06.06.2022 Views

Adventure 232

Winter issue of Adventure magazine

Winter issue of Adventure magazine

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

adventure<br />

where actions speak louder than words<br />

ISSUE <strong>232</strong><br />

JUN/JUL 2022<br />

NZ $10.90 incl. GST<br />

winter<br />

issue


Available Available from from leading leading retailers: retailers:<br />

Auckland: Auckland: Snowcentre<br />

Taupo: Taupo: Gordons Gordons<br />

Wellington: Gordons Gordons<br />

Canterbury: Gnomes Gnomes<br />

Wanaka: Wanaka: MT Outdoors MT Outdoors<br />

Queenstown: Small Small Planet Planet<br />

Dunedin: Dunedin: Beggs Beggs Ski Shop Ski Shop<br />

Distributed by Outfitters by Outfitters<br />

0800 0800 021 021 732 732<br />

www.black-crows.nz<br />

www.black-crows.nz


The media sucks!<br />

I clearly remember as a young teenager playing rugby league and<br />

I knew that we had two boys in the team that were over age and<br />

should not be playing. Every win was tainted. What was harder<br />

than knowing that you were not really winning fairly was knowing<br />

that your team, the guys you played for, were not someone you<br />

could be proud of and not a team I wanted to belong too.<br />

I feel the same way now about the media.<br />

The media has always been a bit like that. Historically whatever<br />

sold newspapers, was pushed to the front; not just current news<br />

but outrageous news, twisted headlines, the girl in a bikini on<br />

page three, that sort of approach. Then came along the women's<br />

weekly’s, showing images of movie stars on their day off to get<br />

beer-belly shots, or the no-makeup shots. Those tabloids that<br />

chased Princess Diana, hunting for a gossip shot, (that's a whole<br />

other editorial!).<br />

Move to the last few years, the news media has moved more<br />

and more online. As we all have struggled with covid, the media<br />

has not done its reputation any good. Whenever there is an<br />

opportunity to over sensationalise a covid issue they have<br />

leveraged people’s fear and worry to gain clicks – clicks, not to a<br />

news feature based on fact or even entertainment but feeding on<br />

fear and uncertainty just to get clicks.<br />

As we go to print Ruapehu has been making a few rumbling<br />

noises and the media has come out with 'Likelihood of eruption<br />

has certainly increased', ‘Mt Ruapehu tremors highest in nine<br />

years’ or ‘Mt Ruapehu has the strongest tremor in 20 years’<br />

all with underlying rhetoric of the White Island tradegy. One<br />

website, with a misleading heading, pushed doom and disaster<br />

for the winter ski season. Then used a video of a professional<br />

volcanologist discussing the recent activity. If you listen to the<br />

expert, he says there is nothing to worry about, it is a usual cycle<br />

for this time of year, be aware but carry on as normal.<br />

As <strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine we wrote to the mainstream media and<br />

asked them to stop ramping up a story that had no base in truth<br />

because of the impact it would have on the livelihood of those<br />

who need the mountain to be fully open this year.<br />

Ruapehu has now started to fall out of the media clickbait limelight<br />

(the clicks must have started to fall off) and covid seems to be<br />

less of an issue. So the media has now started to hypothesise<br />

that there will be a massive spike in Covid numbers this winter<br />

and on top of that, we are about to be flooded with the Monkey<br />

Pox. All this just to set off our Covid alarm bell and get us clicking<br />

again.<br />

Scaremongering to create clickbait, to create revenue, is<br />

embarrassing for any of us in the media. It has become its own<br />

nasty pandemic. A pandemic to which there is no vaccine, so I<br />

guess the only cure is awareness. Don’t follow the negative hype;<br />

focus on the fun, the good, the right and the true. Winter is coming<br />

and rather than face it with Covid and Monkey Pox concerns we<br />

should be planning for an amazing winter season. This issue of<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> will be low on the effects of Monkey Pox and high on<br />

how much fun winter can be.<br />

Let your concerns be about how often you can get to the<br />

mountain and not led by some clickbait incentive pulling at your<br />

fear strings.<br />

From the staff at <strong>Adventure</strong> enjoy winter<br />

Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />

your <strong>Adventure</strong> starts with Us<br />

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz


page 10<br />

Image by Alpine Guides Image by Eric Skilling<br />

Image by Zhi Yuen<br />

page 22<br />

page 46<br />

#<strong>232</strong><br />

10//A Winter's Dream<br />

Hiking Ruapehu<br />

20//Nim Purja<br />

Breaking records<br />

contents<br />

22//Nelson Lakes<br />

Lake Angelus, Sabine and Speargrass Huts<br />

28//Georgia<br />

A little known treasure<br />

34//Suffrage and Growth<br />

An accidental romance<br />

42//Winter Fishing<br />

They still have to eat<br />

48//Winter Mackenzie<br />

Standout moments<br />

55//Mindfulness<br />

The art of paying attention<br />

76//<strong>Adventure</strong> Travel<br />

Fiji | Niue | Tahiti | Rarotonga | Vanuatu<br />

plus<br />

62. gear guides<br />

94. active adventure<br />

FOLLOW US ON<br />

www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz<br />

adventuremagazine<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

Nzadventuremag<br />

JOIN THE CONVERSATION<br />

#ADVENTUREMAGAZINE<br />

World Class Indoor Climbing<br />

First visit $25* then free for a week!<br />

Fantastic community, beginners<br />

welcome, boulder classes for all ages<br />

and abilities, inquire now.<br />

* Discounts for youths and own gear<br />

Student Mondays, entry $15<br />

www.northernrocks.co.nz<br />

@northernrocks.climbing<br />

Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,<br />

Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363<br />

“Northern Rocks is an indoor bouldering facility, we<br />

foster community, growth and positive experiences for<br />

people of all backgrounds, ages and abilities.”


we ARE skiing<br />

Photo by Neil Kerr.<br />

Fraser McDougall & Sam Smoothy<br />

in the Richardson Mountains,<br />

New Zealand.<br />

For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to<br />

providing you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. Gear to keep you dry,<br />

warm and safe either in-bounds, sidecountry or backcountry this season. Ski, board and gear hire plus full<br />

workshop and servicing facilities available this season at our Tower Junction (Christchurch) store.<br />

Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage<br />

STORES NATIONWIDE<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz


BEHIND THE COVER<br />

Nirmal “Nims” Purja is seen on top of Mount Everest in Nepal on<br />

May 15, 2022. Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more<br />

incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer became<br />

the first person to summit three higher 8,000m peaks – Everest,<br />

Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse - in just under nine days and do the<br />

Everest to Lhotse traverse in 26 hours - both without oxygen. For<br />

the full story see page 20.<br />

Photographer by: Pemba Sherpa / Red Bull Content Pool<br />

SEXY AF<br />

A tasting team member dropped off a selection of Sexy AF alcohol<br />

free spirit products for a cocktail order. An intriguing product made<br />

from vegetable glycerin (perhaps another name for sugar), some<br />

have been awarded double gold at the World Spirit Competition.<br />

A striking label coupled with catchy names, the Friski whiski,<br />

AperTease, and Amar-oh combo really did taste like a cocktail with<br />

a reasonable mouthfeel for a non alcoholic drink. Promoting sober<br />

curious and mindful drinkers this product has certainly caught<br />

our attention. Mixed with some citrus, this easy going serve was<br />

smooth and delicious.<br />

For an equal parts serve<br />

1 jigger (22.5mls) AperTease @sexyafspirits<br />

1 jigger Friski Whiski<br />

1 jigger Amar-oh<br />

1 jigger freshly squeezed mandarin juice<br />

Juice of half a lime<br />

Shake with ice, double sieve, and garnish with mandarin<br />

segments.<br />

Follow @cocktailontherock | www.cocktailontherock.co.nz<br />

Find your AF products at www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz/<br />

EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />

Steve Dickinson<br />

Mob: 027 577 5014<br />

steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

Lynne Dickinson<br />

design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES<br />

subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz<br />

DISTRIBUTION<br />

Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000<br />

OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND<br />

ONLINE)<br />

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />

www.adventurejobs.co.nz<br />

www.skiandsnow.co.nz<br />

@adventurevanlifenz<br />

PUBLISHERS<br />

NZ <strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine is published six<br />

times a year by:<br />

Pacific Media Ltd,<br />

P.O.Box 562<br />

Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />

Ph: 0275775014<br />

Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />

adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />

NZadventurebike<br />

adventurejobs.co.nz<br />

adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />

Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must<br />

be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope.<br />

Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality<br />

prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility<br />

accepted for submitted material. All work published may be<br />

used on our website. Material in this publication may not be<br />

reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken<br />

all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort<br />

to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a<br />

condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does<br />

not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which<br />

may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or<br />

from the use of information contained herein and the publishers<br />

make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of<br />

the material contained herein.


BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA


80,000 followers can't be wrong<br />

JOIN THE CONVERSATION<br />

08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


@ adventuremagazine<br />

@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz


CENTRAL<br />

PLATEAU<br />

*<br />

A WINTER’S DREAM:<br />

COOL HIKES IN<br />

RUAPEHU<br />

Words by Adrift.co.nz Images by Zhi Yuen<br />

Just because its winter doesn’t mean<br />

you can’t go out and play. Hiking boots<br />

on and all rugged up in cosy woollen<br />

layers, there’s nothing like a winter’s<br />

day out exploring the great outdoors.<br />

With Tongariro National Park at your<br />

doorstep and the iconic triple peaks<br />

of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt<br />

Ngāuruhoe as your backdrop, head<br />

to Ruapehu to discover a network of<br />

world-class walking and hiking tracks<br />

made for intrepid explorers.<br />

10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


"With Tongariro National Park<br />

at your doorstep and the iconic<br />

triple peaks of Mt Ruapehu, Mt<br />

Tongariro and Mt Ngāuruhoe as<br />

your backdrop, head to Ruapehu to<br />

discover a network of world-class<br />

walking and hiking tracks made for<br />

intrepid explorers."<br />

Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />

When winter arrives, the otherworldly landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />

are transformed to something beyond your wildest dreams. Renowned as one of the<br />

best one day hikes in the world, taking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during winter<br />

is a unique wilderness adventure best experienced with a guide. The elements are<br />

in full force with ice, snow, and alpine conditions to reckon with, so it is essential to<br />

go a professional guide. Additional preparation, equipment, specialised navigation,<br />

and high-level backcountry skills are essential to enjoy this winter expedition safely.<br />

Even if you’ve already done the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during the summer months,<br />

it’s another level of adventure during winter so book with a local guide to be able to<br />

rediscover this iconic hike to the fullest.<br />

Waitonga Falls<br />

A favourite with locals, Waitonga Falls is Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfalls<br />

at 39 metres high. With access from Ohakune Mountain Road, this 4 km easy and<br />

well-formed return track offers incredible views of Mt Ruapehu with majestic panorama<br />

from the Rotokawa pools alpine wetland area. The perfect spot to pause, reflect and<br />

take in natural wonders of this UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of geological and<br />

cultural significance.<br />

Tawhai Falls<br />

Short, sweet and a must-do for Lord of the Rings fans, the beautiful cascades of<br />

Tawhai Falls is an easy, 20-minute short walk easily accessible from roadside along<br />

State Highway 48 nearby National Park Village. This family friendly walk delivers<br />

gorgeous views from the top of the falls along with an easy to follow track to the<br />

bottom of the falls.<br />

Mounds Walk<br />

Come sundown, the quick and easy Mounds Walk is a great way to watch the sun go<br />

down as golden hues sweep over this unique landscape. Just a few minutes’ drive<br />

from National Park Village off of State Highway 48, the formed mounds is a stark<br />

reminder of the unique natural environment and geological wonders of NZ’s oldest<br />

National Park.<br />

Taranaki Falls<br />

Situated in the heart of Tongariro National Park, the Taranaki Falls Track is a 6 km<br />

loop, well-formed track that’s regarded as one of best short walks in the area - even<br />

during the winter months. Traverse dramatic volcanic terrain to the stunning Taranaki<br />

Falls as its alpine waters cascade 20 metres down to picturesque pools. On a clear<br />

day take in the spectacular views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Tongariro as you journey<br />

through alpine shrublands, mountain beech forest and volcanic soils.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//13


14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Tama Lakes<br />

Popular year-round, the stunning Tama Lakes walk is a<br />

great alternative to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing that is<br />

phenomenal to experience during the winter season. This<br />

17.6 km track is an extension of the popular Taranaki<br />

Falls Track full of diverse terrain ranging from undulating<br />

tussock country, alpine lakes, and ancient lava flows.<br />

Regarded as an advanced tramping track, going guided<br />

is definitely the way to go for an unforgettable winter<br />

expedition to the Tama Lakes.<br />

Discover four seasons of incredible hikes and walks at<br />

www.visitruapehu.com


Terrace Restaurant & Bar Open daily<br />

5 minutes from Whakapapa Ski field<br />

Backpacker to Superior Family Accommodation<br />

On-Site Ski & Snowboard gear hire<br />

Skotel Alpine Resort | SkotelAlpineResort<br />

Ngauruhoe Place | Whakapapa Village, SH 48<br />

www.skotel.co.nz | info@skotel.co.nz<br />

+64 7 892 3719 | 0800 756 835<br />

COMFORTABLE<br />

ACCOMMATION<br />

ACCOMMODATION<br />

FROM DORM BEDS<br />

TO PRIVATE DOUBLE<br />

ENSUITE ROOMS<br />

CHALLENGING<br />

INDOOR<br />

CLIMBING WALL HALL<br />

OPEN DAILY 9AM-8PM<br />

OPEN DAILY 9AM - 8PM<br />

TONGARIRO<br />

VOLCANIC<br />

ADVENTURES<br />

BUS TO WHAKAPAPA<br />

SKI FIELD AND<br />

MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS<br />

MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS<br />

4 Findlay Street, National Park Park 3948<br />

nat.park.backpackers@xtra.co.nz<br />

07 892 2870 www.npbp.co.nz<br />

Dual Heritage<br />

Tongariro National Park<br />

Sky Waka Hot Deal<br />

2 Nights in a King Studio | Breakfast Daily | 2 x Sightseeing Pass Sky Waka<br />

2 x Mini Golf pass | $50 Food & Beverage Voucher<br />

BYO Bikes & explore our 4 biking trails from National Park Village<br />

Free wifi & parking | From NZD $599<br />

17 Carroll Street, National Park 3948<br />

info@plateaulodge.co.nz | +64 7 8922993<br />

www.plateaulodge.co.nz


RIDE IN<br />

RUAPEHU<br />

Ride to your own rhythm to take in the scale and serenity of Ruapehu’s Greater<br />

Outdoors.<br />

Magnificent mountain peaks, ancient rainforests, and forgotten worlds await,<br />

with spectacular suspension bridges and viaducts, historic relics and secret<br />

waterfalls to discover.<br />

Home to two Great Rides and options for all abilities, there’s plenty of<br />

two-wheeled adventure to be had in Ruapehu.<br />

VISITRUAPEHU.COM


RIDING RUAPEHU<br />

ADVENTURE THROUGH TIME AND SPECTACULAR SCENERY ON RUAPEHU’S GREAT RIDES<br />

From the UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of<br />

Tongariro National Park to the waterways and byways of<br />

Whanganui National Park, wind your way through alpine<br />

villages, mountain towns and historic relics to discover<br />

the best of Ruapehu by bike.<br />

Home to the Timber Trail and Mountains to Sea - Ngā<br />

AraTūhono, two of New Zealand’s Great Rides. Ruapehu<br />

offers over 400 km of epic trails of local gems and worldclass<br />

rides to discover.<br />

The Timber Trail<br />

Distance: 85km<br />

Grade: 2-3<br />

The Timber Trail follows the path of old logging roads,<br />

and the historic bush tramlines through Pureora Forest<br />

Park. A testament to forward thinking environmentalists<br />

who protested against native logging in 1978, this area<br />

is one of the last remaining intact podocarp forests in<br />

New Zealand. Highlights of the trail include spectacular<br />

suspension bridges, giant ancient trees and fascinating<br />

relics from the area’s timber milling history. There’s also<br />

the Ongarue Spiral, an engineering marvel and great<br />

fun to ride over and then down through a tunnel under<br />

the track. The trail is normally ridden over two days with<br />

memorable accommodation available at Piropiro, the<br />

midway point. There are two lodges, a campsite, and<br />

fully serviced glamping here, nestled into a remote bush<br />

setting. Tour operators offer packages with shuttles and<br />

accommodation to make the planning easy.<br />

Ohakune Old Coach Road<br />

Distance: 15km<br />

Grade: 3<br />

The Ohakune Old Coach Road follows the route of the<br />

old dray road between Ohakune and Horopito. This day<br />

ride is full of surprises and incredibly beautiful, taking in<br />

some magnificent railway heritage including two striking<br />

viaducts and a spooky old tunnel. It offers some fantastic<br />

views over the volcanic plateau of Tongariro National<br />

Park, and some spectacular sections regenerating native<br />

18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Main image: Spectacular scenery on the Timber Trail<br />

Above top to bottom: Mountain Biking The Marton Sash and Door Trail / Ohakune Old Coach Road<br />

bush. You can ride the trail in both directions as an out<br />

and back, or take a shuttle to ride the trail in a mostly<br />

downhill direction from Horopito back to Ohakune, where<br />

you’ll find plenty of options to enjoy some mountain village<br />

hospitality after your ride.<br />

Mangapurua Track (Bridge to Nowhere)<br />

Distance: 36km<br />

Grade: 3*<br />

The Mangapurua Track is a classic back country ride, with<br />

a spectacular finale. The trail starts deep in Ruatiti Valley<br />

with a steady climb over a saddle and into the remote<br />

Mangapurua Valley, a long-abandoned farming settlement<br />

surrounded by bush-clad hills and dramatic bluffs.<br />

The ride and the riveting story that goes along with it end<br />

at the Bridge to Nowhere, a graceful concrete monument<br />

to the settlers’ broken dreams.<br />

Then on down to the Whanganui River. When the ride<br />

is over, your next adventure begins! Load your bikes<br />

onto the back of a jet boat for an invigorating ride out to<br />

Pipiriki. You’ll need to book your transport in advance, and<br />

local tour operators offer packages with shuttles and jet<br />

boat ride.*In or after significant rain, may ride as a grade<br />

4. Check track status on the Official Mountains To Sea<br />

website before riding.<br />

Mountains to Sea - Ngā Ara Tūhono<br />

Ohakune Old Coach Road and the Mangapurua are part<br />

of the Mountains to Sea Ngā Ara Tūhono Great Ride. If<br />

you’re looking for a varied multi-day ride from the top of<br />

Turoa ski field right to the Tasman Sea at Whanganui,<br />

there are a couple of options to choose from, the Classic<br />

Experience, or the <strong>Adventure</strong> Route, or sections of the<br />

track make great day rides. Have a look at Fishers Track,<br />

Kaiwhakauka and Marton Sah and Door.<br />

For more info to plan your trip visit:<br />

www.visitruapehu.com. You can also download<br />

ride maps from the official websites, Timber Trail and<br />

Mountains to Sea.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//19


NIM PURJA:<br />

BREAKING RECORDS<br />

NIMS SUMMITS EVEREST, LHOTSE AND KANCHENJUNGA IN JUST UNDER NINE DAYS.<br />

Images and text by Red Bull<br />

Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more<br />

incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer<br />

became the first person to summit three peaks higher<br />

than 8,000m – Everest, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse -<br />

in just under nine days and do the Everest to Lhotse<br />

traverse in 26 hours - both without supplementary<br />

oxygen.<br />

The Nepal-born naturalised British climber is well<br />

known for summitting all 14 of the world's 8,000m<br />

peaks in seven months and he also made history on<br />

January 16, 2021, when the former Gurkha and British<br />

Special Forces operative and his team became the first<br />

mountaineers to summit K2 in winter.<br />

After receiving worldwide acclaim for those feats, Purja<br />

embarked on a new adventure in early May with his<br />

Elite Exped team as they tackled the Himalayan peaks<br />

of Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga.<br />

Purja and his team went from Base Camp to Camp<br />

2 on May 5, and then on May 6 started the push -<br />

with a few hours break at Camp 3 - to the 8,586m<br />

Kanchenjunga peak which they summited at 10.50am<br />

on May 7.<br />

They switched over to the Everest Base Camp on May<br />

10 and departed at 3am on May 11 for Camp 2 where<br />

they acclimatised for two days before heading up to<br />

Camp 3 on May 13 ahead of the final push.<br />

They left the South Col at 11pm on May 14 and, in a<br />

very quick time of just nine hours, they summitted the<br />

world's most famous peak of 8,849m at 8am on May<br />

15 to complete the second leg of the feat.<br />

Lhotse was the final peak and on May 16, the team left<br />

the South Col around 3.30am and reached the 8,516m<br />

summit around 10am with Purja the first to summit<br />

three peaks higher than 8,000m – Everest, Lhotse and<br />

Kanchenjunga - without oxygen in an incredible time of<br />

just eight days, 23 hours and 10 minutes - a new world<br />

record.<br />

The 38-year-old, who took full advantage of this<br />

season's good Everest summit window, revealed: "As I<br />

was focused on guiding and helping our team achieve<br />

their new possible, it was all in a chilled manner. My<br />

mission has always been to inspire people and to<br />

show what human beings are capable of, that's what<br />

gives me the energy and excitement – showing people<br />

that nothing is impossible. I'm trailblazing and I want<br />

to inspire everyone to know they can achieve their<br />

dreams too."<br />

He also did the Everest to Lhotse traverse without<br />

supplementary oxygen in 26 hours to claim another<br />

world record despite getting Khumbu cough before<br />

Kanchenjunga due to low humidity and high-altitude<br />

temperatures.<br />

He added: "I was leading and guiding without oxygen<br />

– I was checking in and making sure everyone was<br />

ok, fed and rested and strong. And for me when I do a<br />

summit push it is from Base Camp to the summit and<br />

then from the summit back to Base Camp. It has to be<br />

authentic – no helicopter lifts back to Base Camp –<br />

unless the summit is void or there's an emergency or<br />

rescue."<br />

20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21


NELSON<br />

LAKES<br />

*<br />

FOUR DAYS IN<br />

NELSON LAKES<br />

LAKE ANGELUS, SABINE AND SPEARGRASS HUTS<br />

By Eric Skilling<br />

“Lake Angelus is my favourite place in the world” he<br />

said as we discussed the trip ahead. Okay, he was born<br />

in the area so maybe I could excuse a bit of bias, but<br />

that was a bold claim from someone who has visited<br />

some amazing places all over the globe. Judging by the<br />

number of photos I brought back, maybe he was right.<br />

My biggest encouragement was when he also said he<br />

wasn’t feeling that fit. Time to kick some butt, or so I<br />

thought. Alas, a lot can happen in four days, and nature<br />

would find a way of bringing me humbly back to earth by<br />

doing what nature does.<br />

DAY 1: Lake Angelus. 12km in 6 hours. As so often<br />

happens in NZ, you step out of the car park and head<br />

straight up a hill. In this case a 650metre climb for the<br />

first hour-and-a-half. The upside is there are plenty of<br />

switchbacks, views of Lake Rotoiti, and the forest is full<br />

of the welcoming calls of bellbirds. It wasn’t long before<br />

I was back in the groove and feeling grateful to be out<br />

tramping in such epic country.<br />

The landscape changed abruptly as we left the bush line<br />

and started the poled route along Roberts Ridge. The<br />

track wound its way ahead through alpine scrub before<br />

disappearing into swirling mist. This was late February,<br />

and we were still warm after the climb, so we by-passed<br />

the shelter and kept going until we came across Martin.<br />

22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


On top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus valley.<br />

Martin is probably not his real name, but the<br />

name seems to suit him. Martin is the name<br />

we gave to the larger-than-life-sized wooden<br />

model that looms out of the mist with hand<br />

raised. He warned us that the track ahead<br />

was “difficult, rocky and exposed” and “it<br />

was still a long way to the hut!”. He urged<br />

us to TURN BACK! If we were tired or cold.<br />

Dramatic stuff. I gave Martin a cuddle and we<br />

continued onward.<br />

We met a couple returning from Lake Angelus<br />

who told us the sky would clear once we<br />

reached Flagtop at 1650m, and we would get<br />

great views of Julius Summit (1794m). Well,<br />

it didn’t, and we didn’t. But a few hours later<br />

we did emerge out of the cloud and got to<br />

see the full jagged ridge of the Julius Peak,<br />

its multicoloured slopes falling steeply into<br />

the Speargrass River valley. To the northwest<br />

we could just make out what could have been<br />

the Hope Range and Mt Owen.<br />

A few hours later and we were standing on<br />

top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus<br />

valley. This is one of those moments that<br />

is hard to describe. The scene is unique.<br />

Several hundred metres below the two lakes<br />

stand out starkly, their colours ranging from<br />

a deep blue to almost black, edged with<br />

Saying G'day to Martin<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23


Sunrise at Lake Angeles, photographs don’t capture the feeling of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the alpine vegetation,<br />

and the sound of the Hukere stream making its way from the lake.<br />

turquoise and greens. Above them the valley<br />

is ringed by a serrated line of weathered peaks,<br />

with multiple scree slopes reaching down to the<br />

encroaching alpine tussock that surrounds the<br />

lakes.<br />

Angelus hut itself, stands nicely placed on the edge<br />

of the lake looking very fragile and out of place in<br />

this wild landscape.<br />

Once at the hut there was plenty of time for a swim,<br />

a cup of hot sweet coffee and to share stories and<br />

banter with others in the hut. Lake Angelus seems<br />

to be a mecca for couples. Andrea and Patrick from<br />

Nelson, Beth and Mulock from Dunedin, Gabriela<br />

and Leandro from South America. I had to settle for<br />

my mate Don.<br />

Next day I was up in time to catch the sunrise, but<br />

photographs don’t allow you to share the feeling<br />

of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the<br />

alpine vegetation, and the sound of the Hukere<br />

stream making its way from the lake. When the<br />

sun eventually reached over the peaks to the east,<br />

light spread over the glacial valley, still filled with a<br />

lumpy blanket of swirling cloud. Special. Then the<br />

breeze dropped and the surface of Lake Angelus<br />

became a mirror, creating almost perfect reflections<br />

of the scree slopes and skyline above it.<br />

Day 2: Sabine hut, Lake Rotoroa. 6.8km in 6<br />

hours. Note the warning – expect an average<br />

pace of 1.1km an hour. DOC describes the track as<br />

“steep” in that charming, understated kiwi way.<br />

A perfect day for tramping. We scrambled and<br />

boulder hopped along the ridgeline, with expansive<br />

views from Mt Angelus, the Muntz and Braeburn<br />

ranges, and up Sabine River valley to Mt Franklin<br />

(2340 metres). Our lunch stop was just above<br />

the bushline, overlooking the full length of Lake<br />

Rotoroa and the promise of a refreshing swim.<br />

It was a welcome relief to walk into the cool cover<br />

of the beech trees after spending most of the tramp<br />

walking on rock and gravel with plenty of boulder<br />

hopping. Don’t get me wrong, the panoramas from<br />

the exposed tops are awe-inspiring, but it was bliss<br />

to step onto the bush track, cushioned by layers of<br />

fine beech tree leaves. Piwakaka skipped around<br />

us, and bellbirds greeted us with their inimitable<br />

song. Three hours to go.<br />

An hour later the path had become quite steep. A<br />

couple of wasps had miraculously snuck into my<br />

boots, settled on each of my big toes, and would<br />

occasionally give me a sting if I made any decent<br />

sized downward step.<br />

Then we reached “The Sign”. These large signs<br />

with their contour profiles and “You are Here”<br />

points are rare but usually very welcome. They<br />

impart guidance, direction, hope and anticipation.<br />

Sometimes they lie. This specific one was<br />

colourfully decorated with a profile telling us that we<br />

had an hour to go. That is a lie. Clearly whomever<br />

put up the sign did a “she’ll be right” and put it up at<br />

the wrong end of the trail. Soon afterward the steep<br />

track became even steeper. Handholds became<br />

commonplace.<br />

An hour later the lake looked no closer. By now<br />

another 10 wasps had made their way into my<br />

boots and settled onto a toe each. Almost every<br />

foot-plant was announced with a stab of pain to<br />

each toe. I was doing mini traverses wherever<br />

possible. Don meanwhile, seemed to be enjoying<br />

himself as he waited every 100m or so for me to<br />

catch up. I might be better at going uphill, but his<br />

forte was the downhills.


Top: Andrea and Patrick nearing the last ridge<br />

Above: 12 Heading along Cedric Ridge with<br />

Mt Franklin in the distance<br />

We stopped and I took of my boots and socks and rearranged<br />

everything. I enjoyed about 100 metres of relative comfort before the<br />

wasps repositioned themselves on my toes.<br />

Another hour later I was considering taking my boots off and walking<br />

bare foot when I heard voices echoing off the lake. We must be<br />

close. Going bootless on this terrain was a dumb idea so I turned and<br />

scrambled down backwards. The humiliation was complete.<br />

Ten minutes later I hobbled up to the hut and took off my boots, amazed<br />

that they had not melted by the flames from my blazing toes. A painful<br />

lesson in cutting toenails just before leaving on these adventures.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25


Heading to Speargrass hut<br />

Day 3 and 4: Speargrass Hut and Mt Robert car park.<br />

18Km 9 hours. Don and I had set aside two days to<br />

complete the round trip from Sabine to the car park. It<br />

turned out to be a brilliant ideas for so many reasons.<br />

Not least were the weather gods continuing to smile down<br />

on us. It also turned a single tough day into one moderate<br />

and then another easy day to finish the trip.<br />

2 km<br />

Leaflet (https://leafletjs.com) | NZ Topo Map (/) images sourced from LINZ (https://www.linz.govt.nz/) - Crown Copyright Reserved<br />

Top to bottom: Speargrass hut<br />

The route we took<br />

Can't go past Backcountry Cuisine and Jetboil<br />

+<br />

−<br />

<br />

50<br />

250<br />

Starting alongside the lake the track veers into the lush<br />

beech forest which is traversed by small streams and a<br />

couple of bridged rivers. The forest floor around us was<br />

covered in thick layers of lichen, ferns and bright green<br />

mosses. The clear streams made it mostly a waste of time<br />

carrying water.<br />

We also attracted the attention of some of the most<br />

confident piwakawaka and robins you will meet. During<br />

a stop a robin brazenly hopped down onto our packs,<br />

skipped down to our boots and then hopped onto our legs<br />

and picked seeds off our gaiters and socks. Priceless.<br />

Speargrass Hut is another of the many stunningly-well<br />

placed wilderness huts we have the freedom to visit.<br />

Nestled in a couple of hectares of sweeping speargrass<br />

and tussock, shielded on three sides by massive ridges<br />

including Julius Peak, and facing down the heavily<br />

forested river valley. Relatively new, the hut is also double<br />

glazed and more importantly, empty of people.<br />

The perfect place to reflect and enjoy a final night away<br />

from civilisation.<br />

Midday next day, after a cleansing dip into Lake Rotoiti,<br />

and an equally cleansing ale at St Arnaud, we found<br />

ourselves planning a return trip up Sabine Valley to the<br />

Blue Lake.<br />

Thanks to Don for a choosing a stunning itinerary. And to<br />

the folk managing those predator traps.<br />

I chose to use Backcountry Cuisine, Jetboil, Keen and<br />

Macpac products.<br />

26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


We are<br />

the mountain<br />

people.<br />

Everything we make is designed by<br />

climbers, for climbers. Each piece is<br />

crafted by peak and crag to give you<br />

Everything we make is designed by climbers,<br />

absolute protection, comfort and mobility<br />

for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak<br />

when and you crag really to give need you absolute it. protection,<br />

comfort and mobility when you really need it.<br />

WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT<br />

Available now from Rab specialist stores throughout NZ.<br />

Hunting And Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Waikato: Trek N Travel, Equip Outdoors,<br />

Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors,<br />

Nelson: PackGearGo, Kaikoura: Coastal Sports, Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sports,<br />

Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet.<br />

Online: huntingandfishing.co.nz, dwights.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, mtoutdoors.co.nz, smallplanetsports.com,<br />

equipoutdoors.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz, outfittersstore.nz<br />

Distributed by Outfitters 0800021732 www.outfitters.net.nz


GEORGIA<br />

*<br />

GEORGIA:<br />

A LITTLE KNOWN TREASURE<br />

Words and images by Pol Tarrés Martrat<br />

When this story landed on our desk, I had to admit<br />

that I had no idea where Georgia (the country) was<br />

located, so I did a wee Google search. Turns out<br />

that Georgia is at intersection between Eastern<br />

Europe and Western Asia, bound on the west by<br />

the Black Sea and to the north and east by Russia<br />

and on its southern border lies Turkey, Armenia and<br />

Azerbaijan.<br />

Georgia small and mountainous, covering an area<br />

of only 67.900 km2. The Likhi Range divides the<br />

country into eastern and western halves whereas<br />

the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range forms the<br />

northern border and the Lesser Caucasus Mountains<br />

run along the southern reaches, so you can see it<br />

would be a great place for some snow sports.<br />

Pol Tarrés Martrat shares his experiences visiting<br />

this little known treasure that is Georgia from his<br />

home base in Spain.<br />

28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />

The remote untouched beauty that is Georgia


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29


Top: Playing around on the catski<br />

Left to right: Goderdzi resort / Cat team / Lone lines amongst the pines<br />

Destination Goderdzi: Southern Georgia<br />

Goderdzi Ski Resort is situated at an<br />

elevation of 1,724m rising to 2,364m, there<br />

are over 8km of slopes available and you<br />

can find endless freeride lines outside of<br />

the slopes. It had been snowing all night<br />

and found plenty of pow, the snow didn’t<br />

disappoint. We did a few runs, taking<br />

pictures and videos and enjoying the<br />

unbelieveable views of Goderdzi Valley.<br />

After sunset we skied to the front door of<br />

the hotel and headed into the spa for a bit of<br />

relaxation.<br />

We spent the next two days playing around on the catski. The<br />

terrain, although not very steep, was really fun as the catski could<br />

take you almost anywhere and we spent the day doing runs in<br />

the middle of the small houses and forest and some open areas<br />

where you can play around doing fast, long turns.<br />

Tuesday was a bluebird day with no wind and you could see for<br />

miles. The snow conditions were great and you could choose so<br />

many different lines. The conditions mean there is almost no risk<br />

of avalanche so it was like one big playground. We only had a<br />

meeting point with the catski at the end of the slope and the rest<br />

you were free to chose your line. We enjoyed every second of it.<br />

The following day the fog and snow arrived so we chose the forest<br />

to ski as it provided more visibility. After a quick lunch we went<br />

back to the top for a “sunset mission.” It’s amazing how the views<br />

can change with a colourful sunset. In this area there are a lot<br />

of small wood cabins that farmers use during the summer which<br />

makes for breathtaking scenery with all the small huts covered in<br />

untouched snow.<br />

30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31<br />

The gondola dwarfed by its surroundings... Goderdzi Ski Resort


Top: All alone in Mestia / Far right: Even the overcast days are great<br />

Left to right: Time to relax / The views are incredible / Solitude and snow<br />

Destination Mestia: Northern Georgia - Greater Caucasus<br />

Our destination was Tetnuldi Ski Resort and things here were<br />

really different. The resort was much bigger, the runs steeper<br />

and mountains higher. With that came more people, however<br />

we still felt like we had the mountain to ourselves. The first<br />

day we woke to a cloudy sky so caught the lift to the top of<br />

the resort, above the cloud layer. Magnificent views of Mount<br />

Tetnuldi (4,858m) and Mount Ushba (4,737m) greeted us, it<br />

was spectacular.<br />

We went with some guides from Vagabond <strong>Adventure</strong>s, they<br />

knew the terrain as this is their home resort, and with a higher<br />

risk of avalanche off-piste and a much larger area to ski it<br />

enabled us to ski freely without fear of getting lost. We spent<br />

the day skiing and enjoying the Georgian pow.<br />

The next day we went to Hatsvali Ski Resort where we did<br />

a few runs through the slopes with astonishing views of the<br />

Ushba Mountains before putting on skins and doing some ski<br />

touring. As time was limited, it was a short one but enough to<br />

know the area has a lot of potential and thousands of places to<br />

explore amongst the big mountains.<br />

Easy, cheap and fun.<br />

After a week in Georgia, we can say that the<br />

country exceeded our expectations, not only snow<br />

wise. We loved the food, we tried all types of<br />

khachapouris (a traditional Georgian dish of filled<br />

bread with cheese, meat or beans.) We also took<br />

part in a Khinkali masterclass and loved it, making<br />

and eating the traditional dumplings.<br />

The people were super charming, and we were<br />

invited to try their homemade wine and even the<br />

local vodka. Even though they didn’t speak a lot of<br />

Engilsh (or Spanish in our case), we were always<br />

received with a big smile.<br />

In conclusion it was an amazing trip to a country<br />

that is a hidden gem, and we know for sure we<br />

will be back again next year. It has so much to<br />

offer; tons of snow, delicious food, lovely people,<br />

astonishing landscapes, adventurous terrain and a<br />

charming culture.<br />

32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />

Tips (and 2 feet) dipped well-into the deep end above Parque Nacional Lanin, Patagonia.<br />

photo: P.M.Fadden


SUFFRAGE AND GROWTH<br />

AN ACCIDENTAL ROMANCE<br />

By Paul Fadden<br />

I learned to ski because I needed the<br />

money.<br />

A weird tour through the warped brothels of<br />

Italian immigration had just stripped me of<br />

a life’s savings, direction, and most worldly<br />

possessions. So when I answered a call<br />

promising winter employment high atop<br />

the Chilean Andes, I asked no questions. I<br />

simply said, “Si.”<br />

Raise the stakes; raise the allure, and so it<br />

goes until somebody’s ‘bust’. In my case,<br />

to ‘bust’ meant a fate worse than drowning<br />

by dirty toilet bowl. And I was tip-toeing<br />

the porcelain edge, I knew it. Lumped atop<br />

a kitchen table was a cluster of rumpled<br />

notes, random coins, a wrinkled bank slip<br />

and pocket lint, enough--to the Peso—for<br />

one last roll of the dice.<br />

What followed was a sixty-hour odyssey<br />

aboard two turbulent airplanes and two<br />

asthmatic buses, ending in regurgitation at<br />

the wheel wells of a rusty flatbed driven<br />

by one, Señor Nelson Rubilar Flores—<br />

‘Nelson’ for short.<br />

My broad-faced Chilean patron smiled<br />

widely beneath dancing eyes. He spoke<br />

not a lick of English save a single,<br />

intensely stressed declaration: ‘Eetz-Eem-<br />

Por-Tant.’ Ah Nelson, how right you are.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35


He gripped me in brotherhood and chucked my<br />

pack over the tailgate. I climbed in and raised a<br />

thumb. Nelson punched it for Maipo.<br />

San Jose de Maipo in Provincia de Cordillera<br />

is Cabernet country, where the “roads” twist<br />

like vines and “driving” is aerobic. For sixty-six<br />

invigorating kilometers, Nelson roared ahead<br />

with reckless abandon. On the sixty-seventh,<br />

he crushed the brake like beer can and I laid<br />

eyes on my fate, the grand-daddy of Chilean ski<br />

culture and industry; Lagunillas.<br />

Centro de Esqui Lagunillas is the country’s<br />

pioneer ski area. Its low altitude and roots<br />

attitude paradoxically pin it down and prop it<br />

up. Big June snow meant an early start to the<br />

season and a dire need for staff. In me, Nelson<br />

saw cheap labor plus nothing to lose, and he<br />

was right.<br />

Promise of income accompanied by<br />

accommodation had already edged-out concern<br />

for creature comforts or inalienable human<br />

rights. But where, I could not help but wonder,<br />

was that accommodation? Save for a series of<br />

60 yr-old wooden platter lifts and a few sagging<br />

shanties, the base appeared to be featureless.<br />

I would have asked, but Nelson had the answer<br />

in the form of a shovel planted at my feet.<br />

“La Francesca,” he said, directing a reverent<br />

gaze uphill.<br />

A building nested a few hundred meters higher<br />

on the southern face. I hadn’t noticed because<br />

only its roof peeked above the snowpack.<br />

Nelson was carving a trail towards it and<br />

indicating, irritably, that I lend a hand. Cold<br />

but sweating, we excavated around clapboard<br />

walls, Plexiglas windows and doors too small<br />

for their frame. Inside, abandoned armies of<br />

crumpled wrappers, unwashed dishes and<br />

rotting food covered every surface. A mouse<br />

dropping carpet sullied an otherwise bare<br />

concrete floor. Heat was by wood fire, water<br />

needed boiling, and electricity ran only when<br />

lifts did. La Francesca, my fortress of solitude.<br />

Back at the carpark I learned there was a<br />

ski school and equipment rental among the<br />

sagging shacks. It was by working there that<br />

I would earn my luxurious accommodation.<br />

Approaching the shop required awkward hops<br />

through high, white dunes, and once there<br />

Nelson forced its door with his shoulder. Inside,<br />

and strewn everywhere, laid a disarray of<br />

skis. In mismatched pairs old or new, large or<br />

small, the floor was a felled forest of yellowed<br />

planks. This plus the La Francesca had to be<br />

rock bottom, surely, but the boot room proved<br />

otherwise.<br />

36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


A dynamic demonstration of the benefits to be found beyond 'the known'. photo: P.M.Fadden


The author; finding footing atop the Catalunya Pyrenees and (inset) reveling in ducky-pow<br />

among the Japan Alps." photo: P.M.Fadden<br />

A mule, happily chewing hay, reined<br />

over a bale someone—maybe Nelson—<br />

had thoughtfully placed in a corner. (The<br />

room was a heated shelter after all, and<br />

much snow had fallen.) The contented<br />

beast cast me an eye that implied I was<br />

the actual ass. And I sighed to sense the<br />

legitimacy of the point.<br />

Meanwhile, Nelson scooped a pair of<br />

158 Vokl Supersports from the melee (I<br />

am 191cm) hoisting the skis, he purred<br />

“Classes, Plata,” and “Eetz-Eem-Por-<br />

Tant.”<br />

‘Plata’ signifies money, like ‘bucks’<br />

denotes cash, and my employer knew<br />

full-well my need. Beaming, Nelson<br />

dodged the mule to retrieve a pair of<br />

shit-kicker Langes. And that rounded-out<br />

my kit.<br />

The assignment: resuscitate the shop<br />

then work as its instructor, with no ski<br />

experience whatsoever.<br />

The following months are etched in<br />

my bones as much as memory. Boil<br />

water, chop wood, ski-train with Nelson,<br />

shovel; feed the mule, sort gear, and<br />

share the romance of sliding downhill<br />

with the citizens of Santiago. Nelson’s<br />

bread and butter were those city folk.<br />

A foreigner-lead class was incentive to<br />

buy. That I was a learner myself seemed<br />

beside the point.<br />

At first, the incessant pace of each day<br />

slowed my recognition of the seed which<br />

was growing. By the time I did, it was<br />

there to stay. A surprise longing to ski<br />

had overgrown the shock of being made<br />

to. A dormant thing awoke and it defied<br />

38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


equip<br />

yourself!<br />

all physical laws save gravity. Whether<br />

blistering sun or bitter cold, I skied. I<br />

hiked last lines while sun set. The ‘Plata’<br />

no longer mattered.<br />

Then a big daddy storm came to call.<br />

Vicious wind coupled by low visibility<br />

closed Lagunillas for three days, sending<br />

Nelson (and the mule) scurrying to the<br />

valley below. I was forgotten, lightless<br />

and isolated within La Francesca. But<br />

rather than shiver, I made a date with<br />

said storm. Battening all hatches, and<br />

touching wood for an absent beacon,<br />

I set a boot pack into void. It was a<br />

scenario I’d never imagined for myself<br />

yet somehow felt drawn to all the same;<br />

navigating by inner compass, seeking to<br />

carve my own line leading home.<br />

Years have passed, yet skiing remains<br />

the source. For it I’ve risked frostbite,<br />

suffered crooks, lied to bosses, bailed<br />

on girlfriends, crashed in bathtubs, and<br />

accepted without reservation that this,<br />

to me, is a lifelong romance, simply<br />

because Eetz-Eem-Por-Tant. Sometimes<br />

that’s all there is to say.<br />

Low Prices Everyday<br />

Free NZ Shipping on<br />

orders over $150 for<br />

members<br />

Members Earn Equip+<br />

Loyalty Points<br />

shop online or instore<br />

equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

62 Killarney Road,<br />

Frankton, Hamilton,<br />

New Zealand<br />

P: 0800 22 67 68<br />

E: sales@equipoutdoors.co.nz


YOUR SNOW HELMET CAN BE YOUR ON-MOUNTAIN DISCO TOO<br />

The year is 2022, and by now most people have heeded the “gospel”<br />

of wearing a great helmet. We know quality helmets, with the latest<br />

safety technology (like MIPS), produced by a trusted helmet brand are<br />

keeping people safe and stylish all over the mountain. Their value isn’t<br />

news, but what may be surprising is finding out that most adult helmets<br />

have spaces to install audio drop-ins, and installation is easy!<br />

Over 20 helmet brands offer audio-ready compatibility allowing skiers<br />

and snowboarders to easily add a wireless system. These systems all<br />

provide Bluetooth audio and phone call capability with glove friendly<br />

controls. Phone calls on the mountain? Yes! The ear pad itself works as<br />

a wind noise dampener (or “DeadCat” in microphone parlance) so calls<br />

can be made on the blusteriest day.<br />

Installation is simple… just open each ear pad up and remove the<br />

pre-cut foam inserts. Not every helmet has clearly marked access so<br />

play around until you get it open. Smith provides a nice convenient<br />

zipper to access the internals. Some models, like the Oakley Mod 5,<br />

need extra foam removed so don’t be afraid to rip (or cut) out more to<br />

accommodate your audio system. Drop your audio kit in and enjoy the<br />

day with music in your lid!<br />

Search audio ready helmet<br />

brands & models using this<br />

QR code link:<br />

One audio kit sits above the rest in both audio performance and<br />

communication. The ALECK 006 is the wireless audio system that<br />

brings premium sound, group communication and a GPS enabled<br />

friend finder. The Aleck 006 puts your playlist at your fingertips, keeps<br />

your squad in touch on storm days, and makes meeting up for aprés<br />

easy.<br />

Pick up the ALECK 006 now at Torpedo 7 , Amazon.com.au or Aleck.io


TURN ANY HELMET INTO AN AUDIO MARVEL<br />

LEARN MORE<br />

CUSTOM<br />

HI-FI AUDIO<br />

GROUP<br />

COMMS<br />

FRIEND<br />

FINDER<br />

WWW.ALECK.IO<br />

AVAILABLE AT:


WINTER FISHING<br />

THEY STILL HAVE TO EAT<br />

By Steve Dickinson<br />

Despite our best intentions, when<br />

the air gets chilly, we tend to back<br />

off. Fish are a cold-blooded creature,<br />

they appreciate temperature, but<br />

they do not react to it as extremely<br />

as we do, however, like many<br />

people, fish tend to be less active<br />

in the cold. As cold-blooded<br />

creatures, their metabolism dips<br />

when temperatures take a dive. But<br />

they still have to eat, maybe a little<br />

less but if they eat, then they can be<br />

caught – simple.<br />

We spoke to a range of cold weather<br />

experts; fishermen, search and<br />

rescue, alpine guides, and ski patrol<br />

and this is their input. The simple key<br />

to enjoying the cold is staying warm.<br />

That is it, simple.<br />

If it gets cold and you want to stay<br />

warm the first rule, is you need to<br />

stay dry. Fishing and keeping dry<br />

may not be as easy as it sounds.<br />

The simplest solution is to keep a<br />

dry towel to dry your hands with after<br />

catching a fish or drying your legs<br />

with when launching a boat. The<br />

smallest hole in your waders will let<br />

in icy water and once your clothes<br />

are wet, especially if they are not<br />

wool, you are going to get cold quick,<br />

so no leaks. In winter on our boat I<br />

keep a dry towel in a dry bag just for<br />

towelling off, a second towel to keep<br />

drying your hands after catching fish.<br />

Second must do; is keeping your<br />

head warm. We lose 80% of our<br />

body heat via your head. You need a<br />

woollen beanie, balaclava, or buff. Of<br />

late I have been using a buff in that<br />

they are versatile, if you get too hot<br />

you can pull it down to your neck, if it<br />

gets real cold, you can use it pulling<br />

up over your ears and head, they<br />

just give you more options. But buy<br />

a good one there are loads of cheap<br />

synthetic ones on the market that<br />

are next too useless. A beanie and<br />

a buff can also be a good combo if<br />

it is really chilly. Word of advice, if<br />

you pull the buff up over your neck<br />

then over your mouth, your breath<br />

will cause condensation, which make<br />

the buff wet, remember keeping dry<br />

is the key.<br />

After making sure your head is<br />

warm next you need to look after<br />

your other extremities. Starting from<br />

the ground up, in waders make<br />

sure you have woollen socks, once<br />

again do not buy cheap. Even if<br />

the product says merino, not all<br />

merino is made equal. You tend to<br />

get what you pay for. Merion is light<br />

weight, breathable, merino manages<br />

moisture by a process called wicking<br />

– in that it will pull moisture away<br />

from your body which if chilled with<br />

make you cold. Merino is also antibacterial<br />

and odour resistance.<br />

Never use synthetic or worse cotton,<br />

as it is quick to suck up water, slow<br />

to dry and should never be worn<br />

next to your skin. If like me you find<br />

wool itchy, there are now a range of<br />

synthetic /wool blends and silk/wool<br />

blends which are easy to wear. Wool<br />

dries quickly and will retain some<br />

heat if it gets wet and has great<br />

thermal qualities – just ask sheep.<br />

Your other extremities are your<br />

hands, ears, and nose. There are<br />

a range of fingerless gloves on the<br />

market which are great for fishing. A<br />

well-known guide showed me a trick<br />

once where he had an additional pair<br />

of extra-large woollen gloves that he<br />

wore over his fingerless gloves for<br />

travelling. For ears and nose they<br />

can be looked after by your buff.<br />

There are a range of commercial<br />

42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//43


hand warmers, they come in an array<br />

of sizes, and some are reusable. You<br />

either snap or mix them which causes a<br />

chemical reaction, and they warm up. Do<br />

not put them in your gloves – rather put<br />

them in a pocket so that if your gloves do<br />

get wet you can warm your hands up. I<br />

have heard of people putting them in their<br />

socks in their waders but really if it is that<br />

cold maybe stay home. To locate these if<br />

you cannot find in your local fishing store<br />

look to any ski outlet. Reusable ones<br />

are more expensive but with repeat use<br />

become a far better deal.<br />

The art of layering. There is an art to<br />

layering. Key rule, no cotton, only wool,<br />

some fleece, and microfleece. Over<br />

the last ten years there has been an<br />

explosion of quality layering products.<br />

What used to be just an itchy thermal<br />

layer and a woolly jumper that has all<br />

changed. There are now a full range of<br />

base layers, mid layers, and top layers. It<br />

is simple- when it is cold put more on.<br />

Fishing, unlike say tramping where you<br />

are constantly moving you need to be<br />

warm from the get-go. This includes<br />

fleece-based legging or pants. I have<br />

two different thickness fleeces legging<br />

I wear under my waders depending on<br />

how cold it is going to be. Top, I wear<br />

a RAB micro fleece, super lightweight,<br />

short sleeved, this is my go too product<br />

winter and summer. Mid layer long sleeve<br />

merino and if it is going to be cold, I add<br />

another layer on top, but making sure<br />

there is heaps of movement (not too tight<br />

for the last layer) – then jacket on top of<br />

that. An obvious observation is that you<br />

can always remove a layer, you cannot<br />

always add one. You do not want to be<br />

too hot so that you sweat, as sweat can<br />

chill off and make you colder. You want<br />

to be comfortably warm, and layering is a<br />

way to maintain that temperature control.<br />

When its cold drink plenty of water. Hot<br />

tea and coffee might seem a good idea,<br />

but you will need to pee, which mean<br />

exposure to the cold! A good option is hot<br />

water, or hot chocolate. What is a real<br />

‘no no’ is alcohol in any form as it lowers<br />

your core body temperature (even if it<br />

feels warm to begin with) – save that wee<br />

dram till you get back home and make it<br />

part of the boasting process, my winter<br />

suggestion is Fireballs.<br />

New Zealand is renowned for having<br />

four seasons in one day so be prepared<br />

– check the forecast but do not 100%<br />

believe it if it says all is good, be prepared<br />

for the worst.<br />

In winter it pays to fish with a friend<br />

should you take a tumble into the water<br />

someone is there to help out and in the<br />

worst-case scenario, go for help or at<br />

least be able to see the first signs of<br />

hypothermia.<br />

When we think of hypothermia, we<br />

think about people trapped on mountain<br />

side in a storm. That is not the case.<br />

Hypothermia can easily occur when you<br />

are exposed to cold air, water, wind, or<br />

rain. Your body temperature can drop to<br />

a dangerously low level at temperatures<br />

of only 10° or higher in wet and windy<br />

weather, or if you are in 16° to 21° of<br />

water you are at risk of hypothermia.<br />

It can happen easily, I once got<br />

hypothermia waiting for a bus in winter.<br />

Symptoms and signs<br />

•person feels cold to touch and may be<br />

shivering violently.<br />

•tiredness – person may fall behind when<br />

walking.<br />

•clumsy, uncoordinated, may fall over and<br />

appear drunk.<br />

•changes in mood with irritability, irrational<br />

behaviour<br />

•person may resist help.<br />

•slow to respond to questions.<br />

•shivering may decrease and stop – this<br />

is a critical sign.<br />

•loss of consciousness<br />

•pale or blueish skin colour<br />

What to do?<br />

The best treatment for hypothermia<br />

is prevention. But if you suspect<br />

hypothermia, the aim of helping the<br />

person is to stop further heat loss and<br />

warm the patient slowly.<br />

•Provide immediate shelter out of the<br />

wind and dry clothing.<br />

•If fully conscious, give warm drinks,<br />

lollies, chocolate, etc.<br />

•If isolated, body contact to reduce heat<br />

loss and slowly warm – e.g. huddle<br />

around the patient in a sleeping bag.<br />

•Get help.<br />

Winter fishing is all about comfort and<br />

safety. The two should go hand in hand.<br />

In most cases there should be little risk<br />

as long as people are sensible and<br />

aware. In winter it pays not to go as far<br />

from your safety access – your vehicle,<br />

accommodation etc. However if you are<br />

going further you need to make sure<br />

you are prepared. Prepare for the cold,<br />

prepare for the worst and you will be<br />

comfortable, safe, and prepared for winter<br />

fun.<br />

44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


xposure<br />

Photographer: Andrew Chad,<br />

Athlete: Corey Seemann,<br />

Location: Jackson, WY, United States<br />

About the shot: If you ever want to frustrate<br />

yourself, try shooting skiing at night with a<br />

flash. We had an idea of what may happen if<br />

everything went in our favour, but that's the<br />

beauty of photography, it usually doesn't. So,<br />

when this image showed up on the back of the<br />

camera at the end of a week-long ski trip, we<br />

called it a night. Because sometimes a little bit<br />

of dumb luck is all you need. The image is fairly<br />

simple when it's broken down. A dark room,<br />

single flash and a white bounce sheet are the<br />

basic concepts here. Tracking the subject though<br />

the dark was a little tricky, but thank god for<br />

modeling lights. But what makes it special to me<br />

is the fact that Corey was wearing his daylight<br />

lenses in the middle of the night. The coloured<br />

lenses and the reflection of the snow in them is<br />

the real treat of the image.<br />

Photographer Credit: Red Bull Illume 2021


WINTER<br />

MACKENZIE<br />

There are moments in a Mackenzie<br />

winter that stand out and define<br />

the season: breathing in crisp<br />

alpine air, the contrast of snowy<br />

white mountains against bright blue<br />

skies, local eateries with roaring<br />

fires and hearty tucker – the perfect<br />

way to warm up with good cheer<br />

after a day exploring an alpine<br />

wonderland. The comfort of steam<br />

rising from hot pools while you<br />

admire the starry skies followed by<br />

a perfect sleep in blissful silence<br />

after a busy day.<br />

So head outdoors and come play<br />

in our expansive mountain-ringed<br />

plateau – the legendary Mackenzie!<br />

48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


MACKENZIE<br />

REGION<br />

*<br />

Heliskiing ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//49<br />

- image by Mount Cook Heliski.


Mt Dobson - Image by Jeremy Lyttle<br />

THREE SKI FIELDS<br />

The Mackenzie Region has three ski fields, all situated within an<br />

easy drive of each other. These family-owned fields offer laid back<br />

uncrowded skiing and boarding with outstanding views of the<br />

lakes and mountains.<br />

Mount Dobson<br />

‘Dobbo’ as it’s known to locals, is located between Fairlie and<br />

Lake Tekapo. Famous for all-day sun, large learners area and<br />

regular snowfalls on the peaks. Go up past the groomed trails<br />

to try some off-piste on the smooth powder with views of lakes<br />

Tekapo & Pūkaki. Warming up at the historic Silverstream Hotel<br />

Pub afterwards is a must. A long standing establishment since<br />

1877, the pub offers craft beer, delicious meals, and live bands.<br />

Celebrate your day on the slopes in true rural style with a visit to<br />

this treasure!<br />

Roundhill Ski Area<br />

Close to Lake Tekapo, Roundhill is one of the country’s largest ski<br />

resorts at a whopping 500 hectares. The access road is one of<br />

the safest (no scary drop offs), and the carpark is adjacent to the<br />

learners area where you’ll often find adults cooking on the BBQ<br />

while the kids learn the basics. The more adventurous skier will<br />

love Australasia’s biggest vertical drop (783m). Located at the top<br />

of the T-bar is the precious von Brown Hut, a licensed café with<br />

some of the best views in the world. Try their speciality drinks 'The<br />

Jumping Goat' and the 'B&B Coffee'.<br />

Roundhill Ski Area - Image by Blackbird Media<br />

Ōhau Snow Fields<br />

Not far from Twizel is Ōhau Snow Fields. This is classic Kiwi<br />

skiing with the lodge offering old school charm with roaring<br />

log fire, group-style dining, and a cosy bar. All ski abilities are<br />

catered for, and there is some adventurous terrain near the top.<br />

Stay the night at the lodge, or simply drive over from your Twizel<br />

accommodation for a day on the slopes. The views of Lake Ōhau<br />

have to be seen to believed!<br />

Ōhau Snow Field - Image supplied<br />

50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Snow shoeing with Alpine Recreation<br />

SKI THE TASMAN GLACIER<br />

The Haupapa/Tasman Glacier is New Zealand’s largest<br />

glacier, and you can ski on top of it! And best of all, you<br />

needn’t be a hardcore professional, this is for intermediate<br />

level skiers. The runs are blue/green and range from 8-10km.<br />

After getting dropped off by helicopter or skiplane you<br />

find yourself on top of the glacier with mountains in every<br />

direction, including the mighty Aoraki/Mount Cook. The<br />

stillness up there is profound, no rustling leaves or singing<br />

birds – just silence and the occasional avalanche far away<br />

(don’t worry, it’s safe on the glacier). Explore ice caves and<br />

incredible ice formations at a relaxed pace with your guide.<br />

This is one bucket-list item that’s truly achievable by almost<br />

any skier.<br />

HELI-SKI<br />

After some adventure? You must be, you’re currently reading<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine! Look no further than heli-ski, this is truly<br />

the stuff that puts you ‘above and beyond’. Charter a flight for<br />

a multi-day skiing adventure. Soar above the vibrant turquoise<br />

lakes, glaciers, and icebergs to spend your day amongst<br />

lofty mountain peaks, skiing virgin snow and revelling in the<br />

grandeur of it all.<br />

ALPINE RECREATION<br />

With the arrival of the winter snows the Southern Alps are<br />

transformed from tussock lands into an extensive playground<br />

for snowshoeing. Alpine Recreation offer 2-5 day trips from<br />

their Rex Simpson Hut at Lake Tekapo. Situated in the Kahui<br />

Kaupeka Conservation Park, part of the Two Thumb Range,<br />

you can enjoy views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and the Main<br />

Divide. It’s wonderful to be exploring the snowy valleys, icecovered<br />

streams, and relax in the evening at the hut nicely<br />

warmed by a logburner. Three days is the recommended trip<br />

length, but even if you just have a weekend to spare you’ll still<br />

get a refreshing break from the normal in a winter wonderland.<br />

Mueller Hut - Image by Siller Francisco<br />

WALKING TRAILS IN WINTER<br />

A winter walk is a great way to boost energy and wake up your<br />

immune system to stave off any winter colds! The fresh air and<br />

incredible snowy mountain views are sure to feed your soul while<br />

you get some exercise.<br />

To get right amongst the mountains you can’t beat hiking up to<br />

Mueller Hut in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. Dubbed the<br />

stairway to heaven, the Sealy Tarns Track in the Aoraki/Mount<br />

Cook National Park is a must for the fit adventurer. 2,200 steps<br />

take you straight up the freshwater lakes of Sealy Tarns providing<br />

spectacular views of the Hooker Valley and the National Park.<br />

The track branches off from the Kea Point track in the village<br />

and is steep with a total height gain of 600m. Those wanting an<br />

overnight adventure continue can continue on the alpine route<br />

for a couple of hours to Mueller Hut. This 28-bunk hut has gas<br />

cookers and solar lighting. During winter it’s strongly advised to<br />

bring an ice axe, walking poles and crampons. Pay the hut fee at<br />

the Department of Conservation visitor centre in the Aoraki/Mount<br />

Cook village, register your intentions, and check the avalanche<br />

advisory report as there is some avalanche risk along the route.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51


Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail<br />

CYCLING THE ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL<br />

Aoraki/Mount Cook & Lake Tekapo are the two starting<br />

points for the world-famous 315km Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.<br />

This nine-section trail stretches from the Southern Alps to<br />

the Pacific Ocean. If riding the full trail doesn’t fit with your<br />

schedule, try one of the day rides. Some of the most scenic<br />

sections are near the town of Twizel.<br />

There are many recognised benefits of winter cycling. You’ll<br />

burn more calories due your body working harder to stay<br />

warm. Studies have shown that your resting metabolic rate<br />

increases when you’re exposed to cold. It all adds up to a fitter<br />

body while your lazy mates are busy with Netflix and chill.<br />

Some tips for staying safe while winter cycling include lowering<br />

your saddle to lower centre of gravity and decrease wobble<br />

on ice, letting some air out of the tyres to increase traction,<br />

layering appropriately, and wearing gloves.<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> South have a winter Alps 2 Ocean packaged<br />

tour that includes mulled wine, hot water bottles, warm fires,<br />

soaking in hot pools, and much more to ensure total comfort<br />

for the six-day tour.<br />

STARGAZING<br />

Winter is the best time to experience the protected ‘park in the<br />

sky’, the 4,367sq km Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky<br />

Reserve. It gets darker sooner, and the centre of the Milky Way<br />

is right above you. The spacious landscape coupled with strict<br />

lighting controls ensures you’ll get a stellar view of the night<br />

sky in the Mackenzie. There’s a wide range of paid tours to<br />

choose from: a working observatory, floating in hammocks in<br />

hot pools, a wine cellar, farm tours, and even small group tours<br />

that deliver a bespoke experience at your accommodation.<br />

You can also try your hand at astrophotography with one of the<br />

region’s talented guide/photographers.<br />

View from Mt John – Dark Sky Project<br />

Another option is to bring plenty some cosy blankets and<br />

folding chairs (don’t forget a thermos of hot chocolate!)<br />

and find your own special place to ponder the universe<br />

beneath the stars. There are plenty of good locations on<br />

the canal roads, and seeing the stars reflected in the water<br />

is truly a special sight.<br />

HOT POOLS<br />

Everything you need for the ultimate day out is at Tekapo<br />

Springs. Try a thrilling snow tube ride, ice skate on the<br />

outdoor rink, then warm up in the hot pools. The onsite<br />

café is fully licensed with a wide range of food and drink<br />

for everyone. Treat yourself to a massage or beauty<br />

treatment at the day spa, or stargaze from a hot pool with<br />

their Tekapo Star Gazing tours at night.<br />

52//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


"<br />

mindfulness = attention+intention<br />

We have all done it.<br />

Rocked up to the boat, the ski<br />

field, the rugby game, or the hike,<br />

not feeling 100%. Sure, it was<br />

great meeting up with friends the<br />

night before but then adding too<br />

much merriment to the evening<br />

basically ruins the following day,<br />

possibly the week. You might not<br />

even be hung-over or sick, but<br />

the remnant of alcohol removes<br />

your edge, or, to use a term that<br />

has been used a lot recently, the<br />

alcohol impacts or removes your<br />

‘intention’.<br />

Intention; is defined as a noun<br />

as something that you want and<br />

plan to do:<br />

Stress, health, circumstance,<br />

weather can all get in the way of<br />

our intention.<br />

But alcohol is a substance that<br />

we ‘choose’ to add that often<br />

gets in the way of our core<br />

intentions.<br />

Your intention was to go fishing,<br />

skiing, biking, or tramping. Not to<br />

feel like ‘ah shit’ for the morning<br />

waiting for the alcohol fog to lift.<br />

With “Dry July” looming and with<br />

the event becoming more and<br />

more popular, it is a good time<br />

to look at our drinking culture.<br />

This is not a goodie-two-shoes,<br />

finger-pointing, evangelical<br />

crusade against alcohol. This is<br />

a look at being mindful, (which is<br />

very WOKE at present) paying<br />

attention and maintaining the<br />

right intention.<br />

What is mindful drinking?<br />

Mindfulness = attention +<br />

intention<br />

Mindfulness is about paying<br />

attention. So many of us go<br />

through life never really noticing<br />

or even considering how we feel,<br />

what’s going on in our heads,<br />

or how we respond to the world<br />

around us.<br />

An addictive world can creep<br />

up on us slowly, it is not always<br />

alcohol or drugs but can be<br />

anything, anything that we feel<br />

we must do ‘or feel compelled to<br />

do’, from that 5k run every day<br />

to simply checking your phone<br />

messages as soon as you wake<br />

up. Unaware repetition is the<br />

subliminal cancer that can rob us<br />

of our intention.<br />

If someone asked you the night<br />

before, ‘do you want to just<br />

have an average day skiing<br />

and feel sick or do you want<br />

this third glass of wine’ – it’s an<br />

easy answer. But only if you<br />

are attentive, if someone else is<br />

pouring your wine or you are not<br />

aware of time and numbers –<br />

you are not mindfully drinking.<br />

Mindfulness is also about living<br />

with intention. Sometimes it<br />

feels like life is happening to<br />

us, it is the way we have been<br />

"<br />

programmed. But<br />

as we notice what’s<br />

going on inside us and<br />

how we react to other<br />

people, we can begin<br />

to take control.<br />

We start to live<br />

deliberately. Making<br />

things happen for us<br />

instead of to us.<br />

Mindfulness is also about<br />

living with intention.


Living with intention<br />

Your intention can revolve around an<br />

experience or it can revolve around your<br />

whole life. Some are happy and don’t<br />

need to make any changes, others want<br />

change but are not sure how to bring it<br />

about and some simply have not noticed.<br />

Our reasons for wanting to change are as<br />

diverse as we are.<br />

So much of our culture revolves around<br />

alcohol and it is not until you stop that<br />

you realise how often that connection is<br />

there. If for no other reason do Dry July<br />

so that you can see for yourself how<br />

often and how basic that connection is,<br />

once you have identified it, it makes your<br />

intention so much easy to fulfil.<br />

Mindful drinking really is as simple as<br />

paying attention and living with intention.<br />

Drinking is not about getting drunk,<br />

it’s just a by-product. But the social<br />

aspect, not even pressure just location<br />

and process, can make not drinking<br />

uncomfortable, difficult. As awareness<br />

of the impact of drinking has grown, we<br />

have seen a growth of non-alcohol and<br />

low alcohol beverages bloom. I recall<br />

vividly receiving a pallet of non-alcoholic<br />

Heineken as a promotion and didn’t really<br />

know what to do with it. We all agreed<br />

it would never take off. We were wrong,<br />

now, supermarkets have whole sections<br />

dedicated to non-alcoholic drinks. I am<br />

a fussy beer drinker, I prefer a strong<br />

flavoured IPA, and now, sure enough,<br />

there are several on the market that is<br />

alcohol free.<br />

In the US there are now full blow AF<br />

(alcohol-free) bars. In New Zealand,<br />

we have seen the alcohol-free range<br />

increase, particularly online. Leading<br />

the way in selection is Clear Head<br />

Drinks an online company based here<br />

in New Zealand dedicated to alcoholfree<br />

beverages. We caught up with<br />

Donna and Rick and asked them how<br />

the company came about.<br />

How did clear head drinks come about?<br />

Clear Head Drinks was born out of<br />

the need from the co-founder of the<br />

company, Ricky Bartlett who decided<br />

to stop drinking alcohol 8 years ago<br />

but who wanted to still be able to drink<br />

alcoholic drinks but without the effects<br />

of alcohol. Looking around there was a<br />

very limited supply of drinks and those<br />

drinks that were available tended to be<br />

spread out amongst different shops,<br />

supermarkets, and online stores. The<br />

initial idea had been to gather all the<br />

drinks that were on the market and<br />

have them under one roof so that Kiwis<br />

had one place that they could come<br />

to buy NA/Alcohol-free drinks knowing<br />

that they were looking at the complete<br />

collection. The problem was that not<br />

all those drinks tasted any good and<br />

so we decided to look overseas where<br />

the markets were more established<br />

to find a wider variety. At that time,<br />

even though New Zealand was a<br />

craft beer nation, there were no NA or<br />

alcohol-free craft beers available that<br />

were brewed in NZ and so we went<br />

out to the USA, Europe, Canada, and<br />

Australia to find a range that would<br />

satisfy thirsty Kiwis. This is how the<br />

current set-up came into being and<br />

Clear Head Drinks now has a large<br />

range of beverage options from NZ<br />

and from overseas with many of those<br />

drinks being world leaders in their field.<br />

What was the biggest challenge you<br />

had in establishing the company?<br />

Clear Head Drinks was the first,<br />

dedicated NA/Alcohol Free online<br />

store in the country and so being the<br />

first brought with it some challenges<br />

because this path had not been walked<br />

before. Connecting with suppliers from<br />

overseas, arranging freight at a time<br />

when the supply chain was starting<br />

to be affected by Covid and coming<br />

up with the funds to be able to buy<br />

large amounts of stock to bring into<br />

the country were all big challenges. A<br />

large stumbling block was our website.<br />

We had a launch date in mind, but the<br />

development of the website did not go<br />

according to plan and so everything<br />

was delayed as we found a new<br />

website developer, and this turned<br />

out to be an expensive and timeconsuming<br />

exercise.<br />

"<br />

Clear Head Drinks was born out of the need from the co-founder of<br />

the company, Ricky Bartlett who decided to stop drinking alcohol 8<br />

years ago but who wanted to still be able to drink alcoholic drinks but<br />

without the effects of alcohol.<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55


" We will continue<br />

to do our part<br />

by bringing an<br />

extensive range of<br />

quality, healthy<br />

and tasty nonalcoholic<br />

drinks<br />

to the NZ market.<br />

As with the emergence of low alcohol beer<br />

did you originally feel any resistance to the<br />

concept?<br />

The idea for Clear Head Drinks came about<br />

8 years ago but it wasn't until the first full<br />

lock down that we acted and began building<br />

the company. If we had started the company<br />

when we had the idea, it could have been<br />

a different story as the non-alcoholic<br />

movement hadn't really taken off at that time<br />

and there was resistance to the concept.<br />

Fast forward 7 years and the overall move to<br />

a more "wellness" focused society in general<br />

and NA/Alcohol-free drinking had become<br />

more and more accepted worldwide and that<br />

acceptance was certainly growing here in<br />

NZ. When we asked people about our idea<br />

we were constantly greeted with positive<br />

feedback and people saying how there was a<br />

market for drinks like this and how more and<br />

more adults wanted to move away from the<br />

harmful effects of alcohol. You always had<br />

the odd person who would say "what's the<br />

point" but generally people understood and<br />

were hugely supportive and there is no doubt<br />

that Kiwis have really welcomed the idea<br />

with open arms.<br />

On a day-to-day level – week by week, have<br />

you been affected by distribution issues?<br />

The distribution issues have been twofold<br />

for us with delays and cost increases<br />

when bringing the stock in from overseas<br />

as well as delivery issues here at home.<br />

The importing of goods has become harder<br />

thanks to container shortages and the effect<br />

of covid on the distribution network (as well<br />

as boats getting stuck in Canals!) and so this<br />

has not only increased the time to get stock<br />

from abroad, but the costs have gone up. At<br />

home, the problems have been, again, due<br />

to the covid issue which has taken courier<br />

drivers off the road, and slowed the ability<br />

for our warehouse to pick, pack and dispatch<br />

orders and this has led to delays.<br />

I am aware that beer has a used by<br />

date – how do you factor that in with<br />

such and extensive range?<br />

There is a lot of juggling that needs to<br />

be done to have products in the store<br />

that have a significant shelf life so<br />

that customers have the certainty that<br />

when the drinks arrive, they are going<br />

to be as good as they can be. When<br />

purchasing from Europe for instance, it<br />

can take up to 3 months for the ship to<br />

arrive and if the product has, like with<br />

Beer, a 12-month shelf life then it is<br />

imperative that what is sent to us is as<br />

fresh as possible to make sure that we<br />

have plenty of time to be able to sell<br />

the goods and that when they arrive<br />

at your door they taste as good as<br />

they should. Keeping a close eye on<br />

when the "best before" dates run out<br />

enables us to order in the appropriate<br />

time frames so that we always have<br />

the best stock on hand.<br />

Do you see a trend in what is popular<br />

– what sells best?<br />

There is no question that New Zealand<br />

is more of a beer nation than anything<br />

else and so we probably sell more<br />

craft beer than any other drink. We<br />

do also sell a great deal of sparkling<br />

wine and one of our exclusive brands,<br />

Thomson & Scott, is our biggest<br />

selling individual product. We are<br />

finding that buyers are willing to try<br />

new things and that is why we look to<br />

increase our range on a regular basis<br />

to give more choice and variety.<br />

There is a worldwide trend to AF bars<br />

– do you think that will start to happen<br />

in New Zealand?<br />

The trend towards non-alcoholic<br />

bars is one that we feel is inevitable<br />

here in New Zealand. There was an<br />

attempt in 2015 with a bar called "Tap<br />

Bar" in Auckland but it didn't work as<br />

the market wasn't ready for it and the<br />

concept of the bar, opening at midnight<br />

to gather those spilling out of other<br />

bars, just didn't fly.<br />

Fast forward to 2022 and Unleaded<br />

Alcohol-Free opened in the Wairarapa,<br />

initially as part of the Greytown<br />

truckstop venue. Unleaded has been<br />

well received with even sceptical<br />

patrons becoming happy customers.<br />

With NA/Alcohol-free drinks becoming<br />

more mainstream, we do see AF bars<br />

having their place in NZ and it is only<br />

a matter of time before this happens<br />

across the country, initially with "popup"<br />

bars and then with permanent<br />

venues.<br />

What does the future look like for clear<br />

head drinks?<br />

The NA/AF drinks market is only just<br />

beginning here in NZ. There is a great<br />

deal of interest in the category, but bars<br />

and restaurants are still very slow in<br />

adopting the idea of alcoholic drinks<br />

and where they have jumped on board,<br />

the options are limited. There is no<br />

question that when NA/AF drinks are<br />

available they sell and so it's a case of<br />

educating more hospitality premises so<br />

that they understand that they can sell<br />

this style of drinks, keep more of their<br />

customers happy and make margin at<br />

the same time. We will continue to do<br />

our part by bringing an extensive range<br />

of quality, healthy and tasty drinks<br />

to the NZ market and continuing to<br />

push the message that you can drink<br />

authentic, great-tasting adult drinks,<br />

and continue to enjoy the ritual of<br />

drinking but not suffer the harm that<br />

comes with alcohol.<br />

56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


New Zealand’s first online store<br />

solely dedicated to Non Alcoholic<br />

adult drinks.<br />

Perfect after a days adventuring - satisfy<br />

the taste without the after effects. Adult<br />

drinks that make you feel part of the<br />

socialising yet let you wake up the next<br />

day with a clear head ready for your<br />

next adventure.<br />

.<br />

No matter your reason.......we’ve got you covered<br />

Beers - Wines - Spirits - RTD’s - Ciders - All delivered to your door<br />

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz


Got the pip<br />

In the mix<br />

O%<br />

www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz<br />

www.lyres.com<br />

www.stateofgracedrinks.co.nz<br />

www.mondaydistillery.com<br />

www.hancocks.co.nz<br />

In the spirit<br />

On the hop<br />

58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Unlike anywhere else?<br />

Yip. Here’s why...<br />

For starters, it’s not crowded.<br />

And the snow is incredible, because of, well,<br />

British Columbia winters.<br />

It could be just like anywhere else, but it ain’t.<br />

Come on over.<br />

There’s plenty of room.<br />

And the runs are endless, which means<br />

tired legs will be stoked to sink into the<br />

country’s largest slope-side outdoor<br />

hot pools. Let that soak in!<br />

The accommodation is right beside the lifts,<br />

our team is super-friendly, and well,<br />

it’s Canada, eh? The only thing stuck up here is<br />

the top of the mountain. It’s all pretty chill.<br />

(Except for the hot pools. Those are warm.)<br />

Save up to<br />

50% OFF<br />

LODGING & LIFT TICKETS<br />

See PanoramaResort.com/NZ for details.<br />

1.800.663.2929 / PanoramaResort.com


THE CARDRONA<br />

EXPERIENCE<br />

Established in 2013 The Cardrona experience is situated at<br />

the base of Cardrona Alpine Resort, just 45 minutes from<br />

Queenstown and 20 minutes from Wanaka town centre. It was<br />

started by Kel who had a passion for the region and a deep<br />

love of horses, which she combined to create an unforgettable<br />

kiwi experience for everyone.<br />

Simply The Cardrona activity centre offers first-class, familyfriendly<br />

guided horse treks and quad biking adventures in the<br />

stunning Cardrona Valley. You can explore The Cardrona’s<br />

unique slice of high-country heaven by horseback and quad<br />

bikes, summer or winter, all year-round.<br />

The handpicked trekking horses, with their kind and gentle<br />

temperament, take you on an unforgettable journey in the<br />

mountains. With a range of ages, heights and ‘horsanalities’<br />

across the herd, The Cardrona can cater to different weights<br />

and experience levels.<br />

By horseback or quad you can experience the rugged highcountry<br />

scenery, see its changing moods and picturesque<br />

seasons which Cardrona Valley is renowned for. Learn about<br />

the regions gold-mining history, you check out the working<br />

farm and grab a beer at the iconic Cardrona Hotel. The<br />

possibilities are endless.<br />

Group sizes are small & book out quickly so be sure to lock in<br />

your saddles early to avoid missing out!<br />

Beginners’ options – to advance All levels catered for<br />

• Cost $199 - $349<br />

• How to book www.thecardrona.co.nz<br />

The most special and exciting way to create your lasting Wanaka memories is from<br />

horseback or quad bike high up in the stunning mountains of The Cardrona.<br />

Ride out with THE CARDRONA today to discover the secrets of our unique alpine paradise!<br />

WWW.THECARDRONA.CO.NZWW.THECARDRONA.CO.NZ


Reviews from<br />

millions of Tripadvisor<br />

travellers place this<br />

attraction in the top<br />

10% worldwide.<br />

Come cycling in stunning<br />

Central Otago and let the<br />

experts look after all your needs<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail<br />

and more...<br />

Roxburgh Gorge trail view<br />

Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366<br />

Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days<br />

Cromwell Bike Shop open 7 days<br />

www.bikeitnow.co.nz<br />

Tripadvisor<br />

Travellers’<br />

Choice<br />

Bike It Now!<br />

⬤⬤⬤⬤⬤


INSULATED JACKETS<br />

ONE FOR EVERY OCCASSION<br />

By Lynne Dickinson<br />

If you take a moment to do a little bit of people watching, you<br />

will notice that nearly every second person will be wearing what<br />

we used to call a “puffer jacket”. These days they are not just for<br />

the avid adventurer, insulated jackets have become a staple in<br />

everyone’s wardrobe and there is such a variety of them that it is<br />

easy to get overwhelmed by the choice.<br />

There are now quite a wide range of fills available, and each<br />

comes with its pros and cons, so it’s about deciding which one<br />

best suits your needs.<br />

Synthetic: These used to be the underdogs of the<br />

insulated jackets, but as technology has improved<br />

so has the ability to imitate what nature provides.<br />

Synthetic fill jackets now are able to imitate the<br />

properties of down and yet remain water resistant<br />

enabling you to use your jacket in wet conditions.<br />

The downside in the past has been the warmth-toweight<br />

ratio, however, new synthetic insulation, seen<br />

in some of the high-end technical jackets have been<br />

engineered to resemble to warmth-to-weight ratios of<br />

down, and others have developed synthetic fill that is<br />

able to breathe in high-output activities.<br />

62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


ab Xenon 2.0 Jacket $279.95<br />

An all-mountain lightweight, synthetic insulated<br />

jacket using 100% post-consumer recycled<br />

PrimaLoft® Silver insulation and a weather<br />

resistant recycled Pertex® Quantam outer.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

patagonia Micro Puff® Jacket $399.99<br />

The best warmth for weight of any jacket Patagonia has ever<br />

built, the Micro Puff® Jacket delivers ultralightweight, waterresistant,<br />

down-like warmth with PlumaFill synthetic insulation<br />

– a revolutionary material that replicates the structure of down,<br />

offering the same warmth and packability but with the warmwhen-wet<br />

performance of synthetic insulation. This jacket is<br />

also Fair Trade Certified sewn, which means the people<br />

who made it earned a premium for their labour. It's available in<br />

men's and women's cuts, and a range of colours.<br />

WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ<br />

Marmot Men’s Solus Jacket $299.95<br />

3M Thinsulate Recycled Featherless Jacket.<br />

Made with 75% recycled loose-fill fibres. As warm as<br />

700 fill power down, and maintains performance in<br />

wet conditions.<br />

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ<br />

Wool/synthetic:<br />

Wool has always been considered one of the best<br />

forms of insulation and this is now being used in<br />

insulated jackets. With a high warmth-to-weight ratio<br />

and its ability to performs well when wet, it’s being<br />

used in a variety of insulated jackets. The downside<br />

to wool is simply that it doesn’t reduce in size when<br />

packed.<br />

icebreaker Women's MerinoLoft Helix Jacket $399.99<br />

A technical lofted jacket made with sustainable<br />

merino wool and recycled materials, the Helix Jacket<br />

is a warm winter outer layer for everyday versatility.<br />

WWW.ICEBREAKER.COM<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//63


Down: Down jackets were always<br />

considered the penultimate in<br />

insulation. The down (usually geese<br />

or duck) has an incredibly high<br />

warmth-to-weight ratio and is the<br />

best insulator (pound-for-pound) in<br />

the world. It’s lightweight and packs<br />

down incredibly small.<br />

The main downside of the downfilled<br />

jackets is that they lose their<br />

heat retaining ability if they get wet.<br />

This has been counteracted with<br />

the development of water-resistant<br />

down. This is simply down treated<br />

with a water-resistant coating at<br />

a molecular level. Because the<br />

coating is applied at a micro scale<br />

it adds little weight and does not<br />

affect the loft.<br />

What is fill power? When looking<br />

at down jackets you want to take<br />

note of their “fill power”. This shows<br />

the quality of the down; the higher<br />

the number, the more volume the<br />

down will occupy. A 500-600 range<br />

fill will require more down (making it<br />

feel heavier and bulkier) to achieve<br />

the same warmth as a 800-900 fill.<br />

Baffles:<br />

These help maintain an even<br />

distribution of your fill and prevent<br />

the material from gathering at the<br />

bottom of your jacket.<br />

Wide baffles provide the warmest<br />

option, although they can<br />

sometimes feel bulky, whereas<br />

narrow baffles tend to compress<br />

the jacket more and therefore work<br />

well underneath a waterproof outer<br />

layer and are easy to pack up.<br />

The baffles have been designed<br />

to create real style and shape but<br />

if you are looking for warmth then<br />

you may want to consider the box<br />

wall stitched baffles as opposed<br />

to the stitch-through style. Stitchthrough<br />

keeps the insulation evenly<br />

spread, however the fact that it<br />

is stitched through the jacket can<br />

cause heat to be lost where the<br />

stitching is made, whereas the box<br />

wall stitching allows maximum loft<br />

and designed to prevent heat loss.<br />

Shell materials:<br />

The outer material will also depend<br />

on the use of your jacket. Some<br />

are completely waterproof, some<br />

water resistant and others not really<br />

designed for wet conditions.<br />

I have three insulated jackets in<br />

my wardrobe: One a classic down<br />

fill vest with durable waterproof<br />

resistant coating from Huffer with<br />

wide stitch-through baffles that I<br />

wear almost daily in the winter with<br />

jeans.<br />

One down-filled water-resistant<br />

jacket from RAB, super lightweight<br />

but super warm is my go-to when I<br />

am anywhere near the snow. I also<br />

take it hiking and it creates a great<br />

pillow when in its stuff sack.<br />

My other go-to is a featherless<br />

Insulation jacket from Marmot,<br />

which has a super stylish cut<br />

and cool baffle design. It’s warm<br />

enough to wear during the height of<br />

winter but stylish and compactable<br />

enough fit in any bag and not take<br />

up too much room.<br />

Marmot Women’s Highlander Hoody $449.95<br />

Pertex Quantum® fabric offers wind<br />

protection while also maximising the<br />

efficiency and warmth of 700-fillpower-down<br />

insulation. Lightweight<br />

and compressible.<br />

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ<br />

rab Cubit Stretch Down Vest $349.95<br />

Lightweight, packable and perfect<br />

for everyday wear, the Cubit Vest<br />

is cosy, stylish, stretchy, highly<br />

functional and gives new life to<br />

quality down.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

outdoor research Helium Down Hoody $449.99<br />

Durable, abrasion-resistant Pertex® Quantum, 800+ fill<br />

goose down. A waterproof version of Pertex® Shield with<br />

Diamond Fuse fabric adds weather protection to the hood and<br />

shoulders. Available in men's and women's specific versions.<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


INSULATED....<br />

rab Cubit Stretch Down Hoody $499.95<br />

A functional, everyday wind-resistant<br />

and lightweight stretch down jacket<br />

filled with 700FP P.U.R.E recycled<br />

down and Pertex® 3D Weave outer.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

Marmot Men’s Hype Down Hoody $649.95<br />

800-fill-power down provides exceptional<br />

warmth, loft, and compactibility. Pertex<br />

Quantum® fabric protects from wind and<br />

improves the efficiency of insulation.<br />

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ<br />

rab Microlight Alpine Jacket $399.95<br />

Rab’s classic lightweight highly packable,<br />

multi-purpose down jacket is an everyday<br />

jacket and mountain layer featuring a fully<br />

recycled shell, insulation and lining.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

rab Valiance Jacket $699.95<br />

The ultimate warm and waterproof down<br />

jacket made from durable, waterproof<br />

Pertex® outer and filled with the highest<br />

quality 800 fill hydrophobic down, keeping<br />

you warm throughout the winter.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

outdoor research Coldfront Down Jacket $349.99<br />

700+ fill power of responsibly-sourced-down insulation,<br />

85%-recycled VerticalX ECO insulation on the top of the<br />

shoulders and in the cuffs for increased weather resistance and<br />

a 53%-recycled ripstop exterior to block wind and resist rain and<br />

snow. Features include internal wrist gaiters with thumb loops.<br />

Available in men's and women's specific versions.<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

Marmot Women’s Featherless Jacket $399.95<br />

Lightweight 3M Thinsulate Recycled<br />

Featherless Jacket. Made with 75% recycled<br />

loose-fill fibres. As warm as 700 fill power down,<br />

and maintains performance in wet conditions.<br />

WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ


MID & SHELLS....<br />

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Shell $549.99<br />

A high-output piece designed to move and breathe<br />

with you, the Dawn Patrol Shell is the embodiment<br />

of durability. Designed with four-way stretch and<br />

double weave fabric, quick movements, banger uphill<br />

laps and light weather are all covered. Men’s and<br />

Women’s available.<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody $179.99<br />

The Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody offers<br />

ultimate sun coverage as well as water resistance for<br />

mountain missions with unpredictable weather.<br />

Men’s and Women’s available.<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />

rab Xenair Alpine Jacket $399.95<br />

An adaptable synthetic highly<br />

breathable, weather resistant<br />

insulated hoody perfect for<br />

alpine adventures. Made with<br />

Pertex® Quantum Air outer<br />

and insulated with PrimaLoft®<br />

Gold insulation.<br />

WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />

outdoor research snowcrew Jacket $399.99<br />

Designed for skiers and snowboarders, delivering<br />

performance, warmth and style with a 56%-recycled<br />

shell fabric and 85%-recycled insulation. Features<br />

an adjustable hood with a wire brim that fits most<br />

snowsports helmets, pit zips for ventilation, a<br />

powder skirt, fore-arm ski pass pocket and a doubleseparating<br />

front zip.<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

outdoor research Archangel GORE-TEX Bibs $999.99<br />

3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility with 3-layer<br />

GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panels where you need<br />

them - on the knees, lower back and crotch gusset.<br />

Features include top to bottom zips, adjustable<br />

venting and cuff size adjustments to fit climbing or ski<br />

touring boots.<br />

WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />

66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid pants $479.99<br />

Designed with a single-minded focus on<br />

highly efficient mountain travel, the Dawn<br />

Patrol Pants are the quintessential highoutput<br />

touring pants. Men’s and Women’s<br />

available.<br />

WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ


icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Long Sleeve<br />

Half ZipT-Shirt $449.99<br />

A versatile, body-mapped zipneck<br />

top that’s ideal for highoutput<br />

mountain adventures,<br />

the ZoneKnitLong Sleeve<br />

Half Zip features 100% merino<br />

wool for all-natural warmth and<br />

temperature regulation.<br />

WWW.ICEBREAKER.CO.NZ<br />

Icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Insulated Vest $399.99<br />

A body-mapped performance vest that’s ideal for<br />

high-output mountain adventures, the ZoneKnit<br />

Insulated Vest features 100% merino wool for allnatural<br />

warmth and temperature regulation.<br />

WWW.ICEBREAKER.CO.NZ<br />

icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Short Sleeve T-Shirt $119.99<br />

Our most breathable and lightweight tee for highexertion<br />

activities, the ZoneKnit Short Sleeve Tee<br />

features a clean design with mesh panels to help<br />

regulate your body temperature.<br />

WWW.ICEBREAKER.CO.NZ<br />

GEAR FOR EVERY ADVENTURER<br />

www.marmotnz.co.nz


MACPAC'S PERRENIAL FAVOURITES...<br />

UBER LIGHT RANGE – THE JUST IN CASE LAYER<br />

Range includes – Jackets, vests and<br />

women’s coats. Kids’ jackets available<br />

too.<br />

True to its name, the Uber Light Range<br />

provides lightweight warmth without<br />

the bulk. It's designed to be a versatile<br />

mid or outer layer — depending on the<br />

weather — and it's filled with 650 loft<br />

RDS duck down for cosy warmth. The<br />

lightweight nylon outer features a water<br />

repellent finish to help protect against<br />

moisture, while the elastic bound hem<br />

and cuffs help to trap heat inside the<br />

jacket to keep you warmer. The Uber is<br />

perfect for layering up this season.<br />

The Responsible Down Standard (RDS)<br />

is an independent, voluntary global<br />

standard in the ethical sourcing of down<br />

and feathers. All Macpac down is 100%<br />

RDS certified.<br />

Features:<br />

• 650 loft Responsible Down<br />

Standard duck down<br />

• Lightweight nylon shell with water<br />

repellent treatment<br />

• Elastic bound hem and cuffs<br />

• Zipped hand pockets<br />

• Packs into tiny stuff sack (included)<br />

PRICING FROM $159.99 - $289.99<br />

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />

HALO DOWN RANGE – A REMASTERED CLASSIC<br />

Range includes – Jackets and vests<br />

The Halo range balances warmth and<br />

versatility. This jacket is a great option<br />

for wearing around town, around the<br />

hills, and around the campsite.<br />

Its combination of 100% recycled<br />

fabrics and 600 loft RDS duck down<br />

provides plenty of feel good warmth.<br />

An adjustable hood, hem and cuffs help<br />

trap heat in, and a PFC-free WR finish<br />

encourages water to bead and roll off<br />

the fabric's surface.<br />

They have also updated a few features<br />

to modernise the style, as well as<br />

increasing the size of the internal<br />

pocket. This removes the need for a<br />

separate stuff sack because now you<br />

can pack the jacket in there instead.<br />

Features:<br />

• Internal draft tubes<br />

• Zipped hand pockets<br />

• Tricot lining on collar and hand<br />

pockets<br />

• Adjustable cuffs, hood and hems<br />

• Packs into internal pocket<br />

• Regular fit<br />

PRICING FROM $229.99 - $299.99<br />

WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />

68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


GLERUPS BLACK RUBBER BOOT CHARCOAL $199.00<br />

Want to discover the comfiness and softness of 100%<br />

felted wool? Try glerups. Over time glerups will mould<br />

to your feet for all-day comfort. Available in slipper,<br />

shoe and boot with a leather or rubber sole.<br />

glerups is your best adventure accessory.<br />

WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ<br />

SALEWA WILDFIRE LEATHER $299.90<br />

The Wildfire Leather is ideal for everyday use, yet provides<br />

the support and stability required for hiking to light climbing.<br />

The high-quality, 1.4mm suede upper is supported by a<br />

protective rubber rand. Underfoot, the POMOCA® Speed<br />

MTN Path outsole has been developed to ensure versatile<br />

grip and sure-footed contact.<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $299.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 is a low-cut alpine hiking and trekking<br />

shoe built for enhanced performance and control in a wide<br />

spectrum of mountain terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede<br />

leather upper ensures good comfort and protection and<br />

is further reinforced with a full 360° rubber rand to see off<br />

rock and scree.<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $349.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric upper<br />

with a protective rubber rand for protection against rock, scree and<br />

debris. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal<br />

waterproofing and breathability. The EVA midsole provides superior<br />

cushioning and excellent comfort for a technical shoe.<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $399.90<br />

The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric<br />

upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX®<br />

Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability.<br />

The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers<br />

allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot.<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90<br />

Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our<br />

lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well<br />

on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-<br />

TEX® lining makes it ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity<br />

levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.<br />

WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//69


gasmate Alpine Butane Stove $79.99<br />

With a vaporisation tube for consistent<br />

performance at altitude, the Alpine stove is<br />

ideal for extended backcountry and alpine<br />

use. Lightweight at 450g with 11,850 BTUs of<br />

cooking power.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set<br />

$149.00<br />

For quick boiling when you need it! A<br />

super lightweight aluminium stove with<br />

quick boil technology, piezo ignition<br />

and accessories all packaged in a<br />

handy mesh carry bag.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -5°C Sleeping Bag<br />

$129.00<br />

The Mamaku Pro -5°C sleeping bag provides<br />

exceptional warmth on cold adventures. The<br />

semi-tapered design features a drawstringadjustable<br />

contoured hood that packs down<br />

into the handy compression bag for easy pack<br />

and carry.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

Kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping Bag<br />

$119.00<br />

The Mamaku Trek 0°C is perfect for lightweight<br />

hiking with a semi-tapered design and drawstring<br />

adjustable hood. Complete with thermal lining and<br />

YKK zippers.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

Rumpl Original Puffy Blanket - Geo $179.99<br />

The Original Puffy Blanket combines<br />

the same technical materials found in<br />

premium sleeping bags and insulated<br />

jackets to keep you cosy indoors and out.<br />

WWW.RUMPL.CO.NZ<br />

local dehy kumera chickpea curry<br />

$16.50<br />

Mildly spiced Indian curry with<br />

spinach & brown rice. Refuel after<br />

a day's adventure! Dehydrated.<br />

Vegan. Home compostable<br />

packaging.<br />

WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ<br />

local dehy hummus $7.00<br />

Roasted Red Pepper & Sundried<br />

Tomato, also available in Beetroot<br />

and Zesty Lemon. Perfect for lunches<br />

on the trail. Dehydrated. Vegan.<br />

Home compostable packaging.<br />

WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ<br />

kiwi camping Boost LED Light with<br />

Power Bank $89.99<br />

Bright LED light with power bank to<br />

illuminate your tent and charge devices<br />

on the go. Features 11 light modes<br />

including SOS signal, built-in magnets<br />

and hanging hook.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

Mr Heater Portable Buddy $339.00<br />

Portable Buddy is a propane gas heater that<br />

is both lightweight and robust heating up to<br />

18m². Featuring a low oxygen and accidental<br />

tip-over safety shut-off.<br />

WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />

70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power<br />

bank $119.00<br />

Built tough for the outdoors and with a<br />

massive battery capacity you can keep all<br />

your devices charged no matter where your<br />

adventure takes you.<br />

WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ<br />

TIRED<br />

LEGS?<br />

TRY OUR NEW<br />

APPLE & BERRY<br />

CRUMBLE<br />

DESSERT.<br />

deepcreek local ipa $3.79<br />

With only 93 calories per can,<br />

this mid-strength, refreshing, low<br />

calorie IPA is the perfect beer for<br />

the active lifestyle!<br />

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ<br />

KEA KIT: Outdoor Survival System<br />

Be fully prepared for your next adventure<br />

with KEA KIT. The compact, modular and<br />

durable survival kit that includes everything<br />

you need & nothing you don’t.<br />

WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM<br />

hydro flask 12L Carry Out Soft<br />

Cooler 249.99<br />

Colder. Longer. Lighter. The<br />

perfect compact size to bring a<br />

little or a lot along for the day.<br />

Keeps items fresh for up to 24<br />

hours.<br />

WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ<br />

backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

<br />

<br />

Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch<br />

Born from <strong>Adventure</strong>: Shackleton Blended<br />

Malt Scotch is based on the spirit supplied to<br />

the 1907 British Antarctic Expedition, expertly<br />

crafted using a selection of the finest Highland<br />

Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available at<br />

various Liquor Retailers .<br />

WWW.GLENGARRYWINES.CO.NZ<br />

JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE<br />

Inspired by the innovative,<br />

everchanging drinks scene,<br />

we instinctively knew how a<br />

drop of Jägermeister and a<br />

backbeat of cold brew coffee<br />

could transform any night. The<br />

enviable result? A brand-new<br />

mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD<br />

BREW COFFEE. A unique<br />

fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s<br />

56 botanicals and intense cold<br />

brew coffee.<br />

WWW.LIQUORLAND.CO.NZ


BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:<br />

The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed for the better<br />

by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They have also<br />

improved the readability of our back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.<br />

For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Quest bike trailers $1495 inc GST<br />

Designed and engineered<br />

in the Southern Alps of New<br />

Zealand, it will take you on<br />

and off the road carrying all<br />

the necessities to have a great<br />

time exploring our beautiful<br />

cycle trails or on that epic<br />

overseas adventure.<br />

WWW.QUESTBIKETRAILERS.COM<br />

aleck 006<br />

Universal Wireless Helmet Audio<br />

& Communication Aleck 006 is the<br />

bluetooth drop-in system that puts<br />

your soundtrack into your snow helmet<br />

and keeps you connected to friends<br />

and family with easy, push-to-talk<br />

communication.<br />

WWW.ALECK.IO<br />

tasty chicken mash $9.49 - $13.99<br />

With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken,<br />

cheese and vegetables.<br />

3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />

Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)<br />

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />

Apple & Berry Crumble $13.19<br />

A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and<br />

berries topped with a delicious gluten free<br />

cookie crumb.<br />

3 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />

INSTANT PASTA $4.89<br />

Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked<br />

pasta.<br />

3.5 Health Stars<br />

Sizes – Family 120g<br />

WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ


FEED YOUR ADDICTION<br />

Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />

development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are<br />

made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole<br />

new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s<br />

online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able<br />

drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are<br />

a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.<br />

Never have a dead phone<br />

again! Because now you can<br />

charge straight from the Sun<br />

with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />

that week-long hike, day at<br />

the beach, or back-up for any<br />

emergency. Check us out at:<br />

www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />

Experts at adventure travel since 2000<br />

We live what we sell!<br />

www.madabouttravel.co.nz<br />

www.adventuresouth.co.nz<br />

Whether you enjoy<br />

cycle trails, road<br />

cycling, mountain<br />

biking or walking,<br />

<strong>Adventure</strong> South NZ<br />

can help you to explore<br />

New Zealand at<br />

your own pace.<br />

Our motto is “Going the<br />

distance” and we pride<br />

ourselves on providing top<br />

quality outdoor and travel<br />

equipment and service<br />

that will go the distance<br />

with you, wherever that<br />

may be.<br />

www.trekntravel.co.nz<br />

Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />

outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />

www.patagonia.co.nz<br />

Stocking an extensive range<br />

of global outdoor adventure<br />

brands for your next big<br />

adventure. See them for travel,<br />

tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />

lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />

www.outfittersstore.nz<br />

Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />

Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />

Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />

www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />

Our Mission<br />

To bring like-minded adventurers together for epic journey’s<br />

fuelled by top-notch coffee. All while supporting the things<br />

we care about and restoring nature.<br />

www.epiccoffee.co.nz<br />

Our very own online store where<br />

you will find hard goods to keep you<br />

equipped for any adventure.<br />

www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz


Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No<br />

matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will<br />

have you covered.<br />

www.hokaoneone.co.nz<br />

PACKRAFT NZ<br />

Unlock your adventure horizon with Packraft New Zealand.<br />

Online supplier of Kokopelli packrafts, accessories and<br />

adventure inspiration. Shop online or contact us for expert<br />

advice for everything packrafting; hike-raft, bike-raft, hunt-raft,<br />

whitewater, fishing, canyoneering, urban and travel.<br />

www.packraftnewzealand.co.nz<br />

Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />

clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />

brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />

www.bivouac.co.nz<br />

Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />

& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />

casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />

www.merrell.co.nz<br />

Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills<br />

or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last<br />

and engineered to perform — proudly designed and<br />

tested in New Zealand since 1973.<br />

www.macpac.co.nz<br />

Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment<br />

specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place<br />

for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor<br />

clothing and more.<br />

www.livingsimply.co.nz<br />

Offering the widest variety,<br />

best tasting, and most<br />

nutrient rich hydration,<br />

energy, and recovery<br />

products on the market.<br />

www.guenergy.co.nz<br />

Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />

www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />

Jetboil builds super-dependable<br />

backpacking stoves and camping<br />

systems that pack light,<br />

set up quick, and achieve<br />

rapid boils in minutes.<br />

www.jetboilnz.co.nz<br />

Supplying tents and<br />

camping gear to Kiwis<br />

for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />

Camping are proud to<br />

be recognised as one of<br />

the most trusted outdoor<br />

brands in New Zealand.<br />

www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />

With stores in Clyde and<br />

Cromwell, Bike it Now! is<br />

your access point to the<br />

Central Otago Bike trials: T<br />

> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />

> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />

> Roxbourgh Gorge<br />

and more...<br />

www.bikeitnow.co.nz<br />

Excellent quality Outdoor<br />

Gear at prices that can't<br />

be beaten. End of lines.<br />

Ex Demos. Samples. Last<br />

season. Bearpaw. Garneau.<br />

Ahnu. Superfeet.<br />

www.adventureoutlet.co.nz


t r a v e l<br />

FIJI<br />

DESTINATION ADVENTURE<br />

Fiji has for centuries been the<br />

quintessential South Pacific tourist<br />

destination for beaches and cocktails<br />

by the pool. Sure, Fiji has all that, but<br />

there is so much more; with such a<br />

unique position in the South Pacific<br />

and an array of beaches, crystal<br />

shallow water, vast oceans, rivers and<br />

mountains. Fiji has everything to offer<br />

those looking for an island adventure.<br />

76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Exploring an isolated cave, Fiji


Clockwise from top left: Surfing Cloudbreak, one of the many spots to surf in Fiji / Mount Tomaniivi Summit (aka Mt. Victoria) - Fiji's highest<br />

mountain - on the Cross-Island hike with Talanoa Treks. / Sigatoka Sand Dunes Sunset<br />

Fishing<br />

With Fiji having some of the most<br />

incredible marine life globally, Fishing<br />

is slowly becoming a popular sport in<br />

the island nation. With such a dense<br />

underwater eco-system, the oceans<br />

of Fiji offer everything from Tuna and<br />

Marlin to Wahoo, Walu and Mahi Mahi,<br />

there’s plenty to catch that will challenge<br />

even the most seasoned fisherman.<br />

Although Fiji’s tropical waters house<br />

fish throughout the year, some types<br />

are more plentiful at certain times than<br />

others. If you’re looking to catch Mahi<br />

Mahi, you can do so year-round, but<br />

you’ll find them in abundance from<br />

December through to February and<br />

again July through to August. Giant<br />

Trevally flock Fiji’s waters around<br />

February through to April, Wahoo from<br />

July through to August, Blue Marlin<br />

February through to March and Yellowfin<br />

Tuna making a popular appearance from<br />

March to April<br />

On Namotu, Big Game Fishing is<br />

something not to miss. While people<br />

generally come for the surf, they can’t<br />

help but take some time out to try their<br />

hand at fishing and have a freshly<br />

caught fish for dinner when they return.<br />

Half Cast Charters, operated through<br />

Volivoli Beach Resort offers some of<br />

Fiji’s best Big Game Fishing on The<br />

Bligh waters. The waters between the<br />

islands of Viti Levu where the resort<br />

is located, and Vanua Levu combined<br />

with depth and reef structure allows for<br />

amazing sports and game fishing. It’s<br />

hard to resist the chance to relax on the<br />

open waters with a cold one as you wait<br />

for a bite.<br />

Dive into happiness<br />

Dive into some of the world’s most<br />

beautiful and colourful network of 10359<br />

square kilometres of coral reef, including<br />

the world-famous Great Astrolabe Reef.<br />

With more than 1000 species of fish<br />

and several hundred sorts of coral and<br />

sponges, Fiji offers an abundance of<br />

unique diving snorkelling experiences.<br />

You can even get up close and personal<br />

with some of the oceans friendly giants<br />

if you go at the right time of year – you<br />

can swim with Manta Rays or Hawksbill<br />

Turtles.<br />

Located between the second and third<br />

largest islands of Fiji, Vanua Levi and<br />

Taveuni, Rainbow Reef offers a display<br />

of vibrant colours under the water,<br />

provided by the hard and soft corals and<br />

marine life that call the area home.<br />

There are around 230 hard and soft<br />

corals creating a feast for the eyes. With<br />

the fantastical beauty, it’s no wonder that<br />

this is one of the top diving destinations<br />

in the world. Plunging your face beneath<br />

the surface of these warm waters, you’re<br />

bound to forget the world above sea<br />

level for a few breathless moments.<br />

Discover Fiji by foot (or dune buggie)<br />

Fiji isn’t just white sand beaches,<br />

although there are plenty of those<br />

78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Clockwise from top left: Beautiful beaches await / Aerial of the Wainibau waterfall at the end of the Lavena Coastal Walk. Bouma National<br />

Heritage Park, Taveuni / Underwater image of lady freediving and spearfishing near Savasi<br />

too! From stunning waterfalls, lush<br />

tropical rain forests, rugged coastline<br />

and dramatic mountain tops, there’s<br />

so much to explore by foot. There is a<br />

reason why Taveuni is referred to as the<br />

‘Garden Island’ of Fiji—80% of the island<br />

is covered by tropical rainforests, along<br />

with natural rockslides and ancient lava<br />

flow. Then there’s the Sigatoka Sand<br />

Dunes, whose rolling sand dunes are<br />

something straight out of Arabian nights!<br />

Challenge yourself and climb the<br />

highest mountain in Fiji, Mt Tomaniivi<br />

(Mt Victoria). The best way to tackle<br />

the mountain is with Talanoa Treks on<br />

their overnight excursion. Walk through<br />

some magnificent cloud forest to reach<br />

the summit at 1,323m. On a clear day,<br />

you will have some amazing views<br />

across Viti Levu. Be rewarded at the end<br />

with afternoon tea and a dip in the river<br />

before heading back to the coast.<br />

Get yourself on Fiji’s only self-drive<br />

dune buggies on a guided tour with<br />

Terratrek. Discover Fiji’s most beautiful<br />

waterfalls and rainforests or head up into<br />

the mountains for panoramic views with<br />

outlooks on the Pacific Ocean.<br />

Explore the secret spots of Fiji<br />

Ditch the pool side lounge chair and sign<br />

up for an adventure you’ll never forget!<br />

Whether it’s kayaking or rafting on the<br />

Navua River, jet boating up the Sigatoka<br />

River or zip-lining through tropical<br />

rainforests, there are adventures for<br />

everyone of any age.<br />

Described as an ‘underwater cathedral’,<br />

the Sawa-I-Lau Caves in the northern<br />

Yasawa Islands are a must-do when<br />

visiting Fiji. Sculpted by centuries of<br />

wave erosion eating away at limestone,<br />

you’ll be absolutely blown away by the<br />

spectacular natural architecture right in<br />

front of you. Sunlight streams down into<br />

the Pantheon-esque cave – the roof of<br />

the cave soars over 15 metres above<br />

the water. Guides from the local village<br />

are available to take you through an<br />

underwater passage to reach a secret<br />

adjoining chamber – all you’ll need is the<br />

right gear, and a reasonable helping of<br />

courage.<br />

Hang loose on the waves<br />

Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, there<br />

are plenty of waves to catch in Fiji. For<br />

those after leisurely longboard breaks,<br />

head to Natadola Beach on the Coral<br />

Coast. But for those wanting to put their<br />

skills to the test, have a go at what the<br />

locals call ‘Thunder Reef’, Kelly Slater’s<br />

favourite, Cloudbreak the Mamanuca<br />

Islands. If you want to watch the drama<br />

from afar, there are many boats that take<br />

you out to watch the action on the waves<br />

with a cold one in hand. For those<br />

wanting an all-inclusive surf holiday, stay<br />

at Namotu Island Surf Resort , which is<br />

located near many famous breaks and<br />

offer yoga and massages to help you<br />

recover after a big day on the waves.<br />

To find out more visit www.fiji.travel<br />

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//79


t r a v e l<br />

NIUE<br />

LIKE NOWHERE ELSE<br />

The South Pacific island of Niue is one of<br />

the smallest countries in the world, on one<br />

of the largest raised coral atolls on earth<br />

and it prides itself on being ‘special’.<br />

Niue and its people have won numerous<br />

awards for environmental programmes and<br />

sustainability, and it’s uniquely not just for<br />

the tourists. The whole community is on<br />

board and involved with looking after and<br />

maintaining Niue’s unique aspects both<br />

above and below the water.<br />

The absence of surface running water such<br />

as streams and creeks contributes to the<br />

island’s pristine crystal-clear surrounding<br />

ocean, the clarity of which is unforgettable.<br />

With no lagoon or fringing reef, the steep<br />

drop-off is just meters from the land, pelagic<br />

migratory fish such as yellow-fin tuna and<br />

wahoo, which are normally deep-sea fish<br />

are caught no more than two hundred<br />

metres from shore and are in abundance.<br />

I personally have fished all over the South<br />

Pacific and there is nowhere like Niue!<br />

When Captain Cook first visited Niue<br />

he tried to land three times but gave up<br />

because he thought that the natives who<br />

came to greet them were painted in blood.<br />

(The locals in fact had eaten a native red<br />

banana, called the hula-hula.)<br />

Niue island is pristinely clean and those that<br />

do live there take great pride in their island,<br />

and unlike what Captain Cook thought they<br />

could not be more welcoming to visitors.<br />

For such a small atoll there is plenty to do:<br />

When you go to Niue you can swim with<br />

spinner dolphins and see whales close up in<br />

season. It must be the only island that has<br />

an honesty bar. You can visit the smallest<br />

yacht club in the world, catch an Uga<br />

[coconut crab], or snorkel in warm, safe rock<br />

pools teeming with colourful fish.<br />

E<br />

80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


What is unique about Niue as an island<br />

is its isolation and its coral origins that<br />

create a unique coastline. The whole<br />

island is dotted with a myriad of caves,<br />

sheltered rocky coves, chasms and secret<br />

beaches. The Huval Rainforest is home<br />

to stunning indigenous trees and these<br />

have been designated as a Conservation<br />

Area to protect and conserve the island’s<br />

primary rainforest.<br />

One of the most famous chasms, is<br />

the Matapa Chasm, in the village of<br />

Hikutavake. An amazing and safe place<br />

to swim and snorkel, encased by steep<br />

cliffs overhanging a deep long cool pool<br />

and as always full of fish. It is next to the<br />

open ocean but isolated from its currents<br />

by large boulders on the seaward side<br />

creating a natural swimming pool.<br />

Another well-photographed feature of<br />

the island is Talava Arches. A massive<br />

rock archway noted by Captain Cook<br />

in the late 1700’s, it is surrounded by a<br />

network of complex caves. As with most<br />

of Niue, there is good tourist access, but<br />

it is natural, you need to wear good shoes<br />

and stick to the created paths.<br />

Apart from simply exploring Niue, you can<br />

also go kayaking, biking, fishing, diving<br />

(Niue Blue dive company offers PADI<br />

certified dives). Niue is distinct from all<br />

the other South Pacific islands because<br />

there are no beaches as such. But there<br />

are kilometres of coastline to explore.<br />

There is locally available a map that not<br />

only tells you how to get to a range of<br />

amazing caves and chasms but also tells<br />

you what tides are best for exploring each<br />

of them (by my own experience it pays to<br />

do your homework).<br />

Niue is walking the talk on environmental<br />

protection with the creation of the ‘Niue<br />

Nukutuluea Multi-Use Marine Park’. The<br />

Niue Oceanwide project (NOW) has been<br />

a significant part of Niue’s sustainable<br />

development over the last decade. Based<br />

on scientific assessment and thousands<br />

of years of traditional knowledge, Niue<br />

has established 40% of its region as a<br />

‘no-take’ Large Scale Marine Protected<br />

Area (Niue Mona Mahu) which is<br />

significant for a Pacific Island that relies<br />

on fish. More details here about Niue<br />

Marine Park can be found here:<br />

www.niueoceanwide.com<br />

Something new, (but has always been<br />

there) is star gazing, and once again<br />

there is nowhere like Niue. Niue was the<br />

world’s first whole country to become<br />

a ‘Dark Sky Place’, receiving formal<br />

accreditation from the International Dark-<br />

Sky Association (IDA) as an ‘International<br />

Dark Sky Sanctuary’ and ‘International<br />

Dark Sky Community’, covering the whole<br />

of Niue with Dark Sky protection and<br />

deeming it a ‘dark sky nation’.<br />

Niuean’s have a long history of star<br />

navigation and visitors to Niue can view<br />

the spectacle of an unspoilt night sky.<br />

Guided Astro-tours are led by trained<br />

Niuean community members. Niue’s<br />

viewing sites currently used for whalewatching,<br />

are also ideal spots for Dark<br />

Sky viewing. More details here:<br />

www.niueisland.com/darkskynation<br />

The list of what Niue has on offer to<br />

experience and to do is long!<br />

BORDER OPENING / WEEKLY<br />

FLIGHTS FROM NZ:<br />

Niue's border with NZ reopens, and<br />

weekly flights from Auckland commence<br />

from Tuesday 28 June 2022.<br />

JUST 3 ½ HOURS AWAY: Although<br />

Niue is a world apart, the island is just<br />

a 3 ½ hour flight on Air New Zealand<br />

departing each Tuesday morning (but<br />

check online as the day of week could<br />

change).<br />

AVOID THE CROWDS: With a land<br />

area of 260sq. kms there is space for<br />

you here. When out exploring you often<br />

feel like you are the first one to discover<br />

the many secluded coves, caves and<br />

pools.<br />

Niue even uses NZ dollars – and<br />

English is spoken universally.<br />

To find out more visit:<br />

www.niueisland.com<br />

82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Real explorers,<br />

Real Niue.<br />

Niue’s borders reopen 28 June 2022.<br />

Your average traveller won’t be able to tell you where Niue is on a map – which is<br />

why you won’t find the average traveller in Niue. What you will find is the world’s<br />

largest raised coral atoll; unspoilt, majestic and waiting for you to explore.<br />

Start exploring Niue today, www.niueisland.com


t r a v e l<br />

THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI<br />

A WAVE RICH PARADISE<br />

Images by Steve Dickinson<br />

As with most iconic surf destinations, it is only the<br />

perfect days or the outrageous days that find their<br />

way into the media.<br />

French Polynesia is an amazing surf destination<br />

for everyone, even on the not so perfect days.<br />

It is about halfway between South America<br />

and Australia, this wave rich part of French<br />

Polynesia’s most notorious islands chain it known<br />

for its crystal-clear water, crisp clean barrels<br />

and the notorious wave of death, Teahupoo<br />

(actually surprisingly only one person has died<br />

here and that was in 2000). Personally, I have<br />

seen Teahupoo at is worst (best) during Code<br />

Red in 2011, when the waves were so huge and<br />

ferocious that the ocean was closed by the local<br />

council to all water activities (known as Code<br />

Red). However, this was ignored by the big wave<br />

surfers of the region, and I was lucky enough to<br />

be there. In a lifetime of photographing surfing,<br />

I have never seen anything even come close to<br />

the magnitude and power of the waves on that<br />

day. But that was a once in a lifetime event, most<br />

days surfing in Tahiti can simply described as<br />

‘mellow fun’.


Previous Page: Teahupoo at its best<br />

Above: A boat is the best way to reach the breaks in Tahiti<br />

Top Right: They start them young in this neck of the woods<br />

Bottom Right: Tikanui Smith at Ta'apuna<br />

Unlike a lot of surf destinations around<br />

the world French Polynesia's locals are<br />

welcoming and friendly. They love the<br />

fact that you have come to share in their<br />

wave abundance and if treated with the<br />

respect you will make local friends in no<br />

time!<br />

French Polynesia is not one island but<br />

actually 118 islands spread across five<br />

archipelagos. Every island has some<br />

sort of wave at some time of the year.<br />

Access to most of the reef passes<br />

require a boat, however, there are<br />

numerous water taxis that will take you<br />

and even homestays (pensions) where<br />

trips out to the local breaks and a surf<br />

guide are all part of the package.<br />

There are a few breaks around the main<br />

city and as you would expect these do<br />

get more crowded, one great break is<br />

Taa’puna; seeing it close enough to<br />

paddle out too and fairly consistent not<br />

to mention only the five minutes from<br />

Papeete, it gets busy.<br />

Further up the coast there is the black<br />

sand beach break of Papara, which is<br />

good for kids and families.<br />

Continue on that same road (there<br />

is only one) and you will arrive at<br />

Teahupoo, which is a very long paddle<br />

but do-able and can get crazy but<br />

normally only when it gets really big.<br />

If it is big and you really just want to<br />

just look, you can pick up a water taxi<br />

from the Teahupoo marina for an hour<br />

viewing.<br />

Unlike beach breaks, which most of us<br />

are used to riding, most of the waves in<br />

French Polynesia are reef based, which<br />

often means they are shallow and if you<br />

fall you don’t bounce off the sand but<br />

get scratched up by the coral. It worth<br />

spending some time watching the locals<br />

to see how to avoid this.<br />

Another issue not often discussed is<br />

water flow. A lot of the reef-based waves<br />

are in a pass. Where water travels from<br />

in the lagoon out to open water and it<br />

can be a lot more like a river than a rip,<br />

once again keep an eye on the locals to<br />

know where to go and where to sit.<br />

Best Surf Seasons in French<br />

Polynesia<br />

March - June: From March to June,<br />

the southern hemisphere comes alive,<br />

putting up consistent south swells that<br />

create some great surf options.<br />

During winter: Once again there is<br />

consistent swell throughout the whole of<br />

winter right up until October.<br />

Spring: As summer arrives things<br />

start to quieten down a little especially<br />

towards the end of October this is also<br />

the rainy season but it’s still warm and if<br />

you want to hunt around there is always<br />

swell somewhere.<br />

Summer: November to March is<br />

basically their summer and surf is<br />

smaller and less consistent.<br />

The bottom line for surf travel is don’t<br />

always make it about the waves. If<br />

you just focus on just the surf, you will<br />

fail to see what an amazing place any<br />

surf destination can be. The trick is to<br />

love where you are and then add great<br />

surf as the cherry on the cake. French<br />

Polynesia has a huge amount to offer<br />

and great waves for everyone are just a<br />

part of the full experience.<br />

To see what is available visit www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/<br />

86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//87


Cook Islands.<br />

Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022<br />

Float above the world’s bluest blue<br />

OVERWATER HEAVEN


t r a v e l<br />

VANUATU<br />

THE PLACE FOR YOU!<br />

Life is about Moments! There are<br />

moments that makes use laugh, cry or<br />

change our perspective and open our<br />

eyes and hearts.<br />

The moments we remember are those if<br />

consequence and significance – the ones<br />

we file away in the scrapbooks of our<br />

lives. That’s especially true when it comes<br />

to holidays and probably even more so<br />

now.<br />

A visit to Vanuatu holds the promise<br />

of incredible moments to be made,<br />

remembered and shared. It is these<br />

moments that define our experience and<br />

call us back for another stay.<br />

Vanuatu is not a about a simple list of<br />

things to see and do, but more about<br />

how it makes you feel. Its about moments<br />

that connect us to people, places, and<br />

emotions. When you Answer the Call<br />

of Vanuatu, you’ll be swept away in any<br />

number of incredible moments that will<br />

make you feel good.<br />

After all a holiday isn’t meant to be<br />

taken to seriously: its about letting go<br />

and getting ready to leap into your next<br />

adventure.<br />

We know people are still keen to get out<br />

and experience the world in full colour.<br />

Making connections, experiencing<br />

different, treading lightly, but mostly<br />

jumping into another place entirely both<br />

physically and mentally. It is also clear<br />

that smaller is better when it comes to<br />

fellow travellers.<br />

To be honest this is pretty much the<br />

holiday experience in Vanuatu pre all the<br />

challenges of the past few years, so I<br />

guess we are good are it.<br />

Vanuatu is slowing starting the re-opening<br />

process and over 2022 will gradually<br />

reduce the restrictions and requirements<br />

of entry. This will be a gradual process<br />

linked to vaccination targets.<br />

So, what is it about Vanuatu that will<br />

make it a strong contender for your<br />

holiday shopping list as travel gets freer?<br />

90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>


Above: Matava River, Santo - Image by Joel Johnsson


1. Get Back to Your Passions: Whether it<br />

be walking, diving, canyoning, or exploring<br />

volcanos now will be the time to get back<br />

to your passions. I am sure you have a<br />

full bucket list of sites to dive or walks to<br />

traverse can we suggest you make sure<br />

that Vanuatu on your list.<br />

There will be some you know about such<br />

as the President Coolidge wreck dive in<br />

Espiritu Santo, but we offer much more<br />

than that without having your fellow diver<br />

right next to you. The coral reefs and<br />

fish life off Tanna are yet to really be<br />

discovered and Hideaway and Tranquillity<br />

Islands are eagerly waiting to do what they<br />

do best.<br />

The remote Island of Gaua offers a 4-day<br />

hike with local guides to the highest<br />

waterfall in Vanuatu, Siri Falls, after<br />

canoeing across Lake Letus. Oh, and did<br />

we mention that you also stride up Mount<br />

Garet the highest peak on the island and<br />

an active volcano.<br />

2. Off the Grid: Do you feel the need to<br />

lose yourself in an environment where few<br />

people venture? Or to hangout in a no fuss<br />

bungalow on the beach or by the side of<br />

a volcano enjoy the hospitality of a local<br />

family who have looked after the land for<br />

forever?<br />

There is no shortage of off the grid<br />

locations and experiences across Vanuatu.<br />

These special locations offer some of the<br />

most relaxing and freeing experiences<br />

as you simply can’t bring your everyday<br />

habits with you.<br />

Imagine: -<br />

• Spending 4 days at Lonnoc Eco Beach<br />

Above: Gaua - Mbe Solomul River<br />

Insert: Tanna Kastom celebrations<br />

Bungalows set in tropical gardens amidst<br />

blue holes, Champagne Beach, and<br />

Lonnoc Beach right in front of you for<br />

swimming and snorkelling.<br />

• Pele Island and its neighbour Nguna<br />

are in MPA Nguna-Pele Marine Protected<br />

Area. The island are a short boat trip<br />

from mainland Efate which transport you<br />

into the truly beautiful location. There<br />

are plenty of island bungalows to choose<br />

from and your daily activities can be<br />

hiking, hammocking, banana boat safaris,<br />

snorkelling or fishing.<br />

• Perched up in a treehouse amongst<br />

the canopy of a banyan tree surround by<br />

birdsong and looking out to the rumblings<br />

of Mount Yasur, one of the worlds most<br />

accessible volcanos, on Tanna Island is<br />

about as off the grid as you can get. Set in<br />

the middle of a local village experiencing<br />

real island life is part of the journey.<br />

Jungle Oasis Bungalows, Banyan Castle<br />

Bungalows or Tanna Yasur Homestay<br />

Bungalows love sharing their connection to<br />

the land and life living next to a volcano.<br />

3. Connection and Kastom: Kastom<br />

is what holds community, family, and<br />

connection together in Vanuatu. It is<br />

unwritten and unspoken but demonstrated<br />

everyday in how things get done. Kastom<br />

respects the land, the people, and the<br />

community.<br />

How can you experience Kastom as a<br />

visitor? Spend some time in the markets,<br />

attend an event such as the Naghol (land<br />

diving) in Pentecost, talk to the Mama’s<br />

with their skilfully made handicrafts or<br />

watch the kids play fearlessly in the water,<br />

lagoons, and Blue Holes. It is part of life in<br />

Vanuatu so really you don’t need to look it<br />

will be part of what makes you let of your<br />

comfort zone but still feel safe.<br />

4. <strong>Adventure</strong>: <strong>Adventure</strong>, the dictionary<br />

definition is and exciting or remarkable<br />

experience. For some it will be the local<br />

market and the new foods, sounds and<br />

laughter or other pushing themselves<br />

on the hike into the Millennium Cave, or<br />

choosing the option to channel your inner<br />

explorer and walk for 3 days to the volcano<br />

rather than 4WD. <strong>Adventure</strong> has never<br />

been so much fun as it is Vanuatu.<br />

5. Road Not Travelled: If being the only<br />

visitor at a particular time is your idea of<br />

how a trip of discovery should be, staying<br />

with a family in their bungalow, after<br />

catching a light aircraft over the islands,<br />

Vanuatu could keep you travelling for<br />

quite some time. Below are a couple of<br />

suggestions but there really is no shortage<br />

of opportunities.<br />

•Epi Island<br />

•Maskalyne Islands<br />

•Rah and the Rock of Rah<br />

•Moon Cave and Maewo<br />

•Hiking up the little explored volcanos of<br />

Ambrym<br />

For more information check-out www.vanuatu.travel


1.30pm Siri Falls, Gaua<br />

Hiking Diving Culture<br />

Volcanos<br />

Go explore at vanuatu.travel


Boots<br />

Packs<br />

Rainwear<br />

Sleeping Bags<br />

All your tramping & trail essentials!<br />

Same shop & family since 1988.<br />

Fuel your adventure!<br />

Delicious dehydrated meals by Local Dehy<br />

are made in Wānaka by adventurers, for<br />

adventurers. All our meals are 100%<br />

vegan, bursting with flavour and come in<br />

lightweight home-compostable packaging.<br />

Order online today and enjoy memorable<br />

plant-based meals on your next adventure.<br />

www.localdehy.co.nz<br />

LOCAL DEHY<br />

FOOD FOR THE HILLS HILLS<br />

adventure ad 3.indd 1<br />

10/05/2022 3:49:06 PM<br />

S.A Shuttles are a specialists when it comes to Auckland Airport shuttle<br />

services. We pick-up passengers from the Airport and deliver to; hotels,<br />

motels, CBD and the suburbs (door to door). This service is available to<br />

meet every flight arriving into Auckland Airport.<br />

• BOOKED shuttle services to meet flight<br />

• On demand shuttle services for group bookings<br />

• Direct shuttle for individual needs<br />

• Corporate Transfers for Business Client<br />

We also do tours around the North Island | www.southaucklandshuttles.com | bookings@sashuttles.com | 0800 300 033 (Toll free)


<strong>Adventure</strong><br />

MustHaves<br />

Keep powered on any adventure<br />

www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />

Go further for longer on your next adventure with the Quest Bike Trailer.<br />

The Quest Bike Trailer was born out of the stunning mountains of<br />

Arthurs Pass in the South Island of New Zealand and developed to<br />

withstand the roughest of journeys. A true triumph of Kiwi ingenuity and<br />

a proven product to take you further for longer.<br />

www.questbiketrailers.com


The Old Nurses hOme<br />

GuesThOuse<br />

Welcome to The Old Nurses Home Guesthouse<br />

This historic renovated building in Reefton allows you to enjoy the stunning<br />

Victoria Conservation Park with access to outstanding bush walks, historic<br />

mining sites, and withing walking distance to the famous Inangahua River and<br />

some of the best fishing for trout in NZ. White water raft or kayak the exciting<br />

rivers in the area. Reefton offers a perfect base for MTB riders to explore The<br />

Old Ghost Road from Lyell through the ranges to Seddonville on the West Coast.<br />

www.reeftonaccommodation.co.nz<br />

+6437328881<br />

info@reeftonaccommodation.co.nz<br />

“Escape ordinary”<br />

Caring luxury | Local flavour | One of a kind<br />

Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage room available<br />

1191 Pukaki Street, Rotorua<br />

p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz


A digital currency<br />

designed for everyday<br />

payments<br />

qoin.world<br />

Available to download on


Jeep ® Gladiator, engineered from the ground up to be a true 4x4 adventure truck, ready to transport you down<br />

the road or to the far corners of the earth. Learn how Gladiator can expand your boundaries at jeep.co.nz.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!