The Fashion Section Page 97N o 1DIOR:WHITE FEMINISM SELLSDLittle by little, FEMINISM has become MORE VISIBLE and has gained someREPRESENTATION in the MEDIA during the LAST FEW YEARS. To become POLITICAL as well,the HOUSE OF DIOR, under MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI’S direction, has joined this MOVEMENT,but are their statements SINCERE?
Author: Lola GianPage 98Image: Jamie Stoker/GoRunway.comLittle by little, feminism has become more visible andhas gained some representation in the media duringthe last few years. To become political as well, theHouse of Dior, under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s direction,has joined this movement, but are their statementssincere?For her first Dior collection ever, Maria Grazia senttwo models, out of sixty-five, down the runway,both with simple white t-shirts matched with blacktulle skirts. One of the t-shirts said: We should allbe feminists, and the other one: Dio(r)evolution.Everyone was delighted with this collection, statingthat it was clear that the person in charge was nowa woman that refused to stick with the ladylike DNAof the house, and that a new era was starting andbringing the revolution to fashion. However, we havenot seen that so-called revolution yet.It is known that for prestigious brands that have anestablished audience, just like Dior, it is crucial tothink thoroughly what changes they should makein order to please their clients while evolving at thesame time, and intersectional feminism is not a thingto take lightly. It has been almost four years sinceMaria Grazia is the creative director of Dior and hermediocre take on feminism has not changed. Shecontinued delivering tops with recycled quotes thatevoke Girl Power, Sisterhood, and Revolution inmany shows but without genuinely engaging in anymovement through decision-making at the Maison.The atmosphere in her runways amplifies thispoor white feminist discourse. For example, in theautumn/winter 2020 Dior show, neon signs saying:When women strike the world stops. Patriarchy =climate emergency. Consent. Consent. Consent.were all over the venue like it was a mixture oftoday’s newspaper but with no actual content. Butthen, when the show starts, the truth is right in frontof our eyes and we cannot help but wonder, howsincere is Dior regarding these political statementsthat they are trying to sell us?According to Good On You world-leading sourceof trusted brand ratings on ethical and sustainablefashion–, Dior’s overall rating, which includesenvironmental impact, labour conditions, and animalwelfare, is Not Good Enough. “Although it monitorshealth and safety issues with an internal procedure,there is no evidence it ensures payment of a livingwage in its supply chain or that it publishes supplierlists, and it sources its final stage of production fromcountries with extreme risk of labour abuse!” GoodOn You on Dior’s rating, May 2019.We assume that for Dior, feminism and Girl Powersimply do not apply to women who manufacture itsluxury goods, they only apply to the clients that canafford its white t-shirts. In addition, their miserableattempt to include Climate Change in their discoursewas doomed to fail. It takes little research to knowthat Dior’s textile waste has not decreased in the pastfew years and that they still make use of leather andexotic animal skin and hair. We are not against bigbrands taking the initiative of becoming sustainable,and of supporting feminism, but we will not buy fakedesigner statements. Before endorsing sustainability,become sustainable. Before selling Girl Power,empower girls.
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ISSUE 1 S/S 2020MIUSEMiuse Magazine
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The Sustainability SectionTHE EFFEC
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DEA OFULGENCE IND QUALITY - THISORE
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