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Adventure Magazine

Issue 230, February/March 2022

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Left to right: Historic sink plundered from the wreck of the Waikare, recovered by our team in Luncheon Cove.<br />

Rob Edward - James Croker and Eddie Howard descend to the black coral.<br />

Some of the 40 batteries recovered<br />

Opposite page: Stuart Day and Rob Wilson clear their safety stop and prepare to ascend after the tyres they have sent to the surface.<br />

Now fast forward to 2021 now our third<br />

visit to Dusky, the dive team suit up into<br />

their drysuits and Halcyon kit, ready<br />

to dive in this incredibly exclusive and<br />

isolated location. In all honesty I was not<br />

expecting what we usually encounter<br />

with our typical Ghost Diving dives or<br />

when we dive for Project Baseline Clyde<br />

Quay. Surprisingly enough, the sight I<br />

saw was not so dissimilar!<br />

Bubbles roared from the exhaust tee<br />

of my Halo as I descended through the<br />

tannin rich water, scanning left and right<br />

I saw two Seven-Gill Sharks come up<br />

out of the depths to welcome our team to<br />

the area, it was wonderful. Sadly though,<br />

within minutes I scootered over a huge<br />

pile of car batteries, initially I estimated<br />

at least 20. The actual amount once<br />

we dug them out of the seabed was<br />

horrifying at 40! (1000kgs of car batteries<br />

alone.) We knew we had our work cut<br />

out for us....<br />

Freedivers and technical divers<br />

working in harmony<br />

Since the launch of Ghost Diving here in<br />

NZ, I have constantly seen the value of<br />

working with highly skilled freedivers and<br />

this project again proved their invaluable<br />

support.<br />

Throughout this annual project, we have<br />

been working side by side with some<br />

incredible free-divers and they are truly<br />

amazing. The one item we find by the<br />

mountain is long neck beer bottles –<br />

there were literally 1000s.<br />

Both Scuba and Free teams haul beer<br />

bottle after beer bottle filling giant canvas<br />

bags to be removed in one hit with our<br />

lift bags. We have even found multiple<br />

anchors over the last three years and<br />

they had snared everything from fishing<br />

lines to ropes of various flavours.<br />

One of the items as irony has it, to be<br />

discovered was as I surged home to the<br />

vessel on my DPV (Dive Xtras scooter),<br />

I noticed an odd circular shape on the<br />

sea bed. The circle was no more than an<br />

inch across, but after years of doing this,<br />

I have an uncanny eye for the uncanny!<br />

Descending back to the sea floor I began<br />

clawing at the edges of this bizarre<br />

looking object. To my surprise, it was<br />

another sink! (We found another one on<br />

our first trip in 2019.)<br />

We had literally found everything<br />

including the kitchen sink and as soon<br />

as I saw the Union Steamship logo, I<br />

knew again it was something interesting.<br />

In actual fact, this sink had a surprising<br />

significance.<br />

We had literally found everything<br />

including the kitchen sink<br />

This particular sink as had the previous<br />

one from 2019 had been plundered and<br />

then dumped from a nearby wreck of a<br />

vessel called the 'Waikare' a steamship<br />

that had struck an uncharted rock<br />

between Indian island and Passage Inlet<br />

in 1910 before beaching on Stop Island<br />

for the passengers to safely disembark.<br />

The skipper Sean and Maria recognised<br />

the sink and its significance straight<br />

away - again showing their intimate<br />

knowledge of this area. Maria and Sean<br />

without hesitation got this historic sink off<br />

to a local maritime museum where the<br />

sink is now proudly on display.<br />

The teams worked in amazing cohesion<br />

for the time we had in the darkened<br />

water. A grand total of over 5000kgs was<br />

removed from this amazing area, most of<br />

which was thrown from visiting vessels.<br />

And at the end of the project the Pure<br />

Salt team spoiled us with a dive to see<br />

the majestic black coral<br />

Tamatea/Dusky Sound of course is world<br />

famous for its black coral some of which<br />

we found in 11m of water and any diver<br />

will tell you that is incredible as it is as<br />

a deep water species. At the end of the<br />

project, the Pure Salt team spoiled us<br />

with a dive to see this majestic black<br />

coral in 25-29m of water.<br />

Something rare and fascinating grows<br />

in the depths of Milford Sound – black<br />

coral. Known as antipathes fiordensis,<br />

this black coral is native to the Fiordland<br />

area. Black coral usually lives in deep<br />

ocean but thanks to the geology of<br />

Milford Sound, you can see black coral<br />

as shallow as 10 metres below the<br />

surface.<br />

As heavy rainfall drains through the lush<br />

forests, it gets stained with tannins until<br />

that is the colour of strong tea. Because<br />

fresh water is less dense than salt water,<br />

the rainwater forms a protective top layer<br />

over the salt water from the incoming<br />

Tasman Sea. The darkened fresh water<br />

blocks sunlight, with light levels at 10m<br />

deep in Milford Sound being equivalent<br />

to those at about 70m in the open sea.<br />

Due to this unique environment, the fiord<br />

supports the world’s biggest population<br />

of black coral trees.<br />

There are 60 varieties of black coral in<br />

Dusky Sound and it is also home to rare<br />

red corals and the enormous bubblegum<br />

coral, which can grow up to seven<br />

metres high and live for centuries. There<br />

are about seven million colonies of coral<br />

in Dusky Sound.<br />

A truly magnificent location and an<br />

incredibly valuable project.<br />

The initial success of our first project in<br />

2019 was the first stepping stone for the<br />

now annual Tamatea Blue Project with<br />

the crew of Pure Salt. Some of my teams<br />

are joining me again and some gutsy<br />

volunteers and battle tested freedivers<br />

to again make a difference to this once<br />

pristine environment.<br />

We will endeavour to return this magical<br />

place to its true majesty before the onset<br />

of those before us.<br />

60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#230

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