CosBeauty Magazine #90

SKIN
SKIN AGEING IS A
GRADUAL PROCESS
OVER MANY YEARS.
– THE EARLIER
YOU BEGIN A
QUALITY SKINCARE
ROUTINE, THE
BETTER YOUR
HEAD START ON
AGEING.
glycosaminoglycan or sugar molecule
found in our own bodies and, like
collagen and elastin, declines with
age. The highest amount of hyaluronic
acid in the body is found in the
skin extracellular matrix (a jellylike
material that surrounds your
skin cells).
Hyaluronic acid with a lower
molecular weight penetrates deeper
into the skin, and therefore hydrates
the deeper layers of the skin. A higher
molecular weight stays closer to the
surface (makes visible wrinkles look
immediately better). A product with
a mix of molecular weights is best to
ensure hyaluronic acid is delivered to
all layers of the skin (on the surface for
immediate improvement of lines and
deeper for immediate hydration).
CB: WHY IS THE
CONCENTRATION OF AN
INGREDIENT IMPORTANT?
SM: Every skincare ingredient
has a minimum concentration at
which it will have a proven scientific
effect on the skin. If placed in lesser
concentrations, it will not have enough
of an effect on the skin.
Increased concentrations of
active anti-ageing ingredients can
be effective but they also have
increased side effects. For example,
high concentrations of Vitamin A
compounds are not well tolerated in
some skin types as they cause increased
dryness, skin flaking, irritation and
exfoliation.
Starting with lower concentrations,
or using these types of products a few
times a week, and then working up to
using a higher strength is the best way.
Many skincare products can have
a long list of ingredients that are in a
lower concentration than needed to
be active. They are nominally there
on the package, but not actually doing
anything for the skin. This is why
it is important to check both active
ingredients and their concentrations.
CB: WHAT ARE PEPTIDES
AND HOW DO THEY WORK?
SM: Peptides can be thought of as
micro-proteins or chains of amino acids,
which are the simplest building blocks
of protein. As the skin (ie, collagen and
elastin) is made up largely of proteins,
peptides can target specific aspects of
collagen synthesis and degradation.
The term ‘peptide’ is a broad term for
thousands of different compounds. It
is their specific structure and activity
that determines whether they are
effective or not in anti-ageing. Not
all peptides are created the same and,
again, they need to be in a high enough
concentration to have an effect.
The ways in which peptides can work
are numerous, and include helping
to boost collagen synthesis, inhibit
enzymatic destruction of collagen, and
ensure fibrils of collagen have a uniform
diameter and are regularly spaced.
Skintillation’s Wrinklase® range
contains one of the most powerful
peptides that can be delivered through
the skin to reduce muscle activity, one
of the most important causes of wrinkle
development. By mimicking a native
peptide, it weakens muscle contraction
at the junction of the muscle and nerve
and helps to improve the appearance of
wrinkles.
CB: HOW CAN WE
PREPARE OUR SKIN FOR
THE SUMMER MONTHS?
SM: With warmer weather comes
more sun exposure, especially in
Australia. The impact of sun damage
is cumulative and gets worse as we age