Nomad issue #26

DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
ISSUE 26| FEB/MAR 2020 | FREE COPY
WEEKEND
AWAY
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ETHIOPIAN
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2 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE
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EDITOR’S NOTE
A
ROMANTIC
WORK TRIPS ARE A THING, RIGHT?
s a travel writer, I get to stay at stunning and
often romantic locations that come with candle-lit
dinners set up right on the beach complete with
exquisite wine, and to experience it with me is
often our photographer, Brian. We have spent
evenings in a conservancy around a bonfire
watching the sun go down behind the Kilimanjaro, and
while the experience is always memorable, we are both in
consensus that it would be even better enjoyed with people
we’re dating. Traveling for work is a privilege, especially
the kind of work that we do, but it would still never beat trips
taken with a partner.
Still, being on a six-week vacation with my boyfriend at the
end of last year was an interesting experience. With work,
sometimes you’re on a set itinerary. Game drive at 6:00am.
Interview with the conservation manager at 8:00am. Breakfast
at 9:00am. Walking around the property’s greenhouse at
10:00am. Chat to the community leader shortly after. When
it’s clear that it’s a vacation, however, everything is up in the
air. During a stopover at The Cliff in Lake Nakuru National
Park, for instance, they offered to come and raise the flaps of
our tent early in the morning so we could catch the sunrise.
My boyfriend wanted to sleep in, but since I’m so used to
being on the go when I travel, I wanted to see the sun rise
over the lake. How else would I describe it if I were to later
write about it? I of course won that one, and he thanked
me for it, but there have been instances where I’ve needed
reminders to slow down.
Traveling with him vs for work also has its advantages, such
as offering a fresh perspective when I might be starting to get
a little jaded. Case in point, I was fast asleep one time during
a game drive while he was losing his mind about seeing a
pair of rhinos up close. Thing is, I’ve been on so many game
drives for work that I’m no longer as excited about certain
animals as I used to be, but being reminded about how sweet
you have it can be just the jolt you need.
Whether you’re traveling for work or with your partner this
February, we wish you a lovely trip! Meanwhile, come with
us across Africa to Senegal, Ethiopia, Lamu and Sao Tome &
Principe...
ON THE COVER
ELEWANA LODO
SPRINGS LODGE,
LAIKIPIA
Wendy Watta
@WattaOnTheGo
NOMAD ISSUE 26 · FEB/MAR 2020· PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU DIGITAL FAITH KANJA
CONTRIBUTORS MAURICE SCHUTGENS, AMI DOSHI SHAH, JOE WAHOME, SAMANTHA DU TOIT, BRIAN KIMEU, NORA MUSA
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, STEPHANIE KING'ORI, PRANAV CHADHA, HARDIK THANKI
MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, JANE NAITORE
SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO
NomadMagazineAfrica @NomadMagAfrica @NomadMagazineAfrica
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 7

CONTENTS
February/March 2020
38
34
24
In this issue
28
10. TOP SHOTS
This month’s featured photographers
witness a clan of hyenas hunting down
a wildebeest then eating it alive before
being interrupted by a lion, and more.
16. NEWS
Turkish Airlines announces free stopover
accommodation in Istanbul, Jambojet
kicks off direct flights to Kigali, and other
updates.
17. WHATS ON
Events you should be planning to attend
this coming month, such as the Lamu Yoga
Festival.
9. BOOK REVIEW
We feature “From Scratch: A Memoir of
Love, Sicily, and Finding Home” by Tembi
Locke.
FEATURES
24. LOVE ISLAND
The Cabanas in Lamu is the kind of
secluded paradise that ignites the
romance without much effort, leaving
lovers under its spell.
40. AN ETHIOPIAN FEAST
Wendy Watta signs up for an immersive
Ethiopian food tour in Addis Ababa.
38. SENEGAL: NO LONGER UNDER THE
RADAR
Nora Musa brushes up on her French then
spends two weeks in Senegal, kicking off
her trip in Dakar where she checks out
beaches, cafes, markets, neighbourhoods,
art and more.
REGULARS
18. NOTES FROM THE BUSH
As we settle into the New Year, Samantha
du Toit wonders why we like to think of it
as ‘new’. Out in the bush, from the zebras
on the plains to the hyenas whooping near
their tent, today is just another day.
20. GLOBETROTTERS
We talk to stylish traveler Silvia Njoki
about traveling with her six year old
daughter and how exploring different
cultures has shaped her world view.
22. KENYAN TRAVELER
With his eyes set on summiting Big Daddy
as well as experiencing the Deadvlei
and Soussvlei, Brian Kimeu traverses the
Namib Desert in breathtaking Namibia.
34. SPOTLIGHT
A family drives down to Lodo Springs,
Elewana’s latest addition to the wildliferich
Loisaba Conservancy in Laikipia.
36. MAURICE SCHUTGENS VISITS YET
ANOTHER country in Africa, this time,
the twin-island state of São Tomé and
Príncipe, and finds out why you should go.
42. GREAT HOTELS
Come with us to Impala Ecolodge in
Kisumu.
8 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

CONTRIBUTORS
WHICH DESTINATION HAVE THEY FOUND THEMSELVES RETURNING TO THIS PAST YEAR?
STEPHANIE KINGORI
Topshots, Page 12
The Majlis Resort in Lamu. It has luxurious,
stylish furniture and unique features with
beautiful swahili architecture all round. The
interior décor is well thought out and offers
a serene environment to ensure you are
relaxed as you enjoy your vacation. The pool
has a spectacular view of the ocean that
allows you to marvel at God’s beauty while
reading a book and sipping some
wine.
We discovered this month’s book
recommendations via Reese Witherspoon’s
book club. Every month, Reese picks one
book she loves with a woman at the center
of the story and shares it with her book club.
If one of your goals this year is to read more
books but you’re wondering where to start,
her recommendations thus far are worth
checking out to see what stands out to you.
One favourite so far, a recommendation from
BRIAN KIMEU
Kenyan Traveler, Page 22
If home is where the heart is, my heart
belongs to two lovers. When I think of home,
my mind wanders through the labyrinthine
streets of Lamu town and my skin tingles at
the thought of the sun on my skin, basking
at Shela beach. There’s nothing that would
warm my heart more than to share the place
that I love the most with the person that I love
the most.
“FROM SCRATCH”
By Tembi Locke
early last year, is “From Scratch: A Memoir
of Love, Sicily, and Finding Home” by Tembi
Locke.
The synopsis reads, “It was love at first
sight when Tembi met professional chef,
Saro, on a street in Florence. There was
just one problem: Saro’s traditional Sicilian
family did not approve of him marrying
a black American woman, an actress no
less. However, the couple, heartbroken but
undeterred, forges on. They build a happy
life in Los Angeles, with fulfilling careers,
deep friendships and the love of their lives: a
baby girl they adopt at birth. Eventually, they
reconcile with Saro’s family just as he faces a
formidable cancer that will consume all their
dreams.
From Scratch chronicles three summers
Tembi spends in Sicily with her daughter,
Zoela, as she begins to piece together a life
without her husband in his tiny hometown
hamlet of farmers. Where once Tembi was
estranged from Saro’s family and his origins,
MAURICE SCHUTGENS
Dispatch, Page 36
For me it's all about disappearing far off the
beaten track with my girlfriend, to a place as
far away from humanity and all reminders
of civilization. Surely there is nothing more
romantic than finding yourself somewhere
in the African wilderness, looking up at the
stars listening to the sounds of bush. Cliche?
Maybe - but nobody can deny that it's a
winning formula!
Book Review
now she finds solace and nourishment—
literally and spiritually—at her mother in
law’s table. In the Sicilian countryside, she
discovers the healing gifts of simple fresh
food, the embrace of a close knit community,
and timeless traditions and wisdom that
light a path forward. All along the way
she reflects on her and Saro’s incredible
romance—an indelible love story that leaps
off the pages.
In Sicily, it is said that every story begins
with a marriage or a death—in Tembi Locke’s
case, it is both. Her story is about loss, but
it’s really about love found. Her story is
about travel, but it’s really about finding a
home. It is about food, but it’s really about
chasing flavor as an act of remembrance.
From Scratch is for anyone who has dared to
reach for big love, fought for what mattered
most, and needed a powerful reminder that
life is…delicious.”
To get a copy, look it up on Amazon,
Audible and Indiebound.
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 9

10 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

TOP SHOTS
HARDIK THANKI
@hardikblitz
Even a king needs to relax after a good
meal. I took this photo of the lion after
he had eaten his lunch one afternoon
in the animal orphanage at the Nairobi
National Park.
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 2019 11

STEPHANIE KING'ORI
@explore_withsteph
During a road trip, we came across the
expansive yellow canola fields in Kisima.
This image was taken at around 5:00pm
using a Nikon D610 camera with a
Nikkor 70-300mm lens and a custom
made cineflat profile.
TIP: Always create a colour palette for
your images and aim for the golden hours;
either sunrise or sunset.

ESPRESS’
YOUR LOVE
+254 67 586 3000
dormanscoffee
dormanscoffee
Celebrating 70 years of great coffee [1950-2020]
Dormans Coffee

TOP SHOTS
14 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

PRANAV CHADHA
@P_CHADHA
On our last morning game drive in Maasai
Mara, a clan of hyenas brought down a
wildebeest and started eating it while it
was still alive. Minutes later, a sub-adult
male lion came in and took over the
kill, only to find that the hyenas left very
little meat. I used a Nikon D3300 with
a Nikkor 200-500 mm lens at 500mm,
f/5.6, 1/1600s and ISO 800.
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 15

NEWS & EVENTS
TURKISH AIRLINES ANNOUNCES FREE STOP OVER
ACCOMMODATION
Turkish Airlines is offering its passengers flying to
Africa, Asia, the Far East and the Middle East a free
stopover in Istanbul if they are traveling from the
United Kingdom. Those with round-trip tickets will be
given free accommodation to stay in Turkey’s largest
city. They just have to send an application to their
country’s Turkish Airlines e-mail address at least 72
hours before the first flight.
Economy class passengers can enjoy a single night
stay in a four-star hotel while those in business class
can stay in a five-star-room for two nights. While
there, they can take the chance to discover the rich
culture, history and cuisine that Istanbul has to offer.
AZURE HOTEL UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT
PrideInn group of hotels has with immediate effect taken up
Azure hotel, located in Nairobi Lantana Rd, on a revenue-sharing
management contract with a possibility of fully acquiring it within
the course of this year. This new management contract will see the
two investors use profits to strengthen the operational efficiency of
the PrideInn Azure hotel in line with world-class best practices that
suit the local market. The PrideInn Group of hotels is also looking to
expand and grow its footprints in Kenya and Africa at large using
this new model of revenue sharing management contracts.
JAMBOJET KICKS OFF DIRECT FLIGHTS TO KIGALI
Regional low-cost carrier Jambojet made its inaugural flight to Kigali,
officially becoming the first low-cost carrier in Kenya to fly the route.
The airline will be flying once daily from its hub at Jomo Kenyatta
International Airport to Kigali International Airport. This comes
after Jambojet recently expanded its fleet with two brand new De
Havilland Dash 8 - 400. The airline is charging promotional rates of
Ksh 11,240 for one way on the Kigali Route.
EMIRATES INTRODUCES LIMITED OFFERS FOR KENYAN TRAVELLERS
Emirates offered jet-setters in Kenya special 2020 roundtrip global
fares to enable them to plan early for their next adventures. For
a limited time, jet-setters looked forward to great deals to key
destinations in Emirates’ global network with special Business Class
and Economy Class fares. Return fares started at less than $484
(Kshs 48,884) and were available until January 21st 2020, and will
be valid for travel until November 30th 2020. With the vibrant and
dynamic city of Dubai as its hub, Emirates provides travellers with
direct connections to more than 159 destinations in 85 countries
and territories. For more information, visit www.emirates.com/ke, or
visit the Kenyan Emirates office located at 9 West Building, Ring Rd
Parklands, Nairobi or your travel agent.
16 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

2020 TROPIC AIR 10TO4
MOUNTAIN BIKE CHALLENGE
The 2020 Tropic Air 10to4 will take place
on 14th-16th February 2020, starting at
an altitude of 10,000ft on the slopes of
Mount Kenya and ending on the savannahs
of Borana Conservancy at 4,000ft.
Having started in 2002 as a very small
mountain biking event, with just a handful
of riders, this event has grown to over 350
competitors from across the globe, raising
over US$80,000. With courses for all
abilities, this annual event provides a unique
opportunity for people to enjoy Mount
Kenya and its beautiful surrounding wildlife
conservancies, whilst raising critical funds for
Mount Kenya Trust’s community projects and
mountain conservation. www.10to4.org
LAMU YOGA FESTIVAL
The seventh annual Lamu Yoga Festival will be held from
4th to 8th March 2020. The festival offers five days of
yoga with over 25 teachers, 150 yoga classes, meditations
and workshops. Festival activities will be centered in the
charming village of Shela, but will encompass Manda Island
and Lamu Old Town, so the whole area will be abuzz. A
variety of yoga classes and meditations for all levels will be
offered at 12 unique venues and studios. You can also get a
taste of Swahili culture by joining the planned Swahili dinner,
sunset dhow sail and a final bonfire. www.lamuyoga.org
KENYA KITE FESTIVAL
This is a family event that allows adults
to relive their childhood and kids to learn
something new and exciting through kite
flying at a picnic style event with live music.
The event will be taking place on Sunday
15th March, at the Nairobi Polo Club
between 11:00am and 6:00pm. Activities
will include kiting competitions and an
interactive kiddy corner. Food, drinks and
kites will be available for sale throughout
the day. Please bring a kanga or blanket to
sit on.www.ticketsasa.com
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 17

NOTES FROM THE BUSH
AND SO
IT BEGINS…
As we settle into the New Year, Samantha du Toit
wonders why we like to think of it as ‘new’. Out in
the bush, from the zebras on the plains to the hyenas
whooping near the tents, today is just another day.
The time has come to reset
the calendar, make some
resolutions for the next year
and take stock of 2019. It
seems we call it a ‘new’ year,
but this time, as we sipped tea
and watched the sunrise over
the unusually green, grassy
plains behind camp, I found
myself wondering why we like
to think of it as ‘new’. What is ‘new’ and how
does it apply to the things that surround us?
To much of the immediate world around
us, from the zebras on the plains to the
hyenas whooping near our tent, and the
Egyptian Goose who has recently appointed
himself our early morning wake-up call,
today is just another day. Yes, it might be a
warmer day or a cooler day, or a day where
food is plentiful, or indeed a day when it is
not, but ultimately it is just another day. And
to some things, like the thousands of different
types of caterpillars which have appeared
as a result of the rains, their lifetime is not
even close to a year, and a single day is a
significant portion of their lives.
When discussing this with the children
it gave me the opportunity to explore what
a year really is, and why it is the length
it is. Delving into the world of our solar
system for the first time since leaving school,
it was fun to share with the children the
story of our planet earth in relation to the
stars and planets they see in the sky every
night. At the moment, Venus shines brightly
down on us from the west as we sit by the
evening campfire. Their eyes grew wide with
amazement at the idea that our earth and
other planets orbit the sun, and how some
very clever humans a long time ago worked
out that it is possible to calculate the length
of these cycles, and that is how we have
arrived at the length of our year.
Despite all of this though, I have found
myself thinking about what is ‘new’ and
looking at the months ahead with fresh eyes.
To appreciate the cyclical nature of things
is reassuring, and to be able to press pause
every now and again to re-assess things is
refreshing. So what is new? Well, there is
new life everywhere thanks to the incredible
amount of rain we have experienced over
the past few months. Grass species not seen
in years have sprouted, and caterpillars in
shapes, colours and sizes that I have never
seen before are munching away on all the
bushes. We also invented a new solution to
our internet struggles – a phone ‘hotspot’ in
a plastic bottle which we hoist up the thorn
tree next to our office tent much like hoisting
a flag. It works surprisingly well for a lowtech
solution. And perhaps this will form
some of the resolutions for this year. Keep
everything as simple as possible, and keep
remembering that every day is a new day
but at the same time, it is just another day.
Samantha du Toit is a wildlife
conservationist, working with SORALO, a
Maasai land trust. She lives with her
husband, Johann, and their two children at
Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the
Shompole Conservancy.
18 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

GLOBETROTTERS
THE STYLISH
TRAVELER
Silvia Njoki is a Stylist and Digital Content
Creator. She talks to Joe Wahome about
traveling with her six year old daughter and
how exploring different cultures has shaped her
world view.
20 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

What inspires you to travel?
I have always been fascinated by differences in culture, food, religion,
languages and even physical attributes. As a young girl in primary school, I
would exchange photos and letters with pen-pals across the world; it was my
way to get a glimpse into their life and vice versa. Curiosity inspires me to travel.
How do you manage to travel regularly with your daughter who’s still in school?
It may seem like a lot because we share a lot of pictures, but our travels
together are always during her school holidays. We have a lot of fun exploring
together. She has picked up things like photography and has started to be more
adventurous with the food she eats, much like myself. She is very open to new
experiences.
What are some of your favourite places that you’ve been to?
Jamaica is relaxed, soulful and rich in culture and I love the music there. Bali
is absolutely breathtaking; the beaches, forests, rivers and the people are kind
and welcoming, not to forget that it has the most amazing vegan and vegetarian
restaurants I've ever tried. As a fashion lover, London has the best shopping
experience from thrift stores to high end designer brands and the nightlife is also
great. These three are my favorite places. I am yet to go to a country that offers
me a combination of all three, but this may change as there are a few countries
still on my bucket list.
Which destinations, then, are currently on your bucket list?
Australia, Egypt and Ethiopia, but also a few Latin American countries like
Mexico and Cuba.
How do you choose where you travel?
This may be inspired by pictures I see, stories I come across or meeting people
from a country in my day to day life and being inspired by accounts of their
homeland. Sometimes my travels are driven by a work related event, and once
I’m in that destination, I will grab the opportunity to travel in my free time.
What's your favorite thing to do in a new
town?
I am not too keen on hunting for the top
tourist attraction but prefer to meet with
the locals and get to know their daily life. I
therefore love to spend time in markets and
restaurants that serve local food. I definitely
want to experience the nightlife and clubbing
scene but also like to listen to the local music
at other more modest venues.
How has travel impacted you?
Travel has made me a lot more outgoing,
broadened my mind and made me more
accepting of people's differences. Solo
travel has on the other hand pushed me to
great limits and made me more aware of my
strengths.
How do you prepare for a trip?
Once I choose a destination, I do
some online research and come up
with an itinerary based on reviews and
recommendations by other travellers. If
possible, I even try to contact one or two
people there to have someone to hang
out with from the start to show me the
local spots. Since one of my primary aims
of traveling is to generate photo content
for social media, I also search for local
photographers to team up with.
What are some things you love to do in
Kenya?
My most memorable experiences are always
when I go back to my village where aspects
of my culture and traditions are still strong.
Times are changing fast and it is always
refreshing for me to go back home and be
reminded of our traditional values.
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 21

DANCING
IN THE DUNES
With his eyes set on summiting Big Daddy
as well as experiencing the Deadvlei and
Soussvlei, Brian Kimeu traverses the Namib
Desert in breathtaking Namibia.
PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN KIMEU
22 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

KENYAN TRAVELER
The ride from Namibia’s
capital, Windhoek,
to the coastal city of
Swakopmund is simply
breathtaking. The
landscape has hues
ranging from a dark rich
red to a deep earthy
brown, and the most
spectacular rock formations rise in the
distance as if beckoning you to explore.
I wanted to climb every single one. One
hour away from Walvis Bay, the sun
set, hanging low in the sky. Picture the
scene; a mountain straight ahead and
to my right, a big orange sphere at eye
level, the sky awash with a beautiful
blend of purple, red and orange as we
drove deeper into the evening fog.
Swakopmund is a little sleepy town
bursting with colour, full of adorable
little cafes and watering holes at every
corner. I got there at 10:00am, my
phone at less than 10% with no idea
where my bed and breakfast was. In
hindsight, I really was trying to get lost.
If it wasn’t for the kindness of the taxi
driver who not only offered to help me
find my accommodation but also took
me on a little detour into the township,
“Mission Dune” would’ve been but a
dream.
Having spent two nights in
Swakopmund, we set out into the desert
with a pit stop at Walvis Bay to view the
flamingos that call home a stretch of beach
here, their pink plumage contrasting sharply
with the dull tones of the Atlantic Ocean
blanketed in a heavy fog.
It took us two days to get to the dunes.
The drive there can only be summarized as
landscapes that ask you to simultaneously
experience them while also curating them
for the world to see, often leaving you in
a state of confusion as you drive through
the vastness of the desert. With the Namib
Naukluft Mountains looming not too far in
the distance, you would be remiss to try and
catch even a sliver of sleep.
The Naukluft
Mountains stretched
before me and
the Namib Desert
challenged the
horizon as far as my
bespectacled eyes
could see.
Finally, D Day (Dune Day) was upon
us and we had to be up early because we
had a two hour drive to the entrance of the
Namib Naukluft Park. When you go on
vacation, getting up early isn’t the kind of
thing you want to hear, especially if early in
this instance is 4:00am, but I was eager to
take in the views atop Big Daddy.
Dune 45, Big Daddy and the Soussvlei
and Deadvlei are all within driving distance
of each other, with the park providing 4x4’s
to ferry you from the pickup point to any of
these attractions. The park opens at 6:00am
and we had to be among the first to get
there to avoid the long queues for the few
4x4’s available. On the drive to the park
entrance, the moon languidly sashayed
away behind the Namib Naukluft to my left
taking the night’s cold with it.
Shortly after, we were at the bottom of
Big Daddy. Found between Soussvlei and
Deadvlei and at a height of 325m, this was
bound to be a challenge to climb especially
seeing as I straddle that fit/unfit line, but
“Mission Dune” was not for the weak.
Two hours, more stops than I care to
admit and a lot of heaving later, I was
on top of the world. Deadvlei, white and
blinding, spread below me. The Naukluft
Mountains stretched before me and the
Namib Desert challenged the horizon as far
as my bespectacled eyes could see. “Mission
Dune” was complete leaving me with a sense
of yearning for this beautiful country that
pushed me past my physical limits.
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 23

LOVE
The
ISLAND
Cabanas at Kizingoni Beach in Lamu: this
is the kind of secluded paradise that ignites the
romance without much effort, and as long as you’re
with a partner, you’re instantly put under a spell,
writes Wendy Watta
24 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

WEEKEND AWAY
My boyfriend and I have
been on a trip across
the north coast, booking
stays at boutique
romantic beachfront
owner-run properties
where our days are
spent going on romantic
sunset cruises, sipping
good wine and going
on long walks along pristine beaches
(and somehow still managing to have the
occasional argument). We save the best
for last; The Cabanas at Kizingoni Beach
in Lamu. This property was actually my
suggestion, having visited it previously in
2016 and vowing to one day return with a
partner.
Arriving at the all-too familiar Manda
Airport, a prearranged speedboat with a
friendly captain picks us up from the jetty
and pretty soon we’re darting across the sea
past mangrove forests towards the southern
end of the Lamu archipelago. Set a little far
from the airport (we wanted somewhere
secluded where the only other people we
would bump into would either be staff or a
fisherman passing through), it takes us about
35 minutes to get there. “Is that it?” he asks
eagerly as we approach Matondoni, then
Kipungani. “When you see it, believe me,
you will know it,” I respond.
Everything falls into place as we advance
upon a golden stretch of beach where staff
members dressed in breezy white shirts are
smiling and waving at us. Kizingoni beach
looks like a dream, and to be back here with
somebody it’s like straight out of one of those
romantic novels I spent afternoons poring
over under my desk during boring history
classes in high school. Perhaps due to the
fact that I always had my head buried in
books about faraway places as a teenager,
I’ve always wanted to be marooned on an
island, Robinson Crusoe style - albeit with all
the haute style and luxuries of a chic room
with clean linen - and this would be just the
place to live out those fantasies. As our bags
are carried to our room, we are ushered
to the bar area for a refreshing welcome
drink and an orientation of the property. The
bar looks different from what I remember
with swing sets serving as bar stools and a
comfortable lounge on one end.
Perched on a sand dune and nestled
amidst trees right on the beach with
unobstructed views of the sea, walking
up our two-storey villa, one of eight in the
property, is like going up a tree house.
Rightly so because given the elevated
position of our room, we might as well be
staying in one. The rustic structure, too,
blends with the environment as the high roof
is palm thatched and the walls are made
from woven mats. Wooden accents are also
everywhere, from the Swahili-style balcony
chairs to the large intricately carved mirror
above a bed so large it could fit an entire
family. Lying on this bed during high tide,
you can see the water shimmering under
the sun right in front of your balcony. There
is also a loo with an absolutely incredible
view and one could be content to just gaze
at the landscape from there, but alas, there’s
an even better spot downstairs where two
hammocks, set side by side, bring you eye
to eye with the ocean. Bare feet, messy hair,
swimsuits and cocktails at hand, we spend a
bit of time bonding and enjoying the breeze
from here.
It takes a certain kind of romantic to
run a place like this, and should you meet
Shawn and Anna, it will all fall into place.
These two, much like my partner and I, come
from opposite ends of the world - Shawn is
from Hawaii while Anna is from Kenya. The
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 25

WEEKEND AWAY
pair met in Hawaii at a kitesurfing event
and it was love at first sight, quite literally,
as Shawn saved Anna from a serious kite
tangle out at sea. By the time they both got
safely back to shore, they were besotted,
and have been together ever since. Anna
says that all their friends and family raised
their eyebrows as they lived and worked
on opposite sides of the globe, but the two
made the long distance work, spending
all their savings to travel to see each other
whenever they could. Finally, last year,
they decided to put down roots in Lamu,
one of their favourite places, to nurture the
healthy, happy lifestyle that they wanted to
start together. Anna is a health coach and
advanced yoga and meditation teacher
(which they provide at The Cabanas), while
Shawn has been a professional kitesurfer
since he was 12, and has competed around
the world. He retired from competing when
he moved to Lamu as he finally found his
perfect kitesurf playground at The Cabanas
after a worldwide search, a real testament to
the conditions here. He has set up a bespoke
kitesurf school and now the couple gets to
enjoy the sport that brought them together
most days of the year.
We prefer to take our breakfasts at the
Top Deck, which is exactly what the name
suggests, taking turns tucking into breakfast
and swimming the length of the infinity pool
which offers views of the ‘jungle’, cabanas
and sea. This is the kind of spot which
ignites the romance without much effort,
and as long as you’re with a partner, you’re
instantly put under a spell. You will look like
quite the sappy pair taking turns between
marveling at the scenery and getting lost
in each other’s eyes. For lunch and dinner,
chef Njole Zuma is adept at various cuisines
ranging from Italian to continental and
African. He also whips up fantastic vegan
and vegetarian dishes using some of his
favourite ingredients such as seeds, cumin,
coriander, fennel, fenugreek and cardamom.
I love his use of coconuts to elevate the
dishes, accompanied by fried potatoes so
good that it would be a crime to resist- at
least that’s what I tell myself. Succeeding
at working ourselves into a food coma, we
have no choice but to stroll down to the
beach for a massage that sends us right to
sleep. Such a tough life. As if to balance
things out, our plans for a seafood beach
bbq are put off thanks to a bout of rain.
The Cabanas at Kizingoni Beach lend
themselves to a do-nothing-but-relax-andget-pampered
romantic escape. The staff
are ever at your beck and call. The place is
also so secluded that when we set off along
the shoreline for a walk, we only have sand
crabs and birds for company. The villas, too,
are so spread apart that even if there are
other guests, you and your partner will likely
feel like you’re alone on the island. Love
is celebrated here, and Shawn and Anna
love to host proposals, anniversaries and
just couples wanting to escape the rat race
and reconnect with each other. You are very
welcome to relax into the healthy happy nest
that they have created in this corner of Lamu.
www.thecabanaslamu.com
26 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

I’ve always wanted to be
marooned on an island,
Robinson Crusoe style,
albeit with all the haute
style and luxuries of a
chic room with clean linen,
and this would be just the
place to live out those
fantasies
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 27

WEEKEND
AWAY
PHOTOGRAPH: BRIAN SIAMBI
28 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

MEDINA PALMS
Watamu
With its distinct North African and Mediterranean flair
which followed through to the dishes served, this hotel
became a fast favourite. We checked into a chic allwhite
apartment-style villa with two ensuite rooms, a
kitchen, private lounge and balcony overlooking the
pool, an upstairs living room complete with a rooftop
plunge pool on the terrace. Families and honeymooners
lazed away the day by the main pool which stretched
across the length of the hotel, culminating in an infinity
pool overlooking the sea. Choose from 50 units ranging
from cozy one-bedroom apartments to palatial fivebedroom
villas. Meals can be enjoyed at Amandina
Restaurant, or under the moon by the pool, beach or
garden. There’s a fitness centre as well as the rooftop,
open-air Sakina Ocean spa offering full-body massages
using rose quartz crystals, shea and water jets, as well
as a range of deep facials. www.medinapalms.com
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 29

WEEKEND AWAY
CHUI LODGE
Lake Naivasha
The Zwager family originally built Chui
as guest accommodation for Oserian
flower farm, naming it after the area’s
healthy leopard population. There are
eight, well-spaced luxurious cottages each
with its own veranda and views of the Rift
Valley escarpment and the Sanctuary. The
bedrooms have magnificent four poster king
size olive wood beds, roaring log fires, ensuite
bathrooms and unique décor. On site
is a large swimming pool overlooking the
waterhole, and four course candle-lit dinners
under the stars are highly recommended.
www.oserengoniwildlife.com
KOBE SUITE RESORT
Watamu
The exclusive collection of suites here are designed
with both an Italian elegance and authentic Swahili
flair. Garden View suites are tucked in the luscious
gardens and overlook the main swimming pool of
the property, while the highly-sought after sea topclass
suites are sea facing. There are two swimming
pools and a popular bar and restaurant which also
face the sea and a wellness spa to help you relax.
It’s a great base from which to explore the marine
pack and enjoy an array of family-friendly activities
around town. www.kobesuiteresort.com.
ENTIM SIDAI,
Nairobi
This is a serene wellness sanctuary in the heart
of Karen, with a clear view of Ngong Hills.
Accommodation ranges from a junior suite to a
honeymoon suite and luxury villas. One of the
attractions here is the spa which is surrounded by a
wonderful natural forest and lush greenery, with a
skylight to view the birds as they fly past. Some of
their packages this month include a romantic picnic
for two at Ksh 8,600, and couple’s massage plus
dinner for two at Ksh 19,500. www.entimsidai.com
30 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

WEEKEND AWAY
OLEPANGI FARM
Timau
It has five cottages including the impressive
Round House with a bedroom on its upper
floor and an outdoor bathtub. The farm does
all of its own water harvesting and rooms are
solar powered. Each morning, step out onto
the wooden floorboards on the front porch of
your cottage to take in the sheer beauty of the
Lolldaigas. Food is organically grown in their
own garden. The decor was curated over the
years by the owners on their travels, and a
favourite spot is the grass thatched Party House
where bohemian maximalism is at play. Horse
riding is available. Resident rates from Ksh
13,500 on full board. www.olepangifarm.com
DIAMONDS DREAM OF AFRICA
Malindi
Thanks to their all inclusive formula, you will be able to
enjoy your holiday being pampered by the professional
staff at their luxury beachfront property. Here, the
enchanting force of nature blends with the exotic Indo-
Arabic architecture accented by Balinese armchairs to
create a hypnotic charm. Reach out via their website for
their exclusive Month of Love package which includes
a 30 minute couple’s massage, one day use of the
thalassotherapy salt water pools, room service breakfast,
romantic room set up during turn down a romantic dinner
under the stars and more.
www.dreamofafrica.diamondsresorts.com
SASAAB LODGE
Samburu
It is a place of rich natural diversity with an astounding
number of animals including the ‘Samburu Special Five’.
The architecture of Sasaab follows strong Moroccan
design principles, in which African heat is of primary
consideration. Each of the nine rooms is over 100m²
with an enormous open-air bathroom and private
plunge pool. From the veranda, guests can take in the
remarkable views across the Laikipia Plateau toward the
jagged peak of Mount Kenya. Its position on the river
naturally facilitates watching the herds of elephants that
come to bathe. www.thesafaricollection.com
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 31

IF I HAD TO
PICK A SCHOOL,
I WOULD
SEND THEM TO
PEMBROKE
”
www.pembrokehouse.sc.ke

@pembroke_house_school
What do an international rugby player and an emotional intelligence strategist have
in common? The answer is that they both went to Pembroke House School, a small
boarding preparatory school in the Rift Valley, Kenya.
Toby Francombe and Nandi Kegode are two alumni of the 90 year old school, both
from very different backgrounds and with very different jobs and aspirations.
“I don’t think I would be the person I am today, if it weren’t for Pembroke”, Nandi
waxed lyrical about her time at school. Nandi is an emotional intelligence and cultural
strategy consultant with her own business, Hisia Intel Solutions. “By the time I left, I was
more adventurous, with a strong identity of self and a can-do attitude, which made me
more resilient [during the tougher times of her teens and early adulthood]”. Pembroke
allows children to be children – to run around in the mud, make dens, climb trees and
appreciate the natural beauty of the Kenyan countryside – but [it] also helps to give
them confidence and character; don’t ever underestimate what kids can do”, Nandi
said. “We were taught manners and we are able to talk to anyone, of any class or
creed. International schools appreciated that; Pembrokians were renowned for being
reliable team members”.
“Pembrokians have such a strong bond – the Pembroke Spirit – and race or colour has
no place in that. I have had people come up to me recently to say “hi”, who were
five years old when I was in the upper school, asking “Do you remember me?”. The
friendships that you make when you are there are still friendships now- and you pick
up exactly where you left off, no matter how much time has passed… My favourite
memories were in the dorms, sharing tuck, talking after lights out and on the sports field,
with hours dedicated to sports”.
Toby Francombe is an international rugby player and was selected to play the position
of hooker in the 2019 Kenyan Rugby Union team. He is now in Scotland, playing for the
Boroughmuir Bears in Edinburgh. Toby went to board at Pembroke aged six, because
his father went there but also because they lived near the Maasai Mara and there were
no schools in the area. When asked about Pembroke’s strengths, Toby said, “Pembroke
was a caring school – when I first arrived, I was shy and hadn’t really spent time with
lots of other kids. The older kids really looked after the younger ones… The other thing
that I think also helped me was the manners Pembroke taught us – I am grateful for that
as this training has stood me in good stead and gave me the confidence to meet new
people and travel to new places. The opportunities to play sport were also phenomenal
and my passion for rugby was spurred on by the dedication of the coaches there”.
Toby also spoke warmly about the friendships he had made at Pembroke. “Boarding
made for much stronger friendships because we spent every minute of every day
together. There was so much time after school for us to play and do sport and get to
know each other. Everyone looked after everyone else and we had a special bond that
we still have today”.
Tel: 0708 143 600, Email: registrar@pembrokehouse.sc.ke

Elewana
LOISABA
LODO
SPRINGS
A family drives down to Lodo Springs,
Elewana’s latest addition to the wildlife-rich
Loisaba Conservancy in Laikipia.
TEXT AMI DOSHI SHAH
Road-tripping in Kenya can be exhilarating but
also occasionally grueling. Our recent family
expedition to Elewana’s new addition to Loisaba
Conservancy in Laikipia was a perfect example.
With Nairobi behind us, what followed was
three and a half hours of barrelling through
eaten, potholed tarmac and mucky murram,
coupled with momentary stops waiting for herds
of nonchalant cattle and rambunctious goats
to cross the road. Then, an hour and a half of going around in
circles in the conservancy having followed the wrong Google
Map pin. All this, during some of the heaviest rains Kenya
has encountered in decades. Needless to say, by the time we
reached Lodo Springs, tempers were frayed.
We were warmly welcomed by the camp manager who must
have thought we were nuts for deciding to drive, and ushered
down into the property that sits perched atop an escarpment
with breathtaking views of the plains leading to Mt Kenya. Due
34 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

WEEKEND AWAY
can often be found in places of worship.
Nature is the focus.
Loisaba is known to be part of one of
East Africa’s largest elephant corridors and
our game drives in Elewana’s open Land
Rovers accompanied by a dedicated guide
clearly demonstrated that. The elephants
were shy and not used to human contact. On
close approach to a herd of 10 tuskers, the
matriarch flapped her ears and pretended
to charge as an act of warning, protecting
the young calves that were under her care.
It was a heart thumping insight into the
intelligence of these vulnerable creatures.
Shrouded in several layers of shuka
blankets, after sunset we tailed a lone lioness
for 30 minutes culminating in an unsuccessful
hunt of a skittish impala. Other wild game
that the conservancy protects, including
leopards, cheetahs and rare wild dogs, were
much more elusive, hidden in swathes of
towering bushland.
into dishes like freshly baked focaccia with a
soy dipping sauce or a warm and delicately
spiced mushroom laksa soup and vegetable
dumplings. In addition to the gourmet meals,
they also had a separate kids menu and
much to our amusement, chips and spaghetti
were also mainstay during mealtimes for our
fussy younger son. Breakfast and lunch were
an outdoor affair, overlooking an infinity
pool and the plains of Loisaba where a
solitary elephant could be seen in the valley
drinking from the Lodo Spring, a natural
water source that attracts nearby wildlife
and the namesake for the luxury property.
As our time came to an end, the
‘adventure’ that awaited in our journey back
home was at the back of all our minds. We
did however take comfort in two things. First,
that we had experienced the beauty and
majesty of this pocket of Kenya in the most
sublime way as a family. Second, that when
we came back to Lodo Springs...we’d take a
flight!
Dinners were in the cosy main dining
room over candlelight and wine, digging
to its elevation, a consistent breeze carried
the sounds of whistling thorn acacias and
weaver birds. After eight hours in a car with
two kids, finally, silence.
Elewana’s Loisaba Lodo Springs officially
opened in mid-2019 being the third of their
properties (others are Loisaba Tented Camp
and Loisaba Star Beds) in this 57,000 acre
conservancy and ranch. Unlike the other two
hospitality offerings though, this property
was a new build and a massive undertaking
creatively led by architects and spatial
designers Chris Payne (of White Elephant
Trading Co.) and Jan Allen. The focal point
for each of the eight stone-clad bedrooms
is the limitless and unobstructed sight of the
archetypal African plains with a high tented
ceiling evoking the same sense of awe that
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 35

SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE:
LIFE IN THE
CHOCOLATE
ISLANDS
Located deep in the Gulf of Guinea, the twin-island
state of São Tomé and Príncipe (STP) is a jurassic
paradise where the portuguese speaking locals
greet you with a disarming smile and a léve léve
(easygoing) attitude to life. Forged in isolation, today
STP has emerged from its dark history to tell a story.
Maurice Schutgens finds out why you should go.
PHOTOGRAPHS MAURICE SCHUTGENS
Find a secluded beach. Get
down on one knee. Pop the
question. Job done. You’ll
thank me later.
36 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

DISPATCH
Chocolate
In order to understand STP, one has to
understand chocolate (and eating the
chocolate is only part of it). In 1822 the
cocoa bean made its way from Brazil to
the impenetrable shores of STP and thus
the Chocolate Islands were born. In 1913
these isolated African islands became the
world's largest producer of cocoa, supplying
Hershey’s and Cadbury. Fast forward to
present day and while STP has long handed
over its chocolate crown to Ivory Coast, the
island is experiencing a resurgence of sorts
and locals claim that the best quality beans
still come from this tiny volcanic spec in the
Atlantic. Thankfully one can still taste the
deliciously complex and intense flavours
of cocoa that have been perfected by
individuals like Claudio Corallo (an Italian
agronomist who has been celebrated as
the creator of chocolate without bitterness).
Following the journey from the spectacular
cocoa plantations on Príncipe (Roça Terreiro
Velho) to its transformation into a neatly
packaged chocolate bar is a right of
passage on STP. And yes - it's good!
Exploring roças
The roças (plantations) of STP were once
a network of beating hearts, structures
of aristocratic splendour, opulence and
ingenious engineering built on the back of
imported slave labour from Angola, Congo
and further afield. Today the roças are
crumbling facades, but a fading reminder
of former glory and pain, that have been
left to the island to be reclaimed and
forgotten. Some, but not all. Most have been
inhabited by local families, carving out a
simple existence away from the modernity
of life. Visiting the roças is an opportunity
to immerse yourself into the very fabric of
the island and hearing the stories of how
each roça once fit into the history of STP is
as fascinating as it is thought-provoking and
disturbing. Roça Agua Izé, formerly one of
the islands main plantations is a must-see,
as are the well known roças of Sundy and
Belo Monte on Príncipe but it is the less
known roças that lie far off the beaten track
on unmarked overgrown roads like Roça
Ubu Buda and Roça Boa Entrada that are
hauntingly authentic reminders of the past.
Beaches, Rum and Turtles
Ironically it was a Bacardi Rum Commercial,
filmed in 1991 on Príncipe’s now famous
Banana Beach, that briefly put STP on the
map… though it was soon to be forgotten
again. There are few places on the islands
that can be described as crowded, for this
tiny archipelago receives less than 30,000
visitors a year, but Banana Beach with its
sweeping white sand beaches with lapping
azure waters is one of the places that
can get ‘busy’. As the saying goes, “three
families is a crowd”. Further afield there
are many more isolated, photogenic and
unexplored beaches on the islands that
offer seclusion and pure wilderness such as
Praia Boi and Praia Macaco. Some however
offer even more. Praia Jalé, located on the
southernmost tip of São Tomé island, is a
wild coast with golden sands, overhanging
palm trees and large crashing waves
that only truly comes alive at night during
November and March. Under a waning
moon tens of sea turtles heave themselves
up onto the soft sands to nest, making STP
one of West Africa’s most critical habitats for
five species of sea turtles. During our night
on Praia Jalé a large female green sea turtle
dug her nest directly next to our tent. We
watched in silence as she tried to secure a
future for her species.
Hiking Pico Cão Grande
As the low hanging clouds slowly parted
in the far south of São Tomé island, a prehistoric
dark volcanic tower slowly came into
focus, looming large on the horizon, drawing
us near. Erupting from the Jurassic landscape
of giant ferns below, this was Pico Cão
Grande, a phonolite (ancient magma) tube.
This was the Lost World. From the charmingly
sleepy town of São João dos Angolares
we headed for the nearby grounds of
Agripalma (a palm oil concession) and drove
through its maze of muddy rutted roads until
our little suzuki could go no further. We
abandoned our car and started walking
towards our goal until we encountered
Miguel, a plantation worker who knew the
way (or so he claimed). Within one hour we
were hopelessly lost, slipping and sliding
through a bamboo jungle, no path in sight.
Eventually we navigated our way back to the
spire and stood at its base gazing up at its
treacherous sheer cliffs overhead. Without
maps.me we would probably still be lost
somewhere in the forest!
Chasing Waterfalls
Parque Natural Obô de São Tomé,
established in 2006, straddles parts on
both islands of STP and as a result of its
incredible abundance of endemic species, is
recognised as an ecological jewel of global
significance. While catching a fleeting
glimpse of the Congo Grey Parrot (Psittacus
erithacus) with its strikingly red plumage
through the thick canopy was exhilarating
we were on the hunt for something more
stationary...waterfalls! And STP was bursting
at the seams with them. While some are
located right along the road (Cascata São
Nicolau), others require a little more effort.
Cascata Nazaré, hidden away beyond the
village of Ponta Figo (just outside Neves), is
one of them. After recruiting our nine year
old guide, who demanded half payment
in local dobras and half in, would you
believe it, chocolate, we hiked up through a
stunning patch of tropical forest littered with
cocoa plants gone wild and random moss
covered bridges. An hour long hike gave
way to ancient Portuguese built aqueducts
that pitched us into complete darkness only
to emerge at the most spectacular waterfall
on the island. Screaming into the thundering
spray we knew we had found happiness.
The Ultimate Proposal
Find a secluded beach. Get down on one
knee. Pop the question. Job done. You’ll
thank me later.
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 37

SENEGAL
NO LONGER
UNDER THE
RADAR
38 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

ROAD TRIP
Nora Musa brushes up on her
French then spends two weeks
in Senegal, kicking off her trip
in Dakar where she checks
out beaches, cafes, markets,
neighbourhoods, art and more.
Dakar
As I arrived at Blaise Diagne airport, I felt
excited for the two weeks ahead.
For this trip, I was prepared for the fact that
not many people in Senegal speak English
and had therefore tried to brush up on my
very basic French. Fortunately, I found the
Senegalese to be really patient people, and
they appreciated the effort. I was staying in
Mermoz, a middle class residential area. As
we drove along the beautiful Dakar Corniche,
I realised that I was only staying ten minutes
away from it. The Corniche is where the
whole city seemingly converges for open air
circuit training, zumba classes, a run or walk
at sunset.
Breakfast and brunch
As someone who loves to linger over
breakfast and a nice cappuccino, I checked
out cafes and brunch spots online in this city
where new, trendy eateries are constantly
popping up. I headed for Lulu cafe, a
ten minute walk from my Airbnb, passing
older people dressed in brightly coloured
traditional dress. One thing I love about
Africa is the embracing of colour. At Lulu’s
I ordered the breakfast special, and the
food and decor had me sitting there for far
longer than originally planned. As the space
is divided into different sections, it’s also a
place where you could go and work. Other
great breakfast and brunch spots in the
Mamelle and Mermoz area include Melo
cafe and Simoni cafe. Downtown, there
are lots of options for breakfast such as La
Galette and Press Cafe.
Beaches
Being on the western tip of Africa, you won’t
struggle to find beaches in Senegal. The most
well known is Saly on the Petite Côte where
you’ll notice a large French and Belgian
presence, and Cap Skirring in the Southern
region of Casamance. Even in Dakar,
however, you’ll find some beaches, and
these were some of my first stops- places to
unwind and catch up on some reading before
heading into town. One option is Mamelle
beach, a ten minute taxi ride from where I
was staying. If you do a lot of solo travel, taxi
drivers can be a great way to source for local
recommendations, get tips for prices and
practise the local language. This ride was
no different - a fun exchange of elementary
French, Wolof, English and Arabic.
Mamelle beach is small but very
charming, backed by lovely little eateries
and places to get umbrellas or mats to lie on.
When I got there at about 10.30am, it was
just me and three young boys alternating
between playing football and jumping
into the water. As I was about to leave,
the people working in the cafes came and
introduced themselves; new friends made for
my next visit. In the mid to late afternoon,
this place gets busier with more tourists but is
still a nice respite from the city. If you want a
bigger beach, head to the lively Yoff about
30 minutes away and you can learn to surf
there too.
Almadies
This neighbourhood in the north of the city
is where some of the nicest sea-facing cafes,
hotels and night spots are. Some allow you
to go down and join the surfers or get your
feet wet. I met up with a friend at Chez Fatou
where we snacked, caught up and took
some pictures with the incredible sea view
behind us. I spent other sunsets and evenings
in Almadies at Sharkeys, Jet cafe among
others. Many of the places with sea-facing
terraces also had sun loungers so you can
still get work done or read a book while
sunbathing.
DAKAR HAS BECOME
such a creative hub that last year, a specialist artist
residency called Black Rock Senegal was set up to much
fanfare and an opening party that included creatives
from all over Africa, Europe and the US. Set up by
Kehinde Wiley, the artist who was commissioned to
paint a portrait of Barack Obama, it’s an exciting
addition to the local art scene. A browse through
Instagram will help you connect with many creatives
doing great things here.
Medina
I’d read online about the old part of the
city called Medina becoming a hub for
street art, so I reached out to a few local
creatives to accompany me on a walk
to make it a little more informative. One
of the first to respond was a talented
internationally accomplished photographer
and filmmaker called Abdoulaye. He met
me at Soumbédioune beach early in the
morning to watch the fishermen bringing in
their night’s haul, as others went out to sea
to replace them. We talked to them and took
photos of the colourful pirogue boats then
headed off into the Medina with a pit stop
for a street baguette and omelette. While
it is a residential area, many of the locals
have allowed the walls of their homes to be
painted with beautiful murals by local artists.
Islamic influence
Dakar is home to some beautiful mosques
and I decided to visit my favourite, Mosquee
De La Divinite. It’s set down from The
Corniche against the sea, and the dramatic
setting combined with its stunning green and
white colour is truly a feast for the eyes. I
was greeted by the guardian, Mohammed.
His uncle had founded the mosque and was
buried in front. Another delight? The mosque
was only open during prayer time but he
opened the green shutter windows to show
me the inside and told me that men had one
floor downstairs but the women had two
floors. This is something you’ll see across
Senegal, women are actively welcomed to
pray. Dakar may not have as many mosques
as say Cairo or Istanbul but at prayer time,
people will pray anywhere; while waiting to
be served in markets and when waiting for
taxis, if it is time, the prayer mats will come
out, then they continue with their business.
Markets
You cannot visit Dakar without visiting
a market or two. Located downtown,
Sanadaga is so big that taxis will ask you
which part you want to go to. Fabric?
Jewellery? What do you need to buy? I
was determined to get something made
for myself and therefore decided to find a
market insider. I was connected to Ibrahim,
a friendly tailor, salesman and market guide.
He greeted me wearing a bright yellow
thobe (bou-bou) and equally bright smile.
I scurried along behind him as he took me
up the steps of a building in a busy market
intersection, full of different rooms with
fabric. He left me to choose a design and
material I wanted, and this was followed
by a little price negotiation. Sewing is
usually done in a few hours but I returned
the following day to pick them up. Other
than Sandaga, HLM is good for markets,
while on a smaller scale Marche Artisanal
Samboudine is where you can get jewellery
and crafts.
Landmark
The African Renaissance statue is of a
man, woman and child facing the sea,
and is the tallest in Africa. Built in 2010
to commemorate independence, the long
flight of stairs leading up to this statue adds
to its drama and is a prime spot to take
photographs. It is always worth a visit even
just for the fabulous views over Dakar. It was
not without controversy when it was built
due to the cost, the short skirt the woman
is wearing and the fact that it overlooks
the mosque. However, people now seem
to have warmed to it, and whether or not
you visit, you’ll most definitely drive past it
at some point. I actually love the statue...
to me it represents strength, family and
independence.
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 39

AN
ETHIOPIAN
FEAST
Wendy Watta signs up for an immersive
Ethiopian food tour in Addis Ababa
40 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

ETHIOPIA
W
hen I arrive in
Addis Ababa
on January 7th,
I find that it is
Christmas and
the majority of
people are in
a festive mood, a stark contrast to Nairobi
where I left people reporting to work at the
start of a new year. I have just two days
to spare in this city before heading on the
historical northern route, hitting up spots
like Lalibela and the Danakil Depression.
To make the most of my time, I sign up for
a food tour with Go Addis Tours on my
first day, which promises an immersive
introduction to Ethiopian food; exploring
several restaurants for local food and drinks,
all while walking around town to get a feel
for the daily life here.
I meet Genet, a warm and personable
nursery school teacher-turned-guide that
the tour company pairs me up with, at
Esset Restaurant. Walking in there is grass
spread on a patch of ground at the entrance;
I noticed earlier that my taxi driver had
grass on the floor of his car as well. This is
apparently done during celebrations to wish
each other well. Ethiopian jazz plays softly
on the speakers and one wall is covered in
black and white paintings of the country’s
famous actors, musicians and journalists. At
the open kitchen, the staff are dexterously
pouring a four-day fermented teff flour
mixture onto a circular griddle to bake, to
make the staple dish, injera. This comes
served in a sharing platter accompanied
by shiro, a chickpea stew which quickly
becomes a favourite in my time exploring the
country.
Genet tells me the rules for eating from a
shared platter: use one hand, no licking and
no double-dipping. The waitresses, as polite
and pretty as Ethiopian women are said
Then there is tire siga,
which translates to raw
meat, and that’s exactly
what it is. Straight from
the butcher’s knife, the beef
is diced then served on a
plate, accompanied by a
spicy dip...
to be, go around passing complimentary
freshly-made defo dabo bread, their
Christmas gift to patrons.
After this meal, we take a leisurely stroll
to the next spot called Yeshi buna. Buna
is the Ethiopian word for coffee, which
according to legend, was discovered here
by a shepherd called Kaldi who after
noticing that his goat would become more
energetic after nibbling on the bright red
berries of a particular bush, decided to
try them for himself. Today, the beverage
is typically served black, in espresso-style
cups, with sugar on the side. Yeshi Buna
proudly displays its coffee set at one corner,
and the chairs all have hand carved images
that tell stories of some of the 80 tribes in
Ethiopia, such as a lady from the highlands
spinning cotton by hand. The space is
intimate, the chairs low, and the dish, when
it comes served in a colourful woven basket,
is delicious. We accompany this with a St
George beer which is light and easy to enjoy
even for a beer-averse person like me.
The walk to the final stop takes about
15 minutes which I spend taking in Bole,
considered the nicest part of Addis. Old
taxis and tuk tuks painted white and dark
blue line a cobblestoned street while the
women sashay along in their beautiful
handwoven and embroidered traditional
dresses. I marvel at the charming streetside
cafes and bars and say hello to some
people; by my experience, Ethiopians are
really warm and welcoming. Having worked
up enough appetite to eat again, we get
to Yilma, which Genet boldly declares the
best butchery in Addis. Its claims to fame is
that this is where Anthony Bourdain dined
when he visited the city. It’s a family business
started 50 years ago by the patriarch who
started off selling livestock from his own farm
before progressing into this meat-focused
eatery. Fresh delivery is done daily, and
since Orthodox Christians don't eat meat on
Wednesday and Friday, they remain closed
on those days.
The space is large with numerous tables,
two TVs and a live butchery from which
we order our meat. There are two go-to
dishes here. The tibs is fried up with a lot of
onions and is downright delicious; a typical
Kenyan’s dream. Then there is tire siga,
which translates to raw meat, and that’s
exactly what it is. Straight from the butcher’s
knife, the beef is diced then served on a
plate, accompanied by a spicy dip made
with red chill, awaze, mitmita and mustard. I
take a chunk, dip it into the condiment, then
take a bite. It is really soft and you do get
the sense that you’re chewing raw beef...
but maybe that’s just a psychological thing.
Given the number of spices used in the
condiment, it is really bold and flavourful,
but without it, I probably wouldn’t dare to
eat the raw meat.
Given that it is a holiday, we are unable
to get a place that does a coffee ceremony.
After a delightful time showing me around
Addis, introducing me to the food and
answering all my eager questions about
the culture, Genet and I part ways with
a promise to keep in touch. The night is
still young, so I swing by the oldest coffee
house in town, Tomoca, where the coffee
is still brewed in vintage coffee machines.
Thereafter, I am wired enough to go out
dancing...
Email: info@goaddistours.com
LANGUAGE BASICS
Selam: Hello
Ameseginalew: Thank you
NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 41

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NOMAD MAGAZINE 2020 43

IMPALA
ECOLODGE
KISUMU PHOTOGRAPHS WENDY WATTA
44 DISCOVER EXPLORE EXPERIENCE

GREAT HOTELS
The water playfully laps
against the small, wooden
boat rhythmically rocking it
back and forth as if to the
lake’s very own sweet tune.
The sun splashes across
the sky in striking orange
hues as a fish eagle flutters across my
periphery. I am yanked out of my reverie by
the fisherman’s paddle incessantly tapping
against the wood, and as if in response,
a hippo’s head bobs out of the water and
starts inching towards us. I have seen
YouTube videos of hippos attacking boats,
and this canoe is certainly no speedboat;
should it lunge, we’d be done for. My fear is
quickly forgotten when we pass Hippo Point,
now predominantly a hang out center where
a crowd is gathered marvelling at the sunset.
As we inch towards Impala Ecolodge with its
wooden jetty illuminated by the soft orange
glow of lamps lined along its ramp, a place I
have only ever seen from a boat during lake
cruises like this, I can’t believe we’ll finally be
staying there tomorrow!
Kisumu Impala Sanctuary sits barely a
five minute drive from where I spent several
years of my primary school, and yet, in that
time, I recall visiting only once; the memories
are hazy. I like to consider Kisumu my
hometown, but the truth is, every time I return
(once this year, so far) I can’t help but feel
like a stranger. This city is fast developing.
Kisumu waits for no one. We pay our
entrance fees at the gate: Ksh 215 per day
for me, a Kenyan citizen, and $22 for my
companion, a non-resident. We walk...
yes, walk...past zebras and impalas which
are peacefully grazing in the surroundings,
unperturbed by our presence. The lodge sits
at the edge of the sanctuary and it takes a
five minute walk to get there.
There is a long, shaded, wooden ramp
elevated above the ground such that it feels
like you’re walking amidst trees and this
leads us from the reception down to our
tent. There are 12 double tents in total, each
named after luo numbers (ours, for instance,
is “aboro”, meaning “eight”). The structure
is semi-permanent with wooden floorboards
and canvas walls. A large cozy bed above
which hangs a mosquito net sits in the middle
of the main room. Behind it is a small living
area with two armchairs, a perfect nook
for entertaining should you happen to have
friends over. A walk-in closet and changing
area sits to the left, as do the bathrooms.
Right in front of the bed is a large sliding
glass door which reveals a balcony. Here,
there are comfortable wicker chairs to relax
in as you take in the stunning view; birds
flying past, the lake almost coming right up
to your doorstep. On this private balcony
we would spend our evenings drinking wine,
playing some RnB and slow dancing with
a spectacular setting sun as our backdrop.
The park closes at 6:00pm, but since we
were staying at the lodge, our curfew was
extended to 11:00pm, with strict warning
not to roam the grounds at night because the
hippos come out to the land at that time.
Impressive meals are served either in
the eco-friendly makuti-thatched restaurant
which stands next to a pool overlooking the
lake, or on a gazebo right above the water
such that it feels like you’re dining on the
deck of a boat. It is raised on stilts within
the lake but close to the shore. Here, you
can tuck into a three course lunch while
watching the fishermen standing on one
edge of their boats while using long poles
to steer themselves forward in the shallow
water. Lake Victoria unsurprisingly makes
Kisumu synonymous with fish, boat rides and
birdwatching. The locals have broken down
the art of preparing tilapia (because if you
watch how it is handled from the moment
a fisherman traps it in his net to the way a
chef meticulously plates it up for a patron,
then it really is an art) to two options: deep
or wet fried. The fish is traditionally served
with ugali, kachumbari and sukumawiki
or some other indigenous vegetables. Be
sure to order a plate at Impala Ecolodge’s
restaurant.
Our mornings were spent wandering
this serene park where impalas and zebras
are free roaming, but other animals such as
giraffes, an ostrich, two prides of lions which
are kept separately so they don’t fight for the
territory, monkeys, a buffalo, two warthogs,
leopards and more are caged with enough
space to roam.
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