Netjets US Autumn 2022

THE GOURMET
TASTING FINE
Below, from left to right: Soufflé for
two at Koloman, New York; the bar at
Batea, Barcelona; Adriana Cavita at
her eponymous London restaurant;
Japanese-French fusion at Magma in
Paris; Alejandro Saravia of Melbourne’s
Victoria by Farmer’s Daughters; a
private room at Mr. T’s in L.A.
P64-65, from left: Pancia di vacca
from Horto in Milan; peach and
raspberry Charlotte from the dessert
menu at Koloman.
IT MAY HAVE BEEN usurped in gourmets’ affections over the
past couple of decades by molecular gastronomy and Scandi
minimalism, but French cuisine is fighting back. Perhaps, postpandemic,
we all crave burgundy banquettes, crisp white napkins,
sparkling chandeliers, and the contented bistro buzz that only
Gallic savoir-faire can provide.
Nowhere is that truer than New York. Daniel Boulud, New York’s
favorite French son, has gone back to his Lyonnais roots to open
Le Gratin (legratinnyc.com), a pitch-perfect bistro de luxe with
dishes that would bring a tear to his maman’s eye: cervelle de
canut (soft cheese with herbs), quenelles of pike with mushrooms
and gruyère, pâté en croûte gourmand, and spit-roast chicken with
gratin dauphinois.
Not to be outdone, Fouquet’s, the hallowed Champs-Élysées
brasserie, now has a New York outpost, in the heart of Tribeca.
The menu at the Art Deco-ish Brasserie Fouquet’s New York
(hotelsbarriere.com) is the brainchild of marquee chef Pierre
Gagnaire, who adds his customary élan to a classically Gallic menu
of escargots, sole meunière, and steak tartare.
Up in NoMad land, Austrian chef Markus Glocker is fusing a
Viennese café vibe with a (mostly) French menu. Taking over the Ace
Hotel space vacated by The Breslin, Koloman (kolomanrestaurant.
com) offers cheese soufflé with confit mushrooms, and salmon
en croûte with beetroot beurre rouge, but there’s also a schnitzel,
naturally, and sachertorte to follow.
Back in Paris’s 16th arrondissement, Le Petit Rétro (petitretro.
fr) is hardly new—this glorious Art Nouveau bistro has been in
business since 1904—but the owner is: The renowned Guy Savoy,
who has installed wunderkind chef Irwin Durand (Le Chiberta) at
FROM LEFT: NICK JOHNSON, VILMA EK, ARIANA RUTH
66 NetJets