BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

ance being Grenache), which no doubt accounts for its
dark flavor profile. This is a full-bodied, lushly textured,
expansive wine, with a finish that seems to go on forever.
Approachable now, it should age well for 10–12 years
at least. Kysela Père et Fils. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 15.5% Price: $121
92
Domaine de la Mordorée 2009 La Reine
des Bois (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). As usual
at this young age, the new oak used for aging this cuvée
stands out a bit, giving the plummy fruit aromas a cedary,
menthol-tinged veneer. But on the palate the wine
shines, from its expansive, creamy mouthfeel to the captivating
flavors of brandied cherries and powdered cinnamon.
Drink now–2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 15% Price: $141
91
Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Vieux Terron
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied, softly
tannic and immediately appealing, this offering from
Alain Jaume’s négociant business is attractively priced.
It’s not the biggest or most complex Châteauneuf-du-
Pape, but the ripe black-cherry and chocolate flavors
and finely dusty texture are undeniably satisfying. Drink
now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 15% Price: $45
88
Andrieux & Fils 2009 Cuvée Jean (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).
Full bodied yet very supple,
this borders on being fat but does offer attractive
cranberry and herb aromas and immediate drinkability.
Cranberry, cherry and spice notes mark the palate,
lingering briefly on the finish. Drink now. Vinum Distribution
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 15% Price: $39
88
Domaine de Châteaumar 2009 Secret de
Nos Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This
is a round, silky Châteauneuf-du-Pape that’s an appealing,
early-drinking rendering. Cherry and leather notes
aren’t particularly complex beyond a certain horsiness,
but the wine fills the mouth and the flavors do linger.
Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $37
CROZES-HERMITAGE
91
Domaine du Colombier 2009 Cuvée Gaby
(Crozes-Hermitage). Atypically round for a
Crozes-Hermitage—a result of the vintage—but immediately
attractive, with ample weight backing up the
smoky, bacony notes and plummy fruit. Finishes long
and richly textured, with hints of oak. Drink now–2020.
Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 12.5% Price: $42
90
Fayolle Fils & Fille 2009 Clos les Cornirets
(Crozes-Hermitage). Élevage in onethird
new oak has imparted toast, vanilla and cedar
aromas and given the texture of this wine a plush edge,
but the quality of the underlying fruit and the length of
the finish are undeniable. The primary blackberry fruit
should develop hints of coffee and black olive in short
order; drink 2013–2019. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $42
89
Domaine Les Hauts de Mercurol 2009
Crozes-Hermitage. Medium bodied and
firmly structured, this doesn’t show the generosity of the
2009 vintage as much as some other Nothern Rhônes.
Instead, it’s a traditionally built wine with classic notes
of smoke, herbs and black olives, and even some ashlike
notes on the finish. Drink 2013–2018. Serge Doré
Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
89
M. Chapoutier 2009 Petite Ruche (Crozes-Hermitage).
An early-maturing Crozes-
Hermitage, with aromas of violets and hickory smoke
alongside charming blueberry and blackberry fruit.
There’s not much tannin in this medium-bodied wine,
so drink it over the next couple of years for its easy
charm. Terlato Wines International. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $27
87
Cave de Tain 2009 L’Esprit du Fief (Crozes-Hermitage).
Ripe black cherry fruit is underlain
by hints of game in this medium-bodied Crozes
from one of the world’s biggest producers of Syrah. It’s a
clean, crisp wine with a faintly dusty texture to its finish.
Drink now–2018. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
GIGONDAS
92
Domaine du Grand Montmirail 2009 Cuvée
Vieilles Vignes (Gigondas). This is a
top-notch effort—a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah
and 5% Mourvèdre. It starts off with intriguing floral
and herbal notes, then delivers deep black-cherry flavors
on the palate, tinged with savory nuances of roasted
meat and black olive. It’s full bodied and round, richly
but finely textured and very drinkable now yet with the
substance to age up to 10 years or more. Serge Doré
Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
91
Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Terrasses de
Montmirail (Gigondas). A full-bodied yet remarkably
fresh Gigondas, with floral aromas and a fruitdriven
style. Subtle shadings of licorice and chocolate
add dark overtones, while the tannins are finely textured
on the long finish. Drink now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $33
91
Domaine du Pradas 2009 Gigondas. Fullbodied
and lushly textured, this delicious Gigondas
is a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5%
Mourvèdre. It’s fragrant with hints of wildflowers and
black cherries, but adds enough savory hints of black
olive and coffee to avoid being a simple fruit bomb. A
bit warm, but impressive; for early drinking. Serge Doré
Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
90
Gabriel Meffre 2009 Sainte-Catherine
(Gigondas). Gigondas is Meffre’s home turf,
and this cuvée is impressive, boasting ample weight,
rich tannins and massive extraction. It’s dense and dark,
combining asphalt, coffee, chocolate and licorice with
black cherry preserves. Ultimately it leaves one wondering
if it isn’t trying too hard, but it seems worth putting
a few bottles away until 2015 and seeing how they turn
out. Gabriel Meffre America. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $27
88
Andrieux & Fils 2009 Gigondas. This is
a very drinkable Gigondas despite being very
much in the savory-spicy style. Leather, garrigue,
cinnamon and clove are the dominant notes, softened
by silky tannins and modest cherry fruit. Drink now–
2015. Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $26
88
Louis Bernard 2009 Gigondas. This attractively
priced Gigondas is a solid example, boasting
traditional notes of leather and spiced meat. It’s supple
and slightly warm, with modest cherry fruit coated
with a dusting of dry red earth. Clove and metallic notes
on the finish suggest early consumption is the prudent
option. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
CÔTES DU RHÔNE
91
Château de Beaucastel 2009 Coudoulet
de Beaucastel (Côtes du Rhône). For full
review see page 8.
abv: 14% Price: $36
90
Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand
Veneur Les Champauvins (Côtes du
Rhône). This is an exceptional Côtes du Rhône, loaded
with cherry-raspberry fruit and hints of wild thyme
and lavender. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture, with
supple tannins on the lingering finish. Drink now–2016.
Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 15% Price: $25
90
Domaine Santa Duc 2009 Les Vieilles Vignes
(Côtes du Rhône). Full bodied and
creamy in texture, this is a big, ripe wine, but it never
goes over the edge into raisins. Black olives, leather
and chocolate finish long, potent and dusty. Drink now–
2016. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $16
90
LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 LePlan Classic
(Côtes du Rhône). A supple, welcoming
Côtes du Rhône, this offering from Flemish former
race-car driver Dirk Vermeersch starts off spicy
and herbal but adds ample cherry fruit on the palate.
It’s harmonious and easy to drink, without any excessive
extraction or weight. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
90
Vignobles Boudinaud 2009 Côté Jardin
(Côtes du Rhône). This medium- to fullbodied
blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 15%
Mourvèdre is round in the mouth without being soft,
and delivers a complex swirl of cherry, olive and herb
flavors. It even picks up a bit of chocolate on the surprisingly
long finish. Drink now–2015. Robert Kacher
Selections. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
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