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BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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and mildly complex. Drink now through 2014. Domaine<br />

Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $30<br />

89<br />

La Universal 2007 Venus (Montsant). This<br />

opens with gritty aromas of mineral, char, mushroom,<br />

leather and berry fruits. It feels cutting and juicy,<br />

but it has the body to handle it. The flavors of berry and<br />

cherry are bright and tight, while chocolate and earthy<br />

notes reside in the background. Toasty, dark and tough<br />

on the finish, drink this Syrah-Cariginan blend now<br />

through 2014. Domaine Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $65<br />

88<br />

La Universal 2009 Dido (Montsant). Gritty<br />

aromas of olive, herbs and charred berry give<br />

this Montsant wine a Chilean-like bouquet. The palate<br />

is wide, blunt and tannic, with blackberry and stewed<br />

plum flavors. It mellows out on the finish, with earth<br />

notes. It’s solid and sturdy, but feels tough. A blend of<br />

Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Domaine<br />

Select <strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $30<br />

88<br />

La Universal 2006 Venus (Montsant).<br />

Tight aromas of cherry and cassis come with orange<br />

peel and licorice scents. It feels edgy and acidic<br />

on the palate, but there’s enough body and fruit to absorb<br />

the acids. Tastes like schisty licorice, black fruits<br />

and spice, with a choppy, tannic, medium-long finish.<br />

Drink this Syrah-Carignan blend now. Domaine Select<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Estates. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $65<br />

86<br />

Xabec 2008 Red (Montsant). This is big and<br />

bacony on the nose, with herbal berry aromas<br />

and notes of spice and more. It feels lifted and nervy,<br />

with vital, almost volatile acidity and resiny, oak-led flavors<br />

of vanilla and black fruit. This is minty, spicy and<br />

aggressive on the finish. Frontier <strong>Wine</strong> Imports. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $24<br />

NAVARRA<br />

92<br />

Finca Albret 2007 La Viña de Mi Madre<br />

Reserva (Navarra). Lush, composed and<br />

fresh on the bouquet, with blackberry and perfect<br />

prune aromas. This is mouthfilling and smooth, with a<br />

firm, flush tannic structure and flavors of coconut, lemon<br />

rind, herbal black fruit and red berry. It’s long and<br />

supple late, and it’s arguably one of the best Cabernet<br />

Sauvignons you’ll find from Spain and Navarra. European<br />

Heritage <strong>Wine</strong>s. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $50<br />

90<br />

Finca Albret 2008 Juan de Albret Crianza<br />

(Navarra). Gets rolling with a blitz of dark berry,<br />

cedar, bramble and graphite aromas. It feels punchy<br />

for being a dark-style red, with meaty black-fruit flavors.<br />

On the palate, it turns juicier and more rugged as the<br />

acidity steps up, ultimately finishing thick but catchy,<br />

with peppery spice. A blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet<br />

and Merlot. European Heritage <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $35<br />

90<br />

Finca Albret 2007 Reserva (Navarra). This<br />

reserva blend of Tempranillo, Merlot and Cab-<br />

ernet Sauvignon offers aromas of lead pencil and mossy<br />

berry. The lively palate deals coconut, spice, lemon peel<br />

and wild berry flavors. This is a powerful wine that will<br />

benefit from airing. European Heritage <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $40<br />

88<br />

Marco Real 2007 Crianza Tempranillo-<br />

Cabernet Sauvignon (Navarra). Earthy<br />

and leathery smelling, this has briary, almost cheesyberry<br />

and oak aromas. This feels full, and it evolves with<br />

airing. Flavors of herbal black fruit join notes of tobacco,<br />

peppery spice and mint that carry onto the finish.<br />

A blend of 60% Tempranillo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />

with the Cab standing out. Cabernet Corporation.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $15<br />

88<br />

Viña Zorzal 2010 Viñas Viejas Garnacha<br />

(Navarra). Jammy berry aromas come with a<br />

dense coating of milk chocolate. But in the mouth, it’s<br />

snappy and juicy, with enough body to handle the acids.<br />

It tastes fresh, pointed and zesty, with plum and berry<br />

flavors that finish full and grabby. A very good old-vine<br />

Garnacha for the price. Classical <strong>Wine</strong>s. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $14<br />

86<br />

Castillo de Monjardin 2007 Deyo Merlot<br />

(Navarra). This is stewy smelling, with<br />

tomato leaf and raisiny notes. It feels dense and mature,<br />

with mild acidity creating jammy raspberry and plum<br />

flavors along with a lot of barrel spice. The oak flavor is<br />

dominant on the finish. <strong>Wine</strong>bow. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13.5% Price: $18<br />

85<br />

Bodegas Artazu 2010 Artazuri Garnacha<br />

(Navarra). This is bulky on the nose, with<br />

meaty, rubbery aromas. It feels more snappy and acidic<br />

on the tongue, with zesty acids pushing tomato, red<br />

plum and herb flavors. Long and steady on the finish,<br />

with additional tomato-based tang. Folio Fine <strong>Wine</strong><br />

Partners. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $12<br />

PENEDÈS<br />

93<br />

Pardas 2007 Aspiru (Penedès). Dry,<br />

earthy and leathery on the nose, with finely<br />

etched aromas of raspberries, plums and other red<br />

berries. This feels fresh and pure, with balance, weight,<br />

tannic grip and perfect acidity. It’s bright, forward and<br />

juicy, with elevated flavors of plums, berries and peppery<br />

spices. A blend of 85% Cab Franc and 15% Cab<br />

Sauvignon. Vinea Imports. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $50<br />

92<br />

Torres 2007 Grans Muralles (Penedès).<br />

This five-grape blend is harmonious, with aromas<br />

of sweet spice, ripe berry, cherry, licorice and mineral.<br />

It’s racy, deep and powerful, with dark berry, black<br />

plum and oaky, spicy flavors. It’s long, elegant and potent<br />

on the finish. Drink through 2018. Dreyfus, Ashby<br />

& Co. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $109<br />

91<br />

Pardas 2007 Negre Franc (Penedès).<br />

Punchy and pure on the bouquet, this has<br />

nicely presented blackberry and cassis aromas that are<br />

offset by a whiff of dried cheese and leather. It feels<br />

snappy, fresh and firm, with toasty, mildly-spicy plum,<br />

berry and toasted flavors. Lengthy, juicy and healthy<br />

on the finish. Drink now through 2015. Vinea Imports.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $25<br />

89<br />

Ferré I Catasús 2007 CaMerlot (Penedès).<br />

Dense and somewhat roasted on the bouquet,<br />

with tarry, leathery aromas. This feels good but angular,<br />

with sheering acidity, firm tannins and solid flavors of<br />

red berry, plum, herb and pepper. It’s lengthy but a little<br />

hot and grabby on the finish. A blend of 50% Cabernet<br />

and 50% Merlot. M Imports, LLC. —M.S.<br />

abv: 13% Price: $15<br />

PRIORAT<br />

90<br />

Cellers Unió 2008 Señorio de Convey<br />

(Priorat). This is generous and ripe, with spicy<br />

black-fruit aromas. It feels full but shows elegance with<br />

its depth and layering. Flavors of blackberry, plum, tobacco<br />

and oak stick out on the palate. It’s long, sturdy,<br />

leathery and somewhat complex on the finish. Drink<br />

now through 2016. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.<br />

—M.S.<br />

abv: 14% Price: $16<br />

90<br />

Vall Llach 2008 Embruix (Priorat). This is<br />

nicely done given that 2008 was a subpar year<br />

throughout Spain. The bouquet deals full berry and<br />

cherry aromas with notes of exotic spices and perfume.<br />

It feels thick and creamy but polished, with deep blackberry<br />

and cassis flavors. Jammy almost to the point of<br />

raisiny, but with such deep fruit it works. Folio Fine<br />

<strong>Wine</strong> Partners. —M.S.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $25<br />

86<br />

Scala Dei 2008 Prior (Priorat). Bacon,<br />

rubber and berry fruit aromas comprise<br />

the bouquet. Feels crisp on the palate,<br />

with roasted berry flavors and herb and pepper<br />

accents. It feels warm on the finish, with herbal leanings<br />

and some roughness. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $27<br />

RIBERA DEL DUERO<br />

92<br />

Alidis 2005 VS (Ribera del Duero). Oaky<br />

and superconcentrated, with shoe polish and<br />

other dark aromas forming a cap on the bouquet. Airing<br />

reveals a rugged, fully oaked and tannic wine, with<br />

baked berry, baking spice, raisin, syrup and chocolate<br />

flavors all wrapped up in a chewy, chunky frame. Sweet,<br />

rich and saturated stuff. Drink now or hold through<br />

2017. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S.<br />

abv: 15% Price: $100<br />

90<br />

Legaris 2005 Reserva (Ribera del Duero).<br />

With aromas of warm earth, cedar, tobacco<br />

and meaty black fruit, this covers the basics of Ribera. It<br />

feels plump, round and maybe a bit flat, with rich, ripe<br />

blackberry, prune and spice flavors. It’s harmonious and<br />

full-bodied on the finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.<br />

abv: 14.5% Price: $36<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>Mag.com | 41

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