Selwyn Times: October 14, 2020
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Wednesday <strong>October</strong> <strong>14</strong> <strong>2020</strong> <strong>Selwyn</strong> <strong>Times</strong><br />
Latest Canterbury news at starnews.co.nz<br />
WINE 33<br />
Delightful drops from a hot season<br />
• By Mark Henderson<br />
THE MAJORITY of Central<br />
pinot noirs on the shelves at<br />
the moment are from the 2018<br />
vintage.<br />
This was an exceptionally hot<br />
season from December through<br />
until the beginning of March,<br />
when cooler, rainy conditions<br />
helped moderate the effects of the<br />
summer. It tested the mettle of<br />
the wineries, yet while most of the<br />
2018 wines will not be extremely<br />
long lived, they do offer delightful<br />
drinking now. Alongside those<br />
here today, a slew of late releases,<br />
and a comparative young ’un.<br />
2018 Valli Waitaki<br />
Vineyard Pinot Noir<br />
Price: $69<br />
Rating: Excellent<br />
Fragrant notes of wild herbs<br />
with cooler strawberry and<br />
darker fruits mingling. Sweet<br />
cherry and spicy oak frame the<br />
palate, adding a touch of<br />
lead pencil, showing good<br />
structure in the background.<br />
There’s generosity of fruit<br />
here, a sweetly fruited element<br />
building and good length. This<br />
has drinkability off the bat but<br />
potential too.<br />
www.valliwine.com<br />
2018 Rockburn Central<br />
Otago Pinot Noir<br />
Price: $49.99<br />
Rating: Excellent to<br />
outstanding<br />
Darker fruited expression<br />
offering mint/menthol, oak<br />
spices and savoury nuances. A<br />
depth of flavour that fills the<br />
mouth, supported by fine-grained<br />
tannins, as the sweet fruit mingles<br />
with wild herbs and savoury<br />
notes. Lovely texture, nice<br />
balance and integration gives this<br />
immediate drinkability.<br />
www.rockburn.co.nz<br />
2016 Doctors Flat<br />
Price: $49.99<br />
Rating: Outstanding<br />
Subtlety and elegance<br />
rule, darker fruited, sawn<br />
timber, spices, violets, growing<br />
in the glass with sweet fruits<br />
building. Wonderful intensity<br />
and depth of flavour to the<br />
dry, dusty palate and while<br />
approachable now, the<br />
powerful tannic structure is<br />
built for the future. Ripe but<br />
not sweet, the fruit hangs in the<br />
mouth on the long, dry close.<br />
Superb potential.<br />
www.doctorsflat.co.nz<br />
2016 Domaine Thomson<br />
Surveyor Thomson Central<br />
Otago Pinot Noir<br />
Price: $55<br />
Rating: Very good to<br />
excellent<br />
Talc and potpourri lead,<br />
shifting to mint/herbs, savoury<br />
touches and warm leather.<br />
Flirting with sweet ‘n’ sour<br />
nuances, oak noticeable, with<br />
powerful tannins getting the<br />
salivary juices going, a youthful<br />
gangliness at first. This grows<br />
enormously, an Italianate<br />
tanginess bringing delightful<br />
freshness.<br />
www.domainethomsonwines.<br />
com<br />
2015 Maori Point<br />
Grand Reserve Professor’s<br />
Block Central Otago Pinot<br />
Noir<br />
Price: $69.95<br />
Rating: Excellent<br />
Perfumed nose, licorice,<br />
blueberry, stones, a piquancy<br />
to this with hints of secondary<br />
characters. Deceptive intensity<br />
here, real power aligned with<br />
silkiness, while red currant/red<br />
fruits meld with lavender, leather<br />
and savoury nuances as the<br />
wine builds to a long, dry finish.<br />
Suggestive of some bottle age; in a<br />
lovely now.<br />
www.maoripoint.co.nz<br />
2019 Putangi Central<br />
Otago Pinot Noir<br />
Price: $31<br />
Rating: Very good<br />
Leaps from the glass with<br />
cherry, raspberry char and<br />
lead pencil elements; florality<br />
building. Berryfruit jus, char,<br />
graphite and a tangy ‘‘raspberry<br />
drops’’ character meeting plenty<br />
of grip and chewiness on the<br />
palate. Good flavour intensity, the<br />
structure to the fore in its youth,<br />
best with food for now and with<br />
promise ahead.<br />
www.putangiwines.co.nz<br />
2017 Te Kano Kin Pinot<br />
Noir<br />
Price: $29<br />
Rating: Excellent<br />
Subtle nose at first, yet a<br />
suggestion of volume as the<br />
cherry, mixed berry and herb<br />
notes swell. Firm at first, but<br />
quickly fleshes out, developing<br />
lovely flavour intensity as<br />
savoury nuances add to the<br />
interest. Stylish, good freshness<br />
and well judged structural<br />
backbone make this lovely<br />
drinking now. Nicely done and<br />
good bang for buck.<br />
www.tekanoestate.com<br />
www.bigbrothersbigsisters.org.nz