Irish Beauty March-April 2020 Issue 144

.................................................................................................................. Candice Gardner Writes: Year-round UV protection
“Prolonged UVA
exposure can lead to
hyperpigmentation,
wrinkles, and skin
cancer, even though
there is no burning”.
HEV or blue light
What about high energy visible light (HEV) or blue light? Whilst we
have always experienced exposure from daylight, the increased use of
computers and smart devices has increased the concerns around free
radical damage and potential for health concerns in the future. High energy
visible light is the part of the light spectrum that sits right next to UV.
The energy produced is lower than that of UVA but can still cause some
generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS).
Early studies suggest that too much blue light may contribute to collagen
degradation, darken hyperpigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones, as
well as trigger inflammation. On the other end of the debate, there is a lot of
good research on the benefits of blue light for treatment of breakouts and
wound healing.
Research is still emerging in this area and we do not yet have sufficient
data collected over time to define accurately the level of exposure required
to cause a specific degree of damage. However, since blue light borders
UVA in the electromagnetic spectrum, some sunscreen filters like zinc oxide
and titanium dioxide can also shield from blue light at the same time as
providing UV protection.
With this in mind, what advice should we provide?
Selecting an SPF relative to your needs
Since prevention is better than cure, including sunscreen as part of your
daily regimen will reduce unwanted skin changes. Protection from skin
cancers and premature ageing requires both UVA and UVB shielding. Whilst
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) provides a measure of protection from UVB
and burning, always recommend a broad-spectrum sunscreen that has
the designated symbol (UVA in a circle) on the packaging to ensure your
product is protecting you from both. UVA screening is far more relevant in
the context of daily and indoor use.
No sunscreen can shield 100% of UV so select SPF relative to your needs.
Here is the relative level of protection based on SPF:
• SPF15 – 93.3% protection
• SPF30 – 96.6% protection
• SPF50 – 97.7% protection
If the product has the UVA symbol then the level of UVA protection
will be directly proportionate to the SPF.
Note that there is only around one percent difference in protection
between SPF30 and SPF50. Labelling regulations prevent a
sunscreen claiming more than SPF50+ as the incremental protection
is negligible and potentially misleading.
Based on skin condition and preference you can select from
chemical or physical sunscreens.
Chemical sunscreens use chemical compounds such as octocrylene
or octinoxate to absorb UV radiation and convert it to heat. This
chemical reaction is innocuous but the increase in heat in the skin is
the reason some skins find chemical sunscreens uncomfortable. The
advantage is that they are invisible on all skins, and water resistant,
making them suitable in lots of situations.
Physical sunscreens work like a mirror to reflect and scatter
damaging UV rays away from the skin. The mineral particles of
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide provide the physical shield and are
generally the preferred choice for sensitised skins and babies. Since
these particles don’t absorb into the skin they can rub off, sweat off
or rinse off easily. Traditionally, they have also been incredibly thick,
chalky formulas that left an annoying and obvious white residue.
Thankfully, there are better options now available.
If you are expecting an extended or high level of exposure, select
a sunscreen and apply generously 30 minutes prior to exposure.
Reapply every two hours.
For everyday layer over your regular moisturiser in the morning or
select a multitasking moisturiser with built in SPF. A single daily
application is sufficient for a day in the office with short bouts of
exposure on the commute or at lunch.
Skin care professionals know that sunscreen is not just for summer,
and with the right education, our customers can make this part of
their year round regimen.
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