Adventure Magazine #242

Travel issue of Adventure Feb/Mar 2024

Travel issue of Adventure
Feb/Mar 2024


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adventure<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

ISSUE 242<br />

Feb/Mar 2024<br />

NZ $11.90 incl. GST<br />




Travel Broadly, Pack Wisely<br />


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder<br />

Pretty or pest?<br />

We walked across so many streams to reach the spot where this<br />

shot was taken, it was the lupins that drew us in, not the birds or the<br />

mountains nor the braided river, but the lupins.<br />

We stayed for ages, taking numerous photos to try to capture the<br />

beauty of the lupins in this incredible environment, only to return to<br />

civilisation and find out they are considered a weed!<br />

Even when we put an image on our Instagram page<br />

@adventuermagazine someone commented on the need for the<br />

‘eradiation of lupins’.<br />

‘Someone needs to spray those weeds! Every time I see a photo<br />

of them, I cringe. As bad as influencers doing boho decorating with<br />

pampas flowers.’<br />

According to DoC a determined bid has been launched to rid the<br />

Arthur's Pass area of wild lupins, which fill the Waimakariri River<br />

Valley with a colourful display every year but are also choking the<br />

nesting habitat of several bird species.<br />

The Department of Conservation has previously mounted attempts to<br />

spray the Russell lupins, obviously unsuccessfully.<br />

It raises the question of ‘when does a weed become part of the<br />

landscape?'<br />

A lot of people stop at the end of the Waimakariri bridge to take photos<br />

of the vista before them of the Waimakariri valley of the valley, the<br />

mountains and the lupins, they have become somewhat iconic.<br />

We appreciate that the lupins may impact biodiversity, but when does<br />

an invasive species become part of the natural landscape?<br />

Aren’t we all immigrants to New Zealand at some stage?<br />

Steve Dickinson<br />

Editor<br />

Environmental groups say the invasive lupins are smothering the<br />

braided riverbeds in the area and taking over the nesting habitat of<br />

the wrybill, banded dotterel and black-fronted tern, making it difficult<br />

for them to find suitable sites that also provide cover from predators.<br />




Choosing a cover of any issue of <strong>Adventure</strong> is never<br />

easy; there is often so much to choose from, and<br />

finding that one image that shows what’s inside is<br />

always difficult.<br />

However, there are certain rules for choosing a<br />

cover; it must have a ‘wow’ factor that is obvious<br />

from the ‘get-go’, it has to sing off the shelf and<br />

call to the reader, “Come and pick me up, open my<br />

pages, see more’’.<br />

A cover is also like a badge; if you buy magazines<br />

with golfing on the cover, the chances are you are<br />

a golfer and the same with cars and sailing and<br />

fishing, in fact any niche sport. But adventure is a<br />

very wide subject matter, and we, with every issue,<br />

struggle to balance images of biking, kayaking,<br />

hiking, surfing, climbing, etc. Then, each year, we<br />

get to the February issue. The dreaded travel issue<br />

and every year it is difficult to find an image that<br />

jumps out at you, an image that makes the magazine<br />

not just a travel brochure but a publication that links<br />

those that like ‘to do stuff’ to travel.<br />

We are<br />

the Mountain<br />

People.<br />


Steve Dickinson<br />

Mob: 027 577 5014<br />

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


Lynne Dickinson<br />

design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />


ARE, Ph (09) 979 3000<br />


www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />

www.adventurejobs.co.nz<br />

www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />

@adventurevanlifenz<br />


Pacific Media Ltd,<br />

11a Swann Beach Road<br />

Stanmore Bay, Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />

Ph: 0275775014 / Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

advertising rates, demographic and stats available on request<br />

Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide,<br />

although good quality prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work published may be used on<br />

our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all<br />

reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume any<br />

responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein<br />

and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein.<br />

“Northern Rocks is an indoor<br />

bouldering facility, we foster<br />

community, growth and<br />

positive experiences for<br />

people of all backgrounds,<br />

ages and abilities.”<br />

This year, while sifting through endless images for<br />

certain destinations, we came across this image<br />

on the Cook Islands tourism website; (there is a<br />

gallery of images that you are allowed to choose<br />

from if you are media). There was an array of other<br />

images of the two same Rarotonga ladies, shopping,<br />

swimming, biking, and interacting with tourists. What<br />

caught our attention was how happy they were in<br />

every shot and how engaged. They are not your<br />

stereo typical tourism models, they are not teenage<br />

girls lying on a beach with a cocktail. They are real<br />

people who have a really good time.<br />

That enthusiasm was all we needed to put them on<br />

the cover, their smiles, the fun, their enthusiasm,<br />

and the obvious love of where they were in the Cook<br />

Islands.<br />

So this issues cover is a little different – but it has<br />

the same core message: travel, have fun, interact<br />

with locals, go discover and go and ‘do stuff.’ Bike,<br />

paddle, swim, fish, climb, surf, kayak, paddleboard...<br />

But most of all, have fun doing it!<br />

Where some see rock, we see lines.<br />

Where some see peaks, we see<br />

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SurfAid<br />

A hand up to people in the heartlands of surfing<br />

When SurfAid founder, Dr. Dave Jenkins, ventured to the surf-rich<br />

Mentawai Islands back in 1999, he was struck by the amount of preventable<br />

suffering occurring among the communities that lived there. He vowed to<br />

return to the islands with medical supplies and more hands to help.<br />

we ARE climbing<br />

“It was my first trip to the Mentawais in October 1999. I remember going<br />

onshore after a great session and seeing these kids on the beach. I followed<br />

a track into a village and saw these little graves and some of them were pretty<br />

fresh. That’s when I realised that this wasn’t paradise for the locals even<br />

though it looked like paradise from the boat. I witnessed women and children<br />

dying from malaria, malnutrition and inadequate living standards, things that I<br />

knew were treatable and, better still, preventable. I was pretty deeply affected.<br />

It was quite a contrast between our luxury charter boat with perfect waves,<br />

unlimited Bintang beers and three-course lunches, while these kids were<br />

dying literally 100 metres away. I had a clash of conscience over the next few<br />

days whether I could sail away from this place without doing anything about it.<br />

I came to the realisation that I wanted to do something and just jumped into it,<br />

left my job, sold my house, and flew home to New Zealand to start SurfAid.”<br />

Fast forward to today, SurfAid is a global non-profit dedicated to improving<br />

the health, well-being and resilience of remote communities connected to us<br />

through surfing. SurfAid’s geographical focus is on the heartlands of surfing<br />

where few visitors but surfers go, across Indonesia and Solomon Islands.<br />

SurfAid gives families the best chance of getting ahead by providing access<br />

to healthcare, clean water and sanitation, and improved nutrition and food<br />

security. Underpinning SurfAid’s mission is the belief that positive, sustainable<br />

and long-lasting change can only be achieved through the active involvement<br />

of the locals. This drives their philosophy of a ‘hand up, not a handout’,<br />

enabling local people to develop and apply their own development ideas.<br />

When you support SurfAid, you are helping to ensure that women and<br />

girls' health and well-being are significantly improved by accessing critical<br />

healthcare; children can live and thrive past their first 1,000 days of life; and<br />

families have sustainable access to clean water and safe sanitation close to<br />

their homes.<br />

Surf with purpose: Subscribe to SurfAid and claim your free Indo surfing guide<br />


John Palmer at Sunnyside, Wanaka<br />

Photo: Tom Hoyle<br />

Subscribe to the SurfAid Sessions monthly e-newsletter,<br />

and receive a complimentary copy of SurfAid’s exclusive<br />

e-book: "A Guide to Remote Surfing in Indonesia."<br />

What’s included? Over 30 pages covering when and<br />

where to go, how to get there, what to pack, how to stay<br />

safe, and of course, how to never forget the locals in the<br />

remote places we love to surf.<br />

Subscribe now at www.surfaid.org/newsletter<br />

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to providing<br />

you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear we literally stake our<br />

lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.<br />

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage<br />


www.bivouac.co.nz<br />


x<br />

Svalbard Archipelago<br />

NORWAY<br />

Svalbard Glacier<br />

Conquering Philips Ladder<br />

Images by David Sodomka / Red Bull Content Pool<br />

In an historic feat, Catalan adventurer and elite<br />

kayaker Aniol Serrasolses (who has appeared on the<br />

cover of <strong>Adventure</strong> several times) has conquered the<br />

world's highest glacier waterfall drop in the Svalbard<br />

archipelago, Norway.<br />

6//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong> Aniol Serrasolses paddles the river on the Austfonna ice ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//7<br />

cap, Svalbard on August 6, 2023

"The team faced numerous<br />

obstacles throughout their journey,<br />

including climbing treacherous ice<br />

walls, navigating across streams<br />

and crevasses, and handling the<br />

unpredictable whitewater rivers<br />

sculpted in the Arctic ice.”<br />

Aniol Serrasolses, who has appeared in these pages many times<br />

with his crazy kayak lifestyle, has embarked on a challenging<br />

expedition to the Svalbard archipelago, to one of the most remote<br />

places on earth, beginning with a 36-hour sea voyage from<br />

Longyearbyen to the Bråsvellbreen glacier.<br />

The team, including kayakers David Sodomka, Aleix Salvat, and<br />

Mikel Sarasola, all undertook an 11-kilometer trek across the<br />

Arctic's icy expanse to access the river leading to the glacial<br />

waterfall.<br />

The team faced numerous obstacles throughout their journey,<br />

including climbing treacherous ice walls, navigating across<br />

streams and crevasses, and handling the unpredictable<br />

whitewater rivers sculpted in the Arctic ice.<br />

On a previous trip to the ice, this time in<br />

Greenland, Aniol Serrasolses performs a kickflip<br />

8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong> on unknown river on ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//9<br />

Ice cap.

Facing the towering 20m glacial waterfall, Aniol Serrasolses initiated<br />

a descent that has secured him another first in kayaking history.<br />

Reflecting on the unprecedented descent, Serrasolses expressed<br />

his astonishment, saying, "It's hard to find the words to explain this<br />

feeling. It's like kayaking on another planet. Without a doubt, it's the<br />

most unique kayak I've ever done in my life.”<br />

Confronting such an unpredictable Arctic environment, and the<br />

decent called ‘Philips Ladder’, Serrasolses noted, "We were in a<br />

constantly changing environment, a unpredictable place. We knew<br />

how risky it was, but when you look around you, it all made sense.”<br />

This extraordinary feat will be showcased in 'Ice Waterfalls,' an<br />

upcoming documentary on Red Bull TV. The film promises to capture<br />

Serrasolses' historic journey, offering a glimpse into the trials and<br />

triumphs of this unparalleled kayaking adventure.<br />

Watch Aniol Serrasolses Tackle the Formidable Svalbard Glacier with<br />

a Historic 20-Meter Waterfall Drop<br />

"It's hard to find the words to explain this feeling. It's like<br />

kayaking on another planet. Without a doubt, it's the most<br />

unique kayak I've ever done in my life.”<br />

Aniol Serrasolses runs 20m tall waterfall from the Austfonna<br />

ice cap to the Arctic Ocean, Svalbard on August 8, 2023<br />


Anatolia Mountains,<br />

TURKEY<br />

x<br />

In the footsteps of St Paul:<br />

The draw of simplicity in the Anatolia mountains<br />

Words and photos by Derek Cheng<br />

Itt was getting late, and the freeze from our wet socks and<br />

shoes would soon spread to the rest of our bodies. The red<br />

and white paint that showed the way along St Paul's trail -<br />

through south-western Turkey - were hidden under a thick<br />

layer of snow that blanketed the valley we were hiking through.<br />

The beauty of our surroundings comforted the fact that we<br />

were lost.<br />

The sun was still bathing our faces in a life-affirming warmth<br />

as we stumbled upon a number of goat-herders' cottages.<br />

We opened one. Simple, dilapidated, empty. A few pieces<br />

of plywood nailed together, as air-tight as a cheese grater.<br />

A home in the summer for a goat-herder or picker of wild<br />

oregano, but abandoned in the winter when the snow-line<br />

encroached.<br />

It was exactly what we needed on this wintry evening: a<br />

floor with a roof, and a fireplace of stone. We scurried the<br />

surroundings in search of dry-ish wood and, with only an hour<br />

of daylight left, bunkered down for a night in the Anatolian<br />

mountains.<br />

The St Paul Trail is the second of seven long-distance Culture<br />

Routes in Turkey, established by British women Kate Clow,<br />

who moved to Turkey in the late 1980s. It’s a 500km-long path<br />

through rural valleys and along mountain ridges, switching<br />

from ancient Roman roads to cobble-stones to animal tracks.<br />

"It was exactly what<br />

we needed on this<br />

wintry evening: a<br />

floor with a roof, and a<br />

fireplace of stone...<br />

and with only an<br />

hour of daylight<br />

left, bunkered<br />

down for a night<br />

in the Anatolian<br />

mountains."<br />

Sunset light kisses the snowy tops of the Anatolia mountains in Turkey<br />

It supposedly follows the missionary journey that St Paul took<br />

in the first century AD, when he walked from Antalya to Yalvac<br />

to spread the word of Christianity, sparking a movement that is<br />

today one of the most dominant influence in modern history.<br />

Katelyn Merrett lies all snug in her sleeping bag next to a stone fireplace in an abandoned wooden<br />

cottage on the St Paul's trail<br />


We were immediately drawn to a sheltered<br />

patio at the front of a house with an unlocked<br />

gate, where we sought refuge after calling<br />

out to anyone in the house and hearing no<br />

replies.<br />

We stripped off our wet gear and started<br />

putting up our tent when the village's only<br />

winter resident, Esma, caught sight of us and<br />

demanded money.<br />

The cottages are busy in the summer with goat herders and collectors of mountain oregano, but thankfully for us empty over winter<br />

These days the trail combines nature,<br />

history, and adventure through<br />

2000-year-old ruins and Turkish heartland<br />

where locals survive on goats, sheep,<br />

and the trade of wild mountain herbs.<br />

My hiking partner Katelyn and I had no<br />

intention of walking the whole trail and,<br />

in the middle of winter, did not expect an<br />

easy time. We decided to take a week<br />

to explore the most scenic, mountainous<br />

and isolated section: from a Roman<br />

ruins site in Selge to the main city on the<br />

shores of Lake Egirdir - about 140kms of<br />

trail through the Koprulu Canyon, along<br />

the Sarp Daglari mountain range, and via<br />

the ancient Byzantium city of Adada.<br />

It wasn't her place, but that didn’t matter.<br />

It was the first time we had encountered a<br />

touch of hostility - not unreasonably, as we<br />

were on someone’s private property - but her<br />

disposition took a turn for the gentler after we<br />

paid her about $10 in local currency.<br />

Soon we were seated in her heated lounge,<br />

drying our mittens on her woodstove, and<br />

warming ourselves from the inside with her<br />

tomato soup, yufka, and more sugary tea.<br />

Our Turkish vocabulary was expanding<br />

rapidly. The words for ‘how many goats?’,<br />

‘New Zealand’ (which would never elicit<br />

even the faintest glimmer of recognition),<br />

and various food items quickly became our<br />

conversational comfort zones.<br />

The rain subsided by morning as we began<br />

the arduous task of climbing the hillside<br />

above the village of Caltepe in switchbacks.<br />

"Soon we were seated in her heated lounge, drying our<br />

mittens on her woodstove, and warming ourselves from the<br />

inside with her tomato soup, yufka, and more sugary tea."<br />

St Paul's trail takes you through rural Turkey where goat and sheep farming are<br />

the main ways to make a living<br />

Esma, a local in a small town, became<br />

far more hospitable after we paid her for<br />

the privilege of using a random patio to<br />

escape the rain.<br />

It was unsurprising when the trees<br />

thinned, revealing a terrain blanketed<br />

in ankle-deep snow. It wrapped the<br />

landscape in a kiss of white, but<br />

made finding trail-markers virtually<br />

impossible. They’re meant to be at<br />

least every 100m, but with no sign of<br />

any, we often simply chose the path<br />

of least resistance. When that led to<br />

an open area, the next move was<br />

total guesswork, often ending up in<br />

time-consuming trial-and-error.<br />

Luckily we found and followed a trail<br />

as it fell steeply through forest, and<br />

into the sleepy town of Kozdere.<br />

It was the biggest settlement we<br />

had seen for days, so we roamed<br />

the town looking for supplies, but<br />

only found a family who gave us an<br />

enormous bag of yufka, and then<br />

refused to take anything in exchange<br />

except our thanks.<br />

Without typical Turkish friendliness and<br />

generosity - which we would become<br />

very familiar with - we may never have<br />

made it to Selge on our first day. We<br />

were in the small town of Perge, and<br />

trying to tell a taxi driver we didn't want<br />

his services while he stubbornly claimed<br />

an absence of public transport to where<br />

we were going. A random passerby took<br />

an interest in us - two foreigners laden<br />

with heavy packs - and was soon on his<br />

cellphone, calling the only van driver who<br />

had Selge on his regular circuit.<br />

This stranger, Yousef, then boarded the<br />

van with us and invited us to his home in<br />

Selge, where we dined with his family. It<br />

was a typical house in the area - simple,<br />

with a wood stove in the lounge where<br />

the whole family slept side by side.<br />

The ancient Roman Theatre in the small Turkish town of Selge dates back to the third<br />

century AD<br />

Nearby were the remains of a Roman<br />

amphitheatre, the detritus of fallen<br />

pillars giving the area a sense of chaos.<br />

What was once a thriving, resource-rich<br />

Greek and then Roman colony from<br />

around 300 BC to 500 AD had become<br />

a quaint village. The men farm goats,<br />

while the women knitted handicrafts.<br />

The transformation begged the question:<br />

Which pace of life would you prefer?<br />

It was in Selge that we became familiar<br />

with yufka, the local flatbread, eaten<br />

with village staples tahini, yoghurt and<br />

cheese from the family goats. We ate<br />

as they ate: on the floor, sitting with a<br />

blanket over our ankles to collect the<br />

crumbs, and reaching for communal<br />

plates in the centre. This was always<br />

followed by Turkish tea served in glasses<br />

that seemed better suited to cognac.<br />

Our stay was so warm and amicable<br />

that it founded a new rule: to accept any<br />

local invitation that came our way.<br />

Our first morning on the trail was quickly<br />

interrupted when the skies opened,<br />

filling the valleys and stream-beds with<br />

an ethereal mist, and encasing our feet<br />

in cold sogginess. For three hours we<br />

persevered, our spirits lifting when we<br />

came upon a small, seemingly deserted<br />

village.<br />

Red and white markers on the ground mark the way, but where do you go when they’re buried under the snow?<br />


Ancient coins suggest that Adada dates back to at<br />

least the second century BC, and lasted until the<br />

ninth century AD. Various 2000-year-old temples<br />

populate the site along with a main acropolis,<br />

a forum that could seat 1000 people, and, on a<br />

nearby hilltop, crumbling towers protruding from a<br />

patchy canopy.<br />

And no people. Such a treasured site in New<br />

Zealand would surely be fenced off, with no<br />

interaction permitted. The absence of anyone give<br />

me the freedom to wander, to leap from giant stone<br />

to giant stone.<br />

In the south-east corner, a Roman road consisting<br />

of a series of large, superbly cut stone blocks led<br />

into the hills. As the late afternoon sun sapped my<br />

energy, I trudged downhill to a small village where I<br />

jumped on a local bus towards Lake Egirdir.<br />

Left: An elderly couple who intercepted us as we walked along the street to<br />

offer us some tea in their home<br />

This is not a journey to speed through, I thought<br />

as the bus took me towards my rendezvous with<br />

Katelyn, but to be savoured with long days and as<br />

many local interactions as possible.<br />

The remoteness of the week had left me feeling<br />

content, though I wondered how happy the people<br />

I had met would be five years from now. Maybe it’s<br />

blissful ignorance. You can’t yearn for what you’ve<br />

never had.<br />

A family invite for dinner in rural Turkey should never be turned down, which in this case included a huge pile of delicious<br />

flatbread - called yufka.<br />

The following morning, an<br />

octogenarian with a slightly<br />

wobbly gait invited us for tea<br />

after seeing us walking the<br />

street. We followed him up some<br />

rickety wooden stairs to a sunny<br />

verandah, where his wife laid out<br />

a familiar spread of bread, tea<br />

and olives on a blanket.<br />

They talked continually and<br />

laughed heartily, despite our blank<br />

faces of non-comprehension.<br />

With the aid of our dictionary -<br />

Turkish is conveniently phonetic<br />

- we deciphered a few words and<br />

discovered something universal<br />

among couples who had<br />

endured decades together: mild<br />

callousness. ‘Crazy, old baggage,’<br />

he kept saying as he pointed to<br />

his wife.<br />

Our bellies full, we left the village<br />

and attacked the south ridge of<br />

Sarp Daglari to about 1700m<br />

above sea level. Progress was<br />

slow as we scarred the virgin<br />

snow with our footprints, while<br />

distant snowy ridges put on their<br />

rose cloaks for sunset.<br />

Eventually we arrived in Beydili,<br />

population 12-ish, to familiar<br />

Turkish hospitality. A woman<br />

tending to her goats soon offered<br />

us tea and a spot to sleep on her<br />

floor. The neighbours joined our<br />

special meal of rice with carrots<br />

and leeks, tomato soup, cabbage<br />

salad and candied quince - and<br />

always with yufka.<br />

It was a gleeful evening with lots<br />

of smiling and nodding. In an<br />

attempt at humour, I looked up<br />

the word for 'smelly' and repeated<br />

it several times while pointing to<br />

our snow-soaked socks that were<br />

drying on the woodstove. But my<br />

words were taken literally, and<br />

one lady ended up washing them,<br />

despite my protestations. And<br />

when I continued to make the<br />

same joke while pointing to our<br />

naked feet, her brother earnestly<br />

doused them in some kind of<br />

perfume.<br />

It seemed a picture of idyllic life,<br />

growing organic produce and<br />

tending to goats in a tight-knot<br />

and generous community. They<br />

seemed content, free from all the<br />

pressures of the rat race, from<br />

the anxiety of a hectic, city life of<br />

a million things happening in the<br />

blink of an eye.<br />

But this place was also so<br />

isolated and far from opportunity,<br />

and if I lived here, how would I<br />

even know about all the wonderful<br />

places I've been privileged<br />

enough to experience around the<br />

world, courtesy of an income and<br />

education that would have been<br />

amiss here?<br />

The remains of the ancient Roman city of Adada, which dates<br />

back to second century BC<br />

The household’s children, like so many among the<br />

families we came across, had left the rural life in search<br />

of higher education or work. Would they thrive and<br />

never look back, or shun what they find and return to the<br />

simplicity of rural life?<br />

As we left in the morning, full of thanks and goat cheese,<br />

Katelyn's achilles injury from a few years ago started to<br />

niggle her. The pace slowed to a crawl as we descended<br />

to terraced farmland, where we hitch-hiked to Kesme.<br />

From there, she decided to take public transport to Lake<br />

Egirdir, where we’d meet up again in a few days.<br />

Hiking on my own, the Muslim call to prayer sang out as<br />

I climbed into the surrounding mountains towards the<br />

Roman ruins of Adada. I soon dropped into an open plain<br />

to find a small theatre, and a series of temples in various<br />

states of decay. One corner pillar, with stone blocks<br />

protruding from all sides, resembled an abandoned game<br />

of giant jenga on the brink of a collapse.<br />

As the bus neared the town on the shores of Lake<br />

Egirdir, a bustling city compared to the mountain<br />

villages I had been through, I immediately felt a<br />

longing to return to simplicity: the historical ruins,<br />

the grand vistas, and the gentle kindnesses that<br />

had gifted me so much over the past week.<br />

Above & top right: A teenage girl herds the family flock of goats in rural Turkey.<br />

"This is not a journey to speed through... but to<br />

be savoured with long days and as many local<br />

interactions as possible. "<br />

Katelyn Merrett stands atop some Roman ruins and surveys the rural scenery and mountainous backdrop along St Paul’s trail.<br />


NIUE<br />

x<br />

Niue<br />

The magical paradise<br />

Words by Phil Clark, Mad About Travel<br />

Think of a remote island in the South Pacific, an island with no rivers<br />

to add sediment to the water, no fringing reef to mix up the crystal clear<br />

ocean waters, incredible abundant marine life including large pelagic fish,<br />

stunning sea life and WHALES from late June through to October. Add to<br />

this an incredibly friendly population of just 1600 locals, first world services<br />

and accommodation and fantastic food and you’re getting pretty close to<br />

what Niue has to offer!<br />

Niue has to be one of the most interesting, friendly and beautiful<br />

destinations I have ever visited. If you like rock pool swimming in stunning<br />

caves, snorkeling through a mix of crystal-clear salt water with a layer<br />

of cool fresh water on top, adventurous hikes and diving, Niue is the<br />

destination for you!<br />

Formed by volcanic upheavals this coral limestone island emerges straight<br />

out of the ocean, it is just a 3 and half hour flight from Auckland, with two<br />

flights a week. Known locally as “plane day”, a festival atmosphere occurs<br />

twice a week when a market occurs at the airport, and everyone turns out<br />

to see who is arriving and who is leaving.<br />

Once you arrive the best way to get to know what is happening is to take<br />

a Niue, orientation tour the morning after plane day. Keith and Sue have<br />

been running these tours forever and they know the island intimately!<br />

They know who is on the island, the history, the best restaurants and sea<br />

walks to recommend to you.<br />

18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong><br />

Image by Hunter Malcon, Niue Blue

Image by Jonathan Irish<br />

"Niue has to be one of the most interesting, friendly and<br />

beautiful destinations I have ever visited.”<br />

Once you have your bearings you can<br />

explore the unique Niuean experiences;<br />

1. Diving – Most dive sites are incredibly<br />

close (5 minutes boat ride from the wharf).<br />

There are an abundance of caves, swim<br />

through’s, coral, fish life and around 80<br />

metres of visibility.<br />

It’s the perfect place to extend your<br />

skills and experience tropical diving on<br />

an oceanic drop off. For non-divers, the<br />

snorkeling is also off the chart!<br />

2. Uga (coconut crab) Tour – Tony runs<br />

the famous Uga (coconut crab) tour, and<br />

he has a huge knowledge of the island and<br />

of the amazing Uga crab. If you’re thinking<br />

the Uga is just a crab just wait until you<br />

meet one!<br />

3. Keep track of the tides, this is<br />

important. Many of the amazing sea<br />

tracks are accessible on certain tides.<br />

Some of the best tracks I found were<br />

Avaiki cave (low tide) where kings used to<br />

bath, Limu swimming spot with incredible<br />

snorkeling in a mix of fresh and salt water<br />

(any tide) and Matapa Chasm a long<br />

protected chasm opening out to the sea<br />

(any tide). If you’re after more adventurous<br />

walks you could explore the Talava arches<br />

or the Aanapala Chasm which has 155<br />

steps down to a freshwater chasm / cave.<br />

This one is truly epic!<br />

4. Game fishing. If you’ve never caught<br />

a Mahi Mahi or any other large tropical<br />

deep sea fish Niue offers some of the best<br />

game fishing in the world. The professional<br />

fishing skippers on the island are a highly<br />

experienced select group who have<br />

excellent boats and equipment and know<br />

their craft intimately. The 5am start is a<br />

great way to see the sunrise, and it’s all<br />

over by 11am so this gives you plenty of<br />

time to spend the afternoon relaxing by<br />

the pool.<br />

5. Whale experiences – One of the<br />

few places where you can swim with<br />

whales. Between late June and October<br />

Humpback whales nurse their young in<br />

Niue’s warm clear waters. During this<br />

period whales can be seen as close as<br />

20 metres from shore. There are two<br />

operators on island who run tours and<br />

numbers are strictly limited.<br />

6. Local food, arts and crafts. Niue has<br />

amazing food! Seafood, ceviche (raw<br />

fish), pizza, local craft beer, steak, there is<br />

even an awesome Japanese restaurant in<br />

Alofi. Another thing not to be missed is the<br />

Niuean Honey. Coconut bread smeared<br />

with butter and local honey is just the best<br />

breakfast ever!<br />

Locals insider tips for Niue<br />

Hire a car. This gives you the freedom<br />

to explore at will and discover the local<br />

restaurants, swimming holes, sea tracks<br />

and villages around the island.<br />

Pick the style of accommodation<br />

which will suit you. Niue has one major<br />

hotel (The Scenic Matavai resort) with a<br />

range of room types, but there are a huge<br />

range of accommodation options from<br />

village halls or large houses to home stay<br />

bed and breakfasts. Let our experienced<br />

consultants at Mad about Travel know<br />

what you’re after and we will find you the<br />

best possible accommodation for you.<br />

Talk to the locals. They know the best<br />

restaurants, walks, caves, swimming<br />

beaches, and they love to share their<br />

island with you.<br />

Have a lie in on Sunday and/or attend<br />

a church service. It’s a peaceful day<br />

on Niue. Once it’s lunch time, then you<br />

head to Avatele for a snorkel in the bay,<br />

followed by a burger at the Washaway<br />

café where the bar is an honesty bar.<br />

Take home the Gin (it’s cheaper duty<br />

free on the island than in NZ), the vanilla<br />

and the honey. Niuean honey is the<br />

ONLY honey you can bring into New<br />

Zealand because it’s so pure!<br />

If you’re travelling in whale season<br />

late June – October, its best to prebook<br />

as much as you can to avoid<br />

disappointment.<br />

Mad about Travel packages flights accommodation, rental car, whale watching and diving, so you don’t have to worry<br />

about anything. Discover one of the last unspoilt paradise islands in the world, but don’t tell everyone about it!<br />


WE LIVE<br />

WHAT WE<br />

SELL!<br />

0800 623 872<br />

info@madabouttravel.co.nz<br />


South Island<br />


Don't leave home till<br />

you've seen the country<br />

Road trippin through the South Island of NZ<br />

Words and photos by Steve Dickinson<br />

In 1984, there was a New Zealand tourism<br />

advertising campaign with the tagline;<br />

‘Don’t leave home till you have seen the country.’<br />

It was a tongue-in-cheek encouragement for Kiwis to<br />

ensure they had seen their own country before they<br />

ventured overseas.<br />

At <strong>Adventure</strong>, we travel a lot, and get to see some<br />

fantastic places around the world. But while recently<br />

travelling in New Zealand, it dawned on us how<br />

incredible New Zealand is and how much we take<br />

for granted.<br />

The travel tale starts like this: After recently<br />

purchasing a car in Wanaka on a ‘wifely whim,’ we<br />

decided to spend a couple of weeks driving it home.<br />

The trip had such an impact that we thought it was<br />

important to share our experiences in this publication<br />

full of world travel, a simple travel feature from home.<br />

It’s hard to beat Queenstown on a blisteringly<br />

hot summer day, and that’s where our adventure<br />

began. We had a few nights before heading north,<br />

so we checked into Hulbert House in the heart of<br />

Queenstown. It's one of NZ’s most elegant boutique<br />

lodges, with incredible views over Lake Wakatipu<br />

and set in the most spacious tranquil setting, it<br />

was a great spot to sip gin in the sunset, check the<br />

weather, plan and decide really where we wanted to<br />

go before our road trip began.<br />

With no planned route so we followed the sun and<br />

headed across Haast Pass. The scenery from the<br />

car (which is a convertible) was stunning the whole<br />

way, seemingly something new to see at every turn.<br />

This region is laced with numerous easy hikes;<br />

some, like Thunder Creek Falls, are only 5-minute<br />

walk from the main road. Haast Pass is littered<br />

with these easy-access walks, and they are clearly<br />

signed, but there are also loads more challenging<br />

hikes in the region as well for those with more<br />

time. Time became a catchword to this trip, and we<br />

quickly realised that we had not given anywhere<br />

near enough time allocation to each region.<br />

We knew this was going to have to be more of<br />

a sightseeing trip and would have to stick to the<br />

“shorter trails,” so we chose to check out the Blue<br />

Pools, a relaxed 3km return walk. However, when<br />

we arrived at the start of the Blue Pools track, we<br />

were greeted with a sign that said the bridge that<br />

gives access to the pools was permanently closed<br />

for safety reasons. Keen to stretch our legs, we<br />

walked down the Makarora River. Gathered there<br />

was a small crowd of tourists, skimming stones and<br />

looking across the fast-flowing river longingly to the<br />

other pools on the other side. We reasoned that you<br />

could wade across to the pools - carefully.<br />

The river level was relatively low, but it was<br />

deceptively fast-flowing, so if you cross this way,<br />

grab a good stick or take walking poles for the<br />

crossing. The water in this region is cold all year<br />

round, but it was worth it to reach the stunning Blue<br />

Pools, and for a while, we had them all to ourselves<br />

until the ‘lemming syndrome’ kicked in, and the<br />

landlocked tourist followed in droves. To be clear;<br />

we are not suggesting you cross the river; it's fastflowing,<br />

subject to rapid rise and as cold as the<br />

mother-in-law's breath.<br />


Queenstown done right...<br />

Unique, luxury<br />

accommodation<br />

Hulbert House combines history<br />

and tradition with unparalleled<br />

luxury, in the heart of Queenstown.<br />

Book directly and you can save up<br />

to 25% for multi-night stays.<br />

68 Ballarat Street, Queenstown<br />

Top to bottom: Our mode or transport for the week and the original reason we<br />

decided to go / Think everyone in NZ gets this image / Marijuana may not yet<br />

be legal in NZ but you can still get stoned.<br />

Back in the car, we continued across Haast Pass to Fox Glacier, and<br />

in true to “West Coast form”, the mist began to gather and it didn’t take<br />

long for the rain to arrive and our hot summer days became wintery.<br />

The list of ‘adventure-based ‘to-dos’ here is extensive: glacial walks for<br />

both beginners and advanced, kayaking, biking and so on.<br />

Glacier Country, as this area is known, has two famous Glaciers, Fox<br />

and Franz Josef. We decided to check out Franz Josef. After an early<br />

start, we headed up the well-marked trail to the lookout; it was less of a<br />

hike and more of a tourist stroll. It had been years since we last visited,<br />

and if you ever doubted global warming, you must visit the glaciers.<br />

The images at the viewing platform show the glacial retreat, which is<br />

confronting. It is almost impossible to see the foot of the glacier now.<br />

Do not get me wrong, the walk is still worth it for the stunning scenery.<br />

However, it is not what I had expected.<br />

We ensured that we had time to stop and enjoy the surroundings while<br />

going from place to place, but we wished we had more time. So often,<br />

we would say, ‘If this were in America, we would be going ‘Oh Wow,’<br />

but it’s easy to take NZ’s beauty for granted, so we made a real effort<br />

not to.<br />

The West Coast of the South Island is rugged and remote, you don’t<br />

see many people, just lots of trees, mountains, streams and valleys.<br />

When we did pass through a town, we’d stop and explore, stumbling<br />

across some unique pubs, cafes and curiosities.<br />

The aptly named Blue Pools. Not long after we took this photo a couple of boys waded over and jumped from the bridge into<br />

the freezing water below. Needless to say they got out pretty quick!<br />

Amongst the hiking tracks and biking trails, we came across one<br />

specific pub that had yet to fall into the politically correct 20th<br />

century. Behind that bar was a topless 2023 girly calendar, normally<br />

found in a 1960 mechanics workshop, and a range of other<br />

memorabilia that would not appear in any WOKE Auckland bar or<br />

restaurant. It was a Kiwi classic. I am not sure if it was tongue in<br />

cheek, or they hoped to offend, or they did not care, but the food<br />

and the beer were excellent.<br />

After driving up the west coast we decided to zigzag north, so were<br />

heading for Arthurs Pass. Chatting to one of the locals, we were<br />

advised that Arthurs Pass was closed from 10 am – 6 pm each day<br />

for road works, so we’d either need to get through early or not till<br />

the end of the day. Being cautious, we decided to get as close as<br />

we could to the road closure before stopping for the night, and that<br />

seemed to be a little town called Otira.<br />

Originally a stop on the Cobb and Co stagecoach from Canterbury<br />

to the West Coast in the 1800’s, Otira then became a base for the<br />

workers during the construction of the railway tunnel in the early<br />

1900’s with over 600 people residing there. Now, according to the<br />

2006 Census, 87 people call Otira home, a booming increase of 30<br />

from 2001!<br />

As the misty evening gloom set in, the Stagecoach Hotel loomed<br />

out of the mist, like a setting from a Stephen King novel. Now, to<br />

say that the hotel was unique would certainly not cut it. Gollum<br />

was on the roof, and every room was stuffed with collectables<br />

from taxidermy sharks to Victorian music boxes. While looking<br />

after three small kids, the lovely lady serving mentioned that the<br />

owner was a bit of a ‘hoarder’ – ‘no Sh*t Sherlock!’ Every room,<br />

every shelf, every window frame, every inch of floor space was<br />

cluttered with ‘stuff.’ To complete the picture, outside the window<br />

was Captain Cook's pig in the garden completely oblivious to being<br />

stood on by a miniature goat. Our four-poster double bed creaked<br />

more than a rocking chair, a hand-painted toilet with flowers and a<br />

full-sized stuffed penguin made for a very ‘interesting’ experience in<br />

the backend of nowhere.<br />

We were up early the next day and made our way across Arthurs<br />

Pass before the workers closed the road. Arthurs Pass is a ‘trip’ at<br />

every turn; it’s like something out of a Sound of Music movie, and<br />

cliqued as it sounds it was simply stunning. The lupins (which are<br />

evidently weeds) are crazy, with whole valleys full of purple colour.<br />

The Pass is a pass of two parts; the western side (where we<br />

were coming from) was dense with rainforest over deeply gorged<br />

rivers. By contrast, the eastern side opened to wide, shingle-filled<br />

riverbeds and vast swathes of beech forest.<br />

Arthurs Pass National Park is one part of our drive where we<br />

wished we had more time. Hiking, fishing, kayaking, and, in winter,<br />

skiing options are abundant in this unique part of our country.<br />


Clockwise from top left: Franz Josef Glacier / Held up in Ross / The name says it all / The iconic jetty at Nelson Lakes, St Arnaud<br />

/ Maruia Falls / Only on the West Coast / The Stagecoach Hotel, Otira<br />

We have already decided to return with a camper van and<br />

explore the area.<br />

The Pass seemed to come and go too quickly and our next stop<br />

was Fable Terrace Downs, just outside Christchurch, which<br />

hosts a beautiful high-country scenic golf course. Fable Terrace<br />

Downs is a wild and woolly place but stunning. Set amongst<br />

rolling hills, it is also close to the ski fields of this region, so it<br />

makes for a great luxury stay during the winter season, too.<br />

One day seemed to merge into another, and we ended up in the<br />

famous wine region of the Waipara Valley, with dozens of tasting<br />

and eating options; wine, cheese, olives. It may not have been a<br />

great ‘adventure’, but it’s a great way to spend an afternoon.<br />

Our next stop was Hanmer Springs. I had never been, read a<br />

lot about it, seen images, etc, but I had no idea it was such an<br />

adventure holiday mecca. The hot pools are legendary, and<br />

with their 3-million-dollar slide complex, it is humming. But<br />

Hanmer is alive with places to eat, excellent accommodation<br />

and a mountain of things to do.<br />

Hanmer might have started as a thermal pool health region,<br />

and the pool has been there since 1883. However, it has<br />

capitalised on its location and offers a vast range of activities:<br />

white water rafting, mountain biking, quad biking, kayaking,<br />

hiking and fishing; if you can name it, someone in Hanmer is<br />

offering it. It's a great family location with something literally for<br />

everyone.<br />

26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong><br />

The zigzag tour then passed through Lewis Pass, another<br />

spectacular scenic region of New Zealand with numerous<br />

hiking trails ranging from minutes long to multi-day hikes, and<br />

we ended up in the quaint town of Reefton. Established in the<br />

1860s gold goldrush, Reefton is the West Coast's only interior<br />

town and the first place in NZ to have electric lights. It’s nestled<br />

between the Paparoa and Victoria ranges, with the Inangahua<br />

River running through it. Apart from the history, which there is<br />

a lot of, Reefton offers a great gin distillery (do not start there).<br />

Surrounding Reefton is Victoria Conservation Park, an outdoor<br />

dream area with a network of walking tracks, some dating from<br />

the late 1800s. The 180,000-hectare conservation park is the<br />

largest in New Zealand so there’s plenty to explore.<br />

Throughout this region there’s a variety of tramping tracks with<br />

short and easy trails, plus longer and more challenging day<br />

walks or even moonlight tramp tracks.<br />

An early start saw us on the way to Saint Arnaud, the<br />

“basecamp” for the Nelson Lakes National Park. Again there<br />

are multi-day hikes from Saint Arnaud, including the wellknown<br />

Travers-Sabine circuit. The lakes are super popular<br />

over summer with water activities, but the region offers allyear-round<br />

adventures.<br />

There is some fantastic canyoning, horse trekking, and a range<br />

of huts you can walk to. The DOC information centre has vast<br />

information and is super helpful. Still, it’s an area you want to<br />

research fully to see what can be done in the time frame, as<br />

there is a lot to cover.<br />

C<br />

M<br />

Y<br />

CM<br />

MY<br />

CY<br />

CMY<br />

K<br />

Clockwise from top middle: Hidden gems you find along the road / Not enough time to ride the Old Ghost Road /<br />

Seeking Lupins in Arthurs Pass<br />

After a night catching up with friends in Blenheim, the ferry crossing loomed as the<br />

South Island part of our trip ended. We lucked onto a beautiful morning; the sun<br />

was shining, and the sea was calm as we left Marlborough Sounds towards the<br />

North Island of NZ. Wellington was a bit of a shock after the serenity of the South<br />

Island and with limited time we made a quick trip back to Auckland.<br />

In two weeks, we squeezed in more than you could have imagined, saw amazing<br />

things, and met amazing, welcoming people. We had re-filled our Kiwi bucket list of<br />

places to go back to and stay longer; the list is a lot longer now than when we left.<br />

As the promotion said in 1984, ‘Don’t leave home till you've seen the country.’<br />

It still rings true today.<br />

Let us take you on<br />

a great adventure...<br />

www.alpinerecreation.com<br />

"The 1984 promotion,<br />

"Don't leave home till<br />

you've seen the country,"<br />

still rings true today.”

Across country<br />


x<br />

Tajikistan<br />

Running across the country<br />

Words and photos by Danny Bent<br />

Tajikistan is a beautiful emerald of a country that was<br />

once part of the USSR, squished between Afghanistan,<br />

China, Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan; a country awash with<br />

turquoise rivers, green pastures and towering mountains.<br />

As you can imagine the varied influences make Tajikistan<br />

a mouthwatering smash up of cultures and people. The<br />

Tajik language for example is Persian but written with the<br />

Russian, Cyrillic, alphabet. However, Tajik is only one of<br />

over 9 languages spoken in the region with Russian being<br />

the preferred language for business and government.<br />

Fourteen of us arrived here with the aim of running across<br />

the country; up the Bartang Valley, from Afghanistan to the<br />

Chinese and Kyrgyzstan borders. Just under 300km. A<br />

route into the unknown.<br />

14 years ago, I was on my bike in Kyrgyzstan having cycled<br />

here from London on my sturdy ‘Long Haul Trucker’ bicycle<br />

named Shirley. Shirley and I were hanging out in Saritash,<br />

a town that is the crossroads of the Silk Route. My intention<br />

was to take the left turn and head into China, finishing<br />

in Southern India where I was due to start teaching at a<br />

school. But the right turn pulled me in, it led to the Pamir<br />

Mountain Range that soared above me, the Pamir Highway<br />

lay in front of me, and the promise of a country I hadn’t<br />

known about a week previous grabbed my heart.<br />

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong><br />

Liz in the Bartang Valley running towards the Pamir Mountain Range<br />


Clockwise from top left: Lunch on the side of the road / The host of one of the home stays / Tomas crosses yes another river /<br />

Jane, Steve and Nick relax and watch the mountains<br />

"I was going to try and run from the Afghan border to the<br />

Kyrgyzstan / Chinese border in 7 days.”<br />

Clockwise from top left: Caroline running strong / A house on the side of the road /<br />

Danny and film maker zoe enjoys some time with the drivers, Assan and Iraj, and doctor, Mamadyour<br />

"Slowly as we all relaxed things seemed to change. We realised that we<br />

didn’t know best and that these drivers knew these roads back to front.”<br />

The right turn was the one my heart<br />

wanted to make but I turned left none the<br />

less and stood on a pedal. The rest is<br />

history. I made it to a school in Southern<br />

India a few months later.<br />

But Tajikistan was still nestled in my<br />

heart. Life happens and like my closet,<br />

things get piled on top of other each<br />

other and soon those at the bottom<br />

are forgotten, the same was true for<br />

Tajikistan. Then I saw a film at a festival<br />

which rekindled this passion and I<br />

decided I had to go back. I’d got seriously<br />

into running in the last 10 years and my<br />

bike had taken a back seat. So I decided<br />

to try and run it. I was going to try and run<br />

from the Afghan border to the Kyrgyzstan<br />

/ Chinese border in 7 days.<br />

I’ve got used to popping ideas like this on<br />

my social media with a statement: “Who<br />

wants to join me?” It always surprises<br />

me how many friends are willing to take<br />

a step beyond the normal rational and<br />

join me on quirky, sometimes dangerous,<br />

sometime ridiculous ventures into the<br />

unknown. I’d done it before running<br />

across Iceland. This time 14 people said<br />

they wanted to give it a bash and our<br />

team was formed.<br />

The cross-cultural influences mean<br />

visiting the country comes with some<br />

warnings. The proximity to Afghanistan<br />

means that everyone I told asked if it<br />

was safe to be so close to Afghanistan<br />

and the Taliban. Adding to this there was<br />

occasional news on the BBC stating that<br />

Tajikistan was at war with Kyrgyzstan and<br />

that that border was unsafe.<br />

My previous travels told me that political<br />

propaganda and paranoia were more<br />

numerous than bad people in the world.<br />

But I was nervous; shootings and kidnaps<br />

were high in my mind.<br />

Our trip from Dushambe (the capital of<br />

Tajikistan) to our starting point, Rushan,<br />

meant we were never more than 100<br />

metres from the Afghan border, across<br />

the Panj River. We saw Taliban on the<br />

other side exactly as you see them in<br />

the press, in a flat back truck with AK47s<br />

on their shoulders. They didn’t seem<br />

anywhere near as interested in us as we<br />

were in them but our drivers stopped one<br />

of our pals taking a picture just in case.<br />

Our drivers were Komron, Iraj, Mischa,<br />

Assan, the doctor Mamadyour, and our<br />

cook Akram. When we first met we stood<br />

in the hotel lobby unsure how to proceed.<br />

They stood by their cars equally awkward.<br />

There was a clear division between us as<br />

we set off. They couldn’t speak English<br />

and we couldn’t speak Russian or Pamir<br />

or Tajik (the three languages they spoke).<br />

As we set off it became clear that they were<br />

free people who didn’t seem to understand<br />

nor care what we wanted to do. They just<br />

did what they wanted. It caused some<br />

friction, some being an understatement.<br />

Typically British, we complained behind<br />

their backs, and it was clear they weren’t<br />

too happy with us either. The whole concept<br />

of running the route seemed bonkers to<br />

them and the frustration of not getting from<br />

point A to B in the quickest time (ie in their<br />

cars) was unfathomable, they kept telling<br />

the back runners to get in the car. But<br />

obviously us runners we were determined<br />

to make it every step of the way on foot.<br />

Still, communication between the two<br />

teams was negligible and tensions were<br />

growing as our runners hadn’t quite been<br />

supported as we’d hoped. Then we pulled<br />

out our 3ft speaker we always take on<br />

our adventures. I had my phone plugged<br />

in with some motivating high tempo<br />

music to inspire the runners but Mischa<br />

had different ideas. He disconnected<br />

my phone, plugged in his own and<br />

let loose with some traditional Pamir<br />

music. Suddenly the mood changed.<br />

The 4 drivers and doctor started dancing<br />

together, it was beautiful. As each of the<br />

runners came through the checkpoint,<br />

they stopped to dance with them, some<br />

gracefully and some less so. Smiles were<br />

shared, laughter erupted, and suddenly<br />

the whole trips mood changed. We finally<br />

connected, with dance and music.<br />

Slowly as we all relaxed things seemed<br />

to change. We realised that we didn’t<br />

know best and that these drivers knew<br />

these roads back to front. As the drivers<br />

started to enjoy the slow pace of life that<br />

our runners required, they’d stop the<br />

cars whenever they saw a house and we<br />

would all enjoy the company and food<br />

of the local people, who would welcome<br />

the runners to spend the night, enjoy<br />

food with them and share a selfie. We<br />

were made to feel welcome at every<br />

turn, it was part of the culture of the<br />

people it seemed. Wherever we went we<br />

would receive kindness and gifts without<br />

question.<br />

Although the landscapes of towering<br />

glaciers, mountains and lush green<br />

valley’s made for Instagram-perfect<br />

pictures, it was the people that they<br />

talked about in an evening when we<br />

shared bread and soup at homestays.<br />

Mischa took charge of the sound system<br />

from then onwards and at any opportunity<br />

he’d have the speaker blaring and would<br />

dance with anyone; farmer, shepherds,<br />

anyone really. But the best parties were<br />

when we got to small villages; the runners<br />

would collapse exhausted and the drivers<br />

took the speaker outside and the whole<br />

village would descend for a party and<br />

dancing. It was beautiful to watch and<br />

occasionally we were dragged outside to<br />

take part.<br />

Hassan had a cheeky smile, (and also<br />

suspected appendicitis enroute which<br />

ended in a rural hospital - this story is for<br />

another day. All you need to know is he<br />

survived). He was a calming influence and<br />

spokesperson for the drivers. He would<br />

stand and give us motivation in Pamir. Then<br />

there was Komron, the leader, calm and<br />

calculated. Not a giant at just over 5 ft tall<br />

but commanded the respect of one. Iraj<br />

became my favourite driver. I was collecting<br />

all sorts of souvenirs from the road. Horns<br />

from dead sheep, old kettles, little stones.<br />

Iraj would clear out his car each morning<br />

and evening throwing these items as far<br />

away as possible from his car. I would then<br />

collect them and put them back for them<br />

only to be thrown away 12 hours later.<br />

Iraj was determined to learn some English<br />

so we could communicate, - probably<br />

to tell me not to bring the ‘souvenirs’<br />

back into the van. We used the dirt and<br />

dust that accumulated on the side of the<br />

van to draw pictures of things and then<br />

share the word in English and Pamir<br />

respectively. Once we had the basics he<br />

trusted us with ruder words, as long as<br />

Komron wasn’t around to tell him off. Our<br />

pronunciation made them laugh which<br />

was all the encouragement I needed.<br />

But one statement I perfected. Tajikistan<br />

Bapesh. Meaning Tajikistan ‘Let’s Go’. It<br />

became the chorus of the trip - and any<br />

time anyone said it the drivers and the<br />

doc, faces lit up.<br />

The runners covered around 26 miles<br />

(a full marathon) every day and if that<br />

wasn’t enough a sickness swept through<br />

the camp leaving us with exploding butts<br />

and projectile vomit and debilitating fever.<br />

The doctor, Mamadyor, came into his<br />

own here. He would come out with his old<br />

school medical bag and treat our sickness<br />

as he had our blisters and sores, with<br />

complete calm and care. It felt like your<br />

mother was looking out for you.<br />

Those without the sickness were dealing<br />

with leaking tents, altitude sickness and<br />


"We tend to<br />

look up pictures<br />

and highlights<br />

of a country<br />

before we go.<br />

But time and<br />

time again<br />

it’s the people<br />

that stay with<br />

us when we<br />

leave.”<br />

Clockwise from above: Tom, Eddie and Jenny spread out on the road / Tom, Caroline and Andy hold the finish line banner at Karakul<br />

Lake / Mark and Liz celebrate together / The drivers always had a smile for us runners / Caroline finishes her run across Tajikistan<br />

the disgust of watching a goat being<br />

slaughtered in front of us for our dinner<br />

(surely we need to understand where<br />

our dinner is coming from). A few got<br />

lost in the mountains and returned<br />

well after dark along with their sore<br />

muscles, feet, backs, heads. But every<br />

time there was an interaction with<br />

the local people, those people weeks<br />

before we’d been warned against, or a<br />

laugh shared with the drivers who we<br />

couldn’t communicate with before, it<br />

made all the rest worthwhile.<br />

We tend to look up pictures and<br />

highlights of a country before we go<br />

but time and time again it’s the people<br />

that stay with us when we leave.<br />

Especially in places like Tajikistan<br />

where you hear warnings yet receive<br />

treatment that is quite the opposite.<br />

And with this trip, it’s the drivers<br />

we remember most fondly; their<br />

laughter, their kind body language in<br />

the absence of words, their cooking,<br />

their crazy driving but most of all<br />

we remember their dancing and the<br />

way they invited us to be part of their<br />

culture for a few weeks.<br />

We were close to the border and our<br />

finish line. The drivers had done their<br />

job, they’d managed to get us to the<br />

end. I said to them “Thank you. It’s OK<br />

now, you don’t have to come, we’re<br />

finished, relax, have some tea”. Iraj,<br />

with the basic English he had said,<br />

“We come far together, we see the<br />

end.” As they all stood in unison I had<br />

to choke down a tear. We were no<br />

longer drivers and runners. We were<br />

no longer English or Pamir. We were<br />

friends. We’re already planning to<br />

come back next year to reignite this<br />

friendship!<br />

The runners all made it in one by<br />

one, including one runner who’d just<br />

had the all-clear after breast cancer<br />

and another who didn’t know it yet<br />

but would be diagnosed with breast<br />

cancer on her return. Some people<br />

had lost parents, we were all dealing<br />

with our own stories. Each one<br />

passed the finish line ribbon held by<br />

the drivers who embraced them. We<br />

embraced them back.<br />

That night in our small homestay<br />

you could hear the chink of vodka<br />

glasses as we celebrated our<br />

shared achievement and the cries of<br />

“Tajikistan Bapesh!”<br />

Instagram: @danny_bent<br />

facebook.com/dannybent<br />

www.dannybent.com<br />

"The runners all<br />

made it in one by one,<br />

including one runner<br />

who’d just had the all<br />

clear after breast cancer,<br />

another who didn’t<br />

know it yet but would<br />

be diagnosed with<br />

breast cancer on her<br />

return. People who had<br />

lost parents. All dealing<br />

with their own story. "<br />


Rarotonga<br />


x<br />

Destination Rarotonga<br />

Beauty, excitement and exploration<br />

Photos courtesy of Cook Island Tourism<br />

Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook<br />

Islands, is a tropical paradise that<br />

beckons adventure enthusiasts with its<br />

stunning landscapes, vibrant culture,<br />

and a myriad of thrilling activities.<br />

From exploring lush jungles to diving<br />

into the crystal-clear waters of the<br />

Pacific, Rarotonga offers a perfect<br />

blend of nature and adventure. In this<br />

destination feature, we will outline<br />

key adventure activities that make<br />

Rarotonga a dream destination<br />

for those seeking excitement and<br />

exploration.<br />

Snorkeling and Diving: Rarotonga<br />

boasts some of the most pristine coral<br />

reefs in the world. Grab your snorkel<br />

or scuba gear and explore the vibrant<br />

underwater world teeming with colorful<br />

marine life. The marine reserves<br />

around the island offer an opportunity to<br />

swim with tropical fish, rays, and even<br />

turtles. Dive enthusiasts can explore<br />

underwater caves and discover the rich<br />

biodiversity that thrives in the warm<br />


Hiking the interior<br />

Round Island 4x4 tour<br />

Snorkle with turtles<br />

Love the fun locals<br />

"Rarotonga offers a perfect<br />

blend of nature and adventure”<br />

Find your own tropical waterfall<br />

waters of the Pacific.<br />

Cross-Island Trek: Begin your adventure on Rarotonga with a<br />

challenging yet rewarding trek across the island. The Cross-Island Trek<br />

takes you through lush rainforests, up rugged mountain terrain, and down<br />

to hidden waterfalls. This hike provides breathtaking panoramic views of<br />

the island and a chance to witness the diverse flora and fauna that call<br />

Rarotonga home.<br />

Lagoon Cruise and Fishing: Embark on a lagoon cruise to discover the<br />

hidden gems of Rarotonga's coastline. Many operators offer half-day or<br />

full-day excursions, providing opportunities for snorkeling, swimming, and<br />

even fishing. Join a fishing expedition to try your luck at catching the likes<br />

of mahi-mahi or yellowfin tuna while enjoying the scenic beauty of the<br />

surrounding ocean.<br />

Kayaking and Paddleboarding: For a more leisurely adventure, take to<br />

the serene lagoons on a kayak or paddleboard. The calm waters around<br />

Rarotonga are perfect for these activities, allowing you to explore the<br />

coastline at your own pace. Paddle through the Muri Lagoon, surrounded<br />

by lush vegetation and small islets, and witness the vibrant marine life<br />

beneath you.<br />

Beachfront and garden Bungalows Onsite restaurant and bar<br />

Rarotonga’s stunning southern coast Set on one of the best beaches on the island<br />

36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong><br />

W W W . P A L M G R O V E . N E T

Friendly turtles, friendly locals and amazing sunsets<br />

Quad Biking and Off-Roading: For those craving an adrenaline<br />

rush, quad biking and off-roading adventures are readily<br />

available on the island. Navigate through rugged terrains, tropical<br />

plantations, and dirt trails while experiencing the thrill of offroad<br />

exploration. Guided tours ensure you discover the hidden<br />

corners of Rarotonga safely, with the added bonus of panoramic<br />

viewpoints along the way.<br />

Cultural Bike Tour: Combine adventure with cultural exploration<br />

by joining a guided bike tour around the island. Pedal through<br />

traditional villages, visit historical sites, and interact with<br />

the friendly locals. Learn about the island's rich Polynesian<br />

heritage and witness traditional dance performances, making<br />

this adventure not only physically stimulating but also culturally<br />

enriching.<br />

Night Paddle with Bioluminescent Kayaking: Experience the<br />

magic of Rarotonga's waters in a unique way by embarking on<br />

a night paddle with bioluminescent kayaking. As darkness falls,<br />

the water comes alive with bioluminescent organisms, creating a<br />

mesmerizing glow around your kayak. This enchanting experience<br />

provides a magical twist to your adventure and showcases the<br />

natural wonders of the Cook Islands.<br />

In conclusion, Rarotonga is a haven for adventure enthusiasts<br />

seeking an immersive experience in a tropical paradise. Whether<br />

you choose to explore the island by foot, dive into its vibrant<br />

underwater world, or embark on a cultural bike tour, Rarotonga<br />

promises a perfect blend of adrenaline-pumping activities<br />

and natural beauty. Make your next vacation unforgettable by<br />

embracing the spirit of adventure on this idyllic<br />


Inspirational read<br />

Taking on the Kepler Challenge<br />

60km at 60 years<br />

Words by Nick Laurie<br />

January 2023, and I am having a look<br />

at my goals for the year. Looming over<br />

the year is the fact that I will turn 60 in<br />

December and I decide that I need to<br />

do something really memorable- for my<br />

50th I hand selected a group of mates<br />

and we went to Fiji for the weekend in an<br />

effort to recreate the Hangover movie.<br />

Since then, a heart attack and a different<br />

approach to alcohol meant that this<br />

would be a different style of celebration.<br />

I had one friend who was going to run<br />

around Lake Pupuke with a few of his<br />

mates until he had done 60 Kilometres.<br />

I thought that something like that<br />

would be how I would see in 60. I am<br />

a Chiropractor and spend my days<br />

encouraging people to get greater and<br />

what could be more inspirational than<br />

travelling down to the South Island and<br />

attempt to tackle a 60k race over one<br />

of New Zealand’s great walks. I had<br />

recently run the track in a day and was<br />

eager to see what it would be like racing<br />

the course rather than stopping for lunch<br />

and to take photos of the odd Weka.<br />

I set up my calendar for events that I<br />

would enter that would get me set up<br />

and ready to race the Kepler Challenge.<br />

This would be the best way for me<br />

to chunk this big goal down so that<br />

instead of being daunted by a massive<br />

task I could just tick off race after race<br />

that would have me ready. Each race<br />

became a commitment, and I could just<br />

focus on the short step ahead rather<br />

than a 60k nightmare. I also needed<br />

to learn how to transition myself from<br />

predominately a road runner to a trail<br />

guy. I stared watching You Tube videos<br />

of ultra-running and tried to get as many<br />

tips as I could.<br />

The first step was to buy the gear. I<br />

needed to get some hard wearing,<br />

grippy, but comfortable trail shoes. If<br />

you dare ask in a trail runners chat<br />

group what shoes you should wear be<br />

prepared for lots of advice. The shoe that<br />

received the most recommendations was<br />

the HOKA speed goat, closely followed<br />

by a Solomon. I have always worn the<br />

ASICs brand and chose their trail shoe<br />

the Trabucco. The 3 key things that I<br />

needed was a firm, grippy sole, fast<br />

draining and a wide fit. The ASICs did<br />

the trick.<br />

I needed a pair of shorts that had heaps<br />

of pockets to carry gels, drinking cup and<br />

toilet paper. Nike have a great trail short<br />

that suited me here. I also needed a vest<br />

to carry water bottles, or a bladder and<br />

the compulsory emergency gear. I had<br />

a Camel Bak with plenty of pockets that<br />

had a 2-litre bladder if I needed to go<br />

long in my training..<br />

I started to build up my road miles and<br />

set up a consistent plan for my week.<br />

Tuesday was a steady one hour run<br />

bush or road, Thursday was either<br />

hill repeats or 1k repeats, Saturday or<br />

Sunday was a long slow run, trail or<br />

road, and Monday was a 5k recovery<br />

jog. I varied the quantities with the<br />

Thursday and the weekend sessions<br />

depending on what I needed to be ready<br />

for or what I needed to recover from. I<br />

did this consistently for the 11 months<br />

leading up to the race.<br />

The first race was the Coastal Challenge<br />

which is a race on Auckland’s North<br />

Shore beaches where you rock hop,<br />

swim, beach run and a little 1k road<br />

run to finish 33k of fun! My learnings<br />

from this race were 1) Start slow and<br />

finish slower, 2) Good trail shoes drain,<br />

3) Don’t wear cotton socks and have a<br />

nutrition plan.<br />

I really did enjoy this race but it was my<br />

first little introduction to a place called<br />

the pain-cave that ultra-runners learn to<br />

" I needed to learn how<br />

to transition myself from<br />

predominately a road<br />

runner to a trail guy.<br />

I stared watching You<br />

Tube videos of ultrarunning<br />

and tried to get<br />

as many tips as I could."<br />

deal with. I got to a point where I had a<br />

real mental battle to just keep going and<br />

not walk. I perfected the slow shuffle and<br />

worked out ways to distract myself from<br />

thoughts of giving up.<br />

If I thought that I had mastered dealing<br />

with the pain cave, then the next race<br />

on my list took it to a whole new level.<br />

I had been talked into entering a 21k<br />

race called the Wild Kiwi which is part<br />

of a multi-sport event held up near the<br />

Whangarei heads. My learnings here<br />

were that races can be lost on the<br />

downhill, read the elevation - those<br />

numbers predict pain and electrolytes<br />

are needed once you push past the 2<br />

hour mark.<br />

This race involved 3 massive stair/hill<br />

climbs and sharp descents. I should<br />

have known something was up when the<br />

guy that I was running with at the start,<br />

who is an accomplished runner, said<br />

that he expected to be out for 3 hours! I<br />

thought that he must be wrong or that he<br />

was going to have a nap or something.<br />

At one stage I can remember getting<br />

quite delirious and getting a piece of<br />

tea-tree to use as a walking stick. I also<br />

took a wrong turn and realised this when<br />

confronted with a sheer cliff face, that I<br />

know the masochistic race organisers<br />

wouldn’t have wanted us hurtling to our<br />

deaths.<br />

Nick Laurie, all smiles at the start of the Kepler Challenge<br />


Smiles are replaced with grim determination<br />

I had just spent a gruelling climb trying to<br />

get well ahead of a guy that I wanted to<br />

beat. My slight detour ate into these gains<br />

as did my slow descent down the steps<br />

trying to preserve my thighs. I powered<br />

down some electrolyte drink at the last aid<br />

station which started a crampathon as my<br />

body cried out for more. Driving back to<br />

Auckland with cramps was not enjoyable.<br />

There was, however, a weird sense of<br />

accomplishment and I was ready for the<br />

next events on my schedule.<br />

My plan over the winter months was to<br />

enter the X-terra trail series and every 4<br />

or 5 weeks, run their Super Long race.<br />

The hard part of this plan was getting my<br />

entries in on time because coming out of<br />

the restricted racing over the last 2 years<br />

the series kept selling out. I did manage<br />

some of their events and when I did miss<br />

an event I was sure to hit the local trails for<br />

3-4 hour runs. I used this time to get my<br />

fuelling right and find out what my stomach<br />

would tolerate. I made a discovery here<br />

that I could not handle any electrolyte<br />

drinks that had sugar in them. I have the<br />

sugary drink and crave more of a sugar<br />

hit and get an inflamed knee and hip. This<br />

was a valuable lesson that I did take to<br />

race day. The You Tube videos had said<br />

that the lessons that you learn during<br />

training will really help and every run is a<br />

learning experience.<br />

The next phase of the plan was to start<br />

going long, 4 hours plus on my weekend<br />

runs, with 2 big events before the main<br />

one. I prepped myself for the North Shore<br />

Marathon and set a goal of finishing in<br />

under 4 hours. The weekend before I ran<br />

half of the course in 1h 53 so I was pretty<br />

confident that I could get in under 4 hours.<br />

This was supposed to be relatively easy<br />

and I completed the first half as I had<br />

trained with plenty of time to spare. I did<br />

start to tie up a little as most of my running<br />

was now off road and the pavement was a<br />

bit tough on the legs.<br />

"It was a frustrating<br />

time running home<br />

with people that I knew<br />

tooting and waving as<br />

they drove past - they<br />

didn’t know that my<br />

pained looking wave was<br />

a cry for help!"<br />

I would have nicely achieved the 4 hour<br />

goal if it hadn’t been for an unscheduled<br />

toilet stop (yes a shitcident). I didn’t<br />

stomach a gel too well and it created a<br />

chain reaction leading to my 4h 2 min<br />

finishing time. To top things off I dropped<br />

my car keys into the engine well and<br />

couldn’t retrieve them so had to run<br />

another 6 kilometres home. An accidental<br />

Ultra. It was a frustrating time running<br />

home with people that I knew tooting and<br />

waving as they drove past - they didn’t<br />

know that my pained looking wave was a<br />

cry for help! The positives were that I had<br />

learned to be careful with my fuel and that<br />

I could run close to 50k.<br />

Okay, so I had done all of my base work<br />

and it was time to test it out at the Taupo<br />

Ultra 50k. I got some advice from James<br />

Kuegler, running coach extraordinaire, to<br />

take it easy at the start and hold back at<br />

least until the 30k mark.<br />

I stood at the start line feeling frikken<br />

awesome. I had never trained so hard for<br />

an event and just wanted to unleash my<br />

hard work on the course. I was too excited<br />

and started with a fairly pacey group<br />

following them along the single-track trails<br />

that mostly descended into Kinloch. I got to<br />

22k and still felt pretty good, but the pacey<br />

downhill had taken its toll and I couldn’t<br />

get my heartrate down. I got into Kinloch<br />

for the aid station at halfway, gave Sarah<br />

a sweaty kiss, and set out on the climbing<br />

part of the course. It was hard to keep a<br />

rhythm going due to the cycle trail table top<br />

things and the going got a lot steeper.<br />

At 30k I became pretty dejected as I felt<br />

my 5 hour goal slipping away from my<br />

grasp. The big lesson here was that I<br />

shouldn’t have attached a time to feeling<br />

good because this really got to me<br />

mentally and I slowed to a walk when I still<br />

feel that there was something in the tank.<br />

I had also got the electrolyte side of things<br />

wrong and had just added some salts to<br />

my water. This didn’t work as I didn’t have<br />

enough and my body started to break<br />

down. At the 2nd to last aid station, I tried<br />

eating chips peanut butter sandwiches<br />

and even drank some flat coke. My legs<br />

instantly cramped right up.<br />

The 35k mark passed and the wheels<br />

really fell off. I was feeling really<br />

lightheaded and tried to figure out what<br />

they would do if I had a heart attack. I even<br />

had thoughts of throwing myself at a tree<br />

or off a cliff. A 10-year-old boy who was<br />

running the 24k with his Dad (impressive)<br />

passed me about 5 times as I battled<br />

with cramp. I sat on the side of the trail in<br />

despair until a fellow runner came past and<br />

offered me some pickle juice. This turned<br />

out to be a panacea for the cramp and I<br />

could resume a rhythm and put a stop to<br />

the stream of runners passing me.<br />

I flew past the 10-year-old and finished<br />

in 6h 9 minutes. Only an hour 9 over my<br />

goal. I finished 5th in my age group and<br />

would have won the next age up if I was 8<br />

weeks older. It was time to get in a couple<br />

more long runs and then take all these<br />

learnings to the start line of the Kepler<br />

Challenge.<br />

The next 2 big training sessions were<br />

pretty epic efforts. My friend and fellow<br />

Kepler competitor and I decide to ferry<br />

over to Rangitoto Island and run around<br />

until the last ferry came 6 hours later. This<br />

proved a great way to test out my fuelling<br />

strategy of an electrolyte capsule and a gel<br />

every hour with 2 cliff bars for solid food.<br />

We had a beautiful day, perhaps a little<br />

sunny to circumnavigate Motutapu and<br />

Rangitoto Islands.<br />

The other test was to run keeping my heart<br />

rate nice and low. I found that I could keep<br />

going for hours if I stayed under 145 beats<br />

per minute. This meant walking up steep<br />

hills, which is very foreign to a road runner,<br />

but it really did the trick. I planned to do<br />

this in the first 20k of the Kepler so it was<br />

good to try it out. We ran for 4 hours 45<br />

and finished with a swim back at the wharf<br />

much to the pleasure of a group of tourists<br />

who wondered who these 2 madmen were.<br />

"The other test was to run<br />

keeping my heart rate nice<br />

and low. I found that I could<br />

keep going for hours if I<br />

stayed under 145 beats per<br />

minute. This meant walking<br />

up steep hills, which is very<br />

foreign to a road runner, but<br />

it really did the trick."<br />

The next weekend I set out on a challenge<br />

that I had attempted to complete but never<br />

finished over the last 2 summers. I had<br />

the lofty goal of running 40 kilometres into<br />

the city and then ubering home. The last 2<br />

times the heat had got me and I had only<br />

made it to halfway. This was a chance to<br />

again practice the fuelling strategy and<br />

also the pacing by heartrate.<br />

My previous base work proved to be<br />

adequate but I did have some knee issues<br />

at about 35k that I put down to not being<br />

used to concrete footpaths. I conquered<br />

the beast and ran straight to McDonalds<br />

for a cheeseburger and a large Fanta.<br />

Kepler Challenge Runners treated to surprise outdoor supermarket aisle mid-race thanks to FreshChoice.<br />

That was the nicest Fanta in my life! I was<br />

feeling chuffed with myself and rested well<br />

after that one. I went to a mate’s birthday<br />

party that evening but could only last until<br />

8:30pm.<br />

I had made the decision from 6 weeks out<br />

to not touch any alcohol, chocolate (that I<br />

eat too much) and coffee until after the big<br />

run. This gave me a bit more resolve, as<br />

every time I abstained it reminded me of<br />

the work and prep that I had done to get to<br />

this point.<br />

I was excited and started to get a bit<br />

carried away with myself. I remember that<br />

in the following weekend after my 40k city<br />

run that I intended to run through a few of<br />

the suburban trails on Auckland’s North<br />

Shore and complete a 5 hour effort. My<br />

body had other ideas.<br />

We live in a hilly coastal suburb and at the<br />

first hill I suddenly became lightheaded<br />

and nearly fainted. I either needed rest or<br />

needed to stop completely and abandon<br />

the goal.<br />

Given my past heart issues I thought that<br />

this was it and I had over done it and<br />

would need to retire. I throttled the training<br />

right back paying attention to the Heart<br />

Rate Variability stats on my Garmin. The<br />

numbers told the story and as soon as I<br />

got back into my normal range I was able<br />

to run with some effort again. I decided<br />

to do 2 more weekends with 2 hour runs,<br />

which at this stage was easy and then just<br />

do smaller runs to settle the nerves until<br />

the big day. This got me to the start line<br />

niggle free and fresh. I was set.<br />


Left: My long-term patient,Leslie was a great pacer knowing just to keep me distracted from my pain cave and keeping me going.<br />

Middle: I have a video of me rounding the last corner and I remember at the time thinking that I was steaming along. The video tells a different story.<br />

Right: A well earned hug from wife Sarah<br />

Race day came with a 6am start. To get a<br />

medal you must finish before the course<br />

sweeper in under 12 hours. I got up at<br />

4:30 and had a relatively normal breakfast<br />

of cereal and a Frittata. I avoided Coffee<br />

as it usually created some bowel action for<br />

me that I didn’t want for the next 10 hours<br />

or so. Sarah and Katie drove us to the<br />

control gates at Te Anau for the nervous<br />

start. I had intended to have a poo at the<br />

last minute and then that should do me for<br />

the day. Much to my horror there weren’t<br />

a lot of porta loos and I had to nervously<br />

queue thinking that I may have to start<br />

late. The guy in front of me was prepared<br />

and had extra paper which he shared<br />

with me, otherwise it would have been a<br />

horrific experience. I got to the line in time<br />

and seeded myself in the 8-hour group.<br />

The start seeding was important because<br />

you were very quickly into single track<br />

which meant that you were either in the<br />

way or held up by other runners. I had my<br />

plan; my pace and my fuelling all dialled<br />

in. I didn’t make the Taupo error and head<br />

off too fast, pacing myself perfectly on<br />

the first flat 5k. The next 5k was straight<br />

up and with my pacing strategy based on<br />

heart rate I had to do a lot of fast walking.<br />

At the 11k point we came up out of the<br />

tree line and headed towards Luxmore<br />

Hut and the 2nd aid station. The views<br />

were out of this world, so much so that<br />

there were many people stopping to take<br />

photos. I remember the comment of a guy<br />

who hadn’t been past the hut before that<br />

“oh well that’s all the climbing done”. He<br />

was so wrong.<br />

The Luxmore aid station was where you<br />

had to do a compulsory safety gear check<br />

in before the alpine section. We had a<br />

beautiful day but it did turn nasty for some<br />

of the tailenders with some showers<br />

coming through and a couple of people<br />

suffering hypothermia. It was surreal<br />

running along a ridge above the clouds.<br />

The highlight of this aid station was the<br />

shots of Tequila that were being offered. I<br />

didn’t partake but a huge roar of ‘that’s the<br />

spirit’ was heard whenever anyone did.<br />

From Luxmore Hut we ran up along a<br />

schist covered track to forest burn shelter<br />

at 18k and some more sustenance. I had<br />

decided to run with 1 litre of water in my<br />

camel pak and take a cup of water and<br />

perhaps a cliff bar at each aid station. I<br />

took an electrolyte capsule and a gel every<br />

hour. The volunteers at each of the aid<br />

stations were bloody phenomenal dressing<br />

up as nuns, nurses, road workers, cheer<br />

leaders and elves (from memory).<br />

After Forest Burn we were still mostly<br />

climbing until the 22k mark and Hanging<br />

Valley shelter. Then the steep descent<br />

began and my undoing.<br />

" I summoned my rugby<br />

skills and dropped my<br />

shoulder absorbing some of<br />

the impact and narrowly<br />

avoiding a small branch<br />

going into my face. It hit<br />

me just behind the ear. I lay<br />

there for a minute, thinking<br />

oh well at least I’ll get a<br />

chopper ride."<br />

At the 24k mark we headed down about<br />

74 switchback corners. The going was<br />

rooty or rocky and steep. My plan was to<br />

unleash the beast on this bit as normally<br />

I could downhill well. On about the 4th<br />

corner my toe hit a root and I went straight<br />

over face first into a sawn tree stump. It all<br />

happened in such slow motion and I could<br />

see that this wasn’t going to end well. I<br />

summoned my rugby skills and dropped<br />

my shoulder absorbing some of the impact<br />

and narrowly avoiding a small branch<br />

going into my face. It hit me just behind<br />

the ear. I lay there for a minute, thinking<br />

oh well at least I’ll get a chopper ride.<br />

I stood up and took stock and once I got<br />

over being winded I realised that I only had<br />

a bit of a bruised head and a bit of blood<br />

trickling down behind my rear. No chopper<br />

for me. My confidence down, the remaining<br />

4k of downhill was shot and I’m sure that at<br />

this stage most of the field would have run<br />

past me, checking that I was OK and telling<br />

me how awesome I looked(liars). The best<br />

sound that I have ever heard was a big bell<br />

that one of the volunteers at Iris Burn was<br />

ringing letting you know that the hellish<br />

descent was over.<br />

This was where the race now began. It<br />

was a bush covered track that led out of<br />

the valley to the Rocky Point shelter at<br />

about 37k. This is where I mentally lost<br />

it. Physically I was bruised in the head<br />

but otherwise OK. Mentally I was beat. I<br />

started to search for my why. Why am I<br />

doing this? Who cares how fast that I go?<br />

The sweeper is not going to catch me<br />

even if I walk. So, I walked even on some<br />

of the flats. I started to really chunk it<br />

down to corners and trees ahead. I rallied<br />

a little towards Iris Burn at 42k and had to<br />

dig deep.<br />

I had arranged for one of my long-term<br />

patients, Lesley Turner Hall, who is a bit of<br />

an icon in the trail running circuit, to meet<br />

me at Rainbow Reach and pace/push/<br />

distract me for the last 10 kilometres. This<br />

is one reason why I had to keep going.<br />

I had her and Sarah waiting for me, and<br />

I didn’t want to let them down. From the<br />

45k mark I gave myself a bit of a slap and<br />

started to get the shuffle going.<br />

I was pretty emotional reaching Rainbow<br />

Reach and gave Sarah a kiss and a<br />

hug and set off with Leslie for the last<br />

10k. I managed to somewhat pull things<br />

together by about the 55k mark and got<br />

some faster shuffles together. I have a<br />

video of me rounding the last corner and<br />

I remember at the time thinking that I was<br />

steaming along. The video tells a different<br />

story. How could anyone move that slow<br />

and call it running? Leslie was a great<br />

pacer knowing just to keep me distracted<br />

from my pain cave and keeping me going.<br />

This was a great help.<br />

The finish almost seemed an anticlimax.<br />

9h16min and from that minute my brain<br />

switched to what is next and how I can go<br />

better. I was reminded by Sarah that not<br />

many 60-year-olds can run 6k let alone<br />

60k and to have some gratitude and live in<br />

the moment. The after-race beer, dip in the<br />

Lake and the nice hot bath were epic.<br />

What an event!<br />



Tuvalu<br />


x<br />

Coral-Clinging<br />

& Climate-Changing<br />

In the Deep Blue Womb of Polynesia<br />

Words and images by Michael H. Kew<br />

Long voluptuous late-day shadows. Sputtery<br />

motorbikes, cackly kids, idle unamused adults. There is<br />

no hurry. Nothing pressing, nowhere to go. Unless they<br />

work in a fusi (shop) or get handicrafty, most Tuvaluans<br />

do little because there is little to do.<br />

And yet Funafuti Atoll's main coral road is abustle.<br />

We seek refreshment. In a tight black “Beautiful Since<br />

1992” T-shirt, her hair yanked into a bulbous brown bun,<br />

Katalaina is the young doe-eyed clerk at Tefota Mini-Mart.<br />

Outside, crude art on the red-and-blue shipping container<br />

hawks Tefota Liquor Express and its “amazing beer<br />

garden.” A green taro leaf-shaped arrow points the way.<br />

But the amazing place isn’t open.<br />

Illegally (so she claims), Katalaina sells me a sixer of<br />

Victoria Bitter. Daniel, Nico, and I each crack a can. Then<br />

another. Seeing this, Katalaina demands we file into the<br />

shaded area behind her fusi.<br />

“Might we get arrested?” I ask.<br />

She laughs. “Probably. The police here don’t have much<br />

to do except arrest guys who are fighting or are drunk on<br />

the street.”<br />

“These are our first beers today. We’re not drunk.”<br />

“Not yet,” Nico says beneath his sly Canuck smirk.<br />

“Did you guys come to see our islands sinking?” she asks.<br />

“Tuvalu is sinking?” I ask.<br />

“Isn’t that why you came?”<br />

“No,” Daniel interjects softly. He’s reading the label on his<br />

beer can. “We’ve come to surf.”<br />

“Surf?” Her brown eyes pop like beautiful flowers yawning<br />

into the hot orange shimmer of late Sun.<br />

“You mean standing on the waves?” She laughs again,<br />

mockingly. “I have seen some guy with surfing gears and<br />

heard about surfing in Tuvalu but have not actually seen<br />

anybody surfing.”<br />

Tuvalu is one of Earth’s least-visited countries,<br />

pre-Covid receiving perhaps 2,000 tourists per<br />

year. It is Earth’s fourth-smallest country—nine<br />

atolls totalling less than 10 square miles of<br />

land for 11,000 people, all of them fanned<br />

across 500,000 square miles of brilliant blue.<br />

Katalaina says foreigners come either because<br />

“they want to see this place before it sinks into<br />

the sea” or because they are mere “country<br />

collectors”—people who aim to visit all 197<br />

of Earth’s terrestrial nations. Other visitors<br />

are aid workers, business consultants, and<br />

government hacks. People rarely choose to<br />

visit Tuvalu for a holiday, she claims. Why<br />

would they? Resource-poor atolls have scant<br />

world value per what ex-Prime Minister Toaripi<br />

Lauti once declared, that “all Tuvalu has to<br />

offer is Sun and a piece of the Pacific.”<br />

Katalaina’s “amazing beer garden” is a pair of<br />

scuffed green tables on gravel under a rusty<br />

metal roof, all of it surrounded by a chain-link<br />

fence topped with concertina wire. There’s a<br />

warped plywood bar below a big flat-screen<br />

showing an episode of Glee.<br />

Katalaina looks weary. Since standing behind<br />

the bar, her once-bright demeanor has<br />

dimmed. She glares at us. We are drinking<br />

more beer. Blathering. Intoxicating. Not<br />

surfing. Way over there, on the opposite rib of<br />

her galactic lagoon, the waves are bad. The<br />

swell is too small. Rivers of wind. Always too<br />

windy. The tide is too low. Always too low.<br />

“We missed it by a few thousand years,”<br />

Daniel says after another deep beer burp.<br />

An intelligent observer of life and waves, his<br />

face is flexed, his mind mossy. His brown<br />

forearms rest on the table. Glee has lost<br />

him. He’s staring at his green can. He’s<br />

thinking about the weird left-hander he surfed<br />

yesterday.<br />

“You won’t,” I say, “unless you get into a boat with us and<br />

go to the other side of your huge lagoon. May we please<br />

buy another six-pack?”<br />

Funafuti Atoll, 0.9 square mile of land amongst 60 million square miles of Pacific Ocean

Jones and Manos, early for happy hour.<br />

For every surfer in the world who isn’t here, Daniel, can<br />

you please describe this wave?<br />

that carbon discharge from the world’s superpowers was<br />

“a slow and insidious form of terrorism against us.”<br />

"Okay." Clears his throat. "Three barrels and three turns on<br />

a quick, punchy, warmwater left only to be discombobulated<br />

in the end by wind chop and coral heads. When the reef<br />

wasn’t quite as high, we could’ve surfed that spot on all<br />

tides. It could’ve been one of the funnest lefts ever when<br />

Funafuti was still a sinking volcano.”<br />

Sinking. That word again. Twelve thousand feet from the<br />

ocean floor, Funafuti is the coralline rim of an oblique<br />

conical submarine volcano. In the 1990s Tuvaluan leaders<br />

assured the world that, due to climate change, within a<br />

few decades Tuvalu would vanish—an actual Atlantis. In<br />

2001 I bought a heartbreakingly gorgeous Lonely Planet<br />

photo book titled Time & Tide that dealt exclusively with<br />

climate change and its future ills for the atolls.<br />

In 2002 Tuvaluan leaders threatened to sue the First<br />

World for its high emissions of carbon dioxide, methane,<br />

chlorofluorocarbons, and nitrous oxide that in the past 60<br />

or so years combined to heat Earth’s atmosphere (the<br />

“greenhouse effect”) which then caused poles to melt and<br />

oceans to rise, which presumably will swamp low landforms<br />

like atolls. (Since the second Industrial Revolution,<br />

anthropogenic activity has increased Earth’s atmospheric<br />

carbon dioxide concentration by more than a third.)<br />

Among media coverage worldwide, Outside’s Mark<br />

Levine, in a long 2002 piece titled “Tuvalu Toodle-oo,”<br />

pointedly blamed his own readers:<br />

“The serene South Pacific archipelago of Tuvalu wants<br />

the world to know it will soon be the first nation to sink<br />

beneath the rising waters of global warming—an early<br />

warning of biblical inundations to come. And guess<br />

what? It’s your fault.”<br />

Today there are scientists who feel Tuvalu’s leaders are<br />

opportunists exploiting a possibly fact-skewed reality and<br />

insisting that their people flee Tuvalu for, ironically, the<br />

West's pollutive ways. Prime Minister Saufatu Sapo’aga<br />

reaffirmed Levine’s premise, telling the United Nations<br />

Certainly no climate change-denier, Kennedy Warne is<br />

the co-founder of New Zealand Geographic, where he<br />

published “Tuvalu Rising.” Based on comprehensive<br />

scientific input, this March 2018 piece shocked me and<br />

debunked Sapo’aga and Levine and the “dozens, if not<br />

hundreds, of similar stories, broadcasts, films, and books<br />

(that) have appeared since then, almost all with doomladen<br />

titles and headlines”:<br />

Perhaps the most damaging effect of the drowningislands<br />

rhetoric is that it has conditioned atoll islanders<br />

to think of themselves as climate victims doomed to<br />

lose their islands to rising seas, and, in the worst-case<br />

scenario, to become stateless refugees. Recognition<br />

that their land will not disappear gives island dwellers<br />

hope and incentive to draw on their traditional traits<br />

of resilience, adaptability, and skill in continuing to<br />

inhabit the islands they call home. It should also<br />

motivate governments and aid agencies to focus less<br />

on engineering interventions and more on a strategic<br />

approach to multi-atoll development.<br />

Warne’s words were buttressed by information in<br />

February 2018’s edition of Nature Communications,<br />

a peer-reviewed bimonthly scientific journal. At the<br />

University of Auckland, with colleagues in Fiji and<br />

Australia, coastal geomorphologists Susan Owen,<br />

Paul Kench, and Murray Ford optimistically asserted<br />

that Tuvalu was perhaps not so ill-fated. “The common<br />

narrative is that these atolls are ‘sinking,’” Ford told me<br />

by email. “They are not sinking. As sea levels rise, the<br />

atolls may drown if they sit there passively as if they<br />

were in a bathtub. But they’re not. There is more land in<br />

Tuvalu now than there was in the mid-20th century.”<br />

Citing data gleaned since 1971, when such surveys<br />

began, Warne noted the South Pacific’s rise annually<br />

averaged 3.90±0.4 millimeters, twice the global mean,<br />

likely due to Antarctic adjacency. However, despite<br />

an amassed sea-level rise of about 15 centimeters<br />

(six inches), specific analyses of Tuvalu revealed the<br />

Funafuti faces<br />

Jones at a virgin reef pass far from the maddening crowd.<br />

place wasn’t sinking nor shrinking. Perhaps counterintuitively to us,<br />

Tuvalu was growing—by 183 acres, to be exact. “The islands are able to<br />

increase in size because they are composed of the broken-up remains<br />

of coral and other organisms that secrete calcium carbonate (e.g. shells,<br />

foraminifera),” Kench told me, also by email. “As long as the reef is<br />

producing sediment, waves can transport it to an island. In the case of<br />

Tuvalu, major storm events rip up coral, etc., and dump it on the atolls.”<br />

With data from aerial photos compiled in that four-decade timeframe, the<br />

UofA trio measured the shorelines across 19,403 transects of Tuvalu’s<br />

mostly-undeveloped islands and islets. (“Undeveloped” meant lack of<br />

concrete. Natural oceanic landforms were naturally dynamic, over time<br />

shifting with natural winds, currents, and swells. And, yes, rises in sea<br />

level.) All of Tuvalu’s landforms showed slight change. Most had grown;<br />

one had more than doubled in size.<br />


“The hard limestone structure built by corals over<br />

thousands to millions of years doesn’t really change<br />

over these short timeframes,” Ford said. “On top of that<br />

foundation is the living reef which always wants to grow to<br />

sea level—lowest tide level, actually—so it may keep up<br />

with sea-level rise providing that the reef remains healthy,<br />

which remains a significant unknown. Atop it all are the<br />

atolls. These have been built by the breakdown of the reef<br />

and the reef organisms in the last 3,000 years.”<br />

Shrinkage was most pronounced on the sand cays along<br />

Tuvalu’s leeward coast which on Funafuti is where we<br />

found surf. One cay had recently vanished. Expansion<br />

was greatest in the medium-to-large-sized islets along<br />

the atolls’ windward edge where storm surges, high tides,<br />

and constant wave action had heaved sediment onto reef<br />

platforms. This, the scientists believed, has and will offset<br />

erosion perhaps indefinitely. “In the coming decades we<br />

expect there to be a small increase in water depths across<br />

the reef,” Kench said. “This will increase shoreline wave<br />

height, which can deliver material to island surfaces. We<br />

expect islands to change in size and position on reef<br />

surfaces and to also maintain their size due to sediment<br />

delivery. Problems may arise if reefs start to become less<br />

productive and new sediment is not generated.”<br />

“There may be a difference in the water depth over the<br />

reef in the next 20 years,” Ford said. “Depending on the<br />

particular scenario we’re looking at, a 20-centimeterhigher<br />

sea level (is possible by) 2040. A healthy reef may<br />

respond by growing vertically, potentially offsetting some<br />

of this sea-level rise. If the reef dies, there’s unlikely to<br />

be any vertical reef growth to offset sea-level rise. In fact,<br />

some of the reef structure may be broken down.”<br />

Might this improve the waves? Should surfers care?<br />

Are you going to Tuvalu?<br />

In September 2019, just after Funafuti’s election, Karima<br />

Bennouneis, the non-surfing UN Special Rapporteur in<br />

the field of cultural rights, visited Tuvalu “to learn how<br />

Tuvalu’s new government would combat discrimination.<br />

I will also assess policies designed to mitigate the grave<br />

threat climate change poses to the culture and cultural<br />

heritage of Tuvalu, and how culture is and can be used to<br />

respond to the existential challenges resulting from climate<br />

change.”<br />

Overall climate change is most certainly real, yes, as real<br />

as Tuvalu’s rickety reefs. Only a fool would deny either.<br />

It’s all in our faces. Back here on Funafuti’s windward<br />

side, Nico’s is Sun-red. He’s just downed another beer.<br />

Nibbling her fingernails, Katalaina watches us. Perhaps<br />

she is pondering climate change and is hoping we too will<br />

disappear.<br />

Another six-pack?<br />

Yesterday Nico duckdove onto a large coral head,<br />

fracturing the pointed nose of his skinny thruster. He was<br />

pushed back then dry-docked, where he stood bravely<br />

before a loud wall of white. An irksome session with few<br />

moments of zen. Rogue side-wedges from the north were<br />

a hazard and hassle.<br />

My right palm is cold and wet from another can of Victoria<br />

Bitter. My mouth tastes metallic. VB reminds me of Pabst<br />

Blue Ribbon. I begin to think VB is not great. Nico likes it. I<br />

ask him to recap his Tuvalu surf experience.<br />

“Bit of a mindfuck. But with deeper reefs and better swell<br />

exposure, this place might be heaven.”<br />

Heaven?<br />

We leave tomorrow.<br />

@michael.kew | www.michaelkew.com<br />

North Atlantic meets South Pacific. Manos eyes a foreign waterfall.<br />

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Vangirl Life<br />

Interview with Lydia Lumina<br />

Instagram connects a lot of people of like mind. Over<br />

the last year, we have been keeping an eye on Lydia at<br />

@lydialumina. She broke the mould to create her own<br />

van fit-out and started her van life travels – we caught<br />

up with her and asked a few questions.<br />

Tell us a little bit about yourself?<br />

I’m Lydia, 27 years old, born and raised in the east of<br />

Germany. I studied interior design, and currently, I’m<br />

working as a social media manager. Since March 2023,<br />

I have lived full-time in my van "Herbie", which I bought<br />

in July 2020. In the beginning, I used him just for short<br />

trips during summer, and later, I converted him into a<br />

fully equipped campervan, and now he has become my<br />

home.<br />

What motivated you to consider building her own<br />

campervan?<br />

I always loved to travel. After a few years of<br />

backpacking, hitchhiking, hostels, and couch surfing I<br />

realized I miss having privacy and a space for myself<br />

during traveling. So, the idea of a campervan was born.<br />

A room with a view<br />

Do you have a passion for DIY projects and handson<br />

construction?<br />

Yes, I love to do things myself with my hands.<br />

Especially when I think it’s too difficult to do it. I like the<br />

challenge. It’s also one reason why I chose to study<br />

interior design, it’s a really hands-on kind of study with<br />

a lot of building involved. And even as a child, I built<br />

caves out of branches in the forest.<br />

Is cost savings a significant factor in your decision<br />

to build your own campervan?<br />

It was a significant factor because when I bought the<br />

van I was still a student and didn’t have much money at<br />

that time.<br />

Did you want a customised living space that suits<br />

your unique preferences?<br />

Yes. For me, it was important to have space in my van<br />

so that I didn’t feel narrow. I can stand upright and there<br />

is even space on the floor for a little dance.<br />





Would you make another van?<br />

Right now I’m really happy with my van Herbie.<br />

But I can imagine myself in the future building<br />

another van. Also because I really enjoy the<br />

building process.<br />

If so what changes would you make?<br />

If I would get another van I think I would buy a<br />

van with four wheel drive so I would have even<br />

more freedom to go more hidden places.<br />

" For me, it was important to have space in my van so<br />

that I didn’t feel narrow. I can stand upright and there<br />

is even space on the floor for a little dance."<br />

Did you want to have more control over<br />

the materials and components used in<br />

the conversion?<br />

Totally! I love wood and from the<br />

beginning I knew I want to use it for the<br />

main part of my campervan. It radiates<br />

so much warmth and brings cosiness. I’m<br />

not fond of these classic motorhomes with<br />

plastic cladding at all.<br />

Was the campervan construction<br />

process a steep learning curve – did<br />

you get help?<br />

I learned a lot during the building process.<br />

I did everything myself except some<br />

welding work that had to be done on the<br />

car body, which my father helped me<br />

with. For everything else, I got help from<br />

the internet. I watched a lot of YouTube<br />

videos and read a lot about how to build a<br />

campervan. The electricity was the part I<br />

was most nervous about because I didn’t<br />

really have much knowledge about it. But<br />

even after a lot of research, it wasn’t a<br />

problem to do it myself. And I’m really glad<br />

I did it myself because now if something<br />

breaks during traveling, I can repair it<br />

myself.<br />

Where you drawn to the idea of a<br />

minimalist and simplified lifestyle on<br />

the road?<br />

I try to live as sustainable as possible and<br />

minimalism is part of it. And it actually<br />

feels like freedom to me to own little.<br />

That’s one thing I really appreciate about<br />

vanlife. I don't have the opportunity to buy<br />

unnecessary things because I don't have<br />

space for them. So I always think twice<br />

before buying something and it also saves<br />

a lot of money.<br />

Where you inspired by stories or<br />

experiences of others who have<br />

successfully built their campervans?<br />

Yes I was totally influenced. Since years<br />

I follow a lot of vanlife accounts on<br />

Instagram and YouTube.<br />

What was the hardest task?<br />

I would say the hardest part was to<br />

start the build and to overcome my own<br />

insecurity and fear of failure. But once I<br />

started there was no turning back.<br />

Also one of the first steps was to cut holes<br />

in the vehicle for the windows. That was<br />

for sure one of the scariest parts.<br />

Any advice for anyone thinking about build<br />

their own van?<br />

If you want to build your own van. I would<br />

recommend renting a campervan for a few<br />

weeks and travelling with it. That will give you<br />

an idea of what is really important to you. For<br />

example, if you need a shower in the van or an<br />

extra room for the toilet.<br />

How can people follow your adventures?<br />

I share some impressions of my daily life on my<br />

Instagram account @lydialumina.<br />

" I can choose where I want to live and change it whenever I want. I can stay directly<br />

at the beach and fall asleep with the sound of the ocean waves or live somewhere in the<br />

mountains with the nicest views."<br />


Crafting memories,<br />

one stay at a time.<br />

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Is there a particular design aesthetic or<br />

style you envision for your campervan?<br />

When I started I definitely had a mood<br />

board in my head how I wanted the van<br />

to look like. I like natural design. That's<br />

why I mainly worked with unpainted wood.<br />

There are a few dark green accents and I<br />

covered the door frames of my cupboards<br />

with jute fabric. And all the little details like<br />

sink, door handles and the faucets are<br />

all black, it was important to me (and my<br />

inner interior designer) that they all match.<br />

So it ended up being a clean looking<br />

matching design with the coziness of a<br />

wooden hut.<br />

Where have you been in the last 12<br />

months?<br />

I’ve been to Germany, Austria,<br />

Switzerland, Czech Republic, Italy,<br />

France, and Belgium. But the most time I<br />

spend in Spain and the Canary Islands.<br />

What has our own mobile home meant<br />

in terms of getting places that maybe<br />

others can’t?<br />

It gives a lot of freedom. I can choose<br />

where I want to live and change it<br />

whenever I want. I can stay directly at the<br />

beach and fall asleep with the sound of<br />

the ocean waves or live somewhere in the<br />

mountains with the nicest views.<br />

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Glenorchy<br />


Tramping in Glenorchy<br />

Where adventure trumps tourist thrills<br />

Words and photos by Eric Skilling<br />

“Tramping! Why?”<br />

“If you have to ask, you’ll never know” – the perfect response from George<br />

Mallory, the famous mountaineer. Personally, apart from the obvious physical<br />

challenges and unique scenery, tramping offers the unexpected, and there is no<br />

better way to strengthen friendships than shared adventures in the wilderness.<br />

There is a time and a place for tourist-type thrills, but nothing beats spending<br />

time away from the distractions of cars, cafes, and credit cards to appreciate<br />

adventure.<br />

New Zealand is blessed with many stunning and diverse national parks to<br />

explore and enjoy – from the intimidating active volcanoes of Tongariro to the<br />

rugged peaks and glaciers of Mt Aspiring. From the dense podocarp forests of<br />

Whirinaki, to the tranquillity of the moss-laden Beech forests of the Old Ghost<br />

Road. All these are just a fraction of places available to explore.<br />

Nowhere illustrates the richness of a tramping adventure as opposed to a<br />

tourist thrill than in the South Otago region of the South Island. Arguably<br />

Queenstown, the self-proclaimed “adventure capital” is really an “activities<br />

capital” compared to what is on offer an hour or so west around Glenorchy.<br />

56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong> View of Mt Earnslaw from Glenorchy walkway<br />


equip<br />

yourself!<br />

Kate and Tanya returning from the Dart Glacier<br />

Queenstown – thrills in a stunning<br />

setting: Unquestionably, Queenstown<br />

deserves its reputation for jaw-dropping<br />

scenery. Just flying into Queenstown<br />

Airport is a buzz. Descending out of a<br />

cloudless blue sky into a vast glacial<br />

valley, the plane cruises close to the<br />

hills – near enough to spot the ski lifts<br />

on Coronet Peak. After landing, your first<br />

sight on exiting the sliding doors from the<br />

baggage claim area is the rugged peaks of<br />

the aptly named Remarkable range (even<br />

though they were named “Remarkable”<br />

for other reasons). Then travel to your<br />

hotel alongside the sparkling blue waters<br />

of Lake Whakatipu, with Cecil Peak<br />

dominating the skyline ahead. You will be<br />

impressed.<br />

Activities in and around Queenstown are<br />

measured in seconds, mostly minutes and<br />

occasionally, hours. It involves queuing<br />

- lots of queuing. You get to climb into<br />

clothing previously donned by another<br />

planeload the previous week. Then endure<br />

a health-and-safety briefing that is often<br />

significantly longer than the “adventure”<br />

itself. And be prepared to part with enough<br />

cash to make Black Friday splurges look<br />

like you took a visit to an op shop.<br />

Environmentally, consumption of fossil<br />

fuels is counted in litres per minute, and<br />

there is no need to bother with the decimal<br />

place.<br />

Do not get me wrong, reflecting on<br />

days spent jetboating, bungee jumping,<br />

paragliding, and riding the gondola brings<br />

back warm memories. Enjoying the<br />

company of friends and loved ones on<br />

a graded e-bike track wider than a golf<br />

cart, stopping off at 5-star cafés to enjoy<br />

excellent coffee and sticky buns is a terrific<br />

way to chill out over a few days. Relaxing<br />

at a vineyard with a glass of fine wine<br />

glinting in the sun is the perfect way to wile<br />

away a warm summer afternoon. Finish<br />

off the day dining on free range chicken<br />

breast, with miso beurre blanc, zucchini<br />

and pickled ginger, washed down with a<br />

fine glass of local pinot.<br />

Undeniably relaxing, memorable, and<br />

sometimes thrilling. But these activities<br />

can never qualify as an adventure.<br />

Glenorchy – gateway to adventur:<br />

Travel west for about an hour or so<br />

and enter another world. Once around<br />

Mt Creighton the full expanse of the<br />

Whakatipu valley opens before you. The<br />

rugged, rocky peaks of the Humbolt and<br />

Thomson Ranges stand like a barrier<br />

on the other side of the lake. A narrow<br />

gap marks the entrance to Greenstone<br />

Track, daring you to enter a world of<br />

isolated valleys, steep climbs, and sudden,<br />

dramatic changes in the weather.<br />

Your stomach begins to tingle, and chest<br />

tighten – you ask yourself “am I prepared<br />

for this?”<br />

Closer to Glenorchy the jagged summits of<br />

the Forbes Mountains begin to dominate<br />

the horizon ahead. These towering peaks<br />

make the ranges on either side of the lake<br />

look less impressive. Soaring above them<br />

all, the glacier covered Mount Earnslaw<br />

lowers the Remarkables to the undercard.<br />

Glenorchy itself seems to materialise<br />

alongside the highway, looking fragile<br />

and slightly out of place amongst the<br />

imposing landscape. Unlike its neighbour<br />

back up the road, the town seems to be<br />

deliberately understated out of respect<br />

for the grandeur of the setting. Boasting a<br />

few cafés, a hotel with a popular garden<br />

bar and restaurant, and other small<br />

businesses, the locals have managed to<br />

retain the “frontier town” feel. Nature is<br />

acknowledged as the boss in this region.<br />

It is critical to carry tasty, high calorie food, that is also easy to prepare<br />

Firstly, after arriving, head for the Glenorchy Walkway. This little gem is the perfect<br />

way to let loose the blanket of commercialism that was wrapped around you in<br />

Queenstown. Within a few minutes of leaving the entranceway is a small lake<br />

offering a magnificent view of 2830 metre high Mount Earnslaw, site of the famous<br />

Earnslaw Burn. Spectacular day walks abound nearby - Glacier Burn, Lake Rere,<br />

or the Judah Track to the historic Jean Hut - accessible to most fitness levels. But<br />

there are other more intrepid options beckoning.<br />

A short distance away lie the entrances to Dart and Rees River valleys and the<br />

inimitable Routeburn track, possibly some of the most stunning scenery imagined.<br />

Beautifully clear water cascades out of glaciers, makes its way down waterfalls<br />

and rapids, to flow more sedately through the more gently sloping valley floors.<br />

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"<strong>Adventure</strong><br />

demands the right<br />

gear, experience,<br />

and humility.<br />

Choices made in<br />

the weeks leading<br />

up to venturing<br />

into these areas<br />

will determine<br />

whether the journey<br />

is one of pleasant<br />

memories, or pain<br />

and discomfort".<br />

Celebrating close to Dart Hut, Mount Edward in the background<br />

Imposing mountains stand over grassy<br />

valleys, steep and high enough to rob you<br />

of any sunrise or sunset shots. Follow<br />

the tracks through forests of podocarps,<br />

beech, then emerge onto alpine<br />

shrublands, negotiate scree covered faces<br />

to summits with views into tomorrow.<br />

Be amazed at the grandeur of glaciers,<br />

untidily littered with the debris from iceshattered<br />

rock.<br />

Imagine standing in a huge U-shaped<br />

valley deep in the Southern Alps on a<br />

hot, sun-filled day, dripping with sweat<br />

despite the higher altitude and a gentle<br />

breeze. Imagine dropping your pack,<br />

crouching, and dipping a water bottle<br />

into the clear, icy-cold waters of a noisy<br />

mountain stream. Then imagine leaning<br />

back and feeling the shock as the recently<br />

melted glacial waters hit your throat<br />

and slide down inside your chest. This<br />

was ours to appreciate on the approach<br />

to Rees Saddle - one of the sweetest,<br />

most refreshing drinks anywhere. The<br />

sheer simplicity makes it infinitely more<br />

memorable than anything produced in a<br />

vat – well okay, almost anything produced<br />

in a vat.<br />

Close encounters with curious kea and<br />

other native birds makes distractions like<br />

aching muscles go away. Witnessing<br />

these original inhabitants thriving deep in<br />

these mountains leaves you with a warm<br />

feeling of hope for the future. Let us face<br />

it, a sparrow landing on the edge of the<br />

Shotover River as you step into a jetboat<br />

does not compare.<br />

Pitch a tent near a cascading stream,<br />

share an evening meal and a coffee with<br />

friends, then slide into a sleeping bag<br />

and doze off to the sound of the flowing<br />

water and occasional call of a morepork.<br />

Priceless.<br />

Most importantly, in my experience, the<br />

company of others enhances the fun<br />

and satisfaction of tramping. Reaching<br />

personal goals in these wild places is<br />

rewarding, even more so when those<br />

around you are achieving theirs at the<br />

same time.<br />

Arriving versus preparing: Activities<br />

require you to turn up – with nothing but<br />

a wallet and, a hat perhaps. <strong>Adventure</strong><br />

demands more. This land is unforgiving<br />

on the unprepared. A health-and-safety<br />

briefing before you set off from the car<br />

park is about as useful as an ash tray on<br />

a mountain bike. You will be found out if<br />

you arrive unfit. There is no uncoupling<br />

of a bungee, stepping off the bridge and<br />

walking back to the café. A safe, enjoyable<br />

trip is a function of the work done in the<br />

days, weeks, and months before.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> demands the right gear,<br />

experience, and humility. Choices made<br />

in the weeks leading up to venturing into<br />

these areas will determine whether the<br />

journey is one of pleasant memories, or<br />

pain and discomfort. Snow can fall in the<br />

middle of summer. Decisions about where<br />

and, more importantly, when to cross<br />

rivers need to be made.<br />

The wilderness is a great equaliser. Your<br />

job, which sort of vehicle you drive, and<br />

where you live does not matter. You could<br />

even be an Australian. Every adventurer<br />

has, to varying degrees, found themselves<br />

dependent on the resourcefulness of<br />

others, and sometimes others will call on<br />

you for help.<br />

Photographs of someone hanging upside<br />

down on a bungee does not have the<br />

impact of a tramper taking in a sunrise<br />

across a line of ragged, mountain peaks<br />

standing silently over valleys hidden under<br />

a carpet of morning cloud. A Facebook<br />

post of an over-priced burger hardly<br />

compares to the sight of a tiny orange tent<br />

pitched on an expansive tussock-covered<br />

ridge, alongside a tarn reflecting the<br />

sunset.<br />

And it has to be good for you. It is what us<br />

homo-sapiens evolved to do.<br />

I choose to use Jetboil, Backcountry, and<br />

Macpac products.<br />


Fishing<br />

The Sound of Summer<br />

That never-ending crescendo of crickets on acid…<br />

We call them Cicadas.<br />

Words by Steve Dickinson<br />

Fishing in the Taupo region is harder in summer, the<br />

fish are more resident, the water is clearer but there<br />

is an upsurge in browns and bigger rainbows, plus a<br />

plethora of small rainbows, and when the cicada sing<br />

you know it’s going to be fun.<br />

Those harmless little bugs that have sticky feet that freak everyone out<br />

when they land on you, the noisy wee bugs you used to hold by the wings<br />

and chase girls at school with, well those are like a McDonald’s Big Mac with<br />

extra cheese to the hungry summer trout.<br />

The cicada is a generic term for an insect that has over 3,000 varieties<br />

around the world. In New Zealand, we boast 42 unique species and<br />

subspecies (and I thought there was just one!).<br />

Real or not?<br />

These bugs have prominent eyes set wide apart, short stubby antennae, and<br />

membranous front wings. They have an exceptionally loud song, produced<br />

by the rapid buckling and unbuckling of drum-like tymbals (which is the<br />

corrugated exoskeletal structure in case you didn’t know). They typically live<br />

in trees, feeding on watery sap, and lay their eggs in a split in the bark.<br />

Though these cicadas' life cycles can vary from 1–9, or more years as<br />

underground nymphs, they emerge above ground as adults and last only a<br />

few months.<br />

Recently on a trip to the Tauranga-Taupo (the mighty T.T.), I decided to<br />

keep one trout for dinner, which I had caught on a nymph. On opening him<br />

up I noticed in the gut cavity some hard lumps. On closer examination, he<br />

was full of digested and half digest cicadas, so I started to ask around what<br />

patterns and set-up worked best in the region. The more I looked into it the<br />

more diverse the setups seem to be.<br />

To be honest, I have carried a few cicada patterns and<br />

even when the sound of cicada has been deafening,<br />

the few times I have tried, I had no success. Then<br />

one day, as the sun beat down, I could see a big old<br />

trout slowly swimming side to side in the shallows<br />

under an overhanging willow. Occasionally there<br />

was a loud plop as something was engulfed from the<br />

water surface. Not really with any idea, I pulled off my<br />

nymph set up and fired the cicada pattern across the<br />

water, I had not even taken my indicator off. Straining<br />

to see in the glare of the water, the trout rose to the<br />

surface and engulfed the black cicada pattern. I<br />

didn’t even need to strike, he was well hooked and<br />

came quickly to the shore. That was my first cicada<br />

experience, since then, like that big old trout, I have<br />

been hooked!<br />

You will find many cicada patterns/flies in tackle<br />

shops. It is always advisable to carry one or two.<br />

As Norman Marsh wrote in his book, 'Trout Stream<br />

Insects in New Zealand', “May the backcountry angler<br />

tread in peril of fishless days who does not include<br />

in his repertoire of trout flies one that at least looks<br />

something like a cicada.”<br />

Cicada patterns come in numerous different shapes,<br />

colours, sizes and materials, from full deer hair to<br />

completely plastic. They can be found around all<br />

types of water, from small spring streams and grassed<br />

edged streams, to large, bush-lined rivers. Basically<br />

anywhere there is a place to secure and drop their<br />

exoskeleton and call to their lady love they will be<br />

there.<br />

Smaller, shallower rivers are best fished by line of<br />

sight, see the trout, and fish downwind if possible.<br />

Even if they seem not to be feeding, the offer of a<br />

juicy cicada can often wake up a dozing trout. In<br />

larger deeper rivers you need to gauge the water and<br />

look to where the trout would or should be feeding,<br />

blind fishing can be successful but you need to be<br />

able to read the water.<br />

Cicada snack!<br />


Image courtesy Matt Butler Kea Outdoors - keaoutdoors.com<br />

"There is an overwhelming feeling of excitement when the seemingly quiet drifting<br />

cicada gets smashed from below, like a marlin hitting the lures."<br />

Casting cicada patterns to the edge of the main current,<br />

especially alongside the edge of pools where the water has<br />

stilled or reticulated, trout here will tend to be deeper in the less<br />

turbulent water and will hit the surface before the cicada drifts<br />

off again in the faster current.<br />

There is an overwhelming feeling of excitement when the<br />

seemingly quiet drifting cicada gets smashed from below, like a<br />

marlin hitting the lures (but on a smaller scale).<br />

Cicada fishing has a lot of variables apart from just the pattern<br />

and colour of the dry fly. Asking around the general consensus<br />

seems to be, the longer the leader the less impact on the<br />

drift it's going to have. Normally with a larger dry fly, I keep<br />

my leader about a length and a half off my rod. But if you are<br />

setting up a dropper rig with the cicada as the indicator, I’ll take<br />

at least a metre off that leader and then have either one or two<br />

nymphs below that, the length of tippet depending on the water<br />

depth and flow.<br />

I have found casting downwind where possible helps the drift.<br />

It’s not a big issue should the cicada plop on landing as they<br />

will naturally. However, if you want to avoid that, a simple<br />

solution is to raise the rod top upwards as the fly is about to<br />

land, and it will settle a lot softer.<br />

When choosing a cicada pattern, ask around at your local store<br />

to what has been working and be prepared to change things<br />

up during the day. One thing to bear in mind is sight, cicada<br />

patterns can be hard to see but many have a white or yellow<br />

post on the back which stands out and helps the visuals.<br />

The real deal<br />

Each year, not on a set date but when the weather and the<br />

date are just right, the mating call of the cicada rings out<br />

and to trout fisherman everywhere that is music.<br />

Cicada fishing is unique, at a time when trout are a little<br />

harder to hit, in that crystal clear water there is simply<br />

nothing like the sight and flash of colour as your cicada<br />

disappears with a splash from sight. Once you have had<br />

one success you will be just like that big old hungry trout,<br />

you will be hooked.<br />


x<br />

Sun Peaks<br />


Sun Peaks<br />

BC, Canada<br />

Canada's second largest<br />

ski area<br />

Canada’s Second Largest Ski Area<br />

Sun Peaks is a resort community in the heart of British<br />

Columbia, easily accessible on a short connecting<br />

flight from Vancouver and boasts the second-largest<br />

ski area in Canada. It’s consistently recognized as<br />

one of the top resorts in North America with its 4,270<br />

acres of skiable terrain spread across three peaks that<br />

are all accessible from the village. Runs range from a<br />

variety of steep and deep double black diamonds to<br />

long and cruisy greens. Sun Peaks receives 6 metres<br />

of snow annually, and the mountains become covered<br />

with light, dry powder that is famous to the interior of<br />

BC. Choose from one of 13 lifts and 139 trails that<br />

reaches a total elevation of 2,080m to set your skis or<br />

board on while enjoying some of the 2,000 hours of<br />

sunshine received annually.<br />

New West Bowl Express Chairlift<br />

Sun Peaks is pleased to announce that a brand-new,<br />

high speed detachable quad chairlift will open in the<br />

alpine for the 2024-25 winter season. As the name<br />

suggests, the West Bowl Express will be located<br />

in the West Bowl area of Mt. Tod. The new quad<br />

chairlift will provide enhanced access to this popular<br />

area of the resort known for quality snow and scenic<br />

vistas. This announcement follows other substantial<br />

improvements to the mountain product in recent<br />

years, highlighted by the brand-new Orient chairlift,<br />

the Crystal chairlift replacement, and last year's<br />

hugely successful expansion of lift-accessed mountain<br />

biking via the Sundance Express in summer. With a<br />

planned opening date of November 2024, the West<br />

Bowl Express will be the third new chairlift to open in<br />

Sun Peaks in a six-year period.<br />

How to get here - Sun Peaks is located in BC's<br />

interior 45-minutes northeast of Kamloops, BC. There<br />

are many ways to get to the ski resort, whether you're<br />

travelling by car or flying in. By air, Sun Peaks is<br />

a 45-minute drive from the Kamloops Airport, with<br />

direct flights from major cities such as Vancouver and<br />

Calgary. Shuttles to Sun Peaks are available from the<br />

Kamloops Airport.<br />


"Sun Peaks is consistently recognized<br />

as one of the top resorts in North<br />

America with its 4,270 acres of skiable<br />

terrain spread across three peaks that<br />

are all accessible from the village."<br />

Ski-Through Village<br />

The European-style ski-in/ski-out village is filled with 45 locallyowned<br />

and operated shops, restaurants, cafes, lodging and<br />

more. Shop for ski gear or browse boutique shops for apparel,<br />

locally-crafted jewellery, souvenirs and mementos, local artwork<br />

and even something for the kids. Wander or ski through the<br />

pedestrian-only walkway and take it all in.<br />

Short Lift Lines<br />

We’ve all been there before: waiting ages in a lift line while<br />

dreaming of being on the slopes. Sun Peaks is known for<br />

having short lift lines, so you can spend more of your day<br />

shredding, and less of your day standing in line.<br />

Places to Stay<br />

Whether you’re visiting on a solo adventure, with the whole<br />

family, or a gaggle of friends, Sun Peaks has accommodations<br />

that are right for you. Choose from an array of over 1100 units<br />

including hotels, lodges, condos, townhomes, chalets, and<br />

suites. From luxurious, full-service hotels, to affordable, cozy<br />

townhouses, easily find the right place to rest your head.<br />

Where to eat<br />

From sushi to schnitzel, bison burgers to grilled salmon, and<br />

homemade fudge to fresh baked goods—your taste buds will<br />

be pleasantly surprised at every turn. Whether you’re looking<br />

for something vegan friendly at Vertical Cafe, to seal off your<br />

day or a perfectly grilled, 100% Canadian steak at Sun Peaks<br />

Steakhouse, you’ll find a place to unwind and enjoy a delicious<br />

meal made with fresh, local ingredients. If you want to plan an<br />

at home dinner at your accommodation but don't want to cook,<br />

pre-order a meal from Ohana’s Deli & Market that sources<br />

locally made products.<br />

Winter Activities<br />

While Sun Peaks is recognized as a resort and for its<br />

unparalleled downhill skiing and snowboarding, it’s also a<br />

home to 1,500+ permanent residents. Aiming to make their<br />

mountain home as accessible as they can for guests every<br />

season, there is an array of activities to enjoy if you’re looking<br />

to expand beyond the slopes. Glide along pristine, snow-covers<br />

trails among lodgepole pine trees during a dog sled tour, bring<br />

home a fresh rainbow trout after a day of guided ice fishing,<br />

or explore the endless wild of a moonlit Sun Peaks during our<br />

Moonlight Snowshoe & S’mores Tour.<br />


CHASE<br />

YOUR<br />

DREAMS.<br />

Dogsledding - something that should be on everyone's bucket list.<br />

Five Activities you can’t miss out on;<br />

Tube Time, Sun Peaks infamous lift access tube park is a beloved activity among visitors and residents. With its<br />

curvy lanes, Tube Time offers a unique tubing experience.<br />

AND YOUR<br />

FRIENDS.<br />

Axe Throwing Visit Cleavage Axe Co to experience this thrilling activity. Perfect for individuals or groups and no<br />

experience is necessary. You will be with an axe coach who will teach you the basics before getting you into some<br />

friendly competition. Options available for all ages.<br />

Alpine Fondue and Starlight Descent, This activity, which is worthy of being on everyone’s bucket list, gives you<br />

a glimpse of the mountain at night. You’ll take an exclusive twilight ride up the Sunburst chairlift for a three-course,<br />

Swiss-style fondue dinner and dessert, followed by a moonlight descent down the freshly groomed 5 Mile run with<br />

a guide.<br />

Ice Fishing, Take a break from the slopes and try your hand at catching a wild rainbow trout at one of the many<br />

lakes surrounding Sun Peaks. Your guide will pick you up from your accommodation and take you out for a truly<br />

unique Canadian experience.<br />

Dog Sledding, A tour with Mountain Man Dog Sled <strong>Adventure</strong>s is another bucket-list worthy experience. Explore<br />

Sun Peaks from a different viewpoint on one of their exhilarating dog sled tours. You're guaranteed to dream of<br />

this magical tour through Sun Peaks winter wonderland until your next visit.<br />

Things to Keep in Mind - Even the best planner can miss something or forget to pack an item, but don't fret. The<br />

village has many shops that carry anything you may have forgotten at home. Rent gear or try new skies at one of<br />

the many rental shops. For those longer stays, save up to 15% when you book rentals for three days or more.<br />

Plan your perfect winter getaway<br />

at Canada’s 2nd largest ski area:<br />

SunPeaksResort.com/Winter<br />

Left to right: Ice fishing is a unique Canadian experience / The Alpine Fondue and Starlight Descent / Sun Peaks Village, groomed to perfection<br />

Photographer: Reuben Krabbe Athletes: Mie Bartholdy & Elli Terwiel<br />

Secwépemc Territory<br />


NEW!<br />



www.SKOTTIGRILL.co.nz<br />

LET'S<br />

GO<br />

Lowe Alpine Packing Cubes $34.95 - $54.95<br />

Pack more efficiently by storing your<br />

kit in cubes, keep your belongings<br />

organized and easy to find. Available in<br />

small, medium, and large.<br />


Patagonia Black Hole® Pack 25L $259.99<br />

A burly 25 litre workhorse pack with a fresh<br />

update this season. Now made from a 100%<br />

recycled body fabric plus a weather resistant<br />

recycled TPU film laminate. You can expect the<br />

same reliable durability now with a matte finish.<br />

This pack is perfect for your daily commutes and<br />

rugged enough to haul around the globe. Made in<br />

a Fair Trade Certified factory.<br />


Experience the freedom of outdoor<br />

cooking anywhere with SKOTTI Grill<br />

Portable, Flat Packable, No Tools Required.<br />

Lightweight (only 3.3kg) & Quick to Assemble.<br />

Runs on Gas, Charcoal or Wood.<br />

Made from Stainless Steel to last a lifetime.<br />



Winner drawn 2 April 2024.<br />


rab Expedition Kitbag – 50, 70 and 90 litres<br />

$179.95 - $249.95<br />

Hardwearing, heavy duty, and<br />

water-resistant, this bag is made<br />

with 600D fabric and designed to<br />

keep your gear safe and withstand<br />

the rigors of an expedition.<br />


Osprey Archeon 40L $499.99<br />

From everyday carry to carry-on<br />

travel, the Archeon 40 offers advanced<br />

organization, easy access to gear and<br />

protects most laptops up to 17".<br />


Kiwi camping Medium Duffle Bag 60L $139.00<br />

Rugged, durable and designed to withstand<br />

the toughest adventures. The new Kiwi<br />

Camping duffle bag comes with detachable<br />

padded backstraps convert the duffle into<br />

an expansive backpack.<br />


Lowe Alpine Escape Tour Bag 55 + 15<br />

$499.95<br />

The Escape Tour is a rear-access,<br />

loaded with features 55-litre<br />

backpack and detachable 15-litre<br />

day pack, offering volume and<br />

flexibility making adventure fun, safe<br />

and simple. Unisex and women’s<br />

options available.<br />


www.SKOTTIGRILL.co.nz<br />


t r a v e l e s s e n t i a l s<br />

Osprey Sojourn Family<br />

Sojourn Porter 46L RRP $399.99<br />

A true traveler's workhorse that<br />

maximizes storage space and<br />

comfort for carry-on convenience.<br />

Sojourn Porter 65L RRP $449.99<br />

Ideal for longer excursions and<br />

adventures of all kinds with<br />

increased storage capacity and<br />

convenient organization for on-thego<br />

access.<br />

Sojourn Wheeled Travel Pack<br />

60L RRP $749.99<br />

Perfect middle-ground for checkedbag<br />

travelers who want to stay<br />

nimble.<br />

Sojourn Wheeled Travel Pack<br />

80L RRP $799.99<br />

For lengthier journeys, the Sojourn<br />

80 redefines the boundaries of<br />

wheeled travel.<br />

Osprey Airporter<br />

RRP From $99.99<br />

Tuned for travel, the Airporter is a<br />

backpack travel cover to keep your<br />

backpacking or hiking pack protected<br />

while in transit, be it by taxi, train or<br />

plane.<br />

Its lockable zipper provides added<br />

security and an improved shoulder<br />

strap makes lugging it to and fro a<br />

breeze. Available in Small, Medium<br />

and Large.<br />

Osprey Transporter wheeled duffel<br />

This wheeled duffel bag has the capacity and durability<br />

required by even the most demanding, mile-accruing traveller.<br />

Rugged HighRoad Chassis, dual-sided TPU coating, burly<br />

hardware, oversized flap and design details that protect your<br />

gear from external elements.<br />

Sustainably made from bluesign® approved recycled<br />

materials with a PFC-free DWR treatment that sheds<br />

moisture.<br />

Wheeled Duffel 60L RRP $599.99<br />

This mid-sized bag is perfect for weeklong adventures or<br />

gear-intensive weekends.<br />

Wheeled Duffel 90L RRP $649.99<br />

Your go-to companion for big trips that require lots of room for<br />

lots of gear.<br />

Wheeled Duffel 120L RRP $699.99<br />

For the biggest trips, the heaviest gear and most exotic<br />

locations.<br />

osprey Ultralight Packing Cube<br />

RRP From $24.99<br />

Ultralight Packing Cubes<br />

are perfect for organizing<br />

and compartmentalizing<br />

all your gear and clothing.<br />

Make organizing and<br />

packing your gear easy, so<br />

you can spend more time<br />

enjoying your experience.<br />

Available in small,<br />

medium, and large, or as<br />

a set.<br />

osprey Ultralight Padded Organiser<br />

RRP $49.99<br />

This padded organizer can be used for a<br />

travel kit or as a simple carrying solution<br />

for protecting small electronics or other<br />

delicate items in transit.<br />

• StraightJacket compression<br />

• 3mm foam padding<br />

• Organizational pockets<br />

• Webbing handle<br />

Osprey Farpoint | Fairview<br />

Travel far and light with the Farpoint<br />

Fairview Family, designed to keep up with<br />

fast-moving globetrotters exploring new<br />

and exciting places.<br />

Despite minimal weights, these fullfeatured<br />

packs adopt serious backpacking<br />

features from our more technical packs.<br />

Fine-tunable torso adjustments, loadlifting<br />

LightWire frames, and breathable<br />

harnesses/hipbelts are blended with<br />

practical travel functionality.<br />

Internal organization has been optimized<br />

for travel purposes and rugged<br />

compression straps keep your carry tight<br />

and stable.<br />

Farpoint is the men’s model while<br />

Fairview is built specifically for women.<br />

osprey Transporter Powerhouse<br />

RRP $69.99<br />

Keep your travel necessities secure<br />

in one place with the Transporter®<br />

Powerhouse. Elastic molles<br />

keep charging cords and cables<br />

organized.<br />

There’s a large internal pocket for a<br />

battery bank, a small pocket for ear<br />

buds and a zippered external pocket<br />

to hold a passport or wallet. The<br />

TPU-coated polyester fabric keeps<br />

the elements out.<br />

Osprey Aoede Briefpack 22<br />

RRP $279.99<br />

Enjoy three style-forward packs in one: the<br />

versatile Aoede Briefpack delivers top-tier<br />

functionality and comfort as a backpack, an<br />

over-the-shoulder carry and as hand carry.<br />

For an upscale work wardrobe where<br />

function and aesthetics align, this briefpack<br />

makes commuting and business travel<br />

seamless.<br />

abus Combination Lock TSA<br />

RRP $29.99<br />

A good choice for securing your<br />

luggage when you want to fly to<br />

the United States. The lock with a<br />

plastic body and cable bracket is<br />

locked by an individually resettable<br />

three-digit numerical code.<br />

Indicator that shows red if the lock<br />

has been opened using a TSA key.<br />

To reset the red indicator open the<br />

lock and turn shackle by 360°.<br />

abus Combiflex Travelguard<br />

RRP $59.99<br />

The Combiflex TravelGuard is the<br />

perfect safeguard for your helmet or<br />

backpack on excursions. Features<br />

an extra solid steel core and a<br />

3-digit opening code that can be<br />

set and changed individually. The<br />

45-centimetre-long cable forms a<br />

lashing loop, the length of which can<br />

be freely adjusted.<br />

Farpoint | Fairview 40L RRP $349.99<br />

Sized to meet most domestic carry-on<br />

requirements, making it the perfect onepack-does-all<br />

for streamlined travel.<br />

Farpoint | Fairview 55L RRP $399.99<br />

Comes with a fully detachable daypack<br />

that gives you ultimate flexibility.<br />

Plus, it meets most domestic carryon<br />

requirements with the main pack<br />

overhead and daypack as your personal<br />

item.<br />

Farpoint | Fairview 70L RRP $429.99<br />

Ample room for a full week of continuous<br />

travel, whether you're hiking between<br />

hostels or taking your trip to more remote<br />

destinations. Also has a fully detachable<br />

daypack.<br />

Osprey Archeon Family<br />

Blurring the lines between work and play, the<br />

Archeon revolutionizes everyday carry.<br />

Archeon Sling 7 RRP $149.99<br />

A sleek, ambidextrous sling that can be used alone<br />

or mounted to any Archeon pack with lash straps.<br />

Archeon 24L RRP $349.99<br />

The Archeon 24 fits up to 16" laptops and offers<br />

superior tech organization for everyday use.<br />

Archeon 40L RRP $499.99<br />

From everyday carry to carry-on travel, the Archeon<br />

40 offers advanced organization, easy access to<br />

gear and protects most laptops up to 17".<br />

osprey Daylite Hanging Toiletry Kit<br />

RRP $49.99<br />

The Daylite Hanging Toiletry Kit is a<br />

convenient hanging organizer for toiletries<br />

and travel essentials with zippered<br />

compartments to help keep your travel<br />

essentials separated and tidy. Pull out<br />

its interior liner for convenient cleanup<br />

between trips.<br />

• Web hanging loop for all types of<br />

situations<br />

• Large packing space<br />

• Easy-to-see mesh pockets<br />

• Interior organization<br />

• bluesign® approved 100% recycled<br />

600D polyester<br />

Sea to Summit Airlite Towel<br />

RRP $24.99 Medium<br />

Lightweight, super compact and<br />

exceptionally fast drying, our minimalist<br />

Airlite Towel won’t slow you down,<br />

• Fast drying<br />

• Tiny packed size<br />

• 50% lighter than our Pocket Towel<br />

• Easy storage in its 15D Nylon stuff<br />

sack<br />

• Elongated proportions for dual use<br />

as a bandanna or for neck protection<br />

Sea to Summit Aeros Ultralight Pillow<br />

RRP $59.99 Regular<br />

The Aeros Ultralight Pillow epitomises our<br />

design preferences for ‘light, compact and<br />

comfortable’. The result is a 20D laminated<br />

polyester pillow with shapely support that can<br />

be packed away into a neat, small stuff sack.<br />

• Curved internal baffles create contours<br />

that cradle your head<br />

• Scalloped bottom edge centres pillow over<br />

your shoulders whether you’re sleeping on<br />

your back, side or upright in a chair<br />

• Inflate pillow in a couple of breaths with<br />

the multi-function valve<br />

• Easily secured to any Sea to Summit<br />

sleeping mat through the Pillow Lock<br />

System<br />

• Durable RF-welded construction<br />

• Laminated with abrasion resistant high<br />

strength TPU<br />

Sea to Summit Expander Liner<br />

RRP $49.99 Standard, $54.99 Long<br />

The Expander liner is made from a premium<br />

stretch knit poly-cotton, making it super stretchy<br />

and even warmer than a standard cotton weave<br />

liner.<br />

• Premium stretch knit fabric that can expand<br />

twice its width.<br />

• Luxuriously comfortable to sleep in.<br />

• Extends the life of a sleeping bag by<br />

keeping it clean<br />

• Anti-Microbial protection keeps liner<br />

fresh, hygienic and odour-free<br />

• Double folded and reinforced seams<br />

• Easy car, machine washable<br />

• Standard rectangular shape<br />

• Available in Standard and Long lengths<br />

74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong><br />

Find a Stockist: southernapproach.co.nz<br />

IG and FB @southernapproachnz

exped Trekkinglite 0 Down Sleeping Bag<br />

$499.99<br />

Excellent warmth-to-weight ratio and<br />

a minimal packed size. Features a<br />

supple, durable DWR-free shell, a<br />

next-to-skin comfortable lining and<br />

700-fill, high-quality European duck<br />

down insulation. Differential cut,<br />

multi-chambered footbox, and plush,<br />

adjustable draft collar. 835g (medium)<br />


Kiwi Camping Weka 2 Hiker Tent $349.90<br />

Kiwi Camping's most popular hiker tent<br />

with double-sided entry, sturdy vestibules,<br />

and a user-friendly design. With a fly that<br />

handles rain and snow, the Weka 2 is<br />

perfect for hiking adventures.<br />


Kiwi Camping Rover King Single 10CM<br />

Self-Inflating Mat $249.90<br />

The Rover mat has a 10cm<br />

thick mat that inflates easily<br />

with a 3-way valve. Ideal for<br />

camping, the king single is<br />

2000mm long and 760mm<br />

wide with an R-value of 13.3.<br />


helinox chair one<br />

$199.99<br />

Chair One's comfort is legendary, and with<br />

its ability to move from backpacking trips<br />

to music festivals to days at the beach, its<br />

versatility is unmatched. Smaller and lighter<br />

than a bottle of wine, this durable seat is<br />

just what you need for your next outdoor<br />

adventure.<br />

Easy to clean with soap and water, it’s<br />

made for years of outdoor use and is<br />

backed by our five-year warranty.<br />


skotti grill<br />

Skotti Grill is the most Flexible Gas Grill<br />

in the world. Experience the freedom of<br />

outdoor cooking, anywhere. Introducing<br />

the SKOTTI Grill – Quick to assemble, No<br />

tools required, Flat Packs for Portability.<br />

Lightweight at just 3.3kg. Uses Gas (2.5<br />

kW, 9000BTU), Wood or Charcoal fuel. 304<br />

Stainless Steel to last a lifetime, 3.5mm Grill<br />

grate (body 1mm). Level up your outdoor<br />

adventures with the SKOTTI Grill!<br />

More Information WWW.SKOTTIGRILL.CO.NZ<br />

distributed by Allsports Distribution LTD.<br />

Xtorm 20W - 10.000 mAh Power Bank - Fuel Series 4<br />

*RRP: $79.95<br />

Description: This Power Bank has all the<br />

latest tech and new features that bring you<br />

Next Gen charging speeds. It has 2 USB<br />

outputs, and one extra powerful 20W USB-C<br />

that's designed to charge your smartphone<br />

faster than ever.<br />

• Powerful Next Gen 20W fast charging<br />

• Unique design and soft touch finish<br />

• 10.000 mAh capacity<br />

Xtorm Xtreme Cables<br />

*RRP: $37.95 - $59.95<br />

Description: These Ultra-Strong Xtorm cables are built to last. Every detail is<br />

designed to withstand the wear and tear caused by heavy use. They are able to<br />

withstand 1 100,000x bends, and are pull tested to support up to 100kg!<br />

Xtorm 20W Fuel Series 10.000 mAh Solar Charger<br />

*RRP: $109.95<br />

Description: The Xtorm 20W Fuel Series<br />

Solar Charger 10.000 mAh gives you<br />

the freedom and energy to go anywhere<br />

you want, making it perfect for all your<br />

adventures.<br />

• Can charge an iPhone 14, 12, and 13 up<br />

to 59% in just half an hour<br />

• The Solar Charger is equipped with a<br />

10.000 mAh lithium-polymer battery,<br />

powerful enough to charge your<br />

smartphone at least 2x<br />

• Featuring a 20W USB-C output that fast<br />

charges your smartphone<br />

• Splash-proof, drop-resistant, and has a<br />

powerful integrated flashlight<br />

• The Solar Charger itself can be<br />

recharged in two ways, either via<br />

USB-C, or by taking it outside and let the<br />

built-in-solar panel do its work<br />

Kiwi Camping Mamaku Trek 0°C<br />

Sleeping Bag $119.00<br />

The Mamaku Trek sleeping<br />

bag is ideal for trekking or<br />

camping adventures. The<br />

semi-tapered design features<br />

a drawstring-adjustable<br />

contoured hood that packs<br />

down into the handy<br />

compression bag for easy<br />

pack and carry.<br />


Xtrom Foldable Wireless 3-in-1 Travel Charger<br />

*RRP: $179.00<br />

Description: Xtorm designed a clean and<br />

practical 3-in-1 Foldable Wireless Travel<br />

Charger for devices that support magnetic<br />

wireless charging. With the included USB-C<br />

PD cable, you will be able to charge, for<br />

example, your iPhone, Apple Watch and<br />

AirPods simultaneously on one compact<br />

charging pad. iPhones can be charged<br />

wirelessly with 7.5W and Android phones<br />

can charge wirelessly with a stunning 15W.<br />

Kiwi Camping Tuatara Crest Rooftop Tent $1,999.90<br />

The Tuatara Crest is the new version of our hugely popular Tuatara<br />

SSC roof tent, one of the lightest options on the market, and New<br />

Zealand’s original blackout roof tent.<br />


76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong><br />

Xtorm Xtreme Rugged 10.000 mAh Power Bank<br />

*RRP: $129.00<br />

Description: The Rugged 10.000 Power<br />

Bank is the ultimate survival gadget to keep<br />

you going during your outdoor adventures. It<br />

allows you to quickly fast charge your mobile<br />

devices, wherever you are.<br />

• IP65 Water Resistant<br />

• Recharge your phone up to 2 times<br />

• Powerful integrated flashlight<br />

*prices are subject to change<br />

Find the full product range online at www.outdooraction.co.nz<br />

Follow us on Instagram and Facebook @outdooractionnz

Outdoor Research vantage bralette $89.99<br />

Compression-fit bra top with light support for<br />

those days when only a single upper layer<br />

will do. It features a stylish strappy back and<br />

soft, stretch-knit Vantage fabric for moisturewicking,<br />

quick-drying performance.<br />


Outdoor Research echo tshirt $69.99<br />

Made from an eco-friendly fabric featuring<br />

AirVent moisture management to keep you<br />

dry, ActiveFresh odour control and a soft hand<br />

feel plus movement-mirroring stretch for comfort.<br />

UPF 20 sun protection rating. Designed to tackle<br />

adventures in hot conditions.<br />


rab Nexus Pull-on $139.95<br />

The Nexus Pull-on is a<br />

staple go-to, lightweight<br />

technical mid-layer made<br />

with Thermic stretch<br />

fleece for mobility and<br />

comfort with a YKK® chest<br />

zip and pocket.<br />


Outdoor Research echo boxer briefs $49.99<br />

Made from a moisture-wicking, breathable,<br />

quick-drying fabric featuring AirVent<br />

moisture management. Flat seam construction<br />

and a functional fly. These boxers keep you in<br />

comfort all day.<br />


rab Namche Gore-Tex Paclite Jacket $499.95<br />

Made with 100% recycled fabric, this jacket<br />

is waterproof, comfortable, and packable,<br />

making it the best partner for facing various<br />

kind of adventures.<br />


black diamond Stormline Stretch Shell $299.99<br />

Alpine squalls or urban downpours, the<br />

StormLine Stretch Rain Shell can handle<br />

it all. Featuring our BD.dry waterproof/<br />

breathable/windproof solution, which is<br />

engineered to shield you from whatever<br />

the weather holds, the StormLine is a fully<br />

featured rain shell.<br />

• DWR pit zips for ventilation<br />

• Underarm gussets for added mobility<br />

• Adjustable, climbing-helmetcompatible<br />

hood<br />

• YKK reverse coil PU coated center<br />

front zipper<br />

• Packs into right-hand pocket with<br />

carabiner clip loop<br />

• Adjustable cuffs and hem<br />

• Men’s & Women’s styles available.<br />


Patagonia Torrentshell 3L Rain Jacket<br />

$279.99<br />

A simple, versatile and durable<br />

companion. Our trusted<br />

Torrentshell 3L Rain Jacket<br />

meets Patagonia’s H2No®<br />

Performance Standard for<br />

exceptional waterproof/breathable<br />

performance. PFC-free, this<br />

rain jacket does not contain<br />

perfluorinated chemicals, provides<br />

the highest levels of comfort<br />

and performance, and long-term<br />

waterproof durability. Made in a<br />

Fair Trade Certified factory.<br />


black diamond Alpenglow Hoody $159.99<br />

A technical fit paired with a highly protective fabric, the<br />

Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody keeps you covered<br />

when sunscreen just won't cut it.<br />

• UPF 50+ sun protection<br />

• BD.cool—mineral-based in-fibre cooling technology<br />

• Underarm gussets for added range of motion<br />

• Under-the-helmet hood<br />

• Polygiene odour control treatment<br />

• Men’s & Women’s styles available.<br />


Outdoor Research Helium Rain Jacket $299.99<br />

Pertex® Shield with Diamond Fuse Technology for<br />

durable, lightweight, breathable waterproof protection.<br />

Stows in its chest pocket. 176g (men’s large),159g<br />

(women’s medium).<br />


bear cottage Possum Merino Wool Ombre Throw $195.00<br />

A unique and luxurious blend of NZ possum<br />

fur and pure NZ merino lambswool. A beautiful<br />

luxurious Multi Tone Throw – so versatile, so<br />

light and ever so warm.<br />

35% Possum Fur, 55% Merino Lambswool,<br />

10% Mulberry Silk.<br />

Measurements approx: 1.24m x 1.71m<br />


SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $429.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede<br />

leather and stretch fabric upper with a<br />

protective rubber rand for protection<br />

against rock, scree and debris. Featuring<br />

a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining<br />

for optimal waterproofing and breathability.<br />

The EVA midsole provides superior<br />

cushioning and excellent comfort for a<br />

technical shoe. Climbing Lacing right to<br />

the toe allows for a more precise fit, while<br />

the Vibram® Alpine Hiking outsole covers<br />

a wide spectrum of mountain terrain.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 470 g<br />

(pictured) (W) 370 g<br />



The breathable recycled cotton and hemp<br />

canvas upper is protected by a full 360°<br />

TPU rand. Our 3F system with nylon-coated<br />

Kevlar® cables provides additional support<br />

and greater stability at the heel, while ensuring<br />

a precise fit. The dual density eco Ortholite®<br />

footbed promotes superior cushioning, and the<br />

Pomoca outsole offers secure grip during light<br />

hiking approach activities.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 305 g (pictured)<br />

(W) 256 g<br />


SALEWA RAPACE GTX $649.90<br />

The Rapace GTX is a lightweight mountaineering<br />

boot with a hard-wearing nubuck upper with<br />

waterproof breathable GORE-TEX® protection.<br />

The 3F System provides ankle support, flexibility<br />

and a perfect fit. Our Bilight TPU technology and<br />

Nylon + 27% Fiberglass in the midsole ensures<br />

an ergonomic hold and allows the use of semiautomatic<br />

crampons. There’s a full rubber rand<br />

for protection against rock and scree, and the<br />

Vibram WTC outsole has an aggressive tread<br />

pattern that gives good traction yet provides a<br />

natural feel and secure grip on mixed terrain.<br />

Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 740g (pictured) (W) 615g<br />



The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede<br />

leather and stretch fabric upper with a<br />

protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-<br />

TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal<br />

waterproofing and breathability, and the<br />

customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF)<br />

with interchangeable layers allows you to<br />

adapt it to the unique shape of your foot;<br />

Climbing Lacing right to the toe allows for<br />

a more precise fit, while the Vibram® Hike<br />

Approach outsole covers a wide spectrum<br />

of mountain terrain.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W)<br />

482 g (pictured)<br />



The Ortles Ascent Mid Gore-Tex® mountain<br />

boot is a solid solution for alpine mountaineers.<br />

Its thick suede leather upper, SALEWA® 3F<br />

system with steel cables and reinforced TPU<br />

rand make it exceptionally robust and durable.<br />

There’s a stiff carbon-loaded nylon fibreglass<br />

insole, while the dual density expanded<br />

polyurethane midsole allows enhanced stability<br />

and comfort. The waterproof, breathable<br />

GORE-TEX® Insulated Comfort membrane has<br />

an integrated insulation layer. The Flex Collar<br />

improves rear ankle flexion, and the semi-auto<br />

crampon compatible Vibram® Alpine Guide<br />

sole unit is engineered for traction, durability<br />

and reliability on difficult terrain.<br />

Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 850 g (pictured)<br />

(W) 660 g<br />




Back Country Cuisine Elite has been formulated to meet the<br />

energy requirement of meat eating elite outdoors people,<br />

who want to push themselves and need meals delivering<br />

700 to 800+ Cal/kcals of energy. The bulk of the calories<br />

are coming from fats and protein with the remainder coming<br />

from carbohydrates. Take your adventure nutrition to the next<br />

level with the Back Country Cuisine Elite range. For more<br />

information or to find your nearest stockist visit:<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

KEA SURVIVAL KIT GEAR PACKS $40.00- $50.00<br />

KEA Gear Packs are built for purpose and contain all the<br />

essential gear required to pack or refill your outdoor survival kit.<br />


Biryani Lamb $19.99<br />

This Elite high calorie meal<br />

is a filling classic Indian<br />

dish with aromatic rice,<br />

freeze-dried lamb, green<br />

peppers and corn.<br />

camelBak Eddy+ filtered by Lifestraw<br />

09L Vacuum Insulated Stainless Steel<br />

$139.99<br />

Eddy+ filtered by LifeStraw takes<br />

the worry out of hydrating-on-thego.<br />

Whether you are a couple days<br />

into a backcountry trip or looking for<br />

an everyday water bottle, you need<br />

a trustworthy source for safe water<br />

wherever you roam.<br />

Two Stages of Filtration: Hollow Fiber<br />

Filter removes bacteria, parasites and<br />

microplastics. Ion Exchange Filter<br />

reduces lead, taste and odor, chlorine<br />

and other chemicals.<br />


Curried Beef $19.99<br />

This Elite high calorie<br />

meal is a hearty meal of<br />

freeze-dried quinoa and<br />

beef mince, with curry<br />

notes and just the right<br />

amount of vegetables.<br />

Chicken Korma $19.99<br />

This Elite high calorie<br />

Chicken Korma has an<br />

authentic spicy rice and<br />

freeze-dried chicken<br />

with vegetables, almond<br />

flakes and a yoghurt<br />

sauce to mix.<br />

Kiwicamping Flexi Light Strip White/Orange $69.99<br />

A 1.3m long LED strip fitted with white/orange<br />

LED lights to illuminate your tent and deter<br />

bugs and insects. IP65-water-resistant and<br />

includes carry bag.<br />


Oats and Apple $16.99<br />

This Elite high calorie<br />

breakfast has creamy<br />

oats with freeze-dried<br />

apple, raisins, almonds<br />

and a dash of cinnamon.<br />

Great for breakfast or<br />

dessert.<br />


Inspired by the innovative,<br />

everchanging drinks scene,<br />

we instinctively knew how a<br />

drop of Jägermeister and a<br />

backbeat of cold brew coffee<br />

could transform any night. The<br />

enviable result? A brand-new<br />


BREW COFFEE. A unique<br />

fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s 56<br />

botanicals and intense cold brew<br />

coffee.<br />


Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch<br />

Born from <strong>Adventure</strong>: Shackleton<br />

Blended Malt Scotch is based on<br />

the spirit supplied to the 1907 British<br />

Antarctic Expedition, expertly crafted<br />

using a selection of the finest Highland<br />

Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available<br />

at various Liquor Retailers .<br />



KEA kit $80.00 (GO) - $120.00 (XL)<br />

KEA KIT GO & XL are Outdoor Survival<br />

Systems to help pack essential safety gear.<br />

GO for on the move and the XL for vehicle/<br />

basecamp<br />




Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />

development in online stores over the past 5 years.<br />

We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some<br />

you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,<br />

compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to<br />

feed your adventure addiction.<br />

Waterfront accommodation on Nydia Track, Marlborough, NZ<br />

www.onthetracklodge.nz<br />

Fully Supported Cycle Tours to: New Zealand, Japan, Cambodia,<br />

Kenya & Tanzania, Kyrgyzstan, Namibia, Colombia<br />

www.escapeadventuresnz.com<br />

The best outdoor equipment for all of your adventurous<br />

antics. Outdoor Action has you sorted.<br />

www.outdooraction.co.nz<br />

Building versatile and reliable gear so you<br />

can adventure with purpose.<br />

www.keaoutdoors.com<br />

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />

brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />

www.merrell.co.nz<br />

Temperature. Taste. Transport.<br />

Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.<br />

www.hydroflask.co.nz<br />

Top NZ made health supplements delivered straight<br />

to your door, with same day dispatch.<br />

www.supps.nz<br />

This small, friendly family-run company is based in Lake<br />

Tekapo, New Zealand, specializing in guided outdoor<br />

adventures throughout New Zealand's Southern Alps.<br />

www.alpinerecreation.com<br />

The place to go for all the gear you need whether you're skiing,<br />

snowboarding, hiking, biking or just exploring.<br />

www.thealpinecentre.co.nz<br />

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />

www.patagonia.co.nz<br />

www.glerups.co.nz<br />

glerups shoes, slippers<br />

and boots are known for<br />

their exceptional comfort<br />

and unique design.<br />

Over the years we have<br />

perfected the wool mix<br />

by blending Gotland<br />

wool with quality wool<br />

from New Zealand<br />

farmers.<br />

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Stocking an extensive range<br />

of global outdoor adventure<br />

brands for your next big<br />

adventure. See them for travel,<br />

tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />

lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />

www.outfittersstore.nz<br />

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Your adventure travel specialists, with over 20 years<br />

experience! They live what they sell.<br />

www.madabouttravel.co.nz<br />

Supplying tents and<br />

camping gear to Kiwis<br />

for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />

Camping are proud to<br />

be recognised as one of<br />

the most trusted outdoor<br />

brands in New Zealand.<br />

www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />

Marine and industrial supply story<br />

www.lusty-blundell.co.nz<br />

Bobo Products, a leading importer and distributor of snow<br />

and outdoor products in New Zealand.<br />

www.bobo.co.nz<br />

NZ world class climbing centre.<br />

Your climbing experience is at<br />

the heart of what they do. They<br />

provide trained and competent<br />

professionals that are psyched<br />

on climbing and passionate<br />

about supporting others.<br />

www.northenrocks.co.nz<br />

Purveying the finest singleorigin<br />

roasted Espresso<br />

and Filter coffee in NZ since<br />

2013 for you to enjoy at<br />

home or work.<br />

www.redrabbitcoffee.co.nz<br />

10% discount on coffee use<br />



x<br />

Escape to New Caledonia<br />

For an adventure of a lifetime<br />

Nestled in the heart of the South Pacific and a mere 3-hour flight<br />

from Auckland, New Caledonia is a hidden gem beckoning travellers<br />

with its unique blend of untouched landscapes and exhilarating<br />

activities. Whether you’re after a diving holiday exploring the world’s<br />

largest lagoon, a heart-pounding mountain biking journey or traversing<br />

through lush rainforests and vast landscapes, New Caledonia will suit<br />

every adventure traveller’s expectations.<br />

Not only does this little French slice of paradise offer unparalleled<br />

adventurous activities, but the destination is also home to a spate of<br />

sporting events that attract local and international sports enthusiasts<br />

every year. To maximise your holiday experience in New Caledonia,<br />

consider aligning your travel plans with one of these events.<br />

Hiking holiday<br />

The mainland, also referred to as Grande Terre has an extensive<br />

network of marked hiking trails, spreading across 500 km from the reddirt<br />

tracks in the Blue River Provincial Park in the South, the diverse<br />

rainforests in the Giant Fern Park near Farino, to the rolling green hills<br />

of Bourail on the West Coast. You can opt for shorter day hikes or if<br />

you’re looking for a challenge, the 2 Grandes Randonnées (longer<br />

trails) might be more up your alley.<br />

The breathtaking 126km long GR® NC1 trail will take you through the<br />

national parks, waterfalls and historical sites on the southern part of the<br />

mainland and takes approximately 7 days. The slightly shorter GR®<br />

Nord is 73 km long and takes about 4 days to complete while exploring<br />

the green wilderness of the East Coast’s mountain ranges, forests and<br />

tribal lands. GR® NC1 offers a sporty, adventurous route, while GR®<br />

Nord caters to families and guided hut experiences, including overnight<br />

stays with tribes - a truly unforgettable adventure. It is recommended to<br />

do the GR Nord with a guide to ensure travellers respect the customs<br />

and culture of the Kanak people.<br />

"Not only does this little<br />

French slice of paradise<br />

offer unparalleled<br />

adventurous activities,<br />

but the destination is<br />

also home to a spate<br />

of sporting events<br />

that attract local and<br />

international sports<br />

enthusiasts every year."<br />

For a real adventure, head to the sparsely populated Loyalty Islands<br />

(Lifou, Maré and Ouvéa). Encounter secluded beaches, hidden caves,<br />

amazing views, abundant bushland and local Kanak inhabitants that<br />

will make you feel welcome the second you arrive. Check out the<br />

2-day hike with the Hunëte Tribe on Lifou where you’ll camp out on the<br />

waterfront of Hnajoisisi and fishing on Ngönij beach. While staying with<br />

the Kurine Tribe on the island of Mare, you’ll have access to a 2.5-hour<br />

walk that will take you along the coral plateau with the incredible views<br />

that these islands are known for.<br />

Hike - Poum-© Mégane<br />


Poe Lagoon © Ethan LI<br />

A holiday on wheels<br />

Similarly to hiking, New Caledonia has an intricate<br />

network of biking trails spreading across the southern<br />

parts of the main island up to the northern parts of<br />

the west coast. Some of the trails measure more<br />

than 50km and feature climbs of several hundred<br />

metres, with a mix of easier and more challenging<br />

terrains to traverse. You can opt for the biking trails<br />

in Bourail, which is also where the yearly biking<br />

event Megarando takes place or if you’re staying<br />

in Noumea, Les Boucles de Tina is just outside the<br />

capital and is the perfect place for a day of mountain<br />

biking without the need to venture far.<br />


adventure<br />

A vacation with the wind and the ocean<br />

With the largest lagoon in the world and being<br />

located in the South Pacific, it’s no surprise that<br />

New Caledonia has unparalleled ocean activities on<br />

offer. The waters surrounding the archipelago boast<br />

stunning scenery, great conditions and an abundance<br />

of water activities for every traveller. Those who want<br />

to explore the depths of the ocean have a range<br />

of options for diving, such as the shipwreck near<br />

Amédée Island or the underwater caves near Poum.<br />

During the cooler season between April - September,<br />

the visibility is the most clear. If you’re not an avid<br />

diver, snorkelling the islands provides an equally<br />

impressive experience where you explore spots such<br />

as the Isle of Pines and the underwater trail at Duck<br />

Island.<br />

Above the surface, there’s a wide range of activities<br />

you can do from kite surfing and sailing along<br />

Nouméa’s beaches, to surfing in Bourail and<br />

kayaking along the Forgotten Coast (the east coast<br />

of the mainland). The shallow, protected waters<br />

and sandy-bottomed beaches are ideal for riding<br />

the waves and during the warmer season, between<br />

November to March, the trade winds tend to be<br />

strong making for better conditions for experienced<br />

kitesurfers.<br />

86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#242</strong><br />

Drowned forest-© Asahi Shimbun Media Production<br />

The sports calendar for kitesurfing and sailing events is slammed<br />

each year, with some of the more popular events being the Groupama<br />

Race where experienced sailors from New Caledonia, New Zealand,<br />

Australia, Tahiti and worldwide race nonstop for 3 - 5 days around the<br />

main island.<br />

Events to coincide with your trip to New Caledonia in 2024:<br />

Biking events<br />

Shell Pacific Mégarando - 31 August - 1 September, 2024<br />

Ocean events<br />

Groupama Race - 9th June 2024<br />

Defi Wind Super Stars - November 2024 (exact date to be confirmed)<br />

Bluescope Race - November 2024 (exact date to be confirmed)<br />

Hiking/running events<br />

XTerra Trail Run - 11th May 2024<br />

New Caledonia Mobil Marathon - 25 August 2024<br />

Loyalty Islands Triathlon - November 2024 (exact date to be confirmed)<br />

For more information, visit https://www.newcaledonia.travel/nz<br />



x<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong>s in Paradise<br />

Discover adventure in The islands of Tahiti<br />

There are over 118 islands in Tahiti and an<br />

adventure to be found on every one.<br />

Tahiti is not just about the pristine water,<br />

although it is a major draw card, the interior is<br />

spectacular in its own right.<br />

The list of adventures to be found in this<br />

tropical paradise, are endless, and you don’t<br />

need to be an expert to have the full Tahitian<br />

experience.<br />

Here are a few of the highlights.<br />

Surfing in Teahupo'o: Known globally for<br />

its colossal waves, Teahupo'o is a haven for<br />

surfers seeking an adrenaline-fueled ride. This<br />

wave is not for the faint heart and only the<br />

experienced. However, you can catch a water<br />

taxi out to the break to see the surf – taxi is<br />

available from the local marina.<br />

88//WHERE The great ACTIONS interior; mountain SPEAK biking LOUDER with THAN Local Motion WORDS/<strong>#242</strong> @localmotiontour

Teahupo'o - amazing surfing<br />

Sunset paddle on a va'a - Moorea in the distance<br />

"Tahiti's allure extends beyond its idyllic beaches and romantic sunsets."<br />

Shark and Ray Snorkelling Safari: For a truly unique<br />

aquatic adventure, embark on a shark and ray snorkelling<br />

safari. Wade into the crystal-clear waters and come<br />

face-to-face with blacktip reef sharks, lemon sharks, and<br />

friendly rays. Local guides ensure a safe and unforgettable<br />

encounter with these mesmerising marine creatures.<br />

Hiking to Fautaua Waterfall: Tahiti's lush interior hides<br />

a hidden gem – the Fautaua Waterfall. Lace up your<br />

hiking boots and trek through dense rainforests, crossing<br />

streams and navigating challenging terrain. The reward at<br />

the end is the breathtaking sight and the refreshing mist of<br />

the Fautaua Waterfall.<br />

Mountain Bike Papenoo Valley: Discover the rugged<br />

beauty of Tahiti's interior on a mountain bike safari through<br />

Papenoo Valley. Traverse wild landscapes, riverbeds,<br />

and volcanic terrain as you explore the island's feral side.<br />

This off-road adventure provides a thrilling way to witness<br />

Tahiti's diverse ecosystems.<br />

Ziplining in Moorea: Hop on a ferry to the neighbouring<br />

island of Moorea and experience the thrill of ziplining<br />

through lush tropical landscapes. Soar above the treetops<br />

and enjoy panoramic views of turquoise lagoons and<br />

majestic mountains. Moorea's ziplining courses offer an<br />

adrenaline-pumping adventure with a scenic backdrop.<br />

Jet Skiing in Bora Bora's Lagoon: Bora Bora's iconic<br />

lagoon is not just for romantic getaways. Rent a jet ski and<br />

explore the lagoon's vibrant coral gardens and secluded<br />

motus. Feel the rush as you speed across the crystal-clear<br />

waters, surrounded by the stunning scenery of this worldfamous<br />

destination.<br />

Caving in Mara'a Grotto: Uncover the mysteries of<br />

Tahiti's underground world by exploring Mara'a Grotto.<br />

Equipped with a headlamp, descend into the caves and<br />

navigate through stalactites and stalagmites. This unique<br />

adventure provides a fascinating insight into the geological<br />

wonders hidden beneath the surface.<br />

Deep-Sea Fishing Excursion: For those seeking a<br />

maritime thrill, join a deep-sea fishing expedition in Tahiti's<br />

rich waters. Whether you're a seasoned angler or a<br />

novice, the opportunity to catch marlin, tuna, or mahi-mahi<br />

in the open ocean is an adventure not to be missed.<br />

Tahiti's allure extends beyond its idyllic beaches and<br />

romantic sunsets. For adventures, the island offers<br />

many adventurous activities that showcase its diverse<br />

landscapes and vibrant marine life. From mountain biking<br />

to exploring hidden caves and soaring above the lagoons,<br />

Tahiti is a playground for those seeking an unforgettable<br />

escapade in the heart of the South Pacific. Let Tahiti be<br />

the backdrop for your next adrenaline-filled journey.<br />

Ziplining in Moorea<br />


Make our island adventure<br />

playground your next stop<br />

And experience the world’s most welcoming adventure holiday<br />

E-Bike Rentals<br />

Skibiz @ The Alpine Centre, National Park Village<br />

Boots<br />

Packs<br />

Rainwear<br />

Hiking Poles<br />

Sleeping Bags<br />

All your hiking<br />

essentials<br />

available for hire!<br />

Hiking for Tots to Teens<br />

Family Style Accommodation<br />

Mountains to Sea Biking<br />

www.plateaulodge.co.nz / p.07 892 2993<br />

National Park Village / Tongariro National Park<br />

ebikes now available<br />

For local Mountains to Sea trails |<br />

Fishers Track | Marton Sash & Door and more…<br />

bookings and availability ph: 07 892 2717<br />

www.thealpinecentre.co.nz for online bookings<br />

Located in the heart of the Ruapehu District<br />

...the outdoors capital of the North Island!<br />

Gorgeous unique bespoke historic Vacation Home:<br />

Ideal for families and groups.<br />

Centrally located to: Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />

Pureora Timber Trail<br />

The mighty Whanganui River<br />

The Forgotten Highway (& Bridge to Nowhere)<br />

30Mins to Whakapapa & 60mins to Turoa<br />

Plus central to numerous other treks and trails<br />

(& Waitomo GlowWorm Caves en route from Auckland)<br />

A l p i n e R e s o r t<br />

only hotel operating within the tongariro national park<br />

Terrace Restaurant & Bar Open daily<br />

Tongariro Alpine Crossing Shuttles from the door<br />

Backpacker to Superior Family Accommodation<br />

Alpine Hiking Gear Hire on-site<br />

© Grégoire Le Bacon<br />

www.TheOldPostOfficeLodge.co.nz<br />

Skotel Alpine Resort | SkotelAlpineResort<br />

Ngauruhoe Place | Whakapapa Village, SH 48<br />

www.skotel.co.nz | info@skotel.co.nz<br />

+64 7 892 3719 | 0800 756 835

Luxury possum fur products,<br />

custom-made with passion<br />

and care in Whakatane, NZ<br />

More ways<br />

to have<br />

Fun<br />

this Summer<br />

Our new slides, with<br />

New Zealand’s first LED<br />

lights, are officially open.<br />

That means more ways<br />

to experience the future<br />

of fun this summer!<br />

Book your getaway now<br />

hanmersprings.co.nz<br />


Support<br />

muscle growth<br />

and strength,<br />

with our high<br />

purity Creatine.<br />

SHOP NOW<br />

Clothing | Hats | Socks | Cushions | Accessories & more<br />

e: info@bearcottage.co.nz | p: 07 308 9994<br />

www.bearcottage.co.nz<br />

Just 90 minutes north of Christchurch<br />

www.supps.nz | 0800 773 766<br />

GEAR TO<br />




RUN10023<br />

Arrive as a visitor and leave as a friend. No crime,<br />

no traffic and no queues. Relax or explore. Swim,<br />

fish and dive in the clearest waters in the pacific.<br />

The world’s only Dark Sky Nation welcomes you<br />

to the way life used to be; the way life should be.<br />

Contact: info@wildsidetravel.nz | 027 436 9025<br />

B U I L D Y O U R K I T :<br />

W W W . K E A O U T D O O R S . C O M

“Escape ordinary”<br />

Caring luxury | Local flavour | One of a kind<br />

Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage area available<br />

1191 Pukaki Street, Rotorua<br />

p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz<br />

S.A Shuttles are a specialists when it comes to Auckland Airport shuttle<br />

services. We pick-up passengers from the Airport and deliver to; hotels,<br />

motels, CBD and the suburbs (door to door). This service is available to<br />

meet every flight arriving into Auckland Airport.<br />

• BOOKED shuttle services to meet flight<br />

• On demand shuttle services for group bookings<br />

• Direct shuttle for individual needs<br />

• Corporate Transfers for Business Client<br />

We also do tours around the North Island | www.southaucklandshuttles.com | bookings@sashuttles.com | 0800 300 033 (Toll free)<br />

Home to a tiny island<br />

community of 212 people<br />







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