BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

92
Salomon-Undhof 2011 Pfaffenberg Erste
Lage Riesling (Kremstal). This is a taut,
terroir-driven Riesling. It is textured with both minerality
and tense, racy fruitiness. With its perfumed background,
this is a wine for aging. Screwcap. Fruit of the
Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $35
92
Stadt Krems 2010 Grillenparz Erste Lage
Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). This is a powerful
Riesling that concentrates more on the weight,
richness and spice than on the fruit. It has a structured,
intense character that offers long-term aging. The
finish is full bodied and powerful. Winebow. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
91
Allram 2010 Heiligenstein Erste Lage Reserve
Riesling (Kamptal). An excellent wine
from the great Heiligenstein Vineyard. Its perfumed
character is full of rich pear and peach flavors, with the
cut of intense citrus. The tense mineral texture promises
good aging. Screwcap. Vias Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
91
Arndorfer 2008 Die Leidenschaft Riesling
(Niederösterreich). Beautifully perfumed,
this is now maturing. It has an elegance, lightness
of touch and a wonderful almond and spice character.
The fruit is softened and rounded, with the acidity
lending a vivid aftertaste. Indie Wineries. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $45
91
Brandl 2011 Kogelberg Erste Lage Reserve
Riesling (Kamptal). This is a very
closed, terroir-driven wine with a mineral character.
With its tight structure and flavors of green fruit and
spice, it is a wine for aging. Screwcap. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $34
91
Buchegger 2010 Moosburgerin Reserve
Riesling (Kremstal). This is an intense
expression of steely Riesling, with a complex structure
and excellent aging potential. It is full of citrus,
pear and crisp pineapple flavors that are laced with
concentrated acidity. Age for at least five years. Screwcap.
David Bowler Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $41
91
Hermann Moser 2011 Gebling Riesling
(Kremstal). Pure in character, this has a
taut line of perfumed white fruits, with a nervy, tight
character. It is young, needing several years of aging to
bring out its complex flavors. Boutique Wine Collection.
—R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $22
91
Hirsch 2010 Zöbinger Heiligenstein Erste
Lage Riesling (Niederösterreich). Soft,
ripe and perfumed, this has currant and pear flavors.
With its intense lemon tang and tense texture, it will
certainly age. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
91
Loimer 2011 Lenz Riesling (Kamptal).
This is a rich Riesling, with soft apple and
creamed-pear flavor as well as perfumed notes of white
flower and white currant. The wine has a dense texture,
giving both concentration and a mineral core. Screwcap.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
91
Salomon-Undhof 2011 Undhof Kögl Erste
Lage Riesling (Kremstal). This wine
balances ripeness with crispness. There is a spice note
as well as a smooth texture that will round out further as
the wine develops over the next four years.. Fruit of the
Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $28
91
Zull 2011 Innere Bergen Riesling (Niederösterreich).
A beautifully perfumed wine,
with aromas of white flowers and white fruits. It’s rich
and full of complex ripe fruits, with a smooth texture.
Intense acidity marks the finish. Screwcap. Magellan
Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $27
90
Brandl 2011 Heiligenstein Erste Lage Reserve
Riesling (Kamptal). This is a delicate
wine that blossoms with white fruit flavors and taut acidity.
It’s very tense, with fine depth of flavor and a mouthwatering
texture that will take several years to mature.
Screwcap. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $34
90
Hermann Moser 2011 Kellerterrassen
Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). An intense
pepper and spice-influenced wine from the Gebling
Vineyard above Krems. It is rich, weighty and intense,
with the spirited acidity lending a refreshing edge. For
aging over several years. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collection.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $45
90
Rabl 2011 Steinhaus Riesling (Kamptal).
With his emphasis on natural yeast fermentation,
Rudolf Rabl is able to bring out the naturally perfumed
fruitiness of Riesling. This has a feel of the terroir;
it’s very tangy, minerally and nervy. Screwcap. Verity
Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
89
Loimer 2011 Riesling (Kamptal). This is a
perfumed wine that’s concentrated and full of
white fruit, pineapple and kiwi. It has a cool, mineral
character lending both freshness and a rich backdrop.
It could well age for 2–3 years. Screwcap. Winebow.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
89
Markus Huber 2011 Terrassen Riesling
(Traisental). This is a perfumed wine, with
intense flavors of spring blossom, grapefruit and white
peach. It has a tight line of acidity that cuts through to
the finish. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17
89
Wieninger 2011 Vienna Hills Riesling (Vienna).
Impressively rich and food-friendly,
this has green apple and peach flavors along with intense
acidity. The mouthfeel has a pepper edge to contrast
with the fine crisp finish. Glass stopper. Winebow.
—R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $22
88
Eichinger 2011 Vom Berg Riesling
(Kamptal). With its perfumed fruit and bright
acidity, this dances across the palate. Flavors include
spice, peach, grapefruit and lemon zest, which all
meld into a light, refreshing whole. Screwcap. Weygandt-Metzler.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
88
Kirchmayr 1988 Solist Altenberg Riesling
(Weinviertel). Almost sweet in its old age, this
ethereal wine has crisp acidity to go with its almond
and mushroom flavors. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
—R.V.
abv: 11.5% Price: $95
87
Domäne Wachau 2011 Terrassen Riesling
Federspiel (Wachau). An immediately
delicious wine, perfumed with fruit blossoms and laden
with ripe citrus fruits and pears. With its cutting acidity,
it will age, but it is so delicious now. Screwcap. Vin
Divino. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
87
Forstreiter 2011 Donau Riesling Riesling
(Kremstal). A perfumed wine from the
Krems Vineyards, with flavors of white fruits, currants
and tangy kiwis. It is poised and elegant, with an exquisite
fresh aftertaste. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
87
Unger 2010 Stein Terrassen Riesling
(Kremstal). Ripe and opulent, this shows great
swathes of white fruit, pineapple and a shaft of acidity
cutting through the palate. It is approachable now.
Screwcap. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
87
Winzer Krems 2011 Kellermeister Privat
Kremsleiten Riesling (Kremstal). This
is a perfumed wine, with white fruit flavors and and
citrus zest acidity. It is still young, tense and tangy, needing
several months to balance out. Total Wine & More.
—R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $19
SAUVIGNON BLANC
93
Manfred Tement 2010 Grassnitzberg Erste
Lage Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark).
This has the typical character of Sauvignon
Blanc and its purity of fruit. But it is the minerality, the
sense of vineyard that sets it apart. This fruity, rich wine
has a creamy texture that’s worth aging for several years
more. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
93
Manfred Tement 2009 Zieregg Grosse
Lage Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark).
With its richness and complex wood and spice character,
this is an ageworthy wine. It has weight and concentration,
with a series of flavors that go deep into the
powerful interior. Tropical fruit notes balance with the
wine’s herbal edge. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
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