New Orleans

UPTOWN/THE GARDEN DISTRICT 115
fresh, new, and prettily maintained. No innovations on the menu,
but the French country style pâté (with pork, duckling, and rabbit)
with a spicy sweet shallot and cherry compote is hearty, the duran
wheat is a strong flavor in the house-made pasta, and the filet
mignon is one of the most tender in the city, a lovely cut of meat. A
bleu cheese trio for dessert is one of the better options, though their
cakes and parfaits are certainly fine.
2800 Magazine St. & 504/872-9035. Main courses $11–$18 lunch, $21–$29 dinner.AE,
DC, DISC, MC,V. Fri–Sun 11am–3pm; Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm.
Upperline ECLECTIC/CREOLE In a small, charming
house in a largely residential area, the Upperline is more low-key than
high-profile places such as Emeril’s. In its own way, though, it’s every
bit as inventive. It’s a great place to try imaginative food at reasonable
(by fancy-restaurant standards) prices. Standout appetizers include
fried green tomatoes with shrimp rémoulade sauce (they invented this
dish, which is now featured just about everywhere in town), spicy
shrimp on jalapeño cornbread, duck confit, and fried sweetbreads.
For entrees, there’s moist roast duck with a tingly sauce (either plum
or port wine), cane river country shrimp, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb
shank. If you’re lucky, there will be a special menu such as the all-garlic
meal, in which even dessert contains garlic. For dessert, try warm
honey-pecan bread pudding or chocolate-hazelnut mousse. The
award-winning wine list focuses primarily on California selections.
1413 Upperline St. & 504/891-9822. www.upperline.com. Reservations suggested.
Main courses $20–$32. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun 5:30–9:30pm.
MODERATE
Dante’s Kitchen CONTEMPORARY LOUISIANA
Dante’s is too easily overlooked thanks to its left-of-center location
and relatively low profile, but the reality is that it’s just at the end of
the St. Charles streetcar line. Further, its lively take on local cuisine,
with a careful eye toward seasonal and local products, is worthy of
greater fame. The bright and cheerful colors of the interior of its old
house setting and the enthusiastic staff make it a pleasure from the
start. At dinner, look for items such as redfish “on the half shell,” the
trio of filet mignon topped with pork debris and a Stilton sauce, and
a housemade pâté plate that might include goose riellete with caper
berries. Brunch is a strong alternative, especially given their splendid
take on eggs Benedict, with tender rosemary crusted pork taking
the place of the traditional Canadian bacon, a hint of honey
adding sweetness to the hollandaise sauce, and a caramelized biscuit
supporting it all.