BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

SPIRITS
CELEBRATING NEW AMERICAN WHISKEYS
This month’s spirits category, New American
Whiskeys, was defined as any new Americanmade
whiskey released within the past couple of
years. And boy, was it exciting to see the submissions
roll in. Clearly, this has been an exceedingly creative
time for the whiskey industry.
For example, American-made single malt
whiskeys are on the rise, with the most notable
example being the supersoft St. George Single
Malt. Soon, we’ll have another: in March, the
Distilled Spirits Council of the United States
gathered three premier Scotch distillers—John
Campbell of Laphroaig, Andy Cant of Cardhu,
and Bill Lumsden of Glenmorangie—to distill
and barrel a historic American single malt
from Scottish barley at the George Washington
Distillery in Mount Vernon, Virginia.
In the spirit of Independence Day, it also
seems appropriate to highlight the independent
98
Angels Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA; Louisville Distilling Company,
Crestwood, KY). A beautiful, mouthwatering
newcomer to the whiskey scene. Named for the “angel’s
share,” the portion that evaporates from the barrel
during the aging process, this golden amber spirit is
finished in Port barrels, which explains those juicy redfruit
notes that slide into the long finish. Look for orange
peel, vanilla and roasted nut flavors, too.
abv: 43.3% Price: $46
96
Woodford Reserve Masters Collection:
Rare Rye Release New Cask Rye (USA;
Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Part of a 2-bottle
set that also includes Aged Cask Rye, the New Cask version
benefits from extra color and flavor soaked up from
the barrel, and results in a truly outstanding rye specimen.
Maple syrup color and heady caramel aroma with
a faint whiff of burnt orange peel and brewed tea. The
flavor profile veers toward the dry side, showing caramel
interwoven with cocoa, leather and espresso notes,
with just the right amount of spicy bite at the end.
abv: 46.2% Price: $100/2 375-ml bottles
95
Old Forester Birthday Bourbon (USA;
Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). This is a
complex, rich Bourbon, with notes of brown sugar and
toffee, Sherry, dried figs, and hazelnut, lightened with a
soft hint of fresh apples. It’s a little boozy on the nose, as
might be expected at nearly 100 proof, but stands up to
ice or branch water for mellow, flavorful sipping.
abv: 49% Price: $50
95
Smooth Ambler Old Scout Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA; Smooth Ambler Spirits,
Maxwelton, WV). This amber-hued, six-year-old
Bourbon has a bright, honeyed, slightly peachy scent.
On the palate, it has a sweet creaminess, very smooth
and light, finishing dry and lovely with just a bit of spicy
68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012
distillers who are leading the Alternative
Whiskey movement (or, “Alt Whiskey”). This
fast-growing group of passionate craft distillers
are experimenting with unusual techniques and
grains, resulting in some fascinating whiskeys,
from Corsair’s triple-smoked Bourbon to
Charbay’s beer-spiked hopped whiskeys.
They’re inspiring larger outfits to respond with
more innovation.
Darek Bell, owner of the Corsair Distillery
in Nashville, even recently published a howto
book called Alt Whiskeys, for DIY types
who want to experiment by making Cannabis
Moonshine or Chamomile Wheat Whiskey.
“Craft distilling is still an infant,” Bell says.
“But it is poised to become an ‘enfant terrible.’
” Don’t doubt it.
rye-like sparkle. A fine choice for Manhattans and other
Bourbon-based cocktails.
abv: 49.5% Price: $37
94
Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr., Single Barrel
Bourbon (USA; Sazerac Company, Frankfort,
KY). No shrinking violet here; this is a big, powerful
Bourbon with a finish that just won’t quit. The honey-colored
spirit has a sweet, heavy caramel aroma with
some deep, somber espresso notes. Look for rounded
burnt-orange flavor and lots of cinnamon and nutmeg
on the dry, elongated finish. Temper the alcohol sting
with ice water—it’s 100 proof, after all. History buffs
will love the old-school style of the bottle and label.
abv: 50% Price: $70
94
Michter’s US*1 Unblended American
Whiskey (USA; Michter’s Distillery, LLC,
Louisville, KY). For full review see page 11.
abv: 41.7% Price: $43
93
Corsair Nashville Bourbon (USA; Corsair
Artisan Distillery, Nashville, TN). From a
small distillery that is leading the Alt Whiskey movement
comes this crazy-good, complex whiskey made
from corn, smoked barley, rye and wheat. This spirit is
front-loaded with big, sweet caramel, but without missing
a beat it segues into dark chocolate, espresso, clove,
cigar tobacco and every dry flavor under the sun. Plop in
the biggest ice cube you can find and enjoy.
abv: 50% Price: $45
93
Clyde May’s Whiskey (USA; Spirits Acquisitions,
Dallas, TX). For full review see
page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 42.5% Price: $29
93
—Kara newman
Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon
(USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville,
KY). For a warm and comforting sipper on a chilly evening,
this is a fine way to go. This honey-hued Bourbon
has a big, powerful, sweet caramel aroma, and a rich
mix of buttery, oaky and toasty flavors. Consider it as a
dessert pairing.
abv: 42.5% Price: $50
92
Jefferson’s Straight Rye Whiskey (USA;
Castle Brands, New York, NY). Produced
in Canada but bottled in Louisville, this 100% rye whiskey
is aged 10 years. Deep gold color, vanilla and peach
aroma, soft and full-bodied, this rye has a pleasing citric
brightness, lingering peachy and caramel notes with a
smattering of cinnamon and clove. Would be great savored
with a chunk of ice, or mixed into a rye Manhattan.
abv: 47% Price: $40
92
High West Whiskey Son of Bourye (USA;
High West Distillery, Park City, UT). It’s no
exaggeration to say this well-balanced mix of bourbon
and rye provides the best of both worlds, combining
the sweetness of bourbon with the light spiciness of rye.
Fruitcake and dried fig on the finish add complexity.
abv: 46% Price: $40
91
Breaking & Entering Bourbon (USA; St.
George Spirits, Alameda, CA). The antithesis
of single-barrel Bourbon, this whiskey is made from
80 barrels of Kentucky Bourbon, individually selected
and then blended in California. The end result is bright
and pretty, a golden Bourbon with a light, fruity fragrance
and touches of vanilla and honeysuckle, packaged
in a tall wine bottle with an edgy label.
abv: 43% Price: $36
91
Woodford Reserve Masters Collection:
Rare Rye Release Aged Cask Rye (USA;
Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Part of a two-bottle
set that also includes New Cask Rye, the aged cask
yields a soft, light rye variation, with a golden color and
mild aroma. Expect creamy vanilla, a touch of lemon,
and a clean finish, braced by a bit of brisk alcohol at the
end. This is made for classic cocktails.
abv: 46.2% Price: $100/2 375-ml bottles
90
Bowman Brothers Virginia Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA; Sazerac Company,
Frankfort, KY). Though it needs a little coaxing, this
small-batch Bourbon is a fitting tribute to the four Bowman
brothers, Virginia militia officers in the Revolutionary
War. Give it some time and a splash of ice water, and
the aromas and flavors open up. Look for sweet notes of
almond, cocoa and caramel, plus the clove and nutmeg
notes that build on the finish. Best Buy.
abv: 45% Price: $30
90
Bulleit Rye Whiskey (USA; Diageo Americas,
Plainfield IL). This amber whiskey is
made with 95% rye, which puts it on the very high-rye
side of the spectrum, and gives it a spicy zip. In some
ways, this evokes an ultradry version of an orange liqueur,
with juicy orange notes dusted with black pepper,
clove, nutmeg and a faint hoppy note. Best Buy.
abv: 45% Price: $28