Adventure Magazine
Issue 243: Survival Issue April/May 2024
Issue 243: Survival Issue
April/May 2024
Transform your PDFs into Flipbooks and boost your revenue!
Leverage SEO-optimized Flipbooks, powerful backlinks, and multimedia content to professionally showcase your products and significantly increase your reach.
adventure<br />
where actions speak louder than words<br />
where actions speak louder than words<br />
ISSUE 243<br />
Apr/May 2024<br />
NZ $11.90 incl. GST<br />
SURVIVAL<br />
INCREDIBLE TALES OF SURVIVING NATURES FURY
Pure<br />
joy<br />
comes<br />
to<br />
those<br />
who<br />
hike.<br />
The roll of the dice<br />
We had recently returned from Hokkaido, Japan when we heard<br />
the new of Isabella Bolton and Joshua Sellens.<br />
Sadly as these pages went to print two young Kiwis, Isabella<br />
Bolton, 21 And Joshua Sellens 33, lost their lives in an avalanche in<br />
Japan on Mt Yotei in Hokkaido. Both were experienced riders and<br />
both knew the area well.<br />
Coincidentally, this issue of <strong>Adventure</strong> is about surviving; about<br />
keeping safe and making the right decision. Survival is all about<br />
taking precautions, mitigating risks, making good choices, and<br />
weighing up all the danger factors. But at the end of the day, no<br />
matter how careful you are, how risk-averse or cautious you are,<br />
sometimes you are just unlucky.<br />
There is a full feature on social media misadventures on page 30,<br />
now I am sure those people didn’t put their hands up to get killed,<br />
but if you hug a wild leopard or hang by your fingernails from the<br />
72nd floor, you are not being cautious nor risk averse.<br />
But, if you have checked the conditions, examined the terrain, taken<br />
good advice, and gone with experience and the right gear, then<br />
sometimes, when things go wrong it is just the roll of the dice and<br />
sometimes chance does not go your way.<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> sports are about reward; that is why we do them; the thrill,<br />
the excitement, and the fun, but there is a risk, and sometimes, risk<br />
catches up with you through no fault of your own.<br />
Our heartfelt condolences go out to the families of those who have lost<br />
loved ones in Japan, and cliche as it sounds, doing what they loved.<br />
Steve Dickinson<br />
Editor<br />
Mt Yotei, Hokkaido<br />
SIDE NOTE: This issue many of the stories<br />
are supplied by people who were in the<br />
moment, doing their best to survive, so some<br />
of the photos may be a little blurry, others a<br />
little shaky - as you read through the pages,<br />
keep in mind the photographers had other<br />
things on their minds...<br />
Men’s<br />
Women’s<br />
All New: Moab Speed 2<br />
The future of hiking.<br />
merrell.co.nz<br />
| | |
We Are Every<br />
Hard-Won<br />
Summit<br />
BEHIND THE COVER<br />
25 year old Tom Mahuta Robinson<br />
embarked on an extreme adventure when<br />
he set out to design, build and row across<br />
the Pacific Ocean.<br />
He spent a total of 265 days at sea in<br />
complete isolation, travelled thousands of<br />
miles and experienced incredible highs.<br />
He also experienced his fair share of<br />
challenges. This photo was taken as he<br />
documented his journey.<br />
For the full story, see page 10<br />
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Steve Dickinson<br />
Mob: 027 577 5014<br />
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
Lynne Dickinson<br />
design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES<br />
subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />
DISTRIBUTION<br />
ARE, Ph (09) 979 3000<br />
OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE)<br />
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />
www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />
www.adventurejobs.co.nz<br />
www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />
@adventurevanlifenz<br />
PUBLISHERS<br />
Pacific Media Ltd,<br />
11a Swann Beach Road<br />
Stanmore Bay, Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />
Ph: 0275775014 / Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
advertising rates, demographic and stats available on request<br />
Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide,<br />
although good quality prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work published may be used on<br />
our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all<br />
reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume any<br />
responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein<br />
and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein.<br />
Tough enough to stand up to rock, snow, and<br />
cascading icefalls. Offering unbeatable comfort<br />
and protection for realising the possibility<br />
in every peak. Discover our hardworking<br />
mountaineering gear built with the most robust<br />
fabrics and protective details, helping you make<br />
hard-won upward progress on frozen faces.<br />
World Class Indoor Climbing<br />
FREE week after first paid visit!<br />
Fantastic community, beginners<br />
welcome, boulder classes for all ages<br />
and abilities, inquire now.<br />
* Discounts for youths and own gear<br />
Student Mondays, entry $15<br />
www.northernrocks.co.nz<br />
@northernrocks.climbing<br />
Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,<br />
Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363<br />
“Northern Rocks is an indoor<br />
bouldering facility, we foster<br />
community, growth and<br />
positive experiences for<br />
people of all backgrounds,<br />
ages and abilities.”<br />
Available now from Rab specialist stores throughout NZ.<br />
Hunting And Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Tauranga: Hamills, Rotorua: Hamills, Taupo:<br />
Trev Marine, Waikato: Trek N Travel, Equip Outdoors, Otaki: Outdoors Unlimited, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka:<br />
Coppins Outdoors, Nelson: PackGearGo, MD Outdoors, Kaikoura: Coastal Sports, Christchurch: Complete Outdoors,<br />
Greymouth: Colls Sports, Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet.<br />
Online: huntingandfishing.co.nz, dwights.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, mtoutdoors.co.nz, smallplanetsports.com,<br />
equipoutdoors.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz, outfittersstore.nz<br />
Distributed by Outfitters 0800021732 www.outfitters.co.nz
These excerpts can be found on the <strong>Adventure</strong> traveller website www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />
TURTLE SEASON ON NINGALOO REEF<br />
Down on the shoreline in the moonlight, tiny waves are rippling<br />
around a rock. Suddenly the rounded lump shifts forwards, and<br />
then again. Not a boulder after all but a mature female green turtle<br />
hauling her 150kg body out of the ocean. Lumbering up the beach,<br />
leaving a trail like a tractor tyre, she’s searching for the best nesting<br />
site. Her in-built GPS has led her back to Ningaloo Reef (Nyinggulu),<br />
possibly to the same beach on which she herself hatched from an<br />
egg decades ago.<br />
we ARE tramping<br />
From November to March, this scene plays out night after night<br />
along Ningaloo Reef. For lucky humans who have witnessed this<br />
miracle of nature, it’s simply unforgettable, and for the best chance<br />
of a turtle encounter, it pays to join a professionally guided tour.<br />
During turtle nesting season, Exmouth <strong>Adventure</strong> Co. operates a<br />
Summer Sunset Turtle Watching Tour .<br />
ALASKA PLUNGES INTO DEEP FREEZE WITH<br />
TEMPERATURES WELL BELOW ZERO -40<br />
In March, much of Alaska plunged into a deep freeze,<br />
with temperatures dipping as low as -40 degrees<br />
Fahrenheit in some places. Anchorage is seeing<br />
some of its coldest temperatures in years as the<br />
mayor of the state’s largest city opened warming<br />
facilities for those who are homeless or who don’t<br />
have reliable heating. The extreme cold in some<br />
areas caused heating fuel to thicken, breaking<br />
heaters, and in Anchorage, the roofs of at least two<br />
businesses collapsed under the weight of the snow.<br />
Meanwhile, Alaska’s capital, Juneau, set a new<br />
January snowfall record of more than 6.5 feet.<br />
RUN10023<br />
NIUE’S HIKULAGI SCULPTURE PARK:<br />
A GLOBAL MICROCOSM<br />
Sitting incongruously in the middle of the natural rainforest of<br />
the Pacific Island of Niue is a physically small but conceptually<br />
monumental treatise on global environment concerns, the Hikulagi<br />
Sculpture Park. Artist Mark Cross explains why this remote island<br />
sculpture park is of international relevance.<br />
The Hikulagi Park was established in 1996 by members of the then<br />
Tahiono Arts Collective, a small group of artists and art enthusiasts<br />
who had returned to their Pacific home, countering the trend of<br />
urban drift that has devastated many rural and island populations in<br />
the Pacific.<br />
In the case of Niue, much of the land was abandoned after having<br />
been rendered largely infertile by naive colonial horticultural<br />
methods. The artists saw this land as a tabular rasa, a blank canvas<br />
where they could produce works of art that not only enhanced<br />
the land but also spoke of the very cause of its infertility. Several<br />
acres of such land south of the eastern village of Liku were at the<br />
artists’ disposal and, while being ideal for the purpose of the artists’<br />
environmental concerns, it was also ironically surrounded by the<br />
pristine rainforest which once covered the now degraded land.<br />
Whether it’s a day trip with the family or a multi-day adventure deep into the wilderness, Bivouac has the best<br />
gear, from the top brands, to keep you safe, comfortable, warm and dry. Our friendly staff are happy to provide<br />
expert advice, ensuring you get the right equipment and the right fit. If you need it for tramping, we have it,<br />
because at Bivouac Outdoor we ARE tramping.<br />
Adelaide Tarn<br />
Kahurangi National Park<br />
Photo: Mark Watson<br />
Arrive as a visitor and leave as a friend. No crime,<br />
no traffic and no queues. Relax or explore. Swim,<br />
fish and dive in the clearest waters in the pacific.<br />
The world’s only Dark Sky Nation welcomes you<br />
to the way life used to be; the way life should be.<br />
Contact: info@wildsidetravel.nz | 027 436 9025<br />
4//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage<br />
STORES NATIONWIDE<br />
www.bivouac.co.nz
These excerpts can be found on the Ski & Snow website www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />
STAY IN BOUND - MASS RESCUE<br />
On January 20th, a backcountry rescue unfolded near<br />
Vermont’s Killington ski resort, involving 23 skiers and<br />
snowboarders caught in freezing temperatures. The group,<br />
primarily front-side resort participants, made an ill-fated<br />
decision to venture into the backcountry from Killington<br />
Resort, ignoring warnings and heading beyond designated<br />
boundaries near the Snowdon Six Express lift.<br />
Descending into Brewers Brook, a steep gully with powder<br />
accumulation, the group reached the bottom only to face<br />
a challenging 2.5-mile trek over steep and icy terrain.<br />
Lacking essential touring equipment like climbing skins or<br />
splitboards, they became exhausted, cold, and disoriented.<br />
Your alpine<br />
adventure<br />
FABLE TERRACE DOWNS RESORT.<br />
Experience the ideal destination for the<br />
upcoming ski season at Fable Terrace Downs<br />
Resort. Just a quick 30-minute drive from<br />
the Mount Hutt access road, our resort<br />
offers an array of amenities including an<br />
18-hole championship golf course, archery,<br />
claybird shooting, and more. <strong>Adventure</strong><br />
awaits with biking, walking, and jet boating<br />
along the Rakaia Gorge nearby. After an<br />
action-packed day, relax in our comfortable<br />
accommodations and savor delicious cuisine<br />
at our onsite restaurant. Book your stay now!<br />
THIRD PLACE FINISH FOR FINN BILOUS<br />
AT FINAL STOP OF THE 2024 FREERIDE WORLD TOUR<br />
Finn Bilous (Wānaka, 24) has finished in third place at the final<br />
stop of the 2024 Freeride World Tour, held on the formidable Bec<br />
des Rosses in Verbier, March 2024.<br />
Bilous put down an incredible run, including a gnarly 360 over the<br />
Hollywood cliff and a huge cross-court 360 on the super exposed<br />
face, impressing the judges and delighting the huge crowd<br />
gathered at the bottom.<br />
Search and Rescue coordinator for the Vermont State<br />
Police, disclosed that despite being in the backcountry,<br />
the individuals were not experienced in such terrain. With<br />
growing severity, 21 skiers and snowboarders, including<br />
six children, initiated multiple distress calls to 911. This<br />
prompted a daring rescue mission, highlighting the critical<br />
importance of preparedness in the unpredictable Vermont<br />
backcountry.<br />
When asked about throwing the 360 off the Hollywood cliff, Bilous<br />
explained; “We came here last year, looked at this face for a whole<br />
week and never got to ski it, so it has been percolating away in the<br />
back of my brain. Conditions lined up this year and I had to do it. I<br />
am glad it worked out, it was pretty scary with the flat light in there<br />
and punchy snow but I am stoked with how it turned out.”<br />
The men’s categories dropped in from the very top of the Bec<br />
des Rosses for the first time since 2018, providing some of the<br />
most technical and exposed terrain in any freeride competition<br />
on the planet. The conditions on the face over the last five years<br />
have been challenging, rendering the top of the mountain unsafe<br />
for freeride competition so lower start positions have been used<br />
instead. However, the snow and weather conditions aligned,<br />
making for an incredible display of riding from all the athletes.<br />
KIWI SPEED SKIER TAWNY WAGSTAFF CLAIMS FIRST<br />
WORLD CUP PODIUM OF HIS CAREER<br />
Tawny Wagstaff (Methven) has claimed the first speed skiing<br />
world cup podium of his career with a third place finish in<br />
Vars, France. This result also marks the first speed skiing<br />
world cup podium for a New Zealand athlete since FIS record<br />
keeping started in 2002.<br />
6//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
Wagstaff reached a mind-boggling speed of 212.61Kph to<br />
secure the bronze medal. He was just 1.9Kph behind sixtime<br />
speed skiing world champion Simone Origone of Italy<br />
who took the win. Simon Billy of France rounded out the<br />
podium in second place.<br />
Wagstaff said, “I am very happy, I have put a lot of work<br />
in over the last year so it is nice to see the rewards of my<br />
efforts. The course was in excellent condition with light<br />
winds. The top guys are something else, legends at what<br />
they do, generally only 1-2Kph separates the podium so<br />
can be very close.”<br />
Remaining calm before each race, knowing he is going to<br />
travel at incredibly high speeds, is an art. He explained; “I<br />
rely on many coaching techniques, deep breaths, being in<br />
the moment and trusting what I’m good at, it’s a challenge<br />
but what I live for. Taking in the intensity, it’s not often in life<br />
we can have this feeling so I make the most of it.”<br />
Wagstaff is also the current New Zealand speed skiing<br />
record holder. He clocked an incredible speed of<br />
248.61Kph in March last year at the same venue as today’s<br />
podium success.<br />
BOOK NOW<br />
fablehotelsandresorts | 03 318 6943<br />
623 Coleridge Road, Canterbury 7572
Queenstown done right...<br />
A winter wonderland<br />
of luxury<br />
accomodation<br />
RIDE FOR REFUGE<br />
FORGOTTEN WORLD ADVENTURES is excited to announce its<br />
inaugural fundraiser event to be held on Saturday 13th April 2024. They<br />
will be welcoming on board rugby royalty Sir Wayne Smith KNZM, who<br />
will ride the rails with members of the public who book to take part in<br />
this special event.<br />
Forgotten World <strong>Adventure</strong>s are proud supporters of the Taumarunui<br />
Women's Refuge & Support Centre, which provides vital support and<br />
services in the community in which they operate. All proceeds of the<br />
event will go to the Refuge as they attempt to promote awareness and<br />
support the women and families affected by violence. Their staff will<br />
also be donating their time to the cause.<br />
New Zealand rugby union coach and former player Sir Wayne Smith<br />
was assistant coach of the All Blacks for 16 years and is regarded as<br />
one of the greatest coaches in history, having won three Rugby World<br />
Cups, most recently as head coach of the Black Ferns in 2022. Wayne<br />
was promoted to Knight Companion of the New Zealand Order of Merit<br />
in 2023 for services to rugby and his charity work helping children with<br />
cerebral palsy.<br />
Nestled in the heart of Queenstown<br />
amidst a picturesque wonderland.<br />
Hulbert House provides a cosy<br />
luxurious escape, with views of the<br />
snow-capped mountains from your<br />
room. Relax by the fire and watch<br />
the snow drift down.<br />
Guests can expect a full day’s itinerary which will see the group travel<br />
with an expert guide and conductors along 40km of the old Stratford-<br />
Okahukura Railway line in self-driven rail carts through pristine native<br />
bush, beautiful farmland and forgotten townships, from Tokirima to the<br />
self-proclaimed, unique Republic of Whangamōmona. Commentary<br />
about the cultural and historical significance of the railway, its hand-built<br />
tunnels, bridges, pioneering engineers and the surrounding region will<br />
be provided at scheduled stops along the way.<br />
The event package costs $425 per person - all enquiries to be directed<br />
to bookings@fwa.co.nz or call 0800 7245 2278 to speak to the<br />
bookings team.<br />
Book directly and you can save up<br />
to 25% for multi-night stays.<br />
68 Ballarat Street, Queenstown
SURVIVAL<br />
the best laid plans<br />
of mice and men<br />
Images and text supplied by Tom Robinson<br />
Tom Mahuta Robinson is a 25-year-old adventurer<br />
and boatbuilder from Brisbane, Australia. In<br />
2022, aged 23, Tom set off from Peru, in a boat<br />
he designed and built, on his most ambitious<br />
adventure yet - to become the youngest person<br />
ever to row the Pacific Ocean.<br />
For the next 14 months Tom experienced the<br />
highs and lows of extreme adventure, facing many<br />
challenges along the way. He spent a total of 265<br />
days at sea in complete isolation, as well as many<br />
months living in harmony with the inhabitants of the<br />
remote islands he visited. The journey ended in a<br />
dramatic rescue off Vanuatu - Tom survived to tell<br />
the tale, break a world record as the youngest to<br />
row the Pacific, and share his story with you...<br />
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
A hat and sunglasses were essential, except when the camera was running
Tom training on the Brisbane River<br />
It was my fourth day at sea since departing Luganville, Vanuatu, on the last leg<br />
of my journey across the Pacific. I was hoping to make landfall in Australia in<br />
approximately 50 days. I was settling into what I knew would be a wet and bumpy<br />
passage back home, with Vanuatu experiencing its windiest season in over five<br />
years.<br />
All day I had been rowing quite comfortably, Maiwar (The boat, ‘Maiwar’, named<br />
after the Aboriginal name for the Brisbane River, is 24’ long (7.3m), 6’ wide (2m),<br />
and weights over one ton when fully loaded) was making her way westward at a<br />
good rate of knots and I had stayed basically dry while rowing with the 20 knot<br />
south-easters on the beam.<br />
At about 4:00pm local time I hung up the oars a little early and retired to the cabin<br />
to do a bit of navigating and prepare for dinner. As usual, I had been in the nude<br />
most of the day, as chafe is always an issue and, in those conditions, it only takes<br />
a few days to run out of dry clothes. Once inside the cabin I contemplated closing<br />
the hatch, but decided against it, as the conditions were relatively benign – (not a<br />
single wave had come aboard all day), – a fateful error of judgment.<br />
I was sitting on my bunk, looking out the hatch, and then, in a split second, my whole<br />
world was turned upside down. My view turned from blue sky to blue water, a huge<br />
crashing sound was heard, and Maiwar was capsized like a bath toy.<br />
There was no time for fear or even a thought, it all happened so quickly. The next<br />
moment I was holding my breath, I looked around me in complete shock, identified<br />
the open hatch, swam through it and made my way under the boat, through the<br />
afternoon-light pierced blue water and came up to the surface, gasping for breath<br />
as I grabbed onto the gunwale of an upturned Maiwar.<br />
My first thought was “Oh my God, it’s happened, the worst possible scenario has<br />
just become my reality”. I scrambled onto the upturned hull and took stock of the<br />
situation.<br />
His boat, Maiwar, under construction.<br />
Exploring the Penrhyn/Tongareva lagoon.<br />
By this stage it was getting dark, and I knew<br />
that of the two emergency position indication<br />
beacons (EPIRBS) I had on board, at least one<br />
would already be going off, due to a fault with the<br />
mounting bracket, and there would be no way<br />
to turn it off; whether I wanted help or not, my<br />
distress signal was going out to the world, and<br />
there was nothing I could do about it.<br />
I then re-entered the water and grabbed a heavy<br />
line, tied it to the rowlock on the starboard side<br />
of the boat, and climbed back on top of Maiwar. I<br />
then began to lean outboard with all my weight in<br />
an attempt to right the boat.<br />
The naked rower<br />
"OH MY GOD, IT’S HAPPENED, THE<br />
WORST POSSIBLE SCENARIO<br />
HAS JUST BECOME MY REALITY"<br />
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//13
" JUST AFTER DARK THE FULL<br />
GRAVITY OF THE SITUATION<br />
BEGAN TO SINK IN, DOUBT<br />
STARTED TO CREEP IN, AND THE<br />
THOUGHT OF MAKING IT OUT<br />
ALIVE SEEMED VERY SLIM INDEED"<br />
After a few tries I quickly realised that it was not<br />
going to happen before darkness set in, as by<br />
then it would be too dangerous to attempt anything<br />
further.<br />
I then tied the heavy sea-anchor line across the<br />
boat with enough room for a loop around my waist.<br />
In rapidly fading light I swam back under the boat<br />
and removed one of the EPIRBS from its holster<br />
and attached the lanyard to my wrist.<br />
For the next 14 hours I clung to the bottom of the<br />
boat, one hand gripping the keel, the other holding<br />
onto the EPIRB. Sometimes it took all my strength<br />
not to be washed off the boat by breaking waves.<br />
Just after dark I began to realise the full gravity<br />
of the situation, doubt started to creep in, and the<br />
thought of making it out alive seemed very slim<br />
indeed; it was not a good headspace to be in.<br />
Before too long, I came to grips with my situation<br />
and began to make plans. I decided to stay atop<br />
Maiwar for the night, then, on daybreak, try once<br />
again to right the boat, this time by moving stores<br />
around and flooding certain sections of the hull. I<br />
was quite confident I would be able to right the boat<br />
and continue on. The morning would also bring the<br />
chance to get to the food and water stored onboard.<br />
But before any of this I had to survive the night.<br />
I kept my chin up, and tried to make the most of<br />
a less than ideal situation. The way I looked at it,<br />
the worst possible thing that could have happened,<br />
had happened, so things could only get better from<br />
there on in.<br />
I began to sing: S.O.S by ABBA played on<br />
a continuous loop for a few hours while I<br />
contemplated my situation. I began to feel<br />
remarkably positive about the whole ordeal, and<br />
couldn’t help but smile in the face of adversity. If<br />
it was adventure I was looking for, I had certainly<br />
found it!<br />
As the night wore on, and on, and on, I came to<br />
terms with the fact that it would probably be the<br />
longest night of my life. I shuddered at the thought<br />
of a seemingly endless night still ahead of me.<br />
With all the hardship I was facing, the worst by far<br />
was the cold. Not since rowing up the South American<br />
coastline 14 months earlier, had I felt the need to<br />
wear a jumper or wrap myself in a sleeping bag,<br />
and there I was, stark naked and shivering through<br />
the night. Of course, the best remedy for physical<br />
discomfort is a strong mindset, and if there’s one thing<br />
that a rogue wave couldn’t take away from me, it was<br />
my strong mind and positive outlook.<br />
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//15
Tom entering Penrhyn/Tongareva lagoon after 160 days at sea<br />
Finishing touches<br />
Tom anchored in Pago Pago Harbour, America Samoa; 11 months after departing Peru.<br />
I thought warm thoughts, imagined a<br />
bonfire on Maiwar’s bottom, and relished<br />
the few times I was able to urinate on<br />
myself. But mostly I kept my mind active to<br />
distract my senses from the hardship that<br />
surrounded me; really no different from<br />
what I had been doing for the past year.<br />
And then, before I knew it, a faint blue<br />
appeared in the east. I couldn’t believe<br />
it. Already, the night was over, and soon<br />
enough, the sun would rise and warm my<br />
body, the day would begin, and my lot<br />
would improve. The longest night of my<br />
life had been shorter than I had expected.<br />
About an hour later, just as the sun<br />
began to rise above the eastern<br />
horizon, a black silhouette appeared<br />
on the horizon. A Ship!. I cried out for<br />
joy; safety was coming, and it was all<br />
going to be alright. The giant Auckland<br />
based cruise ship the Pacific Explorer,<br />
responded to my call for help. The cruise<br />
operator Carnival Australia diverted<br />
the cruise liner north of its course from<br />
New Caledonia to Vanuatu, and I was<br />
rescued just before 7am.<br />
Even after being rescued, the<br />
strangeness of the whole situation has<br />
not yet left me. The lens through which<br />
I view the world is still slightly refracted,<br />
but one thing has become very clear<br />
indeed: It was all worth it, every last<br />
minute, and to lament even a single<br />
moment would be an equally fateful error.<br />
Of the handful of people I have seen<br />
since my return, they seem to meet me<br />
with a melancholic smile, the corners of<br />
their mouths turn down and their eyes<br />
say sympathy very softly.<br />
Sympathy! Sympathy? Sympathy be<br />
damned! I made a mistake and I paid<br />
the price. So what if the ending was not<br />
how I expected?<br />
When I departed Peru 14 months<br />
ago perhaps it was not clear, even to<br />
myself, why I was rowing across the<br />
Pacific, but since then it has become<br />
well and truly clear. It wasn’t about the<br />
final destination; fame and glory can go<br />
the way of sympathy. They can all be<br />
damned.<br />
I went out into the Pacific chasing<br />
adventure, proper old-fashioned seatof-the-pants<br />
adventure. I went out into<br />
the Pacific to test myself, to challenge<br />
myself, to come face to face with the<br />
raw elements of man and nature; to<br />
learn what I could endure, how strong I<br />
was, how far mother nature could push<br />
me – where the limit lay.<br />
I went out into the Pacific to explore,<br />
to taste a different way of life, to live<br />
purposefully, traditionally and above all,<br />
happily.<br />
Success can be measured any way you<br />
like, indeed it’s one of the true beauties<br />
of life. Make it what you will, but above<br />
all, take away from it what you will.<br />
Before this journey of mine began I had<br />
no idea just how adventurous it would<br />
be, just how fulfilling, how beautiful, how<br />
hard, how torturous and how exciting it<br />
would all be.<br />
Real adventure is not a thing of the past,<br />
I discovered for myself that it’s still out<br />
there, alive and well, the ripe fruit are<br />
there for the picking.<br />
So do not lament for what could have<br />
been, for what went wrong and for what<br />
was expected. Do not frown. Please,<br />
rejoice with me.<br />
If there is one thing I have heard over<br />
and over again, it’s that those of you at<br />
home have enjoyed living this adventure<br />
vicariously through me, perhaps a rare<br />
chance to follow me through the far<br />
reaches of the earth and mind, where few<br />
ever go. And now, I look back on what<br />
has been, on every moment of despair<br />
and joy, and everything in between, and<br />
I cannot help but smile. I’m back home,<br />
an immense weight has been lifted off<br />
my shoulders, a weight I have carried for<br />
many years, and I cannot help but rejoice.<br />
Rejoice for what has been and for what is<br />
yet to come in life.<br />
In a short note I must, of course, thank<br />
the thousands of people around the<br />
world who have supported me<br />
" BEFORE THIS<br />
JOURNEY OF MINE<br />
BEGAN I HAD NO<br />
IDEA JUST HOW<br />
ADVENTUROUS IT<br />
WOULD BE, JUST<br />
HOW FULFILLING,<br />
HOW BEAUTIFUL,<br />
HOW HARD, HOW<br />
TORTUROUS AND<br />
HOW EXCITING IT<br />
WOULD ALL BE. "<br />
on this journey. It is only through the<br />
kindness, generosity and love of so<br />
many individuals that my adventure was<br />
successful.<br />
I cannot thank enough my family who<br />
supported me tirelessly from the very<br />
beginning, and who had a bit of a scare<br />
last week. .I would also like to apologise<br />
to the passengers whose holiday was<br />
interrupted by my situation.<br />
To the Australian Maritime Safety<br />
Authority, MRCC Noumea and all the staff<br />
of P&O Pacific Explorer, without your help<br />
I simply would not be writing this.<br />
After returning for an expedition to<br />
Papua New Guinea Tom Mahuta<br />
Robinson is now back in Brisbane,<br />
writing a book about his journey.<br />
Follow Tom:<br />
Instagram: tom_mahuta_robinson<br />
Facebook: Tom Mahuta Robinson<br />
Website: tomrobinsonboats.com<br />
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17
SURVIVAL<br />
Biblical Weather<br />
on the Routeburn Track<br />
Words and images by Gary Chesters<br />
The changing faces of Lake Harris on the Routeburn Track<br />
Even a little rain can make a big difference<br />
In the wild expanse of Fiordland, where rain is<br />
as common as sunshine, surviving a hike without<br />
a downpour is akin to winning the lottery. With<br />
over six meters of rainfall annually, and nearly<br />
200 rainy days, staying dry is a rare luxury. Yet,<br />
amidst the damp, there lies a silver lining—the<br />
rain unveils breath-taking waterfalls unseen in<br />
drier times.<br />
But nature's whims can turn from blessing to<br />
curse with very little warning. In January 2024,<br />
relentless rains, exacerbated by global warming,<br />
unleashed chaos across New Zealand's southern<br />
reaches. Torrential downpours submerged the<br />
land, triggering floods and creating landslides,<br />
wreaking havoc on iconic trails like the Routeburn<br />
and Milford Tracks.<br />
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
Among those caught in the maelstrom weather bomb were<br />
Queenstown locals, Gary Chesters and his hiking companion, Dale<br />
Le Maitre. What began as a gentle drizzle soon escalated into a<br />
deluge of biblical proportions, prompting an urgent need for not just<br />
a Plan B but a Plan C.<br />
Gary's first-hand account, shared through social media, painted a<br />
vivid picture of their journey; from carefree days by the clear blue<br />
rivers to the heart-stopping reality of navigating nature's fury.<br />
In the serenity of rivers and the security of marked trails, you might<br />
find solace. Yet, when nature unleashes her wrath, even the most<br />
serene landscapes become treacherous. We reached out to Gary,<br />
eager to hear his tale first hand of survival amidst the ferocity of an<br />
extreme weather event.<br />
"GARY'S FIRST-HAND<br />
ACCOUNT, SHARED THROUGH<br />
SOCIAL MEDIA, PAINTED<br />
A VIVID PICTURE OF THEIR<br />
JOURNEY; FROM CAREFREE<br />
DAYS BY THE CLEAR BLUE<br />
RIVERS TO THE<br />
HEART-STOPPING REALITY<br />
OF NAVIGATING NATURE'S<br />
FURY."<br />
Gary taking a dip on the Routeburn track only weeks<br />
before
GARY'S STORY<br />
“In the middle of January, 2024 we started off<br />
on the Routeburn and embraced the gentle<br />
drizzle, “just another day in the mountains” I<br />
thought. But things were about to change.<br />
Our original plan was to hike up to the high<br />
point and go off-trail camping to the Valley<br />
of the Trolls, but with the weather less than<br />
ideal we opted for option B, an overnight at<br />
Routeburn Flats Campground, only an hour<br />
and a half from the carpark at the start of the<br />
Routeburn. But what we really needed was a<br />
plan C – what to do in an emergency.<br />
We could sense that the weather was going<br />
to deteriorate so set up camp and braced<br />
ourselves for a rough night, totally unaware<br />
of the enormity of the situation ahead. At<br />
around 2am the rain hit and we hunkered<br />
down in our tents, but the rain was relentless<br />
and heavy. In the dark it’s hard to know what<br />
is happening outside but I have to admit that<br />
thoughts of the river breaking its bank and<br />
flooding our tent sight in the pitch black of<br />
night did pass my mind and we got very little<br />
sleep after that.<br />
There was a certain relief when day broke,<br />
but it did not stop the rain from falling.<br />
Eventually it subsided and we assumed we<br />
were through the worse of it so ventured<br />
on a side trip up to the Routeburn Falls,<br />
a couple of hours up. It didn’t take long<br />
before the rain returned and once again it<br />
poured, torrents of water cascaded down the<br />
mountains transforming the serenity.<br />
As we returned to the flats the mountains<br />
seemed to reach saturation point and<br />
everything just let go! There were waterfalls<br />
popping up everywhere and the Routeburn<br />
River changed in front of our eyes. One<br />
minute it was a peaceful river, the next a<br />
raging torrent with now angry brown dark<br />
streaks gushing in its wake. The river<br />
became its own creature.<br />
At first we watched in awe, mesmerized<br />
by the transformation, until a feeling of<br />
seriousness overcame us. It was now rising<br />
30cm every 15 minutes with no signs of<br />
slowing down. It was at this point that I<br />
glanced over at my tent to see it was now<br />
underwater. The next minute the river broke<br />
its bank and engulfed the flats campground.<br />
Excitement, and maybe a splash of<br />
adrenaline got the better of me. My plan<br />
was to retreat to higher ground, batten down<br />
the hatches and watch the show unfold.<br />
However, after a quick back and forth with<br />
my hiking buddy, the consensus was to pull<br />
the pin and get out of there. In retrospect, a<br />
more sensible move.<br />
The track from Routeburn Flats back to the main entrance soon began to disappear<br />
"AT FIRST WE WATCHED IN<br />
AWE, MESMERIZED BY THE<br />
TRANSFORMATION, UNTIL<br />
A FEELING OF SERIOUSNESS<br />
OVERCAME US. "<br />
After talking with the park ranger we figured out a<br />
turnaround section in case things got really bad, and set<br />
off back to the carpark. It was here the chaos began.<br />
Water was trying to breach everywhere, flowing with<br />
brutal force across the hiking trails and access points.<br />
At one point, knee-deep in what was now a fast flowing<br />
river, boulders struck our feet and the reality of the<br />
situation we were in hit us. We had just exited the<br />
turnaround point when a huge log washed through<br />
the area where we had stood moments before. A few<br />
seconds earlier and it would have crushed us.<br />
We pressed on and based on the park rangers<br />
information, hoped that we were past the worse of it.<br />
Adrenaline surged through me, I was excited, worried,<br />
happy, scared, every feeling possible, all at once.<br />
Finally we saw the bridge, the last point of crossing and<br />
breathed a sigh of relief that the bridge was still intact.<br />
With the amount of water flowing and the sheer force<br />
of it we really didn’t feel safe until we crossed that last<br />
bridge.<br />
We later found out that over 300mm of rain had fallen in<br />
a 48 hour period.<br />
The mountains are truly an untamed beast; not<br />
having the right equipment and knowledge in such<br />
environments can be fatal, and sometimes is. These<br />
tools and an experimental mindset are essential as<br />
the weather can, and sometimes does, change for the<br />
worst.”<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21
FLASH FLOODS CLAIM MORE<br />
LIVES EACH YEAR THAN ANY<br />
OTHER EXTREME WEATHER<br />
EVENT.<br />
Trickling streams turned into waterfalls<br />
SO WHAT CAN YOU DO TO HELP<br />
SURVIVE.<br />
1.PLAN AHEAD:<br />
STAY UP-TO-DATE WITH NATIONAL<br />
WEATHER FORECASTS AND IF THE<br />
RISK OF FLASH FLOODING IS HIGH,<br />
POSTPONE YOUR TRIP.<br />
2.KNOW YOUR ROUTE:<br />
UNDERSTANDING THE ELEVATION<br />
AND TOPOGRAPHY OF YOUR<br />
DESTINATION IS VITAL. KNOW THE<br />
HIGH GROUNDS AND ALSO BE<br />
AWARE OF FLOOD PRONE AREAS.<br />
3.PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR<br />
SURROUNDINGS: STAY VIGILANT AND<br />
EVACUATE IMMEDIATELY IF YOU<br />
NOTICE A DRY RIVERBED FILLING<br />
WITH WATER OR IF STREAMS AND<br />
RIVERS TURN MUDDY OR CLOUDY.<br />
Walking the "track" moments before a large boulder came through right where we had once been<br />
Below: Routeburn Falls in full flow<br />
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS WITH GARY<br />
Things obviously got scary there for<br />
a while, how did you cope having to<br />
make serious decisions? There are a<br />
few points where I stopped to come back<br />
to myself, 3 deep breaths, grounded<br />
myself before making a decision. I think<br />
that’s quite important as sometimes, we<br />
just make decisions without really coming<br />
back to ourselves mindfully. So, rather<br />
than reacting, acting from that place of<br />
more calmed state of mind.<br />
What’s some lessons you have learnt<br />
in life that have helped you in this<br />
situation? Whilst learning myself to<br />
become a dive instructor and rescue dive<br />
instructor I learnt how to imagine a series<br />
of the worst case scenarios happening.<br />
The secret is to not to dwell on them as<br />
they can manifest, but if you prepare<br />
yourself mentally if the worst does happen<br />
you're already prepared. Then, rather<br />
than reacting with fear, you can react from<br />
a more grounded position.<br />
What do you think was the best<br />
decision you made? To stay calm -<br />
acting not reacting. In regard to the actual<br />
decision, it was a team-made decision<br />
to go. I believe it was the right one in the<br />
end.<br />
What, if any, was the worse decision<br />
you made? Crossing the last river -<br />
where the log nearly hit us. In the end, it<br />
was the right move on both counts but it<br />
could have been very different. In such<br />
times, having a calm head makes all the<br />
difference and that comes with experience<br />
and time.<br />
What advice would post-trip Gary give<br />
pre-trip Gary? Nothing really. I feel I<br />
had all the right kit and the experience.<br />
(maybe pack more food).<br />
How has this trip affected any future<br />
trips or planning? The weather changes<br />
even surprised me, I think always hope<br />
for the best, but plan for the worst. And<br />
remind myself, regardless, that indeed -<br />
things can change, and do sometimes.<br />
The downside to experience is if not<br />
checked, the experienced hiker/trekker<br />
can become complacent.<br />
Any other tips? It’s great practice to take<br />
some form of emergency beacon/ SOS<br />
device in case things get really dicey, so<br />
you can contact emergency services. And<br />
it’s always great to hike with a buddy and<br />
a lot safer.<br />
Having the right equipment is essential.<br />
An old mountain guide told me to always<br />
pack a headlamp and rain jacket,<br />
regardless of the weather. That way, if<br />
you’re by yourself and you fall or get<br />
stranded, you can see, and other people<br />
can see you. You can also stay dry and, to<br />
a degree, warm when layered. They don’t<br />
weigh a lot, and they could save your life.<br />
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
SURVIVAL<br />
Free solo.<br />
Calculated risk<br />
or a tragedy<br />
waiting to happen?<br />
Words and images by Derek Cheng<br />
The monitor-sized block that almost swept me from<br />
the ridge of the Evolution Travers in the Sierra Nevada,<br />
California.<br />
The handhold that broke and nearly ejected me<br />
towards oblivion on the southern flanks of Mount<br />
Robson, Canada.<br />
The panic that engulfed my friend who, climbing<br />
ropeless in the Wyoming’s Cirque of the Towers, had<br />
to compose herself to avoid being swallowed up by the<br />
gaping, exposed nothingness reaching for her ankles.<br />
The giant rock block that I dislodged but managed<br />
to catch on my knees, which would have otherwise<br />
eviscerated the four climbers below me in Canada’s<br />
Bugaboo mountains.<br />
There’s been a lot of debate about the rights and<br />
wrongs of free soloing, especially in light of the<br />
publicity of Alex Honnold’s scarcely believable free solo<br />
of El Cap in Yosemite.<br />
Discussions among climbers traverse whether it should<br />
be done at all, given the obvious risks, and if so, how.<br />
This isn’t a treatise imploring you to go out and try it,<br />
but rather an exploration of the rationale.<br />
Keenan Waeschle at dawn on top of<br />
one of the nine peaks that make up the<br />
Evolution Traverse<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25
Much of the public perception is<br />
misguided, casting free soloists as<br />
adrenaline junkies who test themselves<br />
in the most extreme way possible. This,<br />
in my experience, has no basis in truth.<br />
You don’t simply take a fancy to a line<br />
and decide to jump on it without much<br />
thought.<br />
Most free solos are likely to be<br />
on grades where a fall—and any<br />
adrenaline—is highly improbable, or on<br />
routes you’ve climbed so many times<br />
that you’re on auto-pilot. Even Honnold<br />
spent two years climbing Freerider<br />
(5.13a/28) with a rope before he<br />
committed to trying it ropeless.<br />
And while there is definitely a rush,<br />
it’s nothing like the pulsing feeling<br />
of throwing for a 50/50 move when<br />
you’re under lactic acid attack and your<br />
forearms are bulging out of your skull.<br />
If you’re doing that and ropeless, then<br />
you’re truly mad.<br />
Instead it’s the most potent climbing<br />
flow, a total immersion in a zone that<br />
so enriches every pore and heightens<br />
every sense. The unique circumstances<br />
command your attention. You have<br />
no option but to master your fear and<br />
deal with anything that may or may not<br />
happen, from negotiating brittle rock to<br />
strenuous moves above a potentially<br />
lethal fall.<br />
Mastery in such a high stakes game<br />
can deliver a feeling akin to the<br />
transcendental.<br />
But, for me, this was the light at the<br />
end of a very long tunnel. For years I<br />
viewed free soloing, like most climbers,<br />
as simply too risky to even consider.<br />
Then one afternoon in the Pines—the<br />
campsite in the climbing haven of<br />
Arapiles, Australia —I was party to a<br />
conversation with far more experienced<br />
climbers about the virtues of simulclimbing.<br />
“You are basically soloing but in a safer<br />
way and with a bunch more gear,” one<br />
older, grislier climber was saying. “And<br />
it can be an essential skill if you’re in<br />
an alpine environment and trying to<br />
minimise the time exposed to objective<br />
hazards. In the mountains, with potential<br />
avalanche terrain or incoming storms,<br />
speed is often safety.”<br />
Arapiles, with its abundance of easy<br />
multi-pitch climbs, was the perfect place<br />
to try simul-climbing.<br />
This happens when two climbers are tied<br />
into a rope, but instead of one person<br />
belaying as the other climbs and places<br />
climbing protection to guard against a<br />
fall, they both move up at the same time.<br />
A fall from either climber will likely pull<br />
the other one off the wall, but as long as<br />
there are at least two pieces of protection<br />
between the climbers (in case one of<br />
them fails), the falls shouldn’t be fatal.<br />
It all depends, of course, on where you<br />
place the protection and how far the<br />
leader might be above the last piece.<br />
But in general, if done well, it’s safer<br />
than soloing but still much speedier than<br />
when the leader climbs and their partner<br />
belays.<br />
A buddy and I spent that afternoon<br />
simul-climbing, knocking off five multipitch<br />
trad routes in a few hours. It was<br />
exhilarating to move so quickly across<br />
so much rock.<br />
Comfort levels commonly expand as<br />
a challenging activity becomes more<br />
familiar. Several more simul-climbing<br />
days on grades no harder than 12<br />
peppered my Arapiles season, and the<br />
more familiar I became, the more my<br />
gear placements tended to become 10<br />
metres apart, rather than every third<br />
metre.<br />
Still, the thought of climbing ropeless<br />
was terrifying and, when a bunch of<br />
friends gang-soloed up Tiptoe Ridge (5),<br />
I stayed behind.<br />
Simul-climbing, however, became an<br />
essential tool in the alpine toolbox.<br />
One of the first occasions was in the<br />
Cirque of the Towers. An early start saw<br />
me and my friend at the base of the<br />
350m-high northeast face (5.8, 15) of<br />
Pingora, one of the 50 Classic Climbs of<br />
North America, with a double rack and a<br />
50m-half rope. One simul-pitch later, we<br />
were on the summit.<br />
The neighbouring peak, Wolf’s Head,<br />
also has one of the 50 classics, and we<br />
rappelled over to it and solo scrambled<br />
up the fourth class terrain at the base<br />
of the East Ridge (5.5/12). When it<br />
steepened, we tied in and simul-climbed<br />
to the top.<br />
"MUCH OF<br />
THE PUBLIC<br />
PERCEPTION<br />
IS MISGUIDED,<br />
CASTING FREE<br />
SOLOISTS AS<br />
ADRENALINE<br />
JUNKIES WHO<br />
TEST THEMSELVES<br />
IN THE MOST<br />
EXTREME WAY<br />
POSSIBLE."<br />
Mitch Woodward soloing Agamemnon, the classic grade 11 climb at Arapiles, Australia<br />
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
The truth is that you’ve probably done<br />
some free soloing if you’ve ever done<br />
any alpine routes. It is rare to rope up for<br />
any and all mountain terrain. Some will<br />
be comfortably ropeless while crossing<br />
glaciers on well-trodden boot tracks, or<br />
scrambling up non-technical approaches,<br />
or climbing more technical rock.<br />
I was still very cautious the first time I<br />
ended up soloing technical terrain. It was a<br />
300m-long corner system called Joy (5.6,<br />
13) on Mt Indefatigable in the Canadian<br />
Rockies. We intended to climb it as a party<br />
of three, but I decided to start soloing up to<br />
take photos of my friends from above.<br />
I wore a harness with a half-rack of cams<br />
so I could build an anchor, sit on gear<br />
and wait for a rope if I was in any way<br />
uncomfortable. But I didn’t end up needing<br />
them.<br />
When I topped out, I was acutely aware<br />
of the awesome tremendousness of the<br />
experience.<br />
I slowly branched out. The trade route<br />
on Sir Donald, a gorgeous 5.4/12 line up<br />
the northwest ridge, takes a whole day if<br />
pitched out, but is a casual few hours as a<br />
solo. And a fine one it is, with mostly easy<br />
scrambling and huge holds wherever the<br />
terrain steepens.<br />
A bluebird day accompanied me from<br />
Irene’s Arete (5.8/16) up Disappointment<br />
Peak, in Grand Teton National Park, to<br />
Exum Ridge (5.7/15) on the majestic<br />
Grand Teton.<br />
The Sierra Nevada has so many peaks<br />
that there is literally no limit to potential<br />
link-ups. One of the most popular is<br />
combining the southeast buttress of<br />
Cathedral Peak (5.6/14) with Matthes<br />
Crest (5.7/15), a nearby mile-long fin of the<br />
most exquisite granite.<br />
Soloing eventually became an integral part<br />
of trying alpine traverses or grand link-ups,<br />
one of the most memorable being a fourpeak<br />
day in the Canadian Bugaboos. It<br />
started with simul-climbing most of McTech<br />
Arete (5.10a/18) to the top of Crescent<br />
Spire, simul-climbing the first three pitches<br />
and then soloing the rest of the northeast<br />
ridge of Bugaboo Spire (5.8/16), soloing<br />
the west ridge of Pigeon Spire (5.4/12),<br />
and then pitching out the harder sections<br />
of the ultra-classic Beckey-Chouinard<br />
(5.10d/20) on the South Howser Tower.<br />
It was on this latter peak that I dislodged a<br />
huge block with my hand, but managed to<br />
catch on my knees before gently dropping<br />
it on a ledge. It would have flattened one<br />
or all of the four climbers below me. The<br />
immenseness of the narrowly-avoided<br />
consequences was written all over the<br />
open-mouthed, eye-bulging face of the<br />
climber next to me as he belayed his<br />
leader above. A quick reminder of how<br />
easily things can go wrong.<br />
Similarly tragic consequences were<br />
narrowly avoided during our traverse of<br />
The Cirque of the Towers, in Wyoming,<br />
which ticks 12 summits. My diminutive<br />
friend Cat didn’t have the wingspan to<br />
comfortably reach a good handhold<br />
above a gaping abyss of nothingness.<br />
She started to panic, couldn’t reverse the<br />
move, and I quickly moved towards her<br />
intending to offer her my outstretched<br />
hand. Just as I could reach her, she<br />
committed to the move and avoided what<br />
would have been a deadly fall.<br />
And on the Evolution Traverse, a spine of<br />
granite crossing nine peaks (5.9/17) and<br />
with more than 3000m of elevation gain<br />
and loss, I narrowly dodged the firing line<br />
several times as my movement wobbled<br />
titanic boulders.<br />
Once my weighty heft broke off a foot<br />
nubbin, throwing me gracelessly onto a<br />
ledge. Luckily it was only a metre below<br />
me, and a mildly sore bottom was the only<br />
consequence.<br />
Towards the latter peaks, I leapt from one<br />
rock and landed on a lichenous boulder<br />
that instantly dismissed my footing, forcing<br />
me to throw down my upper body in a<br />
desperate bid for purchase. Each time I<br />
emerged with nothing more than a scratch.<br />
Pause, breathe. Reset, continue.<br />
The final two peaks offered the best<br />
climbing: excellent rock, steep climbing on<br />
solid holds, and a jubilant anticipation that<br />
grew with each step.<br />
I spent the following days eating burgers,<br />
soaking in hot pools, and contemplating<br />
the pros and cons of free soloing. Every<br />
discipline of climbing has an element of risk,<br />
and every climber makes an assessment<br />
based on experience, temperament of the<br />
day, objective hazard of the route, etc. One<br />
climber’s epic free solo is another’s casual<br />
outing in approach shoes.<br />
"TOO RECKLESS?<br />
THAT DEPENDS<br />
ON ALL THE<br />
ELEMENTS IN<br />
THE EQUATION,<br />
AND ONE OF<br />
THE BIGGEST<br />
ELEMENTS IS<br />
‘YOU’. ANOTHER<br />
IS RANDOM,<br />
INDISCRIMINATE<br />
LUCK."<br />
The Evolution Traverse, a spine of granite crossing nine peaks (5.9/17) and with more than 3000m of elevation gain and loss, where I narrowly<br />
dodged the firing line several times as my movement wobbled titanic boulders.<br />
Many climbers choose their routes because of the risk<br />
factor. That is, they are aware of what lies ahead and<br />
willingly embrace it.<br />
Sometimes catastrophe strikes. I’ve narrowly avoided<br />
one of my own when I was hit by rockfall that broke<br />
several bones in my face, neck and back. Just last<br />
month a friend - a highly skilled and experienced<br />
climber - fell to his death while soloing one of the<br />
smaller granite walls above Yosemite in California.<br />
Does that make it reckless? Probably. Undoubtedly more reckless<br />
than sitting at home watching TV. But if we never did any activity<br />
that might end in injury, we would never do anything.<br />
Too reckless? That depends on all the elements in the equation,<br />
and one of the biggest elements is ‘you’.<br />
Another is random, indiscriminate luck. You could be the most<br />
prepared person in the history of the world and be swallowed in a<br />
freak rockfall, or the world’s most careless gumby and come home<br />
completely unscathed.<br />
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29
SURVIVAL<br />
the fatal<br />
pursuit of<br />
social media<br />
stardom<br />
"FROM DAREDEVIL<br />
STUNTS TO<br />
DANGEROUS<br />
CHALLENGES, THE<br />
QUEST FOR<br />
ONLINE<br />
VALIDATION<br />
HAS CLAIMED<br />
NUMEROUS<br />
LIVES."<br />
In the age of social media, the quest for attention and validation and click bait<br />
income has led individuals to increasingly extreme activities in the pursuit of viral<br />
fame. The allure of likes, shares, and comments has driven some to engage in<br />
dangerous stunts and challenges, resulting in tragic consequences. The morbid<br />
question that looms over this trend is, how many people have lost their lives in<br />
the relentless pursuit of the perfect social media post?<br />
The statistics surrounding fatalities linked to extreme activities for social media<br />
content are alarming. From daredevil stunts to dangerous challenges, the quest<br />
for online validation has claimed numerous lives. Despite the evident risks, the<br />
temptation to go to more extraordinary lengths for that perfect shot or video has<br />
proven fatal for too many.<br />
One of the primary culprits behind these tragedies is the constant pressure to<br />
outdo previous feats and create content that stands out in an oversaturated<br />
online landscape. Social media platforms, while providing a platform for selfexpression,<br />
can also inadvertently fuel a culture of one-upmanship, pushing<br />
individuals to push safety boundaries for the sake of engagement.<br />
Whether it’s cliff diving, hugging a lion, or participating in a cliff edge selfie. The<br />
desire for a moment of internet fame blinds them to the potential life-threatening<br />
outcomes.<br />
This trend has prompted discussions on the ethical responsibilities of both<br />
content creators and platforms. Social media influencers face scrutiny for their<br />
role in glamorising risky behaviour without adequately emphasising the potential<br />
dangers.<br />
A simple warning on a video of someone plummeting to their deaths is not is<br />
discouragement but more of an appetiser.<br />
The toll of lives lost in pursuing social media stardom is an unfortunate reality.<br />
How you curtail this trend without impeding personal freedom, it is right to<br />
say ‘Well its their choice’ and it is, however, the impact of one-upmanship, in<br />
particularly with youth, (and those dealing with youth know the impact of social<br />
media) should there not be a more concentrated effort to limit the impact from the<br />
platforms where they post, or is that threatening free speech?<br />
WOULD BE GOOD TO<br />
HAVE SOME NUMBERS<br />
HERE OR SOME OTHER<br />
STATISTICS SUCH AS<br />
GRAND CANYON SELFIE<br />
DEATHS AND OTHER<br />
STUFF<br />
WU YONGNIN<br />
Wu Yongning went out to do what he loved<br />
best - scale a skyscraper without safety<br />
equipment and film himself dangling off its<br />
roof by his fingertips.<br />
What happened next almost seems<br />
inevitable - the Chinese climber fell,<br />
plunging 62 storeys to his death.<br />
Beijing News investigation found that<br />
Mr Wu had posted more than 500 short<br />
videos and livestreams on Huoshan,<br />
garnering a million fans and earning at<br />
least 550,000 yuan ($126,000).<br />
Huoshan had prominently promoted his<br />
videos as recently as June. The last being<br />
a shocking clip of what appeared to be his<br />
final moments, his fatal attempt to scale a<br />
building in Changsha city.<br />
LUCKY ESCAPE<br />
A woman was mauled by a<br />
jaguar in Arizona after entering<br />
a zoo enclosure to take a selfie.<br />
She luckily received<br />
non-life-threatening injuries.<br />
30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31
SOFIA CHEUNG<br />
32-year-old influencer Sofia<br />
Cheung died after slipping and<br />
falling 5 meters in the Ha Pak Lai<br />
nature park, while she was taking<br />
a selfie with friends at the edge of<br />
a waterfall. Her Instagram account<br />
featured photos of her outdoor<br />
adventures, including scaling cliffs<br />
and mountaintops.<br />
32-year-old influencer Sofia<br />
Cheung died after slipping and<br />
falling 5 meters in the Ha Pak Lai<br />
nature park, while she was taking<br />
a selfie with friends at the edge of<br />
a waterfall. Her Instagram account<br />
featured photos of her outdoor<br />
adventures, including scaling cliffs<br />
and mountaintops.<br />
A 46-year-old Chinese tourist died<br />
after falling into the sea while taking a<br />
selfie on a cliff at Devil's Tears on Nusa<br />
Lembongan, off the coast of Bali.<br />
Six members of the same family drowned at<br />
Ramdaha Falls in Chhattisgarh. Two teenage<br />
sisters attempted to take a selfie but slipped<br />
into the water. Four other relatives tried to<br />
save them but they all drowned<br />
PATRICK WARD<br />
A New Zealand tourist fell to his death from a<br />
moving train on the World War II “death railway” in<br />
Kanchanaburi province in western Thailand.<br />
Patrick Ward, 45, had come with a group led by<br />
a tour guide from River Kwai bridge and rode<br />
the train yesterday to see the death railway, also<br />
known as the Thai-Burma Railway.<br />
Ward opened a door of the train and tried to take<br />
a selfie to show the view outside but he slipped<br />
on the steps at the door and fell to his death.<br />
The tour guides had warned travellers not to lean<br />
out of the carriages, which have open spaces<br />
where they connect. Doors can also be opened<br />
for passengers to sit on the steps and they can<br />
also lean from the windows.<br />
REMI LUCIDI<br />
French daredevil Remi Lucidi died after<br />
falling from the 68th floor of a Hong Kong<br />
skyscraper, according to reports.<br />
The 30-year-old, known as “Remi<br />
Enigma” on Instagram, lost his footing<br />
outside a penthouse apartment at the<br />
721-foot-tall Tregunter Tower,<br />
After gaining access to the high-rise by<br />
telling a security guard that he was there<br />
to visit a friend on the 40th floor, Lucidi<br />
made his way to the top floor, according<br />
to Sky News.<br />
Lucidi was seen on surveillance camera<br />
exiting the elevator on the 49th floor and<br />
again on the staircase to the top floor,<br />
where a door had been forced open.<br />
32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//33
SURVIVAL<br />
Organic evolution<br />
the essence of<br />
business Survival<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> and Media has been involved with Nick<br />
Montague -Brown and Outdoor Action for over 20 years. In a world<br />
where adventure retailers are being gobbled up by consumer giants<br />
and evaporating like early morning dew under the withering heat<br />
of corporation expansion. Outdoor Action not only survived but has<br />
developed and expanded. Now twenty years down the adventure retail<br />
road this is their story:<br />
Where did it all start? Purchasing<br />
Outdoor Action wasn’t exactly an<br />
impulsive decision. At the time, we<br />
were residing overseas in Brazil, deeply<br />
engrossed in the preparations for our<br />
wedding, seeking a fresh challenge. Our<br />
search for new opportunities led us to<br />
explore various business listings online.<br />
That's when we stumbled upon Outdoor<br />
Action. With a lifelong passion for the<br />
outdoors and a history of adventurous<br />
pursuits, this opportunity struck a chord. It<br />
presented a seamless blend of business<br />
and pleasure.<br />
What was it like in the beginning?<br />
They were intense and long, starting our<br />
days at 6:00 am and often not finishing<br />
until midnight or later, seven days a<br />
week. This routine continued for almost<br />
the first year. We were deeply immersed<br />
in understanding the local New Zealand<br />
outdoor industry and building relationships<br />
with customers and suppliers. There<br />
were mistakes, or as I prefer to call them,<br />
'learning curves'. But with each challenge,<br />
we grew more knowledgeable and<br />
adaptable, a process that still continues.<br />
After being in the adventure retail<br />
business for over 20 years what are the<br />
key elements to business survival?<br />
Celebrating 20 years in the adventure<br />
retail sector, Outdoor Action's<br />
longevity is rooted in unwavering<br />
customer satisfaction, honesty, and<br />
trust. Communication is key, ensuring<br />
transparency with customers, suppliers,<br />
and partners alike. Our ability to make<br />
tough decisions and build a dedicated<br />
team underpins our success. These<br />
core principles have guided us through<br />
two decades and promise a future of<br />
continued adventure and exploration.<br />
Was there trepidation at losing the<br />
retail store and going online only?<br />
Certainly, transitioning to an online-only<br />
model was a risk, as with any major<br />
business decision. In business, there<br />
are no guarantees; success requires<br />
hard work, passion, and dedication, and<br />
sometimes even those aren't enough.<br />
We had our concerns, but our belief in<br />
ourselves and the positive feedback from<br />
both new and long-standing customers,<br />
who assured us they would continue their<br />
support, gave us the confidence to move<br />
forward.<br />
"IN BUSINESS, THERE<br />
ARE NO GUARANTEES;<br />
SUCCESS REQUIRES<br />
HARD WORK, PASSION,<br />
AND DEDICATION, AND<br />
SOMETIMES EVEN THOSE<br />
AREN'T ENOUGH."<br />
With the transition from bricks and<br />
mortar what is the key to the survival<br />
of an online store? As we've embraced<br />
a fully online presence, it's important<br />
to note that we're not newcomers to<br />
the digital space. Our journey online<br />
has been concurrent with our physical<br />
store operations, providing us with a<br />
wealth of experience and insights that<br />
have been invaluable in our transition.<br />
This longstanding familiarity with the<br />
online world has been a key factor in<br />
understanding what it takes to succeed<br />
digitally.<br />
A user-friendly and easily discoverable<br />
online store is essential, supported by<br />
our efforts in organic search and targeted<br />
advertising. This ensures a frictionless<br />
shopping experience from discovery to<br />
purchase.<br />
Our commitment to delivering on our<br />
promises has always been a bedrock of<br />
our reputation, addressing any issues<br />
quickly to ensure customer satisfaction.<br />
Moreover, balancing competitive pricing<br />
with the sustainability of our business is<br />
crucial. We strive for a pricing strategy<br />
that's both smart and fair, enabling<br />
customers to make informed decisions<br />
with confidence.<br />
In essence, our enduring online presence<br />
has not just been about survival; it's been<br />
about leveraging our experience to build<br />
trusted relationships and guide our store<br />
towards sustained success in the digital<br />
marketplace.<br />
Transition from brick and mortar to<br />
fully online what was the biggest<br />
mistake you made? Transitioning<br />
from brick-and-mortar to a fully online<br />
model didn't come with what I'd call<br />
mistakes, thanks to extensive planning<br />
and research. There were challenges,<br />
of course, but they were all within our<br />
realm of expectation. We were wellprepared<br />
for the financial demands of<br />
running an effective online adventure<br />
store, understanding that it would surpass<br />
the costs of operating a physical store in<br />
complexity and scale.<br />
Perhaps the most unexpected aspect<br />
was the need to retrain our team. Many<br />
had joined us with retail environments in<br />
mind and found themselves navigating<br />
a significantly different landscape<br />
in an office setting. This shift led to<br />
some turnover as we moved towards<br />
assembling a team dedicated entirely to<br />
ecommerce. It was a transition that, while<br />
challenging, ultimately shaped the robust<br />
and specialized team we have today.<br />
The journey taught us that success online<br />
isn't just about cutting costs; it's about<br />
strategic investment in the right areas—<br />
digital marketing, logistics, and team<br />
development. These investments have<br />
been essential in refining our approach,<br />
allowing us to better serve our adventureseeking<br />
customers and thrive in the digital<br />
marketplace.<br />
Transition from brick and mortar to<br />
fully online what was the biggest<br />
positive surprise you found?<br />
In navigating our transition from brickand-mortar<br />
to a fully online platform, I<br />
wouldn't say I encountered surprises<br />
in the traditional sense. This was<br />
largely because we embarked on this<br />
journey with thorough research and<br />
meticulous analysis. We didn't leave<br />
room for surprises; instead, we came<br />
in fully prepared, armed with insights<br />
and strategies to ensure a seamless<br />
shift. Our philosophy has always been<br />
to strive for perfection but plan for the<br />
worst. This approach empowered us to<br />
anticipate challenges and devise solutions<br />
proactively, turning potential hurdles into<br />
opportunities for growth and innovation.<br />
The smoothness of this transition<br />
reaffirmed the value of preparation and<br />
strategic foresight in business, highlighting<br />
the strength of our team and the<br />
robustness of our planning processes.<br />
"OUR PHILOSOPHY HAS<br />
ALWAYS BEEN<br />
STRIVE FOR PERFECTION<br />
BUT PLAN FOR THE<br />
WORSE."<br />
Specific brands survive and some<br />
do not in your opinion are their<br />
specific basics that a brand needs<br />
for longevity? In my view, the bedrock<br />
of a brand's longevity is unequivocally<br />
quality. There's a saying by Henry Royce,<br />
the British engineer, which encapsulates<br />
this belief perfectly: "The quality will<br />
remain when the price is forgotten." This<br />
philosophy is something we hold dear at<br />
Outdoor Action. We live by the rule that<br />
if we wouldn't use a product ourselves,<br />
we won't sell it. This commitment to<br />
quality has guided our selection of brands<br />
over the years. We've carried a wide<br />
range of brands, but we've been quick<br />
to cut ties with those that resulted in an<br />
excessive number of warranty claims and<br />
quality issues. It's a clear indicator to us<br />
that quality isn't their priority. From our<br />
experience, brands that fail to prioritize<br />
quality, to put it simply, don't make the cut<br />
in the long run. Ensuring the products we<br />
offer embody quality not only aligns with<br />
our values but also builds trust and loyalty<br />
among our customers, cementing our<br />
place and the brands we support in the<br />
market for the long haul.<br />
Why start bringing in your own<br />
brands? Our goal was clear: to offer<br />
high-quality products at competitive prices<br />
to Kiwi adventurers. Introducing our<br />
own brands became a strategic move to<br />
achieve this objective. It allowed us to go<br />
the extra mile for our customers, ensuring<br />
the perfect balance between quality and<br />
value. By having more control over our<br />
product offerings, we could provide a<br />
tailored experience that met the needs of<br />
our outdoor enthusiasts.<br />
Mountain Equipment stands out with<br />
its 65-year heritage. Although it had<br />
been in New Zealand for some time, its<br />
representation had faltered in the years<br />
before we took over, with a mismatch in<br />
product offerings. We saw the potential to<br />
realign and reintroduce these high-quality<br />
brands to Kiwi adventurers in a more<br />
relevant and effective way.<br />
What advice would today Nick Montague-<br />
Brown give Nick who was just starting<br />
off twenty years ago? Firstly, embrace<br />
patience. Building Outdoor Action is going<br />
to be a long journey filled with both triumphs<br />
and setbacks. Each challenge is a lesson in<br />
disguise, shaping you into the leader you'll<br />
become.<br />
Be adaptable. The landscape of our<br />
industry will change faster than you can<br />
imagine. Your ability to pivot and embrace<br />
new ideas will be crucial to staying relevant<br />
and successful.<br />
Invest in relationships. The connections you<br />
make with customers, suppliers, and your<br />
team are the backbone of this business.<br />
Trust and respect in these relationships will<br />
carry you through the tough times.<br />
Don't forget about your team. They're your<br />
greatest asset. Hire people who share your<br />
passion and vision, then trust them to bring<br />
those to life. Their growth is your business's<br />
growth.<br />
Lastly, hold onto your passion for adventure<br />
and the outdoors. It's why you started this<br />
journey. That genuine love is what makes<br />
Outdoor Action resonate with so many<br />
people.<br />
To the younger me, know that this<br />
adventure is as much about your personal<br />
growth as it is about the business. Keep<br />
these pieces of advice close and enjoy the<br />
journey ahead.<br />
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35
SURVIVAL<br />
failure in the<br />
name of safety<br />
Words and Images by Guy Cotter<br />
Back in 2018 we ran a story written by then CEO of<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> Consultants, Guy Cotter. This is possibly one of<br />
the most relevant pieces of writing and advice from one of<br />
New Zealand's most successful and competent adventures,<br />
as relevant today as it was when he wrote it...<br />
If you’re going to be a<br />
mountaineer you’ve got to<br />
make peace with the fact that<br />
you are going to be a failure,<br />
repeatedly. Over the course<br />
of your climbing career you<br />
will attempt climbs you won’t<br />
get up because you’re (pick<br />
one or more) too scared, too<br />
weak, too slow, too fast, too<br />
early, too late, too tired, too<br />
hungry, can’t see, chose the<br />
wrong partner, wrong clothes,<br />
you’re hungover, forgot the<br />
crucial equipment, brought too<br />
much equipment, brought too<br />
little equipment, toilet paper<br />
got wet, weather was too/hot/<br />
cold/wet/dry/windy, chose the<br />
wrong day/season/time of life<br />
and so on.<br />
In fact, the list of excuses<br />
for your upcoming string of<br />
failures is almost endless<br />
and over the course of your<br />
climbing career you use the<br />
entire spectrum of defences<br />
to explain how useless you<br />
really are.<br />
But we all know that in<br />
climbing these failures are<br />
justified, right? After all, the<br />
argument goes, we do have<br />
to fail at times in the name<br />
of safety. There is certainly<br />
no argument about that. We<br />
must be prepared to change<br />
our plans or back off a climb<br />
when the level of risk is too<br />
high. There are simply times<br />
when there is no doubt about<br />
the level of risk we are facing<br />
that makes retreat imperative,<br />
such as, a storm that drops<br />
lots of snow and creates an<br />
avalanche hazard that you<br />
can’t sit out until it stabilises,<br />
and you simply have to leave.<br />
But there are the other times<br />
when you’re just having a bad<br />
day, or you decide you hate<br />
your climbing partner and just<br />
cannot spend another moment<br />
with them or you have some<br />
other doleful reason to fail.<br />
Now you may not feel like<br />
returning to the pub/hut/basecamp<br />
and admit you backed off<br />
because you are so lame and<br />
that’s when you pull out the<br />
safety card. No one is going to<br />
criticise you for that because<br />
safety is paramount, and you<br />
can sometimes even convince<br />
yourself that your pitiful lack of<br />
willpower was actually justified<br />
for safety reasons.<br />
But, there are times when<br />
being a lame useless<br />
paranoid failure is exactly the<br />
right call even though you<br />
can’t properly explain your<br />
rationale. I’ve had many an<br />
experience (while failing)<br />
when I’ve not been able to<br />
articulate my reasoning and<br />
that `things just didn’t seem<br />
quite right. And yes, I have<br />
used a fair portion of the<br />
aforementioned excuses to<br />
justify my fallibilities.<br />
In fact, I’ve failed so often that<br />
I’ve got myself to a stage in<br />
life where I don’t mind failing.<br />
If there is a route that is too<br />
hard for me and I’m simply<br />
not good enough to climb it<br />
then I’m good with that. I’m so<br />
good at failing that my sense<br />
of self-worth is not destroyed<br />
by the thought of other people<br />
criticising me when I do fail.<br />
Now I can even apply this<br />
apathetic approach to the<br />
rest of my life and while<br />
I’m surrounded by type A<br />
personalities who are still<br />
stuck in the ‘80’s using jargon<br />
like ‘goal setting’ I’m blissfully<br />
living life without concern that I<br />
might be exposed as a failure<br />
because in reality I’m really<br />
accomplished at it!<br />
This revelation has been<br />
spawned through events<br />
that occurred to me in the<br />
course of my climbing career.<br />
I recall once when I was an<br />
aspirant guide I turned back<br />
on an ascent of Mt Cook<br />
while other guides were still<br />
continuing onwards, and they<br />
successfully summited. While<br />
they were comfortable, I was<br />
completely uncomfortable<br />
with the conditions, in my<br />
view it was too warm, and I<br />
couldn’t say to myself that if<br />
I continued with the ascent,<br />
that I was making the right<br />
decision with the information<br />
I had at hand. My poor client<br />
was devastated and quite<br />
rightfully made a complaint to<br />
the guide company and at the<br />
time I felt terrible about the<br />
whole thing.<br />
Just three years ago (now<br />
8 years) a similar event<br />
occurred on Mt Manaslu in<br />
the Himalayas. A storm laid<br />
down a heap of snow and the<br />
forecast was indicating an<br />
oncoming frontal system that<br />
would hit us after only three<br />
clear days. This didn’t give<br />
us enough time to give the<br />
snow slopes leading to high<br />
camp time to settle before we<br />
would be forced to have our<br />
Sherpa team climb the slope<br />
to stock the camp in time for<br />
us to follow the next day and<br />
summit the day after.<br />
A golden rule of snow<br />
safety tells us that 90% of<br />
avalanches occur during or<br />
the day after a storm. My<br />
experience in the Himalaya<br />
has shown me numerous<br />
times that the most dangerous<br />
time is the day following a<br />
storm when the sun has been<br />
on the slope only a short time.<br />
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
Making a decision whether to summit Manalsu straight after a storm can be a tricky one.<br />
"THIS WAS A SLOPE<br />
THAT WAS KNOWN TO<br />
AVALANCHE, IT SLID IN 2012<br />
AND 11 PEOPLE DIED, THE<br />
LIKELIHOOD OF AN<br />
AVALANCHE WAS HIGHEST<br />
THE FIRST DAY<br />
AFTER THE STORM.<br />
IT WOULDN’T BE TOO MUCH<br />
OF A PUSH TO SUGGEST<br />
THAT THE FACT NO-ONE<br />
DID DIE WAS MORE LUCK<br />
THAN SKILL (AND AGAIN, I<br />
WAS TRULY THANKFUL FOR<br />
THEIR LUCK)."<br />
There were a large number<br />
of groups on Manalsu that<br />
season and there was a lot of<br />
pressure to get to high camp to<br />
summit before the next storm<br />
that was forecast to arrive<br />
in a few days, which would<br />
shut the season down due<br />
to extremely high winds. As<br />
leader of that expedition I had<br />
a choice; I could break my own<br />
rules and send the Sherpas<br />
up that slope the day after<br />
the storm, or I could make a<br />
safety conscious choice, even<br />
if I wouldn’t be too popular for<br />
making it.<br />
We knew that other teams<br />
would be on that slope next<br />
day and there was a chance<br />
nothing would go wrong, and<br />
that people would get up that<br />
slope safely and then go on<br />
to summit. I told my team<br />
that I was going to look either<br />
like a sage in their eyes next<br />
day if people got avalanched<br />
on that slope, or an overly<br />
conservative failure if nothing<br />
occurred. Well, as it turned out,<br />
it was the latter. No avalanche<br />
took out the climbers on that<br />
slope and no-one died. I was<br />
very thankful for that outcome.<br />
But, and here is the guts of<br />
it, this was a slope that was<br />
known to avalanche (it slid in<br />
2012 and 11 people died) and<br />
the likelihood of an avalanche<br />
was highest the first day after<br />
the storm. It wouldn’t be too<br />
much of a push to suggest<br />
that the fact no-one did die<br />
was more luck than skill (and<br />
again, I was truly thankful for<br />
their luck).<br />
However, the question in my<br />
mind was whether people were<br />
still climbing this slope due to a<br />
fear of making a conservative<br />
call, or because they had no<br />
idea of what they were doing,<br />
or because they had more<br />
information about the state<br />
of that slope at the time and<br />
therefore knew more about it<br />
than I did?<br />
(I’m certainly happy to admit<br />
failure and learn something)<br />
I will never know the exact<br />
answer to that question and I<br />
suspect there were numerous<br />
differing reasons behind their<br />
decisions.<br />
Fast forward a couple of years<br />
and we are on Dhaulagiri<br />
making our summit attempt.<br />
The forecasts were projecting<br />
winds and snow, but our<br />
physical observations gave us<br />
no confidence in the forecasts,<br />
so we climbed to high camp in<br />
good weather. Our following<br />
summit day was flawless,<br />
resulting in our entire climbing<br />
team reaching the summit.<br />
Elation at making the summit of Dhaulagiri<br />
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
"SUCCESS IS THE<br />
OUTCOME I ALWAYS<br />
AIM FOR BUT WHEN THE<br />
STARS ARE NOT ALIGNED,<br />
AND THE SIGNS ARE<br />
CLEARLY INDICATING<br />
ONE SHOULD BE<br />
OPERATING ON THE<br />
RIGHT SIDE OF CAUTION<br />
IT’S A NO-BRAINER"<br />
A heap of snow and a frontal system, what would you do?<br />
The comparison in outcome<br />
between these two<br />
expeditions was palpable. As<br />
climbers we have to always<br />
be prepared to make safe<br />
calls. The irony is that if we<br />
always make calls that are<br />
too conservative, we’ll never<br />
get up anything. I know<br />
climbers who always pull the<br />
safety card and have never<br />
succeeded on anything.<br />
Sadly, I’ve also known plenty<br />
who perished because<br />
`conservative’ wasn’t in their<br />
vocabulary.<br />
The art is when to know to be<br />
conservative and when not to.<br />
There is no exact answer to<br />
this, accidents do just happen<br />
in the mountain environment,<br />
but as a minimum we should<br />
at least be observing the<br />
rudimentary and very basic<br />
rules around safety. There<br />
is an issue when people<br />
ignore or don’t know those<br />
rules around safety. Doing it<br />
once and getting away with<br />
it shouldn’t’ make you think<br />
you made the right call. Do<br />
it repeatedly and you will<br />
certainly get spanked.<br />
There is no better measure<br />
for assessing hazard than<br />
your own observations<br />
and a developing healthy<br />
respect for history. Carefully<br />
observing what is occurring<br />
around you at all times will<br />
reveal clues as to what is<br />
changing in a positive or<br />
negative way. Changes in<br />
temperature, sunshine and<br />
clouds, wind direction and<br />
strength, precipitation, snow<br />
texture and loading as well<br />
as heuristic factors, will all<br />
have an effect on the potential<br />
outcome of decisions you<br />
make and you will be better<br />
equipped to make judgement<br />
calls if you stay tuned in to<br />
these phenomena. There<br />
are often clues as to what<br />
hazards you are exposed to<br />
if you observe closely what is<br />
going on around you. Always<br />
have an opinion about what<br />
will happen next and reflect<br />
afterwards whether your call<br />
was correct or not.<br />
The historical data you want<br />
to know is whether there<br />
have been incidents on<br />
this slope/face/mountain/<br />
similar situation, as the most<br />
ignominious failure is to repeat<br />
an event that has occurred<br />
previously and could have<br />
been avoided had you used<br />
that history to structure your<br />
own campaign. Recent history<br />
is important too, keep track<br />
of what layers have been<br />
laid down in the snowpack<br />
through snowfall, humidity<br />
and wind events while you are<br />
there and try to find out what<br />
happened before you arrived.<br />
Failure is a relative term.<br />
In this age of expeditioning<br />
there are people that have<br />
climbed several of the world’s<br />
highest mountains who have<br />
succeeded on every climb<br />
they have undertaken due to<br />
them training appropriately<br />
and the efforts of experienced<br />
expedition operators to<br />
ensure their groups are<br />
successful. This trend has the<br />
potential to develop a cadre<br />
of mountaineers who do not<br />
know failure and therefore<br />
may not be able to appreciate<br />
the need for it at times.<br />
I always respect the effort<br />
and outlay for someone to<br />
be on a big mountain and I<br />
am fully aware that failure is<br />
painful and depressing after<br />
committing so much. Success<br />
is fantastic and should always<br />
be the end goal. It is the<br />
outcome I always aim for<br />
but when the stars are not<br />
aligned, and the signs are<br />
clearly indicating one should<br />
be operating on the right side<br />
of caution it’s a no-brainer –<br />
the crux of it is that you have<br />
to know what those signs are<br />
to be able to make those calls.<br />
40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
SURVIVAL<br />
surviving<br />
the<br />
olympics<br />
Words and images by Steve Dickinson<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> has a long<br />
relationship with the legendary surf<br />
break in Tahiti, called Teahupoo,<br />
going back over 20 years. The<br />
choice of Teahupoo as the venue for<br />
the Paris Games surfing event has<br />
sparked debate about the venue's<br />
appropriateness and athlete safety.<br />
With its reputation as one of the world's<br />
most ‘challenging’ waves, Teahupoo<br />
presents unique challenges for both<br />
organisers and competitors.<br />
Teahupoo has been part of surfing<br />
history. This Tahitian reef pass is etched<br />
in every surfer's mind from Laird’s<br />
Hamilton’s “Millennium Wave,” to the<br />
“Code Red” madness in 2011, Surfers<br />
have died here, and many more have<br />
been injured; on a big day with the<br />
right conditions it is one of the planet’s<br />
most amazing surfing spectacles. And<br />
all this happening in a tiny, incredibly<br />
picturesque village, surrounded by<br />
mountain at the end of the road on<br />
Tahiti Iti.<br />
When considering Teahupoo suitability,<br />
it's essential to understand the breaks<br />
unpredictable conditions. The chances<br />
of encountering ideal surf conditions<br />
during a predetermined four day<br />
waiting period are slim, even in the<br />
peak season. Unlike more versatile<br />
surf spots like Huntington Beach even<br />
Sunset Beach, Teahupoo demands<br />
specific criteria to be considered<br />
suitable – minimum 10-to-15-foot wave<br />
faces, light off-shore winds. Anything<br />
less than perfection won't meet<br />
Teahupoo standards.<br />
42//WHERE Code Red 2011 ACTIONS one of SPEAK the most LOUDER memorable THAN days WORDS/#243 in surfing history<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//43
It was so big it was like being in a cartoon<br />
At Teahupoo, surfing success is measured by one metric: riding<br />
barrels. Turns and cutbacks will get scored, but it's epic barrels or<br />
nothing.<br />
Considered by many the King of Teahupoo, local legend Raimana Van<br />
Bastolaer, when we asked about the Olympics in Teahupoo replied, “I<br />
think some will charge, some will stay on the side if it’s a big size wave<br />
… but we never know. Some will push themselves.”<br />
What about the competitors from all those “non-major” surfing nations,<br />
many of which will be facing this wave for the first time? Some will have<br />
qualified for this event by the ISA (International Surfing Association)<br />
heats held on four foot messy beach breaks. Is it sensible to put those<br />
athletes in such a risky situation before the world where the result of<br />
pushing yourself could be faceplanting on the coral reef?<br />
"REGARDLESS WHETHER THE OPTION TO<br />
HAVE THE OLYMPICS AT TEAHUPOO IS<br />
WISE, IT NEEDS TO BE MENTIONED THAT<br />
TAHITI AND HER ISLANDS HAVE SOME<br />
OF THE BEST AND MOST BEAUTIFUL<br />
WAVES IN THE WORLD; BEACH BREAKS<br />
AND REEF BREAKS WITH CRYSTAL CLEAR<br />
WATER ALL SET AMONGST BREATH<br />
TAKING SCENERY."<br />
44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//45
Make our island adventure<br />
playground your next stop<br />
And experience the world’s most welcoming adventure holiday<br />
Local Michele Bourez at Teahupoo at its best<br />
In twenty years of turning up for the WSL event at Teahupoo,<br />
which has a two-week waiting period, it has been good half<br />
a dozen times and epic twice. Let’s say that against all odds,<br />
the four-day-only waiting period allocated for the Olympics,<br />
produces some ‘epic’ Teahupoo; twenty-foot barrels out of<br />
the west. The real deal Teahupoo. What will happen then?<br />
With billions being earned for advertising rights, would the<br />
organisers deem it too dangerous and cancel?<br />
The view at the end of the road is spectacular<br />
"TEAHUPOO MEANS<br />
WALL OF SKULLS; LET'S<br />
HOPE THAT IS NOT AN<br />
OMEN"<br />
Despite these challenges, the Paris Olympic surfing event<br />
boasts familiar names from the Championship Tour (CT),<br />
professionals. A lot of big names have qualified to represent<br />
their country and will perform regardless of the conditions.<br />
But the Olympics should be different from another WSL<br />
event where the same professionals battle it out month on<br />
month. The Olympic Games motto is “Citius, Altius, Fortius –<br />
Communiter” - “Faster, Higher, Stronger – Together”- part of<br />
that togetherness is surely a level playing field for all.<br />
The decision to host the Paris Games surfing event at<br />
Teahupoo raises valid concerns over the environmental<br />
impact both on land and on the reef of the location and<br />
screams the even bigger question of its suitability, fairness<br />
and safety for the athletes.<br />
46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
Now, it's just a case of waiting and seeing what Mother<br />
Nature serves up.<br />
Worryingly Teahupoo means “Wall of skulls”, let’s hope that<br />
is not an omen.<br />
© Grégoire Le Bacon
SURVIVAL<br />
Testing Times in the<br />
Braeburn Range,<br />
Nelson Lakes<br />
Words and images by Eric Skilling<br />
Enduring a brutal storm in the middle<br />
of the night, collapsed tents, falling<br />
off a log into a stream, getting lost,<br />
unwelcome encounters with wasps,<br />
eels the size of pythons, a seconddegree<br />
burn injury, hitting the proverbial<br />
wall, and - a first for me - unwanted,<br />
uncomfortable, and unnecessary interpersonal<br />
conflict.<br />
Reaching the more remote Mole<br />
Saddle was an eventful five-days. A mix<br />
of rugged, steep, and overgrown paths,<br />
beautiful clear rivers and streams,<br />
magnificent views, vocal native birds,<br />
backcountry huts full of history and<br />
character, and secluded, peaceful<br />
camp sites. We also finished with the<br />
warm glow of comradeship that comes<br />
with shared adversity. This really was<br />
an adventure for the ages.<br />
Mandy and Ajay negotiating the narrow track to D'Urville Hut<br />
48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//49
1100<br />
1000<br />
900<br />
800<br />
Roberts Road to Speargrass Hut<br />
3 hours. Easy<br />
Stepping out from the carpark and<br />
into the stillness of native beech<br />
forests must be the perfect start<br />
to a 5-day trip. Lined with mosses<br />
and lichens, the path meanders<br />
past gullies filled with raucous<br />
waterfalls, and a canopy providing<br />
welcome relief from the summer<br />
sun. Speargrass Hut, a favourite<br />
of mine, and thoughtfully placed<br />
in the gently sloping valley under<br />
the imposing scree-covered slopes<br />
of Roberts Ridge. A couple of us<br />
chose a pleasant campsite in the<br />
regenerating forest nearby, with the<br />
company of an inquisitive weka.<br />
"AN HOUR LATER,<br />
AFTER SEARCHING,<br />
WADING THROUGH<br />
WATER UP TO OUR<br />
WAISTS AND MUD<br />
UP TO OUR KNEES,<br />
AND A BIT OF BUSH-<br />
BASHING, WE ENDED<br />
BACK WHERE WE<br />
STARTED."<br />
1200<br />
1000<br />
900<br />
600<br />
Speargrass Hut to D’Urville Hut<br />
8.5 Hours, 22km. Tougher<br />
Day two was a big step up. The elevation<br />
profile gives no indication of challenges we<br />
faced that day. Firstly, one of our members -<br />
for no apparent reason - suddenly ran out of<br />
energy, or “hit-the-wall” as they say. Luckily, his<br />
legs turned to jelly close to Sabine hut. Once<br />
there he was able to use the radio telephone<br />
and arrange a water-taxi trip to D’Urville Hut.<br />
We left him enjoying the company of other<br />
trampers, and the rest of us continued onto<br />
D’Urville hut.<br />
Spirits were high as we left Sabine Hut - our<br />
colleague was in safe hands, and the track<br />
ahead was wide and well graded. Reality<br />
hit soon after diverting off the route to Blue<br />
Lake and crossing the clear waters of the<br />
Sabine River.<br />
Within minutes we confronted washouts,<br />
drop-offs, and missing markers. Finally, we<br />
crossed the two bridges marked on the map,<br />
close to the D’Urville River and the hut. Any<br />
joy was short lived as we came across yet<br />
another waist-deep stream, spanned by a<br />
large log. I confidently stepped onto the log<br />
and edged my way across, calling for Antz to<br />
document this marvellous feat. Less than a<br />
metre from reaching the other side, I looked<br />
back to see who was following, which began<br />
a slow-motion tumble into the deepest<br />
section of the stream. Apart from dented<br />
pride I was disappointed to find Antz had<br />
failed to record the incident for prosperity.<br />
It was a relief to exit the forest and step onto<br />
the rocky river flats of the D’Urville river.<br />
Antz noticed a marker nailed to a large piece<br />
of driftwood lying in the centre of the flats<br />
- we headed towards it. An hour later, after<br />
Above: Another waist deep stream spanned by<br />
a large log allowed a dry crossing for most.<br />
Right: Chris on the Upper Sabine<br />
Image by Annette<br />
searching, wading through water up to our<br />
waists and mud up to our knees, and a bit<br />
of bush-bashing, we ended back where we<br />
started.<br />
Remarkably an eagle-eyed Mandy somehow<br />
spotted a yellow marker on the true-left of<br />
the river, hidden in amongst grass taller than<br />
herself. A little later we arrived at D’Urville<br />
Hut just in time to greet the water-taxi at the<br />
jetty.<br />
Antz then dropped his pack, stripped off<br />
boots and shirt and headed for a refreshing<br />
plunge off the jetty. Just as he was about to<br />
step off the edge, he noticed dark shapes<br />
in the water. Almost a dozen fat, black,<br />
metre-long eels slithered into view. He<br />
retreated. Later we learnt that another party<br />
had taken the plunge and will forever bear<br />
the scars from bites to the leg, finger, and<br />
embarrassingly, the butt.<br />
The day’s dramas did not end there. The<br />
contentment of the evening meal was<br />
shattered when a pot spilled, splashing<br />
Jacqueline’s thighs with boiling water.<br />
Thankfully, she was wearing woollen<br />
thermals which withstood the worst of the<br />
scalding liquid. Jacqueline is also a qualified<br />
nurse, with a fully stocked first-aid kit.<br />
Regardless, she coped with the pain and<br />
blisters amazingly well over the next few<br />
days.<br />
Lastly, the people conflict. It is not cool to<br />
arrive late, move someone else’s pack off<br />
a bunk, and claim the bunk for yourself.<br />
It is even less cool to then claim an extra<br />
mattress alongside yours for your gear. Hut<br />
etiquette 101 - be cool by acting respectfully<br />
or expect conflict.<br />
50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51
700<br />
650<br />
600<br />
550<br />
500<br />
450<br />
D’Urville Hut to Tiraumea Hut<br />
3 hours. A short day<br />
That night it began to rain. Initial plans to conquer Mt<br />
Misery were always going to be under review after the<br />
tortuous journey the day before, but when we heard the<br />
summit-track described as “rubbish!”, and the return<br />
times were “at least 9 hours” without the rain, we settled<br />
on a more modest target of Tiraumea Hut.<br />
After leaving the riverbed the track climbs steeply for<br />
about 250 metres into a beautiful beech forest. From<br />
there we meandered gently downhill to the hut. It helped<br />
when the wind began to drop with the rain easing to<br />
passing showers and bouts of warm sunshine.<br />
Tiraumea Hut is a classic backcountry hut, nestled on<br />
a grassy flat fifty metres from the river, and surrounded<br />
by lush forest. A sign over the door proudly announces,<br />
“Built in 1961; R Sutherland and R Osman”. Despite it<br />
being well maintained, it was also clear from the visitors’<br />
book that this dwelling has sheltered very few.<br />
1200<br />
equip<br />
yourself!<br />
1000<br />
900<br />
600<br />
Tiraumea Hut to Mole Saddle<br />
5 hours. Quite tough but not a long day<br />
Once again, the elevation profile does not do justice to<br />
the steep, leg-aching ascent shorty after leaving the hut.<br />
More dense podocarps and beech dominate this narrow,<br />
up-and-down route, with some steep and rocky gullies to<br />
scramble around.<br />
Low Prices Everyday<br />
Free NZ Shipping on<br />
orders over $150 for<br />
members<br />
Members Earn Equip+<br />
Loyalty Points<br />
shop online or instore<br />
equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />
62 Killarney Road,<br />
Frankton, Hamilton,<br />
New Zealand<br />
P: 0800 22 67 68<br />
E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />
Experience had taught us to identify the black beech<br />
favoured by invading wasps, but alas, the narrowness<br />
of the track led to inevitable close encounters. Both<br />
Mandy and I suffered their wrath this day after invading<br />
the territories of these unwelcome colonists. Personally,<br />
I did not have any longer-term effects from the attack,<br />
but Mandy endured painful swelling despite using<br />
antihistamine cream and taking a tablet.<br />
It was also my turn to hit-the-wall. Quite suddenly I<br />
found my heart rate reaching anaerobic levels at the<br />
slightest effort. I struggled on, thanks to the help and<br />
encouragement of the others, but it was a huge relief<br />
when we walked out above the bushline into sunshine<br />
and the alpine grasses below the Mole Saddle.<br />
And what a sight. To the northeast - over Mt Misery - the<br />
horizon dominated by the ragged peaks of the Cedric<br />
range. A brilliant white speck of ice marked the 2278<br />
metre Mt Hopeless, its summit clothed in a small blanket<br />
of passing cloud. Ahead of us the scrub covered Ella<br />
range hid all further views east. To the southwest the<br />
Matakitaki River was a meandering ribbon of silver in the<br />
afternoon sun.<br />
Deciding to camp where we stood was an easy decision<br />
- just below the saddle at about 1300 metres. We took<br />
full advantage of a gentle breeze and bright sunshine to<br />
dry out soggy gear, enjoy the views, and dine together<br />
under the backdrop of the surrounding mountains.<br />
"QUITE SUDDENLY I<br />
FOUND MY<br />
HEART RATE<br />
REACHING<br />
ANAEROBIC LEVELS<br />
AT THE SLIGHTEST<br />
EFFORT."<br />
The Storm – 10 hours. Tough<br />
Very wet and very windy<br />
An advantage of camping high is the<br />
spectacular views. A disadvantage is exposure<br />
to the elements. Around 11pm I was woken by<br />
a sudden gust and the staccato of raindrops<br />
on my tent. Within an hour Antz was adjusting<br />
pegs, guy ropes and pole attachments as his<br />
tent was laid flat by gusts of wind.<br />
Another tent had lost all its pegs and was<br />
flapping like a flag in a hurricane. That<br />
occupant emerged dazed, damp, and<br />
disorientated, but within minutes she was cosily<br />
bundled in the tent of her knight-in-shiningthermals.<br />
Ajay’s chivalry is now legendary. I<br />
must make a plug for my single-person Macpac<br />
Microlight which kept me dry and warm all night<br />
despite the battering.<br />
1400<br />
1200<br />
1000<br />
900<br />
600<br />
Jamieson Track<br />
3 hours. Easy<br />
Unsurprisingly, we were all up before 6am, packed and<br />
heading down the small stream that was once the Jamieson<br />
track, and the shelter of the mature beech forest. Fortunately,<br />
the storm eased within an hour, leaving us with genuine joiede-vivre<br />
as we congratulated each other after crossing the<br />
farm fence at the end of the track.<br />
This trip had exceeded everything I expected, but also left me<br />
promising to be back - there is so much more to explore and<br />
enjoy out here.<br />
I prefer to use Jetboil, Backcountry and Macpac product,<br />
especially Macpac Tents.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//53
SURVIVAL<br />
Surviving the<br />
worlds scariest lifts<br />
Words and images by Phil Clark from Mad About Travel<br />
Skiing is one of the best pass times ever and<br />
over the years it has offered me some incredible<br />
experiences. Throughout the world ski resorts all<br />
have a few things in common, mountain scenery,<br />
fast paced action, downhill thrills and scary lifts!<br />
Often to get to some of the best terrain you need<br />
to brace yourself for a frightening ride! Braving<br />
your fears is one of the best things about skiing,<br />
people face fear in many ways. Riding lifts which<br />
frighten the bejesus out of you just piques your<br />
experience and makes the reward even better.<br />
Here are some of the most epic ski lifts I have<br />
found throughout the world.<br />
NEW ZEALAND<br />
Craigieburn, Southern Alps – Located on the<br />
way to Arthurs pass this club ski field has some<br />
of the best two natural powder bowls in the South<br />
Island of New Zealand. It also has one of the<br />
wickedest “Nut Cracker “ rope tows. Fast and<br />
unforgiving the technique is to ski up to the rope,<br />
flip your “nut cracker” onto it, and hang on! In<br />
about 8 minutes you will be at the top about to ski<br />
some of the best powder in NZ.<br />
Treble Cone, Wanaka – Now a part of history<br />
the Saddle T Bar was one of the sickest jokes the<br />
NZ ski industry decided to play on unsuspecting<br />
skiers and boarders. Traversing an exposed,<br />
rough, ice strewn off camber ridge the T bar<br />
naturally sorted the gifted from the ordinary. If you<br />
could ride the Saddle T Bar then you could ride<br />
the epic natural half pipes and powder of Treble<br />
Cones saddle. Replaced by a chair running on a<br />
much more sensible route the terrain is still epic<br />
and still sorts the gifted from the ordinary.<br />
EUROPE<br />
Meribel, France – Known locally as “The Fridge”<br />
and “The Freezer”, “The Plan Des Mains” and<br />
“Cote Brun” are two of the highest lifts in the<br />
Three Valleys mega ski resort in France. They<br />
link Meribel with Val Thorens which is at 3500m.<br />
These north facing chairs catch all the wind,<br />
snow and blizzard conditions. As I found out<br />
when running a chalet in Val Thorens, they are<br />
the only way home after a long day of skiing the<br />
incredibly long runs or the Three Valleys and<br />
they are COLD! A hot Vin Chaud is vital once<br />
these lifts have been experienced on a freezing<br />
December afternoon.<br />
Aigle du midi tram in Chamonix<br />
Pizza Box Niseko<br />
Chamonix, France – The Valley Blanche is one of the worlds longest<br />
ski runs which starts at 3800m and travels over 17km’s over an active<br />
glacier. In order to access this run you need to take a few brave pills!<br />
First there is the tram which climbs 2317m from the town to the top<br />
of a needle peak. Then there is the arete ridge from the peak to the<br />
glacier, so you don crampons, get the rope out and abseil down the<br />
arete. Finally there is the 17km’s of glacier to ski, preferably without<br />
falling down a bottomless crevice! Best completed with a guide, for<br />
every avid skier this is a must do experience!<br />
JAPAN<br />
Furano, Hokkaido – The H1 link chair from Kitanomine to Furano.<br />
This chair goes flat, then down, then up and up and up! Linking the<br />
two resorts of Furano it shows you some of the most epic off piste<br />
terrain in Furano.<br />
Niseko, Hokkaido – The two infamous Pizza box chairs of Niseko,<br />
“The King lift” and the “Wonderland Chair”. Literally like sitting on a<br />
pizza box these single seat chairlifts have no safety bar, no friends<br />
and are right at the top of the mountain so they rock like a 70’s<br />
hipster. They do access some of the most epic powder bowls in the<br />
WORLD. So they have to be ridden!<br />
"IN ORDER TO ACCESS THIS RUN YOU NEED<br />
TO TAKE A FEW BRAVE PILLS! FIRST THERE<br />
IS THE TRAM WHICH CLIMBS 2317M FROM<br />
THE TOWN TO THE TOP OF A NEEDLE<br />
PEAK. THEN THERE IS THE ARETE RIDGE<br />
FROM THE PEAK TO THE GLACIER...FINALLY<br />
THERE IS THE 17KM’S OF GLACIER TO SKI,<br />
PREFERABLY WITHOUT FALLING DOWN A<br />
BOTTOMLESS CREVICE! "<br />
54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55
Experts at adventure travel since 2000<br />
"where clients become friends"<br />
Mammoth Mountain<br />
USA<br />
Jackson Hole, Wyoming – The Aerial<br />
Tram runs from the base of Jackson<br />
Hole to the summit of the Grand Tetons<br />
4,139 feet high in 12 minutes. While<br />
you’re on your way up a helpful lifty<br />
runs a safety briefing telling you all<br />
about how the ungroomed advanced<br />
offpiste black terrain you’re about to<br />
encounter, is absolutely not suitable for<br />
beginners or even intermediate skiers.<br />
Once you’re up there you can agree<br />
with them while poking your nose into<br />
the vertical entrance to Corbets Couloir.<br />
The 360 degree views of the Grand<br />
Tetons really are amazing, and the ski<br />
down even better.<br />
Mammoth Mountain, California –<br />
The famous Chair 23 runs straight up<br />
Scottys face to the summit ridge. You<br />
get a birds eye view of this double black<br />
face while sitting on a rocky fixed grip<br />
slippery plastic chair seat WITH NO<br />
SAFETY BAR! Its truly frightening but<br />
the run is worth it!<br />
Big Sky, Montana – The Lone Peak<br />
tram has just been replaced so it’s not<br />
quite as daunting as it was when you<br />
could only fit four people in it. This 4612<br />
foot long tram ride deposits you on the<br />
teeny, tiny tip of Lone Peak. DO NOT<br />
FALL OVER as you’re putting your<br />
skiis on, cause you won’t stop until<br />
you reach the bottom! The exposure of<br />
the mountain peak is something else,<br />
the easiest way down is a long, steep,<br />
black diamond run down Liberty bowl.<br />
If it’s too much, you can look at the<br />
view, take some photos and take the<br />
tram back down.<br />
56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
"YOU GET A BIRDS EYE VIEW OF THIS<br />
DOUBLE BLACK FACE WHILE SITTING ON A<br />
ROCKY FIXED GRIP SLIPPERY PLASTIC CHAIR<br />
SEAT WITH NO SAFETY BAR! ITS TRULY<br />
FRIGHTENING BUT THE RUN IS WORTH IT!"<br />
CANADA<br />
White water, British Columbia - Not<br />
so much frightening, as quaint, White<br />
water ski resort has four chair lifts and<br />
a handle tow for beginners. These are<br />
some of the oldest lifts I have seen still<br />
running! 40 years young and locally<br />
owned, they brought used chairlifts to<br />
keep costs down. Later in a world of<br />
modern express detachable chairlifts,<br />
they brough a couple of great value fixed<br />
grip lifts. White Water’s very first point of<br />
their mission statement is “Making the<br />
experience affordable” I applaud this<br />
resorts sentiment, and on top of this, the<br />
resort is AWESOME! Whitewater sits in a<br />
natural powder valley and gets some of<br />
the best powder I have ever skied in, the<br />
local town of Nelson is pretty wicked too.<br />
Big White, British Columbia – The<br />
Cliff chair at Big White is well named,<br />
climbing a double black powder bowl,<br />
the chair starts out mellow and then<br />
climbs almost vertically over a rocky bluff<br />
which precedes the 1km long Parachute<br />
Bowl . The Cliff chair gives you a hairraising<br />
view of the terrain you’re about<br />
to shred. One of the highest mountains<br />
in the Okanagan, Big White has some of<br />
the best powder bowls in the area.<br />
Portillo, Chile<br />
SOUTH AMERICA<br />
Portillo, Chile – Located in the Andes right<br />
on the border between Argentina and Chile<br />
this small steep ski resort has discovered that<br />
ski lifts tend to get wiped out by avalanches<br />
if you leave them in place in big storms. So<br />
the invented a removable 6 person T bar.<br />
Randomly this lift works incredibly well,<br />
but it’s a fine line between white knuckle<br />
terrifying and exhilarating! The Va-et vient<br />
(sling shot) lifts fire you up the mountain at an<br />
unprecedented pace, rewarding you with a<br />
long powder run down.<br />
There is one thing in common with all these frightening lifts - they access the most<br />
amazing powder and terrain! The moral of this story, take your brave pills, harden up and<br />
enjoy some of the best terrain the world has to offer you.<br />
For more information contact: www.madaboutravel.co.nz<br />
"We live what we sell"<br />
0800 623 872<br />
info@madabouttravel.co.nz<br />
madabouttravel.co.nz
trekking himilayas<br />
Led by Robert Bruce<br />
In late December to January<br />
2024 a large group of New<br />
Zealanders, hosted by Got To<br />
Get Out founder Robert Bruce,<br />
successfully trekked to Mt<br />
Everest Base Camp in Nepal.<br />
Most of the group achieved<br />
their goal of trekking to a height<br />
of 5364m above sea-level in<br />
the middle of Nepal winter. At<br />
the higher altitudes the group<br />
endured temperatures down<br />
to -20 overnight and -15 in the<br />
day, utterly freezing conditions.<br />
This is the fourth time Robert<br />
has taken a large group of<br />
Kiwis to the foot of the tallest<br />
mountain on earth, his fifth time<br />
guiding in Nepal having also<br />
guided the Annapurna Circuit.<br />
This trip marks the 10th year<br />
anniversary of his founding Got<br />
To Get Out. He always returns<br />
in Nepal winter, New Zealand's<br />
Christmas holidays.<br />
Robert came up with the idea<br />
of getting people 'outdoors<br />
and active' after his first trip to<br />
the Himalayas in 2014 after<br />
leaving the corporate world to<br />
instead start a social enterprise<br />
that gets people active. As well<br />
as hosting nearly 1000 ‘micro<br />
advenures’ in New Zealand<br />
since, he has been particularly<br />
passionate about enabling and<br />
leading what he calls ‘the Kiwi<br />
‘rite of passage’ to Basecamp.<br />
This particular trek, compared<br />
to any other in New Zealand<br />
or Nepal, feels very significant<br />
thanks to the strong kiwi<br />
connection of Sir Edmund<br />
Hillary. “‘Sir Eds’ legacy<br />
feels ever-present in the<br />
Khumbu region, with various<br />
monuments, statues, bridges<br />
and buildings named in both<br />
his and Tenzing Norgay's<br />
honour. For trekkers landing<br />
in Lukla from Kathmandu (the<br />
very beginning of the trek to Mt<br />
Everest), the first thing you see<br />
is the name on the terminal<br />
‘Tenzing Hillary Airport’. Some<br />
call this the most dangerous<br />
airfield in the world, but ‘most<br />
thrilling’ is a better description,<br />
as you come in to land on a<br />
tiny, steeply angled airfield<br />
seemingly carved out of the<br />
side of the hill. The story goes<br />
that Sir Ed rounded up the<br />
Sherpa people and literally<br />
stomped the earth flat with<br />
their feet, walking up and down<br />
the hill to form the first version<br />
of the runway.<br />
"SOME CALL<br />
THIS THE MOST<br />
DANGEROUS<br />
AIRFIELD IN THE<br />
WORLD, BUT<br />
‘MOST THRILLING’<br />
IS A BETTER<br />
DESCRIPTION"<br />
The trek to basecamp is<br />
around 120 km return. Trekkers<br />
only walk around 10km per day<br />
though some day are longer,<br />
with a gradual ascent that<br />
some days are steeper than<br />
others. Walkers ascend around<br />
500m of vertical elevation a<br />
day. The usual walking time is<br />
around 8 hours a day, split in<br />
two before and after lunch. The<br />
relative short days of walking<br />
(compared to say, hiking Te<br />
Araroa in New Zealand) is<br />
important to not ascend too<br />
quickly and risk getting altitude<br />
sickness, and also to walk<br />
within daylight hours as it gets<br />
very cold when the sun begins<br />
to fall behind the towering<br />
7000 and 8000+ meter peaks<br />
flanking the valley you are<br />
ascending.<br />
The terrain of the trek is<br />
somewhat similar to Tongariro<br />
Crossing in New Zealand; the<br />
trail is basically dry, rock-hard<br />
compacted earth, interspersed<br />
with rock steps. Not technical<br />
at all, but a long slow trudge.<br />
The route was originally<br />
developed to facilitate trade<br />
between Tibet/ China and<br />
Nepal, so the trail has been<br />
designed with yaks in mind,<br />
and is still used for them. The<br />
trail is the perfect width for<br />
a large herd of yaks to pass<br />
through in single file, and never<br />
too steep for them to continue<br />
their long heavily laden trudge<br />
uphill. Walkers need to give<br />
way to yaks, and get out of<br />
their way!<br />
There are no roads in the<br />
Himalayas at all, so the only<br />
way produce and supplies can<br />
get delivered cost effectively<br />
is on the backs of animals,<br />
or people. Helicopters can<br />
bring supplies in, but it is very<br />
expensive. So daily, herds of<br />
mules, cows and at higher<br />
levels yaks trundle past daily,<br />
kicking up huge clouds of dust.<br />
It’s important to keep your<br />
mouth covered to avoid getting<br />
it into your lungs.<br />
Each day on the trail, hikers<br />
stay in tea houses, and<br />
these become your ‘home<br />
away from home’. The tea<br />
houses are another relic of<br />
the trade route from Tibet to<br />
Nepal, conveniently perfectly<br />
positioned to provide rest for<br />
weary Sherpa who would stop<br />
to rest and have tea, during<br />
their immensely long trade<br />
journeys. Today, there are<br />
multiple tea houses in each<br />
little village you come to, that<br />
serve a wide array of food and<br />
drink and accommodation.<br />
Western food options like<br />
pasta pizza and chips are<br />
available, but it’s nice to have<br />
local cuisine. Almost every<br />
meal is vegetarian, it’s not<br />
recommended to have meat in<br />
the Himalaya, without knowing<br />
how it was transported or<br />
stored. Power is unreliable<br />
and so refrigeration is not<br />
confirmed.<br />
On arrival at Basecamp the<br />
Got To Get Out group cheered<br />
each other, and celebrated<br />
their huge effort. Some of the<br />
group waved New Zealand<br />
flags, ate their favourite foods<br />
brought all the way from home,<br />
and of course took many<br />
photos standing on the famous<br />
rocks and boulders at base<br />
camp with the Khumbu icefall,<br />
and Everest in the background.<br />
Some photos show the<br />
kiwis standing in front of<br />
the infamous Khumbu<br />
icefall, where most Everest<br />
climbing expeditions begin.<br />
Mountaineers have to cross<br />
ladders placed precariously<br />
over huge constantly moving<br />
ice slabs, before attempting<br />
Mt Everest. It’s considered<br />
some of the most dangerous<br />
mountaineering in the world,<br />
and features heavily in films<br />
and documentaries.<br />
At this time of year the barren<br />
frozen surface resembles<br />
more of a moonscape, again,<br />
somewhat similar to the<br />
Tongariro Crossing. Not a<br />
single tent can be seen, only<br />
rocks and ice. And it’s very<br />
clean! People always ask ‘are<br />
there bodies and rubbish up<br />
there?’. The answer is that<br />
basecamp and the walking<br />
route through the Khumbu is<br />
very clean. Concerted efforts<br />
over the years have ensured<br />
that the tourism experience<br />
is very good and rubbish is<br />
removed.<br />
Higher up on Everest, yes<br />
apparently there are bodies<br />
that simply can’t be removed<br />
but mostly covered by snow<br />
and ice other than perhaps a<br />
boot sticking out visible. These<br />
days Sherpa are incentivised<br />
to bring rubbish down off the<br />
mountain, and it can create<br />
good income for them to<br />
remove unused bottles and<br />
other waste, so it has been<br />
cleaned up considerably.<br />
Only the very tip of the summit<br />
of Mt Everest can be seen from<br />
Base Camp. So the best views<br />
of Mt Everest is very much on<br />
the days approaching it, or<br />
from Kala Patthar 5644m, the<br />
viewing point some choose<br />
to do before departing Gorek<br />
Shep (the highest camp) on<br />
the last day before turning<br />
around.<br />
The weather this year was the<br />
best group leader Bruce had<br />
ever seen since first visiting ten<br />
years ago. The sun was high<br />
each day, skies blue with white<br />
7000 and 8000m peaks all<br />
around. Bruce said he hoped<br />
the mild conditions were not<br />
a sign of a region warming<br />
up, as prior trips had reached<br />
lows of -30 at Basecamp. -16<br />
at Basecamp was warm in<br />
comparison and with no snow<br />
on the ground, it was quite a<br />
contrast from prior years,<br />
The total size of the expedition<br />
each day was actually over<br />
25 individuals, with expert<br />
Nepalese trekking guides and<br />
porters included in the count.<br />
The kiwis he brings each year<br />
have an excellent relationship<br />
with the Nepalese guides,<br />
some of whom he has trekked<br />
with three or four times. The<br />
local guides and porters very<br />
much appreciate the spending<br />
(money) and work they get in<br />
their down-season, with some<br />
walking many days from their<br />
lowland farms, especially to<br />
join the annual Got To Get Out<br />
treks.<br />
This year, as with prior trips,<br />
some of Roberts' group<br />
encountered challenges linked<br />
to altitude sickness. Just<br />
walking daily in extreme cold<br />
conditions and being in a dry<br />
dusty environment can lead to<br />
various chest and lung issues.<br />
This year one guest got sent<br />
home via helicopter quite early<br />
in the expedition from Namche<br />
Bazar (the ‘Sherpa capital’) at<br />
3440m above sea level. This<br />
Kiwi hiker contracted a chest<br />
infection after just three days<br />
walking, so after consultation<br />
with the doctor on the trip, and<br />
along with Nepalese guiding<br />
staff, the decision was made to<br />
send the patient to a purpose<br />
built trekkers hospital in<br />
Kathmandu via helicopter.<br />
Another guest did make it to<br />
Everest Base Camp before<br />
being diagnosed with HAPE<br />
(high altitude pulmonary<br />
edema) so also needed to<br />
descend via helicopter.<br />
Both made a full recovery, but<br />
it further illustrates the risk and<br />
challenges of embarking on<br />
this adventure. It is not for the<br />
faint hearted. The main issues<br />
trekkers face are chest (lung)<br />
infections, hard to breath,<br />
intense headaches, sore<br />
throat, loss of appetite, and<br />
fatigue. If walkers can endure<br />
all of that, they make it to their<br />
goal of Mt Everest Base Camp.<br />
“The choice of guiding in the<br />
winter season in Nepal is<br />
strategic”, says Bruce.<br />
In peak climbing and trekking<br />
seasons (around May for<br />
climbing, November for<br />
trekking) the tea houses,<br />
accommodation and flights<br />
in-and-out of the Himalaya<br />
are very full. In winter when<br />
he travels, less people are<br />
willing to brave the colder<br />
temperatures and so the<br />
trails are nearly empty. These<br />
conditions are perfect for<br />
Got To Get Out to bring large<br />
groups of Kiwis, who tend<br />
to be available during their<br />
Christmas holidays, eager to<br />
attempt the 'rite of passage' to<br />
follow the footsteps of sir Ed,<br />
and tick Basecamp off their<br />
bucket list.<br />
This year, Robert and Got To<br />
Get Out plans to host more<br />
international expeditions to get<br />
Kiwis outdoors on overseas<br />
adventures. He has in mind<br />
the Machu Picchu Inca trail in<br />
Peru, Mt Kilimanjaro summit<br />
in Africa, and of course a<br />
return to what he now calls<br />
the unofficial home of his<br />
social enterprise - Mt Everest<br />
Base Camp for New Years<br />
2025. Details will follow via his<br />
social media when tickets are<br />
available.<br />
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//59
what values matter most to them.<br />
I think this correlates with the time<br />
they spent either alone or with others<br />
walking in the bush, floating down<br />
rivers or paddling on the ocean.”<br />
He hopes to inspire and empower<br />
people to explore the natural<br />
environment as a way of improving<br />
mental health.<br />
Ocean conservation is also an<br />
important issue for the boys. Like<br />
many Kiwis, the four grew up on<br />
the coast, nourished by the sand,<br />
salt and the waves. The ocean was<br />
instrumental in their childhoods and<br />
continues to play a guiding role<br />
now. For this reason they believe<br />
it is essential we preserve and<br />
protect our ocean for the future.<br />
Funds raised will also go to Live<br />
Ocean which supports exceptional<br />
marine scientists, innovators and<br />
communicators to champion and<br />
improve the health of our coastline<br />
and marine ecosystems.<br />
The team understands the<br />
magnitude of the challenge ahead of<br />
them. Attempting to kayak +2000km<br />
along the coastline, with variable<br />
winds, weather, temperatures and<br />
ocean conditions is nothing to<br />
take lightly. “This will undoubtedly<br />
be one of the most physically and<br />
mentally demanding trips we have<br />
attempted”, Drew reflects, “but that<br />
is what excites me, the challenge is<br />
why we are attracted to it.” Training<br />
and preparation are key for the boys<br />
to make sure their bodies and skills<br />
are in top form before they set off.<br />
Spread across the country, the team<br />
have been preparing individually<br />
for the trip. Running guided tours,<br />
Cared, Kurt and Connor are out<br />
paddling most days for work,<br />
however all jump at an opportunity<br />
to paddle further afield in their own<br />
time. Drews’ preparation on the<br />
other hand, has him on the water<br />
most mornings and afternoons,<br />
spending as much time in the kayak<br />
in between work.<br />
A journey of this nature is made<br />
easier with support. A few generous<br />
sponsors have already got on<br />
board to help the boys out with the<br />
expeditions; NMIT has lent them<br />
the use of four kayaks and Chris<br />
from Kayak HQ in Nelson, a huge<br />
advocate for mental health, has<br />
generously assisted the four boys<br />
with some CKER paddles, transport<br />
of the kayaks, and other sea<br />
kayaking gear.<br />
The boys welcome every little bit of<br />
new support, whether that means<br />
following them on Instagram or<br />
Facebook, spreading the word,<br />
contributing to their Givealittle or<br />
supporting through some kind of<br />
sponsorship. You can contact them<br />
through their email or their socials.<br />
paddl4purpose@gmail.com<br />
@paddleforpurpose<br />
paddle for purpose<br />
In March, four kiwi boys embarked on a<br />
three-month kayak journey from Cape<br />
Reinga to Wellington down the east coast<br />
of the North Island (about 2200 km).<br />
The team is made up of three Stewart<br />
brothers, Kurt, Connor and Drew, all<br />
originally from Whangarei, and a close<br />
friend, Cared Blackham, from Eastbourne,<br />
Wellington.<br />
Drew, the youngest of the Stewart<br />
brothers, had the idea to navigate the east<br />
coast of the North Island by kayak after<br />
completing the South Island portion of the<br />
Te Araroa Trail back in 2019. He felt that<br />
walking the North Island portion of the<br />
Trail would miss the North Island's true<br />
beauty: its coastline.<br />
Drew’s wild idea was a seed planted with<br />
his two older brothers, Kurt and Connor,<br />
and now four years on, that seed is<br />
starting to bear fruit. In the intervening<br />
years, Drew studied Environmental<br />
Planning at the University of Waikato,<br />
and began working as an environmental<br />
consultant. Meanwhile, Kurt and Connor<br />
completed an adventure tourism diploma<br />
at Nelson Marlborough Institute of<br />
Technology (NMIT), which is where they<br />
met Cared, who was stoked on the idea of<br />
an epic kayak trip down the North Island<br />
coastline. Kurt, Connor and Cared are<br />
all now kayak guides working across the<br />
country in Wanaka, Whangarei and Abel<br />
Tasman respectively.<br />
None of the four have undertaken a sea<br />
kayak expedition of this magnitude, and<br />
with all living in separate locations in<br />
Aotearoa, planning and preparation has<br />
been no easy task. But each of them are<br />
committed to the journey.<br />
A key driver for the boys is using the trip to<br />
make a positive contribution to two things<br />
that mattered to them most; the health of<br />
people and the environment. “These two<br />
go hand in hand for us. Exercise in and<br />
on the water, bush and mountains has a<br />
massive positive effect on my physical<br />
and mental wellbeing, as well as for many<br />
others. I think that a lot of people have<br />
forgotten or are yet to discover this”, Kurt<br />
says. Through their Givealittle campaign,<br />
they are hoping to make a positive<br />
impact on mental health awareness and<br />
marine conservation. The Mental Health<br />
Foundation of NZ and Live Ocean are<br />
both charities supporting causes close to<br />
their hearts.<br />
Having experienced their own mental<br />
struggles and watching friends and family<br />
also navigate the choppy waters of mental<br />
health, they would like to help make this<br />
process easier and more accessible by<br />
supporting the Mental Health Foundation<br />
of NZ. They hope to inspire others to start<br />
their own journey towards an improved<br />
wellbeing and to help remove some of<br />
the stigma around getting support for<br />
mental health. They believe the simplicity<br />
of nature can take us away from all the<br />
stresses that follow us day-to-day, and<br />
that time and exercise in the natural world<br />
can help heal the mind, body and soul.<br />
The four boys have all found that getting<br />
out into the natural environment has<br />
helped them grow, explore their identity<br />
and find solace. Cared realised the<br />
importance of being active out in nature<br />
while studying at NMIT/Te Pukenga. The<br />
personal development he saw in himself<br />
and his peers was eye opening. “I saw<br />
friends develop a sound understanding of<br />
their own personal identity and discover<br />
WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?<br />
TREK. CLIMB SKI.REPEAT<br />
60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
WANAKA, NZ | WWW.ASPIRINGGUIDES.COM | +64 27 301 0466 | INFO@ASPIRINGGUIDES.COM
"DAVID<br />
ATTENBOROUGH<br />
WOULD DEFINITELY<br />
BECOME AROUSED WITH<br />
THIS ONE. YOU SCALE<br />
A COUPLE OF ALMOST<br />
SHEER CLIMBS AND<br />
CLAMBER UP BESIDE A<br />
WATERFALL."<br />
the goat<br />
New Zealand’s toughest 20k trail run<br />
Words by Nick Laurie<br />
January 20th and it was time to test out just<br />
how hard the hardest 20k trail run actually<br />
is. I had entered when I was training for the<br />
Kepler Challenge(60k) and 20k seemed like<br />
a small training run to me. My plan was to<br />
dominate the Kepler and then do a couple of<br />
trots after Christmas and be ready for a great<br />
showing at this ‘fun-run.’ Oh how wrong could<br />
I be.<br />
Firstly, I did not dominate the Kepler. I had my<br />
arse handed to me on an unrelenting course<br />
and underestimated the recovery that was<br />
needed after such an effort. I would go for<br />
a run and at any sign of a hill it was almost<br />
like a PTSD reaction and my mind would<br />
give it the big nah. Straight after Christmas<br />
I was able to put my big boys’ pants on and<br />
had a couple of good 15-25k sessions at<br />
Wenderholm and on the bush reserves of<br />
Auckland’s North Shore. There are some<br />
really cool trails in Albany, Glenfield and<br />
Birkenhead. Thanks Auckland Council.<br />
All prepped and primed I was set for an<br />
impressive showing down at Mt Ruapehu.<br />
The GOAT is an event that has been going<br />
20 years and, in our race, celebrated it’s<br />
10,000th finisher. It follows the Western<br />
round alpine track from Whakapapa to Turoa.<br />
It is approximately 20k long, has 1168m<br />
ascent and covers terrain that includes lava<br />
flows, scoria fields, mountain beech forest,<br />
tussock grasslands and alpine herb fields.<br />
David Attenborough would definitely become<br />
aroused with this one. You scale a couple of<br />
almost sheer climbs and clamber up beside a<br />
waterfall.<br />
As with every one of these missions, gear<br />
selection is very important. Being an alpine<br />
event there was a list of compulsory gear<br />
that every competitor had to take with<br />
them. I must say that this was very strictly<br />
policed with one of the most rigorous gear<br />
inspections that I have ever experienced.<br />
This team should be sent to Mt Eden jail - no<br />
contraband would get past them. I arrived<br />
pretty late to registration, and I think that<br />
they had already had a laugh hours earlier,<br />
so when I offered to show them my whistle I<br />
just got the stupid boy look. They were big on<br />
having a seam sealed jacket a proper long<br />
sleeve thermal top and an emergency bag,<br />
not blanket. I picked up my lucky number 309<br />
and went back to our Air BNB.<br />
"I DID NOT DOMINATE<br />
THE KEPLER. I HAD MY<br />
ARSE HANDED TO ME<br />
ON AN UNRELENTING<br />
COURSE AND<br />
UNDERESTIMATED THE<br />
RECOVERY THAT WAS<br />
NEEDED AFTER SUCH<br />
AN EFFORT."<br />
We discussed what gear each of us would<br />
be using tomorrow and each had a fuelling<br />
strategy. The first call was shoes. Some of the<br />
lads had done it before and had visions of a dry<br />
track and selected their footwear accordingly.<br />
I chose to run in the Asics Trabuco Max shoes<br />
that I had got for Christmas. I wanted to use<br />
these because they had extra cushioning and<br />
were nice and grippy, with rain expected. They<br />
were great drainers as well which is important<br />
when going through water. You don’t want<br />
waterproof shoes otherwise you end up carrying<br />
2 buckets of water strapped to your feet. The<br />
next important thing to spend some money on<br />
is socks. I got myself a pair of thorlo trail socks.<br />
Great cushioning, non blistering and they had a<br />
firm band above the ankle which kept heaps of<br />
trail debris out.<br />
We all had our individual fuelling strategies.<br />
I had trained with the plan of a gel and an<br />
electrolyte capsule every hour. I knew that I<br />
would need 1.25l and decided to take 1.5l just in<br />
case. There were no aid stations on the course<br />
as it is very remote. The golden rule here is<br />
don’t try something new on race day. One guy<br />
tried out a new brand of gel and paid the price<br />
with a crampathon. I personally liked the GU<br />
band as they were easy to swallow and easy on<br />
the gut.<br />
We got one of the wives, thanks Sandi, to rise<br />
early and drive us to the start. She hung around<br />
and took some epic video of us all looking at our<br />
best as we ran the first 1.75k down the sealed<br />
road to the track. Everyone says to save your<br />
quads on this sealed downhill stretch, but I say,<br />
don’t listen. It is the best surface that you will<br />
have all race so unleash the inner Kenyan. It’s<br />
also the only time that you will want to check<br />
your Garmin. The rest of the kilometre splits are<br />
deeply disappointing.<br />
We were penned off into seeded groups of 50<br />
and set off at 3-minute time intervals. It was<br />
quite cool to watch the top guys take off. I<br />
remember seeing this couple in matching his<br />
and her outfits with the top seeds and I thought<br />
oh how nice they have let a couple of tourists<br />
have a nice experience. The, “her” finished top<br />
woman and the “him” finished 3rd overall. They<br />
were world orienteering champs! The seeding<br />
worked well because we were soon onto single<br />
track, and you didn’t want to be barging or<br />
holding people up.<br />
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//63
RIDE, RELAX<br />
& REPEAT<br />
Explore scenic Rotorua<br />
with our Mountain<br />
Biker package<br />
starting from $279!<br />
"I REMEMBER STANDING<br />
UP ON ONE SECTION<br />
OF THE WATERFALL<br />
AND FEELING A BIT<br />
LIGHTHEADED. I WAS<br />
SURPRISED NOT TO SEE<br />
FELLOW COMPETITORS<br />
HURTLING TO THEIR<br />
DEATHS."<br />
I remember standing up on one section of the<br />
waterfall and feeling a bit lightheaded. I was<br />
surprised not to see fellow competitors hurtling<br />
to their deaths. Apparently, the top competitors<br />
come and scope these rockfaces out during<br />
training and work out the most efficient way up<br />
them. My tactic was to follow the guy in front of<br />
me. I knew that the last 1.6k was going to be up<br />
a sealed road and I was relishing getting to that<br />
and running like the chariots of fire movie up to<br />
the red-carpet finish.<br />
Book Now: 0800 538 466<br />
237 Fenton Street, Rotorua<br />
"I HAD A<br />
NEWFOUND<br />
ADMIRATION<br />
FOR SIR EDMOND<br />
HILARY AS HE HAD<br />
TO RELENTLESSLY<br />
CLIMB LIKE THIS<br />
FOR WEEKS AT A<br />
TIME WHILE I WAS<br />
STUFFED DOING<br />
IT FOR 3 HOURS."<br />
After the beautiful downhill sealed section, it was on to the<br />
shitty trails. It was raining and the ruts turned into muddy<br />
creek beds. It was hard to get any footing and for most of it<br />
running was out of the question. It was an obstacle course.<br />
I can remember the person in front of me trying to avoid<br />
the first few puddles and rivers but after about 30 minutes<br />
everyone was just covered in mud. I came up to a guy<br />
towards the end of the race who looked nice and clean and<br />
asked how he had managed to dodge the mud. He said at<br />
the last river he had just had a lie down and a wash!<br />
I felt fresh throughout the first half of the race and went a<br />
hard as I could. There were 3 guys that I used to row with,<br />
and my goal was to catch them. I caught one of them by<br />
halfway but when the terrain opened up a bit I literally hit<br />
the wall. I opened the after burners and started to run a<br />
bit harder but with the fatigue from the obstacle course I<br />
wasn’t lifting my feet as best I could. I kicked a rock and<br />
went over face first. This was not only embarrassing but<br />
very depleting. The shot of adrenaline was a waste of<br />
energy and was sapping.<br />
I fell on 5 occasions and got pretty fucked off! This is<br />
where I could do better if I ever come back. I need to work<br />
on my agility. I remember seeing the 10k marker and<br />
thinking that they had got that wrong. Surely, we were at<br />
20!<br />
C<br />
M<br />
Y<br />
Let us take you on<br />
a great adventure...<br />
The last section of the race is on a steep sealed<br />
road and is affectionately known as Mama’s<br />
Mile. So named because at this stage you just<br />
want your mum. I had my goal to run this section<br />
but after about 20m I worked out that that was<br />
the dumbest thing that I had ever thought of. If<br />
I had have run a bit more of this section instead<br />
of power walking, I would have placed top ten<br />
in the very old person’s section. Maybe next<br />
time. It was steep and I had run out of why. I<br />
finished 4h and 50 secs- didn’t get my 4h goal<br />
either. Maybe next time. The winner came in at<br />
1h55. His Dad has won the race 8 times and<br />
finished second at 1h58 to the prodigy. I can’t<br />
comprehend how these guys do this so quickly.<br />
A member of our group, Watti, won the real race<br />
(over 60s) in 3h11 and I had the fastest 1st k in<br />
the group 4m15secs.<br />
Sarah asked me would I come back? It’s a race<br />
that requires agility which is not my skillset, but<br />
it is a test of grit. I do these things to impress<br />
myself and if I can get going a bit faster and<br />
not fall so much perhaps, I could crack the 4h<br />
barrier.<br />
See you next year GOAT.<br />
In the second half of the race, we had to scale a very<br />
steep hill section on hands and knees and then at<br />
17k there was a rock waterfall that we had to climb. I<br />
commented to a fellow competitor that I had a newfound<br />
admiration for Sir Edmond Hilary as he had to relentlessly<br />
climb like this for weeks at a time while I was stuffed doing<br />
it for 3 hours.<br />
CM<br />
MY<br />
CY<br />
CMY<br />
K<br />
www.alpinerecreation.com
Fishing<br />
pivotal moments<br />
that change everything<br />
Words and images by Matt Butler<br />
In my teens I began to explore<br />
a bit further from home<br />
From a young age, I have always had<br />
an innate draw to the outdoors, any<br />
chance I could get I would prefer it was<br />
spent outside. But everything changed<br />
when at 12 years old, I was introduced<br />
to fly fishing after my mother sent me<br />
to a fishing club on my own one night.<br />
That night, something just clicked. It felt<br />
like this is what I was supposed to be<br />
doing and I was going to pursue it at<br />
any cost.<br />
I got my first rod for my 13th birthday<br />
and with no tuition or guidance it took<br />
me 3 years to catch my first fish. I did<br />
everything I could to get better, I read<br />
books, bought gear and joined the<br />
fishing club. But being the youngest in<br />
the room by at least 4 decades, it was a<br />
tough crowd.<br />
It’s ironic that any seasoned fly<br />
fisherman will say that a day on the<br />
water is not about catching fish, it’s<br />
about the experience and opportunity.<br />
Because at a young age this is how I<br />
felt, I was just happy to be out there.<br />
Over the coming years, I used to get<br />
out to the river after school and go on<br />
the odd weekend trip to some far away<br />
destination. That was until I moved<br />
up to the big smoke to launch my first<br />
business. These years were spent<br />
toiling away with little thought to much<br />
else, although the dream was to one<br />
day be free to fish every day.<br />
This moment came sooner than I<br />
thought, when I decided to liberate<br />
myself from the city and move south<br />
to Wanaka, New Zealand to pursue<br />
my burning desire to fish. My lack of<br />
water time in the previous few years<br />
showed, as I struggled to get my first<br />
south island fish. But it was the ability to<br />
see the trout in the water that changed<br />
everything.<br />
Observation was now my number<br />
one priority. Rather than jumping in<br />
to catch a fish, I would often sit and<br />
just watch, seeing how it fed and<br />
reacted to external influences. I would<br />
then calculate my approach and<br />
methodically go about catching it. At<br />
times I would even set up a camera<br />
to film myself in the process for later<br />
review.<br />
All of this waiting, watching and<br />
analysis paid off as I quickly mastered<br />
my game and it wasn’t long until I<br />
charged in with confidence. Eventually<br />
getting to the stage where I felt I had<br />
the skills to teach others.<br />
I had done so much fishing on my own<br />
over the preceding year and I felt some<br />
company would be much appreciated.<br />
So, I decided to try becoming a guide. I<br />
was a bit hesitant and unsure at first, but<br />
I backed myself to figure it out on the go.<br />
My first ever day guiding was spent<br />
in a helicopter flying all over South<br />
Westland with a couple of American<br />
billionaires. I had never been in a<br />
helicopter before so it was mind blowing<br />
and I was more than glad to have a<br />
senior guide accompanying me and<br />
showing me the ropes.<br />
Cicada snack!<br />
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//67
Moments like this are what inspire my work at KEA Outdoors<br />
This trip turned out to be life changing. At this<br />
point, guiding was just a temporary dabble for<br />
me. But it was what one of the billionaire clients<br />
said to me that changed the course of my life for<br />
the next 5 years.<br />
Sitting down on a rock to take a rest, I asked<br />
the 80+ year old mogul, “if you could go back in<br />
time, what would you change”. Without hesitation<br />
he replied, “I would have enjoyed my youth and<br />
not tried to get rich quick, you have your whole<br />
life to make money”. As someone with ambition<br />
in business, this struck deep to the core of<br />
everything the world had told me. ‘Work hard,<br />
sacrifice and enjoy life later’ was the motto of most<br />
entrepreneurs. But it was on that day that I made a<br />
choice, I was going to do what I loved for the next<br />
5 years until I was 30, then get back into business.<br />
The following 5 years were some of the most<br />
exciting of my life as I spent up to 200 days<br />
guiding on the water during the NZ summer and<br />
then spent all my winter exploring and fishing<br />
across the northern hemisphere. From tarpon in<br />
Florida, to Salmon in Norway, Trout in Ireland and<br />
Roosterfish in Mexico, I had the time of my life.<br />
With the deadline of my 30th birthday<br />
approaching, I knew it was time to make a<br />
change. However I was having such a wild time<br />
it was hard to consider what was next. Then<br />
overnight, that all ended…<br />
We all have our own story of what happened to our<br />
lives during the pandemic and we all experienced<br />
it in different ways. For me, it was the stop gap my<br />
life needed to move forward. Overnight, our borders<br />
closed to the world and I lost 99% of my work<br />
indefinitely. My northern trip was canceled and I had<br />
time on my hands, too much time.<br />
But, rather than squander it I decided to take this<br />
opportunity to make another drastic change and<br />
start a business I could build into the future. This<br />
was the birth of KEA Outdoors, an outdoor gear<br />
brand that creates gear inspired by my days as a<br />
guide but for the everyday adventurer.<br />
The purpose of the gear ties directly back to my<br />
frustrations when spending hundreds of days a<br />
year outdoors. Initially this was in the first aid/<br />
survival category but has now grown into a wider<br />
product range and a brand with global reach.<br />
Now I find myself at a turning point once again.<br />
This new endeavor has sparked a new passion<br />
for me in creating great gear for others. It has<br />
been a challenging but rewarding journey as I<br />
built the business mostly on my own.<br />
But things are about to step up, as it’s now time<br />
to lean on the success to date and take things<br />
to the next level. We are building a brand that is<br />
taking on the stale outdoor gear industry, from<br />
little old Wanaka, New Zealand.<br />
That’s why we are offering the opportunity to<br />
those that believe in our story to become part of<br />
this journey and to own a piece of KEA Outdoors<br />
through our Equity Crowdfunding Campaign,<br />
launching in April 2024.<br />
This is a unique opportunity to join an exciting<br />
kiwi brand taking on the world and we would love<br />
to have you on board. You can learn more at<br />
www.keaoutdoors.com<br />
It’s been a wild journey over the past 20 years as<br />
fly fishing and the outdoors has shaped my life in<br />
a way I could neve have imagined. The biggest<br />
take away for me is that leaning into change can<br />
foster great things, you just need to take the dive!<br />
"SITTING DOWN ON<br />
A ROCK TO TAKE<br />
A REST, I ASKED<br />
THE 80+ YEAR OLD<br />
MOGUL, “IF YOU<br />
COULD GO BACK IN<br />
TIME, WHAT WOULD<br />
YOU CHANGE?”<br />
WITHOUT<br />
HESITATION HE<br />
REPLIED, “I WOULD<br />
HAVE ENJOYED MY<br />
YOUTH AND NOT<br />
TRIED TO GET RICH<br />
QUICK, YOU HAVE<br />
YOUR WHOLE LIFE<br />
TO MAKE MONEY”<br />
The all-new fourth generation Helios is the culmination of a seven-year<br />
quest to achieve precision beyond all previous limits of your imagination.<br />
IT’S WHERE ACCURACY COMES ALIVE.<br />
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
STAYING<br />
SAFE<br />
Xtorm Xtreme Solar Panel SolarBooster<br />
21W $399.00<br />
Overload protection and temperature<br />
control<br />
Auto Power Management to prevent<br />
overheating<br />
No internal battery<br />
Charges 2 devices at the same time<br />
21 Watts SunPower® Panel<br />
WWW.OUTDOORACTION.CO.NZ<br />
Xtorm Xtreme Rugged Power Bank 20.000mAh $199.00<br />
High Capacity 20.000mAh for multiple device<br />
charges<br />
Shock-resistant and water resistant<br />
Recharge your phone at least 4 times<br />
Emergency Flashlight<br />
4 USB outputs<br />
WWW.OUTDOORACTION.CO.NZ<br />
KEA SURVIVAL KIT GEAR PACKS $40.00- $50.00<br />
KEA Gear Packs are built for purpose and contain all the<br />
essential gear required to pack or refill your outdoor survival kit.<br />
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM<br />
Xtorm Xtreme Rugged Power Bank<br />
10.000 mAh $129.00<br />
10.000mAh internal battery<br />
Charges 3 devices at the same time<br />
Integrated flashlight<br />
Water resistant<br />
Recharge your phone at least 2 times<br />
3 USB outputs<br />
WWW.OUTDOORACTION.CO.NZ<br />
Xtorm 20W Fuel Series 4 Solar Power Bank 10.000<br />
mAh $109.95<br />
10.000mAh battery<br />
20W USB-C PD output<br />
2x USB output<br />
Built-in SunPower® Solar Panel<br />
Splash-proof (IPX4)<br />
Powerful integrated LED flashlight<br />
WWW.OUTDOORACTION.CO.NZ<br />
KEA kit $80.00 (GO) - $120.00 (XL)<br />
KEA KIT GO & XL are Outdoor Survival<br />
Systems to help pack essential safety gear.<br />
GO for on the move and the XL for vehicle/<br />
basecamp<br />
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM<br />
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//71
Kiwi Camping Medium Duffle Bag 60L $139.00<br />
Rugged, durable and designed to withstand<br />
the toughest adventures. The new Kiwi<br />
Camping duffle bag comes with detachable<br />
padded backstraps convert to the duffle into<br />
an expansive backpack.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
STAYINGAFE<br />
Rab Emergency Group Shelter 2 $139.95<br />
Made with lightweight and windproof polyester fabric,<br />
this emergency shelter is suitable for 1-2 people and<br />
includes waterproof seats and weather-resistant<br />
ventilation windows.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ<br />
Rab Trailhead Bivi $269.95<br />
Lightweight and waterproof, this bivi offers great<br />
protection from the elements with a MVTR rating of<br />
10,000 g/m2/24h. To use alone or under a tarp.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ<br />
Rab Siltarp 1 $229.95<br />
Strong, seam free, ultralight, and waterproof, the<br />
Siltarp offers a great shelter and a variety of setup<br />
options with a central lifter point.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ<br />
Rab ARK Emergency Bivi $19.95<br />
Made with lightweight PE, the ARK<br />
Emergency Bivi is wind and waterproof<br />
and reflects body heat to keep you safe<br />
in emergency situations.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ<br />
EXPED WINTERLITE -5 DOWN SLEEPING BAG<br />
$699.99<br />
Designed for cold-weather<br />
mountaineering and harsh<br />
environments. Water-repellent,<br />
breathable, windproof,<br />
lightweight shell with 540g of<br />
800-fill power goose down<br />
insulation. Differential cut,<br />
adjustable draft collar, 3D foot<br />
box. 1070g<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot<br />
Set $149.00<br />
For quick boiling when you<br />
need it! A super lightweight<br />
aluminium stove with quick<br />
boil technology, piezo ignition<br />
and accessories all packaged<br />
in a handy mesh carry bag.<br />
WWW.GASMATE.CO.NZ<br />
Kiwi Camping Matai Pro -5°C<br />
Sleeping Bag $109.00<br />
Matai Pro -5°C boasts<br />
a rectangular design<br />
providing ultimate warmth<br />
in cold temperatures,<br />
with generous width and<br />
height for added comfort.<br />
Features include a ripstop<br />
shell, inner pocket,<br />
adjustable hood, and YKK<br />
zips.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
kiwi camping Rover Lite 3CM Self-Inflating Hiking Mat $99.99<br />
Compact to pack and carry, the Rover Lite selfinflates<br />
in minutes. The tapered design can fit in a<br />
sleeping bag for maximum comfort on adventures.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
EXPED ULTRA 7R MUMMY SLEEPING MAT<br />
$369.99 (MEDIUM)<br />
Lightweight, supportive mat<br />
insulated with responsiblysourced<br />
down insulation for<br />
comfort on your adventures<br />
year-around. Compact packed<br />
size, a recycled 20D ripstop face<br />
fabric and 9cm-thick chambers<br />
with fatter chambers at the sides<br />
to reduce the chance of rolling<br />
off. Certified carbon neutral by<br />
myclimate. RV 7.1, 620g<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
Vango F10 Xenon UL2 Tent $699.99<br />
Stable two pole 4-season tunnel design that is easy to pitch, lightweight and<br />
packs up small. Features a large vent over the door for airflow and stopping rain<br />
getting into the inner with an open door, a front vestibule, high quality, lightweight<br />
Yunan poles, and a fast-pack bag. 1.9kg (packaged weight)<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
Kiwi Camping Weka 2 Hiker Tent $349.90<br />
Kiwi Camping's most popular hiker tent<br />
with double-sided entry, sturdy vestibules,<br />
and a user-friendly design. With a fly that<br />
handles rain and snow, the Weka 2 is<br />
perfect for hiking adventures.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -5°C<br />
Sleeping Bag $129.00<br />
Mamaku Pro -5°C offers<br />
ultimate warmth with<br />
lightweight, compact design<br />
and silvertherm lining for heat<br />
retention. Ideal for outdoor<br />
adventures with ripstop shell,<br />
inner pocket, and YKK zips.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
ZEROFIT Heatrub move $109.95 (AUD)<br />
Baselayer, Thermal<br />
The Move features a 45% polypropylene<br />
inner / hollow polyester shell that work in<br />
tandem to regulate body temperature, so<br />
as you work harder for longer, you don’t<br />
overheat in the conditions.<br />
WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU/PRODUCT/<br />
HEATRUB-MOVE/<br />
ZEROFIT Heatrub Ultimate $129.95(AUD)<br />
Baselayer, Thermal<br />
The award-winning Heatrub Ultimate<br />
is best-in-class baselayer that uses<br />
enhanced Heat Threads inside the<br />
garment that are activated through<br />
movement, gently brushing against the<br />
skin to generate positive warmth instantly.<br />
WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU/PRODUCT/<br />
HEATRUB-ULTIMATE-UNISEX/<br />
Outdoor Research SuperStrand LT Hoodie $399.99<br />
Ultralight and packable, featuring VerticalX<br />
SuperStrand insulation that is just as soft, light<br />
and lofty as 700-800 fill power down thereby<br />
giving you the best of both down and synthetic<br />
insulation. Ripstop nylon shell and lining for<br />
abrasion, water and wind resistance, a quilting<br />
pattern that reduces stitching and creates an<br />
uninterrupted flow of warmth and it stows in its<br />
own pocket. Available in men’s and women’s<br />
hoodie and jacket versions. 309g (men’s large)<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
ZEROFIT Heatrub Ultimate Leggings $129.95 (AUD)<br />
Baselayer, Thermal<br />
The Ultimate Leggings are made from<br />
the same material as the award-winning<br />
Heatrub Ultimate baselayer. The<br />
leggings are comparable to fleece lined<br />
overtrousers, but with the added benefit<br />
of ease of movement.<br />
WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU/PRODUCT/<br />
ULTIMATE-LEGGINGS/<br />
bear cottage Possum Merino Wool Ombre Throw $195.00<br />
A unique and luxurious blend of NZ possum<br />
fur and pure NZ merino lambswool. A beautiful<br />
luxurious Multi Tone Throw – so versatile, so<br />
light and ever so warm.<br />
35% Possum Fur, 55% Merino Lambswool,<br />
10% Mulberry Silk.<br />
Measurements approx: 1.24m x 1.71m<br />
WWW.BEARCOTTAGE.CO.NZ<br />
ZEROFIT Heatrub neckwarmer $49.95 (AUD)<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> Wear, Thermal<br />
The Neck Warmer uses the same ‘heat<br />
threads’ that feature in the award-winning<br />
Ultimate baselayer, which has been<br />
independently proven to be five times<br />
warmer than a standard product.<br />
WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU/PRODUCT/<br />
HEATRUB-NECKWARMER/<br />
74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
FIRM OOTING<br />
Merrell Moab 3 Womens Oyster/Chalk $259.00<br />
The Moab 3 (Vent) Hiking Shoe - With the<br />
inclusion of a premium Vibram outsole, the Moab<br />
3 is built for any terrain or elevation Australia has<br />
on offer. For over a decade, the Merrell Moab<br />
has been the choice of hikers when a choice<br />
needs to be made, making it the bestselling<br />
hiker in the world. Famous for its out-of-the-box<br />
comfort, durability and all purpose versatility, its<br />
predecessors have enabled 25million people<br />
to step further outdoors. Moabs 3rd version<br />
features a new more supportive insole, a softer<br />
more cushioned midsole, a grippier Vibram<br />
outsole, and partially recycled fabrics.<br />
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />
Merrell Moab Speed 2 Gore-Tex Mens Beluga / Womens Black $379.00<br />
The Moab Speed 2 represents Merrell's latest<br />
advancement in hiking. Combining the expertise and<br />
trail experiences of the renowned Moab hiking boot with<br />
cutting-edge innovations from avid hikers worldwide, this<br />
upgraded generation of hiking shoes sets a new standard<br />
in outdoor footwear.<br />
• Padded collar<br />
• Bellows tongue keeps out debris<br />
• Protective and abrasion resistant synthetic heel and<br />
toe cap<br />
• Dual heel and tongue loops for ease of entry as well<br />
as carabiner compatibility<br />
• Cleansport NXT treated for natural odor control<br />
• Lightweight FlexPlate technology provides<br />
torsional rigidity, lateral stability, and forefoot<br />
flexibility<br />
• FloatPro Foam midsole for lightweight comfort that<br />
lasts<br />
• Vibram TC5+ outsole provides exceptional traction<br />
for outdoor multi-sport activities, formulated<br />
exclusively for Merrell<br />
• Vibram traction lugs specifically designed to increase<br />
traction and shed debris with each step<br />
• Nylon ripstop and TPU upper<br />
• 100% recycled laces and webbing<br />
• 100% recycled breathable mesh lining<br />
• 100% recycled mesh footbed cover<br />
• 50% recycled removable EVA foam footbed<br />
• Vegan-Friendly<br />
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $429.90<br />
The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede leather and<br />
stretch fabric upper with a protective rubber rand for<br />
protection against rock, scree and debris. Featuring<br />
a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal<br />
waterproofing and breathability. The EVA midsole<br />
provides superior cushioning and excellent comfort<br />
for a technical shoe. Climbing Lacing right to the<br />
toe allows for a more precise fit, while the Vibram®<br />
Alpine Hiking outsole covers a wide spectrum of<br />
mountain terrain.<br />
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 470 g (pictured)<br />
(W) 370 g<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
SALEWA puez knit mid ptx $499.90<br />
The first hiking boot with Salewa Alpine Hemp.<br />
It has an abrasion-resistant knitted nylon and<br />
ripstop polyester mid-cut upper, with hemp and<br />
recycled polyester laces. Reinforced with an<br />
external toe cap and 360°protective rubber rand,<br />
it also features our PFC-free waterproof and<br />
breathable Powertex® membrane. At the heart of<br />
its construction built into the dual density Alpine<br />
Hemp and EVA midsole, is the new Salewa<br />
Edging Plate II, a special thermoplastic frame<br />
that runs the entire length of the boot, offering a<br />
combination of enhanced flex, and rebound for<br />
long-lasting hiking comfort. The Pomoca Alpine<br />
Trekker outsole offers excellent grip and traction<br />
in technical terrain.<br />
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 480 g<br />
(W) 385 g (pictured)<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
SALEWA pedrok pro mid ptx $459.90<br />
We designed the Pedroc Pro Mid PTX to offer<br />
a lightweight, versatile, and protective technical<br />
shoe with a mid-cut upper to cope in a wide range<br />
of scenarios from mixed mountain terrain to city<br />
streets. The SALEWA® 3F system and Ankle<br />
Protector system provide additional support and<br />
stability, while an abrasion-resistant double ripstop<br />
upper with TPU rand provide enhanced protection.<br />
Weather protection and breathability are provided<br />
by our sustainable Powertex® PFC-free waterproof<br />
membrane. The EVA midsole delivers optimal<br />
rebound, and the Pomoca Speed Hiker Pro outsole<br />
has a multi-directional lug pattern that works well on<br />
mud, grass and rock.<br />
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 390 g (pictured)<br />
(W) 290 g<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
Anatom Q4 Torridon B2 Mountain Boots $549.00<br />
For 4-season trekking, rock scrambling, glacier<br />
travel and winter walking adventures. Full rubber<br />
rand and the finest quality leather to withstand<br />
frequent use and provides excellent ankle support<br />
plus the right flex and torsional support for<br />
confidence over technical terrain. Tri-Aria 3-layer<br />
Membrane System, Vibram® Sorapis outsole.<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
SALEWA mountain TRAINER 2 MID GTX $649.90<br />
Introducing the next generation of our bestselling,<br />
robust and reliable alpine trekking boot. This hardwearing<br />
suede leather classic with a full 360°<br />
protective rubber rand is even lighter and more flexible.<br />
Equipped with a waterproof, breathable GORE-TEX®<br />
Performance Comfort membrane, a dual density<br />
expanded PU midsole that offers a good balance of<br />
cushioning and stiffness, and the self-cleaning Vibram®<br />
WTC 2 outsole is engineered for improved grip and<br />
traction in a wide range of conditions.<br />
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 600 g (W) 470 g (pictured)<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
SALEWA ORTLES light MID ptx $659.90<br />
This lightweight, comfortable mid-cut boot is both<br />
technical and agile. The Pomoca Alpine Light outsole<br />
ensures increased grip and traction in varied terrain.<br />
The Ankle Protector System wraps the foot, providing<br />
stability and protection from rock and scree. The<br />
Edging Plate technology blends targeted stiffness for<br />
edging stability and enhanced climbing performance<br />
with balanced flex and rebound for hiking comfort.<br />
The tough nylon fabric is reinforced with high-tenacity,<br />
abrasion-resistant, protective TPU stitching and film. It<br />
also features our PFC-free waterproof and breathable<br />
Powertex® membrane, and the elastic gaiter keeps out<br />
trail debris and grit.<br />
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 575 g (pictured) (W) 425 g<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//77
Review<br />
"Moab 3 features a new more<br />
supportive insole, a softer<br />
more cushioned midsole, and a<br />
best-in-class Vibram® outsole."<br />
THE WORLD’S<br />
WARMEST BASELAYER ®<br />
Designed in Japan, made for the outdoor world, Zerofit unisex baselayers are game-changing products for adventurers who<br />
refuse to let colder temperatures stop them from enjoying the hills, mountains, lakes or forests.<br />
Created by a passionate team of innovators and baselayer specialists, the Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate is the most technically<br />
advanced baselayer on the planet and completely different to any other product you’ve ever worn before.<br />
Merrell Moab 3 Hiking Boots<br />
Reveiw by Eric Skilling<br />
The sign read “Track now open. Caution Advised. Condition<br />
of track itself very rough.” This had to be the perfect place to<br />
test a new set of boots - lots of exposed tree roots, steep in<br />
places, and steady rain to make it a bit muddy and slippery.<br />
I packed several books and a few litres of water into an old<br />
canvas Macpac Genesis and headed off.<br />
It was not long before I had gained full confidence stepping<br />
down the steep, slightly muddy and root-bound track. This<br />
is hardly surprising - Merrell is hardly a start-up in the<br />
adventure footwear industry and these boots have been a<br />
top-selling model for over a decade.<br />
"With a notably stiffer<br />
sole, the boots promised<br />
durability and great<br />
support on rougher terrain<br />
such as scree slopes."<br />
With a notably stiffer sole, the boots promised durability and<br />
great support on rougher terrain such as scree slopes, while<br />
sacrificing a little control boulder hopping across streams. A<br />
mid-cut with an official weight of 1kg, they felt ideal for both<br />
single and multi-day tramping.<br />
"By the<br />
time I had<br />
emerged out<br />
of the bush<br />
and mud,<br />
and onto<br />
the beach,<br />
I had every<br />
reason to<br />
feel assured<br />
that I could<br />
rely on these<br />
Moab boots<br />
during future<br />
multi-day<br />
excursions."<br />
The all new Moab 3 features a new more<br />
supportive insole, a softer more cushioned<br />
midsole, and a best-in-class Vibram®<br />
outsole. Our newest generation is the most<br />
environmentally friendly Moab ever, utilizing<br />
recycled materials in construction. The Moab<br />
3 Mid WP features a waterproof membrane to<br />
keep your feet dry.<br />
Features<br />
• Waterproof membrane seals out water<br />
and lets moisture escape<br />
• Pig suede leather and breathable mesh<br />
upper<br />
• 100% recycled laces and webbing<br />
• Bellows tongue keeps out debris<br />
• Protective and abrasion resistant rubber<br />
heel and toe cap<br />
• 100% recycled breathable mesh lining<br />
• Kinetic Fit ADVANCED removable<br />
contoured footbed with reinforced heel<br />
cushioning for medium support<br />
• Molded nylon arch shank<br />
• Merrell Air Cushion in the heel absorbs<br />
shock and adds stability<br />
• Super Rebound Compound provides<br />
durable shock absorption to help reduce<br />
torque and allow for a smooth transition<br />
into the midfoot<br />
• Vibram® TC5+ outsole technology gives<br />
you confidence with every step from<br />
mountain trails to city streets. Made<br />
exclusively for Merrell, Vibram® TC5+<br />
delivers all-around grip, traction, and<br />
durability designed for every day wear.<br />
• Lug: 5mm<br />
• 2lbs-3.25oz, 1000g<br />
WHAT MAKES IT SO GOOD?<br />
1. It’s five times warmer than a<br />
standard baselayer<br />
That is quite a claim, but it’s a fact. Tested at the<br />
iconic Boken Institute in Osaka, the Heatrub<br />
Ultimate baselayer recorded a Heat Retention<br />
Rating of 0.78; a standard baselayer would have<br />
a rating of between 0.1 to 0.14. And for reference,<br />
a jumper would typically have a rating of 0.3. The<br />
Ultimate performs best in a temperature range<br />
of -10° Celsius thru 10° Celsius – so even in the<br />
coldest of conditions, it has got your back.<br />
2. Instant warmth the moment<br />
you put it on<br />
A standard baselayer traps body heat between<br />
your skin and the material, so it takes a little time<br />
before you feel the benefits. With Zerofit, five<br />
separate fabrics, along with a patented knitting<br />
process, create instant warmth as soon as you<br />
pull it on. We don’t engineer our products with<br />
compression for heat as a technology, unlike<br />
other brands. The unique fabric mix means you<br />
don’t need the tightness in order for it to work,<br />
making it super comfortable too.<br />
ZEROFIT HEATRUB MOVE -<br />
ADAPTABLE WARMTH ON THE GO<br />
The Ultimate baselayer is perfect for the<br />
coldest of conditions, but it is<br />
complemented by the Heatrub Move<br />
($109.95), which is twice as warm as a<br />
standard baselayer and ideal for milder<br />
temperatures of between -5° thru 12°<br />
Celsius. It features a 45% polypropylene<br />
construction on the inside of the<br />
baselayer and a hollow polyester shell<br />
that combine for ‘Adaptable Warmth’,<br />
keeping you cosy when you’re at a<br />
standstill yet regulating temperature and<br />
ensuring you don’t overheat as you move.<br />
The construction removes sweat from<br />
the skin and evaporates it off the surface<br />
of the baselayer quickly, so that nasty<br />
feeling of ‘cold sweat’ never materialises.<br />
3. Fewer layers, greater warmth<br />
and freedom to move<br />
The Ultimate is the ideal product for people<br />
who dislike traditional tight baselayers. Over the<br />
years, you may well have ‘layered up’ in order to<br />
combat the effects of cold weather. This is<br />
where we are changing the game. The Heatrub<br />
Ultimate is so good at keeping you warm, you<br />
won’t need multiple additional layers, giving<br />
you greater freedom to move easily. In short,<br />
fewer layers yet greater warmth.<br />
4. Central Heating from<br />
top to toe<br />
Innovative ‘Heat Threads’ positioned on the<br />
inside of the garment gently rub against your<br />
skin as you move, which creates positive<br />
warmth across your body and this instant heat<br />
is retained while you’re wearing the baselayer.<br />
We also produce Heatrub Ultimate Leggings<br />
and Heatrub Ultimate Socks that are made<br />
from the same material and work in exactly<br />
the same way, so you can have top-to-toe<br />
warmth with Zerofit.<br />
Five times<br />
warmer than<br />
a standard<br />
baselayer<br />
Instant heat<br />
the moment<br />
you put it on<br />
No need for<br />
multiple<br />
additional<br />
layers – a gamechanger<br />
Heating<br />
from top<br />
to toe<br />
If I do have a concern, it would be the mesh covering the<br />
top of the boot. Clearly a way of making the boot lighter<br />
and more breathable - but I doubt they would cope with<br />
long sessions ploughing through matagouri or bush lawyer.<br />
If bush-bashing is your preference I suggest the more<br />
rigorous Phaserbound range.<br />
READER OFFER!<br />
Buy any Zerofit baselayer and receive a<br />
FREE THERMAL POM BEANIE<br />
Worth$39.95 using code ADV001<br />
at checkout<br />
By the time I had emerged out of the bush and mud, and<br />
onto the beach, I had every reason to feel assured that<br />
I could rely on these Moab boots during future multi-day<br />
excursions.<br />
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243<br />
The helpful team at Merrell Takapuna store<br />
Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate baselayer (available in Black, Grey and Navy) – $129.95 ■ Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate leggings (available in Black) – $129.95<br />
■ Zerofit Heatrub Ultimate socks (available in Black) - $49.95 ■ Zerofit Heatrub Move baselayer (available in black, white and titanium) - $109.95<br />
FOLLOW US!<br />
@zerofitaustralia FOR MORE DETAILS, PLEASE CONTACT zerofit@dynacast.com.au<br />
SEE THE FULL RANGE AT WWW.ZEROFIT.COM.AU
Review<br />
"The Apex pro is<br />
made of strong<br />
material around<br />
the pockets and<br />
has strong mesh to<br />
keep it superlight."<br />
CamelBak Apex Pro Run Vest<br />
Reveiw by Nick Laurie<br />
The latest release from CamelBak is the Apex<br />
Pro running vest. I was sent one to test drive and<br />
I had some deep thought on how I would put it<br />
through its paces.<br />
I usually use a backpack for my distance races<br />
with the thought that I can carry more water and<br />
not have to waste time topping it up. This tactic<br />
did not pay off in the Kepler last December when<br />
I ran dry for the last 10k. I was lucky that there<br />
was a supermarket set up on the trail that saved<br />
me from dehydration. I was keen to try a quality<br />
running vest and CamelBak have come to the<br />
party. I could easily refill the small bottles at taps,<br />
streams, or aid stations. You can use a bladder<br />
in the Apex Pro as it has an area to hold one and<br />
a clip for the hose.<br />
The biggest bug bear with a running vest is<br />
that the bottles bounce around and slosh. The<br />
inventors at Camelbak have tackled this problem<br />
by using their sealable flasks that have a leak<br />
lock. They are secured with 2 tie downs and<br />
have a nifty hole in the bottom so that you can<br />
hang them when drying. When you drink you<br />
have to suck the flask taking the air out of play<br />
and eliminating the slosh.<br />
The next issue for me is that the material is often<br />
too light and rips and tears easily. The Apex pro<br />
is made of strong material around the pockets<br />
and has strong mesh to keep it superlight. There<br />
are heaps of handy storage pockets and even a<br />
waterproof one that fits an iphone. The big deal<br />
about this vest is that it has RECCO technology<br />
sown into it that will reflect any search and<br />
rescue beacon making it easy to find you if you<br />
get lost after dark.<br />
I wanted to test this vest on a track with heaps<br />
of stairs to see how bouncing around would feel.<br />
None better than the track from Huia to Whatipu<br />
in West Auckland. Steps, Steps and more Steps.<br />
I knew that the return trip would take me 3 hours<br />
and the 1 litre of water that I could carry in the<br />
flasks would give me enough. If I was guzzling<br />
too much, I could refill at Whatipu campground.<br />
" I found it way freer<br />
to run with than the<br />
backpack and loved<br />
having all of the<br />
weight up around<br />
my shoulders."<br />
I also decided to carry all of the<br />
compulsory gear that is needed for a race<br />
to test the capabilities. I discarded the<br />
quiver pack for poles that comes with the<br />
Apex Pro because I am not a stick racer<br />
just yet. It was easy to remove and will clip<br />
back on just as easily. The gear fit in easily<br />
and I could distribute it around to different<br />
pockets for comfort. I didn’t need a whistle<br />
because the pack comes with its own.<br />
I’m reasonably broad with a 105cm chest<br />
and was given a size large to try. What!<br />
Not an XL! At first glance that line from<br />
the flight of the concords “small mans<br />
wetsuit” came to mind but once I put it on<br />
and adjusted the positioning of the cross<br />
straps, to fit around my man boobs, I was<br />
very grateful for the snug fit - no rattling or<br />
bouncing. I found it way freer to run with<br />
than the backpack and loved having all of<br />
the weight up around my shoulders rather<br />
than down in the small of the back which<br />
after a couple of hours can get annoying.<br />
It felt good.<br />
The only bug bear was that I am a heavy<br />
sweater and the whole pack with exception<br />
of the phone pocket was saturated. I<br />
would suggest putting thermals that you<br />
want to stay dry in a plastic bag. I chucked<br />
the pack in the washing machine with<br />
my running gear, washing out the bottles<br />
separately and am ready for my next<br />
adventure.<br />
This vest is the bomb!<br />
BE IN YOUR ELEMENT.<br />
BECOME A COP.<br />
APPLY AT NEWCOPS.GOVT.NZ<br />
Constable | New Zealand Police<br />
Competitive Kaihoe Waka Ama<br />
Bay of Plenty District<br />
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
FEED YOUR ADDICTION<br />
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />
development in online stores over the past 5 years.<br />
We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some<br />
you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,<br />
compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to<br />
feed your adventure addiction.<br />
Aspiring Guides offers specialised, innovative & personalised<br />
mountain guiding services.<br />
www.aspiringguides.com<br />
Amazing holidays for active people and those who seek<br />
‘travel less ordinary’. www.wildsidetravel.co.nz<br />
The best outdoor equipment for all of your adventurous<br />
antics. Outdoor Action has you sorted.<br />
www.outdooraction.co.nz<br />
Building versatile and reliable gear so you<br />
can adventure with purpose.<br />
www.keaoutdoors.com<br />
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />
brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />
www.bivouac.co.nz<br />
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />
www.merrell.co.nz<br />
Temperature. Taste. Transport.<br />
Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.<br />
www.hydroflask.co.nz<br />
Top NZ made health supplements delivered straight<br />
to your door, with same day dispatch.<br />
www.supps.nz<br />
This small, friendly family-run company is based in Lake<br />
Tekapo, New Zealand, specializing in guided outdoor<br />
adventures throughout New Zealand's Southern Alps.<br />
www.alpinerecreation.com<br />
The place to go for all the gear you need whether you're skiing,<br />
snowboarding, hiking, biking or just exploring.<br />
www.thealpinecentre.co.nz<br />
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />
www.patagonia.co.nz<br />
With 22 locations around NZ<br />
we’re one of the largest car<br />
rental networks in the country.<br />
www.rad.co.nz<br />
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />
Stocking an extensive range<br />
of global outdoor adventure<br />
brands for your next big<br />
adventure. See them for travel,<br />
tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />
lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />
www.outfittersstore.nz<br />
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />
Your adventure travel specialists, with over 20 years<br />
experience! They live what they sell.<br />
www.madabouttravel.co.nz<br />
Supplying tents and<br />
camping gear to Kiwis<br />
for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />
Camping are proud to<br />
be recognised as one of<br />
the most trusted outdoor<br />
brands in New Zealand.<br />
www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />
The only baselayer<br />
you'll need. 5 x<br />
warmer than a<br />
traditional baselayer<br />
www.zerofit.com.au<br />
Bobo Products, a leading importer and distributor of snow<br />
and outdoor products in New Zealand.<br />
www.bobo.co.nz<br />
NZ world class climbing centre.<br />
Your climbing experience is at<br />
the heart of what they do. They<br />
provide trained and competent<br />
professionals that are psyched<br />
on climbing and passionate<br />
about supporting others.<br />
www.northenrocks.co.nz<br />
Purveying the finest singleorigin<br />
roasted Espresso<br />
and Filter coffee in NZ since<br />
2013 for you to enjoy at<br />
home or work.<br />
www.redrabbitcoffee.co.nz<br />
10% discount on coffee use<br />
ADV10%
Tokyo, the selfie city<br />
JAPAN: a country of contrast<br />
In James Clavell's book ‘Shogun’, one of<br />
the characters explains how the Japanese<br />
have three hearts: ‘one they have in their<br />
mouth that they show the world, one in<br />
their heart that they show their friends and<br />
family and a third that is deep in their soul,<br />
they show only to God alone’.<br />
Shogun is the story of John Blackthorne,<br />
an English sailor who was shipwrecked<br />
in Japan in the 1500s and must quickly<br />
come to terms with the unique challenges<br />
of Japanese culture. Now, we were not<br />
shipwrecked, we were there by choice,<br />
but the culture was still a shock - well, less<br />
than a shock, more of a confusion that<br />
takes some getting used to.<br />
We were on our way to Club Med Sahoro<br />
to ski, and we stopped off in Tokyo for<br />
three days. We had done our research<br />
and knew what to expect, to a degree.<br />
When you think of Japanese people and<br />
the Japanese way of life, you think of a<br />
controlled, polite, historic, and ‘cultured’<br />
destination. I was expecting geisha girls<br />
in kimonos shuffling down the street, but<br />
I wasn’t expecting city life on acid. Tokyo<br />
is a bigger-than-life, anime, sign-flashing,<br />
sound-blaring cacophony of light and<br />
sound that assaults your senses twentyfour<br />
hours a day, seven days a week.<br />
In a freezing 3 degrees, young women<br />
were dressed as schoolgirls in miniskirts<br />
and high boots; and there were people<br />
outfitted as rabbits and mice. Every<br />
wall seemed plastered with the same<br />
humongous boy/girl K-pop band.<br />
Tokyo is a massive sensory overload; a<br />
city crammed with people and noise, yet,<br />
in all the chaos, there was a politeness<br />
and a sense of calm and safety that I<br />
had never felt in a big city before. It is<br />
entertaining, if exhausting.<br />
"TOKYO IS A MASSIVE<br />
SENSORY OVERLOAD;<br />
A CITY CRAMMED<br />
WITH PEOPLE AND<br />
NOISE, YET, IN ALL THE<br />
CHAOS, THERE WAS<br />
A POLITENESS AND A<br />
SENSE OF CALM AND<br />
SAFETY THAT I HAD<br />
NEVER FELT IN A BIG CITY<br />
BEFORE"<br />
However, amongst the chaos lies some<br />
really tranquil places, such as the Shinjuku<br />
Gyoen National Gardens, a surprising<br />
haven in the midst of the bright lights and<br />
high rises.<br />
Getting around Japan most people use<br />
the immense train system. To describe it,<br />
imagine you had a large piece of paper<br />
and tipped a bowl of spaghetti onto it,<br />
that is what the local train map looks like:<br />
hundreds of intersecting lines, hundreds<br />
of trains and then thousands of people in<br />
neat, well-ordered lines waiting to board.<br />
Once you find the correct train, on the<br />
correct platform and stand in your neat<br />
shoulder-to-shoulder rows, the train doors<br />
open, and the culture switch is flipped<br />
off. In a land where personal space and<br />
politeness count for everything, sitting<br />
down with another man standing in front<br />
of you with his genitals less than 20 cm<br />
from your nose is a little discomforting; the<br />
politeness and personal space rules on<br />
the train go right out the window.<br />
We caught the train out to Kamakura one<br />
day and arrived in what seemed another<br />
world. The towering hotels and office<br />
blocks were replaced by ancient trees and<br />
equally ancient temples and a calmness<br />
and serenity that you associate with every<br />
big cathedral in the world. Here, there<br />
were women dressed as geisha girls (we<br />
later found out most were tourists), people<br />
praying, people talking in hushed voices<br />
and oddly what seemed like every other<br />
person taking selfies.<br />
This is the ‘three-heart’ aspect of Japan.<br />
On the one hand, you have a crazypacked<br />
environment where people are<br />
ant-like, frenetic and crazy. Then, there<br />
is this other incredibly calm and cultured,<br />
peaceful environment which seems just a<br />
short distance away.<br />
The first few days in Japan left me<br />
bewildered and confused, sure I was<br />
entertained and impressed but as we<br />
headed out of Tokyo towards Hokkaido<br />
you had a defined feeling that this too<br />
would be a whole new experience.<br />
We felt the change as soon as the plane<br />
landed, we had gone from Tokyo city life<br />
and landed in an airport covered as far as<br />
you could see in ‘Yuki’ - snow.<br />
Less than two hours from the airport is<br />
Club Med Sahoro, located in the southern<br />
part of Central Hokkaido, 167km east of<br />
The bright lights of Tokyo<br />
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//85
Incredible food, zero crowds and an enclosed gondola all make for an amazing Club Med experience<br />
Sapporo and 130km from the New<br />
Chitose Airport. After the hustle and<br />
bustle of Tokyo, arriving at Club<br />
Med Sahoro felt like “coming home”.<br />
The resort sits a little way up the<br />
mountain and is ski-in ski-out right<br />
from the back door. Access to the<br />
lifts (and then back again to the lodge<br />
at the end of the day) is via beginner<br />
trails that meander through woods,<br />
somewhat like a scene from Narnia.<br />
This was much more our style.<br />
We arrived at Club Med, or “the<br />
Club” as it’s fondly known and were<br />
greeted by one of the on-site resort<br />
team known as the G.Os, (the<br />
acronym comes from the French<br />
word, “Gentil Organisateur” basically<br />
translated to Gentle/Gracious<br />
Organiser in English). There job is<br />
to keep you entertained with the<br />
numerous programs and activities<br />
available and we came to appreciate<br />
that the G.O.’s are the heart and soul<br />
of the Club Med experience.<br />
Our G.O. happened to be a fellow<br />
Kiwi from Nelson. She was excited<br />
to meet someone from ‘home’ as<br />
for some strange reason, Kiwis do<br />
not make up a large percentage of<br />
the visitors to Club Med Sahoro. I<br />
wonder if it has something to do with<br />
our Kiwi 8-wire mentality; we think<br />
we can pretty much do anything,<br />
so the last thing we seek is an allinclusive<br />
package deal that is Club<br />
Med. We soon learnt that having that<br />
mentality means the Kiwis are really<br />
missing out.<br />
Arriving in the late afternoon, after<br />
going through the “orientation” and told<br />
all the things that were available for us,<br />
we headed to the bar for drinks. This<br />
was our first introduction to the “Club<br />
Med” way of life. Firstly drinks at the<br />
bar are free. Yep, and not just a house<br />
wine or beer, and people will talk to<br />
you. Actually, that’s all part of the<br />
experience of going to Club Med.<br />
We sat down in the bar, drinks<br />
in hand, looking out to the snow<br />
covered hills when a group of young<br />
men (early 20s) sat down and asked<br />
us how we were enjoying ourselves.<br />
Surprised that these young men<br />
would be interested in what us oldies<br />
were up to, we mumbled something<br />
about only just arriving and took a<br />
sip of our drinks. Turns out these<br />
young men were some of the G.O’s<br />
and they chatted away, asking us<br />
questions about where we were from<br />
and telling us all about the fun we<br />
were going to have during our stay.<br />
The staff were all incredibly articulate<br />
and friendly, and hailed from a range<br />
of countries. Some worked at Club<br />
Med as a full time job, others had<br />
“summer jobs” back in their home<br />
countries and spent the winters<br />
working at Club Med Sahoro.<br />
Our first night in the bar was followed<br />
by dinner in the restaurant. We had<br />
the choice of joining a bigger table<br />
or sitting on our own. We were<br />
somewhat reluctant to just “barge<br />
in” on someone else having their<br />
dinner so we opted for a table for<br />
two. The restaurant offered a buffet<br />
with a huge range of options from<br />
traditional Japanese food, Thai,<br />
Chinese, European and more, all<br />
delicious, as well as a traditional<br />
nabemono (hot pot) restaurant that<br />
you needed to book.<br />
After dinner there was a show. Now<br />
I have to admit I’m not overly keen<br />
on the hoopla that goes with this<br />
type of performance entertainment,<br />
but I learnt that it’s all part of the<br />
experience. It’s easy to sit back and<br />
let the action happen around you but<br />
you gain so much more by stepping<br />
up and getting involved.<br />
" IT’S EASY TO SIT<br />
BACK AND LET THE<br />
ACTION HAPPEN<br />
AROUND YOU BUT<br />
YOU GAIN SO MUCH<br />
MORE BY STEPPING<br />
UP AND GETTING<br />
INVOLVED."<br />
The following morning we were keen<br />
to get out for our first taste of the<br />
mountain. The Sahoro Express, one<br />
of the ski lifts, only opens on the<br />
weekends and as it was a Sunday<br />
we knew we only had the day to<br />
ride that terrain, so that’s where we<br />
headed first. Although Sahoro was<br />
not having great snow conditions<br />
that week, due to the fact that the<br />
Express had not been skied on<br />
all week, there was still plenty of<br />
powder pockets to be found and<br />
some very steep terrain. Probably<br />
not the ideal starting point but it was<br />
either today or never.<br />
We had a great morning skiing<br />
through the snow laden trees on<br />
the upper reaches of the Sahoro<br />
Express. We said again and again<br />
you could see what huge potential<br />
the terrain had if there was new<br />
snow. However, we made the best<br />
we could of what was available.<br />
One of the great things about skiing<br />
in Club Med was you just had to ski<br />
back to the resort at lunchtime. You’d<br />
leave your boots in your locker, slip<br />
on your shoes and head into the<br />
restaurant for lunch before reversing<br />
the steps and heading back out to<br />
the slopes for the afternoon.<br />
Skiing the trees off the Sahora Express<br />
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
"CLUB MED SAHORO, ACCESS<br />
TO THE LIFTS (AND THEN<br />
BACK AGAIN TO THE LODGE<br />
AT THE END OF THE DAY) IS<br />
VIA BEGINNER TRAILS THAT<br />
MEANDER THROUGH WOODS,<br />
SOMEWHAT LIKE A SCENE<br />
FROM NARNIA."<br />
CLUB MED SAHORO QUICK FACTS:<br />
The resort offers 16 included activities :<br />
• Group ski lessons for kids<br />
• Group ski lessons for teens<br />
• Group ski lessons for adults<br />
• Magic Carpet<br />
• Group Snowboard lessons<br />
• Four fitness lessons (high intensity,<br />
yoga, soft training and cardio<br />
room)<br />
• Entertainment<br />
• Swimming pool<br />
• Aqua classes<br />
• Sauna<br />
• Badminton<br />
• Squash<br />
• Table tennis<br />
• Card games and more<br />
• Kids clubs<br />
and 6 on demand activities:<br />
• Spa<br />
• Kasumi Waterfall Trekking<br />
• Tomraushi Onsen<br />
• Private ski lessons<br />
• Private Snowboard lessons<br />
• Pool table<br />
Ski and snowboard gear available to<br />
hire or purchase<br />
88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89
Club Med is a slick operation in every<br />
way. We have skied at numerous places<br />
around the world but the ease of skiing at<br />
Club Med is hard to beat. The “bracelet”<br />
around your wrist gives access to both<br />
your room and ski locker so you are<br />
never searching for your keys.<br />
Like other Club Med properties, the<br />
holiday is all-inclusive; accommodation,<br />
entertainment, activities, lift passes,<br />
meals, snacks, beverages, as ski and<br />
snowboard lessons every day. Kids'<br />
programs are also included (for children<br />
over 4), and child care for 2-4-yearolds<br />
is available, so parents can relax<br />
knowing that the kids are cared for.<br />
We were travelling as a couple, but<br />
this was a family resort and as one of<br />
the friends we made explained, that for<br />
them, with two young children, Club Med<br />
was a real game changer. We met and<br />
made friends with a range of parents<br />
who had children as young as 4 in ski<br />
school and child care, and the kids<br />
loved it, which meant the parents loved<br />
it. They were free to have their time on<br />
the slopes and all were excited to meet<br />
back to have dinner and play with their<br />
children at the end of the day, a perfect<br />
scenario.<br />
As many of the snow-based resorts in<br />
Japan, Sahoro is a resort in the truest<br />
sense; there is no village or other<br />
restaurants or shop's to explore. The<br />
club is self-contained, however, you<br />
can get a taxi to the nearby town of<br />
Shintoku, which is about 30 mins away.<br />
Sahoro Ski Resort is medium sized with<br />
only 610 metres of vertical (420-1,030m)<br />
and 21 marked runs. The resort is all<br />
below the treeline, with runs through<br />
the forested mountain slopes. Of the<br />
21 trails, 8 are rated for beginners, 3<br />
Our ski instructor, Craig and our amazing group who became fast friends at Club Med Sahoro<br />
" WE WERE LUCKY TO GET THE SAME<br />
INSTRUCTOR FOR MUCH OF THE WEEK, A<br />
SCOTTISH GUY CALLED CRAIG... I LEARNED<br />
MORE IN A WEEK FROM CRAIG THAN I HAVE<br />
DONE IN THE LAST 10 YEARS. "<br />
for intermediates, and 10 for advanced<br />
riders (black runs). The lift network is<br />
well developed with a gondola, 3 highspeed<br />
quads, and 5 other lifts. Advanced<br />
skiers and snowboarders will prefer to<br />
get off-piste, when there is snow. (Club<br />
Med even offer ski lessons to ski trees).<br />
Japan is renowned for amazing dry<br />
powder. With an average snowfall of<br />
8.7m, we had heard the stories and<br />
seen the pics. But no one controls the<br />
snow gods, and on our arrival, even<br />
though there was an abundance of<br />
snow, it wasn’t dry, and it wasn’t powder.<br />
We were simply a little unlucky in<br />
getting warm weather, with just some<br />
snow flurries, but the upside is we<br />
experienced a week of sunshine, rarely<br />
spoken about in Japanese ski chats.<br />
After exploring the mountain on our own<br />
for the first day we decided to join one<br />
of the lessons (all inclusive). For two<br />
and a half hours each morning and two<br />
and a half hours every afternoon, you<br />
could meet up with a group of skiers of<br />
a similar level and your instructor would<br />
take you out for the day.<br />
We were lucky to get the same instructor<br />
for much of the week, a Scottish guy<br />
called Craig. He had spent 13 seasons<br />
working on Turoa, in Ohakune, NZ so<br />
we considered him n honorary Kiwi. He<br />
was a super nice guy and extremely<br />
knowledgeable. I thought that with an<br />
offering of free ski instruction at all<br />
levels, the expertise might be a bit ‘thin’.<br />
This was not the case, and I learned<br />
more in a week from Craig than I have<br />
done in the last 10 years.<br />
Not only do the instructors teach all day<br />
but there commitment to Club Med does<br />
not end there. You’ll find the instructors<br />
(and all the G.O’s) in the restaurant<br />
each night, having dinner with different<br />
guests before joining in the evening<br />
entertainment. Craig did a great rendition<br />
of air-guitar for one of the evenings<br />
shows, while others sang, danced and<br />
even performed aerial shows.<br />
Historically, Club Med carried a young<br />
person’s vibe tag, but our experience<br />
was that it was superb for families and<br />
involved hassle-free skiing. Their focus<br />
was clear, for everyone to have fun, and<br />
they achieved that every moment of<br />
every day at every level.<br />
The best part about any place you visit<br />
is the people you meet but that’s not<br />
always easy to do; we tend to keep<br />
to ourselves a little. However, Club<br />
Med forces you into a more interactive<br />
environment that you cannot help<br />
but embrace. As a result we met and<br />
became friends with a wide range of<br />
people, young and old, some with<br />
families, some couples and some<br />
travelling on their own.<br />
Whether it was at our ski lessons, over<br />
lunch or dinner, in the bar or after skiing<br />
at one of the evening ‘shows’, you were<br />
encouraged to get involved and interact<br />
with one another. We found the more we<br />
embraced the Club Med experience, the<br />
more we got involved, the more we got<br />
out of it. As we have said in <strong>Adventure</strong><br />
over and over again, when travelling,<br />
it is less about where you are, but who<br />
you are with and who you meet and we<br />
met some incredible people.<br />
Despite my early reluctance we found<br />
we embraced the Club Med feel, the<br />
family feel, and the camaraderie, and<br />
by the end of the week, we had made a<br />
group of long-lasting friends, all enjoying<br />
the experience that Club Med offers.<br />
We will be back...<br />
Groomed empty runs with Club Med in the background<br />
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//91
"CLUB MED SAHORO WHEN THE<br />
SNOW IS FALLING..."<br />
92//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//93
COOK ISLANDS: exploring the depths<br />
Beachfront and garden Bungalows Onsite restaurant and bar<br />
Rarotonga’s stunning southern coast Set on one of the best beaches on the island<br />
" AMONG THE<br />
COOK ISLANDS,<br />
RAROTONGA AND<br />
AITUTAKI EMERGE<br />
AS THE PREMIER<br />
DIVING HUBS."<br />
Cook Islands archipelago is comprised<br />
of 15 serene islands embraced by<br />
vibrant coral reefs. These islands are<br />
nestled some 900 kms distant from<br />
Tahiti, French Polynesia, and 800 kms<br />
from the Kingdom of Tonga, and about<br />
the 3 hour flight from Auckland.<br />
Among the Cook Islands, Rarotonga and<br />
Aitutaki emerge as the premier diving<br />
hubs. Rarotonga, the lively capital with a<br />
populace of 14,000, exudes a colourful<br />
charm. Its bustling daily markets, vibrant<br />
community events, and diverse dining<br />
and entertainment options create a<br />
perfect blend of relaxation and activity.<br />
Unlike its counterpart, Aitutaki, situated<br />
to the north, Rarotonga experiences<br />
cooler temperatures due to its higher<br />
altitude, with occasional dips in the<br />
afternoons. However, Aitutaki boasts<br />
more consistent temperatures, albeit<br />
slightly higher, accompanied by<br />
increased humidity.<br />
Both islands offer a similar array of dive<br />
sites, with Aitutaki boasting marginally<br />
better water temperatures and visibility.<br />
Best Time to Visit the Cook Islands:<br />
Nestled in the Southern Hemisphere, the<br />
Cook Islands enjoy summery conditions<br />
from October to March, maintaining<br />
a pleasant temperature range of 25-<br />
29°C year-round. However, visitors to<br />
Rarotonga during the winter months<br />
should anticipate occasional rain and<br />
cloud cover, necessitating additional<br />
layers. Water temperatures vary<br />
throughout the year, with Rarotonga's<br />
waters typically cooler at around 24°C.<br />
Under the surface:<br />
Exploring the underwater realm reveals<br />
a vibrant tapestry of marine life typical of<br />
the South Pacific. Expect to encounter<br />
a kaleidoscope of colourful fish species,<br />
including unicorn fish, butterflyfish,<br />
snappers, groupers, and angelfish.<br />
Divers may also spot green and<br />
hawksbill turtles, white-tip sharks, moray<br />
eels, and eagle rays.<br />
Rarotonga's dive sites feature<br />
breathtaking drop-offs adorned with an<br />
intricate mosaic of coral formations in<br />
hues of pink, purple, red, and yellow.<br />
Each dive unveils a new coral landscape<br />
with diverse fish and pelagic species.<br />
Moreover, the Cook Islands offer prime<br />
opportunities for humpback whale<br />
sightings between June and September,<br />
particularly near Aitutaki's marina and<br />
Rarotonga's Trader Joes dive sites.<br />
W W W . P A L M G R O V E . N E T<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//95
PREMIER DIVE SITES IN RAROTONGA:<br />
1. Ednas Anchor: Nestled between coral<br />
outcrops, the anchor of the schooner Edna rests<br />
at approximately 23 meters, surrounded by a<br />
vibrant array of reef fish. This serene dive offers<br />
excellent visibility and leads to Rarotonga's<br />
mesmerizing drop-off.<br />
2. Mataroa Wreck: Deliberately sunk in<br />
December 1990, the Tongan sailing vessel<br />
Mataroa now serves as a thriving marine<br />
habitat. Divers can explore the fragmented<br />
wreck, adorned with flourishing flora and<br />
inhabited by lionfish and various reef dwellers.<br />
3. Rutaki Passage and Drop-off: This narrow<br />
vertical canyon boasts Rarotonga's most<br />
impressive drop-off, attracting experienced<br />
divers seeking encounters with tunas, white-tip<br />
sharks, and barracudas. Strong currents add to<br />
the thrill of exploring this dynamic underwater<br />
landscape.<br />
4. Bluewater Diving: Dive into the depths of<br />
the ocean and encounter an abundance of<br />
marine life drawn to Fish Aggregating Devices<br />
(FADs). These artificial structures create thriving<br />
ecosystems, offering glimpses of tuna schools,<br />
barracudas, mahi-mahi, and diverse shark<br />
species at depths ranging from 10 to 50 meters.<br />
96//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#243
Luxury possum fur products,<br />
custom-made with passion<br />
and care in Whakatane, NZ<br />
More ways<br />
to have<br />
Fun<br />
this Autumn<br />
Our new slides, with New Zealand’s<br />
first LED lights, are officially open.<br />
That means more ways to spend time<br />
with the people you love, and more<br />
ways to experience the future of fun<br />
this autumn!<br />
Book your family getaway today<br />
hanmersprings.co.nz<br />
SUPPSNZ<br />
Support<br />
muscle growth<br />
and strength,<br />
with our high<br />
purity Creatine.<br />
SHOP NOW<br />
Clothing | Hats | Socks | Cushions | Accessories & more<br />
e: info@bearcottage.co.nz | p: 07 308 9994<br />
www.bearcottage.co.nz<br />
Just 90 minutes north of Christchurch<br />
www.supps.nz | 0800 773 766<br />
HST2682 Our NZ Print Advert FA_March.indd 1<br />
15/02/24 3:54 PM<br />
GEAR TO<br />
PREPARE FOR<br />
EVERY OUTDOOR<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
E-Bike Rentals<br />
Skibiz @ The Alpine Centre, National Park Village<br />
The Best way to see Rarotonga<br />
Book your next bike or e-bike adventure at www.riderarotonga.com<br />
Call 27433 or drop in and see us<br />
Located in the heart of the Ruapehu District<br />
...the outdoors capital of the North Island!<br />
Gorgeous unique bespoke historic Vacation Home:<br />
Ideal for families and groups.<br />
Centrally located to: Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />
Pureora Timber Trail<br />
The mighty Whanganui River<br />
The Forgotten Highway (& Bridge to Nowhere)<br />
30Mins to Whakapapa & 60mins to Turoa<br />
Plus central to numerous other treks and trails<br />
(& Waitomo GlowWorm Caves en route from Auckland)<br />
Boots<br />
Packs<br />
Rainwear<br />
Hiking Poles<br />
Sleeping Bags<br />
All your hiking<br />
essentials<br />
available for hire!<br />
Rarotonga’s only dedicated Bike Shop | Bike delivery available | Sales + Servicing<br />
www.driveraro.com<br />
In Avarua at the wharf end opposite the Punanga Nui Market<br />
www.rarotongalaundromat.com<br />
www.rarotongabeachapartments.com<br />
www.TheOldPostOfficeLodge.co.nz<br />
B U I L D Y O U R K I T :<br />
W W W . K E A O U T D O O R S . C O M<br />
ebikes now available<br />
For local Mountains to Sea trails |<br />
Fishers Track | Marton Sash & Door and more…<br />
bookings and availability ph: 07 892 2717<br />
www.thealpinecentre.co.nz for online bookings
“Escape ordinary”<br />
Caring luxury | Local flavour | One of a kind<br />
Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage area available<br />
1191 Pukaki Street, Rotorua<br />
p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz<br />
SIGN UP | FEEL THE RUSH | MAKE A DIFFERENCE<br />
S.A Shuttles are a specialists when it comes to Auckland Airport shuttle<br />
services. We pick-up passengers from the Airport and deliver to; hotels,<br />
motels, CBD and the suburbs (door to door). This service is available to<br />
meet every flight arriving into Auckland Airport.<br />
• BOOKED shuttle services to meet flight<br />
• On demand shuttle services for group bookings<br />
• Direct shuttle for individual needs<br />
• Corporate Transfers for Business Client<br />
We also do tours around the North Island | www.southaucklandshuttles.com | bookings@sashuttles.com | 0800 300 033 (Toll free)<br />
STEP #1<br />
Sign up to feel the rush today! It only<br />
takes a few minutes to create &<br />
customise your fundraising page.<br />
Sharing your page is super easy too.<br />
STEP #2<br />
Get your friends & family to sponsor<br />
you - raise $1,000 or more to<br />
redeem your free jump while<br />
creating a future with less cancer.<br />
www.jumpforcancer.org.nz<br />
STEP #3<br />
There are Jump Days you can join, or<br />
you can choose your own jump date<br />
with any of our 9 skydiving partners<br />
around Aotearoa!
FREEDOM IS ELECTRIC<br />
THE ALL-NEW<br />
JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE<br />
4Xe PLUG-IN HYBRID<br />
jeep.co.nz