BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

89
Domaine Charles Thomas 2009 Côtes du
Rhône. A blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah
and 10% Mourvèdre, this is full bodied and richly
textured, redolent of wild thyme and lavender, black
cherries and a hint of cocoa. Drink this charmer over
the next couple of years. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy.
—J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $12
89
Domaine de Dionysos 2009 La Devèze
(Côtes du Rhône). The cherry, leather and
chocolate aromas are accompanied by a slightly citrusy
aroma in this blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10%
Carignan and 5% Cinsault. It’s creamy, warm and inviting
on the palate, with black cherry and plum fruit,
before turning chocolaty on the long finish. Drink now.
Serge Doré Selections. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $13
89
Ferraton Pere et Fils 2009 Samorëns
(Côtes du Rhône). It’s only medium bodied,
but this wine displays charming notes of wild herbs
that make it irresistible. The floral and herbal notes
wrap seamlessly around the core of ripe cherry fruit,
which picks up a touch of chocolaty richness on the finish.
Drink now–2014. Baron Francois Ltd. Best Buy.
—J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $14
88
Delas Frères 2009 Saint-Esprit (Côtes du
Rhône). Unlike most Côtes du Rhônes, this
one is based on Syrah, with only a small proportion of
Grenache used in the blend. The result is a slightly less
weighty, spicier wine than typical for the appellation,
but one that remains round on the palate, with cherries
and silky tannins lingering on the finish. Drink it
over the next few years. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
88
Domaine de la Mordorée 2010 La Dame
Rousse (Côtes du Rhône). Mordorée’s
Côtes du Rhône is a classic blend built around 40%
Grenache and 30% Syrah, with smaller amounts of the
other permitted varieties. The result combines scents of
leather and roasted meat with cherries and dark overtones
of cocoa and coffee. It’s a nicely balanced, fullbodied
wine, with just a touch of coarseness to its texture.
Drink now-2016. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $19
88
Les Domaines Auriol 2009 cdr (Côtes
du Rhône). This isn’t the most complex Côtes
du Rhône, but it does offer bold, fruit-driven flavors of
cherry and raspberry, medium body and tannins that
are creamy soft. Drink this 50-50 blend of Grenache
and Syrah over the next year or so. Testa Wines Of The
World. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $11
88
Famille Perrin 2009 Réserve (Côtes du
Rhône). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5% Price: $11
88
Vignobles La Coterie 2010 Côtes du
Rhône. Despite this wine’s evident ripeness,
it remains freshly floral and perfumed on the nose. On
52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012
the palate, it delivers ripe black-cherry fruit and hints of
chocolate and licorice, cushioned by a lush, velvety texture.
Drink it over the next year or two. Cordon Selections.
Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $13
87
Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Réserve Grand
Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). A simple but attractive
Côtes du Rhône, with impressively pure cherry-berry
fruit, medium body and a slightly chunky feel.
Drink it over the next couple of years. Kysela Père et
Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $15
87
Château de Ségriès 2010 Côtes du
Rhône. A rustic but mouthwatering red, with
leather, clove and dark fruit notes delivered via a medium-bodied,
slightly chunky mouthful. With its old
school style, it has the rough edges to handle stews and
braises. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $15
87
Clos de l’Hermitage 2009 Côtes du
Rhône. Full bodied and richly tannic, this
heavily extracted wine seems almost like too much of
a good thing. Leather and cedar aromas give way to flavors
of roasted meat, tapenade and asphalt and finish
slightly warm. Maybe some time in the cellar will help
dial this wine down. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $34
87
Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Confidence
Grenache-Syrah (Côtes du
Rhône). Domaine Fond Croze’s entry-level cuvée is a
bit coarsely textured, but otherwise offers ample spicedriven
flavors and a subtle layer of cherry fruit. Clove
and pepper notes linger on the finish. Drink now–2015.
Serge Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $15
86
Domaine Courtois 2010 La Source (Côtes
du Rhône). This blend of 80% Grenache and
20% Syrah doesn’t have the most effusive red-cherry
fruit, but instead shows an appealing earthy, savory side.
Pepper, clove and some dusty earth elements impart
complexity above its price point. Drink now. Fruit of
the Vines, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
86
Domaine de Givaudan 2009 Léa (Côtes
du Rhône). This wine is light in body for a
Côtes du Rhône, elegant and spicy, with silky tannins
and hints of cracked pepper on the finish. Enjoy this
blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah over the next
few years. Massanois Imports. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
86
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Cranilles
(Côtes du Rhône). This négociant operation
has greatly expanded its offerings in recent years,
and this blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10%
Mourvèdre is reasonably successful. Cherry and dried
herb notes are framed by dry cedar accents before picking
up olive and coffee nuances on the finish. Drink now
and over the next two years. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
—J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $15
86
Louis Bernard 2009 Côtes du Rhône.
A straightforward, slightly chunky Côtes du
Rhône, with modest cherry fruit tinged with leather,
chocolate and licorice. It’s medium to full in body, with
acids that stick out a bit on the palate, but which should
serve it well when paired with burgers or meatloaf.
Boisset Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
85
Oraison 2009 Côtes du Rhône. This blend
of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre
is plump and charming, filled with cherry fruit and
just a hint of spice. It’s clean and correct, a fine option
for everyday drinking. Cellar Door Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $11
85
Perrin & Fils 2010 Nature Red Wine
(Côtes du Rhône). A blend of Grenache and
Syrah, this is slightly minty upfront, followed by bright
cherry flavors. It’s on the light side for a Côtes du Rhône,
but fresh and silky in texture, with just a hint of chocolaty
richness on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
84
Louis Bernard 2009 Domaine Le Garrigon
(Côtes du Rhône). A bit lean and tannic,
with an herbal tang to the tart cherry and cranberry
fruit. This doesn’t show much of the warmth of the vintage
but remains a pleasant wine, best served alongside
fatty foods like burgers. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13
CÔTES DU RHÔNE
VILLAGES
91
Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Shyrus
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). If you haven’t
puzzled it out from the name, this is a Syrah-based cuvée.
Aged 14 months in second-use oak, it features dark,
smoky notes on the nose to balance the bright raspberry
aromas, then turns darker and meatier on the palate,
ending with a hint of coffee. The tannins are supple and
impart a rich texture. Drink now–2017. Serge Doré Selections.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $24
90
Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Rasteau
G-S-M (Côtes du Rhône Villages). After
12 months in new oak, this blend of 80% Grenache,
10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre deftly balances the resulting
toast, vanilla and baking spice elements with briary
raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s medium bodied, with
supple tannins and a long, fruit-driven finish. Drink
now–2016. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: 15% Price: $26
89
Domaine de Dionysos 2009 La Cigalette
Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre-Carignan
Cairanne (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Made in
a traditional style with no evident new oak, leathery,
meaty notes balance dusty earth and sour plums on the
nose, while the palate is full, round and richly textured.
Finishes with dark, savory notes of coffee and black olives.
Drink now–2017. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $17