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CHAPTER 4 . WHERE TO DINE<br />
been frozen), while the other combination was fine. Wolfe’s in<br />
Metairie was a casualty of Katrina, and we are sorry, but perhaps that<br />
means Chef will begin to shine here at last.<br />
1041 Dumaine St. & 504/593-9535. www.peristylerestaurant.com. Reservations<br />
recommended. Main courses $24–$28. DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–9:30pm.<br />
Rib Room SEAFOOD/STEAK One of the first restaurants in<br />
the Quarter to reopen post-Katrina, this is where <strong>New</strong> Orleanians<br />
come to eat beef. And who can fault their choice of surroundings?<br />
The solid and cozy Old English feel of this room is complete with<br />
natural-brick and open ovens at the back. But while the meat is<br />
good, it is not outstanding, and the acclaimed prime rib is just a bit<br />
tough and more than lacking in flavor. There are also filets, sirloins,<br />
brochettes, tournedos, and steak au poivre, plus some seafood<br />
dishes. Carnivores, landlubbers, and ichthyophobes will be happier<br />
here than at one of the city’s Creole restaurants, but it is not the<br />
must-do that its reputation would have you believe.<br />
In the Omni Royal <strong>Orleans</strong> hotel, 621 St. Louis St. & 504/529-7045. www.omni<br />
hotels.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $24–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC,<br />
V. Daily 6:30–10:30am, 11:30am–2pm, and 6–9pm.<br />
Stella! INTERNATIONAL We are now very fond of this<br />
charming Quarter restaurant, whose newly redone room glows with<br />
real and faux candlelight, making it instantly warm and appealing.<br />
The clever, arty food is heavy on design and construction, with<br />
some combinations more successful than others. The menu changes<br />
frequently, and it will always be interesting to see what Chef might<br />
be experimenting with, and a pleasure to participate in something<br />
that isn’t afraid to depart from the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> culinary norm. A<br />
recent foray produced the following: for appetizers, a foie gras and<br />
duck pâté BLT, a decadently stacked, heady combo; shark’s fin soup<br />
garnished with 24-carat gold leaves, a tricked-out version of an<br />
Asian staple. The almond- and herb-crusted rack of lamb paired<br />
with boneless lamb rib-eye is meltingly tender. There is always an<br />
interesting pastry chef at work, and the restaurant always has laudable<br />
homemade ice-cream treats. See later in this chapter for the<br />
owner’s excellent inexpensive cafe, Stanley.<br />
1032 Chartres St. (in the Hotel Provincial). & 504/587-0091. www.restaurant<br />
stella.com. Reservations recommended. No shorts or tank tops; business casual.<br />
Main courses $28–$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 5:30–10:30pm.<br />
MODERATE<br />
Irene’s Cuisine FRENCH/ITALIAN Irene’s is somewhat<br />
off the regular tourist dining path, and locals would probably prefer
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