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MATTIA PARODI<br />
THE GOURMET<br />
and the food is earthy and seductive. Try the smoked beef shin<br />
quesabirria—a hybrid of a taco and a quesadilla—served with veal<br />
bone consommé.<br />
Elsewhere in Europe, Barcelona continues to cement its gastrotourist<br />
reputation with Batea (bateabarcelona.com), the handsome<br />
new seafood restaurant from local boy Carles Ramon and Galician<br />
Manu Núñez, the two chefs behind the acclaimed Besta. Their<br />
sometimes audacious menus delight in uniting their two corners<br />
of Spain (and the Atlantic with the Mediterranean): spicy mussel<br />
croquetas, maybe, or cockles with a salted fish broth dashi, or<br />
sautéed baby cuttlefish with bouillabaisse mash and dry-aged<br />
steak. Go with an open mind and an empty stomach.<br />
In fashion-conscious Milan, nowhere is more in vogue than Horto<br />
(hortorestaurant.com), the sleek and stylish restaurant atop The<br />
Medelan, the new business and retail complex in Piazza Cordusio.<br />
The brains in the kitchen belong to Norbert Niederkofler, the three-<br />
Michelin-starred chef from St. Hubertus, who has transferred his<br />
ultra-local philosophy from the Dolomites to Milan. All his produce<br />
comes from within an hour’s drive of the city: The menu changes<br />
constantly, but expect freshwater trout and sturgeon, locally farmed<br />
caviar, and imaginative twists on northern Italian classics such as<br />
Piemontese “plin” (agnolotti) gilded with saffron and scattered with<br />
borage flowers from the terrace garden.<br />
Meanwhile, Bangkok’s post-pandemic recovery continues<br />
apace, and the city’s cosmopolitan tastes are exemplified by Terra<br />
(bangkok-terra.com), the smart new Spanish restaurant from<br />
Barcelona-born chef Sandro Aguilera. Located just off Petchburi<br />
Road, Aguilera’s menu takes the very best of Spanish produce and<br />
turns it into a feast both for the palate and for the eyes. Ajo blanco<br />
is reinvented with coconut, clams, and a basil granita; cuttlefish<br />
is served as a tartare with charred lettuce; while Galician octopus<br />
has bomba rice, roasted white asparagus, and alioli for company.<br />
For an underappreciated cuisine much closer to home, head to<br />
North (north-restaurant.com), in Phrom Phong, a leafy sanctuary in<br />
the middle of Bangkok. Chiang Rai-raised chef Panupong Songsang’s<br />
menu, as the restaurant’s name suggests, is a homage to northern<br />
Thai cuisine—the ancient kingdom of Lan Na—and his cleverly<br />
crafted menu takes diners on a journey through river and jungle, far<br />
away from the coconut palms and the ocean that inform many Thai<br />
menus. Expect butterflied and grilled king river prawns with khao soi<br />
noodles and a spicy broth, Chiang Rai-style deep-fried catfish salad<br />
(“larb”), and tea-smoked duck breast with galangal chili sauce.<br />
A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME<br />
Above: Refined dining at Horto, Milan.<br />
Facing page, from top: Markus Glocker<br />
and Katya Scharnagl of Koloman,<br />
New York; côte de boeuf from Le Gratin,<br />
also in the Big Apple.<br />
68 NetJets
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