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SUITED UP<br />
“People are coming to me for suits<br />
and they’re buying the most elegant suits<br />
I’ve ever sold in my career.”– Paolo Martorano<br />
COURTESY EDWARD SEXTON<br />
NEXT GENERATION<br />
Dominic Sebag-<br />
Montefiore is<br />
carrying on Edward<br />
Sexton’s subversive<br />
traditions.<br />
Facing page: Kevin<br />
Seah leads the<br />
way in Singapore’s<br />
tailoring circles.<br />
pinstripes; they’re going for double-breasted;<br />
they’re going for peak lapels; they’re going for<br />
dressy jackets and trousers with braces. They’re<br />
choosing cloths like cashmere. They want luxury.”<br />
And they want it from an under-the-radar purveyor<br />
with pedigree whom Martorano personifies.<br />
Across the pond in London, Dominic Sebag-<br />
Montefiore, cutter and creative director at<br />
Edward Sexton (edwardsexton.co.uk), is also<br />
observing customers taking real joy in dressing<br />
to the nines. “Bespoke tailoring is blooming into<br />
something beautiful and special,” he says. No<br />
longer is traditional men’s wear viewed as a<br />
dour corporate uniform, reluctantly donned for<br />
the workday. “Today, the suit is free to be an<br />
icon of masculine elegance,” he explains, “or<br />
something subversive.”<br />
Sebag-Montefiore’s mentor, the eponymous<br />
Sexton, knows a thing or two about subversion,<br />
having earned legendary status as the cutter for<br />
Savile Row insurrectionist Tommy Nutter, tailor<br />
to 1960s London’s swingingest characters.<br />
Today, Sexton’s house honors Nutter’s legacy,<br />
remaining dedicated to making “clothes that<br />
are striking, bold and timeless that are true<br />
to our rebellious roots—dressing The Beatles,<br />
Stones, Warhol, Hockney, and so on,” Sebag-<br />
Montefiore explains. “We approach what we<br />
do boldly and unapologetically,” he says. “We<br />
have more freedom to be creative in what we<br />
make than we have had in over 40 years.”<br />
And yet, for all this talk of breaking with<br />
tradition, Sebag-Montefiore says he’s acutely<br />
conscious of the need to adhere to the oldschool<br />
values of exquisite construction and<br />
craftsmanship upon which Sexton built his<br />
name. “Legacies are hard earned and easily<br />
lost,” Sebag-Montefiore believes. “A reputation is<br />
dependent on maintaining the standards that won<br />
it. A legacy is kept by pursuing higher standards.”<br />
The reputation of Australia’s oldest bespoke<br />
tailors, J.H. Cutler (jhcutler.com), stretches<br />
all the way back to 1884. When John Cutler<br />
assumed the role of cutter at the family<br />
business in the 1970s, he became the fourth<br />
generation of his bloodline to run the company.<br />
Over the years, John expertly catered to the<br />
sartorial needs of a host of Australian prime<br />
ministers, business leaders, top professionals,<br />
and internationally renowned entertainers.<br />
Unfortunately, none of John’s four children<br />
chose to follow him into the trade, so when<br />
he began pondering retirement, he was forced<br />
to look beyond his gene pool for a successor.<br />
Employed by John in 2009, Sam Hazelton has<br />
been training to take the reins at J.H. Cutler<br />
for the past 13 years. Now, with John retiring<br />
to Tasmania, he’s poised to fulfill that destiny.<br />
“It’s an amazing opportunity,” says Hazelton.<br />
“I’m truly honored and I’m still getting used to<br />
the idea. I’ve always known that the business<br />
had incredible potential, and I’d like to really<br />
explore that over the next few years.” He says<br />
plans are afoot to refresh and slightly modernize<br />
the brand, and to ensure the standards Cutler<br />
and his forefathers established are kept.<br />
“It’s difficult finding or training people these<br />
days. Sadly, there’s no government-supported<br />
tailoring apprenticeship program in this country.<br />
58 NetJets