Jewellery World Magazine - August 2021
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AUGUST <strong>2021</strong><br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE
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AUG-21<br />
Follow Us On :
<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
ABN: 82 637 204 454<br />
ISSN: 2207-6751<br />
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />
P: 0431 844 903<br />
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
managing director<br />
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
editor<br />
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
contributing writers<br />
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
Stefan Juengling<br />
Cheryl D Harty<br />
art<br />
design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
advertising sales<br />
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
REGULARS<br />
6 News<br />
14 Palloy's Points<br />
16 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />
18 JAA News<br />
39 Lab-grown Diamond Advice<br />
42 Keeping Skills Alive<br />
44 New Products<br />
50 Directory<br />
FEATURES<br />
22 The Green Scene<br />
Australia's creative craftspeople at the cutting edge<br />
of the ethical jewellery industry<br />
28 Launching into a new season<br />
Now is the time to design and launch your new<br />
collection using new tech and local manufacturers<br />
32 Australian jeweller achieves 100% carbon neutral<br />
Larsen <strong>Jewellery</strong> was the first jewellery brand in<br />
Australia to be certified carbon neutral<br />
22<br />
32<br />
36<br />
DISCLAIMER:<br />
This publication may not be reproduced<br />
in whole or part without the written<br />
permission of the Publisher.<br />
Articles express the opinions of the<br />
authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />
service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />
Publisher’s endorsement.<br />
The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />
or misleading statements that may appear<br />
in this publication.<br />
All information is copyright.<br />
34 Happy birthday to Jade Jewellers<br />
A family-run, regional business turns 21 proving that<br />
determination shines in our industry<br />
38 TAFE NSW supports 'by hand' demand<br />
The institution continues to provide the industry<br />
with skills and opportunities<br />
AUGUST <strong>2021</strong><br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />
FRONT COVER<br />
Ellani Collections<br />
www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />
4<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
(Darling Harbour)<br />
• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)<br />
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU<br />
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU
News<br />
Rio Tinto retains the Argyle Pink<br />
Diamonds brand<br />
Following the closure of the iconic Argyle diamond<br />
mine in November 2020, Rio Tinto has decided that<br />
it will retain the Argyle Pink Diamonds brand within<br />
its portfolio of diamonds assets and will continue to<br />
support market development activities in the coming<br />
years.<br />
Musson cements partnership with De Beers Forevermark<br />
Musson, the only jeweller licensed in Australia to sell iconic Black Label Forevermark<br />
diamonds, has announced the renaming of Forevermark to De Beers Forevermark.<br />
The name change signals a closer association between Forevermark and the<br />
130-year-old De Beers brand, a name synonymous with excellence and expertise in<br />
beautiful, rare and responsibly-sourced diamonds.<br />
“As the only company holding exclusive rights to De Beers Forevermark diamonds<br />
and Black Label diamonds on the east coast of Australia, we’re delighted to deepen<br />
our association with De Beers, a more than 10-year-old relationship” said Musson<br />
managing director, Damien Musson.<br />
“The benefit flows directly to our customers,” says Musson. “A Forevermark diamond<br />
has always represented the highest standards of beauty and responsible sourcing and<br />
now our customers will be able to access further the values and exceptional expertise<br />
that comes with the De Beers name.”<br />
“To be able to align Musson with De Beers can only strengthen our brand and<br />
increase the trust our customers already have in the beauty and quality of our<br />
diamonds, their sustainability and responsible sourcing.” he said.<br />
Royal pearls and beads<br />
The Duchess of Cambridge added some sparkle to watching sport, when she wore<br />
some exquisite yet understated jewellery items while attending Wembley and<br />
Wimbledon.<br />
For her first trip to the tennis, Kate<br />
a chic blue and white skirt with a<br />
blazer, and finished the look with<br />
pearl earrings and a Daniella Draper<br />
pendant, engraved with the initials of<br />
her children.<br />
When she attended Wembley to<br />
watch the final of the postponed 2020<br />
European Championships, she added<br />
a dash of colour to her conservative outfit, wearing red statement earrings. The red<br />
Blaiz teardrop beaded earrings were believed to have been a tribute to the English<br />
team, playing Italy in the finals.<br />
Argyle Pink Diamonds will continue to be available<br />
globally through Rio Tinto’s remaining inventory<br />
and via the active secondary diamond and jewellery<br />
markets.<br />
Built up over 37 years, Argyle Pink Diamonds is an<br />
iconic Australian brand with significant global reach,<br />
providing opportunities for the brand to be sustained<br />
beyond the end of mining.<br />
Rio Tinto remains committed to the diamond industry,<br />
progressing the closure of the Argyle mine, retaining<br />
the Argyle Pink Diamonds brand, managing its<br />
interests in the Diavik mine in Canada and pursuing its<br />
ongoing exploration for another world class diamond<br />
ore body.<br />
Pink diamond found in Botswana<br />
Lucara has announced the recovery of one of the<br />
largest rough pink diamonds on record from the Karowe<br />
Diamond mine in Botswana. The 62.7-carat high<br />
quality fancy pink Type IIa diamond has been named<br />
“Boitumelo” meaning “joy” and is the largest fancy pink<br />
gem recovered in Botswana.<br />
Lucara CEO Eira Thomas<br />
said that the company was<br />
“delighted” with the discovery<br />
of another historic diamond,<br />
and at the continuing<br />
potential discovery of large<br />
coloured diamonds in the<br />
region.<br />
“These remarkable pink<br />
diamonds join a collection of<br />
significant diamond recoveries in <strong>2021</strong> produced from<br />
the EM/PK (s) which forms a key economic driver for the<br />
proposed uncoloured mine at Karowe.”<br />
6<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
News<br />
Alternate industry strategies of<br />
online business<br />
A recently released study by the leading consulting house<br />
McKinsey and Company, estimated that the ecommerce<br />
jewellery market will double in size between 2019 and<br />
2025, attaining a market share 18 to 21 percent of<br />
global fine jewellery sales, or $60 to $80 billion in annual<br />
turnover.<br />
The industry is at an inflection point, and almost certainly<br />
undergoing its most comprehensive transformation in<br />
living memory. And while the process of change has been<br />
inevitable, it has been accelerated considerably by the<br />
COVID-19 pandemic, as companies scrambled to develop<br />
online capacity in order to survive the lockdowns that were<br />
widely imposed at the start of the crisis.<br />
Rough market thrives in Antwerp and outperforms 2019<br />
Figures on the rough diamond trade in Antwerp in the first six months of the year<br />
demonstrate the city is back on track of the pre-pandemic upturn seen in the first<br />
few months of 2020, outperforming 2019 figures on rough trade with double digit<br />
growth. Polished trade, still suffering from the lack of trade shows and the effects<br />
of the pandemic in India, shows encouraging signs of recovering to normal levels.<br />
Antwerp hosted more than 75 diamond tenders in the first six months of the year,<br />
boosted by strong rough prices and the city’s unrivalled critical mass of buyers and<br />
sellers.<br />
“Despite the lingering constraints of the pandemic, with second and third waves<br />
in many places around the world, Antwerp has proven to be a safe haven for<br />
producers to sell their rough, where they can achieve consistent, high value for<br />
their goods,” said Karen Rentmeesters of the Antwerp <strong>World</strong> Diamond Centre.<br />
In H1, Antwerp imported US$5bn worth of rough diamonds, compared to<br />
US$2.7bn in H1 of the pandemic year 2020 and US$4.3bn in 2019, up nearly 15%<br />
y-o-y comparing <strong>2021</strong> with the last “normal” year 2019.<br />
While the rough business is booming, polished trade is lagging behind somewhat.<br />
“Since the outbreak of the pandemic, there have been no trade shows<br />
whatsoever, which traditionally create a lot of movement of polished goods in the<br />
industry. In addition, the devastating third wave in India in the first half of this year<br />
had a major impact on the somewhat slower trend of polished business picking<br />
up throughout the global industry, but the last three months show positive signs,”<br />
said Karen. In April, polished imports in volume in Antwerp equaled 2019 levels,<br />
jumping over the June 2019 figures and a similar trend is noticeable for polished<br />
exports.”<br />
The shift to digital business environments has been<br />
pervasive, permeating all stages of the value chain and<br />
almost all jewellery, gemstone and precious metals sectors.<br />
It is also disruptive, rendering certain business models<br />
obsolete, while providing a range of new opportunities and<br />
capabilities to those who have the capacity and acumen to<br />
thrive according to the new sets of rules.<br />
CIBJO’s July seminar looked at digital strategies and<br />
navigating jewellery’s most promising frontier. A recording<br />
of the seminar is available, along with all recent Season 2<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices seminars, on the CIBJO website.<br />
A third season of the free CIBJO seminars will return in<br />
September.<br />
The Golden Lung Necklace<br />
A giant gold necklace worn by model Bella Hadid has<br />
created a sensation at the Cannes film festival.<br />
Hadid’s haute couture gown by<br />
Schiaparelli was cut low and wide<br />
to expose her bare chest. Her<br />
modesty was preserved by the<br />
elaborate gilded brass necklace,<br />
also from Schiaparelli, which was<br />
shaped like a pair of human lungs<br />
suspended from a heavy chain<br />
around her neck.<br />
Hadid’s accessories included a Phoenix ring from Chopard’s<br />
Red Carpet Collection and a pair of 18 carat rose gold<br />
Chopard earrings featuring 24.97-carats of rubies and<br />
diamonds.<br />
8<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
ENTRIES<br />
NOW<br />
INVITED<br />
Public Tender No. 2 November <strong>2021</strong><br />
The Fitzpatrick Pink Sold for A$2.2million a new<br />
<strong>World</strong> Auction Record for any Argyle diamond.<br />
Refer your client’s fancy coloured diamond to our<br />
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We collect and deliver from and to the trade free<br />
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See our sale results at yourdiamonds.com<br />
C ASH OFFER TO<br />
T H E T R A D E<br />
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News<br />
Has Tiffany gone yellow?<br />
The distinctive robin egg shade of blue, known<br />
colloquially as Tiffany Blue, has been synonymous with<br />
the Tiffany & Co brand since the company’s inception in<br />
1837. The Tiffany Blue Box became one of the greatest<br />
marketing success stories, as it continues to be coveted<br />
as much as the jewellery item inside the box.<br />
In January this year, Tiffany & Co was acquired by LVMH,<br />
the world’s leading luxury products group, and on April<br />
1, #TiffanyYellow was announced. This daring switch<br />
to lemon yellow is a strategy to appeal to younger<br />
generations, and Tiffany Yellow will be featured in select<br />
stores around the globe.<br />
Alrosa introduces nanomarking technology to trace diamonds<br />
Alrosa, Russian miner and the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds by<br />
carats, has introduced a ground-breaking diamond-tracing technology using<br />
non-invasive laser marking. Unlike traditional laser engraving, this laser marking<br />
cannot be destroyed or polished off. It distinguishes Alrosa’s diamonds from<br />
others, including lab-grown, and allows them to be uniquely identified, providing<br />
detailed information about the diamonds’ origins.<br />
The bold shade does have a historical link to Tiffany &<br />
Co’s history, as founder Charles Lewis Tiffany purchased<br />
the 130-carat Tiffany Yellow Diamond, which is currently<br />
displayed in the Beverly Hills store.<br />
Consumer surveys in the key diamond markets of the United States and China<br />
indicate that diamond tracing is an important factor when making purchases.<br />
Tracing involves registering all stages of a diamond’s life from the mine to the<br />
jewellery store to guarantee its origin.<br />
Unlike other tracing methods which are based on keeping a digital copy of the<br />
diamond, Alrosa’s physical nanomarking allows the stone to be identified with 100<br />
percent accuracy. It also differs from other engraving technologies which mark<br />
closer to the surface of the diamond. The laser nanomark is imprinted inside<br />
the crystal lattice, across the atomic structure of the entire diamond, making<br />
it invisible without a scanner. Diamonds with such nanomarkings have been<br />
successfully certified by the GIA, the industry’s biggest certification centre.<br />
The mark is a three-dimensional code linked to the Alrosa Provenance platform. It<br />
offers in-depth information about the diamond's origin and characteristics, as well<br />
as a unique identification number, photo, video and details about how it has been<br />
cut. Scientists believe that, as the technology evolves, it is likely to become an<br />
important way of embedding large amounts of data within the diamond, including<br />
media files, images and music.<br />
WFDB starts vaccine fund for India<br />
The <strong>World</strong> Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB)<br />
has started a drive to raise funds to help India in its<br />
fight against COVID-19 with the aim to provide free<br />
vaccinations to diamond workers in India.<br />
The program will vaccinate 5,000 diamond cutters in its<br />
first stage.<br />
Diamond Aid, the program led by the WFDB, has raised<br />
thousands of dollars from individual and industry<br />
organisations.<br />
At the time of printing, India was averaging 42,000 new<br />
cases per day with 6.3% of the population fully vaccinated<br />
against COVID-19.<br />
10<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
A L L O Y S<br />
P R O M<br />
I S E<br />
P<br />
P<br />
R<br />
I C E<br />
B E A T<br />
G U A R A N T E E
PALLOYS POINTS<br />
Chris Botha,<br />
Operations Manager, <strong>Jewellery</strong> Division<br />
Palloys<br />
‘THINKING AND TINKERING’<br />
AT THE HEART OF INNOVATION<br />
Think like your clients.<br />
Palloys announced the introduction of<br />
their new Innovation Division a few<br />
short weeks ago, and already there is<br />
excitement in the air.<br />
Some may be wondering why Palloys needs a<br />
dedicated research and development arm. The<br />
industry has progressed significantly in recent<br />
years, what could there be left to create?<br />
Palloys believes that failure to innovate is<br />
failure to prepare for the future.<br />
This new department will serve four key<br />
purposes: to develop market leading<br />
technology solutions for our customers,<br />
to introduce new and innovative products<br />
and services to the Australian market, to<br />
improve the quality and consistency of our<br />
manufacturing (by upgrading equipment,<br />
facilities and process improvement), and to<br />
streamline processes to reduce turnaround<br />
times and minimise costs, with savings in time<br />
and money benefitting you, our clients.<br />
The goal is for our new Innovation Division<br />
to ‘plug in’ to all Palloys’ services including<br />
fabricated metals, findings, design, print,<br />
casting, refining, diamonds and finishing, and<br />
ensure our clients are getting access to the<br />
best products in the industry.<br />
The industry has already incorporated<br />
technology and has linked old processes with<br />
new.<br />
Now is the time to engage with clients to meet<br />
their needs and take those learnings to the<br />
entire industry. We want to reverse engineer<br />
what the sector needs, so to speak. Look at<br />
what the tools and manufacturing arm now<br />
has and what they may need in the future.<br />
We want to employ this insight we gain as a<br />
key supplier in the Australian market while<br />
listening to our clients. This way we help two<br />
segments at once.<br />
Internally our processes become more efficient<br />
with our clients receiving a better quality<br />
product. Essentially, we power up our tools<br />
within, so we can solve problems on both<br />
sides of the value chain.<br />
What we’re saying is that here at Palloys<br />
we are prepared to back emerging market<br />
demand from our clients' requests. We will<br />
push to deliver a better final product which<br />
will help guide our future processes.<br />
Think like your clients<br />
While large chunks of our business are looking<br />
at improving efficiencies across the supply<br />
chain, a very small part will the ‘thinking and<br />
tinkering’.<br />
The last mile<br />
Arguably our Innovation Division is about<br />
trying to see what “the last mile” looks like.<br />
14<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Exclusive Awareness Necklace<br />
Proudly supporting National Breast Cancer Foundation<br />
Just because something has always been done that way, doesn’t<br />
mean it’s the only way to do it.<br />
Our Innovation Division may be able to identify better ways of doing<br />
things. These are the easy wins.<br />
The longer aspect – and arguably more risky aspect –is the cost of<br />
long term innovation.<br />
IP500NSS-RGP<br />
Ikecho Basket Collection<br />
Is there a new product that does not exist that should exist, and can<br />
we reasonably expect a customer to buy that? That can be a risk.<br />
You can go out<br />
and spend a lot of<br />
money on hope and<br />
a dream that you've<br />
built the thing<br />
that everybody is<br />
going to want…<br />
and it turns out<br />
the market has no<br />
interest in the idea.<br />
Therefore, we must analyse the sector holistically.<br />
This can be a trap for anyone in innovation. Just because you want it<br />
doesn’t mean a client will.<br />
IP500-9YGD-1<br />
IP500NSS-W<br />
Nonetheless I’m very excited to be heading up this department. We<br />
here at Palloys have spent years asking ‘what if’ and ‘can we’, yet<br />
we haven’t had the dedicated resources to execute all our ideas and<br />
proposed methodologies.<br />
All smart companies understand that innovation is critical to progress.<br />
Palloys is thrilled to be at the forefront to help drive the industry<br />
forward.<br />
IP500NSS-WS<br />
LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY<br />
www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />
Tel: (02) 9266 0636
WHEN DO YOU STOP<br />
SPENDING MONEY ON<br />
A LOST CAUSE?<br />
Without doubt, one of the hardest things to do is admit failure.<br />
In business, we are constantly looking for the next great product,<br />
idea, software, employee, equipment, and anything else that will<br />
help grow our business.<br />
Sometimes you’re lucky. A good example<br />
was those retailers who introduced<br />
Pandora into their stores in early 2000.<br />
They rode its wave of success and some still<br />
do so today. Some might consider themselves<br />
as lucky and some had previous experience<br />
to identify a winning formulae. The majority<br />
just watched what the early adopters did and<br />
followed.<br />
I discussed the concept of taking risks and first<br />
mover advantage with a colleague, however<br />
I could see that they couldn’t really relate. At<br />
first I struggled to understand why.<br />
Then it dawned on me. They don’t look to<br />
change anything around them. They don’t like<br />
change and they don’t really look to improve,<br />
other than some small things that are forced<br />
upon them (like a QR code). Business to them<br />
comes and goes. Why get a new piece of<br />
software? It just means you need to learn how<br />
to use it. If they do bring on a new product, it’s<br />
probably because it has been in the market for<br />
a year or two and safe enough to try it now.<br />
This isn’t such a bad approach. It’s safe<br />
and suits people who are risk averse. A<br />
smart businessperson needs to know their<br />
limitations. Perhaps they’re just sick and tired<br />
of spending money on lost causes, so they just<br />
go with the tried and tested.<br />
I don’t criticise this approach. I respect that<br />
not everyone enjoys taking risks.<br />
I do (surprise, surprise).<br />
I personally feel that if I’m not constantly<br />
looking at ways to improve my business and<br />
looking to see what other industries are<br />
doing that I can use in my business, I’m falling<br />
behind.<br />
So is there a formulae to know when to stop<br />
spending money on a lost cause and more<br />
importantly, identifying a lost cause before we<br />
pour money down the drain?<br />
Here are some simple useful tools you might<br />
want to think about.<br />
Let’s use an example of buying some new<br />
software.<br />
I know this sounds obvious, but I strongly<br />
recommend that you write down a list of what<br />
it is that you want this software to do for you.<br />
What gains do you hope to achieve? How<br />
long do you think it will take you to learn it,<br />
or pull out the key benefits? By this I mean,<br />
set a clear date as to when realistically you<br />
are confident that you will get a good handle<br />
on the software and be able to measure its<br />
success.<br />
Just like any new product you bring to your<br />
business, setting a goal and a timeline to<br />
achieve it is so important, and share it with<br />
others to keep you honest.<br />
In our business, we are forever examining<br />
new types of software that we can integrate<br />
into what we do. It is also not uncommon in<br />
today’s world that before you make any major<br />
investment, that you ask the vendor for a<br />
proof of concept. This would mean that they<br />
would help you take a sample of data, analyse<br />
it for you and give you some insights into your<br />
business.<br />
Who will learn to use it in the business? It<br />
must be more than one person. If it’s you, the<br />
owner, you need a strong backup person.<br />
16<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
DDCA NEWS<br />
Rami Baron<br />
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />
rami@ddca.org.au<br />
It’s too easy to spend the money with the best<br />
of intentions and convince yourself that the<br />
reason why you haven’t executed the project<br />
in a reasonable timeline is because you were<br />
busy with other things. That’s normally a<br />
cop-out.<br />
It’s hard to make changes. It’s harder to be<br />
accountable, especially to yourself. It’s even<br />
harder to admit you have made a mistake and<br />
it wasn’t a good investment.<br />
There is a time when you literally need to cut<br />
the cord and admit openly that it was mistake<br />
and write off the expense.<br />
Last year, we invested in developing a<br />
new piece of software which incorporated<br />
AI. The people behind it were extremely<br />
accomplished and experienced. We had a<br />
clear timeline, we had our other programmers<br />
participate in the integration, and twice<br />
we revised the delivery date. That’s still<br />
acceptable if things are moving forward.<br />
On the day we were given the run through, it<br />
was clear that the software could not deliver<br />
the results. It was suggested to me that we<br />
should look to see what we could salvage,<br />
because we had made a considerable financial<br />
investment. My response - “the only thing we<br />
salvage is the experience of what not to do<br />
next time”. We tried, we had clear objectives,<br />
we had clear timelines and it failed.<br />
The question we need to ask ourselves is<br />
that when we embark on a new project or<br />
employ a new person, whom we have spent<br />
a considerable amount of time and money<br />
training, at what point do we admit failure or<br />
that they are not working out.<br />
Employing new people, is an incredibly<br />
expensive process. Not only financially, but<br />
the time it takes for everyone to help train this<br />
person. What do your current employment<br />
contracts say? Three months or six months<br />
trial? I personally think that if you can’t be<br />
sure in three months that the person is right,<br />
you’re wasting your time.<br />
There needs to be some sort of deliverables<br />
or skills that the person is displaying that gives<br />
you confidence that they are a good fit within<br />
your company.<br />
The biggest problem we have is that often<br />
we like someone, but that doesn’t mean that<br />
they are the right person for the job. Next<br />
time you employ someone, think about setting<br />
them three goals that are measurable within<br />
the three-month timeframe. They need to be<br />
clear goals, so if it doesn’t work out it’s not a<br />
personal attack, but based on black-and-white<br />
key performance indicators.<br />
Running a business isn’t easy, otherwise<br />
everyone would do it. We have finite<br />
resources of time and money. Sometimes<br />
you need to be hard and more importantly,<br />
honest. Especially with yourself.<br />
Developing the business skills of knowing<br />
when to stop spending money on a lost cause<br />
could well be the difference between staying<br />
in business and not.<br />
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 17
PRESIDENT'S<br />
MESSAGE<br />
Jo Tory<br />
At the time of writing this message Greater Sydney is in the midst<br />
of the strictest lockdown this state has experienced.<br />
We all know how disruptive and<br />
confusing it can be – how and<br />
where we work, what is essential,<br />
how to stay in touch with our customers.<br />
Needless to say it makes tough trading times<br />
even tougher.<br />
With such uncertainty and the fact that<br />
situations can change overnight, it is so<br />
hard to plan. It is precisely because of these<br />
unpredictable times that the JAA has needed<br />
to postpone the biennial Awards Program that<br />
was due to be judged in <strong>August</strong>.<br />
Entries are now due by the 9 November,<br />
which will be welcome news to some of the<br />
entrants, giving them more time to work<br />
on their fabulous creations. It is always so<br />
fascinating to see the inherent ingenuity<br />
and skill in the pieces that are entered, and<br />
the diversity of design and approach is so<br />
refreshing!<br />
The winners of the Awards will be announced<br />
at the JAA 90th birthday and Awards soiree<br />
on the 6 February in Melbourne. This will be<br />
held in the Evergreen Room at the Crown,<br />
conveniently at the same time as the <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Industry Fair in Melbourne.<br />
The inaugural <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Summit<br />
was held on 9th and 10th July in Adelaide<br />
and was the first face to face event in such a<br />
long time. Due to the snap border closures, it<br />
was unfortunately only visitors from SA and<br />
Victoria that could attend. However, even<br />
though thus restricted it is very refreshing to<br />
know that the Summit went ahead and was a<br />
very positive success. It is the first of its kind<br />
and takes a very holistic approach, covering<br />
many areas of the industry. I am sure there<br />
will be many more to come. Some of the<br />
workshops will be available to view on the<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Network Platform shortly.<br />
Soon we will be sending out our annual<br />
members’ survey and I would encourage as<br />
many of you as possible to participate. It is<br />
in this way that the JAA learns what are the<br />
needs of the industry, what suggestions you<br />
have and how the industry is changing. This<br />
data very much helps us to know what is<br />
needed and how to support you as an industry<br />
member.<br />
The JAA would love to receive some<br />
expressions of interest from volunteers who<br />
would like to participate in the JAA State<br />
Committees. It is always beneficial to get<br />
together with others from the same industry,<br />
to discuss and exchange ideas, to learn and<br />
improve, to share information. Please let<br />
us know if you would like to be part of this<br />
initiative and we can help with ideas for<br />
events (no lockdowns permitting!)<br />
If you are interested, please email Megan at<br />
info@jaa.com.au<br />
All the best to everyone and stay safe.<br />
18<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />
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By Stefan Juengling<br />
Creative craftspeople at the<br />
cutting edge of the green scene:<br />
AUSTRALIA’S ETHICAL JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
While some might consider the Australian jewellery industry as lagging behind other industries in<br />
terms of environmental, ethical and sustainable practices, there are some trailblazers setting the<br />
standard for others to follow. We spoke to some of them here to get their take on how Australia’s<br />
jewellery industry is progressing when it comes to love for jewellery, people and the planet.<br />
Are blood diamonds truly a thing<br />
of the past?<br />
The 2006 blockbuster film Blood Diamond<br />
gave wide exposure to a problem long known<br />
in the jewellery industry: that the diamond<br />
mining industry is harmful to developing<br />
nations and third-world diamond miners. In<br />
2003, the Kimberley Process was implemented<br />
which sets out requirements for controlling<br />
rough diamonds and trade, and effectively<br />
prevents ‘conflict diamonds’ from entering the<br />
mainstream rough diamond market. 18 years<br />
after the implementation, our contributors<br />
had mixed responses as to how the ethical<br />
diamond scene has progressed since then.<br />
Utopian Creations is an Adelaide-based ethical<br />
bespoke jeweller operating since 2005, and<br />
director Ben Manning said the Kimberley<br />
Process was successful in the specific goal of<br />
preventing the sale of diamonds to fund militia<br />
violence, but that’s all.<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />
“It can’t stop governments from selling<br />
diamonds to fund violence (such as that which<br />
occurred in Zimbabwe by Robert Mugabe), it<br />
doesn’t stop environmental damage or all the<br />
other social impacts that can happen from<br />
diamond mining,” he said.<br />
“The Kimberley Process was not set up to<br />
determine the ethical nature of a diamond<br />
and it does not serve that purpose.”<br />
Ben praised the fact that the mined diamond<br />
industry has changed for the better over<br />
the past 20 years, with great advances in<br />
environmental stewardship in some countries<br />
along with co-operation with indigenous<br />
groups.<br />
“However some parts of the world are still<br />
languishing with child/forced labour in both<br />
the mining and cutting industries.<br />
“Improved traceability and guidance by<br />
industry bodies, public, private and NGO's will<br />
help greatly into the future.”<br />
Also founded in 2005, Inspira Diamonds is a<br />
Perth-based wholesale diamond distributor<br />
which provides a platform for diamond goods<br />
with sound provenance. Company director<br />
Steve McClelland and director of marketing<br />
Charmaine Thane both said that the ethical<br />
diamond industry had progressed significantly<br />
since the company’s founding, and thanks to<br />
ethical diamond brands such as theirs driving<br />
change from the supply end of the chain.<br />
“The raising of awareness in the ‘ethical<br />
gem’ community and driven by consumer<br />
consciousness has also assisted considerably,”<br />
they said.<br />
They also pointed to Argyle’s closure which<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />
Inspira Diamonds<br />
22<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
leaves open<br />
the question<br />
as to the next<br />
major source<br />
of ethical<br />
diamonds to the<br />
international<br />
jewellery<br />
community.<br />
Benn Harvey-Walker from online-only<br />
Queensland-based ethical jewellery brand<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia echoed Ben<br />
Manning’s message about the Kimberley<br />
Process failing to be a panacea.<br />
“Is the problem of blood diamonds behind us?<br />
It’s probably fair to say it’s largely in remission,<br />
but there are no guarantees the problem<br />
won’t remerge given the right (or wrong)<br />
circumstances reappearing in diamond rich,<br />
politically unstable developing nations,” he<br />
said.<br />
“The ethical diamond<br />
industry has made some<br />
significant inroads into<br />
improving transparency<br />
and raising public<br />
awareness, which is undoubtedly a good<br />
thing.”<br />
Inspira Diamonds<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
Sydney-based founder/jeweller Zoe Pook<br />
of her eponymous jewellery brand agreed<br />
that the Kimberley Process has its flaws, one<br />
notable flaw in the Process certification being<br />
the Marange Diamonds inclusion.<br />
“When Mugabe took over the Marange<br />
diamond fields in Zimbabwe in 2008,<br />
hundreds of people were killed but they were<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
still included in the certification process,” she<br />
said.<br />
“As the Kimberley Process focuses solely on<br />
distribution and sales it tends to turn a blind<br />
eye to human rights and worker exploitation.”<br />
Lab grown diamonds’ place in the<br />
ethical scene<br />
Lab grown/lab created diamonds (LGD) have<br />
been the new kid on the block and has seen<br />
impressive growth in recent years, with even<br />
claims of being a more ethical choice than its<br />
natural counterpart.<br />
Steve and Charmaine’s personal opinions are<br />
that LGDs are a convenient alternative and just<br />
that.<br />
“Primarily due to the fact that there are no<br />
new diamond sources of the magnitude of<br />
Argyle, Diavik etc,” they said.<br />
However they both levelled criticism at LGDs’<br />
high energy costs and questionable economic<br />
value.<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
“Not only has their energy usage been<br />
brought to question, they provide no<br />
economic value to the industry in terms of<br />
royalties to governments, employment, or any<br />
kind of beneficiation to the people, other than<br />
to the manufacturer itself!” they said.<br />
“(Whereas) when a diamond goes from<br />
rough values to jewellery value through the<br />
value chain, there are numerous participants<br />
and commercial stimulation for multiple<br />
economies, not one manufacturer.”<br />
Zoe said LGDs are conflict-free, but conceded<br />
that nothing in the diamond industry is totally<br />
ethically clean or sustainably produced.<br />
“However, there are ways to make the best<br />
choice you can for your client,” she said.<br />
“I inform my clients about everything I know<br />
(about LGDs).”<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
Zoe Pook acquires their LGDs from The<br />
Diamond Foundry, who in Zoe’s opinion, are<br />
doing their best with regard to sustainable<br />
goals.<br />
The place LGDs will play in ethical jewellery<br />
is completely up to the growers and miners<br />
themselves, according to Ben.<br />
“In some cases LGDs would have a far lower<br />
environmental impact than mined diamonds,<br />
however in other cases it would be the mined<br />
diamonds that would have a lower impact,”<br />
he said.<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 23
“The problem for jewellers and consumers<br />
is that most diamonds whether mined or<br />
lab-grown don’t come with information about<br />
origin… without this it’s very hard to make a<br />
claim that one or the other is better for our<br />
planet and communities.”<br />
Ben also praised Diamond Foundry who play a<br />
major role in the eco-conscious LGD scene.<br />
For Benn at Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia, LGDs<br />
are an accepted part of the ethical and<br />
mainstream jewellery markets, and also<br />
ethically sound for the simple fact that LGDs<br />
aren’t mined.<br />
“That is, the environmental damage (not just<br />
carbon emissions) from mining weigh more<br />
heavily than anything else,” he said.<br />
Benn acknowledged LGDs’ large carbon<br />
footprint and said for this reason there are<br />
good and not-so-good producers.<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
“Our preferred suppliers use renewable<br />
energy in the manufacture and cutting of their<br />
diamonds, so we get the best of both worlds.”<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
Precious<br />
metals of<br />
provenance<br />
With initiatives like<br />
Fair Trade Gold,<br />
Fairmined Gold<br />
and Single Mine<br />
Origin (SMO) Gold, it would seem gold is<br />
much further ahead than diamonds in terms<br />
of traceability, ethical mining and trade, with<br />
seemingly far more options in the market for<br />
ethical gold.<br />
Inspira Diamonds<br />
Benn said that Fair Trade, Fairmined and<br />
SMO gold purveyors have generally improved<br />
traceability by isolating their supply chains<br />
from mainstream markets.<br />
“Typically a reseller will need to be licenced by<br />
the marketing body before they can promote<br />
themselves as a user/supplier of the product,”<br />
he said.<br />
“In this way, Fairmined, Fair Trade or SMO gold<br />
can be traced back to the mine or mines it<br />
originated from.”<br />
He said that marketing bodies such as<br />
fairmined.org that aggregate their gold supply<br />
from various certified mining operations<br />
to ensure miners are relatively well paid,<br />
their working<br />
conditions are<br />
relatively safe,<br />
the mining<br />
operations are as<br />
environmentally<br />
conscientious<br />
as they can<br />
Chemgold<br />
be, and their<br />
communities are well supported.<br />
“To this extent, Fair Trade/Fairmined gold<br />
represents a responsible sourcing option.”<br />
Chemgold is a Sydney-based precious metal<br />
supplier, jewellery service business and a<br />
member of the Responsible <strong>Jewellery</strong> Council<br />
operating for more than 30 years. Director<br />
Darren Sher said that their business only uses<br />
precious metals mined with an eco-friendly<br />
approach.<br />
“Protecting human rights and upholding our<br />
social responsibility<br />
are also key factors in<br />
our manufacturing<br />
process,” he said.<br />
Their supply chain<br />
policy mandates<br />
that precious<br />
metals supplied from<br />
Chemgold are not acquired through human<br />
rights violations such as child labour or<br />
slavery, do not serve or support criminal or<br />
terrorist activities such as money laundering,<br />
and were not<br />
extracted or<br />
processed in<br />
ways which<br />
destroy the<br />
earth’s surface<br />
or harms the<br />
environment.<br />
Chemgold<br />
“We demand<br />
corresponding<br />
evidence from our suppliers and actively<br />
support them in implementing these values in<br />
their supply chain,” Darren said.<br />
For Zoe, Fair Trade, Fairmined and SMO gold<br />
are the only certifications which guarantee<br />
the gold’s origin and make an actual difference<br />
to the amount of artisanal gold miners in<br />
the industry, where<br />
health and safety<br />
conditions are poor<br />
and corruption is rife.<br />
“I could buy<br />
‘Australian Gold’ but<br />
who is that helping?<br />
Rich mine owners,<br />
that’s who. It’s not an<br />
‘ethical’ choice,” she<br />
said.<br />
Chemgold<br />
Ben Manning said<br />
that Fair Trade,<br />
Fairmined and SMO<br />
gold has shone a small spotlight on the issues<br />
and shown what’s possible forresponsible gold<br />
mining and traceability. However, he doesn’t<br />
believe that it has yet changed the enormous<br />
problems with Artisanal and Small Scale gold<br />
Mining (ASM) around the world.<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />
24<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
“In most cases ASM is far worse for the environment and communities<br />
than gemstone mining... the environmental impacts can be devastating<br />
both locally and internationally from rainforest clearing to the rising<br />
amount of mercury in our seas,” he said.<br />
“The processes laid down by Fair Trade and Fairmined gold should be<br />
a blueprint for the industry to follow and for governments around the<br />
world to try to implement before more land is destroyed.”<br />
Sustainability all starts small<br />
Chemgold<br />
The brands we spoke to are not just sourcing ethical gold, diamonds and<br />
gems, they have also implemented some environmentally-friendly and<br />
sustainable in-house processes into their businesses, and invested in<br />
philanthropic programs to make real change on the ground.<br />
Ben said Utopian Creations was founded as a sustainably-focused<br />
jeweller, which meant that they looked at each input, output and<br />
process carefully and assessed ways to reduce any negative impacts<br />
as far as possible, or in some cases eliminating some altogether.<br />
As such, they’ve used 100% green power since the company’s<br />
inception; in the past they used a combination of recycled precious<br />
metals and Fairtrade metals, whereas now they are transitioning to<br />
Australian gold.<br />
“Our gems and diamonds are predominantly Australian, around<br />
95%,” Ben said.<br />
“In our workshop we use a plant-based polishing compound, make<br />
our own polishing buffs from certified organic cotton and reusable<br />
spindles, and we use citric acid pickle.<br />
“Even our packaging is<br />
carefully considered, our<br />
jewellery boxes are made<br />
from certified Australian<br />
timbers and our outer<br />
packaging is all made from<br />
100% recycled card printed<br />
with vegetable inks.”<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia
Darren said that Chemgold has thorough processes in place to<br />
efficiently produce gold with minimal waste. In addition, they<br />
have taken every measure to protect its staff and the environment<br />
through their casting process by importing state-of-the-art German<br />
and Japanese kilns which are built into an exhaust system with after<br />
burners which makes possible complete non-smell, non-pollution<br />
furnaces. Their slurry waste from investing and casting is filtered so<br />
that none of it ends up in the sewerage system and is collected yearly<br />
by a specialised environmentally friendly company.<br />
At Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia, Benn said they plant two trees for every<br />
jewellery piece they make through working with Carbon Positive<br />
Australia. In addition, they have a sponsor relationship with an<br />
international development non-profit called Pact which works on the<br />
ground in nearly 40 countries to end poverty and marginalisation.<br />
“We chose Pact because they support artisanal miners in developing<br />
nations, particularly in the coloured<br />
gemstone space – an important<br />
subset of the fine jewellery<br />
industry,” he said.<br />
“In particular, we sponsor their<br />
Mines to Markets initiative,”<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />
Steve and Charmaine said that since Inspira Diamonds is a small<br />
business so is their carbon footprint, and in 2014 they revamped<br />
their ‘output’ to remove the use of plastics in their certificate covers,<br />
displays and boxes, thereby reducing their use and need for plastics.<br />
“This involved significant product re-design…(but) we are very happy<br />
with the outcome,” they said.<br />
Zoe Pook said she uses compostable packaging for her products and<br />
her business runs off green power.<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />
Time to buy Australian-made<br />
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ELIA COLLECTION<br />
Ethical jewellery<br />
as mainstream<br />
Now is the time, says Palloys’ Chris Botha. An<br />
ethical jewellery industry is the inevitable future,<br />
and businesses should get on board now.<br />
Palloys is fortunate to operate under the Pallion umbrella giving us<br />
access to gold and silver from our sister company, ABC Refinery,<br />
which is London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) accredited.<br />
This assures our clients of the ethical sourcing of their materials, but<br />
also comes with the satisfaction of knowing that our metals are not just<br />
ethical but meet strict international guidelines. There are less than 64<br />
refineries in the world that have LBMA accreditation.<br />
In addition, Palloys is a certified member of the Responsible Jewelry<br />
Council (RJC). It’s important to note that while anyone can apply to being<br />
a member of the RJC, not everyone is certified by RJC.<br />
But as proud as we are of certification, that is just the beginning. You<br />
only need to look at the global car industry as an example. In the past<br />
decade there have been several emission targets introduced, each one<br />
more stringent than the last. These sustainability concerns aren’t going<br />
away. Any changes to emissions will only get tighter and tighter. The<br />
jewellery industry will likely mirror this at some point.<br />
At Palloys we have opted to<br />
be an industry leader and see<br />
the rules around sustainability<br />
guidelines as something to<br />
exceed, not merely a target.<br />
The onus should be on every<br />
company to lead the way. We<br />
should all aim to be showing<br />
that the regulations should try and catch up to us. There’s no law that<br />
says you can’t use paper, yet it’s commonly used. Does that mean it’s<br />
best practice? Businesses should aim to be market leaders in this area.<br />
Palloys’ sister company, ABC Refinery<br />
Pallion and Palloys choose to be a market leader every day. We look<br />
to move forward. We have multiple companies that we use to recycle<br />
products we can’t internally reuse. We don’t toss things into landfill.<br />
Yes, this is an expensive process, but our clients expect us to be industry<br />
leaders in this regard. Together with our clients and partners, we<br />
understand it’s better to invest in sustainable practices now.<br />
Consumers want action. Lip service is no longer excusable at the retail<br />
end. Consumers are aware of the environmental impacts that come<br />
from consumption, and they want to know that their purchases aren’t<br />
contributing to unethical practices.<br />
My advice to jewellery companies looking to become sustainability<br />
leaders? Investigate your supplier. Don’t buy stuff randomly. Ask<br />
hard questions. Your supplier should be an open book and want to<br />
demonstrate their ethical responsibilities.<br />
Supporting retailers with unique,<br />
quality designs for over 30 years.<br />
+61 2 9452 4981 | hello@pastiche.com.au<br />
@pastichejewellery /pastichejewellery<br />
R
By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
LAUNCHING INTO<br />
A NEW SEASON<br />
Mike Granshaw, General Manager of Palloys, gives his expert advice on<br />
how to design and launch your next jewellery collection.<br />
Palloys<br />
While Australians hibernate through<br />
a winter of self-isolation, the<br />
jewellery industry is looking ahead<br />
to a brighter time, as they gear up to launch<br />
new collections and ranges ahead of the<br />
Christmas and Summer 21/22 seasons. Mike<br />
Granshaw, general manager of Palloys, says<br />
that offering new collections to customers<br />
is very important, and that the jewellery<br />
industry could follow the example of the<br />
fashion industry by bringing at least four<br />
ranges to market per year.<br />
“Collections don’t need to be massive and<br />
take over the whole store,” Mike said. “Start<br />
small and build up from there.”<br />
New technologies allow jewellers to achieve<br />
this without looking overseas. Indeed, recent<br />
times have brought new opportunities in this<br />
regard as more and more consumers actively<br />
seek to support local manufacturers and buy<br />
local.<br />
Palloys is the largest jewellery manufacturer<br />
in Australia, partnering with jewellers and<br />
retailers to design, manufacture and launch<br />
their upcoming ranges from the initial<br />
concept right through to delivering the<br />
finished piece ready to present to the end<br />
customer.<br />
Finding inspiration<br />
Every jeweller and retailer find their own<br />
unique source of inspiration, often developing<br />
a signature theme that individualises their<br />
brand. Mike says that Palloys’ clients build<br />
collections inspired by nature, art, architecture<br />
and fashion and sometime reference long-held<br />
traditions.<br />
“The Palloys Design team can partner with<br />
you to design and manufacture your dream<br />
collection, delivering the highest quality finish<br />
for your customers.”<br />
CAD technology has become instrumental<br />
in bringing these visions into reality, in an<br />
efficient and cost-effective manner.<br />
“CAD technology has enabled jewellers and<br />
retailers to create complex designs with<br />
precision, making production quicker and<br />
more affordable than ever before,” said Mike.<br />
“The sky is the limit when it comes to using<br />
CAD for jewellery, but the importance of<br />
designing for the casting process and with the<br />
bench jeweller in mind is often overlooked.<br />
Above and right: Livadi, by Palloys<br />
28<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
BDS_Ad_280x96_jul<strong>2021</strong>.pdf 1 13/7/21 11:14 am<br />
481023<br />
“When you design your next range with Palloys, you can work directly<br />
with the industry’s most experienced design team, who work hand in<br />
hand with the team who casts, and can even finish the jewellery.”<br />
481026<br />
Appealing to the target customer<br />
Any customer-facing jewellery business needs to identify their unique<br />
customer demographic, so they can focus on meeting their customer’s<br />
demands.<br />
“Partnering with Palloys brings together the jeweller’s customer<br />
expertise and our ‘design to finish’ capability to produce product ranges<br />
that are relevant and tailored to the target customer profile,” said Mike.<br />
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Customer feedback can be applied to ensure that future product ranges<br />
continue to appeal to the target customer. In any product range, some<br />
individual products will stand out, and Mike says it is important to<br />
recognise and act upon this information drawn from customer response.<br />
“As each range is brought to market the customer feedback and sales<br />
performance statistics are extremely important in building future<br />
products and ranges,” said Mike.<br />
“The Palloys Design team is supported by unmatched printing capacity,<br />
producing the industry’s highest resolution in both wax and resin, which<br />
means less time spent cleaning up at the bench and less gold and silver<br />
ending up in the sweeps! We can educate you on the best practices to<br />
create the most reliable CAD designs, including where to sprue, ideal<br />
prong heights and widths and the recommended depths for engraving.”<br />
481025<br />
481022<br />
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Authorised Preferred Supplier of<br />
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Mike says that the Palloys Design team also<br />
offers the option of creating renders of a<br />
retailer’s designs as a sales feature for their<br />
customers.<br />
“Bringing a life-like element to the design is<br />
an imminent part of the selling process,” said<br />
Mike. “Rendering in the modern age is of such<br />
a quality, it could almost pass as life-like.”<br />
There are some characteristics of today’s<br />
jewellery customer that encompass every<br />
market niche. Today’s customer is concerned<br />
about ethical practice in the jewellery<br />
industry, so they want to know more about<br />
the provenance of stones and precious metals.<br />
As the jewellery industry faces growing<br />
demand for ethically or responsibly sourced<br />
materials and increased questioning about the<br />
source of our precious metals, Mike says that<br />
all of Palloys’ gold and silver supply is sourced<br />
from Australia.<br />
“Palloys is the only jewellery manufacturer in<br />
that can trace its gold and silver supply to its<br />
original source -- Australia. All of Palloys gold<br />
and silver supply come from sister company,<br />
ABC Refinery, which is accredited by the<br />
London Bullion Market Association (LBMA).”<br />
Today’s customer also value individualised<br />
touches to their jewellery.<br />
“We have also found that the most popular<br />
jewellery collections place the choice back<br />
in the consumers hands,” said Mike. “We’re<br />
talking mass customisation with personalised<br />
touches including laser engraved details. Our<br />
finished men’s jewellery collection, Livadi,<br />
satisfies these needs.”<br />
Promotional strategies<br />
Launching a new range is a fresh new<br />
opportunity to attract new customers,<br />
while reconnecting with loyal customers. A<br />
carefully planned range, incorporating various<br />
complementary products and price points, will<br />
attract customers and provide opportunities<br />
to upsell.<br />
“The primary focus here is choice,” said Mike.<br />
“Customers love choice and price points are<br />
one of the easiest ways to provide this.”<br />
In today’s market, a dynamic digital media<br />
strategy is particularly effective.<br />
Livadi, by Palloys<br />
“Get the most out of your social media<br />
strategy by documenting – or having your<br />
supplier document – the end-to-end<br />
process and behind the scenes,” said Mike.<br />
“Consumers love the story behind the<br />
product.”<br />
Through social media, you can also<br />
encourage your customers to promote your<br />
product on your behalf.<br />
“Profile customers who wear your<br />
collection, photograph them in real<br />
life at their wedding and engagement<br />
photoshoots that you can also use on your<br />
own channels,” said Mike.<br />
Traditional marketing strategies are also still<br />
effective.<br />
“We also recommend extending your sales<br />
window by accepting pre-orders before you<br />
even launch the collection,” said Mike.<br />
“Developing a range with the Palloys team<br />
is a brilliant way to bring our collective skills<br />
and experience together to ensure that all<br />
relevant sales objectives are considered.”<br />
All images by Palloys<br />
30<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
2022 DIRECTORY<br />
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LARSEN JEWELLERY REMAINS THE ONLY<br />
JEWELLER IN AUSTRALIA TO ACHIEVE<br />
100% CARBON NEUTRAL STATUS<br />
From the beginning of Larsen <strong>Jewellery</strong>'s conception, ensuring a brighter future for the planet was<br />
paramount. Larsen was the first Australian jewellery brand to accomplish 100% carbon neutral<br />
status, and today remain as leaders in the market. They offer Fairtrade gold, donate at least 10% of<br />
all profits to charity—all while not compromising the quality or integrity of their jewellery.<br />
The global jewellery market is expected<br />
to be worth over $633 billion by<br />
2025 and with a growing demand<br />
for sustainability, the industry is becoming<br />
saturated with brands claiming to be ‘ethical'.<br />
With experts suggesting 'greenwashing' is rife,<br />
what does it really mean to be ethical?<br />
"Sustainable and ethical jewellery production<br />
takes on many forms, whether that be fair<br />
working conditions, recycling materials,<br />
ensuring conflict-free material sourcing<br />
and product<br />
transparency,”<br />
said founder,<br />
Lars Larsen.<br />
“For us, these<br />
are all equally<br />
important,<br />
for a brighter<br />
future for<br />
human beings,<br />
and for the<br />
environment.”<br />
“Consumers need to be wary of greenwashing.<br />
So many businesses make inflated claims<br />
that are completely misleading. We take<br />
great pride in ensuring everything we say is<br />
trackable and provable.”<br />
“We have been dedicated to ethical and<br />
sustainable standards long before it became<br />
popular – and we think it’s great that<br />
consumers are putting more and more<br />
pressure on businesses to do so,” continued<br />
Lars.<br />
When Lars and Susie Larsen gave up their<br />
executive finance positions at some of the<br />
world’s leading banks to tap into the luxury<br />
jewellery market, they had one key focus; to<br />
create a jewellery brand that offers the firstof-its-kind<br />
service in Australia.<br />
Now almost 15 years later, Larsen<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> has over 30 staff across Sydney<br />
and Melbourne, and a Brisbane studio<br />
opening later this year. At the peak of the<br />
pandemic last year, Larsen custom-made<br />
over 1250 wedding rings and more than 700<br />
engagement rings.<br />
Although Larsen has come a long way, the<br />
brand’s core tenets remain unwavering.<br />
The carbon-neutral certification process<br />
required Larsen to commission a NoCO2 audit<br />
and commit to ongoing annual auditing of<br />
emissions. The unavoidable emissions are<br />
32<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
now offset through the purchase of units<br />
in approved projects under the Verified<br />
Carbon Standard and Gold Standard. These<br />
projects range from advancing solar and wind<br />
power in China, biomass projects in India,<br />
and introducing fuel-efficient cookstoves in<br />
developing nations.<br />
Larsen ethically sources all their diamonds and<br />
gemstones to ensure they are conflict-free,<br />
and is a licensed producer of jewellery made<br />
from Fairtrade gold.<br />
“There are only a handful of providers of<br />
Fairtrade gold in Australia. Our jewellers all<br />
must document exactly how much gold they<br />
are using, and keep it completely separate<br />
[from other gold]. While it's not easy to do<br />
and considered time consuming, we think<br />
it’s important in our commitment to being<br />
as ethical and sustainable as we can be,” said<br />
Susie.<br />
Each custom-made ring or piece of jewellery<br />
is made in the studio, and is personalised to<br />
each of their customers’ needs, making the<br />
process a truly memorable experience.<br />
“When you visit one of our studios, you speak<br />
directly to one<br />
of our jewellers,<br />
rather than a<br />
salesperson,<br />
and their<br />
priority is to<br />
help educate<br />
customers<br />
about diamonds<br />
and jewellery<br />
in order to<br />
make the right<br />
decision,” said<br />
Susie. “We never compromise on quality,<br />
and all our products are backed by a lifetime<br />
guarantee.”<br />
Larsen donates at least 10% of all profits to<br />
three charities that have been handpicked<br />
by their team, including; The Fred Hollows<br />
Foundation, The Enchanted Ball and The<br />
Cambodian Children’s Fund (CCF). In 2017,<br />
Lars travelled<br />
to Cambodia<br />
to spend time<br />
with the staff<br />
and children at<br />
CCF. The trip<br />
had a profound<br />
impact on him,<br />
especially the<br />
inspiring story<br />
of a young girl<br />
called Nisa.<br />
Susie and Lars<br />
continue to<br />
sponsor Nisa<br />
to this day and provide her with support,<br />
not only financially, but as mentors and role<br />
models.<br />
As Lars and Susie continue to pave the way<br />
for ethical and sustainable jewellery, they will<br />
look to further expand their product lines and<br />
jewellery empire across the Australian market.<br />
Following Brisbane’s opening later this year,<br />
they’re eyeing off markets including Adelaide,<br />
Perth, as well as Susie’s home country, New<br />
Zealand.<br />
Currently, Larsen is conceptualising a new<br />
ready-to-wear collection, expanding its range<br />
beyond weddings and engagements. Their<br />
new collection is on track for a Christmas<br />
launch and will cater to a more affordable<br />
price point.<br />
Later this year, Larsen will also unveil a<br />
modern and luxurious new look to their<br />
physical studios, with a refurbishment planned<br />
across Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane<br />
stores. The future is boundless, and Larsen<br />
plans on continuing to lead the way.<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 33
JADE JEWELLERS DEFY<br />
THE ODDS TO CELEBRATE<br />
21ST BIRTHDAY MILESTONE<br />
A CBD turned ghost town, two major robberies and a pandemic would spell the end for most<br />
jewel-lery businesses but not Jade Jewellers. Despite the odds and with a lot of determination,<br />
the Moreton Bay region family-run business is celebrating their 21st birthday in <strong>August</strong>.<br />
Owners Gary and Laurene Coates have<br />
faced major hurdles throughout<br />
the years but with a wil-lingness to<br />
diversify and understanding the science of<br />
business, they have been able to reach a<br />
noteworthy milestone.<br />
“Our journey started when I bought a<br />
jewellery business in Nundah,” Gary said.<br />
“I was a watchmaker at the time and we<br />
thought it would be a good idea. But we soon<br />
realised we lacked a lot of business knowledge<br />
so it was a steep learning curve.”<br />
Gary and Laurene invested a lot of time to<br />
learn about the industry and implemented<br />
systems and processes that drove success.<br />
They opened a second store in Caboolture but<br />
made the decision to leave Nundah after the<br />
CBD was impacted by a major shopping centre<br />
which reduced foot traffic.<br />
In 2010 and 2012 Jade Jewellers had two<br />
major robberies and Gary and Laurene were<br />
left with a hard decision – to start again or<br />
quit?<br />
“I was taught to never give up,” Gary said.<br />
“We loved our business, our customers and<br />
we were lucky to get to do what we loved<br />
every day. We were told about a jewellery<br />
store in Burpengary that was closing down so<br />
we secured the location, did a small refit and<br />
reopened.”<br />
Gary and Laurene’s daughter Erin Mahar<br />
officially joined the family business in 2013.<br />
“Erin used to work at the Nundah shop on<br />
Saturday mornings when she was 14,” Gary<br />
said.<br />
“We asked Erin if she wanted to join us at the<br />
shop and we were so happy when she said<br />
yes.”<br />
Gary and Laurene were able to diversify in<br />
their market and as well as offering jewellery<br />
and watch repairs they also created one-ofa-kind<br />
masterpieces through their custom<br />
design service.<br />
“One of the key things we learnt is that you<br />
need to stay relevant in today’s market,” Gary<br />
said.<br />
“But above all else it’s our customers that<br />
come first.”<br />
Gary and Laurene both agree their customers<br />
were the best part of their business and enjoy<br />
hearing their stories and why they had come<br />
to them.<br />
Gary takes a closer look at a special Antwerp diamond.<br />
“We have met a lot of different people over<br />
the past 21 years and each and every story<br />
they share with us is special,” Gary said.<br />
“We get to share in secret surprises,<br />
heartbreaking losses and funny innuendos.<br />
Our customers are not just handing over a ring<br />
34<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
Gary and Laurene Coates celebrate 21 years at Jade Jewellers.<br />
to be fixed or buying a pretty necklace, they are handing us memories<br />
and future joyful moments. It’s that exchange that turns them from a<br />
customer into a friend.”<br />
In 2020 Jade Jewellers faced COVID-19 head on and instead of treading<br />
water, Gary and Laurene decided to press ahead with a planned major<br />
refit of the store.<br />
“It was something we had always planned to do, so we closed the store<br />
for three weeks and reopened with new counters and cabinets, new<br />
floors but the same customer service,” Gary said.<br />
“We are so glad we did it as has given new life to Jade Jewellers and has<br />
allowed us to employ two full-time sales staff and an onsite jeweller in<br />
addition to Renee Parry who has been with us for six years.”<br />
After 21 years in business, Gary said it was always important to see the<br />
potential, recognise when to ask for help and implement systems and<br />
processes.<br />
“At the end of the day we know we have done the best we can,” Gary<br />
said.<br />
“We are so proud that we have done it together as a family.”
Melbourne jeweller sources one of the<br />
world's last red diamonds<br />
Temelli <strong>Jewellery</strong> has achieved what few others have – they have acquired one<br />
of the world’s last known Certified Natural Red Argyle Diamonds.<br />
“This is next-level rare,” James Temelli, chief operating officer said of<br />
the coup. “Before this one, I had only seen about four [red diamonds] in<br />
real life, and those were at jewellery exhibitions.”<br />
From the initial approach from the Australian investor who was looking<br />
to buy one, to receiving the $800,000 sparkler, was a three-month<br />
global process.<br />
“It was part of our client’s superannuation strategy,” Mr Temelli<br />
explained. “The client approached other jewellers in Australia, but we<br />
were the most proactive to move on it and make it happen.”<br />
Persistence and patience were what helped the Collins Street jeweller<br />
realise the 0.47 carat red beauty from one of the world’s largest<br />
diamond houses.<br />
“We presented it to our client and facilitated the sale,” Mr Temelli said<br />
triumphantly.<br />
Globally it is considered extremely rare to even see an Australian<br />
Natural Red Argyle Diamond in person let alone be allowed to facilitate<br />
a conversation around the purchase of one, he added.<br />
“My estimation is that perhaps less than five remain in Australia, most<br />
are immediately purchased sight unseen by world figures like the<br />
Sultan of Brunei and worldwide investment brokers and collectors.<br />
“You have to be<br />
proactive, if the<br />
diamond is in<br />
Jerusalem, for<br />
instance, you have<br />
to find out how to<br />
get it to Australia.”<br />
A procurement<br />
of this kind is<br />
reliant on secure<br />
relationships and<br />
involves an element<br />
of risk. That is why<br />
proof of identity, a fixed secured appointment, and payment in advance<br />
are always part of any successful deal.<br />
Not only that, but the destination jeweller must also have an<br />
impeccable reputation, be safe, secure, trusted, and financially viable.<br />
Said to be ‘absolutely ecstatic with the outcome’, the purchaser of this<br />
brilliant red rarity is now in a class of their own. Considering the Argyle<br />
Mine in Western Australia ceased operation last November and its<br />
final showcase of its rarest diamonds from the final year of operations<br />
is being auctioned off later this year, this acquisition is a real boon for<br />
Temelli and the diamond investor themselves.<br />
PASSION<br />
COLOUR<br />
EXPERIENCE<br />
Suite 5, Level 1, 428 George Street SYDNEY NSW 2000<br />
P +61 2 8065 8533 E info@sovereigngems.com<br />
@sovereigngems<br />
In the past 21 years the price of red diamonds has increased by 500 per<br />
cent and the values per carat will only become greater in time.<br />
This incredible sale is yet another glittering example of the call for<br />
luxury goods right now.<br />
Temelli not only sources valuable diamonds, it also custom designs<br />
jewellery and is open to working with other gem collectors who may be<br />
looking to realise their investments just as their most recent client did.<br />
Temelli <strong>Jewellery</strong> is a household name in Australia, their pieces have<br />
adorned celebrities like Jennifer Hawkins, Jacinta Campbell and Tracey<br />
Grimshaw, the brand is progressive and accepts American Express and<br />
digital currencies including Qoin, Bitcoin, Ethereum and XRP.
Heart & Grace become official<br />
distributors for PD Paola in<br />
Australia and New Zealand<br />
PD Paola began in Barcelona,<br />
2014. Siblings Paola and<br />
Humbert Sasplugas pursued<br />
their dream: turning Paola’s<br />
childhood passion for jewellery<br />
and design into a lifetime<br />
project.<br />
Effortless elegance and<br />
timeless designs define the PD<br />
Paola range. With unique trend<br />
setting jewels and aspirational<br />
brand identity, PD Paola<br />
showcases the essence of their<br />
brand through their unique visuals and social media. With 1.6<br />
million social media followers PD Paola continues to grow.<br />
PD Paola presents jewels with a unique twist of natural and semiprecious<br />
stones and zirconias, all at affordable prices. Collections<br />
include Zodiacs and Letters, so jewellery can be personalised for<br />
the wearer.<br />
The brand describes itself as being<br />
for women who ‘own their glow’,<br />
with an emphasis on a spirit of<br />
adventure and self-discovery.<br />
“Every collection is the creation of a<br />
new world for the woman of today<br />
who is style-conscious, independent,<br />
and unapologetically herself,”<br />
the brand says. “We like to call it<br />
rebellious elegance with the right<br />
amount of effortless cool.”<br />
PD Paola has a wealth of beautiful visuals and display materials to<br />
showcase the brand beautifully in stores.<br />
Contact Caroline@heartandgrace.com.au for more information.
TAFE NSW SUPPORTS<br />
“BY HAND” DEMAND<br />
TAFE NSW is helping to fuel the local handmade industry by training and supporting<br />
small business owners like Dulwich Hill jewellery store owner Connie Dimas.<br />
Recent research from Roy Morgan has<br />
shown that 93% of Australians were<br />
more likely to buy products made in<br />
Australia since the COVID-19 pandemic took<br />
hold.<br />
It’s great news for handmade jewellery<br />
designer Connie, but she wasn’t always<br />
destined for a career in the jewellery industry.<br />
"Though I grew up with design in my blood<br />
with a shoemaker and dressmaker as parents,<br />
I chose to follow an academic path, studying<br />
science and mathematics at the University of<br />
NSW, Sydney,” Connie said.<br />
“After years trying to find passion in<br />
the science world, I stumbled across an<br />
opportunity to create jewellery and absolutely<br />
fell in love. I immediately enrolled to study<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Object Design at TAFE NSW<br />
Design Centre Enmore and it was the best<br />
decision I ever made.”<br />
Connie excelled in several roles in Australian<br />
jewellery manufacturing businesses and now<br />
owns her own jewellery store in Dulwich Hill<br />
– Connie Dimas <strong>Jewellery</strong>. She says the shift to<br />
hands-on training changed the course of her<br />
life.<br />
“I finally had the opportunity to express<br />
my individuality and experiment within the<br />
required syllabus to develop my own style.<br />
"Creating by hand has always been my true<br />
passion, and the opportunity to work with my<br />
customers to design and perfect their unique<br />
pieces is the best part of my job.”<br />
TAFE NSW head teacher of jewellery design<br />
and manufacture, Gina Kind said the<br />
pandemic had forced many people to reassess<br />
their purchasing habits and reliance on<br />
imported goods.<br />
"We know that during the pandemic many<br />
people started to think about how their<br />
purchasing habits impacted the local economy<br />
and saw a huge shift towards locally-made<br />
items. This was partly out of necessity but also<br />
due to a general acknowledgement that our<br />
shopping habits have a tangible impact on our<br />
local businesses,” Ms Kind said.<br />
“TAFE NSW is helping to train people in all<br />
areas of design to support the push towards<br />
locally sourced craftsmanship. In jewellery<br />
making, we have a proud history of producing<br />
incredible talent who go on to work in some<br />
of Australia’s most prestigious jewellery<br />
companies or open their<br />
own businesses.”<br />
The Certificate III in<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Manufacture<br />
provides students with<br />
hands-on skills in all aspects<br />
of jewellery fabrication in<br />
custom artist studios so<br />
students graduate ready for<br />
a career in the industry.<br />
Connie says she is a<br />
passionate advocate for<br />
TAFE NSW after the training<br />
and support she received at Design Centre<br />
Enmore. She’s now encouraging her children<br />
to consider pursuing a course at TAFE NSW.<br />
“TAFE NSW gives you an opportunity to study<br />
a broad range of careers and start studying<br />
at a certificate level to build up towards the<br />
career you want. Most students are not sure<br />
what career path to study and locking into a<br />
long-term diploma or degree can put pressure<br />
on a teenager,” she said.<br />
“I have encouraged both my teenagers to look<br />
at TAFE NSW courses in their chosen interests.<br />
One of them took up a TVET course during<br />
high school and he is so grateful to have done<br />
so, he feels that he is already ahead.”<br />
To find out more about the TAFE NSW<br />
Certificate III course in jewellery manufacture,<br />
visit www.tafensw.edu.au or call 131 601.<br />
38<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS<br />
Craig Miller<br />
CEO, JC Jewels<br />
www.jcjewels.com.au<br />
Bargaining power varies across the diamond value<br />
chain. Who has it, and why? And how can you, as a<br />
jeweller, get more of it?<br />
It works like this:<br />
Manufacturers pay upfront for the rough diamonds from the mining<br />
companies, diamond dealers pay upfront for the polished diamonds from<br />
the cutters and then diamond merchants supply jewellers on consignment<br />
and give payment terms. Consignment stock requires finance – and guess<br />
who pays for that? Yes, you, the jewellers.<br />
Jewellers require diamonds on consignment for client viewings, I get that.<br />
It's not always possible for smaller jewellers to have every diamond in<br />
stock however, in some cases, the items being asked for are core basics.<br />
But imagine what you could achieve if you owned a portion of the core<br />
diamond basics – no consignment, no finance, just outright ownership.<br />
With accurate and strategic planning and reporting this is not only<br />
possible and affordable, but will also yield a return on investment.<br />
This is what disruption looks like. New technologies always have a big<br />
impact on traditional ways of doing business, but often it can be difficult<br />
simply getting around to investigating and onboarding the change your<br />
business might need. Lab grown diamonds and tech-driven buying models<br />
are prime examples, and systems where diamond merchants can supply<br />
jewellers with diamonds direct from growers and cutting houses will make<br />
jewellers more money.<br />
And, as with every new venture and growth opportunity, sticking with the<br />
traditional models and the methods that have been used for generations,<br />
will not take you to the next level. You have to be bold.<br />
Where am I going with this?<br />
Traditionally diamond merchants hold large inventories of stock and<br />
retailers depend on diamond merchants for consignment calls. Let us ask<br />
ourselves a simple question – is the diamond merchant buying diamonds<br />
for the retailer to enjoy the majority of the profits, or to make profits for<br />
themselves?<br />
Can we reverse engineered this?<br />
There is no reason why that model can't apply to you. And that is where<br />
my company, JC Jewels, comes in. We empower our clients with over<br />
100,000 mined and lab grown loose and certified diamonds to choose<br />
from, with state of the art technology to assist. You log into our platform<br />
and we leave every diamond on the table for you to select from – not just<br />
the stones we can profit from but the stones you can too.<br />
This way we leave a chunk of buying profit for you, and empower you to<br />
choose the perfect diamond that allows you more profit and in most cases<br />
an upgrade on the stone your client receives.<br />
Our model is disrupting an age old industry and our clients are loving it. As<br />
a trusted – and local – merchant, we vet every supplier for you, ensure all<br />
the stones are available then QC every stone.<br />
To date, our clients have purchased thousands of diamonds this way<br />
with no returns or complaints. We handle all logistics and costs involved<br />
ensuring every diamond arrives on your desk looking exactly as you and<br />
your client expect.
SUSTAINABLE TIMBERS IMPART<br />
RUSTIC ELEGANCE TO GIVE<br />
WOODEN RING BOX RANGE<br />
Give Packaging has carved out a special niche in the jewellery trade with its<br />
elegant, handcrafted wooden ring boxes, designed and made in New Zealand<br />
from sustainable timbers. The core Give range is produced from four different<br />
timbers: Walnut, Jarrah, Beech and Euro, all sourced from managed forests.<br />
“We have to select timbers that are going to<br />
be good to work with and ones that work well<br />
with the tooling we use to create the products.<br />
Some timbers can be too hard, too stringy<br />
or too ‘burny,’ due to router speeds, etc. So<br />
when we are looking for a new timber, we trial<br />
a variety, but they must be from managed<br />
forests,” Give Packaging co-founder, Nicolette<br />
Jones explained.<br />
“We have found that<br />
most countries like<br />
to use a timber they<br />
are familiar with. The<br />
Give Packaging range is<br />
produced from these<br />
sustainable timbers:<br />
Walnut - USA/Canada;<br />
Jarrah - Australia;<br />
Beech - New Zealand and Euro – Europe.” Each<br />
species has points of distinction:<br />
Walnut (Juglans nigra) grows in the central<br />
United States predominantly in areas of<br />
natural hardwood forest, with around 90% of<br />
hardwood timber derived from small areas<br />
of private forest mostly owned by families or<br />
individuals. Only 5% of private forest is owned<br />
by corporations. Professional foresters who<br />
manage these areas fell a small number of<br />
trees - only once they reach full maturity - each<br />
year, ensuring long-term sustainable timber<br />
production and forest biodiversity. Walnut is<br />
one of the few species that is planted as well<br />
as naturally regenerated after harvesting.<br />
Jarrah (Eucalyptus marginata) grows in<br />
native forest areas in Southwest Australia.<br />
Approximately 2.25 million hectares of native<br />
forest is managed by the Western Australian<br />
government. Of this, 62% is protected and<br />
not available for harvest, 38% is regrowth<br />
forest available for harvest, while less than<br />
1% of the total area is harvested annually.<br />
The amount of timber removed from native<br />
forests each year is less than the annual<br />
growth and regeneration, making native<br />
timber management a sustainable activity in<br />
the region. Jarrah forests are independently<br />
certified to the Australian Forestry Standard<br />
(AFS) which is recognised by the PEFC, and<br />
the International Standard for Environmental<br />
Management Systems (ISO 14001).<br />
New Zealand Silver Beech (Nothofagus<br />
menziesli) is sourced from sustainably<br />
managed forests, and is becoming the<br />
favoured wood to replace rimu as the<br />
prime native species. All silver beech in<br />
40<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
New Zealand is required to be managed<br />
to exacting standards under detailed long<br />
term Sustainable Management Plans. Silver<br />
beech is harvested under sustainable forest<br />
management permits from the Ministry of<br />
Agriculture and Forestry.<br />
The use of sustainably managed silver beech is<br />
a positive alternative to using less sustainably<br />
managed timbers such as imported<br />
hardwoods, and illegally logged rainforest.<br />
The majority of Southland silver beech is<br />
from sustainably managed second growth<br />
(previously harvested and regenerated) forest,<br />
of an average age of 75-80 years, with FSC<br />
certified supplies available. Plantation-grown<br />
and second-growth regenerated native forest<br />
timbers can generally produce breast-height<br />
diameters of 60cm, and small quantities of<br />
heartwood within 75 years.<br />
Euro Beech (Fagus sylvatica L. mainly comes<br />
from Germany, where beech is the most<br />
common broadleaved species. Over the last<br />
15 years, the area of beech has increased<br />
by about 150 000 ha. Predominantly under<br />
near-natural management, beech forests are a<br />
prime example of a sustainable, multiple-use<br />
forest management. The integrated approach<br />
of this multiple-use management is an ideal<br />
example for the achievement of the aims of<br />
the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD).<br />
Near-natural forest management gives priority<br />
to the natural regeneration of forests. Natural<br />
regeneration is always adopted when the<br />
species, origin and quality of the existing trees<br />
in the forest are sufficiently well adapted to<br />
the prevailing site conditions. For beech, these<br />
prerequisites exist almost without exception<br />
and in Germany, beech has been regenerated<br />
predominantly naturally as long as one can<br />
remember. Seed-bearing beech trees still<br />
continue to pass on their native, and hence<br />
well-adapted genetic identity to the next<br />
forest generation.<br />
Give Packaging products are made from<br />
purchased timber strictly sourced from<br />
managed forests, Ms Jones affirmed. “Since<br />
2007, we have also regularly contributed<br />
financially to these greening initiatives:<br />
Greening Australia, New Zealand Native Forest<br />
Restoration Trust and American Forests,” she<br />
said.<br />
Greening<br />
Australia is an<br />
independent<br />
not-for-profit<br />
environmental<br />
organisation<br />
with a mission<br />
to conserve<br />
and restore<br />
Australia’s<br />
landscapes at<br />
scale through<br />
collaborative,<br />
science-based and innovative conservation<br />
programs. It is involved in numerous<br />
restoration projects across Australia, including<br />
relinking habitats across parts of Southern<br />
Australia and Tasmania, improving water<br />
quality on the Great Barrier Reef by restoring<br />
coastal wetlands, and partnering with<br />
Aboriginal communities to support indigenous<br />
land management.<br />
The Native Forest<br />
Restoration Trust<br />
acquires land<br />
to promote the<br />
regeneration<br />
of native<br />
forests, protect<br />
important species<br />
and restore<br />
their habitats,<br />
and improve<br />
the quality of<br />
waterways. It currently manages over 7,000<br />
hectares of native forests throughout New<br />
Zealand. Each piece of land is placed under<br />
a covenant to ensure permanent protection,<br />
so it can never be cleared, harvested or<br />
developed.<br />
American Forests is the oldest national<br />
conservation organisation in the United States,<br />
working for more than 140 years to create<br />
healthy forests that deliver essential benefits<br />
for the climate, people, water and wildlife.<br />
Its mission is to advance the conservation<br />
of forests across the country by protecting<br />
and restoring forest ecosystems, promoting<br />
and expanding urban forests, and increasing<br />
understanding of the importance of forests.<br />
Recently Give Packaging’s timber range was<br />
joined by a woollen range which uses wool<br />
as a renewable and sustainable resource.<br />
Both ranges are 100% biodegradable. “Our<br />
inspiration with wool was to create pouches<br />
and tiny card boxes to house woollen interiors.<br />
It was important to us to have a natural inner<br />
and outer packaging option, so the 100% wool<br />
inside the sustainably sourced card, makes<br />
it a great alternative to other options in the<br />
market,” Ms Jones said.<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 41
KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE<br />
Creole Earrings<br />
This tutorial shows you how to make a pair of twisted hoop earrings.<br />
The main purpose of this exercise is for apprentices to experience<br />
making a simple hinge and catch mechanism for earrings so that<br />
they have a better understanding for future repair work.<br />
This design uses a twisted wire but you can customise the body of<br />
the earring to any design you like.<br />
1To make the twist wire I am using<br />
a strip of silver measuring 1mm<br />
x 2.5mm x 200mm that has been<br />
annealed. Cut off 25mm and put to<br />
one side to make the catch later on.<br />
Clamp one end in your vice. Grip the<br />
other end tightly in your draw tongs or<br />
gripping pliers and twist it several times<br />
until you have the required twist. Make<br />
sure that you pull the strip tight as you<br />
turn to avoid it buckling.<br />
2<br />
Anneal it again, and wrap it twice<br />
around your ring mandrel until<br />
it overlaps. You may need to tap<br />
it into shape with your rawhide<br />
mallet. If it springs open a little, don’t<br />
worry as there needs to be an opening<br />
for the mechanism.<br />
3<br />
Now cut the coil to make two twist<br />
ring hoops and open them on your<br />
mandrel and trim them so that<br />
you have a 12mm gap. The outside<br />
diameter of the finished hoops should be<br />
around 25mm including the opening.<br />
File all the ends flat and angle your file<br />
so that the hinge and catch will face each<br />
other straight when fixed on.<br />
4<br />
Roll the remainder of your strip<br />
to 0.7mm. Cut two 5mm pieces<br />
for the catch and two 10mm<br />
pieces for the hinges. This will be more<br />
than you need but you can trim them<br />
down later. Fold the hinge strips over to<br />
form a ‘U’ shape. Place the catch part<br />
inside the hinge and tighten with your<br />
parallel pliers. This will make the hinge<br />
gap the right shape and size.<br />
5<br />
File a flat spot on the bottom of<br />
the hinges, and then set up the<br />
components ready for soldering.<br />
I have placed a scalpel blade under the<br />
hinge to make sure it lines up to the<br />
centre of the hoop end. The catch part<br />
needs to be soldered flat on.<br />
6<br />
While the hoops are in the pickle,<br />
cut two pieces of 1.1mm round<br />
wire to approximately 35mm.<br />
Emery clean and flux about 4mm at the<br />
end of each piece and while holding<br />
the wire vertically, melt the end. Use<br />
an oxidizing flame and ensure that you<br />
don’t allow the molten ball to become<br />
so large that it drops off the wire.<br />
42<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
7<br />
Cut the hinges down to<br />
approximately 3mm and file them<br />
into a rounded profile. The catch<br />
end can be filed down to approximately<br />
4mm.<br />
Remove any solder evidence and emery<br />
clean them ready for polishing.<br />
8<br />
To make the correct ear wire<br />
profile, hammer the wires on your<br />
bench block. The ball will become<br />
a disk and the wire should be flattened<br />
to around 0.7mm thick.<br />
9<br />
Now prepare a small piece of<br />
0.9mm round wire and find a drill<br />
the same size. Drill into the centre<br />
of the disks on the ear wires and the<br />
through the centre of the hinges making<br />
sure your drilling is perfectly straight.<br />
Also drill the catches in the centre at the<br />
point where the catch meets the hoop.<br />
10<br />
Open the catch hole out with<br />
a 1.1mm ball bur. Insert a 4/0<br />
saw blade and cut out to the<br />
top. Open the cut out a little<br />
and curve the inner cuts at the top. Use a<br />
knife edge escapement file tidy up the inner<br />
opening.<br />
Test the ear wire to make sure it catches.<br />
11pin. Cut the ear wire down and<br />
Now you can fit the curved<br />
ear wire and insert the hinge<br />
taper the end. There should<br />
just be enough protruding to be able to<br />
operate it.<br />
You will probably need to make some<br />
adjustments. Take your time and make<br />
sure that the parts are not wobbly when<br />
fitted.<br />
12<br />
Once you are satisfied that<br />
the mechanism is functioning<br />
properly you can cut and<br />
file the hinge pins down so<br />
that 0.5mm is exposed on both sides.<br />
Hammer the pin ends carefully and keep<br />
turning them over to ensure that the<br />
flared ends are even.<br />
Now test and tweak as necessary until<br />
your earrings are ready for a final polish.<br />
Peter Keep is a<br />
master jeweller<br />
and teacher. He<br />
offers structured<br />
online courses<br />
that have helped<br />
thousands of<br />
students around<br />
the world improve<br />
their skills.<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service<br />
including the industry recognised Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.<br />
The video tutorial for this lesson can be found in the Advanced Level<br />
https://jewellery-training-solutions.thinkific.com/courses/creole-earrings<br />
Check out the other courses and options at<br />
www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 43
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Bering<br />
Perfect style combined with contemporary minimalism. Sapphire<br />
crystal glass. Arctic green dial. Milanese Mesh. RRP $299 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Disney - Mickey Sculpted Dial<br />
Silver sculpted Mickey Dial with genuine red leather strap. 3 ATM water<br />
resistant. Comes with an Original Disney Tin gift box. RRP $79 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Ice Watch – 018477<br />
Ice Solar Sunset Watch. Solar powered, ultra slim, feather light,<br />
made with polycarbonate ABS. Water resistant to 50 meters.<br />
RRP $139.9 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Ingersoll – I09303: The Orville<br />
Skeleton automatic movement. Water resistant to 50 Meters.<br />
Leather storage pouch. RRP $799 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
JDM Military Sapphire<br />
Alpha Chrono Black – Swiss made. Chronograph function.<br />
Rugged 100-meter water resistant watch with scratch- and<br />
shock-proof sapphire crystal. RRP $479 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Maserati Hybrid Traguardo – Analogue Italian style with the<br />
functions of a smartwatch. Heart rate, calorie tracker, pedometer,<br />
stopwatch, camera control and more. RRP $589 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
44<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Paul Hewitt Praia Watch- All Metal Minimalist Watch.<br />
Water resistant to 50 meters. Maritime anchor motif. All gold<br />
iconic perfection. RRP: $289<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Swiss Ladies 35mm Automatic Date<br />
Swiss ML115 movement. Interchangeable white leather strap.<br />
White mother of pearl dial. Diamond indices. RRP $3860 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Philip Watch Men’s Automatic 42mm Caribe Divers Watch<br />
Precision Swiss made. Helium gas valve with 300-meter water resistance.<br />
Sapphire crystal glass. Unrivalled Italian luxury. RRP $1660 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Nordgreen Pioneer Watch<br />
Reddot Award winning design by Jakob Wagner. 100% carbon<br />
neutral. Eco-friendly humanitarian charity options included in<br />
the price. Water resistant to 50 meters. RRP $429 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Sector Save the Ocean Blue Watch<br />
Eco-friendly watch made from plastic collected from the oceans.<br />
Recyclable PET used to make sturdy Nato strap. Sporty watch<br />
with 5ATM resistance. RRP $249 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 45
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525<br />
Vibrant spring colours from the new Ellani<br />
Collections Spring/Summer <strong>2021</strong> release.<br />
www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />
Bianc | +61 413 872 810<br />
Bianc introduces to you their latest<br />
collection. Everything is ready for order now.<br />
This season you will be enchanted by Bianc’s<br />
radiant rainbow moonstone and rose<br />
quartz, twinkling tourmaline and topaz, and<br />
precious pearls.<br />
info@bianc.com.au<br />
@bianc_jewellery<br />
www.bianc.com.au<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />
These elegant, timeless pendants in<br />
sterling silver rhodium plate, feature cubic<br />
zirconia’s and are part of the <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Centre’s new range.<br />
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />
Pastiche | +61 2 9452 4981<br />
Inspired by the shores of Elia, born in Greece and forever<br />
chasing the sun, the Elia Collection showcases unique<br />
Pastiche designs combining golden tones and on-trend styles<br />
crafted in stainless steel or solid sterling silver. This collection<br />
will be a hit with your customers as most pieces retail for<br />
under $100. Exciting additions to this season include the<br />
Athena set with beautiful freshwater pearls, as well as the<br />
dainty Ariana heart necklace, and the fob style Alida set.<br />
www.pastiche.com.au<br />
Dear Addison | +61 2 9452 4981<br />
Dear Addison, offers a range of delicate designs in sterling<br />
silver or gold plated brass. A fun and vibrant collection, the<br />
new Muse Collection for Spring/Summer <strong>2021</strong> is filled with<br />
gorgeous details and playful resin hoops. This collection<br />
will entice customers through the doors with its colour and<br />
personality.<br />
www.dearaddison.com.au<br />
46<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
Stones and Silver | +61 3 9587 1215<br />
Beautiful, timeless and elegant our new .925 sterling silver fob 45cm<br />
necklace featuring 10mm links is a must have. SS-6210.<br />
This stunning .925 sterling silver fob link necklace is 45cm long with<br />
a 7mm link and features a textured fob for added wow. SS-6590.<br />
www.stonesandsilver.com.au<br />
Zahar | +61 413 872 810<br />
Introducing Zahar's latest collection. Everything is available now<br />
and ready for order!<br />
This season, Zahar features statement link chains, dainty layering<br />
pieces, as well as some fun and flirty coloured glass styles.<br />
info@zahar.com.au<br />
@zahar.collection<br />
www.zahar.com.au<br />
Ellendale Diamonds Australia | +61 8 6180 1562<br />
A timeless 18k white/yellow gold pendant featuring 26 round<br />
brilliant cut fancy intense yellow diamonds VS-SI totalling 0.26ct<br />
and 39 round brilliant cut G+ SI2 diamonds totalling 0.39ct.<br />
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Roamer Competence Skeleton III<br />
Skeleton Swiss Made watch with STP6-15 automatic movement<br />
offering 48hr power reserve. Bidirectional self-winding via<br />
perpetual rotor. Sapphire crystal glass. 43mm case.<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 47
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
PD Paolo | Heart & Grace | +61 422 863 906<br />
CO01-262 – Letter C $135 RRP. 925 Sterling silver with an 18K gold<br />
plating, labradorite, tiger eye, mother of pearl and crystals blend.<br />
Bringing back the nineties’ and giving a twist to their beautiful<br />
nostalgia, floating letters rise as the innovative and distinctive<br />
personal symbol: a new reality is born from a piece of jewellery that<br />
empowers your true self and says your name out loud.<br />
AR01- 293 - Willow Gold Earring - $155 RRP. 925 Sterling silver with<br />
an 18K gold plating, the willow necklace is part of our Five collection.<br />
Inspired by morning light going through leafy woods, always graceful<br />
and eternal. With five colour stones featured throughout the Five<br />
collection, sapphire blue corundum, rhodolite zirconia, champagne<br />
zirconia, golden yellow zirconia and pure white zirconia<br />
hello@heartandgrace.com.au<br />
www.heartandgrace.com.au<br />
Bella Donna Silver | +61 7 5329 2445<br />
Bella Donna Silver’s elegant new range of pearl earrings are<br />
ethically made with AAA natural pearls, sterling silver and 18ct<br />
rose gold plated, or 14ct yellow gold plated 0.25 micron.<br />
donna@belladonnasilver.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Jacques Du Manoir Two-Tone Royal Swiss Watch Set<br />
Swiss made, replaceable bezels, zircon crystal band.<br />
Feel like a true royal with JDM. RRP $359 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />
Georgini: IB184W/IE999W/IP847W<br />
The Rockstar Evil Eye Set-<br />
Defend evil with the Georgini Blue Evil Eye Set in Silver from the Rock<br />
Star Collection. This iconic talisman features stunning sapphire nano<br />
eyes in rhodium plated sterling silver.RRP $99/$59/$119 AUD<br />
www.westendcollection.com.au<br />
48<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
Mark McAskill <strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 8352 1400<br />
Pink tourmaline brings a bright pop of colour to this new Art Deco<br />
inspired dress ring, with double claws enhancing the vintage feel.<br />
#2560.<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre’s latest earring arrivals from Italy.<br />
Sterling silver graduated faceted hoop earring (hef240)<br />
Sterling silver flat faceted hoop earring (hef4230)<br />
Sterling silver graduated faceted oval hoop earring (heof1530)<br />
Visit our website for more sizes in these styles<br />
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />
Double talon claws and wide split shoulders create a striking look in<br />
this new design cushion cut Tanzanite dress ring. #2561.<br />
sales@markmcaskill.com.au<br />
Ronnie Shabtay Fine <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
9K gold round profile polished oval huggie with gold bezel set<br />
14x10mm pear shaped blue gemstones drop earrings.<br />
www.ronnieshabtay.com<br />
Ikecho Australia | +61 2 9266 0636<br />
9ct rose gold Edison white round 12mm hook diamond earrings.<br />
Dia 0.42ct. IP406-ERG-EDI.<br />
9ct yellow gold Keshi 18mm+ freshwater pearl diamond pendant.<br />
Dia: 0.03ct. and 9ct yellow gold Keshi 12- 18mm freshwater pearl<br />
handmade ring. IP3556N-9YG-DIA and IPRS38-9YG.<br />
www.ikecho.com.au<br />
Vina <strong>Jewellery</strong> | 0413 040 330<br />
Modern design sterling silver, pendant necklace. Represent<br />
everlasting love with a tiny heart centrepiece and sparkle<br />
majestically with the infinity symbol.<br />
pinaroo@bigpond.net.au<br />
<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 49
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E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au<br />
Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.<br />
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.<br />
Pins/tools. <strong>Jewellery</strong> findings. J C Hurst Bangles.<br />
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks<br />
Chris O’Neill<br />
Piecemaker<br />
2015 YJG Bench Challenge<br />
Hand Engraving Champion.<br />
Also specialising in quality<br />
Handmakes, Repairs and<br />
Antique restorations in the<br />
Sydney CBD.<br />
0405 689 834<br />
SPECIALISING IN QUALITY<br />
JEWELLERY TOOLS & EQUIPMENT<br />
WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE<br />
diamonds and coloured stones<br />
PO Box 112<br />
Toronto NSW 2283<br />
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168<br />
E: sales@adelaimports.com<br />
Glues<br />
Adela Imports offer over 180<br />
designs of sterling silver chain,<br />
with up to 20 lengths available<br />
in each from stock.<br />
Also offering a range of<br />
uniquely designed silver<br />
jewellery.<br />
Catalogue available.<br />
www.adelaimports.com<br />
services<br />
Asia<br />
Gem<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Specialising in handmade<br />
jewellery, CAD/CAM<br />
modelling, repairs and supply<br />
of opals and gemstones.<br />
Located in Sydney’s<br />
Chinatown.<br />
M: +61 491 174 922<br />
E: asiagem2000@yahoo.com<br />
(07) 3876 7481<br />
sales@labanda.com.au<br />
FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />
ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202<br />
MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545<br />
PERTH (08) 6363 5517<br />
SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626<br />
www.labanda.com.au<br />
Are you <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
<strong>World</strong>'s biggest joker?<br />
Got a gem of a gag, a diamond of<br />
a giggle, a real shiner to share?<br />
Fed up with the lame efforts we<br />
publish here? Send us something<br />
funny – we dare you.<br />
No, really, please do, coz the<br />
recent jokes have been killing me.<br />
Send your joke to jeremy@<br />
jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Relaxing...<br />
FIRST THEY<br />
SAID UNSINKABLE,<br />
NOW THEY SAY<br />
WE'RE SINKING?<br />
WHY SHOULD<br />
WE BELIEVE<br />
THEM?<br />
ADVERTISE HERE<br />
The classifieds section is an excellent place for suppliers and<br />
manufacturers to advertise products and services in a longrunning,<br />
low cost way.<br />
All size ads are available and may include product<br />
photos. Visit our website to download our media<br />
pack for prices.<br />
www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
If the Titanic sank in <strong>2021</strong><br />
I DON'T SEE<br />
AN ICEBERG!<br />
NOBODY I<br />
KNOW SAW AN<br />
ICEBERG!<br />
THE<br />
HOLE IN<br />
THE SHIP IS<br />
BELOW THE<br />
WATERLINE?<br />
OH, THAT'S<br />
CONVENIENT!<br />
HOAX!<br />
THIS<br />
CRISIS WAS<br />
MADE UP BY<br />
THE LIFEBOAT<br />
INDUSTRY!<br />
YOU<br />
CAN'T MAKE<br />
ME GET IN A<br />
LIFEBOAT.<br />
I HAVE<br />
RIGHTS!<br />
50<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>
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