Jewellery World Magazine - April 2022

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By Kirsten Ehrlich Davies PEARLS – FROM CONSISTENCY TO CONTRAST The classic string of perfectly matched pearls has always been the ultimate fashion accessory. Yet today, there is a growing demand for baroque pearls of all varieties due to their creative potential and individuality. During the 20th century, a strand of round, evenly matched pearls was the ultimate symbol of elegance, with the versatility to match any outfit and available any price point. The simple yet elegant style was popularized by iconic figures like Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Onassis. Today,the classic symmetry and consistency of a perfectly matched string of pearls still retains a place in the market, yet baroque pearls are enjoying a new renaissance in response to a more individualistic market. Jewellery designers are working with baroque pearls of all kinds, inspired by the contrast in shape and colour – not just in comparison to classic round pearls, but also in the contrast with different metals and gemstones worked into a design, to highlight the unique organic beauty of each pearl. “Designing jewellery to suit baroque pearls can sometimes be challenging but also extremely Ikecho rewarding, when the two elements blend harmoniously into a statement piece of jewellery,” said Lindsay Youd of Allure South Sea Pearls. Cheryle of Stones and Silver says that while pearl jewellery has always been timeless and classic, it was time to “incorporate a modern twist” to appeal to younger generations. “The design of the piece really drives its popularity whether it be a classic style or a design that is currently on trend,” said Cheryle. The Perfection of Imperfection A baroque pearl is defined as any pearl that is not a perfect sphere. The word “baroque” comes from the Portuguese word “barocco” which means “imperfect”, and since the 17th century, this word has been used to describe any pearl that is not perfectly round. They can be dented, pear-shaped, lumpy, coin-shaped or tear drops, and can take on a wide range of colours. Devino While most contemporary baroque pearls are a happy accident of the cultured pearl trade, natural baroque pearls have been prized since the Renaissance era. From the 16th century jewels and enamel were used to complement the pearl’s natural shape,transforming it into an animal, flower and even a human figure, such as the 16th century Swan Pendant or the 19th century Canning Jewel which features a jewelled merman brandishing a sword and shield. This design strategy of using the pearl as a central feature of an object is still used today, with examples like Allure South Sea Pearl’s whimsical bumble bee pendant, featuring a gold bee with a pearl body; or Ikecho’s sterling silver pink freshwater pearl necklace, featuring a delicate diamond leaf balanced with a teardrop pearl. The most illustrious natural tear-drop pearl is the aptly named La Peregrina (The Wanderer) which was passed around the royal families of Spain, England, France and Russia for 400 years before being purchased in Geneva by Elizabeth Taylor. Marie Antoinette had a Ikecho 28 jewellery world - April 2022
Stones and Silver Stones and Silver diamond pendant featuring a tear-drop pearl and another tear-drop pearl was immortalised in Vermeer’s iconic painting The Girl with a Pearl Earring. The Hope Pearl, currently the fifth largest pearl in the world, became part of Henry Philip Hope’s legendary jewellery collection in the early 1800s. It is an enormous pear-shaped blister pearl of Asian provenance, weighing 1800 grains or 90 grams, with dimensions of 5.08 cm in length, and a circumference ranging from 11.43 cm to 8.26 cm. The broader end of the pearl has a greenish bronze sheen, which fades to a silvery white lustre at the narrow end. Unique compatibility Every pearl is a unique surprise – there is no way of predicting what will emerge from the oyster. Finding compatible pearls for a piece of jewellery is always challenging, although it can be more time-consuming to gather enough round and evenlyshaped perfect pearls for a strand than to find inspiration for a design featuring a series of baroque pearls. Irregularity and LUXURY pearl AND opal JEWELLERY Ikecho Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au www.ikecho.com.au
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Jewellery World Magazine - April 2022

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