pouring your shot;
barbecue chicken thighs so
hot they make your teeth
hurt; the next Taylor Swift
strumming a hard-luck song...
That’s what travellers imagine
they’ll get in Nashville, the
music capital of Tennessee (if
not the world). And you know
what? That’s exactly what
they get. Visit the city and
it’s like stepping into a No.1
country album. Take a tour
with Songbird to understand
how much music truly means
to Nashville. On board a
customised bus with a small
stage, passengers listen to
singer-songwriters perform
in between stories of big hits
and record-label wrangles
(songbirdtours.com).
Next up, duck into the
Country Music Hall of Fame
before nightfall. Here, Dolly
Parton outfits and Elvis’s
Cadillac bring the legends
back to life. Now hit honkytonk
bars on Broadway
(Tootsies is the best and
grimiest), where unsigned
acts are all good-enoughfor-a-Grammy.
Then find
your spot in the greatest
live-music venue of all time:
Ryman Auditorium, a temple
to acoustics — the audience
even sits on wooden pews.
where the waves
pound against the
shore. Fashionistas
join the yoga-pants
crowd at Pacific
Beach, with its
blue-and-whitecottage-lined
pier.
For palm trees
and sea lions, it’s
chi-chi La Jolla. For
wide white sands
backed by Golden
age mansions, try
Coronado.
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