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eat & drink
SPICY PULLED BEEF
WITH CRISP TORTILLAS
AND PICO DE GALLO
Anthony Bucco
executive chef
Felina, Ridgewood
“people in hospitality spend a minimum of 60
hours a week at work,” says Bucco, who lives with
his wife, Ellen, and three sons, ages 11-15. “When
that gets pulled out from underneath you, it’s hard
to put your finger on your identity.
“I’m not used to being home,” he admits. “It’s a
little scary. I’m trying to fill the hours of my day. I’ve
cut the grass three times, cleaned the garage, and
played a lot of wiffleball with my sons. I’ve got plenty
of projects to keep me busy, but my concern is,
when does the restaurant industry come back?”
Bucco serves on the board of directors of the
New Jersey Restaurant and Hospitality Association.
When we spoke in late April, he said people
were hoping there might be some restricted level of
reopening this summer, June being “optimistic.”
When Felina was open, Bucco would cook dinner
on his days off, but now he’s cooking every night. Of
his spicy pulled beef, he says, “This dish is flavorful,
great for the kids—they love the crunch and salt.”
FRESH PITA
WITH ROASTED
CAULIFLOWER
Ehren Ryan
chef/co-owner
Common Lot, Millburn
Big Fish,
Smaller Ponds
At home, with time on their hands and no
staff to command, chefs adjust to life at the
family stove. Here, seven executive chefs offer
recipes and reflections. By Eric Levin
Illustrations by CHANTAL BENNETT
NOTE: For recipes, see njmonthly.com/chefsathome
the challenge for ryan and his wife, Nadine, “is
keeping a 2-year-old entertained.” That would be
Oskar. “He’s gotten involved with my planting cauliflower”
in the backyard, Ryan says. “When the parks
were open this spring, we spotted ramps coming up.
Oskar wasn’t the biggest help; he was more stepping
on them than picking them with us.”
Like his folks, Oskar is an adventurous eater,
though not yet discriminating. “Anything in arm
range, he’ll taste, then give some to the dog. We
taught him to share, and
he’s taking it literally.
“Under lockdown,
I’ve been cooking with
Oskar in mind. In this
recipe, he loves helping
make the pita. It keeps
him busy, and he loves
seeing the end result,
which helps make him
want to eat it.”
64 JUNE 2020 NJMONTHLY.COM