Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 10

Wear the Trend:
An elevated classic
Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares how
to elevate a classic white blouse into something special!
This edition, we have another
recurrent wardrobe staple – a white
blouse. This sewing pattern from
Closet Case Patterns has been reimagined
with the ‘keep it simple
but never boring’ mantra, and has
been elevated by adding a blouson
gathered sleeve. Classic white blouses
transcend the seasons, so you can
wear this style for years to come. Style
the neckline with a golden pendant
or chain necklace to highlight the
speckled golden dots.
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Tips for working
with double gauze
Rotary cutters and sharp pins
are helpful tools, along with
Microtex size 80 needles and
cotton thread.
Pre-wash gently and take care
when pressing to not flatten the
texture.
Cut fabric with nap option.
Make sure you overlock or finish
the seams, as this fabric tends to
fray easily.
Because of the open weave,
manipulate as little as possible
to avoid distortions.
Don’t skip on that all-important
neckline stabilising stitch!
Perfect Fabric
Gatherings on this fabric look
particularly dashing. Here are my
top tips on how to sew gathers and
getting a clean finish:
It’s made from my favourite springsummer
fabric. Double Gauze has a soft,
lightweight, and slightly crinkly texture. The
fabric is made from two light-layered fine
open muslin, which are joined as one, and
has a slightly transparent feel. It’s naturally
breathable, really soft and is semi-stable.
Editor’s notes
The Cielo Dress & Top is an easy, breezy take on
a boxy tee and shift dress. It’s loaded with lots of
interesting details and interchangeable features
such as semi-cropped top with a cuffed short
sleeve or dramatic gathered long sleeve. All views
have a slightly dropped shoulder, angled shoulder
yoke and roomy fit, with a choice between an
elegant bias binding or faced neckline finish.
To view this pattern – click here
The fabric Rachel has used is Moondust Double Gauze in white from Modelo
Fabrics. It comes in a range of stylish colours and enhanced with a gold or silver
dot design. To view – click here
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Best way to achieve even
gathering is to sew two rows
of basting stitches. One of the
basting stitches should be on
the seam allowance.
Don’t backstitch and try to leave
a long tail both sides.
Gently pull the long thread tails
at stages to gather the fabric.
Use the upper thread only.
If you don’t have an overlocker,
French seams are your best
friend! To achieve a neat finish:
Divide the seam allowance by
WS/WS: 1cm, trim and RS/RS:
0.5 cm.
Press the seam as it was sewn,
and finger-roll the seam to sit
perfectly at the centre. Don’t
over trim.
When sewing the underarm
curve, stretch the curve
slightly to avoid any puckering
when finished.