BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine
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87<br />
Tertulia Cellars 2008 Sobra (Columbia<br />
Valley). This is a fresh and forward effort that’s<br />
based on all six Bordeaux grapes. It bears pretty plum<br />
and cherry flavors, with a chocolaty wash over the quick<br />
finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $20<br />
86<br />
Zerba Cellars 2008 Wild Z (Walla Walla<br />
Valley). A “kitchen sink” blend of Merlot,<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot, the Wild<br />
Z shows far more flavors of vanilla and black tea than<br />
fruit. A popular style to be sure, fine for everyday drinking.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 14.1% Price: $20<br />
85<br />
Gamache Vintners 2009 Boulder Red<br />
(Columbia Valley). Flavors of cracker and<br />
toast accompany light raspberry fruit. The wine is a bit<br />
unbalanced, and it falls a little flat on the finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.9% Price: $18<br />
85<br />
Two Mountain NV Hidden Horse (Washington).<br />
This sturdy red is a blend of four Bordeaux<br />
grapes, with a tannic, earthy structure. It has the<br />
sort of rugged power that you’d look for in a café wine,<br />
ready to take on a juicy burger and some fries. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $15<br />
OTHER RED WINES<br />
94<br />
Maison Bleue 2010 La Montagnette Upland<br />
Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Mountain<br />
District). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $35<br />
91<br />
Watermill 2008 Tempranillo (Columbia<br />
Valley). A jump forward in quality for this pure<br />
Tempranillo. It opens with a dark, smoky nose—oaky<br />
but compelling. The midpalate remains tight and hard,<br />
but shows muscular black fruits, good length, and leads<br />
nicely into a balanced finish with ripe tannins. Editors’<br />
Choice. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $28<br />
90<br />
Robert Ramsay 2009 McKinley Springs<br />
Vineyard Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven<br />
Hills). Good concentration and clear varietal flavors<br />
mark this excellent Washington Mourvèdre. The mixed<br />
red fruits are well integrated, with a strong vein of mineral,<br />
and a finishing wash of vanilla, coffee and chocolate.<br />
Lots of barrel flavors to be sure, but the fruit can<br />
take it. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $35<br />
89<br />
Syncline 2010 Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven<br />
Hills). Tangy red fruits mix with berries and<br />
unusual hints of banana and coconut in this 100% varietal<br />
Mourvèdre. The tannins are light and proportionate.<br />
This is a very good depiction of both the grape and<br />
vintage. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.4% Price: $30<br />
88<br />
Syncline 2010 Pinot Noir (Washington).<br />
2010 was a tough vintage in the Columbia<br />
Gorge, so the sources for this rare Washington Pinot<br />
appear to have changed. It shows the careful, balanced<br />
approach that characterizes all Syncline wines, with appealing<br />
elegance. You will find flavors of wild strawberry,<br />
sweet tomato, and a dusting of cocoa in the finish.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 13.1% Price: $25<br />
87<br />
Camaraderie 2009 Tempranillo (Yakima<br />
Valley). This is a mix of fruit from both warm<br />
and cool vineyards, crafting a clean, fresh, lightly herbal<br />
wine with a pleasing dusty character. Hints of cocoa<br />
and toast annotate the tart berry fruit, with a thread of<br />
smoke and chalk running through the tannins. —P.G.<br />
abv: NA Price: $28<br />
87<br />
Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Zinfandel<br />
(Columbia Valley). Cherries and<br />
chocolate are the hallmark of the Zins at Maryhill.<br />
The fruit is pretty and the chocolate smooth, certainly<br />
a crowd-pleasing style. The finish is clean and supple.<br />
—P.G.<br />
abv: 15.2% Price: $30<br />
86<br />
Maryhill 2009 Zinfandel (Columbia Valley).<br />
This sleek and herbal Zinfandel shows<br />
good balance, matching tart red fruits against suggestions<br />
of dried leaves and spices. There is a smooth,<br />
chocolate and vanilla coating that masks the bitter edge<br />
on the finish. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.2% Price: $17<br />
86<br />
Two Mountain 2010 Lemberger (Rattlesnake<br />
Hills). Lemberger is a grapy red, with<br />
broad and simple fruit flavors, often with a rustic, tannic<br />
finish. Here it’s been done in a lighter style, with a dried<br />
leaf note and lightly dusty tannins. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.4% Price: $16<br />
86<br />
Zerba Cellars 2008 Dolcetto (Walla Walla<br />
Valley). Dolcetto is still a rare sighting in Washington,<br />
and the vines that exist are still quite young. Not<br />
surprising then that this pleasant red is rather simple,<br />
with red fruit flavors and a subtle streak of pepper. The<br />
tannins are a little on the stemmy side. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.7% Price: $30<br />
84<br />
Maryhill 2009 Barbera (Columbia Valley).<br />
A simple red, with sharp acids that give an edgy<br />
cut to the mouthfeel. This would be a fine pizza wine, or<br />
good with grilled sausages. —P.G.<br />
abv: 13.1% Price: $17<br />
84<br />
Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Grenache<br />
(Columbia Valley). This brings light<br />
flavors of leaf and hard cherry candy, with a hint of cola.<br />
After its quick start, the wine tails off gently. —P.G.<br />
abv: 14.8% Price: $20<br />
82<br />
Castle Rock 2010 Pinot Noir (Columbia<br />
Valley). Thin and earthy, this is Pinot Noir at<br />
its most herbal, with no fruit in sight. —P.G.<br />
abv: NA Price: $11<br />
OTHER NORTH AMERICA<br />
IDAHO<br />
85<br />
Pend d’Oreille 2009 Chardonnay (Idaho).<br />
Savory on the nose and palate, with a slightly<br />
dusty apple note that lingers amidst whiffs of vanilla,<br />
spice, potpourri and sweet cream. Big in body and alcohol.<br />
—A.I.<br />
abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />
MASSACHUSETTS<br />
85<br />
Truro 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay (Southeastern<br />
New England). Unabashedly tropical<br />
on the nose and palate with gobs of ripe mango,<br />
guava and peach, this cheerful Chardonnay is fresh and<br />
juicy, with lemon-lime acidity and a surprisingly-elegant<br />
minerality on the finish. Drink now. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $16<br />
84<br />
Truro 2008 Estate Grown Chardonnay<br />
(Southeastern New England). Bright gold<br />
in color, this is fragrant of sweet spice, smoke and orange<br />
rind. Medium-bodied in style, the palate is a tad<br />
tart, with notes of sour apple, lemon and underripe tangerine.<br />
Finishes on a sour wood note. —A.I.<br />
abv: 12% Price: $25<br />
NEW JERSEY<br />
83<br />
Unionville Vineyards 2010 Unionville<br />
Home Single Vineyard Estate Bottled<br />
Chardonnay (New Jersey). Quite savory on the<br />
nose and palate, with notes of cooked apple, lemon and<br />
peach purée. This is judiciously oaked with bright, lemon-lime<br />
acidity that livens up the palate. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.1% Price: $36<br />
NEW YORK<br />
90<br />
Paumanok 2010 Grand Vintage Chardonnay<br />
(North Fork of Long Island). Created<br />
only in exceptional years like 2010, this is a beautiful<br />
example of New York Chardonnay. Elegant on the nose<br />
and palate, with penetrating notes of Meyer lemons,<br />
honey and waxy white flowers, this is an opulent, fullbodied<br />
wine that’s judiciously oaked and concentrated<br />
through the finish. Drinks gorgeously now, but could<br />
easily hold 3-5 years. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13.9% Price: $36<br />
89<br />
Bedell 2010 Chardonnay (North Fork of<br />
Long Island). Beautifully pristine on the nose<br />
and palate, with concentrated notes of fresh lemon<br />
and apple, with hints of waxy white flower and honeycomb.<br />
There’s significant weight and body on the palate,<br />
amplified by notes of sweet cream, smoke and an umami-rich<br />
salinity that lingers on the finish. Fermented entirely<br />
with ambient yeasts. Drink now. —A.I.<br />
abv: 13% Price: $25<br />
89<br />
Paumanok 2011 Festival Chardonnay<br />
(North Fork of Long Island). Aromatic<br />
and refreshing, with scents of white blossoms,<br />
stonefruits and a hint of beeswax, this is fermented en-<br />
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