where actions speak louder than words
NZ $10.90 incl. GST
Available Available from from leading leading retailers: retailers:
Auckland: Auckland: Snowcentre
Taupo: Taupo: Gordons Gordons
Wellington: Gordons Gordons
Canterbury: Gnomes Gnomes
Wanaka: Wanaka: MT Outdoors MT Outdoors
Queenstown: Small Small Planet Planet
Dunedin: Dunedin: Beggs Beggs Ski Shop Ski Shop
Distributed by Outfitters by Outfitters
0800 0800 021 021 732 732
The media sucks!
I clearly remember as a young teenager playing rugby league and
I knew that we had two boys in the team that were over age and
should not be playing. Every win was tainted. What was harder
than knowing that you were not really winning fairly was knowing
that your team, the guys you played for, were not someone you
could be proud of and not a team I wanted to belong too.
I feel the same way now about the media.
The media has always been a bit like that. Historically whatever
sold newspapers, was pushed to the front; not just current news
but outrageous news, twisted headlines, the girl in a bikini on
page three, that sort of approach. Then came along the women's
weekly’s, showing images of movie stars on their day off to get
beer-belly shots, or the no-makeup shots. Those tabloids that
chased Princess Diana, hunting for a gossip shot, (that's a whole
Move to the last few years, the news media has moved more
and more online. As we all have struggled with covid, the media
has not done its reputation any good. Whenever there is an
opportunity to over sensationalise a covid issue they have
leveraged people’s fear and worry to gain clicks – clicks, not to a
news feature based on fact or even entertainment but feeding on
fear and uncertainty just to get clicks.
As we go to print Ruapehu has been making a few rumbling
noises and the media has come out with 'Likelihood of eruption
has certainly increased', ‘Mt Ruapehu tremors highest in nine
years’ or ‘Mt Ruapehu has the strongest tremor in 20 years’
all with underlying rhetoric of the White Island tradegy. One
website, with a misleading heading, pushed doom and disaster
for the winter ski season. Then used a video of a professional
volcanologist discussing the recent activity. If you listen to the
expert, he says there is nothing to worry about, it is a usual cycle
for this time of year, be aware but carry on as normal.
As Adventure Magazine we wrote to the mainstream media and
asked them to stop ramping up a story that had no base in truth
because of the impact it would have on the livelihood of those
who need the mountain to be fully open this year.
Ruapehu has now started to fall out of the media clickbait limelight
(the clicks must have started to fall off) and covid seems to be
less of an issue. So the media has now started to hypothesise
that there will be a massive spike in Covid numbers this winter
and on top of that, we are about to be flooded with the Monkey
Pox. All this just to set off our Covid alarm bell and get us clicking
Scaremongering to create clickbait, to create revenue, is
embarrassing for any of us in the media. It has become its own
nasty pandemic. A pandemic to which there is no vaccine, so I
guess the only cure is awareness. Don’t follow the negative hype;
focus on the fun, the good, the right and the true. Winter is coming
and rather than face it with Covid and Monkey Pox concerns we
should be planning for an amazing winter season. This issue of
Adventure will be low on the effects of Monkey Pox and high on
how much fun winter can be.
Let your concerns be about how often you can get to the
mountain and not led by some clickbait incentive pulling at your
From the staff at Adventure enjoy winter
Steve Dickinson - Editor
your Adventure starts with Us
23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | email@example.com
Image by Alpine Guides Image by Eric Skilling
Image by Zhi Yuen
10//A Winter's Dream
Lake Angelus, Sabine and Speargrass Huts
A little known treasure
34//Suffrage and Growth
An accidental romance
They still have to eat
The art of paying attention
Fiji | Niue | Tahiti | Rarotonga | Vanuatu
62. gear guides
94. active adventure
FOLLOW US ON
JOIN THE CONVERSATION
World Class Indoor Climbing
First visit $25* then free for a week!
Fantastic community, beginners
welcome, boulder classes for all ages
and abilities, inquire now.
* Discounts for youths and own gear
Student Mondays, entry $15
Unit 17, 101-111 Diana Drive,
Wairau Valley, Auckland | 09 278 2363
“Northern Rocks is an indoor bouldering facility, we
foster community, growth and positive experiences for
people of all backgrounds, ages and abilities.”
we ARE skiing
Photo by Neil Kerr.
Fraser McDougall & Sam Smoothy
in the Richardson Mountains,
For over thirty years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned and committed to
providing you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. Gear to keep you dry,
warm and safe either in-bounds, sidecountry or backcountry this season. Ski, board and gear hire plus full
workshop and servicing facilities available this season at our Tower Junction (Christchurch) store.
Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage
BEHIND THE COVER
Nirmal “Nims” Purja is seen on top of Mount Everest in Nepal on
May 15, 2022. Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more
incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer became
the first person to summit three higher 8,000m peaks – Everest,
Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse - in just under nine days and do the
Everest to Lhotse traverse in 26 hours - both without oxygen. For
the full story see page 20.
Photographer by: Pemba Sherpa / Red Bull Content Pool
A tasting team member dropped off a selection of Sexy AF alcohol
free spirit products for a cocktail order. An intriguing product made
from vegetable glycerin (perhaps another name for sugar), some
have been awarded double gold at the World Spirit Competition.
A striking label coupled with catchy names, the Friski whiski,
AperTease, and Amar-oh combo really did taste like a cocktail with
a reasonable mouthfeel for a non alcoholic drink. Promoting sober
curious and mindful drinkers this product has certainly caught
our attention. Mixed with some citrus, this easy going serve was
smooth and delicious.
For an equal parts serve
1 jigger (22.5mls) AperTease @sexyafspirits
1 jigger Friski Whiski
1 jigger Amar-oh
1 jigger freshly squeezed mandarin juice
Juice of half a lime
Shake with ice, double sieve, and garnish with mandarin
Follow @cocktailontherock | www.cocktailontherock.co.nz
Find your AF products at www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz/
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
Mob: 027 577 5014
subscribe at www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000
OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND
NZ Adventure Magazine is published six
times a year by:
Pacific Media Ltd,
Whangaparaoa, New Zealand
Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must
be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope.
Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality
prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility
accepted for submitted material. All work published may be
used on our website. Material in this publication may not be
reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken
all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort
to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a
condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does
not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which
may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or
from the use of information contained herein and the publishers
make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of
the material contained herein.
80,000 followers can't be wrong
JOIN THE CONVERSATION
08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz
A WINTER’S DREAM:
COOL HIKES IN
Words by Adrift.co.nz Images by Zhi Yuen
Just because its winter doesn’t mean
you can’t go out and play. Hiking boots
on and all rugged up in cosy woollen
layers, there’s nothing like a winter’s
day out exploring the great outdoors.
With Tongariro National Park at your
doorstep and the iconic triple peaks
of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt
Ngāuruhoe as your backdrop, head
to Ruapehu to discover a network of
world-class walking and hiking tracks
made for intrepid explorers.
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
"With Tongariro National Park
at your doorstep and the iconic
triple peaks of Mt Ruapehu, Mt
Tongariro and Mt Ngāuruhoe as
your backdrop, head to Ruapehu to
discover a network of world-class
walking and hiking tracks made for
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
When winter arrives, the otherworldly landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
are transformed to something beyond your wildest dreams. Renowned as one of the
best one day hikes in the world, taking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during winter
is a unique wilderness adventure best experienced with a guide. The elements are
in full force with ice, snow, and alpine conditions to reckon with, so it is essential to
go a professional guide. Additional preparation, equipment, specialised navigation,
and high-level backcountry skills are essential to enjoy this winter expedition safely.
Even if you’ve already done the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during the summer months,
it’s another level of adventure during winter so book with a local guide to be able to
rediscover this iconic hike to the fullest.
A favourite with locals, Waitonga Falls is Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfalls
at 39 metres high. With access from Ohakune Mountain Road, this 4 km easy and
well-formed return track offers incredible views of Mt Ruapehu with majestic panorama
from the Rotokawa pools alpine wetland area. The perfect spot to pause, reflect and
take in natural wonders of this UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of geological and
Short, sweet and a must-do for Lord of the Rings fans, the beautiful cascades of
Tawhai Falls is an easy, 20-minute short walk easily accessible from roadside along
State Highway 48 nearby National Park Village. This family friendly walk delivers
gorgeous views from the top of the falls along with an easy to follow track to the
bottom of the falls.
Come sundown, the quick and easy Mounds Walk is a great way to watch the sun go
down as golden hues sweep over this unique landscape. Just a few minutes’ drive
from National Park Village off of State Highway 48, the formed mounds is a stark
reminder of the unique natural environment and geological wonders of NZ’s oldest
Situated in the heart of Tongariro National Park, the Taranaki Falls Track is a 6 km
loop, well-formed track that’s regarded as one of best short walks in the area - even
during the winter months. Traverse dramatic volcanic terrain to the stunning Taranaki
Falls as its alpine waters cascade 20 metres down to picturesque pools. On a clear
day take in the spectacular views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Tongariro as you journey
through alpine shrublands, mountain beech forest and volcanic soils.
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Popular year-round, the stunning Tama Lakes walk is a
great alternative to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing that is
phenomenal to experience during the winter season. This
17.6 km track is an extension of the popular Taranaki
Falls Track full of diverse terrain ranging from undulating
tussock country, alpine lakes, and ancient lava flows.
Regarded as an advanced tramping track, going guided
is definitely the way to go for an unforgettable winter
expedition to the Tama Lakes.
Discover four seasons of incredible hikes and walks at
Terrace Restaurant & Bar Open daily
5 minutes from Whakapapa Ski field
Backpacker to Superior Family Accommodation
On-Site Ski & Snowboard gear hire
Skotel Alpine Resort | SkotelAlpineResort
Ngauruhoe Place | Whakapapa Village, SH 48
www.skotel.co.nz | firstname.lastname@example.org
+64 7 892 3719 | 0800 756 835
FROM DORM BEDS
TO PRIVATE DOUBLE
CLIMBING WALL HALL
OPEN DAILY 9AM-8PM
OPEN DAILY 9AM - 8PM
BUS TO WHAKAPAPA
SKI FIELD AND
MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS
MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS
4 Findlay Street, National Park Park 3948
07 892 2870 www.npbp.co.nz
Tongariro National Park
Sky Waka Hot Deal
2 Nights in a King Studio | Breakfast Daily | 2 x Sightseeing Pass Sky Waka
2 x Mini Golf pass | $50 Food & Beverage Voucher
BYO Bikes & explore our 4 biking trails from National Park Village
Free wifi & parking | From NZD $599
17 Carroll Street, National Park 3948
email@example.com | +64 7 8922993
Ride to your own rhythm to take in the scale and serenity of Ruapehu’s Greater
Magnificent mountain peaks, ancient rainforests, and forgotten worlds await,
with spectacular suspension bridges and viaducts, historic relics and secret
waterfalls to discover.
Home to two Great Rides and options for all abilities, there’s plenty of
two-wheeled adventure to be had in Ruapehu.
ADVENTURE THROUGH TIME AND SPECTACULAR SCENERY ON RUAPEHU’S GREAT RIDES
From the UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of
Tongariro National Park to the waterways and byways of
Whanganui National Park, wind your way through alpine
villages, mountain towns and historic relics to discover
the best of Ruapehu by bike.
Home to the Timber Trail and Mountains to Sea - Ngā
AraTūhono, two of New Zealand’s Great Rides. Ruapehu
offers over 400 km of epic trails of local gems and worldclass
rides to discover.
The Timber Trail
The Timber Trail follows the path of old logging roads,
and the historic bush tramlines through Pureora Forest
Park. A testament to forward thinking environmentalists
who protested against native logging in 1978, this area
is one of the last remaining intact podocarp forests in
New Zealand. Highlights of the trail include spectacular
suspension bridges, giant ancient trees and fascinating
relics from the area’s timber milling history. There’s also
the Ongarue Spiral, an engineering marvel and great
fun to ride over and then down through a tunnel under
the track. The trail is normally ridden over two days with
memorable accommodation available at Piropiro, the
midway point. There are two lodges, a campsite, and
fully serviced glamping here, nestled into a remote bush
setting. Tour operators offer packages with shuttles and
accommodation to make the planning easy.
Ohakune Old Coach Road
The Ohakune Old Coach Road follows the route of the
old dray road between Ohakune and Horopito. This day
ride is full of surprises and incredibly beautiful, taking in
some magnificent railway heritage including two striking
viaducts and a spooky old tunnel. It offers some fantastic
views over the volcanic plateau of Tongariro National
Park, and some spectacular sections regenerating native
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Main image: Spectacular scenery on the Timber Trail
Above top to bottom: Mountain Biking The Marton Sash and Door Trail / Ohakune Old Coach Road
bush. You can ride the trail in both directions as an out
and back, or take a shuttle to ride the trail in a mostly
downhill direction from Horopito back to Ohakune, where
you’ll find plenty of options to enjoy some mountain village
hospitality after your ride.
Mangapurua Track (Bridge to Nowhere)
The Mangapurua Track is a classic back country ride, with
a spectacular finale. The trail starts deep in Ruatiti Valley
with a steady climb over a saddle and into the remote
Mangapurua Valley, a long-abandoned farming settlement
surrounded by bush-clad hills and dramatic bluffs.
The ride and the riveting story that goes along with it end
at the Bridge to Nowhere, a graceful concrete monument
to the settlers’ broken dreams.
Then on down to the Whanganui River. When the ride
is over, your next adventure begins! Load your bikes
onto the back of a jet boat for an invigorating ride out to
Pipiriki. You’ll need to book your transport in advance, and
local tour operators offer packages with shuttles and jet
boat ride.*In or after significant rain, may ride as a grade
4. Check track status on the Official Mountains To Sea
website before riding.
Mountains to Sea - Ngā Ara Tūhono
Ohakune Old Coach Road and the Mangapurua are part
of the Mountains to Sea Ngā Ara Tūhono Great Ride. If
you’re looking for a varied multi-day ride from the top of
Turoa ski field right to the Tasman Sea at Whanganui,
there are a couple of options to choose from, the Classic
Experience, or the Adventure Route, or sections of the
track make great day rides. Have a look at Fishers Track,
Kaiwhakauka and Marton Sah and Door.
For more info to plan your trip visit:
www.visitruapehu.com. You can also download
ride maps from the official websites, Timber Trail and
Mountains to Sea.
NIMS SUMMITS EVEREST, LHOTSE AND KANCHENJUNGA IN JUST UNDER NINE DAYS.
Images and text by Red Bull
Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more
incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer
became the first person to summit three peaks higher
than 8,000m – Everest, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse -
in just under nine days and do the Everest to Lhotse
traverse in 26 hours - both without supplementary
The Nepal-born naturalised British climber is well
known for summitting all 14 of the world's 8,000m
peaks in seven months and he also made history on
January 16, 2021, when the former Gurkha and British
Special Forces operative and his team became the first
mountaineers to summit K2 in winter.
After receiving worldwide acclaim for those feats, Purja
embarked on a new adventure in early May with his
Elite Exped team as they tackled the Himalayan peaks
of Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga.
Purja and his team went from Base Camp to Camp
2 on May 5, and then on May 6 started the push -
with a few hours break at Camp 3 - to the 8,586m
Kanchenjunga peak which they summited at 10.50am
on May 7.
They switched over to the Everest Base Camp on May
10 and departed at 3am on May 11 for Camp 2 where
they acclimatised for two days before heading up to
Camp 3 on May 13 ahead of the final push.
They left the South Col at 11pm on May 14 and, in a
very quick time of just nine hours, they summitted the
world's most famous peak of 8,849m at 8am on May
15 to complete the second leg of the feat.
Lhotse was the final peak and on May 16, the team left
the South Col around 3.30am and reached the 8,516m
summit around 10am with Purja the first to summit
three peaks higher than 8,000m – Everest, Lhotse and
Kanchenjunga - without oxygen in an incredible time of
just eight days, 23 hours and 10 minutes - a new world
The 38-year-old, who took full advantage of this
season's good Everest summit window, revealed: "As I
was focused on guiding and helping our team achieve
their new possible, it was all in a chilled manner. My
mission has always been to inspire people and to
show what human beings are capable of, that's what
gives me the energy and excitement – showing people
that nothing is impossible. I'm trailblazing and I want
to inspire everyone to know they can achieve their
He also did the Everest to Lhotse traverse without
supplementary oxygen in 26 hours to claim another
world record despite getting Khumbu cough before
Kanchenjunga due to low humidity and high-altitude
He added: "I was leading and guiding without oxygen
– I was checking in and making sure everyone was
ok, fed and rested and strong. And for me when I do a
summit push it is from Base Camp to the summit and
then from the summit back to Base Camp. It has to be
authentic – no helicopter lifts back to Base Camp –
unless the summit is void or there's an emergency or
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
FOUR DAYS IN
LAKE ANGELUS, SABINE AND SPEARGRASS HUTS
By Eric Skilling
“Lake Angelus is my favourite place in the world” he
said as we discussed the trip ahead. Okay, he was born
in the area so maybe I could excuse a bit of bias, but
that was a bold claim from someone who has visited
some amazing places all over the globe. Judging by the
number of photos I brought back, maybe he was right.
My biggest encouragement was when he also said he
wasn’t feeling that fit. Time to kick some butt, or so I
thought. Alas, a lot can happen in four days, and nature
would find a way of bringing me humbly back to earth by
doing what nature does.
DAY 1: Lake Angelus. 12km in 6 hours. As so often
happens in NZ, you step out of the car park and head
straight up a hill. In this case a 650metre climb for the
first hour-and-a-half. The upside is there are plenty of
switchbacks, views of Lake Rotoiti, and the forest is full
of the welcoming calls of bellbirds. It wasn’t long before
I was back in the groove and feeling grateful to be out
tramping in such epic country.
The landscape changed abruptly as we left the bush line
and started the poled route along Roberts Ridge. The
track wound its way ahead through alpine scrub before
disappearing into swirling mist. This was late February,
and we were still warm after the climb, so we by-passed
the shelter and kept going until we came across Martin.
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
On top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus valley.
Martin is probably not his real name, but the
name seems to suit him. Martin is the name
we gave to the larger-than-life-sized wooden
model that looms out of the mist with hand
raised. He warned us that the track ahead
was “difficult, rocky and exposed” and “it
was still a long way to the hut!”. He urged
us to TURN BACK! If we were tired or cold.
Dramatic stuff. I gave Martin a cuddle and we
We met a couple returning from Lake Angelus
who told us the sky would clear once we
reached Flagtop at 1650m, and we would get
great views of Julius Summit (1794m). Well,
it didn’t, and we didn’t. But a few hours later
we did emerge out of the cloud and got to
see the full jagged ridge of the Julius Peak,
its multicoloured slopes falling steeply into
the Speargrass River valley. To the northwest
we could just make out what could have been
the Hope Range and Mt Owen.
A few hours later and we were standing on
top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus
valley. This is one of those moments that
is hard to describe. The scene is unique.
Several hundred metres below the two lakes
stand out starkly, their colours ranging from
a deep blue to almost black, edged with
Saying G'day to Martin
Sunrise at Lake Angeles, photographs don’t capture the feeling of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the alpine vegetation,
and the sound of the Hukere stream making its way from the lake.
turquoise and greens. Above them the valley
is ringed by a serrated line of weathered peaks,
with multiple scree slopes reaching down to the
encroaching alpine tussock that surrounds the
Angelus hut itself, stands nicely placed on the edge
of the lake looking very fragile and out of place in
this wild landscape.
Once at the hut there was plenty of time for a swim,
a cup of hot sweet coffee and to share stories and
banter with others in the hut. Lake Angelus seems
to be a mecca for couples. Andrea and Patrick from
Nelson, Beth and Mulock from Dunedin, Gabriela
and Leandro from South America. I had to settle for
my mate Don.
Next day I was up in time to catch the sunrise, but
photographs don’t allow you to share the feeling
of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the
alpine vegetation, and the sound of the Hukere
stream making its way from the lake. When the
sun eventually reached over the peaks to the east,
light spread over the glacial valley, still filled with a
lumpy blanket of swirling cloud. Special. Then the
breeze dropped and the surface of Lake Angelus
became a mirror, creating almost perfect reflections
of the scree slopes and skyline above it.
Day 2: Sabine hut, Lake Rotoroa. 6.8km in 6
hours. Note the warning – expect an average
pace of 1.1km an hour. DOC describes the track as
“steep” in that charming, understated kiwi way.
A perfect day for tramping. We scrambled and
boulder hopped along the ridgeline, with expansive
views from Mt Angelus, the Muntz and Braeburn
ranges, and up Sabine River valley to Mt Franklin
(2340 metres). Our lunch stop was just above
the bushline, overlooking the full length of Lake
Rotoroa and the promise of a refreshing swim.
It was a welcome relief to walk into the cool cover
of the beech trees after spending most of the tramp
walking on rock and gravel with plenty of boulder
hopping. Don’t get me wrong, the panoramas from
the exposed tops are awe-inspiring, but it was bliss
to step onto the bush track, cushioned by layers of
fine beech tree leaves. Piwakaka skipped around
us, and bellbirds greeted us with their inimitable
song. Three hours to go.
An hour later the path had become quite steep. A
couple of wasps had miraculously snuck into my
boots, settled on each of my big toes, and would
occasionally give me a sting if I made any decent
sized downward step.
Then we reached “The Sign”. These large signs
with their contour profiles and “You are Here”
points are rare but usually very welcome. They
impart guidance, direction, hope and anticipation.
Sometimes they lie. This specific one was
colourfully decorated with a profile telling us that we
had an hour to go. That is a lie. Clearly whomever
put up the sign did a “she’ll be right” and put it up at
the wrong end of the trail. Soon afterward the steep
track became even steeper. Handholds became
An hour later the lake looked no closer. By now
another 10 wasps had made their way into my
boots and settled onto a toe each. Almost every
foot-plant was announced with a stab of pain to
each toe. I was doing mini traverses wherever
possible. Don meanwhile, seemed to be enjoying
himself as he waited every 100m or so for me to
catch up. I might be better at going uphill, but his
forte was the downhills.
Top: Andrea and Patrick nearing the last ridge
Above: 12 Heading along Cedric Ridge with
Mt Franklin in the distance
We stopped and I took of my boots and socks and rearranged
everything. I enjoyed about 100 metres of relative comfort before the
wasps repositioned themselves on my toes.
Another hour later I was considering taking my boots off and walking
bare foot when I heard voices echoing off the lake. We must be
close. Going bootless on this terrain was a dumb idea so I turned and
scrambled down backwards. The humiliation was complete.
Ten minutes later I hobbled up to the hut and took off my boots, amazed
that they had not melted by the flames from my blazing toes. A painful
lesson in cutting toenails just before leaving on these adventures.
Heading to Speargrass hut
Day 3 and 4: Speargrass Hut and Mt Robert car park.
18Km 9 hours. Don and I had set aside two days to
complete the round trip from Sabine to the car park. It
turned out to be a brilliant ideas for so many reasons.
Not least were the weather gods continuing to smile down
on us. It also turned a single tough day into one moderate
and then another easy day to finish the trip.
Leaflet (https://leafletjs.com) | NZ Topo Map (/) images sourced from LINZ (https://www.linz.govt.nz/) - Crown Copyright Reserved
Top to bottom: Speargrass hut
The route we took
Can't go past Backcountry Cuisine and Jetboil
Starting alongside the lake the track veers into the lush
beech forest which is traversed by small streams and a
couple of bridged rivers. The forest floor around us was
covered in thick layers of lichen, ferns and bright green
mosses. The clear streams made it mostly a waste of time
We also attracted the attention of some of the most
confident piwakawaka and robins you will meet. During
a stop a robin brazenly hopped down onto our packs,
skipped down to our boots and then hopped onto our legs
and picked seeds off our gaiters and socks. Priceless.
Speargrass Hut is another of the many stunningly-well
placed wilderness huts we have the freedom to visit.
Nestled in a couple of hectares of sweeping speargrass
and tussock, shielded on three sides by massive ridges
including Julius Peak, and facing down the heavily
forested river valley. Relatively new, the hut is also double
glazed and more importantly, empty of people.
The perfect place to reflect and enjoy a final night away
Midday next day, after a cleansing dip into Lake Rotoiti,
and an equally cleansing ale at St Arnaud, we found
ourselves planning a return trip up Sabine Valley to the
Thanks to Don for a choosing a stunning itinerary. And to
the folk managing those predator traps.
I chose to use Backcountry Cuisine, Jetboil, Keen and
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Everything we make is designed by
climbers, for climbers. Each piece is
crafted by peak and crag to give you
Everything we make is designed by climbers,
absolute protection, comfort and mobility
for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak
when and you crag really to give need you absolute it. protection,
comfort and mobility when you really need it.
Available now from Rab specialist stores throughout NZ.
Hunting And Fishing New Zealand stores nationwide. Auckland: Living Simply, Waikato: Trek N Travel, Equip Outdoors,
Taupo: Outdoor Attitude, Wellington: Dwights Outdoors, Motueka: Coppins Outdoors,
Nelson: PackGearGo, Kaikoura: Coastal Sports, Christchurch: Complete Outdoors, Greymouth: Colls Sports,
Hokitika: Wild Outdoorsman, Wanaka: MT Outdoors, Queenstown: Small Planet.
Online: huntingandfishing.co.nz, dwights.co.nz, outdooraction.co.nz, mtoutdoors.co.nz, smallplanetsports.com,
equipoutdoors.co.nz, gearshop.co.nz, outfittersstore.nz
Distributed by Outfitters 0800021732 www.outfitters.net.nz
A LITTLE KNOWN TREASURE
Words and images by Pol Tarrés Martrat
When this story landed on our desk, I had to admit
that I had no idea where Georgia (the country) was
located, so I did a wee Google search. Turns out
that Georgia is at intersection between Eastern
Europe and Western Asia, bound on the west by
the Black Sea and to the north and east by Russia
and on its southern border lies Turkey, Armenia and
Georgia small and mountainous, covering an area
of only 67.900 km2. The Likhi Range divides the
country into eastern and western halves whereas
the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range forms the
northern border and the Lesser Caucasus Mountains
run along the southern reaches, so you can see it
would be a great place for some snow sports.
Pol Tarrés Martrat shares his experiences visiting
this little known treasure that is Georgia from his
home base in Spain.
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
The remote untouched beauty that is Georgia
Top: Playing around on the catski
Left to right: Goderdzi resort / Cat team / Lone lines amongst the pines
Destination Goderdzi: Southern Georgia
Goderdzi Ski Resort is situated at an
elevation of 1,724m rising to 2,364m, there
are over 8km of slopes available and you
can find endless freeride lines outside of
the slopes. It had been snowing all night
and found plenty of pow, the snow didn’t
disappoint. We did a few runs, taking
pictures and videos and enjoying the
unbelieveable views of Goderdzi Valley.
After sunset we skied to the front door of
the hotel and headed into the spa for a bit of
We spent the next two days playing around on the catski. The
terrain, although not very steep, was really fun as the catski could
take you almost anywhere and we spent the day doing runs in
the middle of the small houses and forest and some open areas
where you can play around doing fast, long turns.
Tuesday was a bluebird day with no wind and you could see for
miles. The snow conditions were great and you could choose so
many different lines. The conditions mean there is almost no risk
of avalanche so it was like one big playground. We only had a
meeting point with the catski at the end of the slope and the rest
you were free to chose your line. We enjoyed every second of it.
The following day the fog and snow arrived so we chose the forest
to ski as it provided more visibility. After a quick lunch we went
back to the top for a “sunset mission.” It’s amazing how the views
can change with a colourful sunset. In this area there are a lot
of small wood cabins that farmers use during the summer which
makes for breathtaking scenery with all the small huts covered in
30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
The gondola dwarfed by its surroundings... Goderdzi Ski Resort
Top: All alone in Mestia / Far right: Even the overcast days are great
Left to right: Time to relax / The views are incredible / Solitude and snow
Destination Mestia: Northern Georgia - Greater Caucasus
Our destination was Tetnuldi Ski Resort and things here were
really different. The resort was much bigger, the runs steeper
and mountains higher. With that came more people, however
we still felt like we had the mountain to ourselves. The first
day we woke to a cloudy sky so caught the lift to the top of
the resort, above the cloud layer. Magnificent views of Mount
Tetnuldi (4,858m) and Mount Ushba (4,737m) greeted us, it
We went with some guides from Vagabond Adventures, they
knew the terrain as this is their home resort, and with a higher
risk of avalanche off-piste and a much larger area to ski it
enabled us to ski freely without fear of getting lost. We spent
the day skiing and enjoying the Georgian pow.
The next day we went to Hatsvali Ski Resort where we did
a few runs through the slopes with astonishing views of the
Ushba Mountains before putting on skins and doing some ski
touring. As time was limited, it was a short one but enough to
know the area has a lot of potential and thousands of places to
explore amongst the big mountains.
Easy, cheap and fun.
After a week in Georgia, we can say that the
country exceeded our expectations, not only snow
wise. We loved the food, we tried all types of
khachapouris (a traditional Georgian dish of filled
bread with cheese, meat or beans.) We also took
part in a Khinkali masterclass and loved it, making
and eating the traditional dumplings.
The people were super charming, and we were
invited to try their homemade wine and even the
local vodka. Even though they didn’t speak a lot of
Engilsh (or Spanish in our case), we were always
received with a big smile.
In conclusion it was an amazing trip to a country
that is a hidden gem, and we know for sure we
will be back again next year. It has so much to
offer; tons of snow, delicious food, lovely people,
astonishing landscapes, adventurous terrain and a
32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Tips (and 2 feet) dipped well-into the deep end above Parque Nacional Lanin, Patagonia.
SUFFRAGE AND GROWTH
AN ACCIDENTAL ROMANCE
By Paul Fadden
I learned to ski because I needed the
A weird tour through the warped brothels of
Italian immigration had just stripped me of
a life’s savings, direction, and most worldly
possessions. So when I answered a call
promising winter employment high atop
the Chilean Andes, I asked no questions. I
simply said, “Si.”
Raise the stakes; raise the allure, and so it
goes until somebody’s ‘bust’. In my case,
to ‘bust’ meant a fate worse than drowning
by dirty toilet bowl. And I was tip-toeing
the porcelain edge, I knew it. Lumped atop
a kitchen table was a cluster of rumpled
notes, random coins, a wrinkled bank slip
and pocket lint, enough--to the Peso—for
one last roll of the dice.
What followed was a sixty-hour odyssey
aboard two turbulent airplanes and two
asthmatic buses, ending in regurgitation at
the wheel wells of a rusty flatbed driven
by one, Señor Nelson Rubilar Flores—
‘Nelson’ for short.
My broad-faced Chilean patron smiled
widely beneath dancing eyes. He spoke
not a lick of English save a single,
intensely stressed declaration: ‘Eetz-Eem-
Por-Tant.’ Ah Nelson, how right you are.
He gripped me in brotherhood and chucked my
pack over the tailgate. I climbed in and raised a
thumb. Nelson punched it for Maipo.
San Jose de Maipo in Provincia de Cordillera
is Cabernet country, where the “roads” twist
like vines and “driving” is aerobic. For sixty-six
invigorating kilometers, Nelson roared ahead
with reckless abandon. On the sixty-seventh,
he crushed the brake like beer can and I laid
eyes on my fate, the grand-daddy of Chilean ski
culture and industry; Lagunillas.
Centro de Esqui Lagunillas is the country’s
pioneer ski area. Its low altitude and roots
attitude paradoxically pin it down and prop it
up. Big June snow meant an early start to the
season and a dire need for staff. In me, Nelson
saw cheap labor plus nothing to lose, and he
Promise of income accompanied by
accommodation had already edged-out concern
for creature comforts or inalienable human
rights. But where, I could not help but wonder,
was that accommodation? Save for a series of
60 yr-old wooden platter lifts and a few sagging
shanties, the base appeared to be featureless.
I would have asked, but Nelson had the answer
in the form of a shovel planted at my feet.
“La Francesca,” he said, directing a reverent
A building nested a few hundred meters higher
on the southern face. I hadn’t noticed because
only its roof peeked above the snowpack.
Nelson was carving a trail towards it and
indicating, irritably, that I lend a hand. Cold
but sweating, we excavated around clapboard
walls, Plexiglas windows and doors too small
for their frame. Inside, abandoned armies of
crumpled wrappers, unwashed dishes and
rotting food covered every surface. A mouse
dropping carpet sullied an otherwise bare
concrete floor. Heat was by wood fire, water
needed boiling, and electricity ran only when
lifts did. La Francesca, my fortress of solitude.
Back at the carpark I learned there was a
ski school and equipment rental among the
sagging shacks. It was by working there that
I would earn my luxurious accommodation.
Approaching the shop required awkward hops
through high, white dunes, and once there
Nelson forced its door with his shoulder. Inside,
and strewn everywhere, laid a disarray of
skis. In mismatched pairs old or new, large or
small, the floor was a felled forest of yellowed
planks. This plus the La Francesca had to be
rock bottom, surely, but the boot room proved
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
A dynamic demonstration of the benefits to be found beyond 'the known'. photo: P.M.Fadden
The author; finding footing atop the Catalunya Pyrenees and (inset) reveling in ducky-pow
among the Japan Alps." photo: P.M.Fadden
A mule, happily chewing hay, reined
over a bale someone—maybe Nelson—
had thoughtfully placed in a corner. (The
room was a heated shelter after all, and
much snow had fallen.) The contented
beast cast me an eye that implied I was
the actual ass. And I sighed to sense the
legitimacy of the point.
Meanwhile, Nelson scooped a pair of
158 Vokl Supersports from the melee (I
am 191cm) hoisting the skis, he purred
“Classes, Plata,” and “Eetz-Eem-Por-
‘Plata’ signifies money, like ‘bucks’
denotes cash, and my employer knew
full-well my need. Beaming, Nelson
dodged the mule to retrieve a pair of
shit-kicker Langes. And that rounded-out
The assignment: resuscitate the shop
then work as its instructor, with no ski
The following months are etched in
my bones as much as memory. Boil
water, chop wood, ski-train with Nelson,
shovel; feed the mule, sort gear, and
share the romance of sliding downhill
with the citizens of Santiago. Nelson’s
bread and butter were those city folk.
A foreigner-lead class was incentive to
buy. That I was a learner myself seemed
beside the point.
At first, the incessant pace of each day
slowed my recognition of the seed which
was growing. By the time I did, it was
there to stay. A surprise longing to ski
had overgrown the shock of being made
to. A dormant thing awoke and it defied
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
all physical laws save gravity. Whether
blistering sun or bitter cold, I skied. I
hiked last lines while sun set. The ‘Plata’
no longer mattered.
Then a big daddy storm came to call.
Vicious wind coupled by low visibility
closed Lagunillas for three days, sending
Nelson (and the mule) scurrying to the
valley below. I was forgotten, lightless
and isolated within La Francesca. But
rather than shiver, I made a date with
said storm. Battening all hatches, and
touching wood for an absent beacon,
I set a boot pack into void. It was a
scenario I’d never imagined for myself
yet somehow felt drawn to all the same;
navigating by inner compass, seeking to
carve my own line leading home.
Years have passed, yet skiing remains
the source. For it I’ve risked frostbite,
suffered crooks, lied to bosses, bailed
on girlfriends, crashed in bathtubs, and
accepted without reservation that this,
to me, is a lifelong romance, simply
because Eetz-Eem-Por-Tant. Sometimes
that’s all there is to say.
Low Prices Everyday
Free NZ Shipping on
orders over $150 for
Members Earn Equip+
shop online or instore
62 Killarney Road,
P: 0800 22 67 68
YOUR SNOW HELMET CAN BE YOUR ON-MOUNTAIN DISCO TOO
The year is 2022, and by now most people have heeded the “gospel”
of wearing a great helmet. We know quality helmets, with the latest
safety technology (like MIPS), produced by a trusted helmet brand are
keeping people safe and stylish all over the mountain. Their value isn’t
news, but what may be surprising is finding out that most adult helmets
have spaces to install audio drop-ins, and installation is easy!
Over 20 helmet brands offer audio-ready compatibility allowing skiers
and snowboarders to easily add a wireless system. These systems all
provide Bluetooth audio and phone call capability with glove friendly
controls. Phone calls on the mountain? Yes! The ear pad itself works as
a wind noise dampener (or “DeadCat” in microphone parlance) so calls
can be made on the blusteriest day.
Installation is simple… just open each ear pad up and remove the
pre-cut foam inserts. Not every helmet has clearly marked access so
play around until you get it open. Smith provides a nice convenient
zipper to access the internals. Some models, like the Oakley Mod 5,
need extra foam removed so don’t be afraid to rip (or cut) out more to
accommodate your audio system. Drop your audio kit in and enjoy the
day with music in your lid!
Search audio ready helmet
brands & models using this
QR code link:
One audio kit sits above the rest in both audio performance and
communication. The ALECK 006 is the wireless audio system that
brings premium sound, group communication and a GPS enabled
friend finder. The Aleck 006 puts your playlist at your fingertips, keeps
your squad in touch on storm days, and makes meeting up for aprés
Pick up the ALECK 006 now at Torpedo 7 , Amazon.com.au or Aleck.io
TURN ANY HELMET INTO AN AUDIO MARVEL
THEY STILL HAVE TO EAT
By Steve Dickinson
Despite our best intentions, when
the air gets chilly, we tend to back
off. Fish are a cold-blooded creature,
they appreciate temperature, but
they do not react to it as extremely
as we do, however, like many
people, fish tend to be less active
in the cold. As cold-blooded
creatures, their metabolism dips
when temperatures take a dive. But
they still have to eat, maybe a little
less but if they eat, then they can be
caught – simple.
We spoke to a range of cold weather
experts; fishermen, search and
rescue, alpine guides, and ski patrol
and this is their input. The simple key
to enjoying the cold is staying warm.
That is it, simple.
If it gets cold and you want to stay
warm the first rule, is you need to
stay dry. Fishing and keeping dry
may not be as easy as it sounds.
The simplest solution is to keep a
dry towel to dry your hands with after
catching a fish or drying your legs
with when launching a boat. The
smallest hole in your waders will let
in icy water and once your clothes
are wet, especially if they are not
wool, you are going to get cold quick,
so no leaks. In winter on our boat I
keep a dry towel in a dry bag just for
towelling off, a second towel to keep
drying your hands after catching fish.
Second must do; is keeping your
head warm. We lose 80% of our
body heat via your head. You need a
woollen beanie, balaclava, or buff. Of
late I have been using a buff in that
they are versatile, if you get too hot
you can pull it down to your neck, if it
gets real cold, you can use it pulling
up over your ears and head, they
just give you more options. But buy
a good one there are loads of cheap
synthetic ones on the market that
are next too useless. A beanie and
a buff can also be a good combo if
it is really chilly. Word of advice, if
you pull the buff up over your neck
then over your mouth, your breath
will cause condensation, which make
the buff wet, remember keeping dry
is the key.
After making sure your head is
warm next you need to look after
your other extremities. Starting from
the ground up, in waders make
sure you have woollen socks, once
again do not buy cheap. Even if
the product says merino, not all
merino is made equal. You tend to
get what you pay for. Merion is light
weight, breathable, merino manages
moisture by a process called wicking
– in that it will pull moisture away
from your body which if chilled with
make you cold. Merino is also antibacterial
and odour resistance.
Never use synthetic or worse cotton,
as it is quick to suck up water, slow
to dry and should never be worn
next to your skin. If like me you find
wool itchy, there are now a range of
synthetic /wool blends and silk/wool
blends which are easy to wear. Wool
dries quickly and will retain some
heat if it gets wet and has great
thermal qualities – just ask sheep.
Your other extremities are your
hands, ears, and nose. There are
a range of fingerless gloves on the
market which are great for fishing. A
well-known guide showed me a trick
once where he had an additional pair
of extra-large woollen gloves that he
wore over his fingerless gloves for
travelling. For ears and nose they
can be looked after by your buff.
There are a range of commercial
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
hand warmers, they come in an array
of sizes, and some are reusable. You
either snap or mix them which causes a
chemical reaction, and they warm up. Do
not put them in your gloves – rather put
them in a pocket so that if your gloves do
get wet you can warm your hands up. I
have heard of people putting them in their
socks in their waders but really if it is that
cold maybe stay home. To locate these if
you cannot find in your local fishing store
look to any ski outlet. Reusable ones
are more expensive but with repeat use
become a far better deal.
The art of layering. There is an art to
layering. Key rule, no cotton, only wool,
some fleece, and microfleece. Over
the last ten years there has been an
explosion of quality layering products.
What used to be just an itchy thermal
layer and a woolly jumper that has all
changed. There are now a full range of
base layers, mid layers, and top layers. It
is simple- when it is cold put more on.
Fishing, unlike say tramping where you
are constantly moving you need to be
warm from the get-go. This includes
fleece-based legging or pants. I have
two different thickness fleeces legging
I wear under my waders depending on
how cold it is going to be. Top, I wear
a RAB micro fleece, super lightweight,
short sleeved, this is my go too product
winter and summer. Mid layer long sleeve
merino and if it is going to be cold, I add
another layer on top, but making sure
there is heaps of movement (not too tight
for the last layer) – then jacket on top of
that. An obvious observation is that you
can always remove a layer, you cannot
always add one. You do not want to be
too hot so that you sweat, as sweat can
chill off and make you colder. You want
to be comfortably warm, and layering is a
way to maintain that temperature control.
When its cold drink plenty of water. Hot
tea and coffee might seem a good idea,
but you will need to pee, which mean
exposure to the cold! A good option is hot
water, or hot chocolate. What is a real
‘no no’ is alcohol in any form as it lowers
your core body temperature (even if it
feels warm to begin with) – save that wee
dram till you get back home and make it
part of the boasting process, my winter
suggestion is Fireballs.
New Zealand is renowned for having
four seasons in one day so be prepared
– check the forecast but do not 100%
believe it if it says all is good, be prepared
for the worst.
In winter it pays to fish with a friend
should you take a tumble into the water
someone is there to help out and in the
worst-case scenario, go for help or at
least be able to see the first signs of
When we think of hypothermia, we
think about people trapped on mountain
side in a storm. That is not the case.
Hypothermia can easily occur when you
are exposed to cold air, water, wind, or
rain. Your body temperature can drop to
a dangerously low level at temperatures
of only 10° or higher in wet and windy
weather, or if you are in 16° to 21° of
water you are at risk of hypothermia.
It can happen easily, I once got
hypothermia waiting for a bus in winter.
Symptoms and signs
•person feels cold to touch and may be
•tiredness – person may fall behind when
•clumsy, uncoordinated, may fall over and
•changes in mood with irritability, irrational
•person may resist help.
•slow to respond to questions.
•shivering may decrease and stop – this
is a critical sign.
•loss of consciousness
•pale or blueish skin colour
What to do?
The best treatment for hypothermia
is prevention. But if you suspect
hypothermia, the aim of helping the
person is to stop further heat loss and
warm the patient slowly.
•Provide immediate shelter out of the
wind and dry clothing.
•If fully conscious, give warm drinks,
lollies, chocolate, etc.
•If isolated, body contact to reduce heat
loss and slowly warm – e.g. huddle
around the patient in a sleeping bag.
Winter fishing is all about comfort and
safety. The two should go hand in hand.
In most cases there should be little risk
as long as people are sensible and
aware. In winter it pays not to go as far
from your safety access – your vehicle,
accommodation etc. However if you are
going further you need to make sure
you are prepared. Prepare for the cold,
prepare for the worst and you will be
comfortable, safe, and prepared for winter
44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Photographer: Andrew Chad,
Athlete: Corey Seemann,
Location: Jackson, WY, United States
About the shot: If you ever want to frustrate
yourself, try shooting skiing at night with a
flash. We had an idea of what may happen if
everything went in our favour, but that's the
beauty of photography, it usually doesn't. So,
when this image showed up on the back of the
camera at the end of a week-long ski trip, we
called it a night. Because sometimes a little bit
of dumb luck is all you need. The image is fairly
simple when it's broken down. A dark room,
single flash and a white bounce sheet are the
basic concepts here. Tracking the subject though
the dark was a little tricky, but thank god for
modeling lights. But what makes it special to me
is the fact that Corey was wearing his daylight
lenses in the middle of the night. The coloured
lenses and the reflection of the snow in them is
the real treat of the image.
Photographer Credit: Red Bull Illume 2021
There are moments in a Mackenzie
winter that stand out and define
the season: breathing in crisp
alpine air, the contrast of snowy
white mountains against bright blue
skies, local eateries with roaring
fires and hearty tucker – the perfect
way to warm up with good cheer
after a day exploring an alpine
wonderland. The comfort of steam
rising from hot pools while you
admire the starry skies followed by
a perfect sleep in blissful silence
after a busy day.
So head outdoors and come play
in our expansive mountain-ringed
plateau – the legendary Mackenzie!
48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
- image by Mount Cook Heliski.
Mt Dobson - Image by Jeremy Lyttle
THREE SKI FIELDS
The Mackenzie Region has three ski fields, all situated within an
easy drive of each other. These family-owned fields offer laid back
uncrowded skiing and boarding with outstanding views of the
lakes and mountains.
‘Dobbo’ as it’s known to locals, is located between Fairlie and
Lake Tekapo. Famous for all-day sun, large learners area and
regular snowfalls on the peaks. Go up past the groomed trails
to try some off-piste on the smooth powder with views of lakes
Tekapo & Pūkaki. Warming up at the historic Silverstream Hotel
Pub afterwards is a must. A long standing establishment since
1877, the pub offers craft beer, delicious meals, and live bands.
Celebrate your day on the slopes in true rural style with a visit to
Roundhill Ski Area
Close to Lake Tekapo, Roundhill is one of the country’s largest ski
resorts at a whopping 500 hectares. The access road is one of
the safest (no scary drop offs), and the carpark is adjacent to the
learners area where you’ll often find adults cooking on the BBQ
while the kids learn the basics. The more adventurous skier will
love Australasia’s biggest vertical drop (783m). Located at the top
of the T-bar is the precious von Brown Hut, a licensed café with
some of the best views in the world. Try their speciality drinks 'The
Jumping Goat' and the 'B&B Coffee'.
Roundhill Ski Area - Image by Blackbird Media
Ōhau Snow Fields
Not far from Twizel is Ōhau Snow Fields. This is classic Kiwi
skiing with the lodge offering old school charm with roaring
log fire, group-style dining, and a cosy bar. All ski abilities are
catered for, and there is some adventurous terrain near the top.
Stay the night at the lodge, or simply drive over from your Twizel
accommodation for a day on the slopes. The views of Lake Ōhau
have to be seen to believed!
Ōhau Snow Field - Image supplied
50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Snow shoeing with Alpine Recreation
SKI THE TASMAN GLACIER
The Haupapa/Tasman Glacier is New Zealand’s largest
glacier, and you can ski on top of it! And best of all, you
needn’t be a hardcore professional, this is for intermediate
level skiers. The runs are blue/green and range from 8-10km.
After getting dropped off by helicopter or skiplane you
find yourself on top of the glacier with mountains in every
direction, including the mighty Aoraki/Mount Cook. The
stillness up there is profound, no rustling leaves or singing
birds – just silence and the occasional avalanche far away
(don’t worry, it’s safe on the glacier). Explore ice caves and
incredible ice formations at a relaxed pace with your guide.
This is one bucket-list item that’s truly achievable by almost
After some adventure? You must be, you’re currently reading
Adventure Magazine! Look no further than heli-ski, this is truly
the stuff that puts you ‘above and beyond’. Charter a flight for
a multi-day skiing adventure. Soar above the vibrant turquoise
lakes, glaciers, and icebergs to spend your day amongst
lofty mountain peaks, skiing virgin snow and revelling in the
grandeur of it all.
With the arrival of the winter snows the Southern Alps are
transformed from tussock lands into an extensive playground
for snowshoeing. Alpine Recreation offer 2-5 day trips from
their Rex Simpson Hut at Lake Tekapo. Situated in the Kahui
Kaupeka Conservation Park, part of the Two Thumb Range,
you can enjoy views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and the Main
Divide. It’s wonderful to be exploring the snowy valleys, icecovered
streams, and relax in the evening at the hut nicely
warmed by a logburner. Three days is the recommended trip
length, but even if you just have a weekend to spare you’ll still
get a refreshing break from the normal in a winter wonderland.
Mueller Hut - Image by Siller Francisco
WALKING TRAILS IN WINTER
A winter walk is a great way to boost energy and wake up your
immune system to stave off any winter colds! The fresh air and
incredible snowy mountain views are sure to feed your soul while
you get some exercise.
To get right amongst the mountains you can’t beat hiking up to
Mueller Hut in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. Dubbed the
stairway to heaven, the Sealy Tarns Track in the Aoraki/Mount
Cook National Park is a must for the fit adventurer. 2,200 steps
take you straight up the freshwater lakes of Sealy Tarns providing
spectacular views of the Hooker Valley and the National Park.
The track branches off from the Kea Point track in the village
and is steep with a total height gain of 600m. Those wanting an
overnight adventure continue can continue on the alpine route
for a couple of hours to Mueller Hut. This 28-bunk hut has gas
cookers and solar lighting. During winter it’s strongly advised to
bring an ice axe, walking poles and crampons. Pay the hut fee at
the Department of Conservation visitor centre in the Aoraki/Mount
Cook village, register your intentions, and check the avalanche
advisory report as there is some avalanche risk along the route.
Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail
CYCLING THE ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL
Aoraki/Mount Cook & Lake Tekapo are the two starting
points for the world-famous 315km Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.
This nine-section trail stretches from the Southern Alps to
the Pacific Ocean. If riding the full trail doesn’t fit with your
schedule, try one of the day rides. Some of the most scenic
sections are near the town of Twizel.
There are many recognised benefits of winter cycling. You’ll
burn more calories due your body working harder to stay
warm. Studies have shown that your resting metabolic rate
increases when you’re exposed to cold. It all adds up to a fitter
body while your lazy mates are busy with Netflix and chill.
Some tips for staying safe while winter cycling include lowering
your saddle to lower centre of gravity and decrease wobble
on ice, letting some air out of the tyres to increase traction,
layering appropriately, and wearing gloves.
Adventure South have a winter Alps 2 Ocean packaged
tour that includes mulled wine, hot water bottles, warm fires,
soaking in hot pools, and much more to ensure total comfort
for the six-day tour.
Winter is the best time to experience the protected ‘park in the
sky’, the 4,367sq km Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky
Reserve. It gets darker sooner, and the centre of the Milky Way
is right above you. The spacious landscape coupled with strict
lighting controls ensures you’ll get a stellar view of the night
sky in the Mackenzie. There’s a wide range of paid tours to
choose from: a working observatory, floating in hammocks in
hot pools, a wine cellar, farm tours, and even small group tours
that deliver a bespoke experience at your accommodation.
You can also try your hand at astrophotography with one of the
region’s talented guide/photographers.
View from Mt John – Dark Sky Project
Another option is to bring plenty some cosy blankets and
folding chairs (don’t forget a thermos of hot chocolate!)
and find your own special place to ponder the universe
beneath the stars. There are plenty of good locations on
the canal roads, and seeing the stars reflected in the water
is truly a special sight.
Everything you need for the ultimate day out is at Tekapo
Springs. Try a thrilling snow tube ride, ice skate on the
outdoor rink, then warm up in the hot pools. The onsite
café is fully licensed with a wide range of food and drink
for everyone. Treat yourself to a massage or beauty
treatment at the day spa, or stargaze from a hot pool with
their Tekapo Star Gazing tours at night.
52//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
mindfulness = attention+intention
We have all done it.
Rocked up to the boat, the ski
field, the rugby game, or the hike,
not feeling 100%. Sure, it was
great meeting up with friends the
night before but then adding too
much merriment to the evening
basically ruins the following day,
possibly the week. You might not
even be hung-over or sick, but
the remnant of alcohol removes
your edge, or, to use a term that
has been used a lot recently, the
alcohol impacts or removes your
Intention; is defined as a noun
as something that you want and
plan to do:
Stress, health, circumstance,
weather can all get in the way of
But alcohol is a substance that
we ‘choose’ to add that often
gets in the way of our core
Your intention was to go fishing,
skiing, biking, or tramping. Not to
feel like ‘ah shit’ for the morning
waiting for the alcohol fog to lift.
With “Dry July” looming and with
the event becoming more and
more popular, it is a good time
to look at our drinking culture.
This is not a goodie-two-shoes,
crusade against alcohol. This is
a look at being mindful, (which is
very WOKE at present) paying
attention and maintaining the
What is mindful drinking?
Mindfulness = attention +
Mindfulness is about paying
attention. So many of us go
through life never really noticing
or even considering how we feel,
what’s going on in our heads,
or how we respond to the world
An addictive world can creep
up on us slowly, it is not always
alcohol or drugs but can be
anything, anything that we feel
we must do ‘or feel compelled to
do’, from that 5k run every day
to simply checking your phone
messages as soon as you wake
up. Unaware repetition is the
subliminal cancer that can rob us
of our intention.
If someone asked you the night
before, ‘do you want to just
have an average day skiing
and feel sick or do you want
this third glass of wine’ – it’s an
easy answer. But only if you
are attentive, if someone else is
pouring your wine or you are not
aware of time and numbers –
you are not mindfully drinking.
Mindfulness is also about living
with intention. Sometimes it
feels like life is happening to
us, it is the way we have been
as we notice what’s
going on inside us and
how we react to other
people, we can begin
to take control.
We start to live
things happen for us
instead of to us.
Mindfulness is also about
living with intention.
Living with intention
Your intention can revolve around an
experience or it can revolve around your
whole life. Some are happy and don’t
need to make any changes, others want
change but are not sure how to bring it
about and some simply have not noticed.
Our reasons for wanting to change are as
diverse as we are.
So much of our culture revolves around
alcohol and it is not until you stop that
you realise how often that connection is
there. If for no other reason do Dry July
so that you can see for yourself how
often and how basic that connection is,
once you have identified it, it makes your
intention so much easy to fulfil.
Mindful drinking really is as simple as
paying attention and living with intention.
Drinking is not about getting drunk,
it’s just a by-product. But the social
aspect, not even pressure just location
and process, can make not drinking
uncomfortable, difficult. As awareness
of the impact of drinking has grown, we
have seen a growth of non-alcohol and
low alcohol beverages bloom. I recall
vividly receiving a pallet of non-alcoholic
Heineken as a promotion and didn’t really
know what to do with it. We all agreed
it would never take off. We were wrong,
now, supermarkets have whole sections
dedicated to non-alcoholic drinks. I am
a fussy beer drinker, I prefer a strong
flavoured IPA, and now, sure enough,
there are several on the market that is
In the US there are now full blow AF
(alcohol-free) bars. In New Zealand,
we have seen the alcohol-free range
increase, particularly online. Leading
the way in selection is Clear Head
Drinks an online company based here
in New Zealand dedicated to alcoholfree
beverages. We caught up with
Donna and Rick and asked them how
the company came about.
How did clear head drinks come about?
Clear Head Drinks was born out of
the need from the co-founder of the
company, Ricky Bartlett who decided
to stop drinking alcohol 8 years ago
but who wanted to still be able to drink
alcoholic drinks but without the effects
of alcohol. Looking around there was a
very limited supply of drinks and those
drinks that were available tended to be
spread out amongst different shops,
supermarkets, and online stores. The
initial idea had been to gather all the
drinks that were on the market and
have them under one roof so that Kiwis
had one place that they could come
to buy NA/Alcohol-free drinks knowing
that they were looking at the complete
collection. The problem was that not
all those drinks tasted any good and
so we decided to look overseas where
the markets were more established
to find a wider variety. At that time,
even though New Zealand was a
craft beer nation, there were no NA or
alcohol-free craft beers available that
were brewed in NZ and so we went
out to the USA, Europe, Canada, and
Australia to find a range that would
satisfy thirsty Kiwis. This is how the
current set-up came into being and
Clear Head Drinks now has a large
range of beverage options from NZ
and from overseas with many of those
drinks being world leaders in their field.
What was the biggest challenge you
had in establishing the company?
Clear Head Drinks was the first,
dedicated NA/Alcohol Free online
store in the country and so being the
first brought with it some challenges
because this path had not been walked
before. Connecting with suppliers from
overseas, arranging freight at a time
when the supply chain was starting
to be affected by Covid and coming
up with the funds to be able to buy
large amounts of stock to bring into
the country were all big challenges. A
large stumbling block was our website.
We had a launch date in mind, but the
development of the website did not go
according to plan and so everything
was delayed as we found a new
website developer, and this turned
out to be an expensive and timeconsuming
Clear Head Drinks was born out of the need from the co-founder of
the company, Ricky Bartlett who decided to stop drinking alcohol 8
years ago but who wanted to still be able to drink alcoholic drinks but
without the effects of alcohol.
" We will continue
to do our part
by bringing an
extensive range of
and tasty nonalcoholic
to the NZ market.
As with the emergence of low alcohol beer
did you originally feel any resistance to the
The idea for Clear Head Drinks came about
8 years ago but it wasn't until the first full
lock down that we acted and began building
the company. If we had started the company
when we had the idea, it could have been
a different story as the non-alcoholic
movement hadn't really taken off at that time
and there was resistance to the concept.
Fast forward 7 years and the overall move to
a more "wellness" focused society in general
and NA/Alcohol-free drinking had become
more and more accepted worldwide and that
acceptance was certainly growing here in
NZ. When we asked people about our idea
we were constantly greeted with positive
feedback and people saying how there was a
market for drinks like this and how more and
more adults wanted to move away from the
harmful effects of alcohol. You always had
the odd person who would say "what's the
point" but generally people understood and
were hugely supportive and there is no doubt
that Kiwis have really welcomed the idea
with open arms.
On a day-to-day level – week by week, have
you been affected by distribution issues?
The distribution issues have been twofold
for us with delays and cost increases
when bringing the stock in from overseas
as well as delivery issues here at home.
The importing of goods has become harder
thanks to container shortages and the effect
of covid on the distribution network (as well
as boats getting stuck in Canals!) and so this
has not only increased the time to get stock
from abroad, but the costs have gone up. At
home, the problems have been, again, due
to the covid issue which has taken courier
drivers off the road, and slowed the ability
for our warehouse to pick, pack and dispatch
orders and this has led to delays.
I am aware that beer has a used by
date – how do you factor that in with
such and extensive range?
There is a lot of juggling that needs to
be done to have products in the store
that have a significant shelf life so
that customers have the certainty that
when the drinks arrive, they are going
to be as good as they can be. When
purchasing from Europe for instance, it
can take up to 3 months for the ship to
arrive and if the product has, like with
Beer, a 12-month shelf life then it is
imperative that what is sent to us is as
fresh as possible to make sure that we
have plenty of time to be able to sell
the goods and that when they arrive
at your door they taste as good as
they should. Keeping a close eye on
when the "best before" dates run out
enables us to order in the appropriate
time frames so that we always have
the best stock on hand.
Do you see a trend in what is popular
– what sells best?
There is no question that New Zealand
is more of a beer nation than anything
else and so we probably sell more
craft beer than any other drink. We
do also sell a great deal of sparkling
wine and one of our exclusive brands,
Thomson & Scott, is our biggest
selling individual product. We are
finding that buyers are willing to try
new things and that is why we look to
increase our range on a regular basis
to give more choice and variety.
There is a worldwide trend to AF bars
– do you think that will start to happen
in New Zealand?
The trend towards non-alcoholic
bars is one that we feel is inevitable
here in New Zealand. There was an
attempt in 2015 with a bar called "Tap
Bar" in Auckland but it didn't work as
the market wasn't ready for it and the
concept of the bar, opening at midnight
to gather those spilling out of other
bars, just didn't fly.
Fast forward to 2022 and Unleaded
Alcohol-Free opened in the Wairarapa,
initially as part of the Greytown
truckstop venue. Unleaded has been
well received with even sceptical
patrons becoming happy customers.
With NA/Alcohol-free drinks becoming
more mainstream, we do see AF bars
having their place in NZ and it is only
a matter of time before this happens
across the country, initially with "popup"
bars and then with permanent
What does the future look like for clear
The NA/AF drinks market is only just
beginning here in NZ. There is a great
deal of interest in the category, but bars
and restaurants are still very slow in
adopting the idea of alcoholic drinks
and where they have jumped on board,
the options are limited. There is no
question that when NA/AF drinks are
available they sell and so it's a case of
educating more hospitality premises so
that they understand that they can sell
this style of drinks, keep more of their
customers happy and make margin at
the same time. We will continue to do
our part by bringing an extensive range
of quality, healthy and tasty drinks
to the NZ market and continuing to
push the message that you can drink
authentic, great-tasting adult drinks,
and continue to enjoy the ritual of
drinking but not suffer the harm that
comes with alcohol.
56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
New Zealand’s first online store
solely dedicated to Non Alcoholic
Perfect after a days adventuring - satisfy
the taste without the after effects. Adult
drinks that make you feel part of the
socialising yet let you wake up the next
day with a clear head ready for your
No matter your reason.......we’ve got you covered
Beers - Wines - Spirits - RTD’s - Ciders - All delivered to your door
Got the pip
In the mix
In the spirit
On the hop
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Unlike anywhere else?
Yip. Here’s why...
For starters, it’s not crowded.
And the snow is incredible, because of, well,
British Columbia winters.
It could be just like anywhere else, but it ain’t.
Come on over.
There’s plenty of room.
And the runs are endless, which means
tired legs will be stoked to sink into the
country’s largest slope-side outdoor
hot pools. Let that soak in!
The accommodation is right beside the lifts,
our team is super-friendly, and well,
it’s Canada, eh? The only thing stuck up here is
the top of the mountain. It’s all pretty chill.
(Except for the hot pools. Those are warm.)
Save up to
LODGING & LIFT TICKETS
See PanoramaResort.com/NZ for details.
1.800.663.2929 / PanoramaResort.com
Established in 2013 The Cardrona experience is situated at
the base of Cardrona Alpine Resort, just 45 minutes from
Queenstown and 20 minutes from Wanaka town centre. It was
started by Kel who had a passion for the region and a deep
love of horses, which she combined to create an unforgettable
kiwi experience for everyone.
Simply The Cardrona activity centre offers first-class, familyfriendly
guided horse treks and quad biking adventures in the
stunning Cardrona Valley. You can explore The Cardrona’s
unique slice of high-country heaven by horseback and quad
bikes, summer or winter, all year-round.
The handpicked trekking horses, with their kind and gentle
temperament, take you on an unforgettable journey in the
mountains. With a range of ages, heights and ‘horsanalities’
across the herd, The Cardrona can cater to different weights
and experience levels.
By horseback or quad you can experience the rugged highcountry
scenery, see its changing moods and picturesque
seasons which Cardrona Valley is renowned for. Learn about
the regions gold-mining history, you check out the working
farm and grab a beer at the iconic Cardrona Hotel. The
possibilities are endless.
Group sizes are small & book out quickly so be sure to lock in
your saddles early to avoid missing out!
Beginners’ options – to advance All levels catered for
• Cost $199 - $349
• How to book www.thecardrona.co.nz
The most special and exciting way to create your lasting Wanaka memories is from
horseback or quad bike high up in the stunning mountains of The Cardrona.
Ride out with THE CARDRONA today to discover the secrets of our unique alpine paradise!
millions of Tripadvisor
travellers place this
attraction in the top
Come cycling in stunning
Central Otago and let the
experts look after all your needs
> Lake Dunstan Trail
> Otago Central Rail Trail
> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail
Roxburgh Gorge trail view
Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366
Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days
Cromwell Bike Shop open 7 days
Bike It Now!
ONE FOR EVERY OCCASSION
By Lynne Dickinson
If you take a moment to do a little bit of people watching, you
will notice that nearly every second person will be wearing what
we used to call a “puffer jacket”. These days they are not just for
the avid adventurer, insulated jackets have become a staple in
everyone’s wardrobe and there is such a variety of them that it is
easy to get overwhelmed by the choice.
There are now quite a wide range of fills available, and each
comes with its pros and cons, so it’s about deciding which one
best suits your needs.
Synthetic: These used to be the underdogs of the
insulated jackets, but as technology has improved
so has the ability to imitate what nature provides.
Synthetic fill jackets now are able to imitate the
properties of down and yet remain water resistant
enabling you to use your jacket in wet conditions.
The downside in the past has been the warmth-toweight
ratio, however, new synthetic insulation, seen
in some of the high-end technical jackets have been
engineered to resemble to warmth-to-weight ratios of
down, and others have developed synthetic fill that is
able to breathe in high-output activities.
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
ab Xenon 2.0 Jacket $279.95
An all-mountain lightweight, synthetic insulated
jacket using 100% post-consumer recycled
PrimaLoft® Silver insulation and a weather
resistant recycled Pertex® Quantam outer.
patagonia Micro Puff® Jacket $399.99
The best warmth for weight of any jacket Patagonia has ever
built, the Micro Puff® Jacket delivers ultralightweight, waterresistant,
down-like warmth with PlumaFill synthetic insulation
– a revolutionary material that replicates the structure of down,
offering the same warmth and packability but with the warmwhen-wet
performance of synthetic insulation. This jacket is
also Fair Trade Certified sewn, which means the people
who made it earned a premium for their labour. It's available in
men's and women's cuts, and a range of colours.
Marmot Men’s Solus Jacket $299.95
3M Thinsulate Recycled Featherless Jacket.
Made with 75% recycled loose-fill fibres. As warm as
700 fill power down, and maintains performance in
Wool has always been considered one of the best
forms of insulation and this is now being used in
insulated jackets. With a high warmth-to-weight ratio
and its ability to performs well when wet, it’s being
used in a variety of insulated jackets. The downside
to wool is simply that it doesn’t reduce in size when
icebreaker Women's MerinoLoft Helix Jacket $399.99
A technical lofted jacket made with sustainable
merino wool and recycled materials, the Helix Jacket
is a warm winter outer layer for everyday versatility.
Down: Down jackets were always
considered the penultimate in
insulation. The down (usually geese
or duck) has an incredibly high
warmth-to-weight ratio and is the
best insulator (pound-for-pound) in
the world. It’s lightweight and packs
down incredibly small.
The main downside of the downfilled
jackets is that they lose their
heat retaining ability if they get wet.
This has been counteracted with
the development of water-resistant
down. This is simply down treated
with a water-resistant coating at
a molecular level. Because the
coating is applied at a micro scale
it adds little weight and does not
affect the loft.
What is fill power? When looking
at down jackets you want to take
note of their “fill power”. This shows
the quality of the down; the higher
the number, the more volume the
down will occupy. A 500-600 range
fill will require more down (making it
feel heavier and bulkier) to achieve
the same warmth as a 800-900 fill.
These help maintain an even
distribution of your fill and prevent
the material from gathering at the
bottom of your jacket.
Wide baffles provide the warmest
option, although they can
sometimes feel bulky, whereas
narrow baffles tend to compress
the jacket more and therefore work
well underneath a waterproof outer
layer and are easy to pack up.
The baffles have been designed
to create real style and shape but
if you are looking for warmth then
you may want to consider the box
wall stitched baffles as opposed
to the stitch-through style. Stitchthrough
keeps the insulation evenly
spread, however the fact that it
is stitched through the jacket can
cause heat to be lost where the
stitching is made, whereas the box
wall stitching allows maximum loft
and designed to prevent heat loss.
The outer material will also depend
on the use of your jacket. Some
are completely waterproof, some
water resistant and others not really
designed for wet conditions.
I have three insulated jackets in
my wardrobe: One a classic down
fill vest with durable waterproof
resistant coating from Huffer with
wide stitch-through baffles that I
wear almost daily in the winter with
One down-filled water-resistant
jacket from RAB, super lightweight
but super warm is my go-to when I
am anywhere near the snow. I also
take it hiking and it creates a great
pillow when in its stuff sack.
My other go-to is a featherless
Insulation jacket from Marmot,
which has a super stylish cut
and cool baffle design. It’s warm
enough to wear during the height of
winter but stylish and compactable
enough fit in any bag and not take
up too much room.
Marmot Women’s Highlander Hoody $449.95
Pertex Quantum® fabric offers wind
protection while also maximising the
efficiency and warmth of 700-fillpower-down
rab Cubit Stretch Down Vest $349.95
Lightweight, packable and perfect
for everyday wear, the Cubit Vest
is cosy, stylish, stretchy, highly
functional and gives new life to
outdoor research Helium Down Hoody $449.99
Durable, abrasion-resistant Pertex® Quantum, 800+ fill
goose down. A waterproof version of Pertex® Shield with
Diamond Fuse fabric adds weather protection to the hood and
shoulders. Available in men's and women's specific versions.
64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
rab Cubit Stretch Down Hoody $499.95
A functional, everyday wind-resistant
and lightweight stretch down jacket
filled with 700FP P.U.R.E recycled
down and Pertex® 3D Weave outer.
Marmot Men’s Hype Down Hoody $649.95
800-fill-power down provides exceptional
warmth, loft, and compactibility. Pertex
Quantum® fabric protects from wind and
improves the efficiency of insulation.
rab Microlight Alpine Jacket $399.95
Rab’s classic lightweight highly packable,
multi-purpose down jacket is an everyday
jacket and mountain layer featuring a fully
recycled shell, insulation and lining.
rab Valiance Jacket $699.95
The ultimate warm and waterproof down
jacket made from durable, waterproof
Pertex® outer and filled with the highest
quality 800 fill hydrophobic down, keeping
you warm throughout the winter.
outdoor research Coldfront Down Jacket $349.99
700+ fill power of responsibly-sourced-down insulation,
85%-recycled VerticalX ECO insulation on the top of the
shoulders and in the cuffs for increased weather resistance and
a 53%-recycled ripstop exterior to block wind and resist rain and
snow. Features include internal wrist gaiters with thumb loops.
Available in men's and women's specific versions.
Marmot Women’s Featherless Jacket $399.95
Lightweight 3M Thinsulate Recycled
Featherless Jacket. Made with 75% recycled
loose-fill fibres. As warm as 700 fill power down,
and maintains performance in wet conditions.
MID & SHELLS....
Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Shell $549.99
A high-output piece designed to move and breathe
with you, the Dawn Patrol Shell is the embodiment
of durability. Designed with four-way stretch and
double weave fabric, quick movements, banger uphill
laps and light weather are all covered. Men’s and
Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody $179.99
The Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody offers
ultimate sun coverage as well as water resistance for
mountain missions with unpredictable weather.
Men’s and Women’s available.
rab Xenair Alpine Jacket $399.95
An adaptable synthetic highly
breathable, weather resistant
insulated hoody perfect for
alpine adventures. Made with
Pertex® Quantum Air outer
and insulated with PrimaLoft®
outdoor research snowcrew Jacket $399.99
Designed for skiers and snowboarders, delivering
performance, warmth and style with a 56%-recycled
shell fabric and 85%-recycled insulation. Features
an adjustable hood with a wire brim that fits most
snowsports helmets, pit zips for ventilation, a
powder skirt, fore-arm ski pass pocket and a doubleseparating
outdoor research Archangel GORE-TEX Bibs $999.99
3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility with 3-layer
GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panels where you need
them - on the knees, lower back and crotch gusset.
Features include top to bottom zips, adjustable
venting and cuff size adjustments to fit climbing or ski
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid pants $479.99
Designed with a single-minded focus on
highly efficient mountain travel, the Dawn
Patrol Pants are the quintessential highoutput
touring pants. Men’s and Women’s
icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Long Sleeve
Half ZipT-Shirt $449.99
A versatile, body-mapped zipneck
top that’s ideal for highoutput
the ZoneKnitLong Sleeve
Half Zip features 100% merino
wool for all-natural warmth and
Icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Insulated Vest $399.99
A body-mapped performance vest that’s ideal for
high-output mountain adventures, the ZoneKnit
Insulated Vest features 100% merino wool for allnatural
warmth and temperature regulation.
icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Short Sleeve T-Shirt $119.99
Our most breathable and lightweight tee for highexertion
activities, the ZoneKnit Short Sleeve Tee
features a clean design with mesh panels to help
regulate your body temperature.
GEAR FOR EVERY ADVENTURER
MACPAC'S PERRENIAL FAVOURITES...
UBER LIGHT RANGE – THE JUST IN CASE LAYER
Range includes – Jackets, vests and
women’s coats. Kids’ jackets available
True to its name, the Uber Light Range
provides lightweight warmth without
the bulk. It's designed to be a versatile
mid or outer layer — depending on the
weather — and it's filled with 650 loft
RDS duck down for cosy warmth. The
lightweight nylon outer features a water
repellent finish to help protect against
moisture, while the elastic bound hem
and cuffs help to trap heat inside the
jacket to keep you warmer. The Uber is
perfect for layering up this season.
The Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
is an independent, voluntary global
standard in the ethical sourcing of down
and feathers. All Macpac down is 100%
• 650 loft Responsible Down
Standard duck down
• Lightweight nylon shell with water
• Elastic bound hem and cuffs
• Zipped hand pockets
• Packs into tiny stuff sack (included)
PRICING FROM $159.99 - $289.99
HALO DOWN RANGE – A REMASTERED CLASSIC
Range includes – Jackets and vests
The Halo range balances warmth and
versatility. This jacket is a great option
for wearing around town, around the
hills, and around the campsite.
Its combination of 100% recycled
fabrics and 600 loft RDS duck down
provides plenty of feel good warmth.
An adjustable hood, hem and cuffs help
trap heat in, and a PFC-free WR finish
encourages water to bead and roll off
the fabric's surface.
They have also updated a few features
to modernise the style, as well as
increasing the size of the internal
pocket. This removes the need for a
separate stuff sack because now you
can pack the jacket in there instead.
• Internal draft tubes
• Zipped hand pockets
• Tricot lining on collar and hand
• Adjustable cuffs, hood and hems
• Packs into internal pocket
• Regular fit
PRICING FROM $229.99 - $299.99
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
GLERUPS BLACK RUBBER BOOT CHARCOAL $199.00
Want to discover the comfiness and softness of 100%
felted wool? Try glerups. Over time glerups will mould
to your feet for all-day comfort. Available in slipper,
shoe and boot with a leather or rubber sole.
glerups is your best adventure accessory.
SALEWA WILDFIRE LEATHER $299.90
The Wildfire Leather is ideal for everyday use, yet provides
the support and stability required for hiking to light climbing.
The high-quality, 1.4mm suede upper is supported by a
protective rubber rand. Underfoot, the POMOCA® Speed
MTN Path outsole has been developed to ensure versatile
grip and sure-footed contact.
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $299.90
The Alp Trainer 2 is a low-cut alpine hiking and trekking
shoe built for enhanced performance and control in a wide
spectrum of mountain terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede
leather upper ensures good comfort and protection and
is further reinforced with a full 360° rubber rand to see off
rock and scree.
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $349.90
The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric upper
with a protective rubber rand for protection against rock, scree and
debris. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal
waterproofing and breathability. The EVA midsole provides superior
cushioning and excellent comfort for a technical shoe.
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $399.90
The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric
upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX®
Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability.
The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers
allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot.
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90
Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our
lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well
on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-
TEX® lining makes it ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity
levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.
gasmate Alpine Butane Stove $79.99
With a vaporisation tube for consistent
performance at altitude, the Alpine stove is
ideal for extended backcountry and alpine
use. Lightweight at 450g with 11,850 BTUs of
Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set
For quick boiling when you need it! A
super lightweight aluminium stove with
quick boil technology, piezo ignition
and accessories all packaged in a
handy mesh carry bag.
Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -5°C Sleeping Bag
The Mamaku Pro -5°C sleeping bag provides
exceptional warmth on cold adventures. The
semi-tapered design features a drawstringadjustable
contoured hood that packs down
into the handy compression bag for easy pack
Kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping Bag
The Mamaku Trek 0°C is perfect for lightweight
hiking with a semi-tapered design and drawstring
adjustable hood. Complete with thermal lining and
Rumpl Original Puffy Blanket - Geo $179.99
The Original Puffy Blanket combines
the same technical materials found in
premium sleeping bags and insulated
jackets to keep you cosy indoors and out.
local dehy kumera chickpea curry
Mildly spiced Indian curry with
spinach & brown rice. Refuel after
a day's adventure! Dehydrated.
Vegan. Home compostable
local dehy hummus $7.00
Roasted Red Pepper & Sundried
Tomato, also available in Beetroot
and Zesty Lemon. Perfect for lunches
on the trail. Dehydrated. Vegan.
Home compostable packaging.
kiwi camping Boost LED Light with
Power Bank $89.99
Bright LED light with power bank to
illuminate your tent and charge devices
on the go. Features 11 light modes
including SOS signal, built-in magnets
and hanging hook.
Mr Heater Portable Buddy $339.00
Portable Buddy is a propane gas heater that
is both lightweight and robust heating up to
18m². Featuring a low oxygen and accidental
tip-over safety shut-off.
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power
Built tough for the outdoors and with a
massive battery capacity you can keep all
your devices charged no matter where your
adventure takes you.
TRY OUR NEW
APPLE & BERRY
deepcreek local ipa $3.79
With only 93 calories per can,
this mid-strength, refreshing, low
calorie IPA is the perfect beer for
the active lifestyle!
KEA KIT: Outdoor Survival System
Be fully prepared for your next adventure
with KEA KIT. The compact, modular and
durable survival kit that includes everything
you need & nothing you don’t.
hydro flask 12L Carry Out Soft
Colder. Longer. Lighter. The
perfect compact size to bring a
little or a lot along for the day.
Keeps items fresh for up to 24
Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch
Born from Adventure: Shackleton Blended
Malt Scotch is based on the spirit supplied to
the 1907 British Antarctic Expedition, expertly
crafted using a selection of the finest Highland
Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available at
various Liquor Retailers .
JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE
Inspired by the innovative,
everchanging drinks scene,
we instinctively knew how a
drop of Jägermeister and a
backbeat of cold brew coffee
could transform any night. The
enviable result? A brand-new
mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD
BREW COFFEE. A unique
fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s
56 botanicals and intense cold
BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:
The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed for the better
by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They have also
improved the readability of our back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.
For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Quest bike trailers $1495 inc GST
Designed and engineered
in the Southern Alps of New
Zealand, it will take you on
and off the road carrying all
the necessities to have a great
time exploring our beautiful
cycle trails or on that epic
Universal Wireless Helmet Audio
& Communication Aleck 006 is the
bluetooth drop-in system that puts
your soundtrack into your snow helmet
and keeps you connected to friends
and family with easy, push-to-talk
tasty chicken mash $9.49 - $13.99
With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken,
cheese and vegetables.
3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free
Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)
Apple & Berry Crumble $13.19
A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and
berries topped with a delicious gluten free
3 Health Stars - Gluten Free
INSTANT PASTA $4.89
Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked
3.5 Health Stars
Sizes – Family 120g
FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
Experts at adventure travel since 2000
We live what we sell!
Whether you enjoy
cycle trails, road
biking or walking,
Adventure South NZ
can help you to explore
New Zealand at
your own pace.
Our motto is “Going the
distance” and we pride
ourselves on providing top
quality outdoor and travel
equipment and service
that will go the distance
with you, wherever that
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
To bring like-minded adventurers together for epic journey’s
fuelled by top-notch coffee. All while supporting the things
we care about and restoring nature.
Our very own online store where
you will find hard goods to keep you
equipped for any adventure.
Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will
have you covered.
Unlock your adventure horizon with Packraft New Zealand.
Online supplier of Kokopelli packrafts, accessories and
adventure inspiration. Shop online or contact us for expert
advice for everything packrafting; hike-raft, bike-raft, hunt-raft,
whitewater, fishing, canyoneering, urban and travel.
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and
tested in New Zealand since 1973.
Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment
specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place
for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor
clothing and more.
Offering the widest variety,
best tasting, and most
nutrient rich hydration,
energy, and recovery
products on the market.
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
Jetboil builds super-dependable
backpacking stoves and camping
systems that pack light,
set up quick, and achieve
rapid boils in minutes.
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
With stores in Clyde and
Cromwell, Bike it Now! is
your access point to the
Central Otago Bike trials: T
> Lake Dunstan Trail
> Otago Central Rail Trail
> Roxbourgh Gorge
Excellent quality Outdoor
Gear at prices that can't
be beaten. End of lines.
Ex Demos. Samples. Last
season. Bearpaw. Garneau.
t r a v e l
Fiji has for centuries been the
quintessential South Pacific tourist
destination for beaches and cocktails
by the pool. Sure, Fiji has all that, but
there is so much more; with such a
unique position in the South Pacific
and an array of beaches, crystal
shallow water, vast oceans, rivers and
mountains. Fiji has everything to offer
those looking for an island adventure.
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Exploring an isolated cave, Fiji
Clockwise from top left: Surfing Cloudbreak, one of the many spots to surf in Fiji / Mount Tomaniivi Summit (aka Mt. Victoria) - Fiji's highest
mountain - on the Cross-Island hike with Talanoa Treks. / Sigatoka Sand Dunes Sunset
With Fiji having some of the most
incredible marine life globally, Fishing
is slowly becoming a popular sport in
the island nation. With such a dense
underwater eco-system, the oceans
of Fiji offer everything from Tuna and
Marlin to Wahoo, Walu and Mahi Mahi,
there’s plenty to catch that will challenge
even the most seasoned fisherman.
Although Fiji’s tropical waters house
fish throughout the year, some types
are more plentiful at certain times than
others. If you’re looking to catch Mahi
Mahi, you can do so year-round, but
you’ll find them in abundance from
December through to February and
again July through to August. Giant
Trevally flock Fiji’s waters around
February through to April, Wahoo from
July through to August, Blue Marlin
February through to March and Yellowfin
Tuna making a popular appearance from
March to April
On Namotu, Big Game Fishing is
something not to miss. While people
generally come for the surf, they can’t
help but take some time out to try their
hand at fishing and have a freshly
caught fish for dinner when they return.
Half Cast Charters, operated through
Volivoli Beach Resort offers some of
Fiji’s best Big Game Fishing on The
Bligh waters. The waters between the
islands of Viti Levu where the resort
is located, and Vanua Levu combined
with depth and reef structure allows for
amazing sports and game fishing. It’s
hard to resist the chance to relax on the
open waters with a cold one as you wait
for a bite.
Dive into happiness
Dive into some of the world’s most
beautiful and colourful network of 10359
square kilometres of coral reef, including
the world-famous Great Astrolabe Reef.
With more than 1000 species of fish
and several hundred sorts of coral and
sponges, Fiji offers an abundance of
unique diving snorkelling experiences.
You can even get up close and personal
with some of the oceans friendly giants
if you go at the right time of year – you
can swim with Manta Rays or Hawksbill
Located between the second and third
largest islands of Fiji, Vanua Levi and
Taveuni, Rainbow Reef offers a display
of vibrant colours under the water,
provided by the hard and soft corals and
marine life that call the area home.
There are around 230 hard and soft
corals creating a feast for the eyes. With
the fantastical beauty, it’s no wonder that
this is one of the top diving destinations
in the world. Plunging your face beneath
the surface of these warm waters, you’re
bound to forget the world above sea
level for a few breathless moments.
Discover Fiji by foot (or dune buggie)
Fiji isn’t just white sand beaches,
although there are plenty of those
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Clockwise from top left: Beautiful beaches await / Aerial of the Wainibau waterfall at the end of the Lavena Coastal Walk. Bouma National
Heritage Park, Taveuni / Underwater image of lady freediving and spearfishing near Savasi
too! From stunning waterfalls, lush
tropical rain forests, rugged coastline
and dramatic mountain tops, there’s
so much to explore by foot. There is a
reason why Taveuni is referred to as the
‘Garden Island’ of Fiji—80% of the island
is covered by tropical rainforests, along
with natural rockslides and ancient lava
flow. Then there’s the Sigatoka Sand
Dunes, whose rolling sand dunes are
something straight out of Arabian nights!
Challenge yourself and climb the
highest mountain in Fiji, Mt Tomaniivi
(Mt Victoria). The best way to tackle
the mountain is with Talanoa Treks on
their overnight excursion. Walk through
some magnificent cloud forest to reach
the summit at 1,323m. On a clear day,
you will have some amazing views
across Viti Levu. Be rewarded at the end
with afternoon tea and a dip in the river
before heading back to the coast.
Get yourself on Fiji’s only self-drive
dune buggies on a guided tour with
Terratrek. Discover Fiji’s most beautiful
waterfalls and rainforests or head up into
the mountains for panoramic views with
outlooks on the Pacific Ocean.
Explore the secret spots of Fiji
Ditch the pool side lounge chair and sign
up for an adventure you’ll never forget!
Whether it’s kayaking or rafting on the
Navua River, jet boating up the Sigatoka
River or zip-lining through tropical
rainforests, there are adventures for
everyone of any age.
Described as an ‘underwater cathedral’,
the Sawa-I-Lau Caves in the northern
Yasawa Islands are a must-do when
visiting Fiji. Sculpted by centuries of
wave erosion eating away at limestone,
you’ll be absolutely blown away by the
spectacular natural architecture right in
front of you. Sunlight streams down into
the Pantheon-esque cave – the roof of
the cave soars over 15 metres above
the water. Guides from the local village
are available to take you through an
underwater passage to reach a secret
adjoining chamber – all you’ll need is the
right gear, and a reasonable helping of
Hang loose on the waves
Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, there
are plenty of waves to catch in Fiji. For
those after leisurely longboard breaks,
head to Natadola Beach on the Coral
Coast. But for those wanting to put their
skills to the test, have a go at what the
locals call ‘Thunder Reef’, Kelly Slater’s
favourite, Cloudbreak the Mamanuca
Islands. If you want to watch the drama
from afar, there are many boats that take
you out to watch the action on the waves
with a cold one in hand. For those
wanting an all-inclusive surf holiday, stay
at Namotu Island Surf Resort , which is
located near many famous breaks and
offer yoga and massages to help you
recover after a big day on the waves.
To find out more visit www.fiji.travel
t r a v e l
LIKE NOWHERE ELSE
The South Pacific island of Niue is one of
the smallest countries in the world, on one
of the largest raised coral atolls on earth
and it prides itself on being ‘special’.
Niue and its people have won numerous
awards for environmental programmes and
sustainability, and it’s uniquely not just for
the tourists. The whole community is on
board and involved with looking after and
maintaining Niue’s unique aspects both
above and below the water.
The absence of surface running water such
as streams and creeks contributes to the
island’s pristine crystal-clear surrounding
ocean, the clarity of which is unforgettable.
With no lagoon or fringing reef, the steep
drop-off is just meters from the land, pelagic
migratory fish such as yellow-fin tuna and
wahoo, which are normally deep-sea fish
are caught no more than two hundred
metres from shore and are in abundance.
I personally have fished all over the South
Pacific and there is nowhere like Niue!
When Captain Cook first visited Niue
he tried to land three times but gave up
because he thought that the natives who
came to greet them were painted in blood.
(The locals in fact had eaten a native red
banana, called the hula-hula.)
Niue island is pristinely clean and those that
do live there take great pride in their island,
and unlike what Captain Cook thought they
could not be more welcoming to visitors.
For such a small atoll there is plenty to do:
When you go to Niue you can swim with
spinner dolphins and see whales close up in
season. It must be the only island that has
an honesty bar. You can visit the smallest
yacht club in the world, catch an Uga
[coconut crab], or snorkel in warm, safe rock
pools teeming with colourful fish.
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
What is unique about Niue as an island
is its isolation and its coral origins that
create a unique coastline. The whole
island is dotted with a myriad of caves,
sheltered rocky coves, chasms and secret
beaches. The Huval Rainforest is home
to stunning indigenous trees and these
have been designated as a Conservation
Area to protect and conserve the island’s
One of the most famous chasms, is
the Matapa Chasm, in the village of
Hikutavake. An amazing and safe place
to swim and snorkel, encased by steep
cliffs overhanging a deep long cool pool
and as always full of fish. It is next to the
open ocean but isolated from its currents
by large boulders on the seaward side
creating a natural swimming pool.
Another well-photographed feature of
the island is Talava Arches. A massive
rock archway noted by Captain Cook
in the late 1700’s, it is surrounded by a
network of complex caves. As with most
of Niue, there is good tourist access, but
it is natural, you need to wear good shoes
and stick to the created paths.
Apart from simply exploring Niue, you can
also go kayaking, biking, fishing, diving
(Niue Blue dive company offers PADI
certified dives). Niue is distinct from all
the other South Pacific islands because
there are no beaches as such. But there
are kilometres of coastline to explore.
There is locally available a map that not
only tells you how to get to a range of
amazing caves and chasms but also tells
you what tides are best for exploring each
of them (by my own experience it pays to
do your homework).
Niue is walking the talk on environmental
protection with the creation of the ‘Niue
Nukutuluea Multi-Use Marine Park’. The
Niue Oceanwide project (NOW) has been
a significant part of Niue’s sustainable
development over the last decade. Based
on scientific assessment and thousands
of years of traditional knowledge, Niue
has established 40% of its region as a
‘no-take’ Large Scale Marine Protected
Area (Niue Mona Mahu) which is
significant for a Pacific Island that relies
on fish. More details here about Niue
Marine Park can be found here:
Something new, (but has always been
there) is star gazing, and once again
there is nowhere like Niue. Niue was the
world’s first whole country to become
a ‘Dark Sky Place’, receiving formal
accreditation from the International Dark-
Sky Association (IDA) as an ‘International
Dark Sky Sanctuary’ and ‘International
Dark Sky Community’, covering the whole
of Niue with Dark Sky protection and
deeming it a ‘dark sky nation’.
Niuean’s have a long history of star
navigation and visitors to Niue can view
the spectacle of an unspoilt night sky.
Guided Astro-tours are led by trained
Niuean community members. Niue’s
viewing sites currently used for whalewatching,
are also ideal spots for Dark
Sky viewing. More details here:
The list of what Niue has on offer to
experience and to do is long!
BORDER OPENING / WEEKLY
FLIGHTS FROM NZ:
Niue's border with NZ reopens, and
weekly flights from Auckland commence
from Tuesday 28 June 2022.
JUST 3 ½ HOURS AWAY: Although
Niue is a world apart, the island is just
a 3 ½ hour flight on Air New Zealand
departing each Tuesday morning (but
check online as the day of week could
AVOID THE CROWDS: With a land
area of 260sq. kms there is space for
you here. When out exploring you often
feel like you are the first one to discover
the many secluded coves, caves and
Niue even uses NZ dollars – and
English is spoken universally.
To find out more visit:
82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Niue’s borders reopen 28 June 2022.
Your average traveller won’t be able to tell you where Niue is on a map – which is
why you won’t find the average traveller in Niue. What you will find is the world’s
largest raised coral atoll; unspoilt, majestic and waiting for you to explore.
Start exploring Niue today, www.niueisland.com
t r a v e l
THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI
A WAVE RICH PARADISE
Images by Steve Dickinson
As with most iconic surf destinations, it is only the
perfect days or the outrageous days that find their
way into the media.
French Polynesia is an amazing surf destination
for everyone, even on the not so perfect days.
It is about halfway between South America
and Australia, this wave rich part of French
Polynesia’s most notorious islands chain it known
for its crystal-clear water, crisp clean barrels
and the notorious wave of death, Teahupoo
(actually surprisingly only one person has died
here and that was in 2000). Personally, I have
seen Teahupoo at is worst (best) during Code
Red in 2011, when the waves were so huge and
ferocious that the ocean was closed by the local
council to all water activities (known as Code
Red). However, this was ignored by the big wave
surfers of the region, and I was lucky enough to
be there. In a lifetime of photographing surfing,
I have never seen anything even come close to
the magnitude and power of the waves on that
day. But that was a once in a lifetime event, most
days surfing in Tahiti can simply described as
Previous Page: Teahupoo at its best
Above: A boat is the best way to reach the breaks in Tahiti
Top Right: They start them young in this neck of the woods
Bottom Right: Tikanui Smith at Ta'apuna
Unlike a lot of surf destinations around
the world French Polynesia's locals are
welcoming and friendly. They love the
fact that you have come to share in their
wave abundance and if treated with the
respect you will make local friends in no
French Polynesia is not one island but
actually 118 islands spread across five
archipelagos. Every island has some
sort of wave at some time of the year.
Access to most of the reef passes
require a boat, however, there are
numerous water taxis that will take you
and even homestays (pensions) where
trips out to the local breaks and a surf
guide are all part of the package.
There are a few breaks around the main
city and as you would expect these do
get more crowded, one great break is
Taa’puna; seeing it close enough to
paddle out too and fairly consistent not
to mention only the five minutes from
Papeete, it gets busy.
Further up the coast there is the black
sand beach break of Papara, which is
good for kids and families.
Continue on that same road (there
is only one) and you will arrive at
Teahupoo, which is a very long paddle
but do-able and can get crazy but
normally only when it gets really big.
If it is big and you really just want to
just look, you can pick up a water taxi
from the Teahupoo marina for an hour
Unlike beach breaks, which most of us
are used to riding, most of the waves in
French Polynesia are reef based, which
often means they are shallow and if you
fall you don’t bounce off the sand but
get scratched up by the coral. It worth
spending some time watching the locals
to see how to avoid this.
Another issue not often discussed is
water flow. A lot of the reef-based waves
are in a pass. Where water travels from
in the lagoon out to open water and it
can be a lot more like a river than a rip,
once again keep an eye on the locals to
know where to go and where to sit.
Best Surf Seasons in French
March - June: From March to June,
the southern hemisphere comes alive,
putting up consistent south swells that
create some great surf options.
During winter: Once again there is
consistent swell throughout the whole of
winter right up until October.
Spring: As summer arrives things
start to quieten down a little especially
towards the end of October this is also
the rainy season but it’s still warm and if
you want to hunt around there is always
Summer: November to March is
basically their summer and surf is
smaller and less consistent.
The bottom line for surf travel is don’t
always make it about the waves. If
you just focus on just the surf, you will
fail to see what an amazing place any
surf destination can be. The trick is to
love where you are and then add great
surf as the cherry on the cake. French
Polynesia has a huge amount to offer
and great waves for everyone are just a
part of the full experience.
To see what is available visit www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022
Float above the world’s bluest blue
t r a v e l
THE PLACE FOR YOU!
Life is about Moments! There are
moments that makes use laugh, cry or
change our perspective and open our
eyes and hearts.
The moments we remember are those if
consequence and significance – the ones
we file away in the scrapbooks of our
lives. That’s especially true when it comes
to holidays and probably even more so
A visit to Vanuatu holds the promise
of incredible moments to be made,
remembered and shared. It is these
moments that define our experience and
call us back for another stay.
Vanuatu is not a about a simple list of
things to see and do, but more about
how it makes you feel. Its about moments
that connect us to people, places, and
emotions. When you Answer the Call
of Vanuatu, you’ll be swept away in any
number of incredible moments that will
make you feel good.
After all a holiday isn’t meant to be
taken to seriously: its about letting go
and getting ready to leap into your next
We know people are still keen to get out
and experience the world in full colour.
Making connections, experiencing
different, treading lightly, but mostly
jumping into another place entirely both
physically and mentally. It is also clear
that smaller is better when it comes to
To be honest this is pretty much the
holiday experience in Vanuatu pre all the
challenges of the past few years, so I
guess we are good are it.
Vanuatu is slowing starting the re-opening
process and over 2022 will gradually
reduce the restrictions and requirements
of entry. This will be a gradual process
linked to vaccination targets.
So, what is it about Vanuatu that will
make it a strong contender for your
holiday shopping list as travel gets freer?
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
Above: Matava River, Santo - Image by Joel Johnsson
1. Get Back to Your Passions: Whether it
be walking, diving, canyoning, or exploring
volcanos now will be the time to get back
to your passions. I am sure you have a
full bucket list of sites to dive or walks to
traverse can we suggest you make sure
that Vanuatu on your list.
There will be some you know about such
as the President Coolidge wreck dive in
Espiritu Santo, but we offer much more
than that without having your fellow diver
right next to you. The coral reefs and
fish life off Tanna are yet to really be
discovered and Hideaway and Tranquillity
Islands are eagerly waiting to do what they
The remote Island of Gaua offers a 4-day
hike with local guides to the highest
waterfall in Vanuatu, Siri Falls, after
canoeing across Lake Letus. Oh, and did
we mention that you also stride up Mount
Garet the highest peak on the island and
an active volcano.
2. Off the Grid: Do you feel the need to
lose yourself in an environment where few
people venture? Or to hangout in a no fuss
bungalow on the beach or by the side of
a volcano enjoy the hospitality of a local
family who have looked after the land for
There is no shortage of off the grid
locations and experiences across Vanuatu.
These special locations offer some of the
most relaxing and freeing experiences
as you simply can’t bring your everyday
habits with you.
• Spending 4 days at Lonnoc Eco Beach
Above: Gaua - Mbe Solomul River
Insert: Tanna Kastom celebrations
Bungalows set in tropical gardens amidst
blue holes, Champagne Beach, and
Lonnoc Beach right in front of you for
swimming and snorkelling.
• Pele Island and its neighbour Nguna
are in MPA Nguna-Pele Marine Protected
Area. The island are a short boat trip
from mainland Efate which transport you
into the truly beautiful location. There
are plenty of island bungalows to choose
from and your daily activities can be
hiking, hammocking, banana boat safaris,
snorkelling or fishing.
• Perched up in a treehouse amongst
the canopy of a banyan tree surround by
birdsong and looking out to the rumblings
of Mount Yasur, one of the worlds most
accessible volcanos, on Tanna Island is
about as off the grid as you can get. Set in
the middle of a local village experiencing
real island life is part of the journey.
Jungle Oasis Bungalows, Banyan Castle
Bungalows or Tanna Yasur Homestay
Bungalows love sharing their connection to
the land and life living next to a volcano.
3. Connection and Kastom: Kastom
is what holds community, family, and
connection together in Vanuatu. It is
unwritten and unspoken but demonstrated
everyday in how things get done. Kastom
respects the land, the people, and the
How can you experience Kastom as a
visitor? Spend some time in the markets,
attend an event such as the Naghol (land
diving) in Pentecost, talk to the Mama’s
with their skilfully made handicrafts or
watch the kids play fearlessly in the water,
lagoons, and Blue Holes. It is part of life in
Vanuatu so really you don’t need to look it
will be part of what makes you let of your
comfort zone but still feel safe.
4. Adventure: Adventure, the dictionary
definition is and exciting or remarkable
experience. For some it will be the local
market and the new foods, sounds and
laughter or other pushing themselves
on the hike into the Millennium Cave, or
choosing the option to channel your inner
explorer and walk for 3 days to the volcano
rather than 4WD. Adventure has never
been so much fun as it is Vanuatu.
5. Road Not Travelled: If being the only
visitor at a particular time is your idea of
how a trip of discovery should be, staying
with a family in their bungalow, after
catching a light aircraft over the islands,
Vanuatu could keep you travelling for
quite some time. Below are a couple of
suggestions but there really is no shortage
•Rah and the Rock of Rah
•Moon Cave and Maewo
•Hiking up the little explored volcanos of
For more information check-out www.vanuatu.travel
1.30pm Siri Falls, Gaua
Hiking Diving Culture
Go explore at vanuatu.travel
All your tramping & trail essentials!
Same shop & family since 1988.
Fuel your adventure!
Delicious dehydrated meals by Local Dehy
are made in Wānaka by adventurers, for
adventurers. All our meals are 100%
vegan, bursting with flavour and come in
lightweight home-compostable packaging.
Order online today and enjoy memorable
plant-based meals on your next adventure.
FOOD FOR THE HILLS HILLS
adventure ad 3.indd 1
10/05/2022 3:49:06 PM
S.A Shuttles are a specialists when it comes to Auckland Airport shuttle
services. We pick-up passengers from the Airport and deliver to; hotels,
motels, CBD and the suburbs (door to door). This service is available to
meet every flight arriving into Auckland Airport.
• BOOKED shuttle services to meet flight
• On demand shuttle services for group bookings
• Direct shuttle for individual needs
• Corporate Transfers for Business Client
We also do tours around the North Island | www.southaucklandshuttles.com | firstname.lastname@example.org | 0800 300 033 (Toll free)
Keep powered on any adventure
Go further for longer on your next adventure with the Quest Bike Trailer.
The Quest Bike Trailer was born out of the stunning mountains of
Arthurs Pass in the South Island of New Zealand and developed to
withstand the roughest of journeys. A true triumph of Kiwi ingenuity and
a proven product to take you further for longer.
The Old Nurses hOme
Welcome to The Old Nurses Home Guesthouse
This historic renovated building in Reefton allows you to enjoy the stunning
Victoria Conservation Park with access to outstanding bush walks, historic
mining sites, and withing walking distance to the famous Inangahua River and
some of the best fishing for trout in NZ. White water raft or kayak the exciting
rivers in the area. Reefton offers a perfect base for MTB riders to explore The
Old Ghost Road from Lyell through the ranges to Seddonville on the West Coast.
Caring luxury | Local flavour | One of a kind
Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage room available
1191 Pukaki Street, Rotorua
p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz
A digital currency
designed for everyday
Available to download on
Jeep ® Gladiator, engineered from the ground up to be a true 4x4 adventure truck, ready to transport you down
the road or to the far corners of the earth. Learn how Gladiator can expand your boundaries at jeep.co.nz.