Issue No. 12

Poverty can be a positive thing for the city explorer. Whilst researching my book “Only in
Paris”, a limited budget forced me to abandon dreams of living in Montmartre in favour of
its Left Bank counterpart, Montparnasse. Any thoughts of having compromised culturally
were quickly dispelled, however, when on my first day I happened upon the Cemetery of
Montparnasse.
Every bit as interesting as Montmartre’s
burial ground, the Cemetery of
Montparnasse contains its own share of
big name burials and uniquely is home to a
17th century windmill from when the area
was arable land. The writers Baudelaire and
Maupassant are here, and the philosophers
Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.
Serge Gainsbourg, the enfant terrible of
French popular music, is a more recent
arrival, with a grave that is usually adorned
with cigarette packets.
Of particular interest is the memorial
marking the grave of French explorer Jules
Dumont d’Urville. In 1820, whilst serving in
the French navy, Dumont joined a survey
ship in the Mediterranean. It was there
during a visit to the Greek island of Milo
that he saw and sketched a newlyexcavated
Classical statue. Realising it was
something very special, Dumont urged his
captain to purchase the statue. When the
idea was rejected, Dumont showed his
sketches to the French ambassador in
Constantinople, from where a vessel was
immediately dispatched and the statue
secured.
For his part in acquiring what became
known as the Venus de Milo, Dumont was
awarded the Légion d’Honneur and
promoted to Lieutenant. The statue is today
one of the most popular exhibits in the
Louvre and its likeness is carved on
Dumont’s grave.