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Adventure #238

Winter issue of Adventure Magazine

Winter issue of Adventure Magazine

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After topping out the Statue Wall, Rich Turner and Richard Thomson relax on the ridge amid the peaks above Te Puoho glacier.<br />

I climbed back up to where a scar on the rock betrayed<br />

what had happened: my right foothold had sheared off<br />

as I’d transferred my weight onto it. All the excitement<br />

had flashed by in a hurry. Only now did I understand<br />

how easily the death block could have sheared through<br />

my ropes, which would have seen me plummet all the<br />

way down. Instead all I had to contend with was a dull<br />

ache in my butt cheek, and a bruised ego.<br />

I continued up the corner to a spectacular overhang,<br />

which, thanks to some joyfully enormous holds, was<br />

easily overcome. Thomson then led the fourth pitch up<br />

a steep corner to a large slab, which was so luxuriously<br />

roomy that I promptly lay down for a tramadol-induced<br />

siesta.<br />

Turner took the ropes to the spectacular views at the<br />

top of the face: the Lake Turner basin to the west,<br />

bordered by the undulating ridgeline from Mt Patuki in<br />

the south to Mt Madeline to the north; the Te Puoho<br />

cirque to the east, with granite giant Mt Taiaroa<br />

dwarfing the glacial lake below, and, in the distance,<br />

the meandering Hollyford River.<br />

We took our time. It was still early afternoon and,<br />

though clouds were hovering, there seemed to be no<br />

need to rush down from the exquisite solitude and<br />

natural beauty encompassing us. These mountains,<br />

never crowded, are as enchanting and majestic as<br />

any in the country, and they should always be inhaled<br />

slowly.<br />

Eventually, we traversed carefully and delicately along<br />

the ridge to the north, towards Te Wera, and then down<br />

a low-angled slope to the base of the wall where we<br />

gathered our packs before returning to Turner’s Eyrie.<br />

It’s always a unique blend of feelings after succeeding<br />

at a first ascent. Until that day, no one had touched<br />

the rock on that part of the wall, and trying to climb it<br />

is shrouded in nervous uncertainty about whether it is<br />

22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/<strong>#238</strong>

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