MIUSE: ISSUE 1

Author: Nathan Quesada
Page 128
IS and SHOULD FASHION be POLITICAL?
For many, fashion is one of the greatest forms of
escapism. The ultimate fantasy. It does not get more
magical than watching the layers of tulle on a couture
Giambattista Valli gown float down a Parisian runway.
These imaginative experiences are a much-welcomed
break from reality. A creative breath of fresh air. Yet,
fashion is much more than champagne and sequins.
Fashion is the epitome of politics. As we dive into the
context of the industry’s most notable collections and
fashion houses, the social implications of a garment
become more intricate and complex than the design
itself. Clothing is an outward expression of history
and societal values. Trends capture the zeitgeist of a
period. The cinched waists and lavish silhouettes of
Christian Dior’s “New Look” exemplified the traditional
feminine ideals of the post-World War II era. The
looks’ soft aesthetic and impractical design elements
encompassed the expectations of conventional
gender roles. Yet, revolutionary design evolves with
time. Almost 20 years after the “New Look”, Yves
Saint Laurent released the iconic “Le Smoking Suit”.
The sleek tuxedo jacket and impeccably tailored
trousers embodied feminist ideals that challenged
the separation of social spheres and standards of
femininity. Whether we realise it or not, we subscribe
ourselves to the trends hanging in our closets. Cultural
values are embedded into every fibre of fashion. While
politics are dissected through the historical context of
our favourite legacy brands, present-day designers are
taking a far less subtle approach. Politics have become
a fashion statement and contemporary brands are
making it loud and clear. Activism has become a core
component of the brand identity of designers across
the board.
From social justice to environmental crisis concerns,
brands are using their platforms to amplify controversial
political issues that resonate with them the most.
Yet, much like every other industry, fashion is a
business. This poses the question, when does brand
activism become a money grab? Many times, buzzworthy
topics become a trend. Here one season,
gone the next. Dior’s Spring 2017 “We Should All Be
Feminists” T-shirts retailed at $710. Not only does
the inaccessible price point contradict the slogan
but, consumers are given no indication as to how the
profits from their purchase are being used. This ingenuine
brand messaging is a result of exclusivity and
lack of transparency. On the other hand, brands like
Marc Jacobs have mastered the art of political fashion
statements by putting their money where their mouth
is. Jacob’s has established a recurring partnership with
Miley Cyrus, an outspoken supporter of women’s
rights. Together, they have partnered with Planned
Parenthood to create garments that evoke empowering
pro-choice messages. The first collaboration included
a $50 T-shirt while the newest release is a $175 pink
hoodie that reads “Don’t Fuck With My Freedom”.
The inclusive price point allows people to wear their
beliefs while 100% of profits go to Planned Parenthood.
While Jacobs is a great example, he is only one of
many designers using creativity to start important
conversations. Fashion brands have extensive
platforms that reach most of the general public. If
their influence is used responsibly and authentically,
brands can become essential resources. While politics
have become a major branding component, political
statements must be more than a marketing tool. These
are real problems affecting real people. The fashion
industry’s prominence gives it the ability to amplify
the voices and concerns of the communities it serves.