Adventure 234

Above: Beginning our descent from Carroll Hut. Far right: Emerging out of the bush with views of the Otira Gorge below.
Inserts: Clambering our the way to Carroll Hut / Stunning alpine bush surrounded Carroll Hut / Enjoying the warmth and comfort of Carroll Hut
Like all Alpine areas, you need to come
well prepared in terms of gear and fitness.
Back in the 90’s a group of us completed
the famous Minga-Deception track during a
cold weekend in late May. On that trip one
of our party hit the proverbial wall several
hundred metres short of the hut. We had to
split his gear amongst three of us and coax
him up the valley to the hut. Next day was a
slog out onto river flats in sleet which turned
to snow just as we reached the car park.
This trip was a complete contrast. We had
based ourselves in Arthurs Pass township
for 9 days over Christmas and New Year,
and even after a full week of exploring, I left
regretting we hadn’t planned a longer stay.
A day-walk to the top of Bealey Spur and
an overnight trip to Carroll hut are probably
two of the best and most contrasting
trips that will whet your appetite for more
adventurous trips in the park, such as
Avalanche Peak (see January issue –
“Decent to Crow valley – the scree slope
from hell”).
The Isolation of Carroll Hut
(3-4 hours each way)
If you find yourself standing on the Otira
lookout north of Arthurs Pass village, take
time to lift your gaze over the viaduct and
the ridges of the Barron Range to a small,
scooped hanging valley in the distance.
It’s heavily- forested headwall plummets
some 500 metres into the Otira Gorge
below. Looking closely, you can see the
tiny light brown spec of the 10-bunk Carroll
Hut looking isolated, frail and insignificant
against the magnificently rugged peaks
and steep glacial valleys surrounding it.
It is difficult to comprehend the contrast
between this track on the west and Bealey
Spur to the east. For starters the trail
begins with a river crossing which will test
the quality of boots and gaiters.
Gone was the wide meandering path of
Bealey Spur. At the start the narrow rocky
path is almost hidden by overhanging
shrubs and ferns which soon widens,
but also gets a lot steeper. For the next
few hours we scrambled, scaled and (for
some) swore our way up an endless series
of head-high (and higher) rocky or muddy
ledges, searching for hand and footholds.
The foliage was a dense mass of gnarled
podocarps with numerous other broadleaf
shrubs. A few sweaty hours later the
canopy above began to thin out, allowing
some sky to peak through. Mount Cook
lilies and daisies appeared on the side of
the narrow path as it widened and started
to traverse across the face of the ridge.
At this point we got our first views of the
spectacularly steep and narrow Otira
Gorge way below us and across the valley
to the Barron Range, it’s ridges scarred by
scree-slopes. The vegetation was steadily
changing again to a mix of snow tussock
and other alpine shrubs. Up ahead the
track disappeared into the occasional mist.
It was getting much cooler.
Carroll hut came into view, looking fragile
and isolated in the expanse of the cirque.
The surrounding peaks were barely visible
in a lumpy cloak of damp, swirling mist.
Painting the hut a creamy brown looked
like an attempt to make it blend in with
the rugged beauty of the tussock and bog
pine in the cirque. Instead, it seemed to
look more foreign and out of place with its
straight edges and dark framed windows.
Once inside it was a different story.
Sleeping bags were unpacked, gas
burners hissed, lunches, coffees and teas
made, and the banter and chatter began.
Outside the weather clagged in, and no one
mentioned anything of the original plans to
venture to the tarns and peaks behind the
hut. It was a pleasure to spend the rest of
the day in the cosy, spacious hut.
Next morning, the weather hadn’t exactly
cleared but the rain had moved on. The
group packed up and then several of us
rugged up in beanies and rain jackets and
walked over the ridge behind the hut and
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