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Jewellery World Magazine - August 2021

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AUGUST <strong>2021</strong><br />

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE


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AUG-21<br />

Follow Us On :


<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

ABN: 82 637 204 454<br />

ISSN: 2207-6751<br />

PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />

P: 0431 844 903<br />

Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

managing director<br />

Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />

jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

editor<br />

editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

contributing writers<br />

Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

Stefan Juengling<br />

Cheryl D Harty<br />

art<br />

design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

advertising sales<br />

sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />

REGULARS<br />

6 News<br />

14 Palloy's Points<br />

16 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />

18 JAA News<br />

39 Lab-grown Diamond Advice<br />

42 Keeping Skills Alive<br />

44 New Products<br />

50 Directory<br />

FEATURES<br />

22 The Green Scene<br />

Australia's creative craftspeople at the cutting edge<br />

of the ethical jewellery industry<br />

28 Launching into a new season<br />

Now is the time to design and launch your new<br />

collection using new tech and local manufacturers<br />

32 Australian jeweller achieves 100% carbon neutral<br />

Larsen <strong>Jewellery</strong> was the first jewellery brand in<br />

Australia to be certified carbon neutral<br />

22<br />

32<br />

36<br />

DISCLAIMER:<br />

This publication may not be reproduced<br />

in whole or part without the written<br />

permission of the Publisher.<br />

Articles express the opinions of the<br />

authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />

Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />

service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />

Publisher’s endorsement.<br />

The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />

loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />

or misleading statements that may appear<br />

in this publication.<br />

All information is copyright.<br />

34 Happy birthday to Jade Jewellers<br />

A family-run, regional business turns 21 proving that<br />

determination shines in our industry<br />

38 TAFE NSW supports 'by hand' demand<br />

The institution continues to provide the industry<br />

with skills and opportunities<br />

AUGUST <strong>2021</strong><br />

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />

FRONT COVER<br />

Ellani Collections<br />

www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />

4<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />

• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)<br />

• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)<br />

(Darling Harbour)<br />

• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)<br />

TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU<br />

TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU


News<br />

Rio Tinto retains the Argyle Pink<br />

Diamonds brand<br />

Following the closure of the iconic Argyle diamond<br />

mine in November 2020, Rio Tinto has decided that<br />

it will retain the Argyle Pink Diamonds brand within<br />

its portfolio of diamonds assets and will continue to<br />

support market development activities in the coming<br />

years.<br />

Musson cements partnership with De Beers Forevermark<br />

Musson, the only jeweller licensed in Australia to sell iconic Black Label Forevermark<br />

diamonds, has announced the renaming of Forevermark to De Beers Forevermark.<br />

The name change signals a closer association between Forevermark and the<br />

130-year-old De Beers brand, a name synonymous with excellence and expertise in<br />

beautiful, rare and responsibly-sourced diamonds.<br />

“As the only company holding exclusive rights to De Beers Forevermark diamonds<br />

and Black Label diamonds on the east coast of Australia, we’re delighted to deepen<br />

our association with De Beers, a more than 10-year-old relationship” said Musson<br />

managing director, Damien Musson.<br />

“The benefit flows directly to our customers,” says Musson. “A Forevermark diamond<br />

has always represented the highest standards of beauty and responsible sourcing and<br />

now our customers will be able to access further the values and exceptional expertise<br />

that comes with the De Beers name.”<br />

“To be able to align Musson with De Beers can only strengthen our brand and<br />

increase the trust our customers already have in the beauty and quality of our<br />

diamonds, their sustainability and responsible sourcing.” he said.<br />

Royal pearls and beads<br />

The Duchess of Cambridge added some sparkle to watching sport, when she wore<br />

some exquisite yet understated jewellery items while attending Wembley and<br />

Wimbledon.<br />

For her first trip to the tennis, Kate<br />

a chic blue and white skirt with a<br />

blazer, and finished the look with<br />

pearl earrings and a Daniella Draper<br />

pendant, engraved with the initials of<br />

her children.<br />

When she attended Wembley to<br />

watch the final of the postponed 2020<br />

European Championships, she added<br />

a dash of colour to her conservative outfit, wearing red statement earrings. The red<br />

Blaiz teardrop beaded earrings were believed to have been a tribute to the English<br />

team, playing Italy in the finals.<br />

Argyle Pink Diamonds will continue to be available<br />

globally through Rio Tinto’s remaining inventory<br />

and via the active secondary diamond and jewellery<br />

markets.<br />

Built up over 37 years, Argyle Pink Diamonds is an<br />

iconic Australian brand with significant global reach,<br />

providing opportunities for the brand to be sustained<br />

beyond the end of mining.<br />

Rio Tinto remains committed to the diamond industry,<br />

progressing the closure of the Argyle mine, retaining<br />

the Argyle Pink Diamonds brand, managing its<br />

interests in the Diavik mine in Canada and pursuing its<br />

ongoing exploration for another world class diamond<br />

ore body.<br />

Pink diamond found in Botswana<br />

Lucara has announced the recovery of one of the<br />

largest rough pink diamonds on record from the Karowe<br />

Diamond mine in Botswana. The 62.7-carat high<br />

quality fancy pink Type IIa diamond has been named<br />

“Boitumelo” meaning “joy” and is the largest fancy pink<br />

gem recovered in Botswana.<br />

Lucara CEO Eira Thomas<br />

said that the company was<br />

“delighted” with the discovery<br />

of another historic diamond,<br />

and at the continuing<br />

potential discovery of large<br />

coloured diamonds in the<br />

region.<br />

“These remarkable pink<br />

diamonds join a collection of<br />

significant diamond recoveries in <strong>2021</strong> produced from<br />

the EM/PK (s) which forms a key economic driver for the<br />

proposed uncoloured mine at Karowe.”<br />

6<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


News<br />

Alternate industry strategies of<br />

online business<br />

A recently released study by the leading consulting house<br />

McKinsey and Company, estimated that the ecommerce<br />

jewellery market will double in size between 2019 and<br />

2025, attaining a market share 18 to 21 percent of<br />

global fine jewellery sales, or $60 to $80 billion in annual<br />

turnover.<br />

The industry is at an inflection point, and almost certainly<br />

undergoing its most comprehensive transformation in<br />

living memory. And while the process of change has been<br />

inevitable, it has been accelerated considerably by the<br />

COVID-19 pandemic, as companies scrambled to develop<br />

online capacity in order to survive the lockdowns that were<br />

widely imposed at the start of the crisis.<br />

Rough market thrives in Antwerp and outperforms 2019<br />

Figures on the rough diamond trade in Antwerp in the first six months of the year<br />

demonstrate the city is back on track of the pre-pandemic upturn seen in the first<br />

few months of 2020, outperforming 2019 figures on rough trade with double digit<br />

growth. Polished trade, still suffering from the lack of trade shows and the effects<br />

of the pandemic in India, shows encouraging signs of recovering to normal levels.<br />

Antwerp hosted more than 75 diamond tenders in the first six months of the year,<br />

boosted by strong rough prices and the city’s unrivalled critical mass of buyers and<br />

sellers.<br />

“Despite the lingering constraints of the pandemic, with second and third waves<br />

in many places around the world, Antwerp has proven to be a safe haven for<br />

producers to sell their rough, where they can achieve consistent, high value for<br />

their goods,” said Karen Rentmeesters of the Antwerp <strong>World</strong> Diamond Centre.<br />

In H1, Antwerp imported US$5bn worth of rough diamonds, compared to<br />

US$2.7bn in H1 of the pandemic year 2020 and US$4.3bn in 2019, up nearly 15%<br />

y-o-y comparing <strong>2021</strong> with the last “normal” year 2019.<br />

While the rough business is booming, polished trade is lagging behind somewhat.<br />

“Since the outbreak of the pandemic, there have been no trade shows<br />

whatsoever, which traditionally create a lot of movement of polished goods in the<br />

industry. In addition, the devastating third wave in India in the first half of this year<br />

had a major impact on the somewhat slower trend of polished business picking<br />

up throughout the global industry, but the last three months show positive signs,”<br />

said Karen. In April, polished imports in volume in Antwerp equaled 2019 levels,<br />

jumping over the June 2019 figures and a similar trend is noticeable for polished<br />

exports.”<br />

The shift to digital business environments has been<br />

pervasive, permeating all stages of the value chain and<br />

almost all jewellery, gemstone and precious metals sectors.<br />

It is also disruptive, rendering certain business models<br />

obsolete, while providing a range of new opportunities and<br />

capabilities to those who have the capacity and acumen to<br />

thrive according to the new sets of rules.<br />

CIBJO’s July seminar looked at digital strategies and<br />

navigating jewellery’s most promising frontier. A recording<br />

of the seminar is available, along with all recent Season 2<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices seminars, on the CIBJO website.<br />

A third season of the free CIBJO seminars will return in<br />

September.<br />

The Golden Lung Necklace<br />

A giant gold necklace worn by model Bella Hadid has<br />

created a sensation at the Cannes film festival.<br />

Hadid’s haute couture gown by<br />

Schiaparelli was cut low and wide<br />

to expose her bare chest. Her<br />

modesty was preserved by the<br />

elaborate gilded brass necklace,<br />

also from Schiaparelli, which was<br />

shaped like a pair of human lungs<br />

suspended from a heavy chain<br />

around her neck.<br />

Hadid’s accessories included a Phoenix ring from Chopard’s<br />

Red Carpet Collection and a pair of 18 carat rose gold<br />

Chopard earrings featuring 24.97-carats of rubies and<br />

diamonds.<br />

8<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


ENTRIES<br />

NOW<br />

INVITED<br />

Public Tender No. 2 November <strong>2021</strong><br />

The Fitzpatrick Pink Sold for A$2.2million a new<br />

<strong>World</strong> Auction Record for any Argyle diamond.<br />

Refer your client’s fancy coloured diamond to our<br />

next tender and earn an introductory commission.<br />

We collect and deliver from and to the trade free<br />

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See our sale results at yourdiamonds.com<br />

C ASH OFFER TO<br />

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News<br />

Has Tiffany gone yellow?<br />

The distinctive robin egg shade of blue, known<br />

colloquially as Tiffany Blue, has been synonymous with<br />

the Tiffany & Co brand since the company’s inception in<br />

1837. The Tiffany Blue Box became one of the greatest<br />

marketing success stories, as it continues to be coveted<br />

as much as the jewellery item inside the box.<br />

In January this year, Tiffany & Co was acquired by LVMH,<br />

the world’s leading luxury products group, and on April<br />

1, #TiffanyYellow was announced. This daring switch<br />

to lemon yellow is a strategy to appeal to younger<br />

generations, and Tiffany Yellow will be featured in select<br />

stores around the globe.<br />

Alrosa introduces nanomarking technology to trace diamonds<br />

Alrosa, Russian miner and the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds by<br />

carats, has introduced a ground-breaking diamond-tracing technology using<br />

non-invasive laser marking. Unlike traditional laser engraving, this laser marking<br />

cannot be destroyed or polished off. It distinguishes Alrosa’s diamonds from<br />

others, including lab-grown, and allows them to be uniquely identified, providing<br />

detailed information about the diamonds’ origins.<br />

The bold shade does have a historical link to Tiffany &<br />

Co’s history, as founder Charles Lewis Tiffany purchased<br />

the 130-carat Tiffany Yellow Diamond, which is currently<br />

displayed in the Beverly Hills store.<br />

Consumer surveys in the key diamond markets of the United States and China<br />

indicate that diamond tracing is an important factor when making purchases.<br />

Tracing involves registering all stages of a diamond’s life from the mine to the<br />

jewellery store to guarantee its origin.<br />

Unlike other tracing methods which are based on keeping a digital copy of the<br />

diamond, Alrosa’s physical nanomarking allows the stone to be identified with 100<br />

percent accuracy. It also differs from other engraving technologies which mark<br />

closer to the surface of the diamond. The laser nanomark is imprinted inside<br />

the crystal lattice, across the atomic structure of the entire diamond, making<br />

it invisible without a scanner. Diamonds with such nanomarkings have been<br />

successfully certified by the GIA, the industry’s biggest certification centre.<br />

The mark is a three-dimensional code linked to the Alrosa Provenance platform. It<br />

offers in-depth information about the diamond's origin and characteristics, as well<br />

as a unique identification number, photo, video and details about how it has been<br />

cut. Scientists believe that, as the technology evolves, it is likely to become an<br />

important way of embedding large amounts of data within the diamond, including<br />

media files, images and music.<br />

WFDB starts vaccine fund for India<br />

The <strong>World</strong> Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB)<br />

has started a drive to raise funds to help India in its<br />

fight against COVID-19 with the aim to provide free<br />

vaccinations to diamond workers in India.<br />

The program will vaccinate 5,000 diamond cutters in its<br />

first stage.<br />

Diamond Aid, the program led by the WFDB, has raised<br />

thousands of dollars from individual and industry<br />

organisations.<br />

At the time of printing, India was averaging 42,000 new<br />

cases per day with 6.3% of the population fully vaccinated<br />

against COVID-19.<br />

10<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


A L L O Y S<br />

P R O M<br />

I S E<br />

P<br />

P<br />

R<br />

I C E<br />

B E A T<br />

G U A R A N T E E


PALLOYS POINTS<br />

Chris Botha,<br />

Operations Manager, <strong>Jewellery</strong> Division<br />

Palloys<br />

‘THINKING AND TINKERING’<br />

AT THE HEART OF INNOVATION<br />

Think like your clients.<br />

Palloys announced the introduction of<br />

their new Innovation Division a few<br />

short weeks ago, and already there is<br />

excitement in the air.<br />

Some may be wondering why Palloys needs a<br />

dedicated research and development arm. The<br />

industry has progressed significantly in recent<br />

years, what could there be left to create?<br />

Palloys believes that failure to innovate is<br />

failure to prepare for the future.<br />

This new department will serve four key<br />

purposes: to develop market leading<br />

technology solutions for our customers,<br />

to introduce new and innovative products<br />

and services to the Australian market, to<br />

improve the quality and consistency of our<br />

manufacturing (by upgrading equipment,<br />

facilities and process improvement), and to<br />

streamline processes to reduce turnaround<br />

times and minimise costs, with savings in time<br />

and money benefitting you, our clients.<br />

The goal is for our new Innovation Division<br />

to ‘plug in’ to all Palloys’ services including<br />

fabricated metals, findings, design, print,<br />

casting, refining, diamonds and finishing, and<br />

ensure our clients are getting access to the<br />

best products in the industry.<br />

The industry has already incorporated<br />

technology and has linked old processes with<br />

new.<br />

Now is the time to engage with clients to meet<br />

their needs and take those learnings to the<br />

entire industry. We want to reverse engineer<br />

what the sector needs, so to speak. Look at<br />

what the tools and manufacturing arm now<br />

has and what they may need in the future.<br />

We want to employ this insight we gain as a<br />

key supplier in the Australian market while<br />

listening to our clients. This way we help two<br />

segments at once.<br />

Internally our processes become more efficient<br />

with our clients receiving a better quality<br />

product. Essentially, we power up our tools<br />

within, so we can solve problems on both<br />

sides of the value chain.<br />

What we’re saying is that here at Palloys<br />

we are prepared to back emerging market<br />

demand from our clients' requests. We will<br />

push to deliver a better final product which<br />

will help guide our future processes.<br />

Think like your clients<br />

While large chunks of our business are looking<br />

at improving efficiencies across the supply<br />

chain, a very small part will the ‘thinking and<br />

tinkering’.<br />

The last mile<br />

Arguably our Innovation Division is about<br />

trying to see what “the last mile” looks like.<br />

14<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Exclusive Awareness Necklace<br />

Proudly supporting National Breast Cancer Foundation<br />

Just because something has always been done that way, doesn’t<br />

mean it’s the only way to do it.<br />

Our Innovation Division may be able to identify better ways of doing<br />

things. These are the easy wins.<br />

The longer aspect – and arguably more risky aspect –is the cost of<br />

long term innovation.<br />

IP500NSS-RGP<br />

Ikecho Basket Collection<br />

Is there a new product that does not exist that should exist, and can<br />

we reasonably expect a customer to buy that? That can be a risk.<br />

You can go out<br />

and spend a lot of<br />

money on hope and<br />

a dream that you've<br />

built the thing<br />

that everybody is<br />

going to want…<br />

and it turns out<br />

the market has no<br />

interest in the idea.<br />

Therefore, we must analyse the sector holistically.<br />

This can be a trap for anyone in innovation. Just because you want it<br />

doesn’t mean a client will.<br />

IP500-9YGD-1<br />

IP500NSS-W<br />

Nonetheless I’m very excited to be heading up this department. We<br />

here at Palloys have spent years asking ‘what if’ and ‘can we’, yet<br />

we haven’t had the dedicated resources to execute all our ideas and<br />

proposed methodologies.<br />

All smart companies understand that innovation is critical to progress.<br />

Palloys is thrilled to be at the forefront to help drive the industry<br />

forward.<br />

IP500NSS-WS<br />

LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY<br />

www.ikecho.com.au | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />

Tel: (02) 9266 0636


WHEN DO YOU STOP<br />

SPENDING MONEY ON<br />

A LOST CAUSE?<br />

Without doubt, one of the hardest things to do is admit failure.<br />

In business, we are constantly looking for the next great product,<br />

idea, software, employee, equipment, and anything else that will<br />

help grow our business.<br />

Sometimes you’re lucky. A good example<br />

was those retailers who introduced<br />

Pandora into their stores in early 2000.<br />

They rode its wave of success and some still<br />

do so today. Some might consider themselves<br />

as lucky and some had previous experience<br />

to identify a winning formulae. The majority<br />

just watched what the early adopters did and<br />

followed.<br />

I discussed the concept of taking risks and first<br />

mover advantage with a colleague, however<br />

I could see that they couldn’t really relate. At<br />

first I struggled to understand why.<br />

Then it dawned on me. They don’t look to<br />

change anything around them. They don’t like<br />

change and they don’t really look to improve,<br />

other than some small things that are forced<br />

upon them (like a QR code). Business to them<br />

comes and goes. Why get a new piece of<br />

software? It just means you need to learn how<br />

to use it. If they do bring on a new product, it’s<br />

probably because it has been in the market for<br />

a year or two and safe enough to try it now.<br />

This isn’t such a bad approach. It’s safe<br />

and suits people who are risk averse. A<br />

smart businessperson needs to know their<br />

limitations. Perhaps they’re just sick and tired<br />

of spending money on lost causes, so they just<br />

go with the tried and tested.<br />

I don’t criticise this approach. I respect that<br />

not everyone enjoys taking risks.<br />

I do (surprise, surprise).<br />

I personally feel that if I’m not constantly<br />

looking at ways to improve my business and<br />

looking to see what other industries are<br />

doing that I can use in my business, I’m falling<br />

behind.<br />

So is there a formulae to know when to stop<br />

spending money on a lost cause and more<br />

importantly, identifying a lost cause before we<br />

pour money down the drain?<br />

Here are some simple useful tools you might<br />

want to think about.<br />

Let’s use an example of buying some new<br />

software.<br />

I know this sounds obvious, but I strongly<br />

recommend that you write down a list of what<br />

it is that you want this software to do for you.<br />

What gains do you hope to achieve? How<br />

long do you think it will take you to learn it,<br />

or pull out the key benefits? By this I mean,<br />

set a clear date as to when realistically you<br />

are confident that you will get a good handle<br />

on the software and be able to measure its<br />

success.<br />

Just like any new product you bring to your<br />

business, setting a goal and a timeline to<br />

achieve it is so important, and share it with<br />

others to keep you honest.<br />

In our business, we are forever examining<br />

new types of software that we can integrate<br />

into what we do. It is also not uncommon in<br />

today’s world that before you make any major<br />

investment, that you ask the vendor for a<br />

proof of concept. This would mean that they<br />

would help you take a sample of data, analyse<br />

it for you and give you some insights into your<br />

business.<br />

Who will learn to use it in the business? It<br />

must be more than one person. If it’s you, the<br />

owner, you need a strong backup person.<br />

16<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


DDCA NEWS<br />

Rami Baron<br />

President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />

rami@ddca.org.au<br />

It’s too easy to spend the money with the best<br />

of intentions and convince yourself that the<br />

reason why you haven’t executed the project<br />

in a reasonable timeline is because you were<br />

busy with other things. That’s normally a<br />

cop-out.<br />

It’s hard to make changes. It’s harder to be<br />

accountable, especially to yourself. It’s even<br />

harder to admit you have made a mistake and<br />

it wasn’t a good investment.<br />

There is a time when you literally need to cut<br />

the cord and admit openly that it was mistake<br />

and write off the expense.<br />

Last year, we invested in developing a<br />

new piece of software which incorporated<br />

AI. The people behind it were extremely<br />

accomplished and experienced. We had a<br />

clear timeline, we had our other programmers<br />

participate in the integration, and twice<br />

we revised the delivery date. That’s still<br />

acceptable if things are moving forward.<br />

On the day we were given the run through, it<br />

was clear that the software could not deliver<br />

the results. It was suggested to me that we<br />

should look to see what we could salvage,<br />

because we had made a considerable financial<br />

investment. My response - “the only thing we<br />

salvage is the experience of what not to do<br />

next time”. We tried, we had clear objectives,<br />

we had clear timelines and it failed.<br />

The question we need to ask ourselves is<br />

that when we embark on a new project or<br />

employ a new person, whom we have spent<br />

a considerable amount of time and money<br />

training, at what point do we admit failure or<br />

that they are not working out.<br />

Employing new people, is an incredibly<br />

expensive process. Not only financially, but<br />

the time it takes for everyone to help train this<br />

person. What do your current employment<br />

contracts say? Three months or six months<br />

trial? I personally think that if you can’t be<br />

sure in three months that the person is right,<br />

you’re wasting your time.<br />

There needs to be some sort of deliverables<br />

or skills that the person is displaying that gives<br />

you confidence that they are a good fit within<br />

your company.<br />

The biggest problem we have is that often<br />

we like someone, but that doesn’t mean that<br />

they are the right person for the job. Next<br />

time you employ someone, think about setting<br />

them three goals that are measurable within<br />

the three-month timeframe. They need to be<br />

clear goals, so if it doesn’t work out it’s not a<br />

personal attack, but based on black-and-white<br />

key performance indicators.<br />

Running a business isn’t easy, otherwise<br />

everyone would do it. We have finite<br />

resources of time and money. Sometimes<br />

you need to be hard and more importantly,<br />

honest. Especially with yourself.<br />

Developing the business skills of knowing<br />

when to stop spending money on a lost cause<br />

could well be the difference between staying<br />

in business and not.<br />

Trade well,,, Rami Baron.<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 17


PRESIDENT'S<br />

MESSAGE<br />

Jo Tory<br />

At the time of writing this message Greater Sydney is in the midst<br />

of the strictest lockdown this state has experienced.<br />

We all know how disruptive and<br />

confusing it can be – how and<br />

where we work, what is essential,<br />

how to stay in touch with our customers.<br />

Needless to say it makes tough trading times<br />

even tougher.<br />

With such uncertainty and the fact that<br />

situations can change overnight, it is so<br />

hard to plan. It is precisely because of these<br />

unpredictable times that the JAA has needed<br />

to postpone the biennial Awards Program that<br />

was due to be judged in <strong>August</strong>.<br />

Entries are now due by the 9 November,<br />

which will be welcome news to some of the<br />

entrants, giving them more time to work<br />

on their fabulous creations. It is always so<br />

fascinating to see the inherent ingenuity<br />

and skill in the pieces that are entered, and<br />

the diversity of design and approach is so<br />

refreshing!<br />

The winners of the Awards will be announced<br />

at the JAA 90th birthday and Awards soiree<br />

on the 6 February in Melbourne. This will be<br />

held in the Evergreen Room at the Crown,<br />

conveniently at the same time as the <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Industry Fair in Melbourne.<br />

The inaugural <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Summit<br />

was held on 9th and 10th July in Adelaide<br />

and was the first face to face event in such a<br />

long time. Due to the snap border closures, it<br />

was unfortunately only visitors from SA and<br />

Victoria that could attend. However, even<br />

though thus restricted it is very refreshing to<br />

know that the Summit went ahead and was a<br />

very positive success. It is the first of its kind<br />

and takes a very holistic approach, covering<br />

many areas of the industry. I am sure there<br />

will be many more to come. Some of the<br />

workshops will be available to view on the<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Network Platform shortly.<br />

Soon we will be sending out our annual<br />

members’ survey and I would encourage as<br />

many of you as possible to participate. It is<br />

in this way that the JAA learns what are the<br />

needs of the industry, what suggestions you<br />

have and how the industry is changing. This<br />

data very much helps us to know what is<br />

needed and how to support you as an industry<br />

member.<br />

The JAA would love to receive some<br />

expressions of interest from volunteers who<br />

would like to participate in the JAA State<br />

Committees. It is always beneficial to get<br />

together with others from the same industry,<br />

to discuss and exchange ideas, to learn and<br />

improve, to share information. Please let<br />

us know if you would like to be part of this<br />

initiative and we can help with ideas for<br />

events (no lockdowns permitting!)<br />

If you are interested, please email Megan at<br />

info@jaa.com.au<br />

All the best to everyone and stay safe.<br />

18<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />

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By Stefan Juengling<br />

Creative craftspeople at the<br />

cutting edge of the green scene:<br />

AUSTRALIA’S ETHICAL JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

While some might consider the Australian jewellery industry as lagging behind other industries in<br />

terms of environmental, ethical and sustainable practices, there are some trailblazers setting the<br />

standard for others to follow. We spoke to some of them here to get their take on how Australia’s<br />

jewellery industry is progressing when it comes to love for jewellery, people and the planet.<br />

Are blood diamonds truly a thing<br />

of the past?<br />

The 2006 blockbuster film Blood Diamond<br />

gave wide exposure to a problem long known<br />

in the jewellery industry: that the diamond<br />

mining industry is harmful to developing<br />

nations and third-world diamond miners. In<br />

2003, the Kimberley Process was implemented<br />

which sets out requirements for controlling<br />

rough diamonds and trade, and effectively<br />

prevents ‘conflict diamonds’ from entering the<br />

mainstream rough diamond market. 18 years<br />

after the implementation, our contributors<br />

had mixed responses as to how the ethical<br />

diamond scene has progressed since then.<br />

Utopian Creations is an Adelaide-based ethical<br />

bespoke jeweller operating since 2005, and<br />

director Ben Manning said the Kimberley<br />

Process was successful in the specific goal of<br />

preventing the sale of diamonds to fund militia<br />

violence, but that’s all.<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />

“It can’t stop governments from selling<br />

diamonds to fund violence (such as that which<br />

occurred in Zimbabwe by Robert Mugabe), it<br />

doesn’t stop environmental damage or all the<br />

other social impacts that can happen from<br />

diamond mining,” he said.<br />

“The Kimberley Process was not set up to<br />

determine the ethical nature of a diamond<br />

and it does not serve that purpose.”<br />

Ben praised the fact that the mined diamond<br />

industry has changed for the better over<br />

the past 20 years, with great advances in<br />

environmental stewardship in some countries<br />

along with co-operation with indigenous<br />

groups.<br />

“However some parts of the world are still<br />

languishing with child/forced labour in both<br />

the mining and cutting industries.<br />

“Improved traceability and guidance by<br />

industry bodies, public, private and NGO's will<br />

help greatly into the future.”<br />

Also founded in 2005, Inspira Diamonds is a<br />

Perth-based wholesale diamond distributor<br />

which provides a platform for diamond goods<br />

with sound provenance. Company director<br />

Steve McClelland and director of marketing<br />

Charmaine Thane both said that the ethical<br />

diamond industry had progressed significantly<br />

since the company’s founding, and thanks to<br />

ethical diamond brands such as theirs driving<br />

change from the supply end of the chain.<br />

“The raising of awareness in the ‘ethical<br />

gem’ community and driven by consumer<br />

consciousness has also assisted considerably,”<br />

they said.<br />

They also pointed to Argyle’s closure which<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />

Inspira Diamonds<br />

22<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


leaves open<br />

the question<br />

as to the next<br />

major source<br />

of ethical<br />

diamonds to the<br />

international<br />

jewellery<br />

community.<br />

Benn Harvey-Walker from online-only<br />

Queensland-based ethical jewellery brand<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia echoed Ben<br />

Manning’s message about the Kimberley<br />

Process failing to be a panacea.<br />

“Is the problem of blood diamonds behind us?<br />

It’s probably fair to say it’s largely in remission,<br />

but there are no guarantees the problem<br />

won’t remerge given the right (or wrong)<br />

circumstances reappearing in diamond rich,<br />

politically unstable developing nations,” he<br />

said.<br />

“The ethical diamond<br />

industry has made some<br />

significant inroads into<br />

improving transparency<br />

and raising public<br />

awareness, which is undoubtedly a good<br />

thing.”<br />

Inspira Diamonds<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

Sydney-based founder/jeweller Zoe Pook<br />

of her eponymous jewellery brand agreed<br />

that the Kimberley Process has its flaws, one<br />

notable flaw in the Process certification being<br />

the Marange Diamonds inclusion.<br />

“When Mugabe took over the Marange<br />

diamond fields in Zimbabwe in 2008,<br />

hundreds of people were killed but they were<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

still included in the certification process,” she<br />

said.<br />

“As the Kimberley Process focuses solely on<br />

distribution and sales it tends to turn a blind<br />

eye to human rights and worker exploitation.”<br />

Lab grown diamonds’ place in the<br />

ethical scene<br />

Lab grown/lab created diamonds (LGD) have<br />

been the new kid on the block and has seen<br />

impressive growth in recent years, with even<br />

claims of being a more ethical choice than its<br />

natural counterpart.<br />

Steve and Charmaine’s personal opinions are<br />

that LGDs are a convenient alternative and just<br />

that.<br />

“Primarily due to the fact that there are no<br />

new diamond sources of the magnitude of<br />

Argyle, Diavik etc,” they said.<br />

However they both levelled criticism at LGDs’<br />

high energy costs and questionable economic<br />

value.<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

“Not only has their energy usage been<br />

brought to question, they provide no<br />

economic value to the industry in terms of<br />

royalties to governments, employment, or any<br />

kind of beneficiation to the people, other than<br />

to the manufacturer itself!” they said.<br />

“(Whereas) when a diamond goes from<br />

rough values to jewellery value through the<br />

value chain, there are numerous participants<br />

and commercial stimulation for multiple<br />

economies, not one manufacturer.”<br />

Zoe said LGDs are conflict-free, but conceded<br />

that nothing in the diamond industry is totally<br />

ethically clean or sustainably produced.<br />

“However, there are ways to make the best<br />

choice you can for your client,” she said.<br />

“I inform my clients about everything I know<br />

(about LGDs).”<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

Zoe Pook acquires their LGDs from The<br />

Diamond Foundry, who in Zoe’s opinion, are<br />

doing their best with regard to sustainable<br />

goals.<br />

The place LGDs will play in ethical jewellery<br />

is completely up to the growers and miners<br />

themselves, according to Ben.<br />

“In some cases LGDs would have a far lower<br />

environmental impact than mined diamonds,<br />

however in other cases it would be the mined<br />

diamonds that would have a lower impact,”<br />

he said.<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 23


“The problem for jewellers and consumers<br />

is that most diamonds whether mined or<br />

lab-grown don’t come with information about<br />

origin… without this it’s very hard to make a<br />

claim that one or the other is better for our<br />

planet and communities.”<br />

Ben also praised Diamond Foundry who play a<br />

major role in the eco-conscious LGD scene.<br />

For Benn at Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia, LGDs<br />

are an accepted part of the ethical and<br />

mainstream jewellery markets, and also<br />

ethically sound for the simple fact that LGDs<br />

aren’t mined.<br />

“That is, the environmental damage (not just<br />

carbon emissions) from mining weigh more<br />

heavily than anything else,” he said.<br />

Benn acknowledged LGDs’ large carbon<br />

footprint and said for this reason there are<br />

good and not-so-good producers.<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

“Our preferred suppliers use renewable<br />

energy in the manufacture and cutting of their<br />

diamonds, so we get the best of both worlds.”<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

Precious<br />

metals of<br />

provenance<br />

With initiatives like<br />

Fair Trade Gold,<br />

Fairmined Gold<br />

and Single Mine<br />

Origin (SMO) Gold, it would seem gold is<br />

much further ahead than diamonds in terms<br />

of traceability, ethical mining and trade, with<br />

seemingly far more options in the market for<br />

ethical gold.<br />

Inspira Diamonds<br />

Benn said that Fair Trade, Fairmined and<br />

SMO gold purveyors have generally improved<br />

traceability by isolating their supply chains<br />

from mainstream markets.<br />

“Typically a reseller will need to be licenced by<br />

the marketing body before they can promote<br />

themselves as a user/supplier of the product,”<br />

he said.<br />

“In this way, Fairmined, Fair Trade or SMO gold<br />

can be traced back to the mine or mines it<br />

originated from.”<br />

He said that marketing bodies such as<br />

fairmined.org that aggregate their gold supply<br />

from various certified mining operations<br />

to ensure miners are relatively well paid,<br />

their working<br />

conditions are<br />

relatively safe,<br />

the mining<br />

operations are as<br />

environmentally<br />

conscientious<br />

as they can<br />

Chemgold<br />

be, and their<br />

communities are well supported.<br />

“To this extent, Fair Trade/Fairmined gold<br />

represents a responsible sourcing option.”<br />

Chemgold is a Sydney-based precious metal<br />

supplier, jewellery service business and a<br />

member of the Responsible <strong>Jewellery</strong> Council<br />

operating for more than 30 years. Director<br />

Darren Sher said that their business only uses<br />

precious metals mined with an eco-friendly<br />

approach.<br />

“Protecting human rights and upholding our<br />

social responsibility<br />

are also key factors in<br />

our manufacturing<br />

process,” he said.<br />

Their supply chain<br />

policy mandates<br />

that precious<br />

metals supplied from<br />

Chemgold are not acquired through human<br />

rights violations such as child labour or<br />

slavery, do not serve or support criminal or<br />

terrorist activities such as money laundering,<br />

and were not<br />

extracted or<br />

processed in<br />

ways which<br />

destroy the<br />

earth’s surface<br />

or harms the<br />

environment.<br />

Chemgold<br />

“We demand<br />

corresponding<br />

evidence from our suppliers and actively<br />

support them in implementing these values in<br />

their supply chain,” Darren said.<br />

For Zoe, Fair Trade, Fairmined and SMO gold<br />

are the only certifications which guarantee<br />

the gold’s origin and make an actual difference<br />

to the amount of artisanal gold miners in<br />

the industry, where<br />

health and safety<br />

conditions are poor<br />

and corruption is rife.<br />

“I could buy<br />

‘Australian Gold’ but<br />

who is that helping?<br />

Rich mine owners,<br />

that’s who. It’s not an<br />

‘ethical’ choice,” she<br />

said.<br />

Chemgold<br />

Ben Manning said<br />

that Fair Trade,<br />

Fairmined and SMO<br />

gold has shone a small spotlight on the issues<br />

and shown what’s possible forresponsible gold<br />

mining and traceability. However, he doesn’t<br />

believe that it has yet changed the enormous<br />

problems with Artisanal and Small Scale gold<br />

Mining (ASM) around the world.<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />

24<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


“In most cases ASM is far worse for the environment and communities<br />

than gemstone mining... the environmental impacts can be devastating<br />

both locally and internationally from rainforest clearing to the rising<br />

amount of mercury in our seas,” he said.<br />

“The processes laid down by Fair Trade and Fairmined gold should be<br />

a blueprint for the industry to follow and for governments around the<br />

world to try to implement before more land is destroyed.”<br />

Sustainability all starts small<br />

Chemgold<br />

The brands we spoke to are not just sourcing ethical gold, diamonds and<br />

gems, they have also implemented some environmentally-friendly and<br />

sustainable in-house processes into their businesses, and invested in<br />

philanthropic programs to make real change on the ground.<br />

Ben said Utopian Creations was founded as a sustainably-focused<br />

jeweller, which meant that they looked at each input, output and<br />

process carefully and assessed ways to reduce any negative impacts<br />

as far as possible, or in some cases eliminating some altogether.<br />

As such, they’ve used 100% green power since the company’s<br />

inception; in the past they used a combination of recycled precious<br />

metals and Fairtrade metals, whereas now they are transitioning to<br />

Australian gold.<br />

“Our gems and diamonds are predominantly Australian, around<br />

95%,” Ben said.<br />

“In our workshop we use a plant-based polishing compound, make<br />

our own polishing buffs from certified organic cotton and reusable<br />

spindles, and we use citric acid pickle.<br />

“Even our packaging is<br />

carefully considered, our<br />

jewellery boxes are made<br />

from certified Australian<br />

timbers and our outer<br />

packaging is all made from<br />

100% recycled card printed<br />

with vegetable inks.”<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia


Darren said that Chemgold has thorough processes in place to<br />

efficiently produce gold with minimal waste. In addition, they<br />

have taken every measure to protect its staff and the environment<br />

through their casting process by importing state-of-the-art German<br />

and Japanese kilns which are built into an exhaust system with after<br />

burners which makes possible complete non-smell, non-pollution<br />

furnaces. Their slurry waste from investing and casting is filtered so<br />

that none of it ends up in the sewerage system and is collected yearly<br />

by a specialised environmentally friendly company.<br />

At Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia, Benn said they plant two trees for every<br />

jewellery piece they make through working with Carbon Positive<br />

Australia. In addition, they have a sponsor relationship with an<br />

international development non-profit called Pact which works on the<br />

ground in nearly 40 countries to end poverty and marginalisation.<br />

“We chose Pact because they support artisanal miners in developing<br />

nations, particularly in the coloured<br />

gemstone space – an important<br />

subset of the fine jewellery<br />

industry,” he said.<br />

“In particular, we sponsor their<br />

Mines to Markets initiative,”<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />

Steve and Charmaine said that since Inspira Diamonds is a small<br />

business so is their carbon footprint, and in 2014 they revamped<br />

their ‘output’ to remove the use of plastics in their certificate covers,<br />

displays and boxes, thereby reducing their use and need for plastics.<br />

“This involved significant product re-design…(but) we are very happy<br />

with the outcome,” they said.<br />

Zoe Pook said she uses compostable packaging for her products and<br />

her business runs off green power.<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />

Time to buy Australian-made<br />

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ELIA COLLECTION<br />

Ethical jewellery<br />

as mainstream<br />

Now is the time, says Palloys’ Chris Botha. An<br />

ethical jewellery industry is the inevitable future,<br />

and businesses should get on board now.<br />

Palloys is fortunate to operate under the Pallion umbrella giving us<br />

access to gold and silver from our sister company, ABC Refinery,<br />

which is London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) accredited.<br />

This assures our clients of the ethical sourcing of their materials, but<br />

also comes with the satisfaction of knowing that our metals are not just<br />

ethical but meet strict international guidelines. There are less than 64<br />

refineries in the world that have LBMA accreditation.<br />

In addition, Palloys is a certified member of the Responsible Jewelry<br />

Council (RJC). It’s important to note that while anyone can apply to being<br />

a member of the RJC, not everyone is certified by RJC.<br />

But as proud as we are of certification, that is just the beginning. You<br />

only need to look at the global car industry as an example. In the past<br />

decade there have been several emission targets introduced, each one<br />

more stringent than the last. These sustainability concerns aren’t going<br />

away. Any changes to emissions will only get tighter and tighter. The<br />

jewellery industry will likely mirror this at some point.<br />

At Palloys we have opted to<br />

be an industry leader and see<br />

the rules around sustainability<br />

guidelines as something to<br />

exceed, not merely a target.<br />

The onus should be on every<br />

company to lead the way. We<br />

should all aim to be showing<br />

that the regulations should try and catch up to us. There’s no law that<br />

says you can’t use paper, yet it’s commonly used. Does that mean it’s<br />

best practice? Businesses should aim to be market leaders in this area.<br />

Palloys’ sister company, ABC Refinery<br />

Pallion and Palloys choose to be a market leader every day. We look<br />

to move forward. We have multiple companies that we use to recycle<br />

products we can’t internally reuse. We don’t toss things into landfill.<br />

Yes, this is an expensive process, but our clients expect us to be industry<br />

leaders in this regard. Together with our clients and partners, we<br />

understand it’s better to invest in sustainable practices now.<br />

Consumers want action. Lip service is no longer excusable at the retail<br />

end. Consumers are aware of the environmental impacts that come<br />

from consumption, and they want to know that their purchases aren’t<br />

contributing to unethical practices.<br />

My advice to jewellery companies looking to become sustainability<br />

leaders? Investigate your supplier. Don’t buy stuff randomly. Ask<br />

hard questions. Your supplier should be an open book and want to<br />

demonstrate their ethical responsibilities.<br />

Supporting retailers with unique,<br />

quality designs for over 30 years.<br />

+61 2 9452 4981 | hello@pastiche.com.au<br />

@pastichejewellery /pastichejewellery<br />

R


By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />

LAUNCHING INTO<br />

A NEW SEASON<br />

Mike Granshaw, General Manager of Palloys, gives his expert advice on<br />

how to design and launch your next jewellery collection.<br />

Palloys<br />

While Australians hibernate through<br />

a winter of self-isolation, the<br />

jewellery industry is looking ahead<br />

to a brighter time, as they gear up to launch<br />

new collections and ranges ahead of the<br />

Christmas and Summer 21/22 seasons. Mike<br />

Granshaw, general manager of Palloys, says<br />

that offering new collections to customers<br />

is very important, and that the jewellery<br />

industry could follow the example of the<br />

fashion industry by bringing at least four<br />

ranges to market per year.<br />

“Collections don’t need to be massive and<br />

take over the whole store,” Mike said. “Start<br />

small and build up from there.”<br />

New technologies allow jewellers to achieve<br />

this without looking overseas. Indeed, recent<br />

times have brought new opportunities in this<br />

regard as more and more consumers actively<br />

seek to support local manufacturers and buy<br />

local.<br />

Palloys is the largest jewellery manufacturer<br />

in Australia, partnering with jewellers and<br />

retailers to design, manufacture and launch<br />

their upcoming ranges from the initial<br />

concept right through to delivering the<br />

finished piece ready to present to the end<br />

customer.<br />

Finding inspiration<br />

Every jeweller and retailer find their own<br />

unique source of inspiration, often developing<br />

a signature theme that individualises their<br />

brand. Mike says that Palloys’ clients build<br />

collections inspired by nature, art, architecture<br />

and fashion and sometime reference long-held<br />

traditions.<br />

“The Palloys Design team can partner with<br />

you to design and manufacture your dream<br />

collection, delivering the highest quality finish<br />

for your customers.”<br />

CAD technology has become instrumental<br />

in bringing these visions into reality, in an<br />

efficient and cost-effective manner.<br />

“CAD technology has enabled jewellers and<br />

retailers to create complex designs with<br />

precision, making production quicker and<br />

more affordable than ever before,” said Mike.<br />

“The sky is the limit when it comes to using<br />

CAD for jewellery, but the importance of<br />

designing for the casting process and with the<br />

bench jeweller in mind is often overlooked.<br />

Above and right: Livadi, by Palloys<br />

28<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


BDS_Ad_280x96_jul<strong>2021</strong>.pdf 1 13/7/21 11:14 am<br />

481023<br />

“When you design your next range with Palloys, you can work directly<br />

with the industry’s most experienced design team, who work hand in<br />

hand with the team who casts, and can even finish the jewellery.”<br />

481026<br />

Appealing to the target customer<br />

Any customer-facing jewellery business needs to identify their unique<br />

customer demographic, so they can focus on meeting their customer’s<br />

demands.<br />

“Partnering with Palloys brings together the jeweller’s customer<br />

expertise and our ‘design to finish’ capability to produce product ranges<br />

that are relevant and tailored to the target customer profile,” said Mike.<br />

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Customer feedback can be applied to ensure that future product ranges<br />

continue to appeal to the target customer. In any product range, some<br />

individual products will stand out, and Mike says it is important to<br />

recognise and act upon this information drawn from customer response.<br />

“As each range is brought to market the customer feedback and sales<br />

performance statistics are extremely important in building future<br />

products and ranges,” said Mike.<br />

“The Palloys Design team is supported by unmatched printing capacity,<br />

producing the industry’s highest resolution in both wax and resin, which<br />

means less time spent cleaning up at the bench and less gold and silver<br />

ending up in the sweeps! We can educate you on the best practices to<br />

create the most reliable CAD designs, including where to sprue, ideal<br />

prong heights and widths and the recommended depths for engraving.”<br />

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Mike says that the Palloys Design team also<br />

offers the option of creating renders of a<br />

retailer’s designs as a sales feature for their<br />

customers.<br />

“Bringing a life-like element to the design is<br />

an imminent part of the selling process,” said<br />

Mike. “Rendering in the modern age is of such<br />

a quality, it could almost pass as life-like.”<br />

There are some characteristics of today’s<br />

jewellery customer that encompass every<br />

market niche. Today’s customer is concerned<br />

about ethical practice in the jewellery<br />

industry, so they want to know more about<br />

the provenance of stones and precious metals.<br />

As the jewellery industry faces growing<br />

demand for ethically or responsibly sourced<br />

materials and increased questioning about the<br />

source of our precious metals, Mike says that<br />

all of Palloys’ gold and silver supply is sourced<br />

from Australia.<br />

“Palloys is the only jewellery manufacturer in<br />

that can trace its gold and silver supply to its<br />

original source -- Australia. All of Palloys gold<br />

and silver supply come from sister company,<br />

ABC Refinery, which is accredited by the<br />

London Bullion Market Association (LBMA).”<br />

Today’s customer also value individualised<br />

touches to their jewellery.<br />

“We have also found that the most popular<br />

jewellery collections place the choice back<br />

in the consumers hands,” said Mike. “We’re<br />

talking mass customisation with personalised<br />

touches including laser engraved details. Our<br />

finished men’s jewellery collection, Livadi,<br />

satisfies these needs.”<br />

Promotional strategies<br />

Launching a new range is a fresh new<br />

opportunity to attract new customers,<br />

while reconnecting with loyal customers. A<br />

carefully planned range, incorporating various<br />

complementary products and price points, will<br />

attract customers and provide opportunities<br />

to upsell.<br />

“The primary focus here is choice,” said Mike.<br />

“Customers love choice and price points are<br />

one of the easiest ways to provide this.”<br />

In today’s market, a dynamic digital media<br />

strategy is particularly effective.<br />

Livadi, by Palloys<br />

“Get the most out of your social media<br />

strategy by documenting – or having your<br />

supplier document – the end-to-end<br />

process and behind the scenes,” said Mike.<br />

“Consumers love the story behind the<br />

product.”<br />

Through social media, you can also<br />

encourage your customers to promote your<br />

product on your behalf.<br />

“Profile customers who wear your<br />

collection, photograph them in real<br />

life at their wedding and engagement<br />

photoshoots that you can also use on your<br />

own channels,” said Mike.<br />

Traditional marketing strategies are also still<br />

effective.<br />

“We also recommend extending your sales<br />

window by accepting pre-orders before you<br />

even launch the collection,” said Mike.<br />

“Developing a range with the Palloys team<br />

is a brilliant way to bring our collective skills<br />

and experience together to ensure that all<br />

relevant sales objectives are considered.”<br />

All images by Palloys<br />

30<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


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LARSEN JEWELLERY REMAINS THE ONLY<br />

JEWELLER IN AUSTRALIA TO ACHIEVE<br />

100% CARBON NEUTRAL STATUS<br />

From the beginning of Larsen <strong>Jewellery</strong>'s conception, ensuring a brighter future for the planet was<br />

paramount. Larsen was the first Australian jewellery brand to accomplish 100% carbon neutral<br />

status, and today remain as leaders in the market. They offer Fairtrade gold, donate at least 10% of<br />

all profits to charity—all while not compromising the quality or integrity of their jewellery.<br />

The global jewellery market is expected<br />

to be worth over $633 billion by<br />

2025 and with a growing demand<br />

for sustainability, the industry is becoming<br />

saturated with brands claiming to be ‘ethical'.<br />

With experts suggesting 'greenwashing' is rife,<br />

what does it really mean to be ethical?<br />

"Sustainable and ethical jewellery production<br />

takes on many forms, whether that be fair<br />

working conditions, recycling materials,<br />

ensuring conflict-free material sourcing<br />

and product<br />

transparency,”<br />

said founder,<br />

Lars Larsen.<br />

“For us, these<br />

are all equally<br />

important,<br />

for a brighter<br />

future for<br />

human beings,<br />

and for the<br />

environment.”<br />

“Consumers need to be wary of greenwashing.<br />

So many businesses make inflated claims<br />

that are completely misleading. We take<br />

great pride in ensuring everything we say is<br />

trackable and provable.”<br />

“We have been dedicated to ethical and<br />

sustainable standards long before it became<br />

popular – and we think it’s great that<br />

consumers are putting more and more<br />

pressure on businesses to do so,” continued<br />

Lars.<br />

When Lars and Susie Larsen gave up their<br />

executive finance positions at some of the<br />

world’s leading banks to tap into the luxury<br />

jewellery market, they had one key focus; to<br />

create a jewellery brand that offers the firstof-its-kind<br />

service in Australia.<br />

Now almost 15 years later, Larsen<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> has over 30 staff across Sydney<br />

and Melbourne, and a Brisbane studio<br />

opening later this year. At the peak of the<br />

pandemic last year, Larsen custom-made<br />

over 1250 wedding rings and more than 700<br />

engagement rings.<br />

Although Larsen has come a long way, the<br />

brand’s core tenets remain unwavering.<br />

The carbon-neutral certification process<br />

required Larsen to commission a NoCO2 audit<br />

and commit to ongoing annual auditing of<br />

emissions. The unavoidable emissions are<br />

32<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


now offset through the purchase of units<br />

in approved projects under the Verified<br />

Carbon Standard and Gold Standard. These<br />

projects range from advancing solar and wind<br />

power in China, biomass projects in India,<br />

and introducing fuel-efficient cookstoves in<br />

developing nations.<br />

Larsen ethically sources all their diamonds and<br />

gemstones to ensure they are conflict-free,<br />

and is a licensed producer of jewellery made<br />

from Fairtrade gold.<br />

“There are only a handful of providers of<br />

Fairtrade gold in Australia. Our jewellers all<br />

must document exactly how much gold they<br />

are using, and keep it completely separate<br />

[from other gold]. While it's not easy to do<br />

and considered time consuming, we think<br />

it’s important in our commitment to being<br />

as ethical and sustainable as we can be,” said<br />

Susie.<br />

Each custom-made ring or piece of jewellery<br />

is made in the studio, and is personalised to<br />

each of their customers’ needs, making the<br />

process a truly memorable experience.<br />

“When you visit one of our studios, you speak<br />

directly to one<br />

of our jewellers,<br />

rather than a<br />

salesperson,<br />

and their<br />

priority is to<br />

help educate<br />

customers<br />

about diamonds<br />

and jewellery<br />

in order to<br />

make the right<br />

decision,” said<br />

Susie. “We never compromise on quality,<br />

and all our products are backed by a lifetime<br />

guarantee.”<br />

Larsen donates at least 10% of all profits to<br />

three charities that have been handpicked<br />

by their team, including; The Fred Hollows<br />

Foundation, The Enchanted Ball and The<br />

Cambodian Children’s Fund (CCF). In 2017,<br />

Lars travelled<br />

to Cambodia<br />

to spend time<br />

with the staff<br />

and children at<br />

CCF. The trip<br />

had a profound<br />

impact on him,<br />

especially the<br />

inspiring story<br />

of a young girl<br />

called Nisa.<br />

Susie and Lars<br />

continue to<br />

sponsor Nisa<br />

to this day and provide her with support,<br />

not only financially, but as mentors and role<br />

models.<br />

As Lars and Susie continue to pave the way<br />

for ethical and sustainable jewellery, they will<br />

look to further expand their product lines and<br />

jewellery empire across the Australian market.<br />

Following Brisbane’s opening later this year,<br />

they’re eyeing off markets including Adelaide,<br />

Perth, as well as Susie’s home country, New<br />

Zealand.<br />

Currently, Larsen is conceptualising a new<br />

ready-to-wear collection, expanding its range<br />

beyond weddings and engagements. Their<br />

new collection is on track for a Christmas<br />

launch and will cater to a more affordable<br />

price point.<br />

Later this year, Larsen will also unveil a<br />

modern and luxurious new look to their<br />

physical studios, with a refurbishment planned<br />

across Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane<br />

stores. The future is boundless, and Larsen<br />

plans on continuing to lead the way.<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 33


JADE JEWELLERS DEFY<br />

THE ODDS TO CELEBRATE<br />

21ST BIRTHDAY MILESTONE<br />

A CBD turned ghost town, two major robberies and a pandemic would spell the end for most<br />

jewel-lery businesses but not Jade Jewellers. Despite the odds and with a lot of determination,<br />

the Moreton Bay region family-run business is celebrating their 21st birthday in <strong>August</strong>.<br />

Owners Gary and Laurene Coates have<br />

faced major hurdles throughout<br />

the years but with a wil-lingness to<br />

diversify and understanding the science of<br />

business, they have been able to reach a<br />

noteworthy milestone.<br />

“Our journey started when I bought a<br />

jewellery business in Nundah,” Gary said.<br />

“I was a watchmaker at the time and we<br />

thought it would be a good idea. But we soon<br />

realised we lacked a lot of business knowledge<br />

so it was a steep learning curve.”<br />

Gary and Laurene invested a lot of time to<br />

learn about the industry and implemented<br />

systems and processes that drove success.<br />

They opened a second store in Caboolture but<br />

made the decision to leave Nundah after the<br />

CBD was impacted by a major shopping centre<br />

which reduced foot traffic.<br />

In 2010 and 2012 Jade Jewellers had two<br />

major robberies and Gary and Laurene were<br />

left with a hard decision – to start again or<br />

quit?<br />

“I was taught to never give up,” Gary said.<br />

“We loved our business, our customers and<br />

we were lucky to get to do what we loved<br />

every day. We were told about a jewellery<br />

store in Burpengary that was closing down so<br />

we secured the location, did a small refit and<br />

reopened.”<br />

Gary and Laurene’s daughter Erin Mahar<br />

officially joined the family business in 2013.<br />

“Erin used to work at the Nundah shop on<br />

Saturday mornings when she was 14,” Gary<br />

said.<br />

“We asked Erin if she wanted to join us at the<br />

shop and we were so happy when she said<br />

yes.”<br />

Gary and Laurene were able to diversify in<br />

their market and as well as offering jewellery<br />

and watch repairs they also created one-ofa-kind<br />

masterpieces through their custom<br />

design service.<br />

“One of the key things we learnt is that you<br />

need to stay relevant in today’s market,” Gary<br />

said.<br />

“But above all else it’s our customers that<br />

come first.”<br />

Gary and Laurene both agree their customers<br />

were the best part of their business and enjoy<br />

hearing their stories and why they had come<br />

to them.<br />

Gary takes a closer look at a special Antwerp diamond.<br />

“We have met a lot of different people over<br />

the past 21 years and each and every story<br />

they share with us is special,” Gary said.<br />

“We get to share in secret surprises,<br />

heartbreaking losses and funny innuendos.<br />

Our customers are not just handing over a ring<br />

34<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


Gary and Laurene Coates celebrate 21 years at Jade Jewellers.<br />

to be fixed or buying a pretty necklace, they are handing us memories<br />

and future joyful moments. It’s that exchange that turns them from a<br />

customer into a friend.”<br />

In 2020 Jade Jewellers faced COVID-19 head on and instead of treading<br />

water, Gary and Laurene decided to press ahead with a planned major<br />

refit of the store.<br />

“It was something we had always planned to do, so we closed the store<br />

for three weeks and reopened with new counters and cabinets, new<br />

floors but the same customer service,” Gary said.<br />

“We are so glad we did it as has given new life to Jade Jewellers and has<br />

allowed us to employ two full-time sales staff and an onsite jeweller in<br />

addition to Renee Parry who has been with us for six years.”<br />

After 21 years in business, Gary said it was always important to see the<br />

potential, recognise when to ask for help and implement systems and<br />

processes.<br />

“At the end of the day we know we have done the best we can,” Gary<br />

said.<br />

“We are so proud that we have done it together as a family.”


Melbourne jeweller sources one of the<br />

world's last red diamonds<br />

Temelli <strong>Jewellery</strong> has achieved what few others have – they have acquired one<br />

of the world’s last known Certified Natural Red Argyle Diamonds.<br />

“This is next-level rare,” James Temelli, chief operating officer said of<br />

the coup. “Before this one, I had only seen about four [red diamonds] in<br />

real life, and those were at jewellery exhibitions.”<br />

From the initial approach from the Australian investor who was looking<br />

to buy one, to receiving the $800,000 sparkler, was a three-month<br />

global process.<br />

“It was part of our client’s superannuation strategy,” Mr Temelli<br />

explained. “The client approached other jewellers in Australia, but we<br />

were the most proactive to move on it and make it happen.”<br />

Persistence and patience were what helped the Collins Street jeweller<br />

realise the 0.47 carat red beauty from one of the world’s largest<br />

diamond houses.<br />

“We presented it to our client and facilitated the sale,” Mr Temelli said<br />

triumphantly.<br />

Globally it is considered extremely rare to even see an Australian<br />

Natural Red Argyle Diamond in person let alone be allowed to facilitate<br />

a conversation around the purchase of one, he added.<br />

“My estimation is that perhaps less than five remain in Australia, most<br />

are immediately purchased sight unseen by world figures like the<br />

Sultan of Brunei and worldwide investment brokers and collectors.<br />

“You have to be<br />

proactive, if the<br />

diamond is in<br />

Jerusalem, for<br />

instance, you have<br />

to find out how to<br />

get it to Australia.”<br />

A procurement<br />

of this kind is<br />

reliant on secure<br />

relationships and<br />

involves an element<br />

of risk. That is why<br />

proof of identity, a fixed secured appointment, and payment in advance<br />

are always part of any successful deal.<br />

Not only that, but the destination jeweller must also have an<br />

impeccable reputation, be safe, secure, trusted, and financially viable.<br />

Said to be ‘absolutely ecstatic with the outcome’, the purchaser of this<br />

brilliant red rarity is now in a class of their own. Considering the Argyle<br />

Mine in Western Australia ceased operation last November and its<br />

final showcase of its rarest diamonds from the final year of operations<br />

is being auctioned off later this year, this acquisition is a real boon for<br />

Temelli and the diamond investor themselves.<br />

PASSION<br />

COLOUR<br />

EXPERIENCE<br />

Suite 5, Level 1, 428 George Street SYDNEY NSW 2000<br />

P +61 2 8065 8533 E info@sovereigngems.com<br />

@sovereigngems<br />

In the past 21 years the price of red diamonds has increased by 500 per<br />

cent and the values per carat will only become greater in time.<br />

This incredible sale is yet another glittering example of the call for<br />

luxury goods right now.<br />

Temelli not only sources valuable diamonds, it also custom designs<br />

jewellery and is open to working with other gem collectors who may be<br />

looking to realise their investments just as their most recent client did.<br />

Temelli <strong>Jewellery</strong> is a household name in Australia, their pieces have<br />

adorned celebrities like Jennifer Hawkins, Jacinta Campbell and Tracey<br />

Grimshaw, the brand is progressive and accepts American Express and<br />

digital currencies including Qoin, Bitcoin, Ethereum and XRP.


Heart & Grace become official<br />

distributors for PD Paola in<br />

Australia and New Zealand<br />

PD Paola began in Barcelona,<br />

2014. Siblings Paola and<br />

Humbert Sasplugas pursued<br />

their dream: turning Paola’s<br />

childhood passion for jewellery<br />

and design into a lifetime<br />

project.<br />

Effortless elegance and<br />

timeless designs define the PD<br />

Paola range. With unique trend<br />

setting jewels and aspirational<br />

brand identity, PD Paola<br />

showcases the essence of their<br />

brand through their unique visuals and social media. With 1.6<br />

million social media followers PD Paola continues to grow.<br />

PD Paola presents jewels with a unique twist of natural and semiprecious<br />

stones and zirconias, all at affordable prices. Collections<br />

include Zodiacs and Letters, so jewellery can be personalised for<br />

the wearer.<br />

The brand describes itself as being<br />

for women who ‘own their glow’,<br />

with an emphasis on a spirit of<br />

adventure and self-discovery.<br />

“Every collection is the creation of a<br />

new world for the woman of today<br />

who is style-conscious, independent,<br />

and unapologetically herself,”<br />

the brand says. “We like to call it<br />

rebellious elegance with the right<br />

amount of effortless cool.”<br />

PD Paola has a wealth of beautiful visuals and display materials to<br />

showcase the brand beautifully in stores.<br />

Contact Caroline@heartandgrace.com.au for more information.


TAFE NSW SUPPORTS<br />

“BY HAND” DEMAND<br />

TAFE NSW is helping to fuel the local handmade industry by training and supporting<br />

small business owners like Dulwich Hill jewellery store owner Connie Dimas.<br />

Recent research from Roy Morgan has<br />

shown that 93% of Australians were<br />

more likely to buy products made in<br />

Australia since the COVID-19 pandemic took<br />

hold.<br />

It’s great news for handmade jewellery<br />

designer Connie, but she wasn’t always<br />

destined for a career in the jewellery industry.<br />

"Though I grew up with design in my blood<br />

with a shoemaker and dressmaker as parents,<br />

I chose to follow an academic path, studying<br />

science and mathematics at the University of<br />

NSW, Sydney,” Connie said.<br />

“After years trying to find passion in<br />

the science world, I stumbled across an<br />

opportunity to create jewellery and absolutely<br />

fell in love. I immediately enrolled to study<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Object Design at TAFE NSW<br />

Design Centre Enmore and it was the best<br />

decision I ever made.”<br />

Connie excelled in several roles in Australian<br />

jewellery manufacturing businesses and now<br />

owns her own jewellery store in Dulwich Hill<br />

– Connie Dimas <strong>Jewellery</strong>. She says the shift to<br />

hands-on training changed the course of her<br />

life.<br />

“I finally had the opportunity to express<br />

my individuality and experiment within the<br />

required syllabus to develop my own style.<br />

"Creating by hand has always been my true<br />

passion, and the opportunity to work with my<br />

customers to design and perfect their unique<br />

pieces is the best part of my job.”<br />

TAFE NSW head teacher of jewellery design<br />

and manufacture, Gina Kind said the<br />

pandemic had forced many people to reassess<br />

their purchasing habits and reliance on<br />

imported goods.<br />

"We know that during the pandemic many<br />

people started to think about how their<br />

purchasing habits impacted the local economy<br />

and saw a huge shift towards locally-made<br />

items. This was partly out of necessity but also<br />

due to a general acknowledgement that our<br />

shopping habits have a tangible impact on our<br />

local businesses,” Ms Kind said.<br />

“TAFE NSW is helping to train people in all<br />

areas of design to support the push towards<br />

locally sourced craftsmanship. In jewellery<br />

making, we have a proud history of producing<br />

incredible talent who go on to work in some<br />

of Australia’s most prestigious jewellery<br />

companies or open their<br />

own businesses.”<br />

The Certificate III in<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Manufacture<br />

provides students with<br />

hands-on skills in all aspects<br />

of jewellery fabrication in<br />

custom artist studios so<br />

students graduate ready for<br />

a career in the industry.<br />

Connie says she is a<br />

passionate advocate for<br />

TAFE NSW after the training<br />

and support she received at Design Centre<br />

Enmore. She’s now encouraging her children<br />

to consider pursuing a course at TAFE NSW.<br />

“TAFE NSW gives you an opportunity to study<br />

a broad range of careers and start studying<br />

at a certificate level to build up towards the<br />

career you want. Most students are not sure<br />

what career path to study and locking into a<br />

long-term diploma or degree can put pressure<br />

on a teenager,” she said.<br />

“I have encouraged both my teenagers to look<br />

at TAFE NSW courses in their chosen interests.<br />

One of them took up a TVET course during<br />

high school and he is so grateful to have done<br />

so, he feels that he is already ahead.”<br />

To find out more about the TAFE NSW<br />

Certificate III course in jewellery manufacture,<br />

visit www.tafensw.edu.au or call 131 601.<br />

38<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS<br />

Craig Miller<br />

CEO, JC Jewels<br />

www.jcjewels.com.au<br />

Bargaining power varies across the diamond value<br />

chain. Who has it, and why? And how can you, as a<br />

jeweller, get more of it?<br />

It works like this:<br />

Manufacturers pay upfront for the rough diamonds from the mining<br />

companies, diamond dealers pay upfront for the polished diamonds from<br />

the cutters and then diamond merchants supply jewellers on consignment<br />

and give payment terms. Consignment stock requires finance – and guess<br />

who pays for that? Yes, you, the jewellers.<br />

Jewellers require diamonds on consignment for client viewings, I get that.<br />

It's not always possible for smaller jewellers to have every diamond in<br />

stock however, in some cases, the items being asked for are core basics.<br />

But imagine what you could achieve if you owned a portion of the core<br />

diamond basics – no consignment, no finance, just outright ownership.<br />

With accurate and strategic planning and reporting this is not only<br />

possible and affordable, but will also yield a return on investment.<br />

This is what disruption looks like. New technologies always have a big<br />

impact on traditional ways of doing business, but often it can be difficult<br />

simply getting around to investigating and onboarding the change your<br />

business might need. Lab grown diamonds and tech-driven buying models<br />

are prime examples, and systems where diamond merchants can supply<br />

jewellers with diamonds direct from growers and cutting houses will make<br />

jewellers more money.<br />

And, as with every new venture and growth opportunity, sticking with the<br />

traditional models and the methods that have been used for generations,<br />

will not take you to the next level. You have to be bold.<br />

Where am I going with this?<br />

Traditionally diamond merchants hold large inventories of stock and<br />

retailers depend on diamond merchants for consignment calls. Let us ask<br />

ourselves a simple question – is the diamond merchant buying diamonds<br />

for the retailer to enjoy the majority of the profits, or to make profits for<br />

themselves?<br />

Can we reverse engineered this?<br />

There is no reason why that model can't apply to you. And that is where<br />

my company, JC Jewels, comes in. We empower our clients with over<br />

100,000 mined and lab grown loose and certified diamonds to choose<br />

from, with state of the art technology to assist. You log into our platform<br />

and we leave every diamond on the table for you to select from – not just<br />

the stones we can profit from but the stones you can too.<br />

This way we leave a chunk of buying profit for you, and empower you to<br />

choose the perfect diamond that allows you more profit and in most cases<br />

an upgrade on the stone your client receives.<br />

Our model is disrupting an age old industry and our clients are loving it. As<br />

a trusted – and local – merchant, we vet every supplier for you, ensure all<br />

the stones are available then QC every stone.<br />

To date, our clients have purchased thousands of diamonds this way<br />

with no returns or complaints. We handle all logistics and costs involved<br />

ensuring every diamond arrives on your desk looking exactly as you and<br />

your client expect.


SUSTAINABLE TIMBERS IMPART<br />

RUSTIC ELEGANCE TO GIVE<br />

WOODEN RING BOX RANGE<br />

Give Packaging has carved out a special niche in the jewellery trade with its<br />

elegant, handcrafted wooden ring boxes, designed and made in New Zealand<br />

from sustainable timbers. The core Give range is produced from four different<br />

timbers: Walnut, Jarrah, Beech and Euro, all sourced from managed forests.<br />

“We have to select timbers that are going to<br />

be good to work with and ones that work well<br />

with the tooling we use to create the products.<br />

Some timbers can be too hard, too stringy<br />

or too ‘burny,’ due to router speeds, etc. So<br />

when we are looking for a new timber, we trial<br />

a variety, but they must be from managed<br />

forests,” Give Packaging co-founder, Nicolette<br />

Jones explained.<br />

“We have found that<br />

most countries like<br />

to use a timber they<br />

are familiar with. The<br />

Give Packaging range is<br />

produced from these<br />

sustainable timbers:<br />

Walnut - USA/Canada;<br />

Jarrah - Australia;<br />

Beech - New Zealand and Euro – Europe.” Each<br />

species has points of distinction:<br />

Walnut (Juglans nigra) grows in the central<br />

United States predominantly in areas of<br />

natural hardwood forest, with around 90% of<br />

hardwood timber derived from small areas<br />

of private forest mostly owned by families or<br />

individuals. Only 5% of private forest is owned<br />

by corporations. Professional foresters who<br />

manage these areas fell a small number of<br />

trees - only once they reach full maturity - each<br />

year, ensuring long-term sustainable timber<br />

production and forest biodiversity. Walnut is<br />

one of the few species that is planted as well<br />

as naturally regenerated after harvesting.<br />

Jarrah (Eucalyptus marginata) grows in<br />

native forest areas in Southwest Australia.<br />

Approximately 2.25 million hectares of native<br />

forest is managed by the Western Australian<br />

government. Of this, 62% is protected and<br />

not available for harvest, 38% is regrowth<br />

forest available for harvest, while less than<br />

1% of the total area is harvested annually.<br />

The amount of timber removed from native<br />

forests each year is less than the annual<br />

growth and regeneration, making native<br />

timber management a sustainable activity in<br />

the region. Jarrah forests are independently<br />

certified to the Australian Forestry Standard<br />

(AFS) which is recognised by the PEFC, and<br />

the International Standard for Environmental<br />

Management Systems (ISO 14001).<br />

New Zealand Silver Beech (Nothofagus<br />

menziesli) is sourced from sustainably<br />

managed forests, and is becoming the<br />

favoured wood to replace rimu as the<br />

prime native species. All silver beech in<br />

40<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


New Zealand is required to be managed<br />

to exacting standards under detailed long<br />

term Sustainable Management Plans. Silver<br />

beech is harvested under sustainable forest<br />

management permits from the Ministry of<br />

Agriculture and Forestry.<br />

The use of sustainably managed silver beech is<br />

a positive alternative to using less sustainably<br />

managed timbers such as imported<br />

hardwoods, and illegally logged rainforest.<br />

The majority of Southland silver beech is<br />

from sustainably managed second growth<br />

(previously harvested and regenerated) forest,<br />

of an average age of 75-80 years, with FSC<br />

certified supplies available. Plantation-grown<br />

and second-growth regenerated native forest<br />

timbers can generally produce breast-height<br />

diameters of 60cm, and small quantities of<br />

heartwood within 75 years.<br />

Euro Beech (Fagus sylvatica L. mainly comes<br />

from Germany, where beech is the most<br />

common broadleaved species. Over the last<br />

15 years, the area of beech has increased<br />

by about 150 000 ha. Predominantly under<br />

near-natural management, beech forests are a<br />

prime example of a sustainable, multiple-use<br />

forest management. The integrated approach<br />

of this multiple-use management is an ideal<br />

example for the achievement of the aims of<br />

the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD).<br />

Near-natural forest management gives priority<br />

to the natural regeneration of forests. Natural<br />

regeneration is always adopted when the<br />

species, origin and quality of the existing trees<br />

in the forest are sufficiently well adapted to<br />

the prevailing site conditions. For beech, these<br />

prerequisites exist almost without exception<br />

and in Germany, beech has been regenerated<br />

predominantly naturally as long as one can<br />

remember. Seed-bearing beech trees still<br />

continue to pass on their native, and hence<br />

well-adapted genetic identity to the next<br />

forest generation.<br />

Give Packaging products are made from<br />

purchased timber strictly sourced from<br />

managed forests, Ms Jones affirmed. “Since<br />

2007, we have also regularly contributed<br />

financially to these greening initiatives:<br />

Greening Australia, New Zealand Native Forest<br />

Restoration Trust and American Forests,” she<br />

said.<br />

Greening<br />

Australia is an<br />

independent<br />

not-for-profit<br />

environmental<br />

organisation<br />

with a mission<br />

to conserve<br />

and restore<br />

Australia’s<br />

landscapes at<br />

scale through<br />

collaborative,<br />

science-based and innovative conservation<br />

programs. It is involved in numerous<br />

restoration projects across Australia, including<br />

relinking habitats across parts of Southern<br />

Australia and Tasmania, improving water<br />

quality on the Great Barrier Reef by restoring<br />

coastal wetlands, and partnering with<br />

Aboriginal communities to support indigenous<br />

land management.<br />

The Native Forest<br />

Restoration Trust<br />

acquires land<br />

to promote the<br />

regeneration<br />

of native<br />

forests, protect<br />

important species<br />

and restore<br />

their habitats,<br />

and improve<br />

the quality of<br />

waterways. It currently manages over 7,000<br />

hectares of native forests throughout New<br />

Zealand. Each piece of land is placed under<br />

a covenant to ensure permanent protection,<br />

so it can never be cleared, harvested or<br />

developed.<br />

American Forests is the oldest national<br />

conservation organisation in the United States,<br />

working for more than 140 years to create<br />

healthy forests that deliver essential benefits<br />

for the climate, people, water and wildlife.<br />

Its mission is to advance the conservation<br />

of forests across the country by protecting<br />

and restoring forest ecosystems, promoting<br />

and expanding urban forests, and increasing<br />

understanding of the importance of forests.<br />

Recently Give Packaging’s timber range was<br />

joined by a woollen range which uses wool<br />

as a renewable and sustainable resource.<br />

Both ranges are 100% biodegradable. “Our<br />

inspiration with wool was to create pouches<br />

and tiny card boxes to house woollen interiors.<br />

It was important to us to have a natural inner<br />

and outer packaging option, so the 100% wool<br />

inside the sustainably sourced card, makes<br />

it a great alternative to other options in the<br />

market,” Ms Jones said.<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 41


KEEPING SKILLS ALIVE<br />

Creole Earrings<br />

This tutorial shows you how to make a pair of twisted hoop earrings.<br />

The main purpose of this exercise is for apprentices to experience<br />

making a simple hinge and catch mechanism for earrings so that<br />

they have a better understanding for future repair work.<br />

This design uses a twisted wire but you can customise the body of<br />

the earring to any design you like.<br />

1To make the twist wire I am using<br />

a strip of silver measuring 1mm<br />

x 2.5mm x 200mm that has been<br />

annealed. Cut off 25mm and put to<br />

one side to make the catch later on.<br />

Clamp one end in your vice. Grip the<br />

other end tightly in your draw tongs or<br />

gripping pliers and twist it several times<br />

until you have the required twist. Make<br />

sure that you pull the strip tight as you<br />

turn to avoid it buckling.<br />

2<br />

Anneal it again, and wrap it twice<br />

around your ring mandrel until<br />

it overlaps. You may need to tap<br />

it into shape with your rawhide<br />

mallet. If it springs open a little, don’t<br />

worry as there needs to be an opening<br />

for the mechanism.<br />

3<br />

Now cut the coil to make two twist<br />

ring hoops and open them on your<br />

mandrel and trim them so that<br />

you have a 12mm gap. The outside<br />

diameter of the finished hoops should be<br />

around 25mm including the opening.<br />

File all the ends flat and angle your file<br />

so that the hinge and catch will face each<br />

other straight when fixed on.<br />

4<br />

Roll the remainder of your strip<br />

to 0.7mm. Cut two 5mm pieces<br />

for the catch and two 10mm<br />

pieces for the hinges. This will be more<br />

than you need but you can trim them<br />

down later. Fold the hinge strips over to<br />

form a ‘U’ shape. Place the catch part<br />

inside the hinge and tighten with your<br />

parallel pliers. This will make the hinge<br />

gap the right shape and size.<br />

5<br />

File a flat spot on the bottom of<br />

the hinges, and then set up the<br />

components ready for soldering.<br />

I have placed a scalpel blade under the<br />

hinge to make sure it lines up to the<br />

centre of the hoop end. The catch part<br />

needs to be soldered flat on.<br />

6<br />

While the hoops are in the pickle,<br />

cut two pieces of 1.1mm round<br />

wire to approximately 35mm.<br />

Emery clean and flux about 4mm at the<br />

end of each piece and while holding<br />

the wire vertically, melt the end. Use<br />

an oxidizing flame and ensure that you<br />

don’t allow the molten ball to become<br />

so large that it drops off the wire.<br />

42<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


7<br />

Cut the hinges down to<br />

approximately 3mm and file them<br />

into a rounded profile. The catch<br />

end can be filed down to approximately<br />

4mm.<br />

Remove any solder evidence and emery<br />

clean them ready for polishing.<br />

8<br />

To make the correct ear wire<br />

profile, hammer the wires on your<br />

bench block. The ball will become<br />

a disk and the wire should be flattened<br />

to around 0.7mm thick.<br />

9<br />

Now prepare a small piece of<br />

0.9mm round wire and find a drill<br />

the same size. Drill into the centre<br />

of the disks on the ear wires and the<br />

through the centre of the hinges making<br />

sure your drilling is perfectly straight.<br />

Also drill the catches in the centre at the<br />

point where the catch meets the hoop.<br />

10<br />

Open the catch hole out with<br />

a 1.1mm ball bur. Insert a 4/0<br />

saw blade and cut out to the<br />

top. Open the cut out a little<br />

and curve the inner cuts at the top. Use a<br />

knife edge escapement file tidy up the inner<br />

opening.<br />

Test the ear wire to make sure it catches.<br />

11pin. Cut the ear wire down and<br />

Now you can fit the curved<br />

ear wire and insert the hinge<br />

taper the end. There should<br />

just be enough protruding to be able to<br />

operate it.<br />

You will probably need to make some<br />

adjustments. Take your time and make<br />

sure that the parts are not wobbly when<br />

fitted.<br />

12<br />

Once you are satisfied that<br />

the mechanism is functioning<br />

properly you can cut and<br />

file the hinge pins down so<br />

that 0.5mm is exposed on both sides.<br />

Hammer the pin ends carefully and keep<br />

turning them over to ensure that the<br />

flared ends are even.<br />

Now test and tweak as necessary until<br />

your earrings are ready for a final polish.<br />

Peter Keep is a<br />

master jeweller<br />

and teacher. He<br />

offers structured<br />

online courses<br />

that have helped<br />

thousands of<br />

students around<br />

the world improve<br />

their skills.<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Training Solutions offers a comprehensive online training service<br />

including the industry recognised Ten Stage Apprenticeship Course.<br />

The video tutorial for this lesson can be found in the Advanced Level<br />

https://jewellery-training-solutions.thinkific.com/courses/creole-earrings<br />

Check out the other courses and options at<br />

www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 43


NEW PRODUCTS<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Bering<br />

Perfect style combined with contemporary minimalism. Sapphire<br />

crystal glass. Arctic green dial. Milanese Mesh. RRP $299 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Disney - Mickey Sculpted Dial<br />

Silver sculpted Mickey Dial with genuine red leather strap. 3 ATM water<br />

resistant. Comes with an Original Disney Tin gift box. RRP $79 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Ice Watch – 018477<br />

Ice Solar Sunset Watch. Solar powered, ultra slim, feather light,<br />

made with polycarbonate ABS. Water resistant to 50 meters.<br />

RRP $139.9 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Ingersoll – I09303: The Orville<br />

Skeleton automatic movement. Water resistant to 50 Meters.<br />

Leather storage pouch. RRP $799 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

JDM Military Sapphire<br />

Alpha Chrono Black – Swiss made. Chronograph function.<br />

Rugged 100-meter water resistant watch with scratch- and<br />

shock-proof sapphire crystal. RRP $479 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Maserati Hybrid Traguardo – Analogue Italian style with the<br />

functions of a smartwatch. Heart rate, calorie tracker, pedometer,<br />

stopwatch, camera control and more. RRP $589 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

44<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


NEW PRODUCTS<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Paul Hewitt Praia Watch- All Metal Minimalist Watch.<br />

Water resistant to 50 meters. Maritime anchor motif. All gold<br />

iconic perfection. RRP: $289<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Maurice Lacroix AIKON Swiss Ladies 35mm Automatic Date<br />

Swiss ML115 movement. Interchangeable white leather strap.<br />

White mother of pearl dial. Diamond indices. RRP $3860 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Philip Watch Men’s Automatic 42mm Caribe Divers Watch<br />

Precision Swiss made. Helium gas valve with 300-meter water resistance.<br />

Sapphire crystal glass. Unrivalled Italian luxury. RRP $1660 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Nordgreen Pioneer Watch<br />

Reddot Award winning design by Jakob Wagner. 100% carbon<br />

neutral. Eco-friendly humanitarian charity options included in<br />

the price. Water resistant to 50 meters. RRP $429 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Sector Save the Ocean Blue Watch<br />

Eco-friendly watch made from plastic collected from the oceans.<br />

Recyclable PET used to make sturdy Nato strap. Sporty watch<br />

with 5ATM resistance. RRP $249 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 45


NEW PRODUCTS<br />

Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525<br />

Vibrant spring colours from the new Ellani<br />

Collections Spring/Summer <strong>2021</strong> release.<br />

www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />

Bianc | +61 413 872 810<br />

Bianc introduces to you their latest<br />

collection. Everything is ready for order now.<br />

This season you will be enchanted by Bianc’s<br />

radiant rainbow moonstone and rose<br />

quartz, twinkling tourmaline and topaz, and<br />

precious pearls.<br />

info@bianc.com.au<br />

@bianc_jewellery<br />

www.bianc.com.au<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />

These elegant, timeless pendants in<br />

sterling silver rhodium plate, feature cubic<br />

zirconia’s and are part of the <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

Centre’s new range.<br />

www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />

Pastiche | +61 2 9452 4981<br />

Inspired by the shores of Elia, born in Greece and forever<br />

chasing the sun, the Elia Collection showcases unique<br />

Pastiche designs combining golden tones and on-trend styles<br />

crafted in stainless steel or solid sterling silver. This collection<br />

will be a hit with your customers as most pieces retail for<br />

under $100. Exciting additions to this season include the<br />

Athena set with beautiful freshwater pearls, as well as the<br />

dainty Ariana heart necklace, and the fob style Alida set.<br />

www.pastiche.com.au<br />

Dear Addison | +61 2 9452 4981<br />

Dear Addison, offers a range of delicate designs in sterling<br />

silver or gold plated brass. A fun and vibrant collection, the<br />

new Muse Collection for Spring/Summer <strong>2021</strong> is filled with<br />

gorgeous details and playful resin hoops. This collection<br />

will entice customers through the doors with its colour and<br />

personality.<br />

www.dearaddison.com.au<br />

46<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


NEW PRODUCTS<br />

Stones and Silver | +61 3 9587 1215<br />

Beautiful, timeless and elegant our new .925 sterling silver fob 45cm<br />

necklace featuring 10mm links is a must have. SS-6210.<br />

This stunning .925 sterling silver fob link necklace is 45cm long with<br />

a 7mm link and features a textured fob for added wow. SS-6590.<br />

www.stonesandsilver.com.au<br />

Zahar | +61 413 872 810<br />

Introducing Zahar's latest collection. Everything is available now<br />

and ready for order!<br />

This season, Zahar features statement link chains, dainty layering<br />

pieces, as well as some fun and flirty coloured glass styles.<br />

info@zahar.com.au<br />

@zahar.collection<br />

www.zahar.com.au<br />

Ellendale Diamonds Australia | +61 8 6180 1562<br />

A timeless 18k white/yellow gold pendant featuring 26 round<br />

brilliant cut fancy intense yellow diamonds VS-SI totalling 0.26ct<br />

and 39 round brilliant cut G+ SI2 diamonds totalling 0.39ct.<br />

www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Roamer Competence Skeleton III<br />

Skeleton Swiss Made watch with STP6-15 automatic movement<br />

offering 48hr power reserve. Bidirectional self-winding via<br />

perpetual rotor. Sapphire crystal glass. 43mm case.<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 47


NEW PRODUCTS<br />

PD Paolo | Heart & Grace | +61 422 863 906<br />

CO01-262 – Letter C $135 RRP. 925 Sterling silver with an 18K gold<br />

plating, labradorite, tiger eye, mother of pearl and crystals blend.<br />

Bringing back the nineties’ and giving a twist to their beautiful<br />

nostalgia, floating letters rise as the innovative and distinctive<br />

personal symbol: a new reality is born from a piece of jewellery that<br />

empowers your true self and says your name out loud.<br />

AR01- 293 - Willow Gold Earring - $155 RRP. 925 Sterling silver with<br />

an 18K gold plating, the willow necklace is part of our Five collection.<br />

Inspired by morning light going through leafy woods, always graceful<br />

and eternal. With five colour stones featured throughout the Five<br />

collection, sapphire blue corundum, rhodolite zirconia, champagne<br />

zirconia, golden yellow zirconia and pure white zirconia<br />

hello@heartandgrace.com.au<br />

www.heartandgrace.com.au<br />

Bella Donna Silver | +61 7 5329 2445<br />

Bella Donna Silver’s elegant new range of pearl earrings are<br />

ethically made with AAA natural pearls, sterling silver and 18ct<br />

rose gold plated, or 14ct yellow gold plated 0.25 micron.<br />

donna@belladonnasilver.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Jacques Du Manoir Two-Tone Royal Swiss Watch Set<br />

Swiss made, replaceable bezels, zircon crystal band.<br />

Feel like a true royal with JDM. RRP $359 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

West End Collection | +61 3 9553 3777<br />

Georgini: IB184W/IE999W/IP847W<br />

The Rockstar Evil Eye Set-<br />

Defend evil with the Georgini Blue Evil Eye Set in Silver from the Rock<br />

Star Collection. This iconic talisman features stunning sapphire nano<br />

eyes in rhodium plated sterling silver.RRP $99/$59/$119 AUD<br />

www.westendcollection.com.au<br />

48<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>


NEW PRODUCTS<br />

Mark McAskill <strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 8352 1400<br />

Pink tourmaline brings a bright pop of colour to this new Art Deco<br />

inspired dress ring, with double claws enhancing the vintage feel.<br />

#2560.<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre’s latest earring arrivals from Italy.<br />

Sterling silver graduated faceted hoop earring (hef240)<br />

Sterling silver flat faceted hoop earring (hef4230)<br />

Sterling silver graduated faceted oval hoop earring (heof1530)<br />

Visit our website for more sizes in these styles<br />

www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />

Double talon claws and wide split shoulders create a striking look in<br />

this new design cushion cut Tanzanite dress ring. #2561.<br />

sales@markmcaskill.com.au<br />

Ronnie Shabtay Fine <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />

9K gold round profile polished oval huggie with gold bezel set<br />

14x10mm pear shaped blue gemstones drop earrings.<br />

www.ronnieshabtay.com<br />

Ikecho Australia | +61 2 9266 0636<br />

9ct rose gold Edison white round 12mm hook diamond earrings.<br />

Dia 0.42ct. IP406-ERG-EDI.<br />

9ct yellow gold Keshi 18mm+ freshwater pearl diamond pendant.<br />

Dia: 0.03ct. and 9ct yellow gold Keshi 12- 18mm freshwater pearl<br />

handmade ring. IP3556N-9YG-DIA and IPRS38-9YG.<br />

www.ikecho.com.au<br />

Vina <strong>Jewellery</strong> | 0413 040 330<br />

Modern design sterling silver, pendant necklace. Represent<br />

everlasting love with a tiny heart centrepiece and sparkle<br />

majestically with the infinity symbol.<br />

pinaroo@bigpond.net.au<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong> 49


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Chris O’Neill<br />

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Glues<br />

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M: +61 491 174 922<br />

E: asiagem2000@yahoo.com<br />

(07) 3876 7481<br />

sales@labanda.com.au<br />

FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />

ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202<br />

MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545<br />

PERTH (08) 6363 5517<br />

SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626<br />

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