09.12.2020 Views

Auto Detailing News Winter issue

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

DETAIL<br />

DOCTOR<br />

The Facts about<br />

Paint Finishing<br />

Procedures<br />

Ask 10 detailers the best way to detail<br />

a paint finish and you will get 10 different answers.<br />

Bud Abraham is Founder and President Emeritus of DETAIL PLUS Car Appearance Systems, with more than 40 years of<br />

experience in the car care industry as a manufacturer, operator, distributor and consultant. He writes articles and gives<br />

seminars on the subject of auto detailing throughout the automotive industry. He can be reached at buda@detailplus.com.<br />

By Bud Abraham<br />

buda@detailplus.com<br />

After reading a recent article on paint<br />

finishing I decided it was time to take a<br />

stronger stand on paint finish procedures:<br />

Which tools, which pads, and which<br />

chemicals to use.<br />

The Buffing Process<br />

If you have an enamel or lacquer<br />

finish that is heavily oxidized, etched or<br />

scratched and the paint thickness gauge<br />

indicates at least 4 mils of paint, it is safe<br />

to use the high speed buffer with a cutting<br />

pad and a heavy-duty or medium grade<br />

compound. When you use a cutting pad<br />

and a compound you will put swirls and<br />

scratches in the paint finish. A professional<br />

detailer will remove these swirls and<br />

scratches rather than simply fill them. It<br />

is unlikely that the new DAs will remove<br />

heavily oxidation on single-stage paint or<br />

heavily scratched or etched single or twostage<br />

paint systems.<br />

This is truly the difference between<br />

a professional in the detail business, and<br />

a detailer looking for a shortcut. Maybe<br />

filling the swirls and scratches on a dealer<br />

car is OK. but this process has no place<br />

in a detail center providing the service to<br />

retail customers.<br />

How to Remove Swirls<br />

After the paint surface has been<br />

buffed with a high speed rotary buffer,<br />

the only way to remove the resultant<br />

swirls and scratches is to follow this with a<br />

high speed buffer (at lower RPMs), foam<br />

or with 100% lamb’s wool finishing pad,<br />

and a swirl remover (not filler) product.<br />

(The rule is: If you put the swirls or scratches<br />

in with a high speed buffer you’ve got to remove<br />

them with one.)<br />

This is where skill and time play a part<br />

in the paint finishing process. Typically,<br />

when removing swirls and micro-scratches<br />

you move much slower over the paint<br />

finish, paying careful visual attention to<br />

the swirls and scratches you are trying to<br />

remove. This also heats the shine into the<br />

paint finish. Like spit shining vs. brush<br />

shining a pair of shoes.<br />

Using today’s high-tech DAs (Rupes<br />

& Flex and copies of that technology) for<br />

light correction on the first step you can<br />

usually remove slight, if any swirls with<br />

the same DA and a polishing pad.<br />

Waxing or Sealing<br />

The final step is the application of the<br />

wax or paint sealant protection (I am not<br />

mentioning ceramic coatings as a final<br />

protection in this particular discussion because<br />

that is an entirely different situation).<br />

Waxes can come in liquid, creme or<br />

paste form. The cremes and pastes are<br />

best applied by hand, with a hand-held orbital<br />

or with a DA and finishing pad and<br />

removed by hand or the tools mentioned<br />

Sealants are usually in a liquid form<br />

and are best applied and removed as previously<br />

described.<br />

When it comes to hand applying vs.<br />

machine applying, in my opinion, it really<br />

makes no difference in terms of protection<br />

and durability. If you can use the<br />

“Hand Wax” idea as a marketing feature<br />

to the customer, then do it that way.<br />

Buffing Clear Coats?<br />

Like a sheet of plexiglass, or a plastic<br />

eyeglass lens, the clear coat, is subject to<br />

scratching. Also, as discussed, clear coat<br />

paint finishes are susceptible to etching<br />

from acid rain, bird droppings, and insect<br />

residue.<br />

If you encounter a clear coat paint<br />

finish with any one, or more of these<br />

problems you most likely will be required<br />

to use a high speed buffer, cutting pad,<br />

and a light to medium-duty compound.<br />

It is the only way to remove them. Trying<br />

to do it by hand, with an orbital or a<br />

DA will, at best, only fill the irregularity<br />

and not remove it.<br />

After you’ve corrected the problem,<br />

(in some instances the damage will be<br />

removed completely) the next step is to<br />

remove the swirls and scratches by using<br />

a high speed buffer, finishing pad (either<br />

foam or 100% lamb’s wool) or a High-<br />

continued ...<br />

VOL. 5, NO.4 • WINTER 2020 | AUTO DETAILING NEWS | 21

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!