Issue No.26

26 Autumn/Winter

Bienvenue!

In these difficult times, we're aiming to keep your France travel dreams alive and take you

there through the pages of this issue. We're also connected daily on social media and if

there's a special place you'd like to see featured - just email or comment on Facebook,

Twitter or Instagram, or drop me a line and I'll see what I can do.

In this issue we chat to the lovely Kate Mosse, international best-selling author of

Labyrinth, about her favourite places in France and how they inspire her.

We know many of you are missing your Provence trips and we hope you'll enjoy this

Provence special issue as we take a look at the hidden gems and most beautiful villages.

Disover why the French mountains are an idea place to rejuvenate and recharge your

batteries in the summer. And, find out what makes Puy du Fou theme park so special -

there is nothing ordinary about it and it's definitely not just for children.

We bring a taste of France to you through great recipes. And we've got some super

giveaways in this issue including a gorgeous set of luxury French bedding. Don't forget to

subscribe to the magazine as we have a very special Christmas issue coming up with more

really special prizes, style guides and recipes for the festive season.

If you dream of moving to France, we've been working hard behind the scenes to create a

series of expert guides to regions, departments, areas and cities - find them on website

and in this issue we showcase Pas-de-Calais and southwest France...

Wishing you and yours well from my little pigsty office,

contents

Features

Provence Special

We explore the most beautiful villages,

the hidden gems and wide open natural

beauty of Provence...

8 Perfect pitstops in Provence

Martine Bertin-Peterson shares four places

for a perfect Provence experience: Gigondas,

Vaison-la-Romaine, Pays de Sault and Gorges

La Nesque

16 Spotlight on Apt

Janine Marsh takes a walk on the sweet side

in the town that’s famous for its sugary

treats...

26 20 Bijoux villages of Provence

Emily Durand shares the villages and areas

where natural beauty shines through:

Brantes, Mont Ventoux, Simiane-la-Rotonde,

Lourmarin, St Remy de Provence

36 Tourrettes-sur-Loup

Chantille de Lincourt visits the pretty town,

known for inspiring the song “Autumn

Leaves”

Features continued

40 Les Gets, Haute-Savoie

Pure mountain air and summer fun in a

stunning part of the French Alps...

48 Kate Mosse’s France

Author Kate Mosse shares her favourite

places in France and tells how they inspire

her writing...

58 Puy du Fou theme park

No ordinary theme park, part illusion, part

theatre, part technical wizardry – 100%

magic...

68 Rocamadour – the rock of

miracles

Amy McPherson goes walk about at the

extraordinary UNESCO site...

Regular

72 Your Photos

The most popular photos on our Facebook

page.

76 Fabulous Give Aways

Brilliant books and gorgeous luxury French

bedding - you've got to be in it to win it!

78 Living in France: Pas-de-Calais

Live in France - work in the UK...

102 My Good Life in France

Autumn in France, a time of remembrance

and celebration....

Recipes

Delicious French dishes and the best

wines to pair with them...

Expert Advice

84 The Cost of living in France

Finance expert Jennie Poate reviews French

day to day costs.

86 Moving to France?

Here are the basics of banking.

90 The Pyrenees Orientales

Beach and mountain lovers will find it’s a great

place to live.

94 Coq au Vin

An absolute classic which it’s claimed has

it’s roots in the days of the Romans…

96 Salmon en Papilotte

Light and fresh, and very easy to make...

98 Pithiviers

A delicious almond and rum pie that's a

French classic.

100 Crémets

This easy to make creamy dessert has been

called “a feast of the Gods”…

Perfect pitstops

in the prettiest

parts of Provence

Martine Bertin-Peterson shares four places

for a perfect Provence experience: ...

Pays de Sault

There are few more breath-taking sights

than fields of lavender in bloom as observed

from the heights of the village of Sault. I

love to start with an early morning 90-

minute walk through the deep purple fields

on the Lavender Road. This 5km sign posted

road is a treat for the senses and offers

plenty of opportunities for Instagramworthy

photos along the way. Be sure to

add some time to take a stroll through the

narrow streets of medieval of Sault. The

weekly market, which dates back to the

early 16th century takes place on

Wednesday morning. Consider taking a tour

(and tasting) of the Boyer nougat factory, a

visit to one of the lavender distilleries or a

demonstration of traditional soap-making at

the Savonnerie de Provence.

A picturesque drive on the D1 will take you

from Sault to the tiny hamlet of Monieux.

There’s not much to see apart from a 12th

century bell tower and some 17th century

churches but what’s really special here is the

delicious lunch at Les Lavandes. Reserve

ahead and snag a table outdoors near the

statue of Anesca (La Nesque). There are two

“menus” - the Saveurs et Senteurs (flavors

and aromas) menu and the perfect-for-lunch

3-course menu du jour (both at a great

price). Dishes focus on local truffles, honey,

mushrooms, lamb and “petit épeautre”, the

ancient regional grain currently gaining great

popularity. There’s also an a la carte menu.

During lunch, you will undoubtedly see a

number of cyclists stopping in town to fill

their water bottles taking a brief break

before tackling the steep and winding roads.

Gorges La Nesque

Although much of the Provencal countryside

is made up of gently rolling hills, vineyards,

wheat and lavender fields, the Vaucluse area

has a wilder more rugged side. The relaxing

lunch at Les Lavandes prepares you for the

drive along the spectacular gorge of La

Nesque. Start your adventure on the D942

which affords arresting views of La Nesque

river and into the deep canyon clefts. The

D942 however, is not for the faint of heart.

A classic “balcony road” so called because of

the lanes cut into the sides of the cliffs, the

road is much loved by cyclists for its twists

and turns. It is a very narrow road and

definitely not for those who are afraid of

heights.

There are many spots where the road is

really only wide enough for one car so keep

your fingers crossed that you don’t meet

another vehicle coming in the opposite

direction! Fortunately, the D942 is not

heavily traveled and you can drive at a very

leisurely pace while you take in the dizzying

vistas during the 22 km drive. Stop at the

Castellaras viewpoint, the highest point of

the gorge at 872 meters (2861 feet) and

admire the Rocher du Cire (Rock of Wax) so

called because of the layers of wax coating

from the hives of wild bees. You’ll find a slab

honoring the Provencal poet Frederic Mistral

who celebrated the legend of the Rock.

End your journey at the small village of

Villes-sur-Auzon with its ancient fountains

and ochre houses. Unwind with an apero at

one of the small cafés. If you’re there in late

July or early August, you can enjoy worldclass

music for free (or for a nominal fee) at

the annual Villes-sur-Auzon jazz festival.

Vaison-la-Romaine

Vaison-la-Romaine can be viewed as two

separate towns - the lower, modern and

more commercial town, and the upper old

town across the Ouveze river. Both parts are

worth exploring. It’s especially nice in the

early Fall when the weather is mild and the

surrounding wine-growing region hums with

harvest activity.

Start your morning with a café crème and

croissant at a local cafe in the “modern” part

of town before touring the exceptional

Roman ruins. Unless your visit coincides

with the peak tourist season, you are likely

to have these ruins almost to yourself, an

extraordinary experience, rarely replicated

at other Roman sites of this stature and

importance. The two “quarters” - Quartier

de Puymin and Quartier de la Villasse will

allow you to imagine life in the 1st century

AD. The large urban dwelling, the house of

Apollon Laure, undoubtedly a very wealthy

resident, with its atrium, library, reception

hall and private bath contrasts with the other

residential area featuring “homes to rent” for

less affluent citizens. The Quartier de la

Villasse, with its colonnaded streets, shops

and baths provides an intimate view of

commercial and social life in the Roman era.

Don’t miss the Peacock Villa with its recently

excavated mosaics.

From the Quartier de la Villasse, cross the

Roman bridge and climb to the Medieval

upper town. The walk is a bit strenuous but

you’ll be rewarded by shady squares,

picturesque, narrow streets and, if you make

it to the top, a breath-taking view of Mont

Ventoux.

Gigondas

After a morning of touring, a well-deserved

lunch break is called for. I like to head south

to Gigondas, a 20-minute drive past rows

and rows of vineyards and the pretty wine

villages of Seguret and Sablet. If you have

ever wondered what it might be like to step

into a Renoir painting, plan your lunch break

at Les Florets, a family-owned hotel and

restaurant. Les Florets serves elegant meals

on its sun-dappled patio with breath-taking

views of the rocky limestone peaks of the

Dentelles de Montmirail.

Michelin-starred L’Oustalet in the heart of

Gigondas, favored by foodies and oenophiles,

has a bistro on the site of its original

restaurant. Its higher-end gastronomic

venture is in a different location in town. The

bistro’s outdoor dining area features a tree

literally growing in the center of one of the

tables. Regardless of whether you are eating

indoors or out, you can expect a refined

cuisine and excellent service.

The area is also rich in picturesque spots for

an impromptu picnic. The large weekly

market in Vaison is held on Tuesday morning

and provides everything you might need for

a tasty spread among the vines. Don’t forget

to stop in at Lou Canestou, a marvelous

cheese shop whose owner, Josiane Deal, has

been recognized among the prestigious

Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (best

tradespeople in France).

Martine, who was born in France but lives in

the US, hosts the most fabulous small group

Taste of France tours in Provence (as well as

Italy and Portugal). Her 30 years of hosting

travel groups through Europe and love of

cooking and culture ensure that guests on

her tours experience a side of Provence

rarely accessible without years of know-how,

contacts and experience. From cooking in

the homes of local chefs, exclusive vineyards

visits and exploring the most stunning

villages of Provence, these are tours of which

memories are made. Find out more at www.

goutetvoyage.com

Spotlight on Apt

Janine Marsh takes a walk on the sweet side in

the town that’s famous for its sugary treats...

Apt in the department of Vaucluse, Provence

is a largish town with an inner old town. It’s

famous for its crystallised fruit, is awash with

gorgeous little shops and home to a fabulous

Saturday street market. Founded by the

Romans in the 1st century BC, it’s in the

heart of the Luberon Nature Park, between

the mountains of Vaucluse and Luberon.

What to see and do in Apt

Me, I’m happy to wander the sun-baked

streets, ogle the private mansion houses,

laze around the tinkling fountains and

cooldown in the shade of one of the many

little treelined squares. The town is great for

those who love to browse the boutiques,

galleries and art shops, take a break at a café,

eat a lavender ice cream and contemplate

how it’s possible to make an ice cream taste

so heavenly. But there’s plenty more to do

for a day in Apt including a museum of

history and archaeology

Foodie heaven

It probably won’t surprise you to discover

that Apt is classified a “site remarquable du

gout” (a place of wonderful tastes).

Saturday morning is market day year-round

in Apt. It’s one of the biggest in the area and

a classified “Exceptional market.” If you don't

want to stick out like a tourist get there by

8am, and definitely not after 9.30am! Apt

market has been going for some 900 years.

Incredible to think when you stand there

picking out the most delicious honey and

jams, herbs and cheeses, that in the 13th

century, our ancestors were stood there

doing the same thing! Normally quite sleepy,

Apt bursts into life on Saturday mornings, get

there early if you need to park your car.

Apt is an absolutely treat for fans of street

markets.

Apt is apt to bring out your inner cake

monkey

Apt is apt to send the sweet-toothed into a

frenzy. When one Matthew Wood, a British

pudding maker, visited Apt in the

mid-1800s – he fell head over heels for the

glacé cherries and candied fruit produced

there. He started importing the sweet stuff,

adding it to cakes and gaining a reputation

for the best of the best. To this day, Apt

exports most of its candied, or glacé, cherries

to the UK, and is famous throughout the

world for the quality of its candied fruit.

But the history of sweetened fruit in France

goes back much further. The Popes in

Provence, with their court based in Avignon

in the 15th century, were said to be fond of

crystallised fruit from here.

In Provence candied fruit is included in the

famous “13 desserts”, a Christmas tradition.

It’s served at the end of a meal as a treat. It’s

used in cakes (especially the Galette des Rois),

and in cooking up and down the land. And

added to liqueurs for extra flavour and to

cocktails for extra sweetness.

When you’re in Apt, you’ll see plenty of shops

offering the colourful, shining-like-diamonds

fruits of all kinds. Apricots, pears, angelica,

cherries, pineapple, clementines, figs, lemons,

melon, plums, strawberries and more are

preserved in sugar, their flavours heightened.

People come from miles around to get their

sweets here. And if you want to add more

calories – dip the candied treats in melted

chocolate like the locals do!

Find out more at the Musée de l’Aventure

Industrielle, which boasts a whole section on

crystallised fruit. It also has a section

covering traditional faïence d’Apt ceramics

and crockery.

apt.fr/Le-Musee-de-l-Aventure

Treats and sweets

Head to rue des Marchands for yet more

treats. It’s easy to find with its landmark

16th century clock tower in Gothic

Provencal style with a distinctive lacy dome

looming at one end of the street

Patisserie Rousset offers drool-worthy

crystallised fruit, nougat, confectionary and

ice cream.

Passion Chocolat is where Chef Alain

Bouchard makes gateaux to make your eyes

pop. People come from miles around for his

awesome macarons and gorgeous cakes like

the Galapian d’Apt. Bouchard created this

speciality in 1994 in honour of the candied

fruits of the town.

And, according to local Martine DiCicco, the

best bakery/cake shop in town is Au Pierrot

Blanc 36 rue des Marchands. The family

business specialises in lavender and their

grandfather invented the first lavender icecream.

“They produce lavender cookies,

lavender chocolate cake, lavender

marshmallows and a lavender flower

baguette which goes perfectly with goat

cheese.”

Anyone who likes all things sugary and sweet

will love visiting this town not just for its

sun-kissed streets, it’s wonderful cafés and

gourmet food shops but for the local sweet

speciality…

Photos: Martine DiCicco

Where to eat out in Apt

There are plenty of restaurants and cafes in

the town and sitting under the shade of a

leafy plane tree on a sunny day with

something chilled and locally made is one of

life's great pleasures. Warm summer

evenings are enhanced with tapas like dishes

on terraces. And on Saturdays, market day,

the restaurants buzz with life as the locals

from miles around come to town.

Locals love: Restaurant Chez Sylla whre the

locals meet and indulge. In the cool wine

cellar enjoy seasonal dishes, superb salads,

great quality farmhouse cheeses and fine

breads. The sommelier is known for his great

advice on wines!

406, avenue de Lançon - 84400 Apt

Don’t miss: Restaurant Carnot on the quaint

Place Carnot, by the swan fountain,

surrounded by 17th and 18th century

buildings. Delicious home-cooked dishes and

friendly, the chef always comes to meet

guests and chat – locals say “it’s like eating

at home.” A true taste of Provence.

35 place Carnot 84400 Apt

Take home a souvenir of Apt

The clay soil and local ochre deposits led to

Apt becoming a centre of pottery. Every year

a pottery market is held in mid-August in the

park, shaded by the tall trees. To this day

there are numerous artisan pottery

workshops in the town. Christine Jouval-

Marcel of Apt Faience acquired her

technique training with renowned craftsmen.

She creates mixed clays, marble ware and

“flammé” enamelling and adds a feminine and

contemporary touch to unique 18th century

know-how and tradition to produce the most

beautiful pottery. apt-faience-luberon.fr

For great gifts to take home, try Le Temps

d’un Eté. The owner Marie Laure stocks

beautiful handicraft objects from all over the

South. From fine craft pieces, ceramics, paper

art, jewellery, silk work, fashion accessories,

wooden furniture – be warned, there’s lots to

fall in love with. 53 rue Eugène Brunel.

Head off the beaten track to Fondation

Blachère, an unusual art centre. It’s in an

industrial zone, where the Blachère company,

European leader of festive illuminations, are

based. With a focus on contemporary African

art it also has a store which stocks fabulous

lighting products for the home and garden

and a boutique selling African crafts and

designs. www.fondationblachere.org

Pop Apt on your must-see list...

Apt is a great base for visiting the Luberon

and Vaucluse areas. And for a wander,

sample, browse, taste, sniff and enjoy a seat

at a charming café in the sun and watch the

world go by… You’ll go home with lasting

memories of the sweetest fruits, lavender

bread and goats cheese - a potted view of

Provence in one small town.

Apt Tourism: en.luberon-apt.fr

Vaucluse Provence: provenceguide.com

Photo: Raina Stinson

Bijou

x villages of Provence

From exquisite and bijoux villages to the areas of outstanding

natural beauty and secret spots where you can view the

countryside as Van Gogh did – local Emily Durand reveals

some of the most stunning secret spaces of Provence…

Photos: Raina Stinson

Provence is rightly famous for its enchanting villages and lavender fields.

But there’s a secret side to Provence. A side that is known mostly only to

the locals.

We asked local Emily Durand, who lives in and runs fabulous tours of

Provence, to tell us about some of her favourite hidden gems.

However, Provence has so much more to

enchant. If you visit the highest mountain in

Provence, Mont Ventoux at 1912 m (6269

ft), the climate is a bit cooler and the flora

has reflects the alpine influence.

On the north side there sits a tiny village

called Brantes. With no more than 83

inhabitants and far removed from the

popular tourist destinations that receive daily

tour buses through the tourist season,

Brantes seems suspended from its mountain

perch. From here, you have impressive views

over the north side of Mont Ventoux. And

this side of the mountain is nothing like the

south side that most people see. There are

no roads, just a few trails crisscrossing its

slopes – irresistible to keen hikers. Here the

peaks often stay snowy until early spring.

Brantes is a Medieval village with houses

built into the rocky slopes. It’s a serene place,

it’s mountain location and the river valley

below leave a lasting impression on all who

visit. There’s been a village here for at least

1000 years, and at the top are remains of a

Medieval castle which once belonged to the

powerful Les Baux family. Yes, the same

family from the village Les Baux de

Provence – one of some 70 fortress castles

they owned in the south of France

Brantes was a village that time forgot. The

residents only got running water in their

homes in 1958. Before that they used they

did their washing at the community wash

basin!

Beautiful Brantes

When people think of Provence they

consider the Mediterranean climate. The

sight of Aleppo pine trees opening up like

lush green umbrellas, scrubland abundantly

filled with aromatic rosemary and thyme,

vast limestone cliffs falling to the valleys or

to the turquoise coloured water of the

Mediterranean Sea…

What I love most about Brantes is the way

everything melts together in truly beautiful

harmony. The cobblestone lanes seem to

reach out to the horizon, the jagged rooftops

float up to the sky. The flowers that clamber

over the facades of ancient buildings and the

breath-taking backdrop of the north Ventoux

ridge, a valley away, but it feels as though

you could reach your arm out to touch it. I

love to take visitors here to discover the

botanical paths and forage for herbs to have

with lunch…


Magnificent Mont Ventoux

Mont Ventoux is the highest point in

Provence. If you’re a fan of the Tour de

France on TV, the chances are you’ll have

seen this mountain – it’s steep inclines have

been included in 16 races from 1958 –

2016.

A road was created in 1879 and a weather

station established on its slopes. It feels like

wherever you are in Provence you can see

Mont Ventoux and its “steeple”, transmission

pole. In fact the locals have nicknamed the

mountain “the Eye” as it feels like it’s

watching over everyone. Though the peaks

do get a covering of snow from winter to

spring, it looks snow-covered year round

thanks to the limestone which reflects the

sunlight.

Getting to the top of the Mont Ventoux is

more than a drive. It’s an experience. You

leave village life behind and emerge into a

lunar-like clearing among the trees. There are

more than 400 types of flora and fauna and

spotting mountain flowers is a joy. The views

circle around you and step out into the cool

fresh high altitude air, even in the height of

summer.


Superb Simiane-la-Rotonde

Don’t miss a visit to one of the oldest

Medieval castles in Provence. Simiane-le-

Rotonde’s fortress castle is unique. It has a

round, dome-like Roman style donjon, that’s

around 1000 years old. The views from this

hilltop village overlook a valley of fields of

clary sage herb (photo above), lavender, spelt,

chickpeas, and sheep prairies. It’s like a living

natural patchwork of textures and colours.

To the east, on a clear day you can see as far

as the jagged peaks of the Alpes.

Along its cobblestone lanes, houses from the

16th to 18th centuries make you feel as if

you’ve stepped back in time. It was once

famous for its glassware, tile making and

cloth weaving making it a prosperous and

desirable place to live. A few kilometres away

is a beautiful valley where a sundial, carved

into the rock in prehistoric times can still be

seen. In the sandstone floor, egg-like

formations gave birth to the belief that the

goddess of fertility laid her eggs here. In the

12th century, Cistercian monks arrived to live

in this sacred spot. In 1660 they founded an

abbey which has been restored. It has a most

beautiful garden with 500 varieties of roses.

And, in the 12th century Romanesque

church an acoustic surprise can be

experienced - if you know the right people!

Lovely Lourmarin

Unlike many of Provence’s lovely villages,

Lourmarin isn’t atop a hill but instead the

oldest part of the village sits on a mound,

where you’ll see remains of an 11th century

watchtower which is easy to reach.

Lourmarin sits at the foot of the Luberon

Mountain chain. When you take a picture of

the village you’ll see the Luberon clearly

filling the foreground of your photo. The

passage over the mountain starts in

Lourmarin then winds through a geological

crack forming the “Little Luberon” and

“Large Luberon”. This gorge has long been a

crossing place and used to be considered the

most dangerous passage in Provence. Trade

to and from Marseille passed this way and

the natural caves along the route were a

great hiding place for bandits.

way it is laid out with so much space and

light between the historical treasures. The

village, Renaissance castle, and the early

19th century Protestant Temple are

separated from each other by a prairie,

private gardens, olive groves and a soccer

field. Taking a stroll in Lourmarin reveals a

perfect blend of nature, monuments, open

spaces, and charming little boutiques.

Many have loved its charms – French writer

Albert Camus bought a house here 1958

after winning the Nobel Prize for literature

(1957 - The Plague). He didn’t care for

celebrity life in Paris and found the tranquil

lifestyle he craved in Lourmarin. Peter Mayle,

author of many books on Provence including

“ A Year in Provence” (1989), also had a

home here.

What I love most about Lourmarin is the

Stunning Saint-Remy-de-Provence

Even if you spent two weeks in Provence,

you wouldn’t run out of villages to visit. But

whatever you do, don’t leave St-Remy-de-

Provence, next to the Alpilles mountains, off

your list. It is a popular town (maybe not so

secret) however you will feel mesmerised by

the Provencal charm and character. And it

does have a secret spot for wonderful views

Les Alpilles, like Mont Ventoux and the

Luberon Mountains, run east to west and are

characterized by limestone up-thrusts

formed about 100 million years ago. Saint-

Remy-de-Provence, or as the locals say, Saint

Remy, is located at the base of very long and

jagged limestone deposits which, with a bit

of imagination, look like dragon teeth!

The town is laid out in a circle, surrounded

by tall plane trees. Shady squares and streets

that are pedestrianised make this a great

place to relax and enjoy a glass of local wine

and watch the locals going about their day.

Just above the town centre is the perfect

viewpoint for lovers of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Many of his most well-known artworks were

created during the time he spent in the

asylum at Saint Remy. Unlike other patients,

Van Gogh was allowed to venture beyond

the protective walls. Have you ever noticed

the steeple in Starry Night? Remember his

series of olive trees and the jagged

mountains in the background? The sensory

world of Van Gogh surrounds you in this

magical spot above Saint Remy.

Join Emily and discover Provence like a local

on a variety of qunique and fabulous tours:

Spring tour, Lavender tour, photographic tour

and more... yourprivateprovence.com

Chantille de Lincourt visits the

pretty town, known for inspiring the

song “Autumn Leaves”

The joie de vivre of

Tourrettes-sur-loup

Why visit Tourrettes-sur-

Loup?

For its picturesque character

If you love towns with bucket loads of

character that are impossibly pretty, you’ll

love Tourrettes-sur-Loup. A quintessential

small southern France medieval village. It’s

just a few kilometers from Vence.

Perched on a rocky outcrop, and

surrounded by cliffs, it offers breathtaking

views over the valley. To get the best view

of the village planted on its rock, you

should visit via Le Bar-sur-Loup road.

For its beautifully restored white

stone facades

Tourrettes-sur-Loup is a fortified village

arranged around a 15th century castle.

Houses are spread out from the central

half-moon shaped “Grand Rue”. You have

to get lost in its pretty narrow streets to

discover secret Tourrettes and its pretty

white stone houses. There are vaulted

passageways, stepped passages, streets

bordered by pretty flower baskets, small

squares, and many artists' studios and

restaurants.

For its sweetness of life

Tourrettes-sur-Loup exudes joie de vivre.

The village has inspired many artists and

lured celebrities seeking tranquility and

beauty. To stop at a café for drink, visit

small shops, indulge at a lovely restaurant,

some in shady cellars, is a true joy. The

"Grand Rue", the heart of the historic

Autumn Leaves was composed here

In the 1940s, French poet and screenwriter

Jacques Prévert rented a house in

Tourrettes-sur-Loup. Together with his

friend Joseph Kosma, a composer, he wrote

the film “Les Portes de la Nuit”. In the movie,

Yves Montand hummed along to a tune

named "Les Feuilles Mortes". The song

crossed the Atlantic and became a jazz

standard. Johnny Mercer wrote the English

lyrics and gave it the title "Autumn Leaves".

It has been covered by many huge names

from Bing Crosby, Chet Baker, Nat King

Cole, Tony Bennett, Miles Davis, Doris Day,

Frank Sinatra and Barbara Streisand to Eric

Clapton.

This song is recognized as "the most

important non-American standard" and has

been recorded some 1400 times by

mainstream and modern jazz musicians. It’s

the eighth most-recorded tune by jazzmen.

The Village of Violets

For over a century, the village has been

famous for its cultivation of violets, a type

commonly known as "Victoria". The “Violet

Village”, is the only village in France to grow

them so intently.

The violets grow all year round. The spring

flowers are picked and used in confectionery.

In summer, the leaf is cut and sent to Grasse

for use in the perfume industry. In autumn

and winter, the flowers are picked to form

bouquets.

Since 1952, the village has organized an

annual “Fête des Violettes” (Flower Festival).

This celebration usually takes place in March

to mark the end of the season and the

arrival of spring.

Don't miss:

The Church of Saint-Gregory

Built in the 12th century, the Church was

modified in the 16th and 19th centuries. It

has a Romano-Renaissance style entrance

and houses remarkable furniture made up of

paintings, sculptures and altars.

La Bastide aux Violettes

“La Bastide aux Violettes” museum is

dedicated to the cultivation of violets. You

can visit the flower greenhouses between

November and March and discover the

methods of cultivation.

Open all year from Tuesday to Saturday; entry

is free.

Les Gets

The perfect summer playground to

recharge your batteries in the French Alps

says Janine Marsh

Les Gets is part of the Portes du Soleil, one of the biggest ski areas in the world. But it’s not

just a winter destination. When the snow melts and the white slopes turn green, it’s the

perfect summer playground with a host of activities from hiking to biking, culture, fabulous

restaurants, spas, invigorating mountain air and a brand new, unique in Europe, year-round

sound and light show.

When I told my neighbour (I live in a small village in northern France) that I was going to Les

Gets for a few days, she assured me I’d feel like a new woman with the fresh mountain air.

“It’s special, pure and clean, you’ll be whizzing up those mountain slopes in no time” she

said. Of course I dismissed this as French folly. I took the train from Paris to Geneva,

hopped on a Skiddy Gonzales transfer shuttle and alighted frazzled and weary. My

neighbour was right though – it took just a matter of hours to feel rejuvenated, refreshed

and revitalised. There’s definitely something in that mountain air…

Hikes, bikes and spas - Summer in Les Gets

Hike

Majestic mountains surround the village of

Les Gets and they’re perfect for hiking and

biking for all levels. There are chair lifts and

cable cars working throughout the summer

which makes reaching the summit a bit of a

doddle. You’ll get stunning views over Mont

Blanc and scenery that looks like something

out of your imagination.

I took the Mont Chéry gondola lift and then

hiked about an hour on the Chavannes

slopes up to the restaurant Les Chavannes.

It took me longer because I stopped so many

times to soak up the views. I passed herds of

goats and cows wearing bells which sounded

like an orchestra of elves. There are lush

forests and meadows of wildflowers,

cascades of fauna and flora and waterfalls

which look like a curtain of diamonds.

Traditional style chalets dot the slopes and

paragliders float overhead. The summer sun

shone down but high up in the mountains,

it’s still cool. You can get a map of hikes from

the tourist office (they’ll even suggest the

best picnic spots) and follow the marked

footpaths or go with a guide. There’s a little

tourist train that stops at the restaurant too,

though it isn’t frequent.

There are lakes you can take a dip in, secret

chapels, cheese farms and fabulous potters

in the hills, plenty to tempt as you wander.

Bike

Les Gets is heaven for cyclists. It’s reputed to

be the best mountain biking terrain in the

alps. Road bike, mountain bikes, enduro and

e-bikes – you’ll find it all here.

Janine Marsh bikes!

Les Gets Bikepark has more than 128km of

marked trails, good for all levels from kids

upwards on green, blue, red and black trails

for those who are really really keen. That’s

not me. I hired an e-bike and protective

gear, slung the bike on a chair lift to take

away the real slog of going up the mountain

and enjoyed a slow ride overlooking the

most spectacular scenery. My friends on the

other hand, dare devils and thrill seekers,

hired top of the range bikes and cycled part

of the Tour de France route, loved Les Gets

Bikepark including the black runs, sped

downhill and went all out enduro. I met up

with them when they finished, there was

plenty for me to do including shopping, the

shops here are fabulous, while they were

having the ride of their lives.

Spas

There are several spas in the town, perfect

for relaxing muscles after a day of fresh air. I

went to the new Les Sources du Chéry. It’s

smart but friendly and has everything you

need to chill – steam room, pool, sauna,

jacuzzi, salt cave and for the brave – a cold

water well! Due to Covid-19 precautions,

entry to the spa resources was strictly

controlled and it was a bit odd wearing a

mask in a spa but – whatever it takes.

www.sourcesduchery.com/en/

The quirky Museum of

Mechanical Music

I didn’t expect to have a cultural

intermission in the mountains I must be

honest. But when I saw the signs for

the Museum of Mechanical Music I

couldn’t resist going to find out what it

was all about. What an amazing

surprise. The museum is big and it’s

utterly fascinating. 800 exhibits ranging

from organs to music boxes,

automatons (I loved Accordeo Boy!)

and mechanical pianos, enough to

make any music lover go (lady) gaga.

There’s also an incredible Roger and

Gallet collection of automatons, the

sort that would have been displayed in

the poshest shop windows of Paris. I’d

recommend at least two hours to see it

all and definitely to take a guided tour

so that you can see the instruments in

action.

www.musicmecalesgets.org

Alta Lumina

Climbing a gentle hill, past a small lake and

approaching a forest from which soft blue

and green lights lit up the sky, I had no idea

what to expect from my visit to Alta Lumina

in Les Gets. Lights, sure, lumina is a bit of a

give away. But other than that, I was

clueless. My friends at the tourist office had

been invited to test drive this new attraction

when it opened to the public for the first

time at the end of July 2020, and they hadn’t

stopped talking about it. “We’re not telling

you” they said when I asked them what it

was like. “You have to go see it for yourself.”

Alta Lumina opens when it’s dark. It’s

described as an “immersive, multisensory

experience that combines the poetics of

light, music, imagery, set design and

interactivity.” But if you asked me to

describe it in just one word I’d say “magical”.

Like being in a fairy tale

You enter the forest to hear bird song and

ethereal music and then follow the story of a

travelling music maker who, in his hot air

balloon, travels beyond the mountains. A

path takes you past the most extraordinary

light installations. I was absolutely convinced

it was a real actor in a hot air balloon taking

off right next to me when suddenly it

disappeared in the trees! There are what

look like thousands of flowers made of light.

Trees drip with shards of light like a torrent

of rain if it were made of sunbeams. I heard a

little girl say “I never want this to end”. But

this isn’t just for kids though they will love it.

If poetry were light and music – then this

enchanted forest is a spectacular sonnet.

If you ever read a fairy tale as a kid and

wondered what it would be like to be “in” a

land of fairy tales, I think this is how it would

look, sound and feel.

This is the only lumina night walk of its kind

in Europe though there are several around

the world. It’s a year-round attraction and

you can buy tickets on line: www.altalumina.

com/en/

Les Gets foodie scene

Apres ski isn’t just for the ski season, it’s all

year round in Les Gets! There are more than

40 restaurants and bars in the village and a

wide range of styles from vegan to

gastronomic.

There are plenty of shops in the town selling

fabulous food for self-catering.

Locals Love: L’as de Neiges, relaxed, cosy,

friendly and fun, eat in or take away A really

talented chef and team make this an

absolute stand out restaurant. Fabulous

pizzas and pasta as well as local Savoyard

dishes with the chef’s modern take. Superb.

asdesneiges-lesgets.com

Push the boat out: Vinna Annapurna

restaurant and wine bar. Lovely sunny

terrace, smart interior and delicious dishes.

vina-annapurna.com

Vegan/vegetarian/healthy cuisine: Wild Beets

Café - Breakfast or brunch, salad boxes, and

wraps and dinner. Quite simply –

scrumptious. wildbeetskitchen.com

Don’t miss: Les Durs à Cuire is funky and fun

with a fabulous menu. The restaurant calls

itself an Alpine speakeasy! Tartiflette and

fondue are on the menu but also gourmet

dishes. 479 Rue du Ctre, 74260 Les Gets

Recommended: Restaurant du Lac – on the

slopes overlooking a lake and kids float park,

next to Alta Lumina, the salads and burgers

and generous and delicious.

lesgets.com/details/le-restaurant-du-lac

Where to stay

There’s plenty of accommodation in the

village. It’s very French in Les Gets, more so

than its near neighbour Morzine (just a

couple of km away) but there are plenty of

hotels and numerous chalets and apartments

I stayed in an utterly gorgeous chalet in the

centre of town. And when I say gorgeous I’m

honestly not exaggerating. Called Urban

Corniche, a nod to the fact that it’s an

“urban” escape in the mountains and situated

right in the main hub of Les Gets, it had a hot

tub and sauna on the balcony. It had a grand

piano, its own bar and an indoor swing. A

pool table and chill out zone. The welcome

pack included Champagne and snacks. There

was ski/boot storage and plenty of room for

up to 10 people. It was luxurious, elegant and

sophisticated but so comfy. I felt pampered

and spoiled - and slept like a baby.

If you want special – you’ll absolutely get

that here. You know when you stay

somewhere and never want to leave. This is

one of those place. hunterchalets.com

Why go to Les Gets in the summer

Loads of activities, you’ll never be bored, and

perfect for families, even teens! Nature at its

best with spectacular scenery. Brilliant

wellness break with spas, cycling, hiking,

swimming and sports galore in the purest

mountain air. Friendly folk, fabulous for

foodies and seriously fun…

Les Gets Tourism: lesgets.com/en/

Useful Information

www.lesgetsbikeschool.com: a professional

mountain bike instruction school with highly

qualified instructors and guides who help

riders to progress and learn new techniques.

They offer group and private lessons.

Road Cycle Hire: www.toricomorzine.com

supply pedals and bikes with helmets. spare

inner tube, cycle levers and pumps. Torico

also have downhill, enduro and e-bikes for

rent.

Road Cycle Guide: buzzperformance.com

Triathlon, cycling, swimming and fitness

training. Try the Cold de la Ramaz guided

tour if you really want to experience the

buzz!

Photo: Ruth Crafer

Best selling author Kate Mosse

chats to Janine Marsh about her

favourite places in France

Kate Mosse is an international bestselling novelist, playwright and non-fiction writer. The

author of eight novels and short story collections - including the multimillion-selling

Languedoc Trilogy (Labyrinth, Sepulchre and Citadel) and Gothic fiction The Winter Ghosts

and The Taxidermist’s Daughter, which she is adapting for the stage – her books have been

translated into thirty-seven languages and published in more than forty countries. She is

the Founder Director of the Women’s Prize for Fiction and a regular interviewer for theatre

& fiction events. Kate divides her time between Chichester in West Sussex and

Carcassonne in south-west France.

Many of Kate Mosse’s books feature France, so we thought we’d find out her favourite

French places and ask how they’ve inspired her…

Photo: Sebastien Carles, Carcsassonne Tourisme

How does your love of France and some of

the experiences you have translate into

your books? I remember reading that the

great writer Victor Hugo visited to a town

called Montreuil-sur-Merin northern France,

he saw a tearful woman leave a church -

and she became Fantine in Les Misérables!

Well, that's a lovely question and it's also a

really lovely example because my son is

playing Marius in the current UK &

International tour of Les Mis! All my stories

come from “place”, the landscape itself is a

key character. It's exactly like that Victor

Hugo example of my being somewhere

particular and seeing something startling...

It could be the way the shadow falls on the

side of a church or a solitary tree set on its

own in the middle of a field, so I'd start

wondering where the rest of the wood

went! Or an old stone shaped like a chair…

The landscape of Languedoc in the south

west of France - Carcassonne in particular -

is the landscape of my imagination. I first

visited Carcassonne more than 30 years ago

and fell head over heels in love. Now, as

then, it feels like a magical place, a stage set.

Everywhere, there are vibrant stories of the

past being whispered in the landscape and

just waiting to be told.

Carcassonne and Toulouse feature prominently

in my Languedoc Trilogy, as well as my

new series, The Burning Chambers. I suppose

my Fantine moment was seeing all the roads

in the heart of the Bastide (the 14th century

town of Carcassonne, across the river from

the City of Carcassonne) had been renamed

for members of the Carcassonne Resistance

who were executed on the same day in

August 1944. Out of that, came the

inspiration for Citadel, the third novel in my

Languedoc Trilogy.

And I love Chartres, which is twinned with my

home town of Chichester in Sussex. When I’m

in Chartres, I have such a strong feeling of

history and of the past. When I was writing

my latest novel The City of Tears, which is set

in the late 16th century against the backdrop

of the French Wars of Religion, I had to train

myself to forget the 13th century city I'd

written about Labyrinth but imagine instead

what life would have been like some three

hundred and fifty years later. Novelists are

nosy! Wherever I am, when I'm writing, I'm

always snooping, always excavating the city

beneath the city. I seek the untold stories, the

stories of ordinary people, particular the

women who are left out of the history books.

I prefer to explore on my own, quietly with a

notebook and a map, standing alone in the

shadows and letting the past fill my head. I

find that the story, the plot, the characters

and atmosphere come to me best in silence. I

do a lot of my pre-site research at home, so

that I already have the sense of the

topography and architecture of the place I'm

writing about, so by the time I visit, I'm feel I

already know the city. This slower process

helps me to bring a place to life. The research

through archives, museums, libraries and

books are an essential part of the preparation

- readers deserve accurate and gripping real

history - but then there’s what I think of as

the “foot research” - walking, seeing the

landscape, imagining the characters, that's

what brings a novel to life.

Photo: Bobby Chitwood

Sometimes I will have spent years visiting a

place years before I even think of writing

about it. All of my knowledge of Carcassonne

comes from having spent some of every year

there for the past 30 years or so. And the first

time I ever went to France was to Chartres on

a school orchestra exchange trip, so all of my

memories of Chartres go back to being a 14

year old clutching her violin. But It wasn’t

until I was writing Labyrinth in 2004 that I

ever put those streets and that amazing

cathedral down on paper. Novels, ideas,

characters take a long time to brew ...

Was there a point when, before you wrote

Labyrinth, your first big blockbuster, the

idea was just in your head, when you

suddenly thought - I'm going to do this, a

sort of a Eureka moment?

To start with, I fell in love with the place,

then the history. We bought a tiny house in

the shadow of the medieval city walls of

Carcassonne in November 1989, when I was

expecting our first child. For three months of

my maternity leave with my daughter in

1990 we were based there and, two years

later, we did the same thing when our son

was born During these early years, I was

always reading about the astonishing history

of Carcassonne - particularly about the

religious wars of the 13th century and a

group of so-called heretical Christians, the

Cathars, and I was hooked. Little by little, I

started to realise that the images I had in my

head were actually not scenes from history

at all, but rather imagined characters set

against the backdrop of the history I was

coming to know so well. Then, in the late

1990s, we went to one of the key sites in the

Cathar story, Montségur in the Pyrenees. It

was March, the time of year in 1244 when

the siege of the citadel came to an end, and

some two hundred Cathars were brought

down the mountain by the Catholic soldiers

to be burned at the pyre.

As I climbed the mountain on my own -

leaving my husband, mother-in-law and our

children building a snowman beside the

memorial to the Cathar martyrs at the foot of

the mountain - I thought about how it was

the key end point really of the Cathar

Crusade, the moment at which the

independence of the Midi came to an end. It

was really cold and there was a heavy mist.

And then suddenly I was up and through the

cloud cover, where the sky above was an

intense blue.

Photo: Carcassonne Tourist Office

I climbed up perilously icy steps into the

ruined castle, then right to the top of the

battlements - there were no railings or

barriers - and stood there looking out over

the incredible beauty of the Pyrenees.

Suddenly, I had a very clear image of a

woman pulling a red cloak tight against the

cold.

10 years later I was at home in Sussex,

writing Labyrinth and that scene, set on that

final day of the siege in Montségur in March

1244 and there she was, my lead character,

Alaїs, standing on the wall. As I typed the

description of her wrapping her red cloak

around herself, I suddenly thought, "Oh,, it's

you. I met you 10 years ago, but I didn't

know who you were." And that's how novel

writing works!

This collision of place, history and inspiration

happened again with The Burning Chambers.

I was in the rue du Marché in the Bastide in

Carcassonne and I suddenly imagined what it

might have been like to walk down this same

street in 1562, on a cold February morning.

What if you were going to work in your

father's bookshop, like on every other day,

without realising that the next day, 1st March

1562, a massacre would take place many

hundreds of miles away, in a place you'd

never heard of called Vassy, but it was

something that would turn your life upside

down and destroy France - a generation of

civil war between Huguenots and Catholics.

And out of that one thought, suddenly Minou

Joubert, my main character, presented

herself. And I felt, ok, now I've got to find out

who you are and tell your story. It’s always

that exhilarating moment at the start of a

novel when one key person - usually a

woman - stands in front of me and offers

their hand. Then, off we go to discover the

story together, but always against the

backdrop of real history, of a real and

amazing place.

I always have a blank piece of paper and a

pen to jot down notes wherever I am. You

never know what, as a writer, you might

notice that will be the thing that sparks the

next idea - someone on the bus tucking her

hair behind her ears, a man weeping in the

street, the child nearly running into the road.

View from the Hotel de la Cité

Although my plots are complicated and

often intricate, I'm not a planner in the early

stages of a book at all. I'd rather not control

things too much, preferring to keep my eyes

and ears open, being available to the

characters, ideas and the stories that might

come and find me. I’m a keen walker,

because for me it's the things that you

haven't gone looking for, but you just see

out of the corner of your eye - that's where

the real stories come from. Keep your mind

open and receptive. So much writing and

imaging happens on the move!

In Carcassonne when you want to take a

break, is there somewhere you'd like to go?

For the past ten years, I've been a part time,

and now a full time carer, so I am not able to

be in Carcassonne as much as I'd like - it's

really not suitable for wheelchairs! But I still

go at least four times a year and always

launch the French editions of my novels

there and often escort my Dutch, Spanish

and German publishers and journalists too.

La Cité itself has changed a lot over the

years, there’s been a great deal of

restoration and renovation. Though there

are critics of Violet- le-Duc's 19th century

restoration, the fact is it wouldn't be there at

all without his work and that of others. I

think it looks magnificent!

Within the medieval city, the Hotel de la Cité

is wonderful, one of the great hotels of

France. It was built in 1909 and all the great

performers who came to perform in the

open theatre within the walls, for example,

Sarah Bernhardt, used to stay there. When I

go in winter, rather than open up our little

holiday house for a night, I always stay there.

I love the wonderful wood panelled rooms,

red leather chairs and views over the

medieval city walls. Out of season, there are

few tourists, much of the city is closed and it

has a completely different atmosphere.

Bar Felix, Place Carnot, Carcassonne

In the Bastide on the other side of the River

Aude, I love Bar Felix in the main square,

Place Carnot. It was the first café we ever

sat in back in 1989 - in fact we had our

wedding party diner there! Sitting outside

under the plane trees with a glass of local

rosé, an amazing salade de chèvre chaud and

watching the market day shoppers is one of

life’s great pleasures. There's been an

amazing restoration programme of the

Bastide in recent years and it's looking as

good as I've ever seen it. Here's the life of

the real Carcassonne. Don't forget to pop

into the great Breithaupt bookshop while

you're there or wander up to the Canal du

Midi at the top of the town to watch the

barges pass through.

Toulouse features in your books – is this

another favourite places?

Toulouse - la Ville Rose - is one of my

favourite cities in the world. I think it has

absolutely everything. Incredible music,

Photo: Rue du Taur,

theatre, art galleries, the wonderful historic

centre, the mighty river and the bridges. I

love the rue du Taur, which I wrote about in

The Burning Chambers and previously in my

2009 Gothic novel, The Winter Ghosts. I like

the mix of grandeur and tiny little streets

that lead out from the Place du Capitole and,

of course, I love the story behind the places.

The rue du Taur gets its name from the

legend of Saint Saturnin being dragged by a

bull to his death along this road in 250 AD

when he refused to participate in a pagan

ceremony. The Basilica Saint-Sernin stands

at the end of the street, a beautiful memorial

in stone to his martyrdom.

If you look up as you walk, above the

modern day shop fronts, you’ll see evidence

of the old city walls. When I was writing The

Burning Chambers and walking in Toulouse,

it was surprisingly easy to imagine the city in

the 16th century – there are still so many

signs of its past.

Toulouse, Boigontie, Toulouse Tourist Office

I could see where the gibbets once were,

gates in the defence walls, and even the

places used as jails by the Catholic

Inquisitions.

And Paris – the city often features in your

books, another favourite?

Yes, I love Paris too, though my heart

belongs to the Midi. I met my husband when

I was at school, but we went to different

universities and our separate ways. Then,

years later, we met again on a train when he

was at that stage living in Paris. So it was

wonderful to discover the city through the

eyes of someone who lived there for several

years.

One of my favourite parts is Beaumarchais

and the area around Bastille. Quite a lot of

the early sections of The City of Tears, the

second in my The Burning Chambers Series,

are set in Paris - not least of all the most

notorious engagement of the French Wars of

Religion, the St Bartholomew's Day Massacre

of Huguenots by the French Crown in August

1572 - so I spent a fair amount of time there

when I was researching and writing last year.

It astonished me to realise how tiny Paris was

in the 16th century and suddenly the history

made sense - how, as the alarm bells rang out

on that fateful day in August, when

thousands of women, men and children

would be slaughtered, it would actually be

easy to close the city gates and trap everyone

inside.

When you think of Paris in the modern world,

you think that's impossible, it's too big. But

when I walked the footprint of the 16th

century city of Paris, I realised you could

easily go in half an hour from the city gates

to the west of the Right Bank, where

Catherine de Medici was building the

Tuilleries Palace, all the way to the Bastille in

the east.

bring it to life.

The City of Tears, the second of the four

novels in The Burning Chambers Series, will

be published 14 January 2021 and is

available for pre-order now. Kate Mosse

suggested that we recommend you preorder

from small and independent

bookshops to give them - and our high

streets - much needed support in these

challenging times.

The City of Tears summary: Minou Joubert

and her family are in Paris in August 1572

for the Royal Wedding, an alliance between

the Catholic Crown and the Huguenot King

of Navarre intended to bring peace to France

after a decade of religious wars. So too is

their oldest enemy, Vidal, still in pursuit of a

relic that will change the course of history.

But within days of the marriage, a massacre

will take place and thousands will lie dead in

the streets. Minou’s beloved family will be

scattered to the four winds...

A gripping, breath-taking novel of revenge,

persecution and love, what it means to lose a

child, the action sweeps from Puivert, Paris

and Chartres to the city of tears itself,

Amsterdam.

And that is the joy of historical research. It

brings a place to life so that people can see a

modern setting in a new light: for example, I

went to Le Tour Saint-Jacques de la

Boucherie in the 4th arrondisement where,

once, Christians congregated at the start of

their long pilgrimage down to Tours and

through France, across the Pyrenees to

Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain.

The church is long gone - destroyed during

the Revolution - but the tower itself

remains. As I stood there, in my head I could

hear the crunching of the shells underfoot -

pilgrims pinned scallop shells to their

clothing and bags as a sign of their faith -

many of which fell to the ground in the mass

of people. And for me, that's the thing that I

hope to give readers, a feeling for a place, to

Find out more at: katemosse.co.uk

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Puy du Fou

If you love history, fairy tales, pomp and splendour, ballet dancing horses, the most

incredible special effects, birds of prey that love to perform and shows on a grand

scale – you’ll fall head over heels for Puy du Fou. No ordinary theme park this, part

illusion, part theatre, part technical wizardry - 100% magical says Janine Marsh as she

falls for its many charms...

Westworld meets Game of Thrones

It ain’t Disney that’s for sure I think to myself

as I walk through the gates of Puy du Fou...

You know that bit when the palaeontologists

see the dinosaurs in Jurassic Park for the

first time? Well I now know how they felt

after my visit to this extraordinary theme

park. It’s a sort of Westworld meets Game of

Thrones with a dash of magic show:

Interactive, extravagant, lavish,

extraordinary. All my life I’ve loved history –

the Romans, the Vikings, the days of Louis

XIV, the Belle Epoque. And Puy du Fou

brings history to life in all these time warps -

and more.

It’s definitely not just for kids though kids

love it – it’s just as much for adults, in fact

possibly even more so. Don’t expect rides,

apart from a carousel for kids, there are

none. These are shows, and they are on an

epic scale. Some shows are interactive, some

are audience based. All are incredible – a

word that’s probably over used, but in this

case, totally justified. More than 2,500 actors

and more than 1,500 animals are involved.

There is nowhere quite like it anywhere in

the world.

I had just two nights and one whole day to

see as much as possible but I’d recommend

two days as it’s impossible to do it all in a

day. I narrowed it down to the shows I felt I

couldn't miss – the Triumphal March of the

Romans was number one for me, but I

started my visit with the new-for-2020 show

Les Noces de Feu – The Marriage of Fire.

Noces de Feu – Puy du Fou

How to describe this show? It’s not easy.

Fantasy, fairy tales and fire…

As night falls, visitors flock to the take their

seats on benches that run around a big lake.

This was my first show at Puy du Fou and

what an introduction it was. As a hotel

guest, I had an “Emotion Pass” which fast

tracks you into shows. It’s all in French but

you can download an app on your mobile

phone, stick your earphones in (take your

own) and hear it in English. I didn’t listen

much at all, it was so spellbinding I simply

watched in awe and enjoyed the wonderful

music.

spouting fire, a floating apparition that made

the crowd gasp in surprise. I’ve never seen

anything like it in my life.

I asked one of the staff afterwards – how on

earth does this work? She wouldn’t tell me,

it’s a closely guarded secret. Part illusion,

part technical: 100% magic.

Part illusion, part technical: 100%

magic

It’s a wedding ceremony water show which

involves ballet performed on the surface of a

lake, music, a life sized golden coach which

emerges from the water pulled by giant

swans, a grand piano which rises up from

the lake, complete with pianist. A floating

violinist, diving footmen, a giant organ

Musketeers, Romans, Vikings, magic

There are several full scale shows at Puy du

Fou covering different eras of French history

from the Romans to the early 20th century. I

started my first day with musketeers at the

Mousquetaire de Richelieu show which

takes place inside a monumental theatre –

where you’ll see the world’s largest stage

curtain. From the very start the audience are

drawn in with a warm up act that has

everyone cheering, there are sword fights

and flamenco dancing in this swashbuckling

show but the real stars for me are the pure

white dancing horses, so beautiful they

bought tears to my eyes. And when the

entire stage, 2,500m₂, fills with water and

sprinkling fountains – you won’t believe

your eyes.

Then it was on to meet the Romans. I

walked down a dusty track to enter a fullsized

Gallo-Roman coliseum which has an air

of authenticity that I really didn’t expect. A

Roman guard appeared, the crowd boo’d.

When the gladiators appeared there were

wild cheers. The show is about a Roman

guard who falls in love with a slave girl and

becomes a gladiator. It involves herds of

ostriches, geese, camels and even big cats. In

one scene, a wagon full of slaves is covered

with tarpaulin and a tiger, yes a real one,

enters the top of it followed by the sound of

screaming. Don’t worry no humans are

harmed!

When the gladiators fight and stab each

other, there’s plenty of fake blood flowing.

There are chariot races complete with

crashes. As I said, this isn’t Disney. It doesn’t

pretend to be the real thing, it’s not

pretentious, but it is marvellously realistic

where it can be! The crowd loved it. Kids

were jumping up and down giving the

thumbs up and thumbs down. Brilliant.

The Viking show involved a burning boat and

fabulous horse riding skills. There were

trained wolves, and an astonishing 20m long

boat rising from the water.

The Secret of the Lance had a superb

horsemanship display and some cute trained

sheep! It also had some terrific illusions, I

couldn’t work out how one minute someone

was standing there, there was a puff of

smoke and all that was left was a pile of

clothes – right in front of us, very clever. And

there's an enormous castle that rises from

the ground.

I’m not going to tell you everything because

you really have to see it for yourself to

believe it.

Interactive shows, period villages and

a remarkable bird show

In addition to the big shows, Puy du Fou has

a number of interactive shows and period

villages. I assure you it’s impossible to be

bored here! And you definitely need to wear

comfortable shoes for a lot of walking.

I loved the Medieval city with its cobbled

street, half-timbered houses, artisans

workshops and ye olde pubs.

There are gardens, fountain displays, fields of

animals and flower valleys that are perfect to

take a break and chill. Nature is always at the

heart of Puy du Fou and there are 45

gardeners tending the park producing around

500kg of vegetables for the onsite

restaurants.

And there are interactive shows. The Lovers

of Verdun takes you through trenches,

canons boom, the sound of men talking, the

ground shakes and sirens scream. But it’s

Christmas so there’s a surprise ending…

Actors draw you into the story and make it

that much more real.

My favourite interactive event was the

Mystery of La Pelouse which takes you on

board an 18th century ship from Cape Horn

to Alaska in a storm. Water flows through

the ceiling, the floor wobbles beneath you,

you can hear the sailors shouting as they try

to bail out, watch them working, see

icebergs passing the window. It’s an

awesome piece of theatre, innovative and

spectacular.

Landing on a ledge to my right, a white owl

fixed its beady eyes ahead then turned very

slowly to look into my eyes. I felt goose

bumps on my arms as we connected, it really

was quite emotional. At the end a ballet of

birds fills the sky, 330 of them, swirling,

swooping, winging their way round and

round the arena. I looked at the audience

around me, open-mouthed in surprise, eyes

wide – entranced.

The Birds

Taking my seat in a huge arena, I could hear

a few squawks and squeaks. I love birds, I

keep chickens, ducks and geese and feed the

local wild bird population of my village from

woodpeckers and jays to ornamental

pigeons and pheasants.

But nothing prepares you for the sight of

trained pelicans, rooks, owls and eagles

flying just inches above your head, so close

you can feel your hair lift as they sweep by.

Cinéscénie – a world class record

breaker

Just outside the park, by the main entrance

is the location for Cinéscénie, which many

people add on to their visit. If you don't,

you'll be missing out on a record breaking

event.

It is the world’s biggest night-time show and

just when you think you can’t be any further

surprised by Puy du Fou – you discover

you’re wrong.

4,200 volunteers, known as Puyfolais, take

part, some of them have been involved for

43 years, since Puy du Fou began. 2,550

actors, 28,000 costumes, herds of animals, a

23 hectare stage (the equivalent to 23 full

size football pitches!). It’s impossible to take

it all in – it’s just so monumental. The story

follows the destiny of a family from the

Middle Ages to the Second World War, and

it all takes place on the world’s biggest stage.

Pure magic

The staff are really friendly and welcoming

throughout the park. It’s a marvellous

melting pot of history, a feast of fantasy and

fairy tale, a smorgasbord of sensational

special effects and fabulous fireworks..

And no matter your age, Puy du Fou brings

out your inner child.

It's brilliantly bewitching...

Where to stay

Definitely on site! I stayed at the Grand

Siecle Hotel, it’s faux Versailles but

beautifully done (and the shower was

superb). The staff dress in costume: from

reception to restaurant! The hotel backs on

to fields where early in the morning the birds

of prey are trained and exercised, an amazing

sight. There are 6 themed hotels so pick your

favourite historic period and sleep in the

days of Rome, the middle ages, the 16th or

the 18th century.

Where to eat

There are 22 restaurants and snack bars on

site, I tried several! The restaurants of Table

des Ambassadeurs (Grand Siecle) and at the

Camp du Drap d’Or (in the style of the Field

of the cloth of gold, Henry VIII, or rather his

competitor French King Francis 1) both

offered buffet style lunch and dinner. I

thought they were great value for the

generous portions and well cooked food.

90% of the cold meats, salads and

vegetables – including Noirmoutier potatoes

and mogettes (white beans) – are sourced

locally.

Tip: book your table when you book your

tickets on the website, restaurants have set

meal times and are really popular.

There are plenty of places to have a snack,

drink, ice cream as well as picnic areas.

How to get to there

If you go to Puy du Fou by car, there’s plenty

of parking on site. If going by public transport

take a train from Paris to Angers then a

shuttle bus direct to the park.

Tip: The Puy du Fou shuttle bus leaves from

just in front of Quai A (bus stop A) at the bus

station (gare routiere to the left as you exit

the station). If you have time, take a wander

in Angers, it’s a short walk to the castle and

the old town.

Book tickets and find out more at:

Rocamadour

Amy McPherson

explores the rock of

miracles...

“That’s real, right?”

“Yes.”

“It’s not a mirage?”

“No.”

Imagine, having just spent four hours hiking

through wilderness, encountering only five

humans and three dogs enroute, I emerge out

of the forest like a wild beast, to the end of

the trail, cross a concrete car park and curve

around the cliff top, to be greeted by a village

that looks like a medieval painting, an

apparition from a Games of Thrones film set.

This flourish of a settlement seems to spring

out of the rocks and flow to the gorge’s base,

and I would not have been surprised should I

find a dragon guarding its entrance gates.

I have arrived in Rocamadour as a final

destination of a multi-day walking trip. A

UNESCO Heritage Site, Rocamadour has been

an important religious site along the St James’

Way pilgrimage route and is built around the

church complex at the heart of its blueprint,

stacked vertically on the rocks that drop 150

meters onto the valley floors of the Alzou.

Immediately visible from the top is the 19th

Century castle that was the access control of

the religious compound below. I climb the

14th Century ramparts to admire the

panoramic view of the surrounding gorge and

the wilderness whence I emerged. The castle

itself is private and unfortunately does not

allow visitors.

Today, I will walk down the staircase from the

cliff top to the valley floor. Back in the Middle

Ages, tired pilgrims would have traced the

trails along the river from beyond to climb the

216 stone steps of the Grand Escalier on their

knees as an act of penance, to pray to and ask

for a miracle from the Notre-Dame of

Rocamadour, the Black Virgin.

Among the many renowned pilgrims was

Henry II, King of England. According to

accounts by Robert de Torigny, a Norman

monk and chronicler, the King travelled from

Domfront, Normandy to offer prayers. He

had recovered from a terrible illness, thanks,

he believed, to divine mercy.

I follow the zigzagging ‘Way of the Cross’

path at the base of the castle that traces the

cracks of the cliff face leading to the

entrance to the Sanctuaries. It's made up of

several chapels and churches that seem to

overlay each other. Parts of the compound

are built into the cliff itself, using the rocks

to support the building structures. The

preserved remains of St Amadour were

discovered in the rock face in 1166. He is

believed to be a servant of the Holy Virgin,

responsible for 126 recorded miracles that

occurred here during her intercession.

Entering the church ‘layer’ of Rocamadour, I

am immediately drawn to Saint Sauveur

Basilica. It’s the largest building in the

sanctuary, snuggled up to the cliff face and

constructed over many years, a blend of late

Romanesque and Gothic styles.

The Notre-Dame Chapel, the heart of a

pilgrimage, where the Black Virgin oversees

her worshippers from a bronze alter, is just

around the corner from the basilica. Just

outside the chapel entrance, I notice a coffin

sized cave cut into the cliff wall. This is

where St Armadour’s body was found, as

well as a rusty sword driven into the rocks

above. Known as the Durandal sword, it was

wedged there to prevent it falling into

enemy hands, a story weaved into the

mystery of Rocamadour, luring pilgrims to

worship at its core.

The church square leads to the Palace of the

Bishops, restored in the 19th Century. It's

now a Museum of Sacred Art and exhibits

regional religious art as well as special loans

from churches around the world.

Feeling purified and blessed by holy spirits, I

descend the Grand Escalier into the town

centre of Rocamadour. To left and right it

appears as one long corridor lined with

hotels, shops, restaurants and residences. In

the Middle Ages, this narrow strip of road

would have been crowded with pilgrims, as

well as a support system including mills,

hospitals and defence gates of this holy site.

Much of the village along Rue de la

Couronnerie, the main artery through town,

remains unchanged in layout. There has

though been restoration work to the

facades that has eroded over time, and only

Salmon Gate remain its original features.

I rest my feet and take dinner on the

outdoor terrace of Restaurant Le Terminus

Des Pélerins overlooking the Alzou valley.

The food is so tempting I can't resist the

walnut cake that is the speciality of the

region, and platter of local cheese. Small

rounds of young goats cheese that bear the

same name as the town. While it isn’t

strictly from Rocamadour itself, I can now

confidently say, I’ve had Rocamadour in

Rocamadour.

Many day visitors return to the cliff top to

join their coaches, however I plan to stay

the night, watching the shadows play

around the valley by the glow of the dipping

sun.

Craning my neck and looking up towards

the churches and the castle above, I am

suddenly filled with a sense of awe. I

imagine the pilgrims, coming through the

gates on either side of the village

encountering the majestic power of

architecture and height, you can see how

they were persuaded by stories of miracles.

I ponder the steep stairs upwards and

consider whether I’d be dedicated enough

to climb it on my knees.

No. I decide that's not for me, I have further

to travel and need my legs for my onward

walk...

YOUR PHOTOS

Every weekend, we invite you to share your photos on Facebook - it's a great way for

everyone to see "real" France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they go.

Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared and here we showcase the most

popular of each month. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook - the most "liked"

will appear in the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine...

June: Bonnieux, Provence in a storm in June, by Helen Leather

July: Goult, Provence, by Helen

Leather,

August:

Roussillon,

Provence, by

Marianne Furnes

Join us on

Facebook

and like and

share your

favourite

photos of

France...

YOUR PHOTOS... continued

September: Saint-Jeannet wine making by

Kim Chambers.

Here you'll find a unique vineyard where the

wine is left outside in the sun to rest for

several months. It's kept in 50-litre tearshaped

jars called "Lady Jane" and then aged

in oak barrels...

The great Autumn giveaway...

We've got some great prizes to give away - enter them all and don't forget to share

with your friends! Just click on each giveaway to enter each draw...

We’ve teamed up with La Chambre Paris to give

away a top of the range set of luxury linen

bedding. Not just gorgeous bedding, La Chambre

Paris are respectful of the environment in their

production. One lucky winner will receive a full

bed set of 1 x duvet cover, 1 x fitted sheet and 2 x

pillowcases. They can choose the fabric, colour

and sizes of their choice. La Chambre Paris will

also pay for the shipping to any country within

Europe/America.

Competition closes on 1 December so the lucky

winner will have them in time for Christmas!

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE DRAW FOR

GORGEOUS FRENCH BEDDING

Samantha Verant’s debut

novel is a delicious read…

A disgraced chef

rediscovers her passion for

food and her roots in this

stunning novel rich in

culture and full of

delectable recipes. A

charming, feel-good read...

CLICK HERE TO WIN AN AUDIO COPY OF THE

SECRET RECIPES OF SOPHIE VALROUX

This is lovely coffee table book

by artist Perry Taylor, an

‘Anglo-Gascon’ view of life in

rural France that takes you

away from the cares of today’s

world. It makes you smile and

nod in recognition if you know

Gascony and yearn to discover

it for yourself if you don’t.

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE

DRAW FOR PLANETE

GASCOGNE

Paris, Part Time is a different kind of love story - it is an

adventurous evolution of self-creation and determination to

overcome obstacles and time zones. Lisa Baker Mogan will

take the reader to the streets, cuisine, culture, and matchless

beauty of France.

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE DRAW FOR PARIS, PART

TIME

Falling for France wasn’t part

of the Mediterranean

honeymoon agenda. Pale

rosé, languid lunches on a

sun-dappled terrace, and a

dash of reckless abandon may

have been to blame.

Americans Gayle Smith

Padgett and her husband,

Ralph, leap into a longdistance

love affair with La

Belle France.

CLICK HERE TO ENTER

THE DRAW FOR PASSION

FOR PROVENCE

Alignment is a heartwarming

standalone women’s

contemporary fiction novel. If

you like insight into the human

heart, characters with real

depth, and stories that stay

with you long after the end,

then you’ll love Tracy Chollet’s

award-winning novel.

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE

DRAW FOR ALIGNMENT

Told with warmth and

humour, Janine Marsh's'

My Four Seasons in France

showcases a uniquely

French way of life: where

two eternally ambitious

expats drag a neglected

farmhouse to life, and deal

with the accompanying

disasters, learn to grow

vegetables, discover how

to cook, and stumble

across the hidden gems of

this very special part of the

world.

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE DRAW

FOR MY FOUR SEASONS IN FRANCE

Living in France

Spotlight on: Pas-de-Calais, Hauts de France

Pas-de-Calais is a department of contrasts. Dramatic cliffs and beautiful sandy

beaches of the Opal Coast reach out to lush green valleys and bucolic countryside,

it’s an area that’s peppered with picturesque villages and historic towns says Janine

Marsh

Most people think of Calais as a landing

point for a holiday elsewhere in France. With

two ferry ports Eurotunnel and Eurostar

stations in the department, visitors arrive in

their millions and whizz straight onto the

motorways, headed south.

But if you hanker after the good life in

France where street markets, boulangeries,

fromageries, cafés where you can watch the

world go by, chateaux and gateaux are a way

of life and you want to be close to the UK

for family or even for work, this is an area

that should be considered.

Real France on your doorstep

Pas-de-Calais, Hauts de France, is a bit of a

secret part of France. Perhaps because it’s so

easy to get to, there’s a tendency to dismiss

it as not real France - but nothing could be

further from the truth. This is authentic

France at its best.

A short drive from the busy port town of

Calais you’ll find enchanting fishing villages,

verdant farming hamlets, ancient forests,

historic towns and magnificent coastal

towns.

The weather is similar to that of Devon or

Cornwall. Agriculture is one of the main

industries. There are vast fields of

vegetables, wheat and maize, sugar beet and

chicory. The marshlands of Saint Omer are

famous for their vegetable growing

properties. This is hop (beer) country, more

than vineyards, but wine and champagne are

grown in the region, in Picardy, and

neighbouring Champagne is easy to get to.

Pas-de-Calais is said to be one of the

friendliest places in France and the locals

have an enduring passion for their heritage

and long history. The land is marked by a

strong connection with England which once

ruled Calais, and by battles going back

thousands of years. Julius Caesar launched

his conquest of Britain from Boulogne, one of

the most famous battles of the Hundred

Years War took place at Agincourt and Henry

VIII met his rival, French King Francis I, on

the so-called Field of the Cloth of Gold near

Guines. And the scars of WWI and WWII will

remain forever.

These days the department is home to a

cultural centre dedicated to Entente Cordiale,

at Hardelot, the only one of its kind in

France.

Coast to coast

The Opal Coast runs the length of the coast

line of Pas-de-Calais from the border with

Belgium round to the border with Picardy

and is dotted with pretty and authentic

fishing villages. Le Touquet Paris-Plage, AKA

the Monaco of the north, and Wissant beach

are regularly awarded top ten beaches of

France status, and you’ll discover varied

coastal styles from golden sands to dramatic

cliff tops from which you can see the White

Cliffs of Dover, rocky outlets where you can

fish for shrimp, and secret bays where seals

frolic.

Boulogne-sur-Mer, a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire

and the biggest port in France, is brimming

with attractions. “If it (Boulogne) were but

300 miles further off… how the English

would rave about it” said Charles Dickens of

the town where he lived for three years. He

would almost certainly recognise the old

town today with cobble stoned rue de Lille,

and the incredible Basilica of Notre Dame.

It’s also home to Nausicaa, the French

National Sea Centre, which is one of the

largest aquariums in the world.

Town and Country

Arras is the capital of Pas-de-Calais, it’s

architecturally splendid with huge squares

bordered by tall houses with Flemish

facades. It’s home to a UNESCO listed belfry,

voted favourite monument of the French in

2017 (France 2 TV). This small city is like an

urban oasis set in lush countryside

surrounded by pretty villages with easy

access to Arras’ many charms and facilities.

charming towns, such as Montreuil-sur-Mer

with its cobbled squares and ancient

ramparts. A visit to the town in 1837

inspired Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables.

Eevery year around 600 locals put on a

fabulous show of the author’s famous story

complete with horses, cannons and

fireworks! There are excellent restaurants,

fabulous food and wine shops and a superb

market.

Living in France and working in the UK

For those who have flexible working

conditions, a move to “very south Kent” as

some call Pas de Calais, really could be a

tremendous way to maximise both home and

work opportunities.

Fibre optic high speed internet is being rolled

throughout France including rural villages in

the north. There are excellent transport

connections between Pas de Calais and the

UK, for instance passenger train Eurostar

from Lille to London takes 1 hour 22 minutes

and from Calais Frethun direct to St Pancras

its just 56 minutes. There are also Eurotunnel

trains (car/train) service and ferries run

between Dover Calais and Dunkirk.

Barrister in Boulogne-sur-Mer

When Wendy and Adam Clemens’ daughter

showed them a house for sale on the

internet, the couple were hooked. The 19th

century Hotel Particulier (mansion house) in

St Etienne au Mont, just outside Boulognesur-Mer,

was like a dream of their ideal home

says Wendy “it was a moment of falling

madly in love”. They sold their house in Essex

in the UK, moving to France in 2017. The

house was structurally sound with lots of

original features, beautiful wood flooring,

grand windows and doors, but needed

Adam is a barrister and commutes to London

on a regular basis. At just 25 minutes’ drive

to Calais Frethun station, then Eurostar to St

Pancras, the whole journey takes less than 2

hours, and he often takes day trips for work.

In fact, he says, his journey from Essex took

longer.

Though they love their French house it is the

life they have in France that is most

important to them. “There’s a sense of

community spirit, the neighbours have been

really welcoming, and when Adam is

working in London I don’t feel isolated

because there’s always something to do. Our

daughters Lucy and Alice who both work in

London, love to visit”. Wendy says right

from the beginning, they’ve felt like they

belong. “On our first day, the lady across the

road came over with a tray of hot food and

home-made bread. After we’d been

unpacking all day, it meant so much”.

“We love the food here” says Adam, “there

are fabulous restaurants like the Michelin

starred La Matelote in Boulogne for special

occasions and within walking distance of our

house there’s a charming bistro with great

steak frites”.

The proximity to the beautiful beaches of

the Opal Coast, the street markets and the

friendliness of the people make this “a little

bit of heaven” says Wendy.

Designs on the 7 Valleys

Heather and Mike White, a creative pattern

maker and graphic designer respectively,

purchased a neglected former school house,

close to the popular town of Hesdin in the

heart of the Seven Valleys. It needed a lot of

renovation and while Mike took on the

challenge, Heather continued to work in

London, commuting from France.

The couple’s creative flair shines through in

every detail of their now jaw-droppingly

beautiful home. Though the house is still a

work in progress, it’s a cosy, welcoming place

with magnificent views over the surrounding

countryside. “Apart from not being able to

get a take away after a hard day’s graft,

there’s nothing I miss in the UK” says Mike.

What they’ve gained from their live in

France/work in London arrangement says

Heather, is a lifestyle they could never have

afforded in the UK. They love walking in the

country with their dog, “friendly and

welcoming locals, a slower pace of life”,

street markets and visiting flea markets at

the weekends (there are more than 3000 a

year in the region). With numerous museums

and cultural venues, including the world class

Louvre Museum at Lens, hundreds of

festivals and events, Paris 2.5 hours away, “it

is” says Heather “ideal and idyllic”.

Tim Sage, regional manager of Leggett

Immobillier, who lives in the Seven Valleys,

says this is an area that’s really underestimated

and offers terrific value. “It’s the

closest French holiday destination for the UK

which makes it easy for expats to see friends

and family and for second home owners to

spend more time on holiday and less

traveling. Known as the golden triangle for its

ease of access between Paris, Belgium and

the UK, it has the added advantage of low

cost homes.

There are a growing number of expats living

the good life in the region whilst continuing

to work in the UK. And while currently travel

is on hold, when restrictions are lifted, for

those looking to live in France but not be too

far from the UK, this region might be just

perfect...

Tim's Portfolio of properties in Pas-de-Calais

The cost of living in France

We’re often asked how much it costs to live

in France, especially when compared to

other countries. You could compare it to

asking how long is a piece of string because

we all have different circumstances. But we

asked finance advisor Jennie Poate at

Beacon Global Wealth if she could give us

some ideas of the cost of living in France….

I once met someone who claimed she

couldn’t live without her €5000 pm clothes

allowance. And, I have friends who live on

less than €1000 pm.

Much depends on your personal spending

habits and where you live. The cost of living

varies enormously from region to region, city

to city, from city to village. The cost of living

in Cannes is not the same as the cost of

living in Caen.

And there are a number of other things to

take into consideration. Pools cost money to

maintain, lots of land can cost money to keep

tidy, oil/gas is usually more expensive than

wood heating for instance and depends on

the size of the property.

And there may be a mortgage, rent and

associated taxes to pay – for instance

habitation tax.

Then there’s healthcare. Costs depend on a

number of factors including age, and it’s

customary in France to pay for “top up”

insurance. The French state generally covers

around 70% of the cost of most healthcare

requirements and you cover the rest with top

up insurance.

Everyone's situation is different but here’s an

idea of some average costs for a couple.

If you go back to your country of origin

regularly or have a thirst for travel, then

you’ll need to factor in costs for this - and

travel insurance too.

You may need car insurance and home

insurance.

the good life that you dream of.

Book a free no-obligation review with Jennie

Poate, Beacon Global Wealth: https://

calendly.com/beaconglobalwealth/15min

www.beaconglobalwealth.com

There is no one-size fits all, costs are not set

in stone and in the current Covid situation,

prices are subject to change as costs for

food for instance are increasing in France as

in the rest of the world. It very much

depends on individual circumstances and

requirements for life in France.

If you’re planning to live in France, it’s can be

very beneficial to have professional help as

you plan for your new life. Get a review of

your savings and pensions to help you make

the most of your assets to help you achieve

The information on these pages based on current regulations is intended only as an introduction only and

is not designed to offer solutions or advice. Beacon Global Wealth Management can accept no

responsibility whatsoever for losses incurred by acting on the information on this page.

Moving to France?

These are the key essentials to know when it comes to banking…

Moving to France has never been so popular. So, if you are planning to start your new life,

here are some great tips from the experts at CA Britline, the French bank that speaks

English, to help make your move smooth…

Living in France is going to change for UK citizens post-Brexit (1 January 2021). However,

there are many things which will continue to attract Britons and other nationalities to life in

France, such as the cuisine, wine, landscapes and lifestyle. And of course, you can continue

to fulfil your dreams of a different lifestyle.

Fulfilling a dream is exciting – and at times, has its challenges! Here we give you some

advice on the key things to do: Opening a bank account, getting a mortgage, arranging

insurance and ensuring that you have adequate health cover.

Let’s get started…

Opening a bank account is an essential first

step for living in France – and it’s simple and

straightforward. From withdrawing cash,

arranging currency transfers, funding your

property purchase, organising your

insurance policies to setting up direct debits,

standing orders or a savings account. A

dedicated French bank account is essential

for daily life in France.

You can open a bank account remotely and

supply the documentation online, saving you

the hassle of visiting a branch.

If you run a small business in France,

whether it’s a gite, chambre d'hôtes or

another type of commercial venture, you

must open a separate account for any

business-related transactions.

Bank cards

There may be differences in how banks work

in France from your home country, notably

bank cards. In France, most people use débit

cards, with the money deducted from their

bank account immediately or shortly

afterwards. Credit cards are less common.

With a carte de crédit you choose a set date

for payments to make budgeting easier.

Banking services

A RIB (Relevé d'Identité Bancaire) contains

all of your French bank account details: your

unique bank account number, your name,

address of bank and other code information.

When you set up your utilities to pay by

direct debit, they will ask for your RIB.

Cheques are also still widely used in France,

to pay for services or buy groceries. If you

receive a cheque as a payment, sign and

date it on the back before you pay it in to

your bank account.

TIP: Most transactions are completed online

giving you flexibility with your banking. It is

useful though to have a few RIBs printed off

for when you need them. Print these at

home or your bank can supply them free of

charge.

Getting a Mortgage

Compared to the UK, property is generally

more affordable in France. And, there is a

wide choice of properties available: houses

requiring renovation, homes in pretty coastal

or quiet countryside locations, city or town

apartments. As well as land to build new

homes that is often reasonably priced.

When it comes to French mortgages, they’re

worth checking out. Interest rates are low at

present and fixed rate mortgage loans for a

25-year term are widely available.

Important note: French mortgages are

available to residents and non-residents.

Lenders look closely for proof of income and

will calculate the total amount of household

debt (it should not exceed 33% of your

annual income). Get together all of your

paperwork before applying online, including

proof of income, outgoings, assets etc.

Note: Borrowers must sign a sale and

purchase contract for their property before a

lender will issue a formal Mortgage Offer.

Setting up a business

The majority of Britons currently moving to

France are of working age, so earning a living

is clearly key. Many choose to set up their

own businesses and there are a variety of

legal structures enabling you to do this.

Before moving to France you may find it

useful to consult a French based accountant

for advice on the best way of setting up a

business. They can help register you

correctly, complete the necessary paperwork

and also advise on tax issues. If you do not

speak French, there are English speaking

accountants available.

House & contents Insurance

There are two main types of policy: ‘new for

old’ cover that essentially pays for you to

purchase replacements as new. The second

type of policy reimburses you, however,

there is a deduction for the age of the item.

Car Insurance

If you’re bringing your UK registered car to

France, there are several things you need to

do including arranging your car insurance.

You have up to 6 months to ensure your

vehicle conforms to French regulations, such

as changing the car headlamps and putting

the car through its Contrôle Technique (like

an MoT) to obtain a carte grise.

Note: Depending on the terms of the Brexit

deal between the UK and EU, you may need

to exchange your UK driving licence for a

French one.

Registering your vehicle and exchanging

your driving licence are both undertaken

online.

In 2019 France launched a database called

Fichier des Véhicules Assurés (FVA). This

checks if vehicles are not appropriately

insured – and is linked to other systems.

Top-Up Health Insurance

In France, the state generally funds 70% of

healthcare costs. The other 30% is the

responsibility of the individual. Top-Up

Health Insurance is provided by mutual

health companies. Referred to as

complementary healthcare cover or the

mutuelle, this system reimburses you for the

remainder of the cost of your healthcare.

Private health insurance is another option,

but it’s more expensive.

In France you are legally required to have

insurance for health, homes and property,

motor vehicles, civil liability and even for

children attending school. For those in selfemployment

business insurance is a legal

requirement too.

A Carte Vitale is used every time you go to

the doctor, dentist, a pharmacy or visit the

hospital. You are eligible for a Carte Vitale if

you have lived in France for at least 3

months.

Life in France after Brexit

The UK formally left the EU in January 2020

as part of the Withdrawal Agreement (WA)

and the transition period maintaining the

same rules on trade, travel and business ends

on 31 December 2020. UK citizens will no

longer have the same rights as they do now

and are expected to have a similar status to

expats from the US, Australia and other

countries.

Of course, you can continue to buy property

in France after 1 January 2021, either as a

second home or for a permanent move.

However, UK citizens moving to France only

have up until 31 December 2020 to enjoy

the benefits of the WA. Advice from the UK

Government states that after this date, UK

citizens will be subject to national legislative

provisions and will be required to obtain a

long-stay visa before going to a prefecture to

file their application for a residence permit.

From 1 July 2021 all UK citizens living in

France must apply for a Withdrawal

Agreement residence agreement. Key

requirements including proving that you can

financially support yourself and your family

and have access to healthcare.

The official UK Government website (“Living

in France”) contains information on many

issues including health matters, pensions and

working in France, as well as driving.

CA Britline is part of Crédit Agricole, one of

France’s largest banks. Banking, loans and

mortgages, insurance and savings – all under

one roof. All of our friendly team are English

speakers, ready to help you start your new

THE

PYRÉNÉES-ORIENTALES

where the mountains meet the sea ...

Easy to reach and a tempting blend of French/Spanish border cultures, the

Pyrénées- Orientales offers buyers beautiful beaches, ski resorts and hilltop

villages says Liz Rowlinson…

If you’re torn between a home somewhere

by the beach or up in the mountains - with

the Pyrénées-Orientales you can have both.

This department in southern France,

adjacent to the northern Spanish frontier

(Catalonia) and the Mediterranean, is slowly

getting discovered by British buyers,

although the French have long appreciated

its diverse appeal.

There aren’t many places in the world where

you can ski in the morning and enjoy a glass

of wine in the sunshine on the

Mediterranean coast in the afternoon, but

the Pyrénées-Orientales can offer you this

and so much more.

For dedicated skiers there are eight ski

stations that are generally more affordable

and less crowded than the French Alps. The

two largest are Font-Romeu and Les Angles

where it is possible to buy a 1 bedroom

apartment from €80,000. Here you can

mix skiing with biking or other activities, and

take advantage of the dual seasonality of the

region, which is great for those looking to

maximise rental income.

Access to this area is easy, with flights to

Perpignan, Béziers, Carcassonne and Girona

airport all within a 2-hour drive. There is also

a TGV sevice to Perpignan train station. And,

the A9 motorway links to the Spanish

border.

“The area offers such a contrast in scenery

within a short distance travelled, from the

huge expanse of sandy beaches that

transform into rocky coves and the plains

that are full of cherry, peach and apricot

trees, right up to the mountains with their

spectacular scenery,” says Donna Tulloch,

Leggett’s local agent. “Mount Canigou is the

highlight of this area. Not the highest

mountain at 2,784m but the most visible

from as far as Barcelona and Marseille.”

Top left: Canigou Mountain; above left - right: Petit Train

Jaune; Ceret, Paulliles beach; Ille-sur-Tet

Even with the beaches you can choose

between sandy bays such as at Toreilles,

Canet-Plage and Spanish border. And there

are chic little towns like Collioure. Port

Vendres and Argelès near Perpignan. The

rocky coves are great for snorkelling and

diving around Cerbère near the Spanish

border.

For buyers who would love to be close to

the beach, the busy little market town of

Prades is a popular choice, with its Pablo

Casals chamber music festival every August.

Or there’s Vinça, with its own swimming lake

just off the main road between the coast and

Andorra. Most buyers' budgets range from

€150,000 to €200,000 for a village house

with outside space, with prices getting

cheaper if you go further up into the

mountains - and for €350,000 you can find a

house with a garden and a swimming pool,

making it easy to rent out when you are not

using it.

Other highlights include the beaux villages of

Eus, Ville-franche-de-Conflent and Vernetles-Bains,

where Rudyard Kipling took the

waters over a century ago. The evident

elements of Catalan culture are also

appealing, from the ‘firework runs’ or

correfocs to the human tower-building of the

castellers.

This tempting blend of French/Spanish

border cultures makes life here richer and

definitely exciting!

Recipes and wine matches

Coq au Vin

There’s a legend in France that the Coq au Vin recipe goes back to the Romans. The story goes

that in 52 BC Julius Caesar arrived in France with his armies, intent on victory over the Gallic

tribes. One of the Gallic chiefs sent Caesar a cockerel, meant to taunt him, a symbol of Gallic

aggressiveness and bravery. Caesar who clearly had no respect for cocky symbols, had the bird

cooked in wine. And promptly conquered the Gallic forces.

There’s no proof this is true and apparently there are no cookery books listing coq au vin as a

recipe before the 19th century. But it could be true! Every region seems to have their own

version and so does every French cook.

Whole chicken is traditional but you can also

use 4 chicken breasts for ease

½ Bottle of red wine

Bay leaf

Spring of thyme

100g bacon (1 oz) or lardons

30 g butter

10 picking onions (small onions)

125g button mushrooms

Teaspoon oil

½ litre chicken stock

60ml brandy

15g plain flour

1 tsp tomato puree

Tablespoon chopped parsley

Joint the chicken into 4 pieces or use 4 chicken breasts. Put the chicken pieces in a bowl

with the wine, bay leaf, thyme, pinch of salt and pepper. Cover the bowl and marinade

overnight in the fridge.

Dice the bacon and fry gently until just golden then put to one side.

In the pan, melt quarter of the butter and fry the mushrooms with salt and pepper then add

to the bacon.

Then fry the onions in a little butter until soft and browned and put with the mushrooms and

bacon.

Drain the chicken and keep the marinade. Pat the pieces dry with kitchen towel, season with

salt and pepper and fry in the remaining butter and oil. When both sides are golden, stir in

the flour.

Then put the chicken in a large saucepan and add the chicken stock and deglaze the frying

pan with the brandy – bring it to the boil for about 30 seconds. Then pour it over the

chicken with the marinade and fried mushrooms, bacon and onions plus the tomato puree.

Leave to cook on the oven top for about 45 minutes on a gentle heat.

When ready to serve, stir in the parsley.

Mop up the sauce with a hunk of bread and serve with a glass of red wine!

(Note – if the sauce isn’t thick enough, mix a level tablespoon of softened butter and a

tablespoon of plain flour tighter and whisk into the sauce (or add cornflour thickener).

Wine Pairing

Burgundy is undoubtedly one of the most iconic wine regions in the

world. It also happens to be the birthplace of Coq au Vin. The

aromatic intensity and the silkiness of the tannins will complement

beautifully the texture and flavors of this classic French recipe. The

refreshing acidity of Pinot Noir in such a cooler climate will energize

this rich dish.

Pair it with Cote Chalonnaise 2017 Annie Derain – 100% Pinot Noir

from Burgundy - delicious!

Thanks to Laurent Yung, wine expert at Sommalier.com for the

great wine pairing tips. All wines featured in the recipes section

are from www.sommailier.com, a wine club offering exclusive

boutique French wines in the U.S. Get a special introductory

offer of 10% on any product – just use the code TGLF2020 on

the check out page


Salmon en papilotte

Ingredients for 4

4 x 200g Salmon fillets, skinned

2 lemons

Knob of butter

Salt and pepper

Method

Preheat oven to 200˚C (400˚F/Gas 6). Make sure there are no bones in the salmon fillets.

Slice the lemons thinly.

Cut four circles from greaseproof paper (around 12 inches/30cm wide). Melt the knob of

butter and brush over the circles.

Place a salmon fillet on each circle and put 3-4 slices of lemon over the top and season.

Fold the edges of the greaseproof paper together to seal into a “parcel”.

Place on a baking tray and bake for 10-15 minutes (according to the thickness of the

salmon) – the fish should be firm to touch.

Delicious with a salad or fries..

Wine Pairing

Alsace produces incredible wines in all three colors

but is mostly known for its succulent white wines.

Although some of them can have a touch of

residual sugar or even be lusciously sweet, the dry

Rieslings found in the region will make a perfect

companion for this Dish. The citrus notes of this

elegant and refreshing wine will nicely echo the

lemon flavors from the recipe, while the crisp

acidity will cut into the fat of the protein. The nice

minerality on the finish will make you crave for

another bite or sip.

Dry Riesling Cuvée Engelgarden 2016 from Jules

Muller – 100% Riesling is perfect with this dish...

Pithiviers


Ingredients

Filing

140g unsalted butter at room temperature

125g caster sugar

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons dark rum

1 lemon or orange

140g ground almonds

1 tablespoon plain flour

Casing

Packet of puff pastry (650g)

1 egg

Icing sugar

Method

Beat the butter and sugar together until pale and creamy. Mix in the eggs, a bit at a time and

beat well. Zest the lemon (or orange) and beat in with the the rum. Fold the almonds and

flour in and then put in the fridge while you sort out the pastry,

Divide the pastry in two and roll out one half into a 28cm circle. Put the pasty on baking

paper on a baking tray. Spread the filling over the pastry and leave around an inch of pastry

uncovered all the way round the edge.

Roll out the other half of the pastry and cut into a circle as above. Brush the clear edge of

the first pastry circle with the beaten egg and place the second pastry slice over the top. Pop

it in the fridge for 1 to 12 hours.

Preheat oven to 220 ˚C. Paint the top of the pie with beaten egg (but not the edges). Cut

the pie with a sharp knife to create a spiral pattern.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until golden and beautifully risen.

Wine Pairing

Sauternes is one of the very few areas in the world to

have all the conditions necessary to develop the good

kind of botrytis cinerea, or “noble rot”, that will dry

the berries, concentrate the sugar and impart specific

flavors and aromas of apricots, exotic fruits, ginger,

and honey. This is a wine fit for kings, and it will pair

wonderfully with this exquisite Pithiviers. The

intensely fragrant nose of the wine will perfectly

match the enticing aromas of the dessert, while its

generous body will be a good fit for the richness of

the almond filling. The Sauvignon blanc in the wine

brings a nice acidity, to balance the voluptuous

Semillon. The nice citrus character (orange rinds) of

the wine should do wonders with the orange/lemon

notes of the dessert.

Sauternes L’Ilôt de Haut Bergeron 2016 from Hervé

and Patrick Lamothe – 80% Semillon/20%

Sauvignon is perfect with this recipe...


Crémets

Crêmet d'Anjou – the words make some sigh with happiness. There’s even an association

dedicated to this creamy dessert. that originates from Anjou, a historical and cultural region

in the Loire Valley.

The great French gourmet and food critic Curnonsky once said of crêmet d’Anjou “Angevin

crêmet is a feast of the gods. There is no other whipped cream like this sparkling speciality,

fragrant, creamy and light ”.

There are variations of the recipe (some like to use egg whites instead of cream cheese to

bring down the calorie count) which has been around since at least the 1700s. But this is a

traditional recipe that takes just minutes to make and can be jazzed up with the addition of

coffee and served with various sauces. In Anjou, people make this creamy dessert with a

traditional “faiselle” a ramekin dish with holes but they’re not essential.

Ingredients for 4

250g Cream cheese (fromage blanc)

250ml double cream (thick/heavy cream)

90g caster sugar (superfine sugar)

Method

Line four small ramekins with muslin and leave some to hang over the edge of the dishes –

enough to cover the whole thing.

Beat the cream cheese to soften it, whisk in the cream and the sugar. Spoon in to the

ramekins, cover with the muslin. Leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Carefully remove and serve as you like with fresh fruit, (strawberries and basil are delicious

with this dish), strawberry or berry sauce, chocolate sauce etc.

A great combination is coffee crêmets with chocolate sauce! Make as above but add 4

tablespoons of strong coffee when you add the sugar.

Or you could add a little vanilla essence with the sugar.

Yum.

Wine Pairing

Languedoc-Roussillon, in addition to being

the largest wine producing region in France

(for wine with geographic identity) is home

to some of the very finest dessert wines.

Maury, Banyuls and Rivesaltes are all “Vins

Doux Naturels” that, when aged for some

time (“Ambré” “Tuilé” or “Hors d’Age),

develop enchanting aromas of torrefaction,

hazelnut and coffee that do wonders when

paired with coffee and chocolate based

desserts.

La Soulane 2017 from the Côtes du

Roussillon – 50% Syrah/50% Grenache is

ideal with this dessert. A great alternative to

Maury or Banyuls but a dry wine.

Thanks to Laurent Yung, wine expert at Sommalier.com for the great wine pairing tips.

All wines featured in the recipes section are from www.sommailier.com a wine club

offering exclusive boutique French wines in the US. Get a special introductory offer of

10% on any product – just use the code TGLF2020 on the check out page

Autumn in France is a time of celebration and remembrance. For the last few

years, Halloween, which used to be largely ignored, especially here in the rural

far north where I am, has become much more popular. Go back just a few years

and you’d hardly know it existed, but now local shops are decked out with

festive spider webs, singing pumpkins and Halloween themed chocolate – you

won’t find me complaining.

Here in my little village we’ve just about reached the trick or treat stage with a

few kids traipsing through muddy farmyards to knock on doors for sweet

things. But to most people round here, Halloween is the night before La

Toussaint, All Saints Day, a time to remember loved ones no longer with us.

Every year French churchyards are a riot of colour on the 1 November national

holiday. Friends and family of the dearly departed take pots of vibrant

chrysanthemums to place on graves. We place flowers in our local churchyard

on the tomb of a WWI British soldier killed nearby. He is not forgotten.

Armistice day is a serious affair in France, as well as a National holiday. Each 11

November, at the 11th hour, we gather in front of the church memorial. The

Mayor lays a wreath and stands to attention alongside his deputy who solemnly

intones “Mort pour la France”, the Mayor then names villagers lost to war. The

British soldier is included. All is silent, other than cows mooing in the

surrounding fields. It’s a poignant event, one that brings the community

together.

Afterwards, everyone gathers at the town hall for a vin d’honneur, a glass of

wine, to honour the memories of those lost. Though this year we won’t be any

clinking of glasses, we must socially distance. As everywhere, the virus that has

turned our world upside down has impacted daily life here in the middle-ofnowhere

rural France. Mask-wearing is a way of life, the scent of alcoholic hand

wash is ever present and there is no kissing or handshaking - though many of

the older folks find it hard to remember these social restrictions. But as my 90

year old neighbour Claudette often says, quoting Victor Hugo "Even the darkest

night will end and the sun will rise"...

Bisous from France,

Janine

Editor of The Good Life France

beaconglobalwealth.com

Issue No.26

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