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sportFACHHANDEL Fashion 10_2016

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Gazzetta dello Sport hs already reported on<br />

the new trends of Athleisure ans Isko.<br />

From Milan and New York Isko, the<br />

world’s largest jeans fabric manufacturer<br />

and supplier has taken on a pioneer role. At<br />

the end of last year an offer was made on<br />

the online platform Arquas with which the<br />

sports and outdoor industry should work<br />

in the future. That means: Manufacturers,<br />

designers and retailers are supposed to<br />

meet on the platform, exchange new ideas<br />

and eventually strengthen the trend more.<br />

The first designs of possible fabrics for the<br />

areas outdoor, bike, running and yoga were<br />

already impressive. Isko already showed<br />

new combinations of jeans fabric and fleece,<br />

e.g. which allow a versatile and innovative<br />

implementation in diaphoretic sports disciplines,<br />

too, and are still chic nevertheless.<br />

It is Isko’s goal to overshoot with new jeans<br />

technologies innovatively and sportively.<br />

“That is our DNA”, Lucietti stresses. In an<br />

exclusive interview with sportFachhandel<br />

the Isko man also stresses that one doesn’t<br />

want to “cannibalise”, one especially doesn’t<br />

want to get into competition with fibre<br />

manufacturers and developers. One also<br />

doesn’t want to be competition to sports<br />

manufacturers. “We understand something<br />

about the jeans production and the fabric<br />

itself.” But one wants to start a new market,<br />

Lucietti semphasises, of which he believes<br />

it offers many possibilities and a lot of<br />

potential. Adidas, Nike, Puma etc, who will<br />

remain responsible for future jeans collections<br />

for various sports disciplines , were<br />

addressed. “We aren’t going to perform as<br />

an own brand and enter competition.” There<br />

are first reports of success: The newest<br />

brands, who already use Isko fabrics are<br />

Replay (with the very popular new sports<br />

collection HYPERSKIN), Gerry Weber, LIU<br />

JO (with the line Bottom Up Amazing Fit)<br />

and the popular jeans stretch brand J Brand.<br />

So Isko also invites manufacturers to the<br />

jeans revolution in sports. “Urban Tech” is<br />

what the outdoor collection made of jeans<br />

, which was presented on the Arquas platform,<br />

is called. But bike fans are also in the<br />

limelight of the new jeans initiative. Ideas<br />

and designs for boxing, yoga and running<br />

round off the offer. A boxing champion in<br />

the ring who engages in sparring dressed in<br />

jeans? Hard to imagine so far but at the last<br />

exhibition Rimini Wellness the time had<br />

come: The Italian world-class boxer Simona<br />

Galassi trusted the new Isko collection,<br />

which was presented at the active wear<br />

exhibition for sports and lifestyle in Rimini<br />

at the beginning of June. The new sportswear<br />

collections are produced and sewn<br />

from the new fabrics “ISKO BLUEJYMTM”<br />

and “ISKO FUTURE FACETM”. These<br />

new Denim technologies are patented and<br />

specially designed for the Athleisure area.<br />

And nevertheless the pieces are “technical<br />

and trendy”. That’s exactly Isko’s expertise<br />

and of course entitlement, Marco Lucietti<br />

emphasises. The design and development<br />

centre of Isko is not in the fashion capital<br />

Milan for nothing. “We mean it”,Lucietti<br />

says. The Arquas project for jeans and<br />

sports is designed as a project to last over<br />

a period of at least 15 years. “I believe good<br />

money can be made with that”, the Denim<br />

man say. Of course he is aiming at retail<br />

and the manufacturers in the sports and<br />

outdoor branch and that’s where he wants<br />

to continue the Jeans’ story of success.<br />

Text: Nicolas Kellner<br />

... and in terms of ecology<br />

But jeans fabric is also becoming more important<br />

in terms of ecological aspects and has planned<br />

something revolutionary: The Bangladesh<br />

Denim Expo (BDE), for example, has been taking<br />

place in Dhaka, Bangladesh since 2014. As an<br />

international sourcing platform for the entire<br />

Denim value chain it provides information on<br />

news and trends in the areas of fabrics, finishes,<br />

laundry and accessory. The non-profit exhibition,<br />

which is the second largest after China<br />

meanwhile, doesn’t only advertise the Denim<br />

branch in its own country. They additionally<br />

have the aim of improving the ecological such<br />

as social standards in the production facilities<br />

and encourage the international exchange of<br />

information. The number of exhibitors has almost<br />

doubled in the last year – from 25 in Mai 2015 to<br />

49 exhibitioners at the Expo in April this year. Up<br />

to 3000 visitors, about 800 more in the previous<br />

year came there. The international sourcing<br />

platform took place the fourth time in a row in<br />

the modern halls of the International Convention<br />

City Bashundhara in Dhaka/Bangladesch and was<br />

under the motto of “Denim Evolutions“.<br />

That was the reason for Denim Expert Ltd. (DEL)<br />

receiving support from the Federal Ministry<br />

of economic cooperation and development in<br />

Berlin, which supports sustainable projects in<br />

developing and newly industrialising countries,<br />

via the German develoPPP.de program. Such<br />

development partnerships with the private<br />

economy have the goal, among others, to create<br />

a developmental added value and thereby<br />

improve the living standards in developing and<br />

newly industrialising countries. The program is<br />

co-financed by the DEG. Mostafiz Uddin, manager<br />

of Denim Expert Ltd., explains:” In order to<br />

Jeans collections are<br />

already taking over the<br />

fitness sector.<br />

strengthen the Denim Business on a long term<br />

the social and ecological standards in the textile<br />

industry have to be iimproved. The program<br />

develoPPP.de financially and organisationally<br />

supports us in putting our sustainable ideas into<br />

action.” The developing partnership started in<br />

December 2015 and is set for two years. DEL<br />

has qualified itself through its high dedication<br />

to the reduction of water and energy use such<br />

as the use of chemicals. Because that’s where<br />

the Denim industry’s biggest problem lies: In<br />

order to create the correct used look of a pair<br />

of jeans many washings and chemicals are used<br />

in conventional textile colours. A responsible<br />

handling of natural resources such as gas, oil and<br />

water, the reduction of chemicals and the waste<br />

water treatment often don’t take place.<br />

The new jeans trend is naturally<br />

also supposed to be a pioneer<br />

in terms of ecology: during<br />

production and with<br />

21<br />

new treatment plants.<br />

<strong>sportFACHHANDEL</strong><br />

FASHION • <strong>10</strong>/<strong>2016</strong>

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