sportFACHHANDEL Fashion 10_2016
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Gazzetta dello Sport hs already reported on<br />
the new trends of Athleisure ans Isko.<br />
From Milan and New York Isko, the<br />
world’s largest jeans fabric manufacturer<br />
and supplier has taken on a pioneer role. At<br />
the end of last year an offer was made on<br />
the online platform Arquas with which the<br />
sports and outdoor industry should work<br />
in the future. That means: Manufacturers,<br />
designers and retailers are supposed to<br />
meet on the platform, exchange new ideas<br />
and eventually strengthen the trend more.<br />
The first designs of possible fabrics for the<br />
areas outdoor, bike, running and yoga were<br />
already impressive. Isko already showed<br />
new combinations of jeans fabric and fleece,<br />
e.g. which allow a versatile and innovative<br />
implementation in diaphoretic sports disciplines,<br />
too, and are still chic nevertheless.<br />
It is Isko’s goal to overshoot with new jeans<br />
technologies innovatively and sportively.<br />
“That is our DNA”, Lucietti stresses. In an<br />
exclusive interview with sportFachhandel<br />
the Isko man also stresses that one doesn’t<br />
want to “cannibalise”, one especially doesn’t<br />
want to get into competition with fibre<br />
manufacturers and developers. One also<br />
doesn’t want to be competition to sports<br />
manufacturers. “We understand something<br />
about the jeans production and the fabric<br />
itself.” But one wants to start a new market,<br />
Lucietti semphasises, of which he believes<br />
it offers many possibilities and a lot of<br />
potential. Adidas, Nike, Puma etc, who will<br />
remain responsible for future jeans collections<br />
for various sports disciplines , were<br />
addressed. “We aren’t going to perform as<br />
an own brand and enter competition.” There<br />
are first reports of success: The newest<br />
brands, who already use Isko fabrics are<br />
Replay (with the very popular new sports<br />
collection HYPERSKIN), Gerry Weber, LIU<br />
JO (with the line Bottom Up Amazing Fit)<br />
and the popular jeans stretch brand J Brand.<br />
So Isko also invites manufacturers to the<br />
jeans revolution in sports. “Urban Tech” is<br />
what the outdoor collection made of jeans<br />
, which was presented on the Arquas platform,<br />
is called. But bike fans are also in the<br />
limelight of the new jeans initiative. Ideas<br />
and designs for boxing, yoga and running<br />
round off the offer. A boxing champion in<br />
the ring who engages in sparring dressed in<br />
jeans? Hard to imagine so far but at the last<br />
exhibition Rimini Wellness the time had<br />
come: The Italian world-class boxer Simona<br />
Galassi trusted the new Isko collection,<br />
which was presented at the active wear<br />
exhibition for sports and lifestyle in Rimini<br />
at the beginning of June. The new sportswear<br />
collections are produced and sewn<br />
from the new fabrics “ISKO BLUEJYMTM”<br />
and “ISKO FUTURE FACETM”. These<br />
new Denim technologies are patented and<br />
specially designed for the Athleisure area.<br />
And nevertheless the pieces are “technical<br />
and trendy”. That’s exactly Isko’s expertise<br />
and of course entitlement, Marco Lucietti<br />
emphasises. The design and development<br />
centre of Isko is not in the fashion capital<br />
Milan for nothing. “We mean it”,Lucietti<br />
says. The Arquas project for jeans and<br />
sports is designed as a project to last over<br />
a period of at least 15 years. “I believe good<br />
money can be made with that”, the Denim<br />
man say. Of course he is aiming at retail<br />
and the manufacturers in the sports and<br />
outdoor branch and that’s where he wants<br />
to continue the Jeans’ story of success.<br />
Text: Nicolas Kellner<br />
... and in terms of ecology<br />
But jeans fabric is also becoming more important<br />
in terms of ecological aspects and has planned<br />
something revolutionary: The Bangladesh<br />
Denim Expo (BDE), for example, has been taking<br />
place in Dhaka, Bangladesh since 2014. As an<br />
international sourcing platform for the entire<br />
Denim value chain it provides information on<br />
news and trends in the areas of fabrics, finishes,<br />
laundry and accessory. The non-profit exhibition,<br />
which is the second largest after China<br />
meanwhile, doesn’t only advertise the Denim<br />
branch in its own country. They additionally<br />
have the aim of improving the ecological such<br />
as social standards in the production facilities<br />
and encourage the international exchange of<br />
information. The number of exhibitors has almost<br />
doubled in the last year – from 25 in Mai 2015 to<br />
49 exhibitioners at the Expo in April this year. Up<br />
to 3000 visitors, about 800 more in the previous<br />
year came there. The international sourcing<br />
platform took place the fourth time in a row in<br />
the modern halls of the International Convention<br />
City Bashundhara in Dhaka/Bangladesch and was<br />
under the motto of “Denim Evolutions“.<br />
That was the reason for Denim Expert Ltd. (DEL)<br />
receiving support from the Federal Ministry<br />
of economic cooperation and development in<br />
Berlin, which supports sustainable projects in<br />
developing and newly industrialising countries,<br />
via the German develoPPP.de program. Such<br />
development partnerships with the private<br />
economy have the goal, among others, to create<br />
a developmental added value and thereby<br />
improve the living standards in developing and<br />
newly industrialising countries. The program is<br />
co-financed by the DEG. Mostafiz Uddin, manager<br />
of Denim Expert Ltd., explains:” In order to<br />
Jeans collections are<br />
already taking over the<br />
fitness sector.<br />
strengthen the Denim Business on a long term<br />
the social and ecological standards in the textile<br />
industry have to be iimproved. The program<br />
develoPPP.de financially and organisationally<br />
supports us in putting our sustainable ideas into<br />
action.” The developing partnership started in<br />
December 2015 and is set for two years. DEL<br />
has qualified itself through its high dedication<br />
to the reduction of water and energy use such<br />
as the use of chemicals. Because that’s where<br />
the Denim industry’s biggest problem lies: In<br />
order to create the correct used look of a pair<br />
of jeans many washings and chemicals are used<br />
in conventional textile colours. A responsible<br />
handling of natural resources such as gas, oil and<br />
water, the reduction of chemicals and the waste<br />
water treatment often don’t take place.<br />
The new jeans trend is naturally<br />
also supposed to be a pioneer<br />
in terms of ecology: during<br />
production and with<br />
21<br />
new treatment plants.<br />
<strong>sportFACHHANDEL</strong><br />
FASHION • <strong>10</strong>/<strong>2016</strong>