Adventure 232

Winter issue of Adventure magazine

Winter issue of Adventure magazine


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adventure<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

ISSUE <strong>232</strong><br />

JUN/JUL 2022<br />

NZ $10.90 incl. GST<br />

winter<br />


Available Available from from leading leading retailers: retailers:<br />

Auckland: Auckland: Snowcentre<br />

Taupo: Taupo: Gordons Gordons<br />

Wellington: Gordons Gordons<br />

Canterbury: Gnomes Gnomes<br />

Wanaka: Wanaka: MT Outdoors MT Outdoors<br />

Queenstown: Small Small Planet Planet<br />

Dunedin: Dunedin: Beggs Beggs Ski Shop Ski Shop<br />

Distributed by Outfitters by Outfitters<br />

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The media sucks!<br />

I clearly remember as a young teenager playing rugby league and<br />

I knew that we had two boys in the team that were over age and<br />

should not be playing. Every win was tainted. What was harder<br />

than knowing that you were not really winning fairly was knowing<br />

that your team, the guys you played for, were not someone you<br />

could be proud of and not a team I wanted to belong too.<br />

I feel the same way now about the media.<br />

The media has always been a bit like that. Historically whatever<br />

sold newspapers, was pushed to the front; not just current news<br />

but outrageous news, twisted headlines, the girl in a bikini on<br />

page three, that sort of approach. Then came along the women's<br />

weekly’s, showing images of movie stars on their day off to get<br />

beer-belly shots, or the no-makeup shots. Those tabloids that<br />

chased Princess Diana, hunting for a gossip shot, (that's a whole<br />

other editorial!).<br />

Move to the last few years, the news media has moved more<br />

and more online. As we all have struggled with covid, the media<br />

has not done its reputation any good. Whenever there is an<br />

opportunity to over sensationalise a covid issue they have<br />

leveraged people’s fear and worry to gain clicks – clicks, not to a<br />

news feature based on fact or even entertainment but feeding on<br />

fear and uncertainty just to get clicks.<br />

As we go to print Ruapehu has been making a few rumbling<br />

noises and the media has come out with 'Likelihood of eruption<br />

has certainly increased', ‘Mt Ruapehu tremors highest in nine<br />

years’ or ‘Mt Ruapehu has the strongest tremor in 20 years’<br />

all with underlying rhetoric of the White Island tradegy. One<br />

website, with a misleading heading, pushed doom and disaster<br />

for the winter ski season. Then used a video of a professional<br />

volcanologist discussing the recent activity. If you listen to the<br />

expert, he says there is nothing to worry about, it is a usual cycle<br />

for this time of year, be aware but carry on as normal.<br />

As <strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine we wrote to the mainstream media and<br />

asked them to stop ramping up a story that had no base in truth<br />

because of the impact it would have on the livelihood of those<br />

who need the mountain to be fully open this year.<br />

Ruapehu has now started to fall out of the media clickbait limelight<br />

(the clicks must have started to fall off) and covid seems to be<br />

less of an issue. So the media has now started to hypothesise<br />

that there will be a massive spike in Covid numbers this winter<br />

and on top of that, we are about to be flooded with the Monkey<br />

Pox. All this just to set off our Covid alarm bell and get us clicking<br />

again.<br />

Scaremongering to create clickbait, to create revenue, is<br />

embarrassing for any of us in the media. It has become its own<br />

nasty pandemic. A pandemic to which there is no vaccine, so I<br />

guess the only cure is awareness. Don’t follow the negative hype;<br />

focus on the fun, the good, the right and the true. Winter is coming<br />

and rather than face it with Covid and Monkey Pox concerns we<br />

should be planning for an amazing winter season. This issue of<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> will be low on the effects of Monkey Pox and high on<br />

how much fun winter can be.<br />

Let your concerns be about how often you can get to the<br />

mountain and not led by some clickbait incentive pulling at your<br />

fear strings.<br />

From the staff at <strong>Adventure</strong> enjoy winter<br />

Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />

your <strong>Adventure</strong> starts with Us<br />

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

page 10<br />

Image by Alpine Guides Image by Eric Skilling<br />

Image by Zhi Yuen<br />

page 22<br />

page 46<br />

#<strong>232</strong><br />

10//A Winter's Dream<br />

Hiking Ruapehu<br />

20//Nim Purja<br />

Breaking records<br />

contents<br />

22//Nelson Lakes<br />

Lake Angelus, Sabine and Speargrass Huts<br />

28//Georgia<br />

A little known treasure<br />

34//Suffrage and Growth<br />

An accidental romance<br />

42//Winter Fishing<br />

They still have to eat<br />

48//Winter Mackenzie<br />

Standout moments<br />

55//Mindfulness<br />

The art of paying attention<br />

76//<strong>Adventure</strong> Travel<br />

Fiji | Niue | Tahiti | Rarotonga | Vanuatu<br />

plus<br />

62. gear guides<br />

94. active adventure<br />


www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz<br />

adventuremagazine<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

Nzadventuremag<br />



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Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage<br />




Nirmal “Nims” Purja is seen on top of Mount Everest in Nepal on<br />

May 15, 2022. Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more<br />

incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer became<br />

the first person to summit three higher 8,000m peaks – Everest,<br />

Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse - in just under nine days and do the<br />

Everest to Lhotse traverse in 26 hours - both without oxygen. For<br />

the full story see page 20.<br />

Photographer by: Pemba Sherpa / Red Bull Content Pool<br />

SEXY AF<br />

A tasting team member dropped off a selection of Sexy AF alcohol<br />

free spirit products for a cocktail order. An intriguing product made<br />

from vegetable glycerin (perhaps another name for sugar), some<br />

have been awarded double gold at the World Spirit Competition.<br />

A striking label coupled with catchy names, the Friski whiski,<br />

AperTease, and Amar-oh combo really did taste like a cocktail with<br />

a reasonable mouthfeel for a non alcoholic drink. Promoting sober<br />

curious and mindful drinkers this product has certainly caught<br />

our attention. Mixed with some citrus, this easy going serve was<br />

smooth and delicious.<br />

For an equal parts serve<br />

1 jigger (22.5mls) AperTease @sexyafspirits<br />

1 jigger Friski Whiski<br />

1 jigger Amar-oh<br />

1 jigger freshly squeezed mandarin juice<br />

Juice of half a lime<br />

Shake with ice, double sieve, and garnish with mandarin<br />

segments.<br />

Follow @cocktailontherock | www.cocktailontherock.co.nz<br />

Find your AF products at www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz/<br />


Steve Dickinson<br />

Mob: 027 577 5014<br />

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


Lynne Dickinson<br />

design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />


subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />


Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000<br />


ONLINE)<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />

www.adventurejobs.co.nz<br />

www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />

@adventurevanlifenz<br />


NZ <strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine is published six<br />

times a year by:<br />

Pacific Media Ltd,<br />

P.O.Box 562<br />

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />

Ph: 0275775014<br />

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

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Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must<br />

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Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality<br />

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used on our website. Material in this publication may not be<br />

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*<br />




Words by Adrift.co.nz Images by Zhi Yuen<br />

Just because its winter doesn’t mean<br />

you can’t go out and play. Hiking boots<br />

on and all rugged up in cosy woollen<br />

layers, there’s nothing like a winter’s<br />

day out exploring the great outdoors.<br />

With Tongariro National Park at your<br />

doorstep and the iconic triple peaks<br />

of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt<br />

Ngāuruhoe as your backdrop, head<br />

to Ruapehu to discover a network of<br />

world-class walking and hiking tracks<br />

made for intrepid explorers.<br />



"With Tongariro National Park<br />

at your doorstep and the iconic<br />

triple peaks of Mt Ruapehu, Mt<br />

Tongariro and Mt Ngāuruhoe as<br />

your backdrop, head to Ruapehu to<br />

discover a network of world-class<br />

walking and hiking tracks made for<br />

intrepid explorers."<br />

Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />

When winter arrives, the otherworldly landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />

are transformed to something beyond your wildest dreams. Renowned as one of the<br />

best one day hikes in the world, taking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during winter<br />

is a unique wilderness adventure best experienced with a guide. The elements are<br />

in full force with ice, snow, and alpine conditions to reckon with, so it is essential to<br />

go a professional guide. Additional preparation, equipment, specialised navigation,<br />

and high-level backcountry skills are essential to enjoy this winter expedition safely.<br />

Even if you’ve already done the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during the summer months,<br />

it’s another level of adventure during winter so book with a local guide to be able to<br />

rediscover this iconic hike to the fullest.<br />

Waitonga Falls<br />

A favourite with locals, Waitonga Falls is Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfalls<br />

at 39 metres high. With access from Ohakune Mountain Road, this 4 km easy and<br />

well-formed return track offers incredible views of Mt Ruapehu with majestic panorama<br />

from the Rotokawa pools alpine wetland area. The perfect spot to pause, reflect and<br />

take in natural wonders of this UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of geological and<br />

cultural significance.<br />

Tawhai Falls<br />

Short, sweet and a must-do for Lord of the Rings fans, the beautiful cascades of<br />

Tawhai Falls is an easy, 20-minute short walk easily accessible from roadside along<br />

State Highway 48 nearby National Park Village. This family friendly walk delivers<br />

gorgeous views from the top of the falls along with an easy to follow track to the<br />

bottom of the falls.<br />

Mounds Walk<br />

Come sundown, the quick and easy Mounds Walk is a great way to watch the sun go<br />

down as golden hues sweep over this unique landscape. Just a few minutes’ drive<br />

from National Park Village off of State Highway 48, the formed mounds is a stark<br />

reminder of the unique natural environment and geological wonders of NZ’s oldest<br />

National Park.<br />

Taranaki Falls<br />

Situated in the heart of Tongariro National Park, the Taranaki Falls Track is a 6 km<br />

loop, well-formed track that’s regarded as one of best short walks in the area - even<br />

during the winter months. Traverse dramatic volcanic terrain to the stunning Taranaki<br />

Falls as its alpine waters cascade 20 metres down to picturesque pools. On a clear<br />

day take in the spectacular views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Tongariro as you journey<br />

through alpine shrublands, mountain beech forest and volcanic soils.<br />



Tama Lakes<br />

Popular year-round, the stunning Tama Lakes walk is a<br />

great alternative to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing that is<br />

phenomenal to experience during the winter season. This<br />

17.6 km track is an extension of the popular Taranaki<br />

Falls Track full of diverse terrain ranging from undulating<br />

tussock country, alpine lakes, and ancient lava flows.<br />

Regarded as an advanced tramping track, going guided<br />

is definitely the way to go for an unforgettable winter<br />

expedition to the Tama Lakes.<br />

Discover four seasons of incredible hikes and walks at<br />


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RIDE IN<br />


Ride to your own rhythm to take in the scale and serenity of Ruapehu’s Greater<br />

Outdoors.<br />

Magnificent mountain peaks, ancient rainforests, and forgotten worlds await,<br />

with spectacular suspension bridges and viaducts, historic relics and secret<br />

waterfalls to discover.<br />

Home to two Great Rides and options for all abilities, there’s plenty of<br />

two-wheeled adventure to be had in Ruapehu.<br />




From the UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of<br />

Tongariro National Park to the waterways and byways of<br />

Whanganui National Park, wind your way through alpine<br />

villages, mountain towns and historic relics to discover<br />

the best of Ruapehu by bike.<br />

Home to the Timber Trail and Mountains to Sea - Ngā<br />

AraTūhono, two of New Zealand’s Great Rides. Ruapehu<br />

offers over 400 km of epic trails of local gems and worldclass<br />

rides to discover.<br />

The Timber Trail<br />

Distance: 85km<br />

Grade: 2-3<br />

The Timber Trail follows the path of old logging roads,<br />

and the historic bush tramlines through Pureora Forest<br />

Park. A testament to forward thinking environmentalists<br />

who protested against native logging in 1978, this area<br />

is one of the last remaining intact podocarp forests in<br />

New Zealand. Highlights of the trail include spectacular<br />

suspension bridges, giant ancient trees and fascinating<br />

relics from the area’s timber milling history. There’s also<br />

the Ongarue Spiral, an engineering marvel and great<br />

fun to ride over and then down through a tunnel under<br />

the track. The trail is normally ridden over two days with<br />

memorable accommodation available at Piropiro, the<br />

midway point. There are two lodges, a campsite, and<br />

fully serviced glamping here, nestled into a remote bush<br />

setting. Tour operators offer packages with shuttles and<br />

accommodation to make the planning easy.<br />

Ohakune Old Coach Road<br />

Distance: 15km<br />

Grade: 3<br />

The Ohakune Old Coach Road follows the route of the<br />

old dray road between Ohakune and Horopito. This day<br />

ride is full of surprises and incredibly beautiful, taking in<br />

some magnificent railway heritage including two striking<br />

viaducts and a spooky old tunnel. It offers some fantastic<br />

views over the volcanic plateau of Tongariro National<br />

Park, and some spectacular sections regenerating native<br />


Main image: Spectacular scenery on the Timber Trail<br />

Above top to bottom: Mountain Biking The Marton Sash and Door Trail / Ohakune Old Coach Road<br />

bush. You can ride the trail in both directions as an out<br />

and back, or take a shuttle to ride the trail in a mostly<br />

downhill direction from Horopito back to Ohakune, where<br />

you’ll find plenty of options to enjoy some mountain village<br />

hospitality after your ride.<br />

Mangapurua Track (Bridge to Nowhere)<br />

Distance: 36km<br />

Grade: 3*<br />

The Mangapurua Track is a classic back country ride, with<br />

a spectacular finale. The trail starts deep in Ruatiti Valley<br />

with a steady climb over a saddle and into the remote<br />

Mangapurua Valley, a long-abandoned farming settlement<br />

surrounded by bush-clad hills and dramatic bluffs.<br />

The ride and the riveting story that goes along with it end<br />

at the Bridge to Nowhere, a graceful concrete monument<br />

to the settlers’ broken dreams.<br />

Then on down to the Whanganui River. When the ride<br />

is over, your next adventure begins! Load your bikes<br />

onto the back of a jet boat for an invigorating ride out to<br />

Pipiriki. You’ll need to book your transport in advance, and<br />

local tour operators offer packages with shuttles and jet<br />

boat ride.*In or after significant rain, may ride as a grade<br />

4. Check track status on the Official Mountains To Sea<br />

website before riding.<br />

Mountains to Sea - Ngā Ara Tūhono<br />

Ohakune Old Coach Road and the Mangapurua are part<br />

of the Mountains to Sea Ngā Ara Tūhono Great Ride. If<br />

you’re looking for a varied multi-day ride from the top of<br />

Turoa ski field right to the Tasman Sea at Whanganui,<br />

there are a couple of options to choose from, the Classic<br />

Experience, or the <strong>Adventure</strong> Route, or sections of the<br />

track make great day rides. Have a look at Fishers Track,<br />

Kaiwhakauka and Marton Sah and Door.<br />

For more info to plan your trip visit:<br />

www.visitruapehu.com. You can also download<br />

ride maps from the official websites, Timber Trail and<br />

Mountains to Sea.<br />


NIM PURJA:<br />



Images and text by Red Bull<br />

Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more<br />

incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer<br />

became the first person to summit three peaks higher<br />

than 8,000m – Everest, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse -<br />

in just under nine days and do the Everest to Lhotse<br />

traverse in 26 hours - both without supplementary<br />

oxygen.<br />

The Nepal-born naturalised British climber is well<br />

known for summitting all 14 of the world's 8,000m<br />

peaks in seven months and he also made history on<br />

January 16, 2021, when the former Gurkha and British<br />

Special Forces operative and his team became the first<br />

mountaineers to summit K2 in winter.<br />

After receiving worldwide acclaim for those feats, Purja<br />

embarked on a new adventure in early May with his<br />

Elite Exped team as they tackled the Himalayan peaks<br />

of Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga.<br />

Purja and his team went from Base Camp to Camp<br />

2 on May 5, and then on May 6 started the push -<br />

with a few hours break at Camp 3 - to the 8,586m<br />

Kanchenjunga peak which they summited at 10.50am<br />

on May 7.<br />

They switched over to the Everest Base Camp on May<br />

10 and departed at 3am on May 11 for Camp 2 where<br />

they acclimatised for two days before heading up to<br />

Camp 3 on May 13 ahead of the final push.<br />

They left the South Col at 11pm on May 14 and, in a<br />

very quick time of just nine hours, they summitted the<br />

world's most famous peak of 8,849m at 8am on May<br />

15 to complete the second leg of the feat.<br />

Lhotse was the final peak and on May 16, the team left<br />

the South Col around 3.30am and reached the 8,516m<br />

summit around 10am with Purja the first to summit<br />

three peaks higher than 8,000m – Everest, Lhotse and<br />

Kanchenjunga - without oxygen in an incredible time of<br />

just eight days, 23 hours and 10 minutes - a new world<br />

record.<br />

The 38-year-old, who took full advantage of this<br />

season's good Everest summit window, revealed: "As I<br />

was focused on guiding and helping our team achieve<br />

their new possible, it was all in a chilled manner. My<br />

mission has always been to inspire people and to<br />

show what human beings are capable of, that's what<br />

gives me the energy and excitement – showing people<br />

that nothing is impossible. I'm trailblazing and I want<br />

to inspire everyone to know they can achieve their<br />

dreams too."<br />

He also did the Everest to Lhotse traverse without<br />

supplementary oxygen in 26 hours to claim another<br />

world record despite getting Khumbu cough before<br />

Kanchenjunga due to low humidity and high-altitude<br />

temperatures.<br />

He added: "I was leading and guiding without oxygen<br />

– I was checking in and making sure everyone was<br />

ok, fed and rested and strong. And for me when I do a<br />

summit push it is from Base Camp to the summit and<br />

then from the summit back to Base Camp. It has to be<br />

authentic – no helicopter lifts back to Base Camp –<br />

unless the summit is void or there's an emergency or<br />

rescue."<br />



NELSON<br />

LAKES<br />

*<br />




By Eric Skilling<br />

“Lake Angelus is my favourite place in the world” he<br />

said as we discussed the trip ahead. Okay, he was born<br />

in the area so maybe I could excuse a bit of bias, but<br />

that was a bold claim from someone who has visited<br />

some amazing places all over the globe. Judging by the<br />

number of photos I brought back, maybe he was right.<br />

My biggest encouragement was when he also said he<br />

wasn’t feeling that fit. Time to kick some butt, or so I<br />

thought. Alas, a lot can happen in four days, and nature<br />

would find a way of bringing me humbly back to earth by<br />

doing what nature does.<br />

DAY 1: Lake Angelus. 12km in 6 hours. As so often<br />

happens in NZ, you step out of the car park and head<br />

straight up a hill. In this case a 650metre climb for the<br />

first hour-and-a-half. The upside is there are plenty of<br />

switchbacks, views of Lake Rotoiti, and the forest is full<br />

of the welcoming calls of bellbirds. It wasn’t long before<br />

I was back in the groove and feeling grateful to be out<br />

tramping in such epic country.<br />

The landscape changed abruptly as we left the bush line<br />

and started the poled route along Roberts Ridge. The<br />

track wound its way ahead through alpine scrub before<br />

disappearing into swirling mist. This was late February,<br />

and we were still warm after the climb, so we by-passed<br />

the shelter and kept going until we came across Martin.<br />


On top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus valley.<br />

Martin is probably not his real name, but the<br />

name seems to suit him. Martin is the name<br />

we gave to the larger-than-life-sized wooden<br />

model that looms out of the mist with hand<br />

raised. He warned us that the track ahead<br />

was “difficult, rocky and exposed” and “it<br />

was still a long way to the hut!”. He urged<br />

us to TURN BACK! If we were tired or cold.<br />

Dramatic stuff. I gave Martin a cuddle and we<br />

continued onward.<br />

We met a couple returning from Lake Angelus<br />

who told us the sky would clear once we<br />

reached Flagtop at 1650m, and we would get<br />

great views of Julius Summit (1794m). Well,<br />

it didn’t, and we didn’t. But a few hours later<br />

we did emerge out of the cloud and got to<br />

see the full jagged ridge of the Julius Peak,<br />

its multicoloured slopes falling steeply into<br />

the Speargrass River valley. To the northwest<br />

we could just make out what could have been<br />

the Hope Range and Mt Owen.<br />

A few hours later and we were standing on<br />

top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus<br />

valley. This is one of those moments that<br />

is hard to describe. The scene is unique.<br />

Several hundred metres below the two lakes<br />

stand out starkly, their colours ranging from<br />

a deep blue to almost black, edged with<br />

Saying G'day to Martin<br />


Sunrise at Lake Angeles, photographs don’t capture the feeling of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the alpine vegetation,<br />

and the sound of the Hukere stream making its way from the lake.<br />

turquoise and greens. Above them the valley<br />

is ringed by a serrated line of weathered peaks,<br />

with multiple scree slopes reaching down to the<br />

encroaching alpine tussock that surrounds the<br />

lakes.<br />

Angelus hut itself, stands nicely placed on the edge<br />

of the lake looking very fragile and out of place in<br />

this wild landscape.<br />

Once at the hut there was plenty of time for a swim,<br />

a cup of hot sweet coffee and to share stories and<br />

banter with others in the hut. Lake Angelus seems<br />

to be a mecca for couples. Andrea and Patrick from<br />

Nelson, Beth and Mulock from Dunedin, Gabriela<br />

and Leandro from South America. I had to settle for<br />

my mate Don.<br />

Next day I was up in time to catch the sunrise, but<br />

photographs don’t allow you to share the feeling<br />

of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the<br />

alpine vegetation, and the sound of the Hukere<br />

stream making its way from the lake. When the<br />

sun eventually reached over the peaks to the east,<br />

light spread over the glacial valley, still filled with a<br />

lumpy blanket of swirling cloud. Special. Then the<br />

breeze dropped and the surface of Lake Angelus<br />

became a mirror, creating almost perfect reflections<br />

of the scree slopes and skyline above it.<br />

Day 2: Sabine hut, Lake Rotoroa. 6.8km in 6<br />

hours. Note the warning – expect an average<br />

pace of 1.1km an hour. DOC describes the track as<br />

“steep” in that charming, understated kiwi way.<br />

A perfect day for tramping. We scrambled and<br />

boulder hopped along the ridgeline, with expansive<br />

views from Mt Angelus, the Muntz and Braeburn<br />

ranges, and up Sabine River valley to Mt Franklin<br />

(2340 metres). Our lunch stop was just above<br />

the bushline, overlooking the full length of Lake<br />

Rotoroa and the promise of a refreshing swim.<br />

It was a welcome relief to walk into the cool cover<br />

of the beech trees after spending most of the tramp<br />

walking on rock and gravel with plenty of boulder<br />

hopping. Don’t get me wrong, the panoramas from<br />

the exposed tops are awe-inspiring, but it was bliss<br />

to step onto the bush track, cushioned by layers of<br />

fine beech tree leaves. Piwakaka skipped around<br />

us, and bellbirds greeted us with their inimitable<br />

song. Three hours to go.<br />

An hour later the path had become quite steep. A<br />

couple of wasps had miraculously snuck into my<br />

boots, settled on each of my big toes, and would<br />

occasionally give me a sting if I made any decent<br />

sized downward step.<br />

Then we reached “The Sign”. These large signs<br />

with their contour profiles and “You are Here”<br />

points are rare but usually very welcome. They<br />

impart guidance, direction, hope and anticipation.<br />

Sometimes they lie. This specific one was<br />

colourfully decorated with a profile telling us that we<br />

had an hour to go. That is a lie. Clearly whomever<br />

put up the sign did a “she’ll be right” and put it up at<br />

the wrong end of the trail. Soon afterward the steep<br />

track became even steeper. Handholds became<br />

commonplace.<br />

An hour later the lake looked no closer. By now<br />

another 10 wasps had made their way into my<br />

boots and settled onto a toe each. Almost every<br />

foot-plant was announced with a stab of pain to<br />

each toe. I was doing mini traverses wherever<br />

possible. Don meanwhile, seemed to be enjoying<br />

himself as he waited every 100m or so for me to<br />

catch up. I might be better at going uphill, but his<br />

forte was the downhills.

Top: Andrea and Patrick nearing the last ridge<br />

Above: 12 Heading along Cedric Ridge with<br />

Mt Franklin in the distance<br />

We stopped and I took of my boots and socks and rearranged<br />

everything. I enjoyed about 100 metres of relative comfort before the<br />

wasps repositioned themselves on my toes.<br />

Another hour later I was considering taking my boots off and walking<br />

bare foot when I heard voices echoing off the lake. We must be<br />

close. Going bootless on this terrain was a dumb idea so I turned and<br />

scrambled down backwards. The humiliation was complete.<br />

Ten minutes later I hobbled up to the hut and took off my boots, amazed<br />

that they had not melted by the flames from my blazing toes. A painful<br />

lesson in cutting toenails just before leaving on these adventures.<br />


Heading to Speargrass hut<br />

Day 3 and 4: Speargrass Hut and Mt Robert car park.<br />

18Km 9 hours. Don and I had set aside two days to<br />

complete the round trip from Sabine to the car park. It<br />

turned out to be a brilliant ideas for so many reasons.<br />

Not least were the weather gods continuing to smile down<br />

on us. It also turned a single tough day into one moderate<br />

and then another easy day to finish the trip.<br />

2 km<br />

Leaflet (https://leafletjs.com) | NZ Topo Map (/) images sourced from LINZ (https://www.linz.govt.nz/) - Crown Copyright Reserved<br />

Top to bottom: Speargrass hut<br />

The route we took<br />

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Starting alongside the lake the track veers into the lush<br />

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couple of bridged rivers. The forest floor around us was<br />

covered in thick layers of lichen, ferns and bright green<br />

mosses. The clear streams made it mostly a waste of time<br />

carrying water.<br />

We also attracted the attention of some of the most<br />

confident piwakawaka and robins you will meet. During<br />

a stop a robin brazenly hopped down onto our packs,<br />

skipped down to our boots and then hopped onto our legs<br />

and picked seeds off our gaiters and socks. Priceless.<br />

Speargrass Hut is another of the many stunningly-well<br />

placed wilderness huts we have the freedom to visit.<br />

Nestled in a couple of hectares of sweeping speargrass<br />

and tussock, shielded on three sides by massive ridges<br />

including Julius Peak, and facing down the heavily<br />

forested river valley. Relatively new, the hut is also double<br />

glazed and more importantly, empty of people.<br />

The perfect place to reflect and enjoy a final night away<br />

from civilisation.<br />

Midday next day, after a cleansing dip into Lake Rotoiti,<br />

and an equally cleansing ale at St Arnaud, we found<br />

ourselves planning a return trip up Sabine Valley to the<br />

Blue Lake.<br />

Thanks to Don for a choosing a stunning itinerary. And to<br />

the folk managing those predator traps.<br />

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*<br />

GEORGIA:<br />


Words and images by Pol Tarrés Martrat<br />

When this story landed on our desk, I had to admit<br />

that I had no idea where Georgia (the country) was<br />

located, so I did a wee Google search. Turns out<br />

that Georgia is at intersection between Eastern<br />

Europe and Western Asia, bound on the west by<br />

the Black Sea and to the north and east by Russia<br />

and on its southern border lies Turkey, Armenia and<br />

Azerbaijan.<br />

Georgia small and mountainous, covering an area<br />

of only 67.900 km2. The Likhi Range divides the<br />

country into eastern and western halves whereas<br />

the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range forms the<br />

northern border and the Lesser Caucasus Mountains<br />

run along the southern reaches, so you can see it<br />

would be a great place for some snow sports.<br />

Pol Tarrés Martrat shares his experiences visiting<br />

this little known treasure that is Georgia from his<br />

home base in Spain.<br />

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />

The remote untouched beauty that is Georgia


Top: Playing around on the catski<br />

Left to right: Goderdzi resort / Cat team / Lone lines amongst the pines<br />

Destination Goderdzi: Southern Georgia<br />

Goderdzi Ski Resort is situated at an<br />

elevation of 1,724m rising to 2,364m, there<br />

are over 8km of slopes available and you<br />

can find endless freeride lines outside of<br />

the slopes. It had been snowing all night<br />

and found plenty of pow, the snow didn’t<br />

disappoint. We did a few runs, taking<br />

pictures and videos and enjoying the<br />

unbelieveable views of Goderdzi Valley.<br />

After sunset we skied to the front door of<br />

the hotel and headed into the spa for a bit of<br />

relaxation.<br />

We spent the next two days playing around on the catski. The<br />

terrain, although not very steep, was really fun as the catski could<br />

take you almost anywhere and we spent the day doing runs in<br />

the middle of the small houses and forest and some open areas<br />

where you can play around doing fast, long turns.<br />

Tuesday was a bluebird day with no wind and you could see for<br />

miles. The snow conditions were great and you could choose so<br />

many different lines. The conditions mean there is almost no risk<br />

of avalanche so it was like one big playground. We only had a<br />

meeting point with the catski at the end of the slope and the rest<br />

you were free to chose your line. We enjoyed every second of it.<br />

The following day the fog and snow arrived so we chose the forest<br />

to ski as it provided more visibility. After a quick lunch we went<br />

back to the top for a “sunset mission.” It’s amazing how the views<br />

can change with a colourful sunset. In this area there are a lot<br />

of small wood cabins that farmers use during the summer which<br />

makes for breathtaking scenery with all the small huts covered in<br />

untouched snow.<br />



The gondola dwarfed by its surroundings... Goderdzi Ski Resort

Top: All alone in Mestia / Far right: Even the overcast days are great<br />

Left to right: Time to relax / The views are incredible / Solitude and snow<br />

Destination Mestia: Northern Georgia - Greater Caucasus<br />

Our destination was Tetnuldi Ski Resort and things here were<br />

really different. The resort was much bigger, the runs steeper<br />

and mountains higher. With that came more people, however<br />

we still felt like we had the mountain to ourselves. The first<br />

day we woke to a cloudy sky so caught the lift to the top of<br />

the resort, above the cloud layer. Magnificent views of Mount<br />

Tetnuldi (4,858m) and Mount Ushba (4,737m) greeted us, it<br />

was spectacular.<br />

We went with some guides from Vagabond <strong>Adventure</strong>s, they<br />

knew the terrain as this is their home resort, and with a higher<br />

risk of avalanche off-piste and a much larger area to ski it<br />

enabled us to ski freely without fear of getting lost. We spent<br />

the day skiing and enjoying the Georgian pow.<br />

The next day we went to Hatsvali Ski Resort where we did<br />

a few runs through the slopes with astonishing views of the<br />

Ushba Mountains before putting on skins and doing some ski<br />

touring. As time was limited, it was a short one but enough to<br />

know the area has a lot of potential and thousands of places to<br />

explore amongst the big mountains.<br />

Easy, cheap and fun.<br />

After a week in Georgia, we can say that the<br />

country exceeded our expectations, not only snow<br />

wise. We loved the food, we tried all types of<br />

khachapouris (a traditional Georgian dish of filled<br />

bread with cheese, meat or beans.) We also took<br />

part in a Khinkali masterclass and loved it, making<br />

and eating the traditional dumplings.<br />

The people were super charming, and we were<br />

invited to try their homemade wine and even the<br />

local vodka. Even though they didn’t speak a lot of<br />

Engilsh (or Spanish in our case), we were always<br />

received with a big smile.<br />

In conclusion it was an amazing trip to a country<br />

that is a hidden gem, and we know for sure we<br />

will be back again next year. It has so much to<br />

offer; tons of snow, delicious food, lovely people,<br />

astonishing landscapes, adventurous terrain and a<br />

charming culture.<br />


34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />

Tips (and 2 feet) dipped well-into the deep end above Parque Nacional Lanin, Patagonia.<br />

photo: P.M.Fadden



By Paul Fadden<br />

I learned to ski because I needed the<br />

money.<br />

A weird tour through the warped brothels of<br />

Italian immigration had just stripped me of<br />

a life’s savings, direction, and most worldly<br />

possessions. So when I answered a call<br />

promising winter employment high atop<br />

the Chilean Andes, I asked no questions. I<br />

simply said, “Si.”<br />

Raise the stakes; raise the allure, and so it<br />

goes until somebody’s ‘bust’. In my case,<br />

to ‘bust’ meant a fate worse than drowning<br />

by dirty toilet bowl. And I was tip-toeing<br />

the porcelain edge, I knew it. Lumped atop<br />

a kitchen table was a cluster of rumpled<br />

notes, random coins, a wrinkled bank slip<br />

and pocket lint, enough--to the Peso—for<br />

one last roll of the dice.<br />

What followed was a sixty-hour odyssey<br />

aboard two turbulent airplanes and two<br />

asthmatic buses, ending in regurgitation at<br />

the wheel wells of a rusty flatbed driven<br />

by one, Señor Nelson Rubilar Flores—<br />

‘Nelson’ for short.<br />

My broad-faced Chilean patron smiled<br />

widely beneath dancing eyes. He spoke<br />

not a lick of English save a single,<br />

intensely stressed declaration: ‘Eetz-Eem-<br />

Por-Tant.’ Ah Nelson, how right you are.<br />


He gripped me in brotherhood and chucked my<br />

pack over the tailgate. I climbed in and raised a<br />

thumb. Nelson punched it for Maipo.<br />

San Jose de Maipo in Provincia de Cordillera<br />

is Cabernet country, where the “roads” twist<br />

like vines and “driving” is aerobic. For sixty-six<br />

invigorating kilometers, Nelson roared ahead<br />

with reckless abandon. On the sixty-seventh,<br />

he crushed the brake like beer can and I laid<br />

eyes on my fate, the grand-daddy of Chilean ski<br />

culture and industry; Lagunillas.<br />

Centro de Esqui Lagunillas is the country’s<br />

pioneer ski area. Its low altitude and roots<br />

attitude paradoxically pin it down and prop it<br />

up. Big June snow meant an early start to the<br />

season and a dire need for staff. In me, Nelson<br />

saw cheap labor plus nothing to lose, and he<br />

was right.<br />

Promise of income accompanied by<br />

accommodation had already edged-out concern<br />

for creature comforts or inalienable human<br />

rights. But where, I could not help but wonder,<br />

was that accommodation? Save for a series of<br />

60 yr-old wooden platter lifts and a few sagging<br />

shanties, the base appeared to be featureless.<br />

I would have asked, but Nelson had the answer<br />

in the form of a shovel planted at my feet.<br />

“La Francesca,” he said, directing a reverent<br />

gaze uphill.<br />

A building nested a few hundred meters higher<br />

on the southern face. I hadn’t noticed because<br />

only its roof peeked above the snowpack.<br />

Nelson was carving a trail towards it and<br />

indicating, irritably, that I lend a hand. Cold<br />

but sweating, we excavated around clapboard<br />

walls, Plexiglas windows and doors too small<br />

for their frame. Inside, abandoned armies of<br />

crumpled wrappers, unwashed dishes and<br />

rotting food covered every surface. A mouse<br />

dropping carpet sullied an otherwise bare<br />

concrete floor. Heat was by wood fire, water<br />

needed boiling, and electricity ran only when<br />

lifts did. La Francesca, my fortress of solitude.<br />

Back at the carpark I learned there was a<br />

ski school and equipment rental among the<br />

sagging shacks. It was by working there that<br />

I would earn my luxurious accommodation.<br />

Approaching the shop required awkward hops<br />

through high, white dunes, and once there<br />

Nelson forced its door with his shoulder. Inside,<br />

and strewn everywhere, laid a disarray of<br />

skis. In mismatched pairs old or new, large or<br />

small, the floor was a felled forest of yellowed<br />

planks. This plus the La Francesca had to be<br />

rock bottom, surely, but the boot room proved<br />

otherwise.<br />


A dynamic demonstration of the benefits to be found beyond 'the known'. photo: P.M.Fadden

The author; finding footing atop the Catalunya Pyrenees and (inset) reveling in ducky-pow<br />

among the Japan Alps." photo: P.M.Fadden<br />

A mule, happily chewing hay, reined<br />

over a bale someone—maybe Nelson—<br />

had thoughtfully placed in a corner. (The<br />

room was a heated shelter after all, and<br />

much snow had fallen.) The contented<br />

beast cast me an eye that implied I was<br />

the actual ass. And I sighed to sense the<br />

legitimacy of the point.<br />

Meanwhile, Nelson scooped a pair of<br />

158 Vokl Supersports from the melee (I<br />

am 191cm) hoisting the skis, he purred<br />

“Classes, Plata,” and “Eetz-Eem-Por-<br />

Tant.”<br />

‘Plata’ signifies money, like ‘bucks’<br />

denotes cash, and my employer knew<br />

full-well my need. Beaming, Nelson<br />

dodged the mule to retrieve a pair of<br />

shit-kicker Langes. And that rounded-out<br />

my kit.<br />

The assignment: resuscitate the shop<br />

then work as its instructor, with no ski<br />

experience whatsoever.<br />

The following months are etched in<br />

my bones as much as memory. Boil<br />

water, chop wood, ski-train with Nelson,<br />

shovel; feed the mule, sort gear, and<br />

share the romance of sliding downhill<br />

with the citizens of Santiago. Nelson’s<br />

bread and butter were those city folk.<br />

A foreigner-lead class was incentive to<br />

buy. That I was a learner myself seemed<br />

beside the point.<br />

At first, the incessant pace of each day<br />

slowed my recognition of the seed which<br />

was growing. By the time I did, it was<br />

there to stay. A surprise longing to ski<br />

had overgrown the shock of being made<br />

to. A dormant thing awoke and it defied<br />


equip<br />

yourself!<br />

all physical laws save gravity. Whether<br />

blistering sun or bitter cold, I skied. I<br />

hiked last lines while sun set. The ‘Plata’<br />

no longer mattered.<br />

Then a big daddy storm came to call.<br />

Vicious wind coupled by low visibility<br />

closed Lagunillas for three days, sending<br />

Nelson (and the mule) scurrying to the<br />

valley below. I was forgotten, lightless<br />

and isolated within La Francesca. But<br />

rather than shiver, I made a date with<br />

said storm. Battening all hatches, and<br />

touching wood for an absent beacon,<br />

I set a boot pack into void. It was a<br />

scenario I’d never imagined for myself<br />

yet somehow felt drawn to all the same;<br />

navigating by inner compass, seeking to<br />

carve my own line leading home.<br />

Years have passed, yet skiing remains<br />

the source. For it I’ve risked frostbite,<br />

suffered crooks, lied to bosses, bailed<br />

on girlfriends, crashed in bathtubs, and<br />

accepted without reservation that this,<br />

to me, is a lifelong romance, simply<br />

because Eetz-Eem-Por-Tant. Sometimes<br />

that’s all there is to say.<br />

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Installation is simple… just open each ear pad up and remove the<br />

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CUSTOM<br />


GROUP<br />

COMMS<br />

FRIEND<br />

FINDER<br />





By Steve Dickinson<br />

Despite our best intentions, when<br />

the air gets chilly, we tend to back<br />

off. Fish are a cold-blooded creature,<br />

they appreciate temperature, but<br />

they do not react to it as extremely<br />

as we do, however, like many<br />

people, fish tend to be less active<br />

in the cold. As cold-blooded<br />

creatures, their metabolism dips<br />

when temperatures take a dive. But<br />

they still have to eat, maybe a little<br />

less but if they eat, then they can be<br />

caught – simple.<br />

We spoke to a range of cold weather<br />

experts; fishermen, search and<br />

rescue, alpine guides, and ski patrol<br />

and this is their input. The simple key<br />

to enjoying the cold is staying warm.<br />

That is it, simple.<br />

If it gets cold and you want to stay<br />

warm the first rule, is you need to<br />

stay dry. Fishing and keeping dry<br />

may not be as easy as it sounds.<br />

The simplest solution is to keep a<br />

dry towel to dry your hands with after<br />

catching a fish or drying your legs<br />

with when launching a boat. The<br />

smallest hole in your waders will let<br />

in icy water and once your clothes<br />

are wet, especially if they are not<br />

wool, you are going to get cold quick,<br />

so no leaks. In winter on our boat I<br />

keep a dry towel in a dry bag just for<br />

towelling off, a second towel to keep<br />

drying your hands after catching fish.<br />

Second must do; is keeping your<br />

head warm. We lose 80% of our<br />

body heat via your head. You need a<br />

woollen beanie, balaclava, or buff. Of<br />

late I have been using a buff in that<br />

they are versatile, if you get too hot<br />

you can pull it down to your neck, if it<br />

gets real cold, you can use it pulling<br />

up over your ears and head, they<br />

just give you more options. But buy<br />

a good one there are loads of cheap<br />

synthetic ones on the market that<br />

are next too useless. A beanie and<br />

a buff can also be a good combo if<br />

it is really chilly. Word of advice, if<br />

you pull the buff up over your neck<br />

then over your mouth, your breath<br />

will cause condensation, which make<br />

the buff wet, remember keeping dry<br />

is the key.<br />

After making sure your head is<br />

warm next you need to look after<br />

your other extremities. Starting from<br />

the ground up, in waders make<br />

sure you have woollen socks, once<br />

again do not buy cheap. Even if<br />

the product says merino, not all<br />

merino is made equal. You tend to<br />

get what you pay for. Merion is light<br />

weight, breathable, merino manages<br />

moisture by a process called wicking<br />

– in that it will pull moisture away<br />

from your body which if chilled with<br />

make you cold. Merino is also antibacterial<br />

and odour resistance.<br />

Never use synthetic or worse cotton,<br />

as it is quick to suck up water, slow<br />

to dry and should never be worn<br />

next to your skin. If like me you find<br />

wool itchy, there are now a range of<br />

synthetic /wool blends and silk/wool<br />

blends which are easy to wear. Wool<br />

dries quickly and will retain some<br />

heat if it gets wet and has great<br />

thermal qualities – just ask sheep.<br />

Your other extremities are your<br />

hands, ears, and nose. There are<br />

a range of fingerless gloves on the<br />

market which are great for fishing. A<br />

well-known guide showed me a trick<br />

once where he had an additional pair<br />

of extra-large woollen gloves that he<br />

wore over his fingerless gloves for<br />

travelling. For ears and nose they<br />

can be looked after by your buff.<br />

There are a range of commercial<br />



hand warmers, they come in an array<br />

of sizes, and some are reusable. You<br />

either snap or mix them which causes a<br />

chemical reaction, and they warm up. Do<br />

not put them in your gloves – rather put<br />

them in a pocket so that if your gloves do<br />

get wet you can warm your hands up. I<br />

have heard of people putting them in their<br />

socks in their waders but really if it is that<br />

cold maybe stay home. To locate these if<br />

you cannot find in your local fishing store<br />

look to any ski outlet. Reusable ones<br />

are more expensive but with repeat use<br />

become a far better deal.<br />

The art of layering. There is an art to<br />

layering. Key rule, no cotton, only wool,<br />

some fleece, and microfleece. Over<br />

the last ten years there has been an<br />

explosion of quality layering products.<br />

What used to be just an itchy thermal<br />

layer and a woolly jumper that has all<br />

changed. There are now a full range of<br />

base layers, mid layers, and top layers. It<br />

is simple- when it is cold put more on.<br />

Fishing, unlike say tramping where you<br />

are constantly moving you need to be<br />

warm from the get-go. This includes<br />

fleece-based legging or pants. I have<br />

two different thickness fleeces legging<br />

I wear under my waders depending on<br />

how cold it is going to be. Top, I wear<br />

a RAB micro fleece, super lightweight,<br />

short sleeved, this is my go too product<br />

winter and summer. Mid layer long sleeve<br />

merino and if it is going to be cold, I add<br />

another layer on top, but making sure<br />

there is heaps of movement (not too tight<br />

for the last layer) – then jacket on top of<br />

that. An obvious observation is that you<br />

can always remove a layer, you cannot<br />

always add one. You do not want to be<br />

too hot so that you sweat, as sweat can<br />

chill off and make you colder. You want<br />

to be comfortably warm, and layering is a<br />

way to maintain that temperature control.<br />

When its cold drink plenty of water. Hot<br />

tea and coffee might seem a good idea,<br />

but you will need to pee, which mean<br />

exposure to the cold! A good option is hot<br />

water, or hot chocolate. What is a real<br />

‘no no’ is alcohol in any form as it lowers<br />

your core body temperature (even if it<br />

feels warm to begin with) – save that wee<br />

dram till you get back home and make it<br />

part of the boasting process, my winter<br />

suggestion is Fireballs.<br />

New Zealand is renowned for having<br />

four seasons in one day so be prepared<br />

– check the forecast but do not 100%<br />

believe it if it says all is good, be prepared<br />

for the worst.<br />

In winter it pays to fish with a friend<br />

should you take a tumble into the water<br />

someone is there to help out and in the<br />

worst-case scenario, go for help or at<br />

least be able to see the first signs of<br />

hypothermia.<br />

When we think of hypothermia, we<br />

think about people trapped on mountain<br />

side in a storm. That is not the case.<br />

Hypothermia can easily occur when you<br />

are exposed to cold air, water, wind, or<br />

rain. Your body temperature can drop to<br />

a dangerously low level at temperatures<br />

of only 10° or higher in wet and windy<br />

weather, or if you are in 16° to 21° of<br />

water you are at risk of hypothermia.<br />

It can happen easily, I once got<br />

hypothermia waiting for a bus in winter.<br />

Symptoms and signs<br />

•person feels cold to touch and may be<br />

shivering violently.<br />

•tiredness – person may fall behind when<br />

walking.<br />

•clumsy, uncoordinated, may fall over and<br />

appear drunk.<br />

•changes in mood with irritability, irrational<br />

behaviour<br />

•person may resist help.<br />

•slow to respond to questions.<br />

•shivering may decrease and stop – this<br />

is a critical sign.<br />

•loss of consciousness<br />

•pale or blueish skin colour<br />

What to do?<br />

The best treatment for hypothermia<br />

is prevention. But if you suspect<br />

hypothermia, the aim of helping the<br />

person is to stop further heat loss and<br />

warm the patient slowly.<br />

•Provide immediate shelter out of the<br />

wind and dry clothing.<br />

•If fully conscious, give warm drinks,<br />

lollies, chocolate, etc.<br />

•If isolated, body contact to reduce heat<br />

loss and slowly warm – e.g. huddle<br />

around the patient in a sleeping bag.<br />

•Get help.<br />

Winter fishing is all about comfort and<br />

safety. The two should go hand in hand.<br />

In most cases there should be little risk<br />

as long as people are sensible and<br />

aware. In winter it pays not to go as far<br />

from your safety access – your vehicle,<br />

accommodation etc. However if you are<br />

going further you need to make sure<br />

you are prepared. Prepare for the cold,<br />

prepare for the worst and you will be<br />

comfortable, safe, and prepared for winter<br />

fun.<br />


xposure<br />

Photographer: Andrew Chad,<br />

Athlete: Corey Seemann,<br />

Location: Jackson, WY, United States<br />

About the shot: If you ever want to frustrate<br />

yourself, try shooting skiing at night with a<br />

flash. We had an idea of what may happen if<br />

everything went in our favour, but that's the<br />

beauty of photography, it usually doesn't. So,<br />

when this image showed up on the back of the<br />

camera at the end of a week-long ski trip, we<br />

called it a night. Because sometimes a little bit<br />

of dumb luck is all you need. The image is fairly<br />

simple when it's broken down. A dark room,<br />

single flash and a white bounce sheet are the<br />

basic concepts here. Tracking the subject though<br />

the dark was a little tricky, but thank god for<br />

modeling lights. But what makes it special to me<br />

is the fact that Corey was wearing his daylight<br />

lenses in the middle of the night. The coloured<br />

lenses and the reflection of the snow in them is<br />

the real treat of the image.<br />

Photographer Credit: Red Bull Illume 2021

WINTER<br />


There are moments in a Mackenzie<br />

winter that stand out and define<br />

the season: breathing in crisp<br />

alpine air, the contrast of snowy<br />

white mountains against bright blue<br />

skies, local eateries with roaring<br />

fires and hearty tucker – the perfect<br />

way to warm up with good cheer<br />

after a day exploring an alpine<br />

wonderland. The comfort of steam<br />

rising from hot pools while you<br />

admire the starry skies followed by<br />

a perfect sleep in blissful silence<br />

after a busy day.<br />

So head outdoors and come play<br />

in our expansive mountain-ringed<br />

plateau – the legendary Mackenzie!<br />



REGION<br />

*<br />

Heliskiing ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//49<br />

- image by Mount Cook Heliski.

Mt Dobson - Image by Jeremy Lyttle<br />


The Mackenzie Region has three ski fields, all situated within an<br />

easy drive of each other. These family-owned fields offer laid back<br />

uncrowded skiing and boarding with outstanding views of the<br />

lakes and mountains.<br />

Mount Dobson<br />

‘Dobbo’ as it’s known to locals, is located between Fairlie and<br />

Lake Tekapo. Famous for all-day sun, large learners area and<br />

regular snowfalls on the peaks. Go up past the groomed trails<br />

to try some off-piste on the smooth powder with views of lakes<br />

Tekapo & Pūkaki. Warming up at the historic Silverstream Hotel<br />

Pub afterwards is a must. A long standing establishment since<br />

1877, the pub offers craft beer, delicious meals, and live bands.<br />

Celebrate your day on the slopes in true rural style with a visit to<br />

this treasure!<br />

Roundhill Ski Area<br />

Close to Lake Tekapo, Roundhill is one of the country’s largest ski<br />

resorts at a whopping 500 hectares. The access road is one of<br />

the safest (no scary drop offs), and the carpark is adjacent to the<br />

learners area where you’ll often find adults cooking on the BBQ<br />

while the kids learn the basics. The more adventurous skier will<br />

love Australasia’s biggest vertical drop (783m). Located at the top<br />

of the T-bar is the precious von Brown Hut, a licensed café with<br />

some of the best views in the world. Try their speciality drinks 'The<br />

Jumping Goat' and the 'B&B Coffee'.<br />

Roundhill Ski Area - Image by Blackbird Media<br />

Ōhau Snow Fields<br />

Not far from Twizel is Ōhau Snow Fields. This is classic Kiwi<br />

skiing with the lodge offering old school charm with roaring<br />

log fire, group-style dining, and a cosy bar. All ski abilities are<br />

catered for, and there is some adventurous terrain near the top.<br />

Stay the night at the lodge, or simply drive over from your Twizel<br />

accommodation for a day on the slopes. The views of Lake Ōhau<br />

have to be seen to believed!<br />

Ōhau Snow Field - Image supplied<br />


Snow shoeing with Alpine Recreation<br />


The Haupapa/Tasman Glacier is New Zealand’s largest<br />

glacier, and you can ski on top of it! And best of all, you<br />

needn’t be a hardcore professional, this is for intermediate<br />

level skiers. The runs are blue/green and range from 8-10km.<br />

After getting dropped off by helicopter or skiplane you<br />

find yourself on top of the glacier with mountains in every<br />

direction, including the mighty Aoraki/Mount Cook. The<br />

stillness up there is profound, no rustling leaves or singing<br />

birds – just silence and the occasional avalanche far away<br />

(don’t worry, it’s safe on the glacier). Explore ice caves and<br />

incredible ice formations at a relaxed pace with your guide.<br />

This is one bucket-list item that’s truly achievable by almost<br />

any skier.<br />

HELI-SKI<br />

After some adventure? You must be, you’re currently reading<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine! Look no further than heli-ski, this is truly<br />

the stuff that puts you ‘above and beyond’. Charter a flight for<br />

a multi-day skiing adventure. Soar above the vibrant turquoise<br />

lakes, glaciers, and icebergs to spend your day amongst<br />

lofty mountain peaks, skiing virgin snow and revelling in the<br />

grandeur of it all.<br />


With the arrival of the winter snows the Southern Alps are<br />

transformed from tussock lands into an extensive playground<br />

for snowshoeing. Alpine Recreation offer 2-5 day trips from<br />

their Rex Simpson Hut at Lake Tekapo. Situated in the Kahui<br />

Kaupeka Conservation Park, part of the Two Thumb Range,<br />

you can enjoy views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and the Main<br />

Divide. It’s wonderful to be exploring the snowy valleys, icecovered<br />

streams, and relax in the evening at the hut nicely<br />

warmed by a logburner. Three days is the recommended trip<br />

length, but even if you just have a weekend to spare you’ll still<br />

get a refreshing break from the normal in a winter wonderland.<br />

Mueller Hut - Image by Siller Francisco<br />


A winter walk is a great way to boost energy and wake up your<br />

immune system to stave off any winter colds! The fresh air and<br />

incredible snowy mountain views are sure to feed your soul while<br />

you get some exercise.<br />

To get right amongst the mountains you can’t beat hiking up to<br />

Mueller Hut in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. Dubbed the<br />

stairway to heaven, the Sealy Tarns Track in the Aoraki/Mount<br />

Cook National Park is a must for the fit adventurer. 2,200 steps<br />

take you straight up the freshwater lakes of Sealy Tarns providing<br />

spectacular views of the Hooker Valley and the National Park.<br />

The track branches off from the Kea Point track in the village<br />

and is steep with a total height gain of 600m. Those wanting an<br />

overnight adventure continue can continue on the alpine route<br />

for a couple of hours to Mueller Hut. This 28-bunk hut has gas<br />

cookers and solar lighting. During winter it’s strongly advised to<br />

bring an ice axe, walking poles and crampons. Pay the hut fee at<br />

the Department of Conservation visitor centre in the Aoraki/Mount<br />

Cook village, register your intentions, and check the avalanche<br />

advisory report as there is some avalanche risk along the route.<br />


Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail<br />


Aoraki/Mount Cook & Lake Tekapo are the two starting<br />

points for the world-famous 315km Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.<br />

This nine-section trail stretches from the Southern Alps to<br />

the Pacific Ocean. If riding the full trail doesn’t fit with your<br />

schedule, try one of the day rides. Some of the most scenic<br />

sections are near the town of Twizel.<br />

There are many recognised benefits of winter cycling. You’ll<br />

burn more calories due your body working harder to stay<br />

warm. Studies have shown that your resting metabolic rate<br />

increases when you’re exposed to cold. It all adds up to a fitter<br />

body while your lazy mates are busy with Netflix and chill.<br />

Some tips for staying safe while winter cycling include lowering<br />

your saddle to lower centre of gravity and decrease wobble<br />

on ice, letting some air out of the tyres to increase traction,<br />

layering appropriately, and wearing gloves.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> South have a winter Alps 2 Ocean packaged<br />

tour that includes mulled wine, hot water bottles, warm fires,<br />

soaking in hot pools, and much more to ensure total comfort<br />

for the six-day tour.<br />


Winter is the best time to experience the protected ‘park in the<br />

sky’, the 4,367sq km Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky<br />

Reserve. It gets darker sooner, and the centre of the Milky Way<br />

is right above you. The spacious landscape coupled with strict<br />

lighting controls ensures you’ll get a stellar view of the night<br />

sky in the Mackenzie. There’s a wide range of paid tours to<br />

choose from: a working observatory, floating in hammocks in<br />

hot pools, a wine cellar, farm tours, and even small group tours<br />

that deliver a bespoke experience at your accommodation.<br />

You can also try your hand at astrophotography with one of the<br />

region’s talented guide/photographers.<br />

View from Mt John – Dark Sky Project<br />

Another option is to bring plenty some cosy blankets and<br />

folding chairs (don’t forget a thermos of hot chocolate!)<br />

and find your own special place to ponder the universe<br />

beneath the stars. There are plenty of good locations on<br />

the canal roads, and seeing the stars reflected in the water<br />

is truly a special sight.<br />


Everything you need for the ultimate day out is at Tekapo<br />

Springs. Try a thrilling snow tube ride, ice skate on the<br />

outdoor rink, then warm up in the hot pools. The onsite<br />

café is fully licensed with a wide range of food and drink<br />

for everyone. Treat yourself to a massage or beauty<br />

treatment at the day spa, or stargaze from a hot pool with<br />

their Tekapo Star Gazing tours at night.<br />


"<br />

mindfulness = attention+intention<br />

We have all done it.<br />

Rocked up to the boat, the ski<br />

field, the rugby game, or the hike,<br />

not feeling 100%. Sure, it was<br />

great meeting up with friends the<br />

night before but then adding too<br />

much merriment to the evening<br />

basically ruins the following day,<br />

possibly the week. You might not<br />

even be hung-over or sick, but<br />

the remnant of alcohol removes<br />

your edge, or, to use a term that<br />

has been used a lot recently, the<br />

alcohol impacts or removes your<br />

‘intention’.<br />

Intention; is defined as a noun<br />

as something that you want and<br />

plan to do:<br />

Stress, health, circumstance,<br />

weather can all get in the way of<br />

our intention.<br />

But alcohol is a substance that<br />

we ‘choose’ to add that often<br />

gets in the way of our core<br />

intentions.<br />

Your intention was to go fishing,<br />

skiing, biking, or tramping. Not to<br />

feel like ‘ah shit’ for the morning<br />

waiting for the alcohol fog to lift.<br />

With “Dry July” looming and with<br />

the event becoming more and<br />

more popular, it is a good time<br />

to look at our drinking culture.<br />

This is not a goodie-two-shoes,<br />

finger-pointing, evangelical<br />

crusade against alcohol. This is<br />

a look at being mindful, (which is<br />

very WOKE at present) paying<br />

attention and maintaining the<br />

right intention.<br />

What is mindful drinking?<br />

Mindfulness = attention +<br />

intention<br />

Mindfulness is about paying<br />

attention. So many of us go<br />

through life never really noticing<br />

or even considering how we feel,<br />

what’s going on in our heads,<br />

or how we respond to the world<br />

around us.<br />

An addictive world can creep<br />

up on us slowly, it is not always<br />

alcohol or drugs but can be<br />

anything, anything that we feel<br />

we must do ‘or feel compelled to<br />

do’, from that 5k run every day<br />

to simply checking your phone<br />

messages as soon as you wake<br />

up. Unaware repetition is the<br />

subliminal cancer that can rob us<br />

of our intention.<br />

If someone asked you the night<br />

before, ‘do you want to just<br />

have an average day skiing<br />

and feel sick or do you want<br />

this third glass of wine’ – it’s an<br />

easy answer. But only if you<br />

are attentive, if someone else is<br />

pouring your wine or you are not<br />

aware of time and numbers –<br />

you are not mindfully drinking.<br />

Mindfulness is also about living<br />

with intention. Sometimes it<br />

feels like life is happening to<br />

us, it is the way we have been<br />

"<br />

programmed. But<br />

as we notice what’s<br />

going on inside us and<br />

how we react to other<br />

people, we can begin<br />

to take control.<br />

We start to live<br />

deliberately. Making<br />

things happen for us<br />

instead of to us.<br />

Mindfulness is also about<br />

living with intention.

Living with intention<br />

Your intention can revolve around an<br />

experience or it can revolve around your<br />

whole life. Some are happy and don’t<br />

need to make any changes, others want<br />

change but are not sure how to bring it<br />

about and some simply have not noticed.<br />

Our reasons for wanting to change are as<br />

diverse as we are.<br />

So much of our culture revolves around<br />

alcohol and it is not until you stop that<br />

you realise how often that connection is<br />

there. If for no other reason do Dry July<br />

so that you can see for yourself how<br />

often and how basic that connection is,<br />

once you have identified it, it makes your<br />

intention so much easy to fulfil.<br />

Mindful drinking really is as simple as<br />

paying attention and living with intention.<br />

Drinking is not about getting drunk,<br />

it’s just a by-product. But the social<br />

aspect, not even pressure just location<br />

and process, can make not drinking<br />

uncomfortable, difficult. As awareness<br />

of the impact of drinking has grown, we<br />

have seen a growth of non-alcohol and<br />

low alcohol beverages bloom. I recall<br />

vividly receiving a pallet of non-alcoholic<br />

Heineken as a promotion and didn’t really<br />

know what to do with it. We all agreed<br />

it would never take off. We were wrong,<br />

now, supermarkets have whole sections<br />

dedicated to non-alcoholic drinks. I am<br />

a fussy beer drinker, I prefer a strong<br />

flavoured IPA, and now, sure enough,<br />

there are several on the market that is<br />

alcohol free.<br />

In the US there are now full blow AF<br />

(alcohol-free) bars. In New Zealand,<br />

we have seen the alcohol-free range<br />

increase, particularly online. Leading<br />

the way in selection is Clear Head<br />

Drinks an online company based here<br />

in New Zealand dedicated to alcoholfree<br />

beverages. We caught up with<br />

Donna and Rick and asked them how<br />

the company came about.<br />

How did clear head drinks come about?<br />

Clear Head Drinks was born out of<br />

the need from the co-founder of the<br />

company, Ricky Bartlett who decided<br />

to stop drinking alcohol 8 years ago<br />

but who wanted to still be able to drink<br />

alcoholic drinks but without the effects<br />

of alcohol. Looking around there was a<br />

very limited supply of drinks and those<br />

drinks that were available tended to be<br />

spread out amongst different shops,<br />

supermarkets, and online stores. The<br />

initial idea had been to gather all the<br />

drinks that were on the market and<br />

have them under one roof so that Kiwis<br />

had one place that they could come<br />

to buy NA/Alcohol-free drinks knowing<br />

that they were looking at the complete<br />

collection. The problem was that not<br />

all those drinks tasted any good and<br />

so we decided to look overseas where<br />

the markets were more established<br />

to find a wider variety. At that time,<br />

even though New Zealand was a<br />

craft beer nation, there were no NA or<br />

alcohol-free craft beers available that<br />

were brewed in NZ and so we went<br />

out to the USA, Europe, Canada, and<br />

Australia to find a range that would<br />

satisfy thirsty Kiwis. This is how the<br />

current set-up came into being and<br />

Clear Head Drinks now has a large<br />

range of beverage options from NZ<br />

and from overseas with many of those<br />

drinks being world leaders in their field.<br />

What was the biggest challenge you<br />

had in establishing the company?<br />

Clear Head Drinks was the first,<br />

dedicated NA/Alcohol Free online<br />

store in the country and so being the<br />

first brought with it some challenges<br />

because this path had not been walked<br />

before. Connecting with suppliers from<br />

overseas, arranging freight at a time<br />

when the supply chain was starting<br />

to be affected by Covid and coming<br />

up with the funds to be able to buy<br />

large amounts of stock to bring into<br />

the country were all big challenges. A<br />

large stumbling block was our website.<br />

We had a launch date in mind, but the<br />

development of the website did not go<br />

according to plan and so everything<br />

was delayed as we found a new<br />

website developer, and this turned<br />

out to be an expensive and timeconsuming<br />

exercise.<br />

"<br />

Clear Head Drinks was born out of the need from the co-founder of<br />

the company, Ricky Bartlett who decided to stop drinking alcohol 8<br />

years ago but who wanted to still be able to drink alcoholic drinks but<br />

without the effects of alcohol.<br />


" We will continue<br />

to do our part<br />

by bringing an<br />

extensive range of<br />

quality, healthy<br />

and tasty nonalcoholic<br />

drinks<br />

to the NZ market.<br />

As with the emergence of low alcohol beer<br />

did you originally feel any resistance to the<br />

concept?<br />

The idea for Clear Head Drinks came about<br />

8 years ago but it wasn't until the first full<br />

lock down that we acted and began building<br />

the company. If we had started the company<br />

when we had the idea, it could have been<br />

a different story as the non-alcoholic<br />

movement hadn't really taken off at that time<br />

and there was resistance to the concept.<br />

Fast forward 7 years and the overall move to<br />

a more "wellness" focused society in general<br />

and NA/Alcohol-free drinking had become<br />

more and more accepted worldwide and that<br />

acceptance was certainly growing here in<br />

NZ. When we asked people about our idea<br />

we were constantly greeted with positive<br />

feedback and people saying how there was a<br />

market for drinks like this and how more and<br />

more adults wanted to move away from the<br />

harmful effects of alcohol. You always had<br />

the odd person who would say "what's the<br />

point" but generally people understood and<br />

were hugely supportive and there is no doubt<br />

that Kiwis have really welcomed the idea<br />

with open arms.<br />

On a day-to-day level – week by week, have<br />

you been affected by distribution issues?<br />

The distribution issues have been twofold<br />

for us with delays and cost increases<br />

when bringing the stock in from overseas<br />

as well as delivery issues here at home.<br />

The importing of goods has become harder<br />

thanks to container shortages and the effect<br />

of covid on the distribution network (as well<br />

as boats getting stuck in Canals!) and so this<br />

has not only increased the time to get stock<br />

from abroad, but the costs have gone up. At<br />

home, the problems have been, again, due<br />

to the covid issue which has taken courier<br />

drivers off the road, and slowed the ability<br />

for our warehouse to pick, pack and dispatch<br />

orders and this has led to delays.<br />

I am aware that beer has a used by<br />

date – how do you factor that in with<br />

such and extensive range?<br />

There is a lot of juggling that needs to<br />

be done to have products in the store<br />

that have a significant shelf life so<br />

that customers have the certainty that<br />

when the drinks arrive, they are going<br />

to be as good as they can be. When<br />

purchasing from Europe for instance, it<br />

can take up to 3 months for the ship to<br />

arrive and if the product has, like with<br />

Beer, a 12-month shelf life then it is<br />

imperative that what is sent to us is as<br />

fresh as possible to make sure that we<br />

have plenty of time to be able to sell<br />

the goods and that when they arrive<br />

at your door they taste as good as<br />

they should. Keeping a close eye on<br />

when the "best before" dates run out<br />

enables us to order in the appropriate<br />

time frames so that we always have<br />

the best stock on hand.<br />

Do you see a trend in what is popular<br />

– what sells best?<br />

There is no question that New Zealand<br />

is more of a beer nation than anything<br />

else and so we probably sell more<br />

craft beer than any other drink. We<br />

do also sell a great deal of sparkling<br />

wine and one of our exclusive brands,<br />

Thomson & Scott, is our biggest<br />

selling individual product. We are<br />

finding that buyers are willing to try<br />

new things and that is why we look to<br />

increase our range on a regular basis<br />

to give more choice and variety.<br />

There is a worldwide trend to AF bars<br />

– do you think that will start to happen<br />

in New Zealand?<br />

The trend towards non-alcoholic<br />

bars is one that we feel is inevitable<br />

here in New Zealand. There was an<br />

attempt in 2015 with a bar called "Tap<br />

Bar" in Auckland but it didn't work as<br />

the market wasn't ready for it and the<br />

concept of the bar, opening at midnight<br />

to gather those spilling out of other<br />

bars, just didn't fly.<br />

Fast forward to 2022 and Unleaded<br />

Alcohol-Free opened in the Wairarapa,<br />

initially as part of the Greytown<br />

truckstop venue. Unleaded has been<br />

well received with even sceptical<br />

patrons becoming happy customers.<br />

With NA/Alcohol-free drinks becoming<br />

more mainstream, we do see AF bars<br />

having their place in NZ and it is only<br />

a matter of time before this happens<br />

across the country, initially with "popup"<br />

bars and then with permanent<br />

venues.<br />

What does the future look like for clear<br />

head drinks?<br />

The NA/AF drinks market is only just<br />

beginning here in NZ. There is a great<br />

deal of interest in the category, but bars<br />

and restaurants are still very slow in<br />

adopting the idea of alcoholic drinks<br />

and where they have jumped on board,<br />

the options are limited. There is no<br />

question that when NA/AF drinks are<br />

available they sell and so it's a case of<br />

educating more hospitality premises so<br />

that they understand that they can sell<br />

this style of drinks, keep more of their<br />

customers happy and make margin at<br />

the same time. We will continue to do<br />

our part by bringing an extensive range<br />

of quality, healthy and tasty drinks<br />

to the NZ market and continuing to<br />

push the message that you can drink<br />

authentic, great-tasting adult drinks,<br />

and continue to enjoy the ritual of<br />

drinking but not suffer the harm that<br />

comes with alcohol.<br />


New Zealand’s first online store<br />

solely dedicated to Non Alcoholic<br />

adult drinks.<br />

Perfect after a days adventuring - satisfy<br />

the taste without the after effects. Adult<br />

drinks that make you feel part of the<br />

socialising yet let you wake up the next<br />

day with a clear head ready for your<br />

next adventure.<br />

.<br />

No matter your reason.......we’ve got you covered<br />

Beers - Wines - Spirits - RTD’s - Ciders - All delivered to your door<br />


Got the pip<br />

In the mix<br />

O%<br />

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz<br />

www.lyres.com<br />

www.stateofgracedrinks.co.nz<br />

www.mondaydistillery.com<br />

www.hancocks.co.nz<br />

In the spirit<br />

On the hop<br />


Unlike anywhere else?<br />

Yip. Here’s why...<br />

For starters, it’s not crowded.<br />

And the snow is incredible, because of, well,<br />

British Columbia winters.<br />

It could be just like anywhere else, but it ain’t.<br />

Come on over.<br />

There’s plenty of room.<br />

And the runs are endless, which means<br />

tired legs will be stoked to sink into the<br />

country’s largest slope-side outdoor<br />

hot pools. Let that soak in!<br />

The accommodation is right beside the lifts,<br />

our team is super-friendly, and well,<br />

it’s Canada, eh? The only thing stuck up here is<br />

the top of the mountain. It’s all pretty chill.<br />

(Except for the hot pools. Those are warm.)<br />

Save up to<br />

50% OFF<br />


See PanoramaResort.com/NZ for details.<br />

1.800.663.2929 / PanoramaResort.com



Established in 2013 The Cardrona experience is situated at<br />

the base of Cardrona Alpine Resort, just 45 minutes from<br />

Queenstown and 20 minutes from Wanaka town centre. It was<br />

started by Kel who had a passion for the region and a deep<br />

love of horses, which she combined to create an unforgettable<br />

kiwi experience for everyone.<br />

Simply The Cardrona activity centre offers first-class, familyfriendly<br />

guided horse treks and quad biking adventures in the<br />

stunning Cardrona Valley. You can explore The Cardrona’s<br />

unique slice of high-country heaven by horseback and quad<br />

bikes, summer or winter, all year-round.<br />

The handpicked trekking horses, with their kind and gentle<br />

temperament, take you on an unforgettable journey in the<br />

mountains. With a range of ages, heights and ‘horsanalities’<br />

across the herd, The Cardrona can cater to different weights<br />

and experience levels.<br />

By horseback or quad you can experience the rugged highcountry<br />

scenery, see its changing moods and picturesque<br />

seasons which Cardrona Valley is renowned for. Learn about<br />

the regions gold-mining history, you check out the working<br />

farm and grab a beer at the iconic Cardrona Hotel. The<br />

possibilities are endless.<br />

Group sizes are small & book out quickly so be sure to lock in<br />

your saddles early to avoid missing out!<br />

Beginners’ options – to advance All levels catered for<br />

• Cost $199 - $349<br />

• How to book www.thecardrona.co.nz<br />

The most special and exciting way to create your lasting Wanaka memories is from<br />

horseback or quad bike high up in the stunning mountains of The Cardrona.<br />

Ride out with THE CARDRONA today to discover the secrets of our unique alpine paradise!<br />


Reviews from<br />

millions of Tripadvisor<br />

travellers place this<br />

attraction in the top<br />

10% worldwide.<br />

Come cycling in stunning<br />

Central Otago and let the<br />

experts look after all your needs<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail<br />

and more...<br />

Roxburgh Gorge trail view<br />

Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366<br />

Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days<br />

Cromwell Bike Shop open 7 days<br />

www.bikeitnow.co.nz<br />

Tripadvisor<br />

Travellers’<br />

Choice<br />

Bike It Now!<br />




By Lynne Dickinson<br />

If you take a moment to do a little bit of people watching, you<br />

will notice that nearly every second person will be wearing what<br />

we used to call a “puffer jacket”. These days they are not just for<br />

the avid adventurer, insulated jackets have become a staple in<br />

everyone’s wardrobe and there is such a variety of them that it is<br />

easy to get overwhelmed by the choice.<br />

There are now quite a wide range of fills available, and each<br />

comes with its pros and cons, so it’s about deciding which one<br />

best suits your needs.<br />

Synthetic: These used to be the underdogs of the<br />

insulated jackets, but as technology has improved<br />

so has the ability to imitate what nature provides.<br />

Synthetic fill jackets now are able to imitate the<br />

properties of down and yet remain water resistant<br />

enabling you to use your jacket in wet conditions.<br />

The downside in the past has been the warmth-toweight<br />

ratio, however, new synthetic insulation, seen<br />

in some of the high-end technical jackets have been<br />

engineered to resemble to warmth-to-weight ratios of<br />

down, and others have developed synthetic fill that is<br />

able to breathe in high-output activities.<br />


ab Xenon 2.0 Jacket $279.95<br />

An all-mountain lightweight, synthetic insulated<br />

jacket using 100% post-consumer recycled<br />

PrimaLoft® Silver insulation and a weather<br />

resistant recycled Pertex® Quantam outer.<br />


patagonia Micro Puff® Jacket $399.99<br />

The best warmth for weight of any jacket Patagonia has ever<br />

built, the Micro Puff® Jacket delivers ultralightweight, waterresistant,<br />

down-like warmth with PlumaFill synthetic insulation<br />

– a revolutionary material that replicates the structure of down,<br />

offering the same warmth and packability but with the warmwhen-wet<br />

performance of synthetic insulation. This jacket is<br />

also Fair Trade Certified sewn, which means the people<br />

who made it earned a premium for their labour. It's available in<br />

men's and women's cuts, and a range of colours.<br />


Marmot Men’s Solus Jacket $299.95<br />

3M Thinsulate Recycled Featherless Jacket.<br />

Made with 75% recycled loose-fill fibres. As warm as<br />

700 fill power down, and maintains performance in<br />

wet conditions.<br />


Wool/synthetic:<br />

Wool has always been considered one of the best<br />

forms of insulation and this is now being used in<br />

insulated jackets. With a high warmth-to-weight ratio<br />

and its ability to performs well when wet, it’s being<br />

used in a variety of insulated jackets. The downside<br />

to wool is simply that it doesn’t reduce in size when<br />

packed.<br />

icebreaker Women's MerinoLoft Helix Jacket $399.99<br />

A technical lofted jacket made with sustainable<br />

merino wool and recycled materials, the Helix Jacket<br />

is a warm winter outer layer for everyday versatility.<br />



Down: Down jackets were always<br />

considered the penultimate in<br />

insulation. The down (usually geese<br />

or duck) has an incredibly high<br />

warmth-to-weight ratio and is the<br />

best insulator (pound-for-pound) in<br />

the world. It’s lightweight and packs<br />

down incredibly small.<br />

The main downside of the downfilled<br />

jackets is that they lose their<br />

heat retaining ability if they get wet.<br />

This has been counteracted with<br />

the development of water-resistant<br />

down. This is simply down treated<br />

with a water-resistant coating at<br />

a molecular level. Because the<br />

coating is applied at a micro scale<br />

it adds little weight and does not<br />

affect the loft.<br />

What is fill power? When looking<br />

at down jackets you want to take<br />

note of their “fill power”. This shows<br />

the quality of the down; the higher<br />

the number, the more volume the<br />

down will occupy. A 500-600 range<br />

fill will require more down (making it<br />

feel heavier and bulkier) to achieve<br />

the same warmth as a 800-900 fill.<br />

Baffles:<br />

These help maintain an even<br />

distribution of your fill and prevent<br />

the material from gathering at the<br />

bottom of your jacket.<br />

Wide baffles provide the warmest<br />

option, although they can<br />

sometimes feel bulky, whereas<br />

narrow baffles tend to compress<br />

the jacket more and therefore work<br />

well underneath a waterproof outer<br />

layer and are easy to pack up.<br />

The baffles have been designed<br />

to create real style and shape but<br />

if you are looking for warmth then<br />

you may want to consider the box<br />

wall stitched baffles as opposed<br />

to the stitch-through style. Stitchthrough<br />

keeps the insulation evenly<br />

spread, however the fact that it<br />

is stitched through the jacket can<br />

cause heat to be lost where the<br />

stitching is made, whereas the box<br />

wall stitching allows maximum loft<br />

and designed to prevent heat loss.<br />

Shell materials:<br />

The outer material will also depend<br />

on the use of your jacket. Some<br />

are completely waterproof, some<br />

water resistant and others not really<br />

designed for wet conditions.<br />

I have three insulated jackets in<br />

my wardrobe: One a classic down<br />

fill vest with durable waterproof<br />

resistant coating from Huffer with<br />

wide stitch-through baffles that I<br />

wear almost daily in the winter with<br />

jeans.<br />

One down-filled water-resistant<br />

jacket from RAB, super lightweight<br />

but super warm is my go-to when I<br />

am anywhere near the snow. I also<br />

take it hiking and it creates a great<br />

pillow when in its stuff sack.<br />

My other go-to is a featherless<br />

Insulation jacket from Marmot,<br />

which has a super stylish cut<br />

and cool baffle design. It’s warm<br />

enough to wear during the height of<br />

winter but stylish and compactable<br />

enough fit in any bag and not take<br />

up too much room.<br />

Marmot Women’s Highlander Hoody $449.95<br />

Pertex Quantum® fabric offers wind<br />

protection while also maximising the<br />

efficiency and warmth of 700-fillpower-down<br />

insulation. Lightweight<br />

and compressible.<br />


rab Cubit Stretch Down Vest $349.95<br />

Lightweight, packable and perfect<br />

for everyday wear, the Cubit Vest<br />

is cosy, stylish, stretchy, highly<br />

functional and gives new life to<br />

quality down.<br />


outdoor research Helium Down Hoody $449.99<br />

Durable, abrasion-resistant Pertex® Quantum, 800+ fill<br />

goose down. A waterproof version of Pertex® Shield with<br />

Diamond Fuse fabric adds weather protection to the hood and<br />

shoulders. Available in men's and women's specific versions.<br />



INSULATED....<br />

rab Cubit Stretch Down Hoody $499.95<br />

A functional, everyday wind-resistant<br />

and lightweight stretch down jacket<br />

filled with 700FP P.U.R.E recycled<br />

down and Pertex® 3D Weave outer.<br />


Marmot Men’s Hype Down Hoody $649.95<br />

800-fill-power down provides exceptional<br />

warmth, loft, and compactibility. Pertex<br />

Quantum® fabric protects from wind and<br />

improves the efficiency of insulation.<br />


rab Microlight Alpine Jacket $399.95<br />

Rab’s classic lightweight highly packable,<br />

multi-purpose down jacket is an everyday<br />

jacket and mountain layer featuring a fully<br />

recycled shell, insulation and lining.<br />


rab Valiance Jacket $699.95<br />

The ultimate warm and waterproof down<br />

jacket made from durable, waterproof<br />

Pertex® outer and filled with the highest<br />

quality 800 fill hydrophobic down, keeping<br />

you warm throughout the winter.<br />


outdoor research Coldfront Down Jacket $349.99<br />

700+ fill power of responsibly-sourced-down insulation,<br />

85%-recycled VerticalX ECO insulation on the top of the<br />

shoulders and in the cuffs for increased weather resistance and<br />

a 53%-recycled ripstop exterior to block wind and resist rain and<br />

snow. Features include internal wrist gaiters with thumb loops.<br />

Available in men's and women's specific versions.<br />


Marmot Women’s Featherless Jacket $399.95<br />

Lightweight 3M Thinsulate Recycled<br />

Featherless Jacket. Made with 75% recycled<br />

loose-fill fibres. As warm as 700 fill power down,<br />

and maintains performance in wet conditions.<br />


MID & SHELLS....<br />

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Shell $549.99<br />

A high-output piece designed to move and breathe<br />

with you, the Dawn Patrol Shell is the embodiment<br />

of durability. Designed with four-way stretch and<br />

double weave fabric, quick movements, banger uphill<br />

laps and light weather are all covered. Men’s and<br />

Women’s available.<br />


Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody $179.99<br />

The Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody offers<br />

ultimate sun coverage as well as water resistance for<br />

mountain missions with unpredictable weather.<br />

Men’s and Women’s available.<br />


rab Xenair Alpine Jacket $399.95<br />

An adaptable synthetic highly<br />

breathable, weather resistant<br />

insulated hoody perfect for<br />

alpine adventures. Made with<br />

Pertex® Quantum Air outer<br />

and insulated with PrimaLoft®<br />

Gold insulation.<br />


outdoor research snowcrew Jacket $399.99<br />

Designed for skiers and snowboarders, delivering<br />

performance, warmth and style with a 56%-recycled<br />

shell fabric and 85%-recycled insulation. Features<br />

an adjustable hood with a wire brim that fits most<br />

snowsports helmets, pit zips for ventilation, a<br />

powder skirt, fore-arm ski pass pocket and a doubleseparating<br />

front zip.<br />


outdoor research Archangel GORE-TEX Bibs $999.99<br />

3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility with 3-layer<br />

GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panels where you need<br />

them - on the knees, lower back and crotch gusset.<br />

Features include top to bottom zips, adjustable<br />

venting and cuff size adjustments to fit climbing or ski<br />

touring boots.<br />


66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid pants $479.99<br />

Designed with a single-minded focus on<br />

highly efficient mountain travel, the Dawn<br />

Patrol Pants are the quintessential highoutput<br />

touring pants. Men’s and Women’s<br />

available.<br />


icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Long Sleeve<br />

Half ZipT-Shirt $449.99<br />

A versatile, body-mapped zipneck<br />

top that’s ideal for highoutput<br />

mountain adventures,<br />

the ZoneKnitLong Sleeve<br />

Half Zip features 100% merino<br />

wool for all-natural warmth and<br />

temperature regulation.<br />


Icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Insulated Vest $399.99<br />

A body-mapped performance vest that’s ideal for<br />

high-output mountain adventures, the ZoneKnit<br />

Insulated Vest features 100% merino wool for allnatural<br />

warmth and temperature regulation.<br />


icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Short Sleeve T-Shirt $119.99<br />

Our most breathable and lightweight tee for highexertion<br />

activities, the ZoneKnit Short Sleeve Tee<br />

features a clean design with mesh panels to help<br />

regulate your body temperature.<br />






Range includes – Jackets, vests and<br />

women’s coats. Kids’ jackets available<br />

too.<br />

True to its name, the Uber Light Range<br />

provides lightweight warmth without<br />

the bulk. It's designed to be a versatile<br />

mid or outer layer — depending on the<br />

weather — and it's filled with 650 loft<br />

RDS duck down for cosy warmth. The<br />

lightweight nylon outer features a water<br />

repellent finish to help protect against<br />

moisture, while the elastic bound hem<br />

and cuffs help to trap heat inside the<br />

jacket to keep you warmer. The Uber is<br />

perfect for layering up this season.<br />

The Responsible Down Standard (RDS)<br />

is an independent, voluntary global<br />

standard in the ethical sourcing of down<br />

and feathers. All Macpac down is 100%<br />

RDS certified.<br />

Features:<br />

• 650 loft Responsible Down<br />

Standard duck down<br />

• Lightweight nylon shell with water<br />

repellent treatment<br />

• Elastic bound hem and cuffs<br />

• Zipped hand pockets<br />

• Packs into tiny stuff sack (included)<br />

PRICING FROM $159.99 - $289.99<br />



Range includes – Jackets and vests<br />

The Halo range balances warmth and<br />

versatility. This jacket is a great option<br />

for wearing around town, around the<br />

hills, and around the campsite.<br />

Its combination of 100% recycled<br />

fabrics and 600 loft RDS duck down<br />

provides plenty of feel good warmth.<br />

An adjustable hood, hem and cuffs help<br />

trap heat in, and a PFC-free WR finish<br />

encourages water to bead and roll off<br />

the fabric's surface.<br />

They have also updated a few features<br />

to modernise the style, as well as<br />

increasing the size of the internal<br />

pocket. This removes the need for a<br />

separate stuff sack because now you<br />

can pack the jacket in there instead.<br />

Features:<br />

• Internal draft tubes<br />

• Zipped hand pockets<br />

• Tricot lining on collar and hand<br />

pockets<br />

• Adjustable cuffs, hood and hems<br />

• Packs into internal pocket<br />

• Regular fit<br />

PRICING FROM $229.99 - $299.99<br />




Want to discover the comfiness and softness of 100%<br />

felted wool? Try glerups. Over time glerups will mould<br />

to your feet for all-day comfort. Available in slipper,<br />

shoe and boot with a leather or rubber sole.<br />

glerups is your best adventure accessory.<br />



The Wildfire Leather is ideal for everyday use, yet provides<br />

the support and stability required for hiking to light climbing.<br />

The high-quality, 1.4mm suede upper is supported by a<br />

protective rubber rand. Underfoot, the POMOCA® Speed<br />

MTN Path outsole has been developed to ensure versatile<br />

grip and sure-footed contact.<br />


SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $299.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 is a low-cut alpine hiking and trekking<br />

shoe built for enhanced performance and control in a wide<br />

spectrum of mountain terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede<br />

leather upper ensures good comfort and protection and<br />

is further reinforced with a full 360° rubber rand to see off<br />

rock and scree.<br />


SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $349.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric upper<br />

with a protective rubber rand for protection against rock, scree and<br />

debris. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal<br />

waterproofing and breathability. The EVA midsole provides superior<br />

cushioning and excellent comfort for a technical shoe.<br />



The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric<br />

upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX®<br />

Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability.<br />

The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers<br />

allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot.<br />



Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our<br />

lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well<br />

on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-<br />

TEX® lining makes it ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity<br />

levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.<br />



gasmate Alpine Butane Stove $79.99<br />

With a vaporisation tube for consistent<br />

performance at altitude, the Alpine stove is<br />

ideal for extended backcountry and alpine<br />

use. Lightweight at 450g with 11,850 BTUs of<br />

cooking power.<br />


Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set<br />

$149.00<br />

For quick boiling when you need it! A<br />

super lightweight aluminium stove with<br />

quick boil technology, piezo ignition<br />

and accessories all packaged in a<br />

handy mesh carry bag.<br />


Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -5°C Sleeping Bag<br />

$129.00<br />

The Mamaku Pro -5°C sleeping bag provides<br />

exceptional warmth on cold adventures. The<br />

semi-tapered design features a drawstringadjustable<br />

contoured hood that packs down<br />

into the handy compression bag for easy pack<br />

and carry.<br />


Kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping Bag<br />

$119.00<br />

The Mamaku Trek 0°C is perfect for lightweight<br />

hiking with a semi-tapered design and drawstring<br />

adjustable hood. Complete with thermal lining and<br />

YKK zippers.<br />


Rumpl Original Puffy Blanket - Geo $179.99<br />

The Original Puffy Blanket combines<br />

the same technical materials found in<br />

premium sleeping bags and insulated<br />

jackets to keep you cosy indoors and out.<br />


local dehy kumera chickpea curry<br />

$16.50<br />

Mildly spiced Indian curry with<br />

spinach & brown rice. Refuel after<br />

a day's adventure! Dehydrated.<br />

Vegan. Home compostable<br />

packaging.<br />


local dehy hummus $7.00<br />

Roasted Red Pepper & Sundried<br />

Tomato, also available in Beetroot<br />

and Zesty Lemon. Perfect for lunches<br />

on the trail. Dehydrated. Vegan.<br />

Home compostable packaging.<br />


kiwi camping Boost LED Light with<br />

Power Bank $89.99<br />

Bright LED light with power bank to<br />

illuminate your tent and charge devices<br />

on the go. Features 11 light modes<br />

including SOS signal, built-in magnets<br />

and hanging hook.<br />


Mr Heater Portable Buddy $339.00<br />

Portable Buddy is a propane gas heater that<br />

is both lightweight and robust heating up to<br />

18m². Featuring a low oxygen and accidental<br />

tip-over safety shut-off.<br />



sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power<br />

bank $119.00<br />

Built tough for the outdoors and with a<br />

massive battery capacity you can keep all<br />

your devices charged no matter where your<br />

adventure takes you.<br />


TIRED<br />

LEGS?<br />




DESSERT.<br />

deepcreek local ipa $3.79<br />

With only 93 calories per can,<br />

this mid-strength, refreshing, low<br />

calorie IPA is the perfect beer for<br />

the active lifestyle!<br />


KEA KIT: Outdoor Survival System<br />

Be fully prepared for your next adventure<br />

with KEA KIT. The compact, modular and<br />

durable survival kit that includes everything<br />

you need & nothing you don’t.<br />


hydro flask 12L Carry Out Soft<br />

Cooler 249.99<br />

Colder. Longer. Lighter. The<br />

perfect compact size to bring a<br />

little or a lot along for the day.<br />

Keeps items fresh for up to 24<br />

hours.<br />


backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

<br />

<br />

Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch<br />

Born from <strong>Adventure</strong>: Shackleton Blended<br />

Malt Scotch is based on the spirit supplied to<br />

the 1907 British Antarctic Expedition, expertly<br />

crafted using a selection of the finest Highland<br />

Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available at<br />

various Liquor Retailers .<br />



Inspired by the innovative,<br />

everchanging drinks scene,<br />

we instinctively knew how a<br />

drop of Jägermeister and a<br />

backbeat of cold brew coffee<br />

could transform any night. The<br />

enviable result? A brand-new<br />


BREW COFFEE. A unique<br />

fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s<br />

56 botanicals and intense cold<br />

brew coffee.<br />



The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed for the better<br />

by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They have also<br />

improved the readability of our back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.<br />

For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Quest bike trailers $1495 inc GST<br />

Designed and engineered<br />

in the Southern Alps of New<br />

Zealand, it will take you on<br />

and off the road carrying all<br />

the necessities to have a great<br />

time exploring our beautiful<br />

cycle trails or on that epic<br />

overseas adventure.<br />


aleck 006<br />

Universal Wireless Helmet Audio<br />

& Communication Aleck 006 is the<br />

bluetooth drop-in system that puts<br />

your soundtrack into your snow helmet<br />

and keeps you connected to friends<br />

and family with easy, push-to-talk<br />

communication.<br />


tasty chicken mash $9.49 - $13.99<br />

With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken,<br />

cheese and vegetables.<br />

3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />

Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)<br />


Apple & Berry Crumble $13.19<br />

A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and<br />

berries topped with a delicious gluten free<br />

cookie crumb.<br />

3 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />


INSTANT PASTA $4.89<br />

Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked<br />

pasta.<br />

3.5 Health Stars<br />

Sizes – Family 120g<br />



Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are<br />

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole<br />

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s<br />

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able<br />

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are<br />

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.<br />

Never have a dead phone<br />

again! Because now you can<br />

charge straight from the Sun<br />

with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />

that week-long hike, day at<br />

the beach, or back-up for any<br />

emergency. Check us out at:<br />

www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />

Experts at adventure travel since 2000<br />

We live what we sell!<br />

www.madabouttravel.co.nz<br />

www.adventuresouth.co.nz<br />

Whether you enjoy<br />

cycle trails, road<br />

cycling, mountain<br />

biking or walking,<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> South NZ<br />

can help you to explore<br />

New Zealand at<br />

your own pace.<br />

Our motto is “Going the<br />

distance” and we pride<br />

ourselves on providing top<br />

quality outdoor and travel<br />

equipment and service<br />

that will go the distance<br />

with you, wherever that<br />

may be.<br />

www.trekntravel.co.nz<br />

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />

www.patagonia.co.nz<br />

Stocking an extensive range<br />

of global outdoor adventure<br />

brands for your next big<br />

adventure. See them for travel,<br />

tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />

lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />

www.outfittersstore.nz<br />

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Our Mission<br />

To bring like-minded adventurers together for epic journey’s<br />

fuelled by top-notch coffee. All while supporting the things<br />

we care about and restoring nature.<br />

www.epiccoffee.co.nz<br />

Our very own online store where<br />

you will find hard goods to keep you<br />

equipped for any adventure.<br />


Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No<br />

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will<br />

have you covered.<br />

www.hokaoneone.co.nz<br />


Unlock your adventure horizon with Packraft New Zealand.<br />

Online supplier of Kokopelli packrafts, accessories and<br />

adventure inspiration. Shop online or contact us for expert<br />

advice for everything packrafting; hike-raft, bike-raft, hunt-raft,<br />

whitewater, fishing, canyoneering, urban and travel.<br />

www.packraftnewzealand.co.nz<br />

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />

brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />

www.merrell.co.nz<br />

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills<br />

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last<br />

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and<br />

tested in New Zealand since 1973.<br />

www.macpac.co.nz<br />

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment<br />

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place<br />

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor<br />

clothing and more.<br />

www.livingsimply.co.nz<br />

Offering the widest variety,<br />

best tasting, and most<br />

nutrient rich hydration,<br />

energy, and recovery<br />

products on the market.<br />

www.guenergy.co.nz<br />

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Jetboil builds super-dependable<br />

backpacking stoves and camping<br />

systems that pack light,<br />

set up quick, and achieve<br />

rapid boils in minutes.<br />

www.jetboilnz.co.nz<br />

Supplying tents and<br />

camping gear to Kiwis<br />

for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />

Camping are proud to<br />

be recognised as one of<br />

the most trusted outdoor<br />

brands in New Zealand.<br />

www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />

With stores in Clyde and<br />

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is<br />

your access point to the<br />

Central Otago Bike trials: T<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge<br />

and more...<br />

www.bikeitnow.co.nz<br />

Excellent quality Outdoor<br />

Gear at prices that can't<br />

be beaten. End of lines.<br />

Ex Demos. Samples. Last<br />

season. Bearpaw. Garneau.<br />

Ahnu. Superfeet.<br />


t r a v e l<br />

FIJI<br />


Fiji has for centuries been the<br />

quintessential South Pacific tourist<br />

destination for beaches and cocktails<br />

by the pool. Sure, Fiji has all that, but<br />

there is so much more; with such a<br />

unique position in the South Pacific<br />

and an array of beaches, crystal<br />

shallow water, vast oceans, rivers and<br />

mountains. Fiji has everything to offer<br />

those looking for an island adventure.<br />


Exploring an isolated cave, Fiji

Clockwise from top left: Surfing Cloudbreak, one of the many spots to surf in Fiji / Mount Tomaniivi Summit (aka Mt. Victoria) - Fiji's highest<br />

mountain - on the Cross-Island hike with Talanoa Treks. / Sigatoka Sand Dunes Sunset<br />

Fishing<br />

With Fiji having some of the most<br />

incredible marine life globally, Fishing<br />

is slowly becoming a popular sport in<br />

the island nation. With such a dense<br />

underwater eco-system, the oceans<br />

of Fiji offer everything from Tuna and<br />

Marlin to Wahoo, Walu and Mahi Mahi,<br />

there’s plenty to catch that will challenge<br />

even the most seasoned fisherman.<br />

Although Fiji’s tropical waters house<br />

fish throughout the year, some types<br />

are more plentiful at certain times than<br />

others. If you’re looking to catch Mahi<br />

Mahi, you can do so year-round, but<br />

you’ll find them in abundance from<br />

December through to February and<br />

again July through to August. Giant<br />

Trevally flock Fiji’s waters around<br />

February through to April, Wahoo from<br />

July through to August, Blue Marlin<br />

February through to March and Yellowfin<br />

Tuna making a popular appearance from<br />

March to April<br />

On Namotu, Big Game Fishing is<br />

something not to miss. While people<br />

generally come for the surf, they can’t<br />

help but take some time out to try their<br />

hand at fishing and have a freshly<br />

caught fish for dinner when they return.<br />

Half Cast Charters, operated through<br />

Volivoli Beach Resort offers some of<br />

Fiji’s best Big Game Fishing on The<br />

Bligh waters. The waters between the<br />

islands of Viti Levu where the resort<br />

is located, and Vanua Levu combined<br />

with depth and reef structure allows for<br />

amazing sports and game fishing. It’s<br />

hard to resist the chance to relax on the<br />

open waters with a cold one as you wait<br />

for a bite.<br />

Dive into happiness<br />

Dive into some of the world’s most<br />

beautiful and colourful network of 10359<br />

square kilometres of coral reef, including<br />

the world-famous Great Astrolabe Reef.<br />

With more than 1000 species of fish<br />

and several hundred sorts of coral and<br />

sponges, Fiji offers an abundance of<br />

unique diving snorkelling experiences.<br />

You can even get up close and personal<br />

with some of the oceans friendly giants<br />

if you go at the right time of year – you<br />

can swim with Manta Rays or Hawksbill<br />

Turtles.<br />

Located between the second and third<br />

largest islands of Fiji, Vanua Levi and<br />

Taveuni, Rainbow Reef offers a display<br />

of vibrant colours under the water,<br />

provided by the hard and soft corals and<br />

marine life that call the area home.<br />

There are around 230 hard and soft<br />

corals creating a feast for the eyes. With<br />

the fantastical beauty, it’s no wonder that<br />

this is one of the top diving destinations<br />

in the world. Plunging your face beneath<br />

the surface of these warm waters, you’re<br />

bound to forget the world above sea<br />

level for a few breathless moments.<br />

Discover Fiji by foot (or dune buggie)<br />

Fiji isn’t just white sand beaches,<br />

although there are plenty of those<br />


Clockwise from top left: Beautiful beaches await / Aerial of the Wainibau waterfall at the end of the Lavena Coastal Walk. Bouma National<br />

Heritage Park, Taveuni / Underwater image of lady freediving and spearfishing near Savasi<br />

too! From stunning waterfalls, lush<br />

tropical rain forests, rugged coastline<br />

and dramatic mountain tops, there’s<br />

so much to explore by foot. There is a<br />

reason why Taveuni is referred to as the<br />

‘Garden Island’ of Fiji—80% of the island<br />

is covered by tropical rainforests, along<br />

with natural rockslides and ancient lava<br />

flow. Then there’s the Sigatoka Sand<br />

Dunes, whose rolling sand dunes are<br />

something straight out of Arabian nights!<br />

Challenge yourself and climb the<br />

highest mountain in Fiji, Mt Tomaniivi<br />

(Mt Victoria). The best way to tackle<br />

the mountain is with Talanoa Treks on<br />

their overnight excursion. Walk through<br />

some magnificent cloud forest to reach<br />

the summit at 1,323m. On a clear day,<br />

you will have some amazing views<br />

across Viti Levu. Be rewarded at the end<br />

with afternoon tea and a dip in the river<br />

before heading back to the coast.<br />

Get yourself on Fiji’s only self-drive<br />

dune buggies on a guided tour with<br />

Terratrek. Discover Fiji’s most beautiful<br />

waterfalls and rainforests or head up into<br />

the mountains for panoramic views with<br />

outlooks on the Pacific Ocean.<br />

Explore the secret spots of Fiji<br />

Ditch the pool side lounge chair and sign<br />

up for an adventure you’ll never forget!<br />

Whether it’s kayaking or rafting on the<br />

Navua River, jet boating up the Sigatoka<br />

River or zip-lining through tropical<br />

rainforests, there are adventures for<br />

everyone of any age.<br />

Described as an ‘underwater cathedral’,<br />

the Sawa-I-Lau Caves in the northern<br />

Yasawa Islands are a must-do when<br />

visiting Fiji. Sculpted by centuries of<br />

wave erosion eating away at limestone,<br />

you’ll be absolutely blown away by the<br />

spectacular natural architecture right in<br />

front of you. Sunlight streams down into<br />

the Pantheon-esque cave – the roof of<br />

the cave soars over 15 metres above<br />

the water. Guides from the local village<br />

are available to take you through an<br />

underwater passage to reach a secret<br />

adjoining chamber – all you’ll need is the<br />

right gear, and a reasonable helping of<br />

courage.<br />

Hang loose on the waves<br />

Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, there<br />

are plenty of waves to catch in Fiji. For<br />

those after leisurely longboard breaks,<br />

head to Natadola Beach on the Coral<br />

Coast. But for those wanting to put their<br />

skills to the test, have a go at what the<br />

locals call ‘Thunder Reef’, Kelly Slater’s<br />

favourite, Cloudbreak the Mamanuca<br />

Islands. If you want to watch the drama<br />

from afar, there are many boats that take<br />

you out to watch the action on the waves<br />

with a cold one in hand. For those<br />

wanting an all-inclusive surf holiday, stay<br />

at Namotu Island Surf Resort , which is<br />

located near many famous breaks and<br />

offer yoga and massages to help you<br />

recover after a big day on the waves.<br />

To find out more visit www.fiji.travel<br />


t r a v e l<br />

NIUE<br />


The South Pacific island of Niue is one of<br />

the smallest countries in the world, on one<br />

of the largest raised coral atolls on earth<br />

and it prides itself on being ‘special’.<br />

Niue and its people have won numerous<br />

awards for environmental programmes and<br />

sustainability, and it’s uniquely not just for<br />

the tourists. The whole community is on<br />

board and involved with looking after and<br />

maintaining Niue’s unique aspects both<br />

above and below the water.<br />

The absence of surface running water such<br />

as streams and creeks contributes to the<br />

island’s pristine crystal-clear surrounding<br />

ocean, the clarity of which is unforgettable.<br />

With no lagoon or fringing reef, the steep<br />

drop-off is just meters from the land, pelagic<br />

migratory fish such as yellow-fin tuna and<br />

wahoo, which are normally deep-sea fish<br />

are caught no more than two hundred<br />

metres from shore and are in abundance.<br />

I personally have fished all over the South<br />

Pacific and there is nowhere like Niue!<br />

When Captain Cook first visited Niue<br />

he tried to land three times but gave up<br />

because he thought that the natives who<br />

came to greet them were painted in blood.<br />

(The locals in fact had eaten a native red<br />

banana, called the hula-hula.)<br />

Niue island is pristinely clean and those that<br />

do live there take great pride in their island,<br />

and unlike what Captain Cook thought they<br />

could not be more welcoming to visitors.<br />

For such a small atoll there is plenty to do:<br />

When you go to Niue you can swim with<br />

spinner dolphins and see whales close up in<br />

season. It must be the only island that has<br />

an honesty bar. You can visit the smallest<br />

yacht club in the world, catch an Uga<br />

[coconut crab], or snorkel in warm, safe rock<br />

pools teeming with colourful fish.<br />

E<br />


What is unique about Niue as an island<br />

is its isolation and its coral origins that<br />

create a unique coastline. The whole<br />

island is dotted with a myriad of caves,<br />

sheltered rocky coves, chasms and secret<br />

beaches. The Huval Rainforest is home<br />

to stunning indigenous trees and these<br />

have been designated as a Conservation<br />

Area to protect and conserve the island’s<br />

primary rainforest.<br />

One of the most famous chasms, is<br />

the Matapa Chasm, in the village of<br />

Hikutavake. An amazing and safe place<br />

to swim and snorkel, encased by steep<br />

cliffs overhanging a deep long cool pool<br />

and as always full of fish. It is next to the<br />

open ocean but isolated from its currents<br />

by large boulders on the seaward side<br />

creating a natural swimming pool.<br />

Another well-photographed feature of<br />

the island is Talava Arches. A massive<br />

rock archway noted by Captain Cook<br />

in the late 1700’s, it is surrounded by a<br />

network of complex caves. As with most<br />

of Niue, there is good tourist access, but<br />

it is natural, you need to wear good shoes<br />

and stick to the created paths.<br />

Apart from simply exploring Niue, you can<br />

also go kayaking, biking, fishing, diving<br />

(Niue Blue dive company offers PADI<br />

certified dives). Niue is distinct from all<br />

the other South Pacific islands because<br />

there are no beaches as such. But there<br />

are kilometres of coastline to explore.<br />

There is locally available a map that not<br />

only tells you how to get to a range of<br />

amazing caves and chasms but also tells<br />

you what tides are best for exploring each<br />

of them (by my own experience it pays to<br />

do your homework).<br />

Niue is walking the talk on environmental<br />

protection with the creation of the ‘Niue<br />

Nukutuluea Multi-Use Marine Park’. The<br />

Niue Oceanwide project (NOW) has been<br />

a significant part of Niue’s sustainable<br />

development over the last decade. Based<br />

on scientific assessment and thousands<br />

of years of traditional knowledge, Niue<br />

has established 40% of its region as a<br />

‘no-take’ Large Scale Marine Protected<br />

Area (Niue Mona Mahu) which is<br />

significant for a Pacific Island that relies<br />

on fish. More details here about Niue<br />

Marine Park can be found here:<br />

www.niueoceanwide.com<br />

Something new, (but has always been<br />

there) is star gazing, and once again<br />

there is nowhere like Niue. Niue was the<br />

world’s first whole country to become<br />

a ‘Dark Sky Place’, receiving formal<br />

accreditation from the International Dark-<br />

Sky Association (IDA) as an ‘International<br />

Dark Sky Sanctuary’ and ‘International<br />

Dark Sky Community’, covering the whole<br />

of Niue with Dark Sky protection and<br />

deeming it a ‘dark sky nation’.<br />

Niuean’s have a long history of star<br />

navigation and visitors to Niue can view<br />

the spectacle of an unspoilt night sky.<br />

Guided Astro-tours are led by trained<br />

Niuean community members. Niue’s<br />

viewing sites currently used for whalewatching,<br />

are also ideal spots for Dark<br />

Sky viewing. More details here:<br />

www.niueisland.com/darkskynation<br />

The list of what Niue has on offer to<br />

experience and to do is long!<br />



Niue's border with NZ reopens, and<br />

weekly flights from Auckland commence<br />

from Tuesday 28 June 2022.<br />

JUST 3 ½ HOURS AWAY: Although<br />

Niue is a world apart, the island is just<br />

a 3 ½ hour flight on Air New Zealand<br />

departing each Tuesday morning (but<br />

check online as the day of week could<br />

change).<br />

AVOID THE CROWDS: With a land<br />

area of 260sq. kms there is space for<br />

you here. When out exploring you often<br />

feel like you are the first one to discover<br />

the many secluded coves, caves and<br />

pools.<br />

Niue even uses NZ dollars – and<br />

English is spoken universally.<br />

To find out more visit:<br />

www.niueisland.com<br />


Real explorers,<br />

Real Niue.<br />

Niue’s borders reopen 28 June 2022.<br />

Your average traveller won’t be able to tell you where Niue is on a map – which is<br />

why you won’t find the average traveller in Niue. What you will find is the world’s<br />

largest raised coral atoll; unspoilt, majestic and waiting for you to explore.<br />

Start exploring Niue today, www.niueisland.com

t r a v e l<br />



Images by Steve Dickinson<br />

As with most iconic surf destinations, it is only the<br />

perfect days or the outrageous days that find their<br />

way into the media.<br />

French Polynesia is an amazing surf destination<br />

for everyone, even on the not so perfect days.<br />

It is about halfway between South America<br />

and Australia, this wave rich part of French<br />

Polynesia’s most notorious islands chain it known<br />

for its crystal-clear water, crisp clean barrels<br />

and the notorious wave of death, Teahupoo<br />

(actually surprisingly only one person has died<br />

here and that was in 2000). Personally, I have<br />

seen Teahupoo at is worst (best) during Code<br />

Red in 2011, when the waves were so huge and<br />

ferocious that the ocean was closed by the local<br />

council to all water activities (known as Code<br />

Red). However, this was ignored by the big wave<br />

surfers of the region, and I was lucky enough to<br />

be there. In a lifetime of photographing surfing,<br />

I have never seen anything even come close to<br />

the magnitude and power of the waves on that<br />

day. But that was a once in a lifetime event, most<br />

days surfing in Tahiti can simply described as<br />

‘mellow fun’.

Previous Page: Teahupoo at its best<br />

Above: A boat is the best way to reach the breaks in Tahiti<br />

Top Right: They start them young in this neck of the woods<br />

Bottom Right: Tikanui Smith at Ta'apuna<br />

Unlike a lot of surf destinations around<br />

the world French Polynesia's locals are<br />

welcoming and friendly. They love the<br />

fact that you have come to share in their<br />

wave abundance and if treated with the<br />

respect you will make local friends in no<br />

time!<br />

French Polynesia is not one island but<br />

actually 118 islands spread across five<br />

archipelagos. Every island has some<br />

sort of wave at some time of the year.<br />

Access to most of the reef passes<br />

require a boat, however, there are<br />

numerous water taxis that will take you<br />

and even homestays (pensions) where<br />

trips out to the local breaks and a surf<br />

guide are all part of the package.<br />

There are a few breaks around the main<br />

city and as you would expect these do<br />

get more crowded, one great break is<br />

Taa’puna; seeing it close enough to<br />

paddle out too and fairly consistent not<br />

to mention only the five minutes from<br />

Papeete, it gets busy.<br />

Further up the coast there is the black<br />

sand beach break of Papara, which is<br />

good for kids and families.<br />

Continue on that same road (there<br />

is only one) and you will arrive at<br />

Teahupoo, which is a very long paddle<br />

but do-able and can get crazy but<br />

normally only when it gets really big.<br />

If it is big and you really just want to<br />

just look, you can pick up a water taxi<br />

from the Teahupoo marina for an hour<br />

viewing.<br />

Unlike beach breaks, which most of us<br />

are used to riding, most of the waves in<br />

French Polynesia are reef based, which<br />

often means they are shallow and if you<br />

fall you don’t bounce off the sand but<br />

get scratched up by the coral. It worth<br />

spending some time watching the locals<br />

to see how to avoid this.<br />

Another issue not often discussed is<br />

water flow. A lot of the reef-based waves<br />

are in a pass. Where water travels from<br />

in the lagoon out to open water and it<br />

can be a lot more like a river than a rip,<br />

once again keep an eye on the locals to<br />

know where to go and where to sit.<br />

Best Surf Seasons in French<br />

Polynesia<br />

March - June: From March to June,<br />

the southern hemisphere comes alive,<br />

putting up consistent south swells that<br />

create some great surf options.<br />

During winter: Once again there is<br />

consistent swell throughout the whole of<br />

winter right up until October.<br />

Spring: As summer arrives things<br />

start to quieten down a little especially<br />

towards the end of October this is also<br />

the rainy season but it’s still warm and if<br />

you want to hunt around there is always<br />

swell somewhere.<br />

Summer: November to March is<br />

basically their summer and surf is<br />

smaller and less consistent.<br />

The bottom line for surf travel is don’t<br />

always make it about the waves. If<br />

you just focus on just the surf, you will<br />

fail to see what an amazing place any<br />

surf destination can be. The trick is to<br />

love where you are and then add great<br />

surf as the cherry on the cake. French<br />

Polynesia has a huge amount to offer<br />

and great waves for everyone are just a<br />

part of the full experience.<br />

To see what is available visit www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/<br />



Cook Islands.<br />

Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022<br />

Float above the world’s bluest blue<br />


t r a v e l<br />



Life is about Moments! There are<br />

moments that makes use laugh, cry or<br />

change our perspective and open our<br />

eyes and hearts.<br />

The moments we remember are those if<br />

consequence and significance – the ones<br />

we file away in the scrapbooks of our<br />

lives. That’s especially true when it comes<br />

to holidays and probably even more so<br />

now.<br />

A visit to Vanuatu holds the promise<br />

of incredible moments to be made,<br />

remembered and shared. It is these<br />

moments that define our experience and<br />

call us back for another stay.<br />

Vanuatu is not a about a simple list of<br />

things to see and do, but more about<br />

how it makes you feel. Its about moments<br />

that connect us to people, places, and<br />

emotions. When you Answer the Call<br />

of Vanuatu, you’ll be swept away in any<br />

number of incredible moments that will<br />

make you feel good.<br />

After all a holiday isn’t meant to be<br />

taken to seriously: its about letting go<br />

and getting ready to leap into your next<br />

adventure.<br />

We know people are still keen to get out<br />

and experience the world in full colour.<br />

Making connections, experiencing<br />

different, treading lightly, but mostly<br />

jumping into another place entirely both<br />

physically and mentally. It is also clear<br />

that smaller is better when it comes to<br />

fellow travellers.<br />

To be honest this is pretty much the<br />

holiday experience in Vanuatu pre all the<br />

challenges of the past few years, so I<br />

guess we are good are it.<br />

Vanuatu is slowing starting the re-opening<br />

process and over 2022 will gradually<br />

reduce the restrictions and requirements<br />

of entry. This will be a gradual process<br />

linked to vaccination targets.<br />

So, what is it about Vanuatu that will<br />

make it a strong contender for your<br />

holiday shopping list as travel gets freer?<br />


Above: Matava River, Santo - Image by Joel Johnsson

1. Get Back to Your Passions: Whether it<br />

be walking, diving, canyoning, or exploring<br />

volcanos now will be the time to get back<br />

to your passions. I am sure you have a<br />

full bucket list of sites to dive or walks to<br />

traverse can we suggest you make sure<br />

that Vanuatu on your list.<br />

There will be some you know about such<br />

as the President Coolidge wreck dive in<br />

Espiritu Santo, but we offer much more<br />

than that without having your fellow diver<br />

right next to you. The coral reefs and<br />

fish life off Tanna are yet to really be<br />

discovered and Hideaway and Tranquillity<br />

Islands are eagerly waiting to do what they<br />

do best.<br />

The remote Island of Gaua offers a 4-day<br />

hike with local guides to the highest<br />

waterfall in Vanuatu, Siri Falls, after<br />

canoeing across Lake Letus. Oh, and did<br />

we mention that you also stride up Mount<br />

Garet the highest peak on the island and<br />

an active volcano.<br />

2. Off the Grid: Do you feel the need to<br />

lose yourself in an environment where few<br />

people venture? Or to hangout in a no fuss<br />

bungalow on the beach or by the side of<br />

a volcano enjoy the hospitality of a local<br />

family who have looked after the land for<br />

forever?<br />

There is no shortage of off the grid<br />

locations and experiences across Vanuatu.<br />

These special locations offer some of the<br />

most relaxing and freeing experiences<br />

as you simply can’t bring your everyday<br />

habits with you.<br />

Imagine: -<br />

• Spending 4 days at Lonnoc Eco Beach<br />

Above: Gaua - Mbe Solomul River<br />

Insert: Tanna Kastom celebrations<br />

Bungalows set in tropical gardens amidst<br />

blue holes, Champagne Beach, and<br />

Lonnoc Beach right in front of you for<br />

swimming and snorkelling.<br />

• Pele Island and its neighbour Nguna<br />

are in MPA Nguna-Pele Marine Protected<br />

Area. The island are a short boat trip<br />

from mainland Efate which transport you<br />

into the truly beautiful location. There<br />

are plenty of island bungalows to choose<br />

from and your daily activities can be<br />

hiking, hammocking, banana boat safaris,<br />

snorkelling or fishing.<br />

• Perched up in a treehouse amongst<br />

the canopy of a banyan tree surround by<br />

birdsong and looking out to the rumblings<br />

of Mount Yasur, one of the worlds most<br />

accessible volcanos, on Tanna Island is<br />

about as off the grid as you can get. Set in<br />

the middle of a local village experiencing<br />

real island life is part of the journey.<br />

Jungle Oasis Bungalows, Banyan Castle<br />

Bungalows or Tanna Yasur Homestay<br />

Bungalows love sharing their connection to<br />

the land and life living next to a volcano.<br />

3. Connection and Kastom: Kastom<br />

is what holds community, family, and<br />

connection together in Vanuatu. It is<br />

unwritten and unspoken but demonstrated<br />

everyday in how things get done. Kastom<br />

respects the land, the people, and the<br />

community.<br />

How can you experience Kastom as a<br />

visitor? Spend some time in the markets,<br />

attend an event such as the Naghol (land<br />

diving) in Pentecost, talk to the Mama’s<br />

with their skilfully made handicrafts or<br />

watch the kids play fearlessly in the water,<br />

lagoons, and Blue Holes. It is part of life in<br />

Vanuatu so really you don’t need to look it<br />

will be part of what makes you let of your<br />

comfort zone but still feel safe.<br />

4. <strong>Adventure</strong>: <strong>Adventure</strong>, the dictionary<br />

definition is and exciting or remarkable<br />

experience. For some it will be the local<br />

market and the new foods, sounds and<br />

laughter or other pushing themselves<br />

on the hike into the Millennium Cave, or<br />

choosing the option to channel your inner<br />

explorer and walk for 3 days to the volcano<br />

rather than 4WD. <strong>Adventure</strong> has never<br />

been so much fun as it is Vanuatu.<br />

5. Road Not Travelled: If being the only<br />

visitor at a particular time is your idea of<br />

how a trip of discovery should be, staying<br />

with a family in their bungalow, after<br />

catching a light aircraft over the islands,<br />

Vanuatu could keep you travelling for<br />

quite some time. Below are a couple of<br />

suggestions but there really is no shortage<br />

of opportunities.<br />

•Epi Island<br />

•Maskalyne Islands<br />

•Rah and the Rock of Rah<br />

•Moon Cave and Maewo<br />

•Hiking up the little explored volcanos of<br />

Ambrym<br />

For more information check-out www.vanuatu.travel

1.30pm Siri Falls, Gaua<br />

Hiking Diving Culture<br />

Volcanos<br />

Go explore at vanuatu.travel

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